Exterior Primers: Curb Appeal Starts Here

Paint finish is critical to any job's success — especially in property management. Curb
appeal sells. And, it's more than likely that prospective tenants or buyers will pass by a
property with a lackluster, peeling paint job without even bothering to see what's inside,
no matter how posh it might be.

Before your painters pick up that brush or roller or aim that sprayer, consider the
numerous factors involved in achieving an attractive, durable finish on new surfaces or
repainted ones.

Questionable substrates, new materials, workmanship, time constraints, scheduling

conflicts and tight budgets combine to make a quality, profitable finish more difficult than
ever to achieve. That's why primers — as mundane and ordinary as they may seem —
are key to the final outcome of any paint job.

Contrary to popular belief, primers aren't just a form of "cheap paint." Using the right
primer in the right situation can make the difference between a surface with washed-out
color or penetrating stains and one that has a bright, resilient, durable finish.

The Basics

Primers act as an intermediary between the substrate and the topcoat. Good ones seal,
hide and bind to render the surface more uniform. This, in turn, allows the topcoat to get
a better grip on the surface and ultimately results in better staying power.

For instance, when an enamel topcoat is applied to a primed exterior door, the paint
actually is not being applied to the door but rather to the primer. The primer makes a
possibly difficult-to-coat substrate more accepting for the topcoat, resulting in a longer-
lasting, smoother finish.

Modern research and development has given birth to new primer technologies — products
that not only provide the basics but attack specific problems. If you have a tough stain to
cover, inherent substrate flaws or even need to prevent mildew, chances are there's a
primer solution that will help you achieve a flawless finish.

A good primer can tackle such tough exterior surface problems as hiding or sealing:

 Tannin bleed
 Porous surfaces like weathered masonry or exposed wood
 Water damage or other discoloration
 Graffiti
 Efflorescence on masonry surfaces
You should always use a primer on a new, unpainted surface, especially wood or
masonry. Primers also should be used in most repaints, particularly in cases where the
surface is uneven, stripped or worn down to the original substrate.

Primers are a must in areas where moisture and humidity are constant, such as the
South or the Pacific Northwest. Mildew thrives in such environments and loves to inhabit
improperly coated surfaces. It is not picky — it will grow on anything porous, from
cypress wood to stucco.

A good primer will augment the topcoat's ability to resist surface moisture and the
ensuing mildew. Starting with a prime coat can extend the repaint cycle from a
potentially expensive six months to one year to upwards of two or three years. It might
cost you $1,000 extra at the start to use a good primer, but in the long run, you'll be
glad you did. Think of it this way: It's not about the cost of primer, it's about the future
labor and materials cost. Primers are good preventive medicine.

Simplified Selection

Choosing the right primer isn't as difficult as it appears. You know the job's scope and
limitations — use this knowledge to make the proper primer decision.

Think of the vast range of problems that your painting team faces in trying to deliver the
expected finish coat, appearance and performance:

 Sealing problems
 Adhesion problems
 Gloss top coat sheen uniformity
 Topcoat hiding
 Uniformity of rough, irregular surfaces
 Curing time between coats
 Mildew
Next consider the substrate's condition and the topcoat finish you'd like to achieve and
compare these factors to the primer categories.

Categorically Speaking

Knowing which kind of primer to use is crucial to the success of any job. All primers are
formulated to penetrate, bond and hold out, but some offer greater capabilities. Some
primers have high-hiding qualities, while others might hide less but instead excel at
blocking stains. Others have higher bonding qualities. The type of surface to be painted,
teamed with external conditions, will dictate what kind of primer best suits the job.

Using the earlier example of the enameled exterior door — if the wrong type of primer is
applied to that door, i.e., one that has high hiding qualities but lower adhesion, that
primer may fail and take the enamel topcoat with it.

Bonding primers tightly anchor topcoats to slick and hard-to-paint surfaces, promoting
durable adhesion and reducing prep time. Use these latex primers under flat and gloss
coatings on such substrates as PVC pipe, laminates, galvanized metal, plastic trim and
molding, or previously enameled surfaces.
Acrylic sealing primers don't simply provide bonding adhesion. They cover and hide
stains, graffiti, tannin bleed and other surface damage. Some primers in this category
seal out moisture, mildew and efflorescent salts, or block odors. These primers are ideal
for delivering the best appearance of flats and enamels on doors and trim, exterior
siding, and fresh or existing masonry.

