Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Allison Rodman
Table of Contents
Copyright
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© ASCD 2019
ASCD Member Book
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Many ASCD members received this book as a member benefit upon its initial
release.
Learn more at www.ascd.org/memberbooks
Dedication
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Sit and Get… Very Little
The concept of andragogy (or adult learning) is not new. It dates to the
19th century, when Alexander Kapp, a German high school teacher,
developed the term to distinguish between learning that happens through
the teacher and learning that occurs through self-reflection and life
experience (1833). The term lay dormant for almost a century until
another German, Eugen Rosenstock-Huessy, recognized the need to
approach student and adult learning differently. He wrote,
True "education," for any age… is much more than mere
"schooling." Adult education, in particular, is oriented toward
solving community problems as a step toward a better future.
This requires a curriculum that prepares the student to see,
understand and deal with problems at hand. (Trans. 1992)
In this list, we see a case against what often passes for district- and
school-based professional learning initiatives, but also why it is essential
that we not give up on them. A teacher may engage in a PLN for an
extended period and have access to effective modeling, but most PLNs
don't offer coaching through varied approaches or sustained support
through the implementation phase. Onsite school or district professional
learning remains an integral component of teacher development and,
ultimately, student achievement. Scott Gaiber, program director for the
Philadelphia Academy of School Leaders, emphasizes the value of this
collaboration:
Teachers and school leaders who participate in strong
professional learning communities composed of shared learning
experiences and meaningful, authentic relationships between
members are inspired and more prepared to take on what can
sometimes feel like daunting challenges in our work. The feeling
of isolation that many educators feel is not only broken down,
but a powerful network of colleagues to rely on for
encouragement and resources results in increased commitment
and effectiveness.
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One of the first lessons teachers learn in their certification courses is how
to find (and use) their "teacher voice." Yet, once they are in the
classroom, too often this voice becomes muted, overshadowed by
education policies, programs, and processes constructed by individuals
who will never be called upon to implement them. Unfortunately, this is
also the case in professional learning. Teachers shuffle through a series of
mandated workshops and seat requirements to maintain their
certification, irrespective of their actual developmental needs and interests
as learners.
Part I explores how leaders can honor teacher voice by collaboratively
establishing a vision for growth—inviting learners to share in "the what"
and "the how" of learning early in the process. Chapter 1 delves into what
it means to build a culture primed for learning: identifying school goals
and growth opportunities and balancing and aligning these goals with
individual teacher needs and interests. In such a culture, teacher voice is
not just heard; it's a driving force for personalized professional learning.
Chapter 1
Establishing a Vision for Growth
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Locking Window Sash
An excellent lock for window sash is to use two small, but strong,
hinges one fastened on each side of the top sash close to the upper
edge of the lower sash. This allows one wing of each hinge to swing
freely which permits it to be swung over the upper edge of the lower
sash, locking both securely. In placing the hinges in this position,
they are out of sight and not in the way.
THE SHOTGUN
AND HOW TO USE IT
By Stillman Taylor
PART II—The Choke and Pattern of a Gun
H aving picked out a gun that “fits the man,” the matter of choke and
pattern should be considered. For trap shooting and for wild
fowling, the full-choke gun may be considered a necessity, since it
will throw the charge of shot within a relatively small circle; in other
words, make a denser pattern. Chokeboring is accomplished by
constricting the barrel at the muzzle from ¹⁄₂₅ to ¹⁄₅₀ in., the amount of
taper depending on the size of the bore and gauge. The narrowing of
the muzzle forces the charge of shot together and prevents the
pellets from scattering over a wide area. Guns are bored with varying
degrees of choke, from the full to the plain cylinder, and the
manufacturers compare them by recording the number of pellets
which any given choke will shoot in a 30-in. circle at 30 yd., or any
other range selected as the maximum distance. This gives the
pattern from which we find that the full choke produces 70 per cent,
the half choke 60 per cent, the quarter choke 50 per cent, and the
cylinder 30 per cent.
For trap shooting and wild fowling the expert considers it essential
that his 12-gauge should be capable of throwing not less than 300
pellets; hence he selects a full-choked gun with a pattern of 300 or
better. As a full-choked 16-gauge will pattern about 275, it may be
used for ducks with good success. For a general-purpose gun, a
pattern from 250 to 275 will prove quite satisfactory for ducks and
upland game, and this may be had by picking out a half-choked 12-
gauge, or selecting a full-choked 16-gauge. The 20-gauge gives a
pattern of about 245 shot, and thus scatters its charge over too large
a circle to prove effective on wild fowl, although it is very effective on
upland game, which is flushed not over 35 yd. from the shooter. A
gun patterning from 225 to 250 may be considered the ideal upland
gun, and this may be had by choosing a quarter-choked 12-gauge, a
half-choked 16-gauge, or a full-choked 20-gauge gun. These are
known as “open-choked” guns, are the most effective at short
ranges, up to 35 yd., and cannot be depended upon to kill clean
when used at longer ranges.
