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Curtains Fringe and Passementerie Strips of lace Design Elements in Current


Height Fashion in Mahalet Marhoum

Conference Paper · January 2007

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1 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.

CURTAINS FRINGE AND PASSEMENTERIE STRIPS OF LACE DESIGN


ELAMENTS IN CURRENT HIGHT FASHION IN MAHALET MARHOUM

Dr. Elsayed Ahmed Elnashar


1
Faculty of Specific Education, Kafer Elshekh University, Egypt
Dr_elnashar@yahoo.com
ABSTRACT
Strips of lace were introduced to the textile market since 1950s. Currently, the world
consumption of Strips of lace exceeds one million kilograms. Today fabrics containing
Strips of lace fibers found their way in many end uses such as apparel, curtain, upholstery,
hosiery ,underwear, outerwear, bags, shoes, medical textiles, and sportswear. The spread
of the use of Strips of lace in textile structures is due to the inherent properties of such
yarns that provide the end user with stretch, mechanical comfort, fit and esthetic in case of
apparel and sports wear. the scientific research addressing the structure/property
relationships of fabrics containing Strips of lace is limited and spotty. Academics and
practitioners alike have suggested that color can stimulate interest and, subsequently, The
current study examines the Strips of lace design elements impact of visible fashion color on
sales of the Strips of lace products in the production department context through a quasi-
experimental approach. Hypothesis tests suggest that greater depth and magnitude of
fashion color increase products of lace design elements. the main goal of the research is to
reveal the influence of the structure of woven fabrics with Strips of lace on their physical
properties. and discussed the development Strips of lace structures. Calculation Stiffness of
lace Strips, by the sag of a projecting strip of sample (Peterson and Skinkle method). The
results show that the selected Passementerie and fringe strips of lace fabrics are suitable
for usage as apparel , curtain ,upholstery, hosiery, bags, shoes, etc.), and medical textiles.
in this paper the value of Stiffness properties to provide dynamic values that takes account
thickness and width of stripe by the weft materials. It therefore allows a more complete
representation of the elects of Passementerie and fringe on the end use.
KEYWORDS: Curtains Fringe Passementerie Strips, lace, stiffness, apparel fashion ,color.

