TM

Crodamol SSA
Discover a sensory alternative to Squalane with Crodamol SSA, designed to meet the needs of the formulator
looking for an elegant skin feel. 100% naturally derived, Crodamol SSA delivers a soft, velvety skin feel and is
easily absorbed leaving no greasy afterfeel.

Product name INCI name Appearance

Crodamol SSA Decyl Isostearate (and) Isostearyl Isostearate Clear Liquid

Features / Benefits Applications

 Sensory alternative to Squalane  Skin care
 External sensory comparison by Sensory Spectrum  Anti-ageing
 100% naturally derived  Moisturisers
 Excellent spreading properties  Sun care
 Easily absorbed by the skin  Colour cosmetics
 Leaves a pleasant, non-greasy afterfeel
 Imparts a soft, velvety emollience

Sensory Spectrum in an external company that specialises in evaluating the sensory attributes of materials to
assign quantitative measurement values to them. A comparison of Crodamol SSA and Squalane both as a pure
oil and in emulsion was carried out and compared the following characteristics:

 Pick-up and appearance

 Rub-out
 Immediate afterfeel
 20 minute afterfeel

The results of this analysis revealed that statistically, there are no differences between the 32 attributes tested
when Crodamol SSA and Squalane where formulated into an emulsion. When tested as a pure oil, 31 out of
the 32 attributes tested revealed no statistical differences. A difference was seen in the integrity of shape
between the pure oils, an attribute which relates to the pick-up and appearance.

Pick-up and Appearance

When assessed by Sensory Spectrum in an emulsion, no statistical differences were seen in the pick-up and
appearance attributes between Crodamol SSA and Squalane (Figure 1). When assessed as a pure oil, no
statistical differences were seen in 6 out of the 7 attributes. A difference was seen in the integrity of shape of
the neat oils, an attribute which relates to the appearance of the products.

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Figure 1: No Statistical differences in the pick-up and appearance of Crodamol SSA versus Squalane when formulated into an
emulsion

Rub-out
No statistical differences were seen by Sensory Spectrum in the rub-out attributes between Crodamol SSA and
Squalane when tested in an emulsion (Figure 2) and as pure oils.

Figure 2: No Statistical differences were seen in the rub-out of Crodamol SSA versus Squalane when tested in an emulsion

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Immediate Afterfeel
No statistical differences were seen in the immediate afterfeel attributes by Sensory Spectrum between
Crodamol SSA and Squalane when tested in an emulsion (Figure 3) and as pure oils.

Figure 3: No Statistical differences were seen in the immediate afterfeel of Crodamol SSA versus Squalane when tested in an
emulsion

20 Minute Afterfeel
When assessed by Sensory Spectrum, no statistical differences where noted by the trained panel in the 20
minute afterfeel attributes between Crodamol SSA and Squalane when tested in an emulsion (Figure 4) and in
a pure oil assessment.

Figure 4: No Statistical differences were seen in the 20 minute afterfeel of Crodamol SSA versus Squalane when tested in an
emulsion

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Sensory Spectrum Protocol

The following protocol is used for the assessment of oils and emulsions.

ROOM CONDITIONS
The lighting used is incandescent and fluorescent.

SKIN PREPARATION
Wash arms with a non-abrasive soap, such as Ivory or Neutrogena, two hours prior to
evaluation. Do not apply lotion before evaluations. No skin sites will be reused.

APPEARANCE
In a petri dish, the panel leader or technician will dispense the product in a spiral shape using a
nickel size circle, filling it from the edge to the center. Evaluate for:

Integrity of Shape Degree product holds shape.

[flattens ----------------------------------- retains shape]

Integrity of Shape Degree product holds shape.

(10 seconds) [flattens ----------------------------------- retains shape]

Tilt petri dish to see reflective properties and evaluate for:

Gloss Amount of reflected light from product.

[dull/flat ----------------------------------- shiny/glossy]

PICK - UP

Using automatic pipette, the panel leader or technician will deliver 0.1 cc of product to tip of
thumb or index finger. Compress product slowly between index finger and thumb one time.
Evaluate for:

Firmness Force required to fully compress product between thumb

and index finger.
[no force --------------------------------- high force]

Separate fingers and evaluate for:

Stickiness Force required to separate fingertips.

[no force -------------------------------- high force]
not sticky very sticky

Compress and separate product between the index finger and thumb 3 times and
evaluate for:

Cohesiveness Amount sample strings rather than breaks when fingers are
separated.
[no strings -------------------------------- high strings]

Amount of Peaking Degree to which product makes stiff peaks on finger tips.
[flat -no peaks----------------------------------------- stiff peaks]

RUB - OUT
Use a skin scribe to make a 2" circle on inner surface of forearm. Using automatic pipette, the
panel leader or technician will deliver 0.05 cc of product to center of circle. Spread the
measured amount of product within the circle using index or middle finger, using a gentle
circular motion - stroke at a rate of two strokes per second.

After three rubs, evaluate for:

Wetness Amount of water perceived while rubbing.

