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UNIT 5: APPAREL CONSTRUCTION

5.0 Intended Learning Outcomes

a. Construct the different types of clothing for lady’s.
b. Apply the industry standards safety and health practices in the construction
of Lady’s Clothing

5.1. Introduction

The garment construction and type – notably the number, positioning and type
of seams, linings and interlinings – as well as cut and style, play significant roles in the
draped appearance of the garment, with the presence, nature and bonding of
interlinings having a major effect. Fabric colours, depths of shade and patterns also
have significant effects, although these are essentially optical in nature and not due to
actual changes in the fabric drape per se. Seams mainly affect fabric stiffness (both
bending and shear) in their immediate vicinity, the magnitude of the effect depending
on their positioning within the garment.

This unit suppose to be will be the construction of one piece casual dress but
because of the crisis, the suggested project that is more convenient for the student to
work by hand sewing will be a Cooking Outfit. Simple project, yet, the student could
apply knowledge and skills in the construction processes of a simple project but
achievable and useful in school or at home.

5.2 Topics/Discussion

5.2.1 Preliminaries of Construction Process

Soak the fabric for 30 minutes. It

resistance to water and soap and
wash

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Hang the fabric in a cloth line but do not

squeeze

Iron the fabric if necessary.

Laying out Printed Fabrics

Printed fabrics with one direction need careful position to be sure taht the prints
match together. Patterns can only be placed in one direction just like with Corduroy and
velvet.

Laying Pattern over the Fabric:

1. Clean the table to have a spacious place to work on.

2. Fold the material with the right face on the inside.
3. Lay the entire pettern on the lenghtwise grain.
4. Place weights over the pattern or pin the pattern so as not to be moved.
5. Trace all seam lines and necessary marks to have a better result fo work.
6. Add the necessary allowance before cutting.
7. Check all details to be assured that everything is traced properly.

Cutting the Fabric:

1. Use sharp sheras in cutting the fabric.

2. Move around the table while cutting.
3. Do not lift the fabric while cutting. You might accidentally cut another piece.

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4. Let the pattern be folded with thw parts to ensure that all pieces are properly
attended to.

5.2.2 Seam Allowance

Is an added amount of fabric beyond the traced pattern.

Seam allowance must be added to all sewing edges:

1. Neck edge, collars, pockets and facings need ¼ inch of seam allowance.
2. Shoulder, arm holds and sleeve caps need ¼ inch of seam allowance.
3. Hem of sleeves, skirts, blouses, polos, shorts is 1 ¼ allowance.
4. Back crotch of short pants or trousers is 1 ¼ allowance.
5. Side seams of blouses, blazers and skirts is 1 inch allowance.

5.2.3 The Unit Method of Construction in Clothing

Unit Construction – a systematic way of sewing together the parts of a garment by

piece or by unit.

Unit – any group of garments cut by piece.

Advantage of the Unit Method

1. To put together the smallest pieces for easy handling.

2. A completed part can be set aside and easily be attached.
3. Speed is attained.
4. The individual will enjoy sewing beacuse of the systematic way of constructing
garments.

5.2.4 Planning a Project

Planning a casual dress project involves several key steps to ensure a

successful outcome. Begin by defining your project’s goals, target audience, and
overall concept. Research current fashion trends and gather inspiration to develop a
clear design direction. Create sketches or digital mock-ups of your dress ideas from
your created designs. Consider elements like silhouette, fabric, and color. Next,
outline a budget for materials, manufacturing, and any additional expenses.
Once you have a solid design, source the necessary fabrics and materials,
keeping quality and sustainability in mind. Develop a pattern and prototype, testing
it for fit and comfort. Coordinate with you instructor to bring your design to life. Be
prepared to make adjustments and based on feedback and testing or fitting.

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Create an A line dress silhouette which suits your body. You can use this
silhouette to design your own clothes in many ways. The variations and versatility
of this style are endless.

You can alter the pattern to draft and add your own sleeves or make it suit
your body shape – like add a puffy sleeve or long sleeves or make it knee length
or change the neckline to a deep V or make it in a single colour or pattern or add a
fabric bow or a sash, eliminate the front placket altogether or add darts to make it
look better.

https://sewguide.com/a-line-dress-pattern/

Step 1 Cut out the pattern piece for the back

You need to take body measurements – bust round, shoulder tip to shoulder tip.
Decide on the length of the dress you want, preferably under the knee. Check out the

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post “take body measurements” for more details on correctly taking your body
measurements.

Cut out 2 pieces of fabric – 40 inches ( or the length you want for the dress) long of a
44-inch wide fabric.

Below given is the markings for the back piece. Fold one of the fabric pieces by the
center. Keep the center fold to your left and mark as in the following diagrams.