1- INTRODUCTION in Mahalet Marhoum municipality during


Over the past twenty years, global souring the last 150 years in spite of the severe
,multiple-channel retailing, the proliferation condition of infrastructure. The wide
of mass merchandisers, and demanding diffusion for lace braiding flat woven
consumers have contributed to the structures has a very big share of the
development of a dynamic and highly whole activity sectors in Mahalet Marhoum
competitive Egypt. apparel market. In order where more than 40% of the man power
to compete in today’s market, retailers and and 60 % of the population are working in
Strips of lace manufacturers are the flat lace braiding woven structures wear
increasingly adopting new product production There are currently 350
strategies, including both new innovations factories with an average of one or more
as well as product line extensions to manual lace braiding machine (equipped
capture sales from discerning consumers. locally with electric motor)150 with an
The manufacturing of braiding is average of one electronic lace braiding.
considered as one of the largest industries plus a number of manual braiding and 20
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous2 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
with an average of two or more electronic dimensions. These procedures would then
lace braiding machines plus a number of be used in future large-scale
machines these are generally anthropometric surveys as well as by those
characterized by family based Ownership preparing special measurement forms, so
.According to the technical survey that was that appropriate dimensions will be
covered by the consultant through visits to available to designers without the need for
a group of 20 different scales of factories conversion equations. When the ability to
located in Mahalet gather three-dimensional data from whole
Marhoum(Elnashar.E.A.,2003)[14].The flat lace braiding of woven structures is in
reason behind the growing demand for place,it will be possible to take
Strips of lace in textile structures is due to anthropometric measurements from the
the inherent properties of such yarns that body images,and those measurements can
provide the end user with stretch, then be immediately used to convert
mechanical comfort, fit and esthetic in case anthropologist-style dimensions into tailor-
of apparel and sports wear. In the medical style dimensions. This will be necessary
textile applications such fibers provide their because three-dimensional scanning will
fabrics with pressure, which can be be done with the subject partially nude so
designed at desired level, for wound the traditional tailoring landmarks and
healing and muscle and overstretched alteration points will be missing[14]. The
parts of human body to name a few. The design, production, and distribution of new
price of Strips of lace is much higher than products in apparel retailing currently
the price of commodity fabrics occurs at much faster rates compared to a
stripes(cotton, polyester, nylon, rayon, decade ago. Retailers such as The Limited,
wool,etc.). Fortunately, the percentage of Inc. attribute their success to the ability to
Strips of lace in a given product is usually design, manufacture and deliver goods to
very low. Despite the low percentage of the selling floor within a six-week time
Strips of lace in a fabric, the impact of frame(Biederman,2000.([4]. A popular
Strips of lace, on the performance of the product strategy among apparel
fabric is dramatic[1,24]. Despite the steady manufacturers and retailers is to inject
growth of the use of Strips of lace in textile fashion color into previously existing
products and the dramatic impact of Strips product lines. In many categories including
of lace fibers on their fabrics, the scientific active-wear, denim, and intimate apparel,
research addressing the structure/property designers use fashion color to add
relationships of fabrics containing Strips of newness to an existing line and, in turn,
lace is limited and spotty. First,the attract consumers to the entire product line.
researchers will develop methods that will Compared to a radical new innovation, the
allow flat Strips of lace of woven structures process of extending a product line through
& clothing designers to convert relevant the addition of fashion color appears to be
dimensional data from existing simple. However,the requirements of
anthropometric databases into flat Strips of fashion apparel production including:
lace of woven structures patterns, just as longer lead times for production,
they would if they had gotten the data procurement of new materials, coordination
through measurements using traditional of color shading, production of samples,
tailor methods. Second, the researchers and execution of short production runs are
will develop standardized measurement comparatively riskier than those of core
procedures for a set of key flat lace apparel production. Further,difficulty in
braiding woven structures garment forecasting sales for new apparel products
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous3 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
poses additional problems in predicting widely noted in the trade literature(Cowan,
demand compared to core products with 1993)[10]. there is currently no empirical
clear selling histories(Urban, Weinberg & evidence to uphold the claim that color
Hauser,1996)[29]. Forecasting error can actually influences the purchasing behavior
