Rondack Lodge Heirloom Camper

Rondack Lodge
Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

www.campingclassics.com
This design is Copyright 2008, Steve Frederick.
You build and use this trailer at your own risk.

Thanks Hector! Your test build was a large part of this project.
Rondack Lodge
A/C
Slides in/
out
I’m showing the A/C unit location as a possibility. I

did not build the prototype with A/C.

Rondack Lodge
5'9"

Rondack Lodge

Rondack Lodge
A study to see how the design would work with multiple

sheets of plywood.
Since the walls are so big, you will need to splice the
plywood. A router and patterns were used to cut the sections
of the design. If you choose to cover the trailer in aluminum
or paint, butt joints can be used.
Check out the ShopManual for details on splicing plywood.

Rondack Lodge
11'-11"
36"
54"
C/L10'-3"
6" 6"
36"
42"
Recessed
floor is 62"
77-½” 58" framed 28"
by 54" by
10" deep.
68-½”
Tongue and main rails are 2" by 3"

tube, 1/8" thick
Perimeter and cross members

are 2" by 2" by 1/8" Angle.
This view shows the relationship of the floor, wheels and the interior
features, to the frame. The Floor overhangs the frame 6" on each end. Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick
Lay out the cross members to support the framing in the floor. www.campingclassics.com
Rondack Lodge
53.3/4"
I had the dropped floor box fabricated

in 1/16" black steel sheet.
A good metal shop can take this
Bottom is closed 37-¾” drawing and do the same.
1" flanges around top If you have good welding skills, go for
it!
10.0"

Rondack Lodge
¾” foam
1" by 2" or 3" framing
Steel Dropped Floor 19-¼” 28" 30-¾”
12'-11"
36"
3/8" Ply
¾” Foam Board
Add this section to support
a porta-pottie, if needed
¼” Ply
80"
Floor sandwich
Section
Cut List
This list is for shopping! Verify before
cutting!
Top-side, 3/8" ply;
2@ 40" by 96" 2@ 40" by 57" 11"
Road-side, ¼”" ply;
2@ 40" by 96" 2@ 40" by 57"
41" 6'-6"
Framing;
1" by 3" pine or poplar,
2@ 75" 2@ 39" 2@ 80"
2@36" 2@28"
4@36-¼” I added a bit of extra length to the floor, say 1" or so,
1" by 2" pine or poplar, to allow trimming the floor to the exact length and
4@75" 1@36" 1@35" bevel to match the profile.
1@27-7/8" 1@ 16-¾” See the sketch below. (Not to scale!)
¾” pink or blue board extruded foam
insulation, approx 96 sq-ft. 12'-11"
Three tubes of construction adhesive.
2" Drywall screws for clamps (re-use)
Rondack Lodge
I added these
blocks (1-by 3) to
be sure that I had
enough framing to
bevel the ends.
See the
ShopManual CD
1-Layout and glue the frame to the top-side. 2-Fill the voids with extruded foam insulation.
To build the floor frame, lay out the framing pieces on the
sections of plywood that will be the top-side of the floor.
Mark the positions and remove and apply glue, then screw (2"
Drywall) the framing through the floor ply, into the workbench. The
screws will act as clamps while the glue sets. I don’t use any other
fasteners in the frame. The ply will create a stress-skin that will hold
everything. If you feel better, add dowels, biscuits, or pocket screws!
While the glue sets, add insulation. Use construction adhesive
for this, as it works well with the foam. If your bench is flat, this
method will work any curve out of the ply!
REMOVE THE SCREWS!!!
Glue the road-side skin to the top of the foam/framing.
Clamp with screws, remove when the glue sets. I like to seal the
road side with epoxy and paint. This creates a nice looking, water-
proof bottom.
3-Add the road-side skin. Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Rondack Lodge
Flat
67.625"
67.625"
66.375"
66.375"
67.125"
67.25"
67.5"
67.5"
66.75"
66.125"
66.5"
66.25"
65.75"
67"
64.75"
65.25"
64.375
65"
63.75"
63.25"
63.75"
62.5"
61.75"
60.75"
61.25"
59.25"
58.125"
57.125"
60"
54.75"
56"
59"
53.375"
Door
52"
50.125"
corners/
49.25"
Vertical start line 4" radius
48.5"
46.75
44.5"
39.125"
42"
35.75"
31
1.6"
.75"
.25"
30" 25.5"
0"
The zero mark is 18" from

the base line. Draw a 12" Rad
connecting line from the 18" 57" 33" 12"
rad
zero mark to the 12"
radius arc, along the
vertical start line.
28"
Numbers given along y, or vertical axis.