Step 2 Front piece

Mark the front piece as per the pattern given below but do not cut out immediately

If you are doing embroidery do not cut the pattern piece AT ALL. Mark the pattern
markings and then draw the design

Even if you are not doing embroidery do not cut out the neck portion. All other
markings are cut out except the neckline.

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For alternative ways to mark the armhole check out the post – armscye/armhole
measurement or the dress pattern given down below.

Step 3 Do embroidery

Draw the embroidery design. You can copy from some embroidery book or look at
some simple designs online or simply draw from your imagination

If the fabric of your choice is thin you will have to interface the back when doing
embroidery. Otherwise, it will sag. A paper-thin interfacing would do. Keep the
sticky side to the back and press in place. Cut it in the shape of the embroidery with
some space outside.

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I have outlined the flower with chain stitch and did the leaves with fishbone stitch.

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A backstitch outline is given to each leaf. For learning about stitches to finish the
leaf, check out this post on leaf embroidery. The center of the flower is finished
with blanket stitches and satin stitches

When the work is done the back of the work will be a mess unless you are not me
and do the embroidery with more finesse.

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But the front will look good even when it is done in a hurry. That is the magic of
embroidery.

Step 4 Make the facing for the neckline

Take an interfacing fabric (paper thin) which is 15 inch wide and 10 inch long. Fold it
by the center and keep the fold towards the left of you. Mark the neckline
measurements on this as in the picture below.

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When you open it it will look like the picture above. Cut a fabric piece and adhere
this interfacing to the fabric with hot iron. Cut out the bottom edge in shape leaving
some 1/4 inches along the curve

Clip along this curve. You will be turning this portion towards the interfacing and
stitching in place

As you clipped the fabric it will be somewhat easier to turn and stitch. Trim the
allowance or leave as it is. Do not bother that it is a mess. Mine is always as you can
see in the picture below. But as it goes to the inside not even visible from the inside
of the dress it is ok.

Step 5 Stitch facing to neckline

Keep the facing on the front neckline, rightsides together.

Align the center of this facing with the center fold line of your front pattern. ( If you
had earlier made a clip this would be easier to align)

I had not cut the shoulder slope of the facing piece which is why it looks not aligned
in the picture. Pin in place or baste stitch in place – this is absolutely necessary
because if the facing shift you will have a horrible neckline.

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Sew close to the interfacing with short stitches.

Cut away the extra from the neck area leaving a 1/4 inch seam allowance

Clip the seam allowance every 1 inch or so.

Under stitch the seam allowance and the facing piece. This will allow in easy rolling
of the facing to the back.

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Turn the facing to the inside. It looks better now, doesn’t it, better than the mess
earlier?

Press

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Step 6 Finish the back neckline

You can use a bias strip to do this. Check out posts on making bias binding
strips and sewing bias binding for more details

Do not forget to understitch the binding; Hand stitching the binding as you turn to
the other side is preferable as it will keep the stitches from showing in the front. For
printed fabric it is alright but plain fabric will look better with small almost invisible
hand stitching

As you whip stitch take only one thread from the main fabric. (If you use
underlining you can stitch the binding to this and it will look even better on the front
– no stitch marks on the face at all

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Step 7 Bind the armholes

Bind the armholes with more bias tapes. For armholes, you will need longer bias
strips

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Understitch and Hand stitch the binding as discussed earlier so that only a teeny
weeny stitch shows in the front

Step 8 Sew the side seams together

You will now have the a-line dress almost ready with just the hem to finish.

Step 9 Sew the hem

When there is a curved shape my favorite way to hem is a baby hem. Simply turn
under the edge 1/4 inch, fingerpress and stitch 1/8 inch away from the folded edge.

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Clip away the excess fabric and then turn under again and stitch. This will give you
a teeny tweeny hem which is just right for thin fabric and curved cuts

Finish the inner fabric edges with your serger or whatever means so that they do not
fray and create a mess inside.

APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED!!!

Direction:
Follow the step by step procedure in the construction of A Line Casual
Dress.
Note: You can use recycled fabric/cloth.

CRITERIA IN EVALUATING THE PROJECT:

Creativity ---------------------------------------20%
Accuracy ----------------------------------------50%
Workmanship _____________________20%
Speed --------------------------------------------10%
100%

5.3 References

Hilario, C. B. (2008). Clothing Technology Made Easy. Revised Edition

https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/garment-construction
https://sewguide.com/a-line-dress-pattern/

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5.4 Acknowledgment

The images, tables, figures and information contained in this module were
taken from the references cited above

DISCLAIMER:

This module is not for commercial use and solely for educational purposes only. Some
technical terminologies and uses were not changed but the author of this unit ensures
that all in-text citations are in the references section. Photos, figures, images, and
tables included here belongs to their respective and their copyright.

C. M. D. Hamo-ay