COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

Prepared By: VINCENT R. SALVADOR
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients
(INCI)
- a system of names for ingredients, botanicals, and chemicals used
to manufacture cosmetic products.

- the Food and Drug Administration or FDA requires every cosmetic

product to have INCI labels. These labels include the product’s shelf
life, testing procedure, manufacturer, distributor, and other
properties.
In Purchasing Cosmetic Products
Do you read what is written on cosmetics packaging and
labels?

What are the pieces of information you can find on

cosmetics’ packaging and labels?

What is the importance of reading cosmetic labels?

The Four Main Categories of Ingredients
Among Cosmetic Products
The Four Main Categories of Ingredients Among Cosmetic
Products

Functional Ingredients -these are the main ingredients chosen

to perform the primary function of the cosmetic product.

Structural Ingredients -provide the structure and form of the

product
Supportive Ingredients – improve the stability and shelf life of the
product
Added Extra - added in a small amount to add consumer acceptance
and to make the product more marketable.
Ingredients of 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner

Functional Ingredients
Surfactants/Cleansing Agent - to cleanse
the hair

Hair Conditioning Agents - to perform its

second function
Ingredients of 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner

Functional Ingredients

Structural Ingredients

Supportive Ingredients

Added Extra
Ingredients of 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner

Structural Ingredients
Viscosity Increasing Agent – increases
the thickness

Solvents – dissolve all the ingredients

Ingredients of 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner

Functional Ingredients

Structural Ingredients

Supportive Ingredients

Added Extra
Ingredients of 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner

Supportive Ingredients
Chelating Agent – binds active ingredients to hard
water and makes the foam stable.

pH Adjuster – to control the pH level.

Preservatives – lengthen the shelf life of the product.

Ingredients of 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner

Functional Ingredients

Structural Ingredients

Supportive Ingredients

Added Extra
Ingredients of 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner

Added Extra
Fragrance – adds desirable scent

Colorant – to obtain a presentable color of the

product

Opacifying Agent – makes the shampoo

pearlescent
The Four Main Categories of Ingredients Among Cosmetic Products

Functional Ingredients

Structural Ingredients

Supportive Ingredients

Added Extra
 COSMETIC
INGREDIENTS
Abrasives
- These are used to remove skin cells or plaque
from teeth through friction.
Examples:

Body Exfoliants/Scrubs – oat kernel meal, salt, sugar, walnut shell powder,
hydrogenated jojoba wax.

Toothpaste Abrasives – silica, sodium bicarbonate.

Antioxidants
-They reduce oxidation and rancidity from occurring over
time.
-They act as supportive ingredients to lengthen the shelf
life of the product.
-They are marketed as skin nurturers.

Examples:

Vitamins – tocopherol (Vitamin E).

Plant extracts – green tea leaf extract, chamomile flower extract, rosemary leaf extract, and grape seed extract.
Chelating Agents
o They are also known as sequestrants.
They help improve the product’s stability by binding metal ions that may
be present in other raw materials.
o They are essential in foaming products as they bind ions in hard water
and prevent deterioration of the foam.

Examples:
Citric acid, Disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and Tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid EDTA)
Colorants
-These are used to give color to a product or
the skin.
- Most of the colorants are synthetically made.

Examples:
Acid Green, Basic Yellow, Iron oxide red, and Chromium oxide green
Cosmetic Astringents
- They induce a tightening and toning effect on
the skin.
- They are commonly found in skin toner,
astringents, and aftershave lotion
Examples:
Alcohols and Witch hazel extract
Emulsion Stabilizer
- It stabilizes the emulsion once formed and
prevents the separation of oil and water in the
emulsion.
- It also serves as a thickening agent.
Examples:
Xanthan gum, Cellulose gum, Hydroxyethyl cellulose, Acrylates, alkyl acrylate cross polymer, and carbomer
 Exfoliants
- They remove dead skin cell layers by dissolving
intracellular “cement” holding surface skin cells
together.
- They are usually found in skin whitening or
skin peel products in the presence of low pH.
Examples:
Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, and Salicylic acid
 Fragrance

- This is used to enhance the products’ smell or

to mask undesirable odors/scents.
Examples:
Essential oils
Hair Conditioning Agents
- These are used to condition and improve the hair’s
appearance, gloss, and shine while facilitating styling and
reducing the static of the hair.
- They improve the texture of the hair that has been dried
through styling, chemical exposure, or environmental
drying.
Examples:
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, Behentrimonium methosulfate, Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium
chloride, Polyquaternium-7, and Quaternium-22
Hair Fixatives

-They are used to hold the hair in styles in place.

Examples:
Acrylic acid/VP cross polymer and VP/VA copolymer
 Opacifying Agents
- They are added to shampoos and shower gels to make
them appear pearlescent.
- They provide consumers with the impression that the
product is rich and creamy.

Examples:
Glycol Stearate, Propylene glycol stearate, and Stearamide Monoethanolamine (MEA) stearate
pH Adjusters
- They adjust the pH of the product at the
desired range.
- They can be considered as Acids (lower
the pH) and bases (raise the pH).
Examples:
Acids – citric acid, lactic acid
Bases – potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, and triethanolamine
Preservatives
- They prevent or retard microbial growth
in cosmetics.

Examples:
Diazolidinyl urea, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparaben,
and Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate.
 Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients- impart softness to the skin by remaining on the
upper layer of the skin and reduce flaking.

Humectants – retard moisture loss by holding water within the

surface layers of the skin and drawing in moisture from the air.

Occlusive – blocks the evaporation of water from the surface of

the skin, keeping it moist and increasing its water content.
Solvents

- These are liquids that are used to dissolve

constituents or act as carriers in cosmetic
products.
Examples:
Water, Alcohol, Butylene glycol, Glycerine, and Propylene glycol
Sunscreen Agents

- They are used to protect the skin from UV

radiation.

Examples:
Benzophenone-3, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, titanium dioxide, and
zinc oxide
Surfactants
- They are surface-active agents and have the ability to modify
the surface of the substance.

Cleansing Agents - produce foam and clean the surface of the

skin or hair.

Emulsifying Agents – used to mix oils and water in an emulsion.

Solubilizers – used to dissolve substances that are usually

insoluble in a continuous medium.
Viscosity Increasing Agents - Aqueous

- These thicken the water-soluble

components of the product

Examples:
Agar, Xanthan gum, Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acrylates, alkyl acrylate
cross polymer, and carbomer
Viscosity Increasing Agents – Non-Aqueous

- These thicken the oil-soluble components

of the product.

Examples:
Beeswax, Candelilla wax, Stearalkonium bentonite, Microcrystalline wax, and Silica dimethyl silylate.