Spacing along x axis is 3".
Lay out the points on your plywood, Drive small brads at
each point. Connect the points using a long flexible strip
and a pencil. If a point seems too far off, just skip it! The
key is to draw a smooth curve, dimensions aren’t really
critical at this stage.

Rondack Lodge
I like to start with a full-size profile pattern. I made mine by gluing

two layers of cheap ¼” ply together, overlapping the seams.
After transferring the X/Y points to the ply, T connected the dots to
form the curves. Use a thin stick as a batten to trace the profile.
Cheap plastic molding works well for this.
Cut the pattern out with a jigsaw, sand the edges smooth and fair,
then admire your work!
Mark out your windows, door, and any other details on the pattern.
This will help you to coordinate where things will go to refine your
plan.
There is more on patterns and assembling large sheets of ply in the

ShopManual
From here, build up your exterior panels. Cut them out using the
profile pattern. Set them aside and build the wall frames.

Rondack Lodge
This edge is about 3" wide. Use segments of 1 This framing member should be hardwood (1 by 2) to hold
by 4, cut at angles, to build up this curve. See the hinge screws.
This space should be the The mating piece on the door, should be hardwood also.
the ShopManual CD.
width of the bulkhead
thickness, for example, ¾”
1-by-3
4" Rad
typ.
24-½”
1-by-3 21-1/2
The front
window is the
15½” 14-½” same as the side
windows on
mine.
1-by 3
Add blocking here

to support the 77-½”
wheel opening and 35"
fenders, if used.
14-½”
36-½” 37"
36"
1-by-6
blocking
This space = thickness of the floor.

Window openings in the walls and Door are sized to suit
1 by 3 the windows you have. For curved windows, add corner
Overhang the ends, trim to the pattern, using a Add blocking (1 by 3) blocks.
bottom bearing router bit. to support the bed Basic framing is 1 by 2, except where noted.
rails See the ShopManual CD for details on constructing the
outer frame.

Rondack Lodge
Add blocking here
Here you can see that I cut segments of 1 by 4 to

construct the outer frame. Lay out the segments to This is what your frame should look like!
overlap the pattern edge by ¼” or so. You’ll trim that I added blocking for the fenders and the
off to the pattern later. bed areas.
Cut matching segments for the second frame side as
you do the first side.
Glue the segments together end to end, using biscuits
or some other reinforcement.
Ref cd or more detail pic

Rondack Lodge
See the ShopManual for details on the segmented Using a pattern, cut the roof exterior edge profile,
framing sequence shown here. then lay out the headliner ledge.
Once completed, glue the frame to the exterior wall

panels.
A finished frame side.

Rondack Lodge
Weight and clamps hold the framing while the Fill the framing in with ¾” foam board.
glue sets.
Laminate the interior skins, Trim the edges with a flush trim router bit.

Rondack Lodge
Build the door over the pattern, just like the walls. Make a door frame from plywood or lumber.
Insulate and skin. I use a hardwood frame on the .
hinge side. It will hold the screws well.
See the ShopManual for details on the sealing system

Rondack Lodge
Top beveled to
match headliner.
Fixed panel Storage Storage Fixed panel

This is just an idea! Decide for
yourself how you would like the
wall to look!
As you see in my journal, I opted

Fixed panel Fixed panel Fixed panel Fixed panel
to build two larger doors on the
cabin side. I’ll build doors on the
galley side behind the fixed
panels shown here.
Bed area
Overhead Cab Overhad Cab

Bed
Drawers
Below
Overhead Cab Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Rondack Lodge
I built a face frame from ¾” Maple I routed a rabbit in the rear of the panel openings.
A simple way to build a bulkhead and Galley cabinets is

illustrated here.
I build a frame, fill the panels in, and trim with a molding.
Rabbits, ready to fill

Rondack Lodge
I cut panels from ¼” ply Nailed them in the rabbits
I used the same method for all of the cabin panels,

as well as the galley cabinet doors.
The Rear Bulkhead in place

Rondack Lodge
When you build this bulkhead, bevel this

edge to match the section of headliner ledge
that it sits in. The best way to do this is to
set it in the wall, mark the bevel and cut it
with the circ-saw. (on the bench, of course!)
Overhead Shelf Overhead