lead to expensive inventory carrying costs of consumers specifically for apparel
or stockouts at the retail level, which can products. However,there is a related
erode profits as well as customer loyalty for stream of research in the academic
the retailer(Clarke,1987)[9].Although retailing literature that considers the
fashion color line extensions are a common influence of the store environment on
strategy among apparel companies, we consumer behavior.Borne out of
know very little about their impact on sales environmental psychology,researchers
of the entire product line. Because this type such as Donovan and Rossiter (1982)[12].
of product extension can result in sizable ,(Slama and
profits when they succeed, or great costs Tashchain,1987)[26].,)Buckley(1991),[6].(R
when they fail, it is important to understand ebecca H. and Nesdale,1994)[20].have
their role in marketing apparel. To date, no examined the impact of store environment
single study has investigated the role of stimuli on consumer emotions and
fashion color line extension in the apparel purchasing behavior through operation of
context. The purpose of this study is to the Mehrabian- Russel Model. Based on
examine the effect of fashion color the Stimulus Organism-Response
introduction on the sales performance of a framework,the model contends that
basic color(i.e.,core)apparel line. environmental stimuli lead to emotional
Specifically, the study investigates whether states(i.e,pleasure/displeasure, rousal/non-
increased quantities of newly introduced arousal)which in turn lead to
fashion-color inventory will impact sales in approach/avoidance behaviors. However,
an apparel line that is typically marketed for the work of Bellizzi and Hite ,)2991([3].
its performance rather than its style. The have empirically linked in-store stimuli to
context selected for the study is the emotions and behaviors including
women’s intimate apparel category in the purchasing intent and actual behavior.
department store retail channel. Through Therefore, we hold that the stated research
the use of a quasi-experimental design, provides conceptual justification for
this study provides an empirical investigating the effect of fashion color on
investigation of the effect of fashion color shopping behavior within the retail
on sales of apparel in the retail setting. environment. Based on this research. In
Increased understanding of the impact of addition to artists using fashion objects to
fashion color within the retail environment embody their philosophical positions,
aids in informing future product line designers themselves found their work
extension decisions among apparel consistent with art world
manufacturing,marketing and retailing ideas.(Thea,1997)[27].noted that
practitioners. Further,investigation of “influences throughout the century
fashion color line-extension among a represent the many stages of fashion’s
product line that is typically marketed for its coincidence with artistic,sociological,
performance attributes,contributes to our psychosexual,conceptual,or other
knowledge of target marketing in the prevailing concerns an example of this
apparel context. The practice of consumer significant period was the 1960s when he
firms using color to attract attention to new defined Pop or Mod clothes(Cibulski,
products,packaging, and retail space is 2000)[8].The synthetic, manufactured
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous4 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
quality of his fashion objects was straight axial yarns may be introduced to
consistent with the synthetic, manufactured improve the stiffness and strength in one
quality of Pop Art. Perhaps the most direction. A simplified description of the unit
common instance where art appears within cell geometry for a bias. More advanced
the fashion system is when it serves as process models attempt to predict the yarn
inspiration for clothing designs. Yves St. cross section from the mechanical
Laurent has created sequined versions of interactions between yarns as the textile is
Van Gogh’s irises, while Miucca Prada has formed. One such model includes the
placed lips from a Man Ray painting on twisting that must occur when yarns cross
skirts(Tromble, 2000).[28].new store in Los at non-orthogonal angle (Masters. J.E.and
Angeles represents one of a growing few et al.1993).[18]. However,even advanced
instances where art is installed in a fashion models assume relatively simple forms for
retail context. installations by local cross sections.
artists(Lombino,1999)[17].Morgan believed 1-2-1BRAIDING LACE LASSIFICATION.[21]
that art will slowly disappear by being The following contain an illustrated outline
accepted into fashion objects,advertising, of the classification system.
and popular entertainment(Morgan, 1-2-1-1 EMBROIDERED LACES
2000)[19].It is interesting to consider Embroidered laces are based on a woven
whether the presence of methods of fabric or other fabric construction. They first
creation formulated by artists within the developed during the fifteenth century.
fashion system represents the death of A. Cutwork: Holes cut in the fabric are the
these methods as viable art practice, or basis of the design; these may or may not
whether the fashion objects utilizing these be embellished with bars or other
methods share the substance of the decoration depending on their size or the
artworks that are their progenitors. style of lace.
