ROUTER TABLE

A router table is a serious shop upgrade from a handheld router! It will speed up your workflow and it offers a much safer way to
perform many operations. The router table allows the user to bring their workpiece to the tool instead of trying to find complicated
ways to clamp a piece of wood to their workbench. A sturdy fence adds repeatability and accuracy while the robust table and lift
add rigidity while cutting. The Katz-Moses router table has both over and under dust collection, tool holders, stop blocks, a two
way adjustable fence, and a storage cabinet with a safety paddle on/off switch. I can’t wait to see what this inspires your to create!
Please share photos of your projects on Instagram and tag us @jkatzmoses. Thank you so much and as always: stay safe in the
shop.

CLICK HERE FOR ROUTER TABLE BUILD VIDEO

Check out our great plans and tools at WWW.KMTOOLS.COM

Router Table Copyright 2021, Katz-Moses Tools Inc. 1

 MATERIALS/SUPPLIES
ITEM QTY LINK
5'X5' BALTIC BIRCH 3/4" 2 -
5'X5' BALTIC BIRCH 1/2" 1 -
4" X 32" PIECE OF MDF 1 -
FENCE THREADED INSERTS 1 https://amzn.to/3lnQZlh
FENCE AND CASTER 1 https://amzn.to/3mCGABv
SCREWS TO ATTATCH SHELF 6 https://amzn.to/3aicyxg
3" CASTERS 4 https://amzn.to/2QqW2T1
FULL OVERLAY FRAMELESS 4 -
24" T TRACK 4 LINK BELOW
ROUTER LIFT 1 https://amzn.to/2OiyeOx
ROUTER 1 https://amzn.to/2pvSHqM
THREADED KNOB KIT W/ BOLTS 1 https://lddy.no/11ttr
PADDLE SWITCH 1 https://amzn.to/2qc8Odu
FENCE DUST PORT 1 https://amzn.to/354yirM
ROUTER BOX DUST PORT 1 https://amzn.to/37eb8kD
DUST COLLECTION HOSE - https://amzn.to/2QntaLr
KATZ-MOSES STOP BLOCK - LINK BELOW
3D PRINTED TOOL HOLDER 1 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3037921

PARTS LIST
PART DESCRIPTION
A Tops
B Sides
C Bottom
D Top Stretchers
E Back
F Bottom Lip
G Door
H Fence Bottom
I Fence Backs
J Router Box Bottom
K Router Box Front/Back
L Router Box Sides
M Shelf
N Fence Faces
QTY DIMENSIONS
2 24" x 36"
2 18" x 26 3/4"
1 18" x 30"
2 2 1/2" x 28 1/2"
1 27 1/2" x 30"
1 2" x 28 1/2"
1 27 3/8" x 30"
1 6" x 29 5/8"
3 3 1/4" x 29 5/8"
1 10 3/4" x 12 7/8"
2 10 1/2" x 12 7/8"
2 9 3/4" x 10 1/2"
1 9" x 28 9/16"
2 4" x 14 5/8"
MATERIAL
3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood
3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood
3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood
3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood
3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood
3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood
3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood
3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood
3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood
1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood
1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood
1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood
1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood
1/2" MDF

LINK FOR T TRACK

LINK FOR STOP BLOCK

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 CUT LAYOUT

- We recommend cutting the stretchers,

doors and bottom lip after constucting
the cabinet carcass and taking mea-
surements as plywood is usually never
exactly 3/4”.

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 THE BUILD
STEP 1: Breakdown wood for carcass of cabinet,
fence and top.

STEP 2: Glue up wood for fence Backs (I) and

Tops (A).

STEP 3: Construct the cabinet carcass as glue

dries on fence and top.
- Start by attaching the sides (B) of the cabinet
to the bottom (C) with glue and brad nails or
pocket hole screws

- Attach back (E) of cabinet with glue and brad

nails

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- Take measurements needed for top stretchers
(D) and bottom lip (F) of cabinet and attach those
with glue and pocket hole screws

These pocket holes will be on the backside

STEP 4: Attach casters to the bottom of the cabinet

STEP 5: Route the pockets needed in your top

(A) to fit the router lift. Use the paper template
provided to make your own template to use
with the router and a template bit.
- Position your template so it’s centered on the
top.