Porta-
Pottie Cabinet or
Bed Overhead Shelves (Bed)
shelf.
Drawers
Below
Overhead Shelf Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Rondack Lodge
23"
78"
14
Dinette seat ends (2)
14
Bed support (center)
78" Again, lay this out to

suit your needs. I
ended up with two
drawers, and a small
14
Drawer Drawer door.
For the potty closet, I
just built a short
cabinet to hide it.
After we saw the
actual space, we
decided that a walled
in closet-type area
would make the
Shelf dinette seem
Overhead Shelf
crowded on that side!
Bed
Drawers
Below
Shelf Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Rondack Lodge
Angle screws steeply!

Use trim-head screws,
2-1/4" long.
Hold a screw over the
top of the wall/bulkhead
joint, to visualize the
angle.
Front Cabin
Galley
Here is how to screw the bulkheads into place. If

you are building a clear-finisher exterior, plan to
place the screws as shown here. A Kreg pocket
screw works very well also! Otherwise, you can just
screw in from the outside.

Rondack Lodge
Window rough opening

Section at
front of
sidewall. Check your actual
34"
measurements.
78" (width of
the floor)
The forward wall/bulkhead is just a 1-by-3

frame, assembled over a piece of interior
¼” ply.
I just glued the frame to the ply, then cut
out the opening (if you don’t need a
window, just skip this) required for the
window.

Rondack Lodge
After you have the major parts built, begin your Notice the dead man (No, not Rick!) that is
assembly. Enlist the help of a friend, since the holding the street-side wall up. Glue the wall in
panels are a bit large. place with construction adhesive only. Clamp it in
place while the glue sets. The Dead Man will hold
the wall plumb.
The assembly sequence is;
1, dry-fit the sides to the floor. While you have the
sides in place, trace the bottom of the wall onto the
floor. When you glue the parts together, the reference
line will tell you if you have the wall in the right place.
2, Glue a side wall in place, hold in place with clamps
and 2 dead men.
3, Assemble the rear bulkhead the the first wall.
4, Assemble the forward wall to the side wall. Hold in
place with screws into the first wall’s headliner ledge.
Support it while you get the second side wall!
5, Apply glue to the second side wall (in the grooves)
Assemble the rear bulkhead to the first wall. Clamp in place with pipe clamps, c-clamps, whatever
you need.
Rondack Lodge
After fastening the forward wall to the side wall, I used some pipe-clamps to hold the sides in place
support it with a prop until the second side is glued against the floor. (Seen in the rear)
in place.
Next, we’ll build the interior details. I built the bed,

dinette and the shelves while the roof was open.
After the interior is assembled and finished, we’ll
install the headliner and roof.
Through the rear bulkhead, into the cabin.

Rondack Lodge
Glue and screw all cleats and blocking to the walls

from inside. Choose screws carefully, so that you
don’t go through the exterior!!
This sequence shows the construction of the bed

base and the dinette seat bases. I don’t give
measurements, since your idea may be different,
and the real measurements could be off. You’ll get
the basic idea from these shots.
All of these panels are built in the same way as
the rear bulkhead was. The dark wood is an
applied trim (Mahogany)

Rondack Lodge
Porta-Potty Storage The front is hinged the the top.
A cabinet for toiletries.

The top stows against the wall for potty use.
Rondack Lodge
I added a shelf over the foot/head of the bed. ..And the vertical members. Note the bevel at
the top, matching the headliner angle.
I used biscuits to support the rear of the shelf. I made a slot in the ends so that I could slide the
shelf over the biscuits at each end.

Rondack Lodge
Biscuit slots to the rear... ..On the sides..
Glue on the biscuits.. Slide in place.

Rondack Lodge
I added a shelf at the top of the forward wall where the headliner meets the wall.
nailed the shelf to the top of the wall.
I built the shelf similar to a hollow core door.
I added a railing and face trim to dress it up.
¼” ply
¾” blocking Headliner
¼” ply
Forward wall

Rondack Lodge
We opted for a smaller dinette, in the front. It converts to a single bed.
Hector, my test-builder, went for a larger table in the rear of the cabin, converting to a
queen-bed.
Rondack Lodge
The top of the ply shown here is at the top One section fastened to an inner bed
of the bed base framing. partition/rear of well.
3/8" wacky wood makes the curve well. Ready for epoxy/glass.
To build the wheel wells, make copies of the openings in the walls in 4 sections of ¾’ ply. These
copies will be build into the bed framing as you construct the bed’s base.