The first great mistake the novice is likely to make is the natural
one of supposing that he must take his gun to the field and learn how
to handle it by practicing at flying game. This is by no means the
best method, and there is scarcely a poorer way of becoming a wing
shot, because the gunner is intent upon bagging the game and
forgets to observe the many little points of gunnery, shooting high
and low, and making the hundred and one mistakes of judgment he
would not be guilty of when practicing at a stationary mark. Snap and
wing shooting is the last word in shotgun handling, requiring
quickness in throwing the gun, as well as a trained eye to calculate
the distance from and the speed of the flying target. To acquire
confidence in using the gun, begin by shooting at a fixed mark. A
good target may be made by obtaining a dozen, or two, sheets of
stout wrapping paper and painting a 4-in. circle in the center of each
sheet. Tack it up on a board fence or on a board hung on a tree,
measure off 60 ft., and try a shot. The shot will not spread very much
at this short range, and it will be an easy matter to determine the
result of your skill in holding a dead-on to the large mark. To avoid
flinching and other movements of the head and body, caused by the
recoil, begin your first practicing with a light powder-and-shot charge,
say, about 2 dr. of bulk measure, or its equivalent in smokeless, and
⁷⁄₈ oz. of No. 8 or 9 shot. There is no advantage in using a heavier
charge, and the recoil of the gun will appear much greater in
deliberate shooting at a target than is likely to be felt during the
excitement incidental to shooting in the field. A dozen shots at these
targets will enable the gunner to make a good score by deliberate
holding, and when this can be done without flinching, snap and wing
shooting may begin.
The Forward Hand may Grip the Fore End at Any Point, but a Well-Extended
Arm Gives a Better Control of the Gun
The object which the gunner should now strive for is to train the
eye, hand, and gun to work in unison, and to do this, bring the gun
quickly to the shoulder, point it to the mark, and press the trigger
without stopping the upward and even swing of the barrels. At the
first few trials some difficulty may be encountered with the pressing
of the trigger at the proper moment, but a little practice will soon tell
how to time the shots. Note the phrase, “press the trigger,” for the
trigger is not pulled by the forefinger alone, but rather pressed by
closing both hands, the forward hand on the fore end pushing and
closing, and the hand grasping the stock being drawn back and
squeezed at the same instant. This is easily done, but rather hard to
picture. After a few trials with an empty gun, the novice will see the
point, and also discover the fact that the recoil of the arm is much
lessened by this proper grip of the weapon.
Confine the first practice in snap-shooting to throwing the gun to
the shoulder, and when proficient in hitting the mark, try a snap shot
by swinging the gun from the side, right to left and also left to right.
Do not attempt to check the even swing of the gun, but rather let the
barrels swing past the mark, concentrating the mind upon pressing
the trigger the instant the line of aim covers the mark. Practice
swinging slowly, and after being able to hit the mark with the center
of the charge pretty regularly, increase the speed of the swing. In
doing this, it will be discovered that the speed of pressing the trigger
must also be increased to balance the speed of the moving barrel,
and very likely it will be found that the natural tendency is to press
the trigger a bit late. This is the common mistake which practically
every novice makes when in the field, although the error is likely to
pass unnoticed when after game.
SWING GUN ACROSS TARGET AS
INDICATED BT ARROWS AND
SHOOT IN PASSING
SHOOT AT BOTH
TARGETS ON EACH SWING
Train the Eye, Hand, and Gun to Work in Unison, by Bringing the Gun
Quickly to the Shoulder, Pointing It at the Mark, and Pulling the Trigger
without Stopping the Motion of the Barrels
When the gunner has reached the point where he can hit the
stationary target by swinging his gun both fast and slow, he has
acquired better control of the weapon than many old shooters, and
he is well prepared to take up snap-shooting at flying or moving
targets. The access to a gun club where clay birds may be shot at,
will prove of much value, but this is not absolutely necessary, since
tin cans, bits of brick, and bottles, thrown in the air at unknown
angles by a companion, will afford the needed variety. Better than
this is one of the inexpensive “hand traps” which project the
regulation clay targets by means of a powerful spring worked by a
trigger. One of the large powder manufacturers makes a trap of this
kind, and a very good trap can be had for $1.50. The standard clay
targets cost about $2.50 a barrel of 500. Practice of this sort may be
made a very interesting and highly instructive sport, providing the
targets are projected from different and unexpected angles, thus
simulating the many-angled flight of the live bird.
When small brass machine screws and threaded nuts to fit them
are needed in small devices, or for experimental work, and the
necessary taps and dies are not at hand, secure some old brass
globe holders and cut out the threaded hole for the nut. The
fastening-screw arrangement on these will answer every purpose
very well. Enough metal can be left on each one to fasten it on wood,
as shown at A, or they can be cut, as shown at B, if they are to be
soldered to metal.
Snapper-Shell Ash Tray
Fire Screen Made of Sheet Asbestos Inclosed in Thin Metal Frames Hinged
Together
Make four pieces of brass having the form and dimensions given
in Fig. 4. Two ¹⁄₈-in. holes are drilled in each of these pieces as
indicated. Slots are cut in the inner edges of the frames of such
dimensions as will accommodate these brass pieces. The location of
these slots is given in Fig. 1. Obtain eight pieces of ¹⁄₈-in. steel rod,
about 2 in. long. Place the ends of the brass pieces in the slots in the
inner frame and then put the rods through the holes in the ends of
them and solder the ends of the rods to the inside of the frames.
Make sure that there is no solder run in between the rod and piece of
brass, as this will prevent the hinge from operating freely. After the
hinges are in place, the frames are riveted together. Notches are cut
in the edges of the asbestos sheets at the location of the hinges to
allow the latter free movement. The sections of the screen may be
made very rigid by placing a number of small rivets around the inner
edges of the frame to hold it tightly against the asbestos. The
asbestos may be given a coat of bronze, or be otherwise decorated
for appearance.
Tossing a Card at a Mark Accurately
Tossing Cards Accurately so That They will Fall into a Receptacle Set at a
Distance
There is an interesting old game that can be played instead of
solitaire. It consists in trying to toss the greatest number of cards into
a small basket or an upturned stiff hat, set at a distance. If the cards
are held as shown at A, and tossed as at B, they may be thrown with
surprising accuracy.—Contributed by James M. Kane, Doylestown,
Pa.