Therefore, a degree of internal control was B. Pulled fabric and drawn thread work :
traded-off for the external reality required 1-In pulled fabric work the threads of the
for insight into the question of interest. (loosely woven)base fabric are left intact,
However, to provide an acceptable degree but re-arranged by working various
of internal validity the following rules of decorative stitches tightly over groups of
quasi-experimental design were applied to threads to form openwork patterns; for
the current research: selection of example, Dresden work and other muslin
equivalent groups for testing, assignment embroideries.
of manipulation and controls among these 2-In drawn thread work some threads of
groups, and testing for differences among the base fabric are removed and the
these groups,(Kerlinger,1992).[16]. remaining threads re-arranged or
Egyptian market leader in the branded decorated with switcher.(Earnshaw,
manufacture of women’s department store Pat,1988)[13]
intimate apparel was selected to participate C. Embroidered nets:
in the study. The company agreed to 1) Embroidered handmade nets:
increase visible quantities of fashion color a. filet or lacis - the pattern is darned into a
for lace Braiding merchandise within a knotted square or diamond mesh, either
featured product line for the upcoming Within the mesh or around it.
spring selling seasons. b.buratto-the pattern is darned into a
1-2 Classification: woven square meshed (leno weave) fabric
Strips of lace is also generally nonlaminar, c.miscellaneous other embroidered hand
although,as with a 2D lace braid, nominally made nets.
2) Embroidered machine made nets:
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous5 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
a.needle run and/or tamboured; for buttonholed. Other combinations are also
example, Limerick lace. possible.[2].
b.muslin appliqué;for example, 1-2-1-3 BOBBIN LACES
Carrickmacross applique.(Carrickmacross Bobbin lace is woven over a pattern on a
guipure is really a form of cutwork.) firm pillow, with threads wound on bobbins.
c.machine made braids(or motifs) hand It developed at the end of the fifteenth
appliquéd to machine made net: for century,probably from one of the
example, tape"Honiton,Brussels"princess". braidmaking techniques of the time.
These are probably borderline inclusions in 1.Continuous or"straight"bobbin lace in
the embroidered lace section,were it not for which pattern and background are worked
the fact that there is often Some additional together.
embroidery of the net as part of the design 1)Plaited and guipure laces; for example,
and a not inconsiderable Amount of other the early‘pattern book’laces and their
handwork is involved in the attachment of derivatives,Le Puy,Bedfordshire,Cluny,
the tape motifs to the net. Maltese.
1-2-1-2- NEEDLE-MADE LACES 2)Bobbin laces with a mesh ground; for
Needle-made laces are laces made entirely example,Valenciennes,Binche,Mechlin,ille,
free of a base fabric. They developed at Buckinghamshire point, torchon.
the end of the sixteenth century from Sectional or part lace
techniques used in the embroidered laces, 1)Motifs are made separately and joined
particularly cutwork and drawn work. later, with mesh or bars; for example,
1.Buttonholed needle laces:These are the Brussels and Honiton bobbin laces.
largest single group of needle laces and 2)Braid or trail lace is a continuous shaped
include punto in aria, Venetian gros point, bobbin tape joined back on itself as the
and Venetian flat point, point de France, work proceeds; for example, early
Alencon, Argentan, hollie point, etc. Milanese, Russian braid, Idrija lace.
2.Needle woven laces:That is laces woven 1-2-1-4MIXED LACESL:From the
over a basis of stretched radiating threads; sixteenth century many laces have been
for example,Teneriffe and other"sol"lace made which combine two or more
(probably a development of the early techniques. These were very popular in the
Spanish drawn work).Some knotting of nineteenth century and continue today.
threads occurs in these laces but the 1.Bobbin plus needle; for example,
designs are mostly created with a darning Brussels duchesse, Brussels needle lace
stitch. motifs appliqued on bobbin net, bobbin
3.Knotted needle laces; for example, punto braid with needle fillings.
a groppo, bebilla,Armenian, etc. These can 2.Bobbin plus machine: bobbin motifs
be very simple,or extremely elaborate, appliquéd on machine net; for example,
even three-dimensional,and there is some some 19th C Honiton and Brussels laces
regional variation in the structure of the which replaced the more costly laces with
knot. Because of their structure these laces hand made net.
were originally grouped with the Knotted 3. Needle plus machine
Laces 1) Needle lace motifs on machine net; for
4.Needle laces with mixed techniques; for example, some 19th C Brussels needle
example Halas(Hungarian)lace in which appliqué.
the solid areas of the design are needle 2) Machine woven braid motifs with needle
woven, as in simple darning,and the fillings made fillings and/or bars, known as tape or
"point"lace;for example, Branscombe point.
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous6 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
4.Other mixed lace techniques include 4.Hairpin crochet in which strips of
crochet with machine braids openwork braid is crocheted around a u-
("antimacassar"or"Gordon"braid)and shaped gauge,and later crocheted together
crochet braid motifs with needle lace fillings to make the completed item.