Rondack Lodge
Here, I have filled the seams in the wheel wells

and covered in ‘glass. I finished up with a couple of
coats of truck bed coating.

Rondack Lodge
If you don’t want to bother with a curved wheel well, or can’t find
whacky wood, just build a box. Seal it just like the curved version.

Rondack Lodge
To build the headliner, you will need to glue three sections

of 1/8" ply together.
Cut the sections to width ( measured from the inside of the
top of the wall ledge).
Measure the length of panel you will need. I use 3" wide
pieces of scrap 1/8" ply, and lay them on the ledge. Add
the lengths and that’s the cut. A dress maker’s tape would
be easier.
For my prototype, I used two full width sections and most
of a third. I don’t include measurements since you may
build a bit different than I did.
Add a small strip of scrap to glue the sections together.

Place waxed paper under the joint to prevent gluing the
headliner to your workbench! Clamp the seam with weights.
While you have it flat, finish your headliner as you like. Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick
Rondack Lodge
For the roof framing, build up some blanks from two layers of 1-by,
with a layer of ¼” ply in between. Use scrap ply if you have some.
I build up wide blanks, then rip the roof framing from it.
Make enough to lay out the framing spaced at 12" between them.
Make some for the hatch while you’re at it.
I have used good, straight pine or poplar for the framing.
For the rear roof member and top hatch member, use a piece of
maple or oak for the hinge screws to hold in.
Rip to width (measured from the headliner top, to the top edge of
the exterior panel) About 1-5/8".
Cut each to length as you install them.
Verify all of my measurements on your project before cutting!

Rondack Lodge
This is a specially cut

piece
You will need to make a special framing member for the area
in the forward curve. The space goes from 1-5/8" to 1" in this
curve. Place the blank in the correct spot, mark bevel on the
ends and cut to shape with a hand plane, sander, whatever
you have!.
Fill in the space between trusses with sections cut from
the wall framing. See the BuildersManual for details.
Glue these in place as you set the framing.
Glue each “truss” in place. A bead of construction adhesive is

placed under the “trusses”. A screw, placed in a pilot hole,
secures each end.

Rondack Lodge
After the framing is done, wire the ceiling for lights.

Add insulation as needed.
For areas where the insulation board won’t bend, cut
kerfs, about 1" apart and about ½” deep, in the back of
the offending section.
I screw scraps of ply over the edges of the sections to
“clamp” them while the glue dries.
Sand any high spots flush to the framing, so that the
skin will lay flat.
I insulated the roof with two layers of foam

board.
Glue it in place with a construction glue that
is compatible with the foam.
¼” Gap for the hinge!
Once you have the roof framed, add any

wiring you need. I glued plywood backers in
place for the ceiling light fixtures.
Run the wiring in the center of the trusses. It
helps to take a picture of your wiring before Expanding foam insulation fills any gaps.
you seal it up. Also, check for shorts too!

Rondack Lodge
I start at the front. Skin right over any openings

(Make sure they're open from the headliner side!)
Apply a generous amount of construction adhesive
over the foam and framing. Here, I’m using cargo
straps to hold the skin in place. Nail or screw the
edged to the exterior wall. Watch out for rogue
nails aiming for the outer skin!

Rondack Lodge
I secured the top end of the strap to a roof truss. The first layer is on, here goes the second!
Scrap ply is a good backer for screws (clamps) If you need a bit more..add a plank. Angle iron
below.
Rondack Lodge
Once you get the top layer of ply on, trim the excess off
with a bottom bearing flush trim bit in the router.
I sand the top flush to the sides, then round over the
edge with a ½” radius bit in the router.
Rounding over the edge helps the ‘glass to lay properly

around the edge.
If you are topping the trailer in Aluminum, you would
place the aluminum instead of the second ply layer.
‘Glassing is covered in greater detail, in the
ShopManual.
Spring clamps on the overhang.
Trim off the overhang , round the edge. Finish in ‘glass, or cover in aluminum.

Rondack Lodge
Roof
Plan the
counter
height to
suit.
Home Centers
Lay out your
have cabinet doors
30" cabinets to suit
that you can buy
your style
ready-made
Build a face frame. Dividers are ¼” ply,

glued to ¾” blocks.
Since tastes and camping styles vary, I’ll give an overview of

how I build a galley. However you design your galley, the
methods used here can be adapted to suit.
For more detailed construction notes, see the ShopManual CD.
I build doors. These are ¼” Birdseye Maple

ply in ¾” Cherry frames. You could buy
doors from the home center, just build the
cabinet face accordingly.