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- Drill a hole in the center opening to rough out
with a jigsaw getting as close to the template
as possible without hitting it.
- Next use your router with a template bit and
the template to clean up the opening

- Remove the inner template piece and set

your router depth so it’s just barely deeper
than the thickness of the router lift top plate.
You will adjust it flush with the leveling pins on
the router lift.

- Now route out the pocket for the router lift

top to sit in.

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STEP 6: Route out the channels for your T track
on the Router tabletop. Position them 3/4”
away from the router lift opening from edge to
edge.
- If ther are no holes in your t-track we prefer
to epoxy the T tracks in to the top so there are
no screws to interfere with hold downs but
feel free to use whatever method you prefer.
T-track from the Katz-Moses Tools Store at
kmtools.com comes with predrilled holes and
screws. 3/4”

1/2”

STEP 7: Cut a slot along the top of the fence (I)

using a dado stack at your table saw to accept
the T Track.

STEP 8: Square up the three pieces you glued

up for the fence (I) and cut the fence bottom
(H) and glue and countersink screw the two
together. Use a flush trim bit with a bottom
bearing to make a flat edge between the fence
back and bottom.

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STEP 9: Route out slots in the bottom of the
fence towards the rear to accept the hardware
to ride on the T tracks. This might require a 2 3 5
1
little sanding to clean it up. 4

1. 3/8”
2. 2”
3. 12 1/4”
4. 1 3/16”
5. 6 11/16”

STEP 10: Using the dado stack rough out the

opening for dust collection in the center of
1
3 your fence making sure not to far back. This
2 might require some clean up with a chisel.

1. 2”
2. 3 3/4”
3. 2”

STEP 11: Cut the MDF (N) for the replaceable

fence front.
- Route out the slots to adjust the width of the
opening on the fence. The first opening going
all the way through just wide enough for your
hardware to fit in. Next a wider pass going
deep enough so your hardware head is re- 5 1 2 4
cessed below the front surface of the fence. 3
- Line the outside edges of the MDF up with
the outside of the fence and mark center of the
slots onto the fence to show where to install 1. 2 1/2”
threaded inserts. 2. 4 1/8”
- Drill out holes needed to accept threaded 3. 1 3/4”
inserts and attach the MDF to the fence 4. 2”
5. 2 3/4”

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STEP 12: Attach the fence dust collection port to
the back of your fence with screws and using
some clear silicone around the edges to make
an airtight seal.

STEP 13: Attach the T track to the top of your

fence with epoxy or screws. T-track from the
Katz-Moses Tools Store at kmtools.com comes
with predrilled holes and screws.

STEP 14: Breakdown the ½” plywood needed to

make the router lift box and shelf and start
constructing the router lift box with glue pocket L
hole screws. K

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STEP 15: Make a notch in the top of the box large
enough so you can pass the plug of the router
through so you can remove the router if needed.

STEP 16: Cut a 2” hole in the bottom of the router

box for dust collection and attach the dust port
to the bottom with screws and silicone around
the edges.

STEP 17: Attach router box to the underside

of the router table top using pocket hole
screws and silicone.

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STEP 18: Attach the top to the cabinet by counter
sinking screws from the top stretchers into the
bottom of the router tabletop.

STEP 19: Take measurements of the cabinet front to

cut your doors (G). Leave an 1/8” gap under the top
so the doors don’t bind up when opening or clos-
ing and a 1/32” off each door’s width to allow for
an 1/16” gap between doors when closed. FYI - This
step is different than the build video. I wish I had
done double doors instead of a single.

STEP 20: Follow hinge instructions to attach doors to

the cabinet and add hardware of your choice to the
doors.

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STEP 21: Cut the hole in the back of the cabinet to al-
low for the dust collection hose from the the bottom
of the router box to pass through.

STEP 22: Attach shelf (M) to the underside of the

router box using counter sunk screws.

STEP 23: Add a round over to the back of the rout-

er tabletop between the two T tracks so the hose
doesn’t get snagged when positioning the fence.

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STEP 24: The final thing to do is attach your paddle
switch to your preferred side of the cabinet, cut the
whole to pass the cables through, attach the option-
al 3D printed tool holder and start enjoying your new
router table!

Check out more of our plans, tools and blogs at WWW.KMTOOLS.COM

Router Table Copyright 2021, Katz-Moses Tools Inc. 13