Primers in this category generally are 100-percent acrylic. Most effectively seal out
common stains found in architectural settings. Perfect for rehab work, this category tends
to ensure a smooth uniform topcoat without stains bleeding through.

Another category — surfacing primers — smoothes the substrate and permits uniform
topcoat sheen. These products achieve this by filling, leveling and sealing porous, rough,
uneven and dissimilar surfaces. On masonry, surfacers overcome mortar topcoating
issues like alkali burn, delamination and water damage to pave the way for clean,
aesthetically pleasing exterior finish coats. Some of the new block surfacers have been
designed for exterior application in temperatures as low as 35° F, allowing you to proceed
with projects even when the weather gets chilly.

A second type in this category — block fillers — fill, seal and ensure the uniformity of
rough, porous unpainted and textured concrete and cement surfaces. These thick
formulations fill small voids commonly found in concrete surfaces for a smooth, uniform
finish coat with maximum adhesion, appearance and long-term performance. Specify
these when painting exterior flat-surfaced, above-grade concrete blocks, concrete,
cement and masonry.

For new masonry, such as concrete, stucco and other similar surfaces, use a 100 percent
acrylic emulsion conditioner. A conditioner will penetrate and seal the surfaces, while
bonding any light chalk to the surface to ensure proper topcoat adhesion. These sealers
allow seven-day "green" masonry to be coated without the standard 30-day cure,
streamlining work time, and will adhere to new or existing concrete with a pH up to 13.
Conditioners also offer an economical alternative to priming on pre-painted masonry
surfaces. They are particularly useful in cases where the existing masonry topcoat has
deteriorated over time.

Today's primers have come a long way — both in variety and performance. This product
categorization and the related new, improved primers solve common surface integrity
problems.

Using the right primer for the job delivers a finish with the ultimate in appearance, value,
efficiency and profitability. Don't suffer the consequences of cutting corners and skipping
the valuable prime coat. You'll regret it in the future.

Learn more about Primers and other Sherwin-Williams Products

Know Your Substrates

Whether you're coating a new substrate or repainting an existing one, it pays to use the
correct products and procedures. Here is a guide to coating five of today's most popular
exterior surfaces.

Fiber-cement

Fiber-cement siding, a combination of Portland cement, ground sand, cellulose fiber and
select additives, holds paint exceptionally well. The siding is available either unprimed or
preprimed.

If improperly treated, cement-based products can be mildew magnets. A high quality

exterior acrylic masonry primer such as Sherwin-Williams Loxon Masonry Primer will
fortify the siding's mildew and efflorescence resistance. Caulk at the butt joints and apply
the finish coat.

Sherwin-Williams Duration® Exterior Latex Coatings are the best topcoat choices for new
fiber-cement siding. Because they have a substantially higher film build than conventional
paints, only one coat is necessary over a primed surface – and Duration is guaranteed
not to peel or blister. Other high-quality exterior latex paints designed for cement-based
building materials – such as Sherwin-Williams Loxon Masonry Topcoat – also perform well
but will require two coats. Loxon can be brushed, rolled or sprayed – spraying is most
common in new construction.

When repainting fiber-cement siding, pressure clean with a minimum of 2100 psi
pressure to remove all dirt, dust, grease, oil, loose particles, foreign material and
defective coatings. Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry. Scrape away any remaining peeled
or checked paint, and sand those areas. Also sand any glossy surfaces to make them
dull.

Unless the substrate is exposed, a primer is not required when repainting fiber cement.
One coat of Duration is all that's needed.

Cedar

Cedar shake or siding, as well as redwood, is best primed with an exterior oil-based wood
primer (some regions must use a latex primer due to VOC regulations). A primer is
essential – it will serve as a barrier coat to help prevent tannin bleed, a brownish or tan
discoloration that can appear on a painted wooden surface. Before coating, make sure
that new wood is dry enough to absorb sprinkled water before coating. Top the siding
with one coat of Duration.

If you plan to stain the cedar, apply two coats of Sherwin-Williams WoodScapes Solid
Color Acrylic Exterior House Stain. This waterborne product is easier to apply than alkyd
or conventional latex stains – with no drips or runs. Available in acrylic solid colors or
polyurethane semi-transparent shades, WoodScapes resists mildew and retains its color
for several years.