Rondack Lodge
Skin the inside walls with nice ply, see the Make a profile pattern for use later as you build you
ShopManual for more detail. cabinets.
I start bu laying out the counter. Place it at a

comfortable height. Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick
Rondack Lodge
Partitions, cut by tracing the profile pattern. I use ¾” square blocking to secure the sections, simple,
light.
¾” face framing, secured with blocking. The top got Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick
covered with left-over 1/8" ply. www.campingclassics.com
Rondack Lodge
Intermediate partitions, ¼” ply and blocking. The counter center support, ½” ply and blocking.
Note the slot for a biscuit. This holed the vertical
stiles. You could eliminate this element with out any
trouble.
Face frames glued in place.

Rondack Lodge
Here are some shots of how I finished our Rondack.

You can design anything you like, or copy this! Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick
Rondack Lodge
You’re headed here..

Rondack Lodge
While you have

the sides on the 1-1/2" Radius.
workbench, cut (Use an old CD.)
this section out. This cut should be ¼” from the
This will be the position of the last roof truss.
side of your hatch.
Cut the bottom

of the hatch
sides to the top
of the floor.
2"
Lay out the cut on the good side of your wall. Be
careful to lay out a LEFT and RIGHT side!
I use a “Sharpie” to mark the cut.
Use a new blade in a saber-saw, and TAKE YOUR

TIME!!

Rondack Lodge
2
3 1
1= ½” ply Gussett
2= ¾” ply spacer The hatch edge is

assembled by gluing and
3= The hatch outer screwing a stack of parts
side together.
4= Exterior wall. 6
4 5
5= 1/8” ply spacer.
6= ½” inner galley.
The Galley wall has plywood

and a spacer added to
provide the lower portion of
the sealing channel.

Rondack Lodge
The ¼” spacer is in place. Here is the Galley Save the off-cut for a pattern for the Hatch egde
Wall piece spacer.
Trim the ½” ply Galley wall with a 1/$’ router bit The inner wall glued, to the left. The other side is
to get the lower seal surface. in view here.

Rondack Lodge
This edge is the

Hatch outer
2"
curve.
4" to 6"
2"
The lower seal assembled. Make a pattern for the Hatch Inner Gusset
Use a flexible batten to make the inner curve.
The outer piece (with glue) and spacer cut out of Cut the Gusset ½” ply. This is a “by eye” sort of
¾” ply, from the pattern (under the spacer) made detail, coordinate with the galley cabinets.
when trimming the Galley Wall. Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick
Rondack Lodge
Place the hatch sides in place. Use scrap wood shims and clamps for
this.
Carefully cut roof framing to fit.
Secure the framing to the sides with glue and screws.
Brace the hatch against movement while you move it to the

workbench to skin the inside.
Clamps and shims hold the sides in place.
Place a ¼” spacer
between the top hatch
frame member ant the
last truss in the main
roof! This will leave a
space for the hinge.
Leave a ¼” spacer at the

bottom, for a seal later.
Scraps of 1/8" ply, screwed to the framing,

I used blocks at each joint, glue and a
keep the hatch from racking as it is moved to
carefully placed screw. (Drill pilot holes)
the workbench for skinning.

Rondack Lodge
Hector has a Kreg Jig, so he did pocket screws.
Note the gusset at the sides of the hatch. The hatch, braced for the move to the workbench.

Rondack Lodge
After the hatch is braced, bring it to the Assemble the liner, cut to size.
workbench.
Glue the headliner to the framing. Add blocking to support the hatch prop
A dry-run is a good idea, to figure out screws. I added small blocks along the
clamping! edges, for support.

Rondack Lodge
Run any wiring for tail-lights and Galley lights. Skin the first layer, glued and nailed in place.
Clamp the finish skin to the overhang left on
the first layer.
Improvise clamps as needed! If you are building without trim, round over the
edges, and ‘glass.