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Spreadability Ease of moving product over the skin.
[difficult/drag ---------------------------- easy/slip]

After 12 rubs, evaluate for:

 Compress and separate product between the index finger and thumb 3 times and
evaluate for:

Cohesiveness Amount sample strings rather than breaks when fingers are
separated.
[no strings -------------------------------- high strings]

Amount of Peaking Degree to which product makes stiff peaks on finger tips.
[flat -no peaks----------------------------------------- stiff peaks]

RUB - OUT
Use a skin scribe to make a 2" circle on inner surface of forearm. Using automatic pipette, the
panel leader or technician will deliver 0.05 cc of product to center of circle. Spread the
measured amount of product within the circle using index or middle finger, using a gentle
circular motion - stroke at a rate of two strokes per second.

After three rubs, evaluate for:

Wetness Amount of water perceived while rubbing.

[none ------------------------------------- high amount]

Spreadability Ease of moving product over the skin.

[difficult/drag ---------------------------- easy/slip]

After 12 rubs, evaluate for:

Thickness Amount of product felt between fingertip and skin.

[thin --------------------------------------- thick]
almost no lots of
product product

After 15-20 rubs, evaluate for:

Oil Amount of oil perceived in the product during rub-out.

[none ------------------------------------- extreme]

Wax Amount of wax perceived in the product during rub-out.

[none ------------------------------------- extreme]

Grease Amount of grease perceived in the product during rub-out.

[none ------------------------------------ extreme]

Continue rubbing and evaluate for:

Absorbency The number of rubs at which the product loses wet, moist
feel and a resistance to continue is perceived.
[upper limit = 120 rubs]

Note: Rubs to Absorbency maximum extended to 200 for oils

AFTERFEEL (Immediate)

Visually analyze the forearm and evaluate for:

Gloss Amount or degree of light reflected off skin.

[dull ------------------------------------------ shiny]

Tap cleansed finger lightly over application site and evaluate for:

Stickiness Degree to which fingers adhere to residual product.

[not sticky ---------------------------------- very sticky]

Stroke cleansed fingers (1-2 strokes) lightly across skin and evaluate for:

Slipperiness Ease of moving fingers across skin.

[difficult/drag ------------------------------ easy/slip]

Thickness of Residue Amount of product residue felt between fingers and skin.
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Amount of Residue Amount of product on skin.
[none --------------------------------------- large amount]

Type of Residue Oily, Waxy, Greasy, silicone (% of total residue)

[none --------------------------------------- large amount]
 Continue rubbing and evaluate for:

Absorbency The number of rubs at which the product loses wet, moist
feel and a resistance to continue is perceived.
[upper limit = 120 rubs]

AFTERFEEL (Immediate)

Visually analyze the forearm and evaluate for:

Gloss Amount or degree of light reflected off skin.

[dull ------------------------------------------ shiny]

Tap cleansed finger lightly over application site and evaluate for:

Stickiness Degree to which fingers adhere to residual product.

[not sticky ---------------------------------- very sticky]

Stroke cleansed fingers (1-2 strokes) lightly across skin and evaluate for:

Slipperiness Ease of moving fingers across skin.

[difficult/drag ------------------------------ easy/slip]

Thickness of Residue Amount of product residue felt between fingers and skin.
[thin ----------------------------------------- thick]

Amount of Residue Amount of product on skin.

[none --------------------------------------- large amount]

Type of Residue Oily, Waxy, Greasy, silicone (% of total residue)

[none --------------------------------------- large amount]

REPEAT AFTERFEEL EVALUATION AFTER 20 MINUTES

Typical Values of Crodamol SSA

Crodamol ™ SSA
(Decyl Isostearate (and) Isostearyl Isostearate)
Skin migration (mm2) 1195
Skin Play High
Refractive Index 1.4508
Tack Low
Dynamic Viscosity (mPa.s) 31.27
Kinematic viscosity / mm2/s 25.26
Emollience Medium
Afterfeel Cushiony
HLB value 9
Table1: Typical values of Crodamol SSA

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Solubility

Solvent Squalane Crodamol SSA

Ethanol DEB 100 Insoluble Soluble

75/25 Ethanol/Water Insoluble Insoluble

50/50 Ethanol/Water Insoluble Insoluble

25/75 Ethanol/Water Insoluble Insoluble

Deionised Water (pH 7.0) Insoluble Insoluble

Deionised Water (pH 4.0) Insoluble Insoluble

Deionised Water (pH 9.0) Insoluble Insoluble

Glycerine Insoluble Insoluble

Propylene Glycol Insoluble Insoluble

SLES (10% active) Insoluble Insoluble

Mineral Oil Soluble Soluble

Dimethicone Soluble Dispersible

Cyclomethicone Soluble Soluble

Crodamol GTCC (Caprylic/Capric
Soluble Soluble
Triglyceride)
Crodamol IPM (Isopropyl Myristate) Soluble Soluble
Castor Oil (Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed
Dispersible Soluble
Oil)
Arlamol HD (Isohexadecane) Soluble Soluble

Arlamol PS15E (PPG-15 Stearyl Ether) Soluble Soluble

Crodamol ISIS (Isostearyl Isostearate) Soluble Soluble

Crodamol PTIS (Pentaerythrityl
Soluble Soluble
Tetraisostearate)
Cromollient SCE (Di-PPG-2 Myreth -10
Soluble Soluble
Adipate)
Table 2: Solubility of Crodamol SSA and squalane in a series of solvents commonly used in personal care formulations (10% oil
and 90% solvent).

Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is
made. Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular
purpose. No representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of
merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright,
trademark and designs. Any trademarks identified herein are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©2012 Croda Europe Ltd

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