One note of caution: Be careful if you decide to go with a semi-transparent stain because
the shade of the substrate contributes to the final color, and the finished job may not
look quite like what you had planned. It's a good idea to test the stain in an
inconspicuous place before applying en masse to make sure it will produce the color you
want.

Another bit of advice: An acrylic solid color stain will offer best results for heavily knotted
wood, as semi-transparent stains will not hide the knots completely.
If the cedar has never been painted or stained but has been exposed to the elements for
more than 60 days, evaluate the level of decay before proceeding. Any loose, fibery,
gray-looking areas should be lightly abraded prior to coating.

If the original paint is intact, cedar siding can be repainted with one coat of Duration.

Vinyl

Before painting vinyl siding, scrub with a warm, soapy water solution, rinse thoroughly
and allow plenty of time to dry. Be alert for mildew as well; if present, use a bleach
solution to eliminate prior to painting. Priming is not generally necessary if you use
Duration or Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint Exterior Latex. Use one coat of Duration or two
coats of SuperPaint. Apply with a brush, roller or sprayer as the job parameters dictate.

If the surface of the vinyl remains slick and ultra-smooth after you've cleaned it with a
strong detergent, you'll need to use a bonding primer such as Sherwin-Williams PrepRite
Bonding Primer to achieve quality results.

Caution: Never paint vinyl siding a darker color than the original hue. Heat build-up can
create heat distortion and cause the siding to buckle or warp. Also, if the siding
manufacturer recommends against painting, there must be a good reason. Don't paint it.

Aluminum

Aluminum siding should be power washed with the correct detergent to rid the surface of
chalk, oil and other foreign materials prior to painting. If there are still dark spots on the
surface, test for mold by applying a few drops of household bleach to the area. If the
spots bleach away, they're probably mildew. In that case, eliminate the rest with one part
bleach to three parts water.

Unless it has a super-slick surface, aluminum siding rarely needs to be primed. Simply
apply one coat of Duration by either brushing, spraying or rolling. Unless the surface is
bent or damaged, you can achieve a terrific, factory-finished look by using Duration
Satin.

Stucco and masonry

The trick with repainting stucco and masonry is to powerwash or clean the loose powdery
surface well enough without destroying it. New stucco always should be primed or
conditioned for optimal results. Since pH levels can be a concern with new stucco, make
sure the primer can be applied to surfaces with a high pH level. This will minimize
efflorescence problems later on. You'll get maximum performance from Sherwin-Williams
Loxon Masonry Primer. For the topcoat, use two coats of SuperPaint or one coat of
Duration.

The condition of the substrate is critical when repainting. Stucco cracks will telegraph
through the topcoat and should be repaired with patches and sealants prior to repainting.
Repaint the substrate with SuperPaint or Duration. If the job calls for waterproof
protection, go with an elastomeric coating such as Sherwin-Williams ConFlex XL High
Build Coating, which also can cover and hide hairline cracks.

Brick should be allowed to weather for at least a year and then wire brushed to remove
efflorescence. Treat the bare brick with one coat of Loxon Conditioner before painting
with a masonry compatible latex paint like SuperPaint, or, better yet, Duration.

Prep Makes Perfect

Paint failure is generally a symptom of poor surface preparation. Thoroughly cleaning the
surface assures proper bonding of the paint and helps you get the most from your
topcoat. Other considerations:

Old paint: Make sure glossy surfaces of old paint films are clean and dull before
repainting.

Wood rot: Fix the water or moisture problem before painting. You may want to call a
carpenter.

Efflorescence: If you see white fluffy deposits of salt crystals on the surface, scrub them
off before painting.

Mildew: If there is the appearance of dirt even after washing, chances are there is
mildew on the surface. Scrub with a solution of one part bleach and three parts water.
(Wear rubber gloves and eye protection.) Allow to stand on the surface for 10 minutes,
then rinse thoroughly. Repeat as necessary. Allow the surface to dry for 48 hours before
painting.

Weather: Never paint immediately after a rain, when rain is predicted or during foggy
weather. As a general rule, humidity should be no more than 85 percent. Avoid painting
when temperatures rise above 90° F or fall below 50° F, unless the products are designed
to be used under those circumstances. (Example: You can paint down to 35° F with
Sherwin-Williams A-100, SuperPaint and ExteriorAccents coatings.)