Rondack Lodge
During the hatch construction, you left a ¼” space Cut away the legs of the hinge that would hit
between the top of the hatch and the rear of the roof. the edges of the hatch where there is no gap
After trimming the top edge of the skin, it should look like (intentional). It should look something like this.
this. Sorry for the bad shot!
Cut away hinge legs here
The ends should overhang the edges of the wall

by ¼” to ½”. Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick
Rondack Lodge
I used a 3/8" by ¾” rubber seal from Austin A bit of seal in the ends of the hinge.
Hardware for the hatch edges and bottom.

Rondack Lodge
Since we camp in the Adirondacks, we don’t need A/C most

of the time. I bought a Pet-Cool unit because I could bring it
when needed, and it wouldn’t be in the way other times.
The unit is meant to sit outside on the ground. Hose
connections pipe the supply and return air through the cabin.
The unit has a thermostat in the air stream, so I wouldn’t
have to wire any controls. It also came with short hoses, a
filter and two mounting flanges. I rearranged the flanges to
serve as a filter rack, and used a new 2-½” vacuum cleaner
hose for ducting.
A shower floor drain works as a grill.
Here’s how to do it….
The “business end” Controls are mounted out of the
weather.
The PVC floor drain... A hole saw cut the opening.

Rondack Lodge
The drain fitting/Vent The Drain grate/Grill
The 2" PVC Pipe exits through the floor. Seal the Under the cabinet..
wood and foam with three or four coats of epoxy!
Rondack Lodge
“Duct” connection below the floor. Mounting flanges revised as a filter frame...
We transport the PetCool in the tow vehicle, you could mount it on

the tongue if you need it more often.
PetCool Here! When not in use, I cover the inlet/outlet connections with rubber
test caps from the plumbing department at the home center.
Can you see the AC in this mess?

Rondack Lodge
PVC Conduit
Wires to hatch
Wiring can be done in the roof. Do not make any splices I run my wires to the fuse box through a conduit in the corner
where they are buried.! of a cupboard.
Rough in to each light or device. Make connections behind If you want lights in the hatch, or tail lights on the hatch, run
the fixtures. them now.
On the next page is a basic schematic for trailer road lights and a simple 12-volt system.

Rondack Lodge
L Light RT Right Turn One or more lights can be wired

Fuse Block on one switch, up to the amp
F Fan LT Left Turn rating of the circuit.
O 12V Outlet RL Running light
L L L
M Marker
F
POS
Pos NEG
Battery
Ground All lights are grounded to
to the frame.
frame
M RT
RL
Ground Wh
Running lights White Br
Brown Left turn/stop
Y
Yellow RL
Right turn/stop G
Green
M LT


Rondack Lodge Heirloom Camper

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Rondack Lodge Heirloom Camper

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Rondack Lodge

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

You build and use this trailer at your own risk.

I’m showing the A/C unit location as a possibility. I

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

A study to see how the design would work with multiple

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Tongue and main rails are 2" by 3"

Perimeter and cross members

I had the dropped floor box fabricated

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

3-Add the road-side skin. Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

The zero mark is 18" from

Numbers given along y, or vertical axis.

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

I like to start with a full-size profile pattern. I made mine by gluing

There is more on patterns and assembling large sheets of ply in the

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Add blocking here

This space = thickness of the floor.

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Add blocking here

Here you can see that I cut segments of 1 by 4 to

Ref cd or more detail pic

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Once completed, glue the frame to the exterior wall

A finished frame side.

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

See the ShopManual for details on the sealing system

Fixed panel Storage Storage Fixed panel

As you see in my journal, I opted

Overhead Cab Overhad Cab

Overhead Cab Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

A simple way to build a bulkhead and Galley cabinets is

Rabbits, ready to fill

I cut panels from ¼” ply Nailed them in the rabbits

I used the same method for all of the cabin panels,

The Rear Bulkhead in place

When you build this bulkhead, bevel this

Overhead Shelf Overhead

Overhead Shelf Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

78" Again, lay this out to

Shelf Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Angle screws steeply!

Here is how to screw the bulkheads into place. If

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Window rough opening

The forward wall/bulkhead is just a 1-by-3

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Next, we’ll build the interior details. I built the bed,

Through the rear bulkhead, into the cabin.

Glue and screw all cleats and blocking to the walls

This sequence shows the construction of the bed

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Porta-Potty Storage The front is hinged the the top.

A cabinet for toiletries.

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

Biscuit slots to the rear... ..On the sides..

Glue on the biscuits.. Slide in place.

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick

We opted for a smaller dinette, in the front. It converts to a single bed.

Copyright 2008 Steve Frederick