(nowadays known as Romanian lace or 1-2-1-8 WOVEN LACES:There are no
macramé crochet). woven laces in the Lace Study Centre and
1-2-1-5 KNOTTED LACES few in the collection.
1.Netted laces are knotted from a single 1. Hand-loomed 2. Power-loomed
thread wound on a netting shuttle, the 1-2-1-9 MACHINE-MADE LACES
mesh regulated by gauges of varying sizes. Each category of machine-made lace is
2.Macramé lace is fine hand knotting of related to a particular kind of machinery.
multiple threads, chiefly using clove 1.Laces with a looped construction are
hitches. made on descendants of the warp knitting
3.Tatted lace is knotted from one or more frame.
threads, wound on and manipulated with 2.Laces with a twist construction are made
small boat-shaped shuttles. The basic knot on the Leavers and related machines.
is similar to that of macramé. 3.Machine embroidered laces may be
1-2-1-6 KNITTED LACES automatically embroidered and mass
Knitted lace is constructed from a single produced on the Schiffli and related
thread manipulated to form a looped machines,
openwork fabric–a development from 1-2-1-10MISCELLANEOUS
functional knitting, which was probably CONTEMPORARY LACES
practiced as early as the 12th century. Textile processes not covered in other
1.Hand-knitted lace (and any other hand- categories may produce fabrics with the
knitted fabric) is made by manipulating the form of lace, according to the given
thread with the aid of two or more knitting definition, for the decoration of dress and
needles. household furnishings.
2.Hand controlled machine knitted lace 1-3CLASSIFICATION THE BRAID:
(‘hand flat knitting’)is individually designed 1- Rectangular Braid
for one-off production. While the fabric 2- Circular lace Braid
produced is often indistinguishable from 3- Square lace Braid
hand-knitting,it also allows for technical 1-3-1 Rectangular lace Braid: The three-
innovations which are unavailable to the dimensional rectangular braiding process
hand-knitter. known as the 4-step process uses a track
3.Mechanically controlled machine knitted and column method to develop solid net
lace is designed for mass-production, and shaped fabrics. The 3-D rectangular braid
does not necessarily involve a single is created by the displacement of yarn
thread source. carriers on a rectangular loom to form the
1-2-1-7CROCHETED LACES:Crocheted final braiding geometry. The 4-step lace
lace is constructed from a single thread, braiding equipment consists of tracks with
looped by means of a hook. It is thought to slots where bobbins and yarn carriers sit.
have developed early in the nineteenth These tracks are used to create columns
century, from a denser kind of looped fabric and the sequential motion of yarn carriers
used earlier for items of clothing. in horizontal and vertical movements
1. Simple lace crochet followed by compaction (beat-up motion) to
2. Filet crochet the desired lace braid angle accomplish the
3. Relief or Irish crochet yarn integration. The person braiding solely
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous7 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
determines the strength of the 3-D thermoplastic fibers, which are all cost
rectangular braid in the longitudinal and competitive processes. Separate performs
transverse directions. An example of a can easily be joined by co-curing if joints of
loomed Rectangular braider and the novel moderate strength suffice; or by stitching if
3-D rectangular Strips of lace scaffolds. joints must be very strong. The handling
1-3-2Circular lace Braid: In the advantages of textiles are so considerable
photograph presented in the 3-D circular that even when the finished product is
(tubular) lace braider and novel samples intended to be a 2D laminated structure, for
developed for cell studies are shown. The example a laminate of unweave plies, with
braiding process consists of axial yarns no special demand for the excellent
that are fed from braiding yarn carriers on a delimitation resistance of textiles,there is
track plate,a forming plate and a take up still a case for preferring textile fabrics over
mechanism(used to keep tension).The tape laminates. But textiles allow designers
braiding yarns are fed from bobbins to step beyond conventional laminate
mounted on carriers that move on the track concepts.For example,with conventional
plate.The yarns pass over and under tape layup, a laminar skin is stiffened
several sets in the wall thickness direction. against buckling by nonintegral ribs, which
The motion of the carriers to each other must be attached in a separate
and the incorporation of any axial yarns process.The use of textile performs and
construct the braid needed to establish processes such as allows the manufacture
microstructure. For circular braids an even of integral parts to net shape. Thus the skin
number of yarns is required to construct a and stiffeners can be manufactured as one
balanced torque free braid. The 3-D piece.Net shape manufacture of integral
circular braid gains its longitudinal strength structures provides considerable potential
when axial yarns are added to the machine cost savings over tape layup, because
and the lace braiding yarn determines the forming complex shapes via layup is
transverse strength. difficult and integral structures eliminate
1-3-3Square lace Braid:The three- joining steps.The structure/property
dimensional rectangular braiding process relationships shall provide woven fabric
was adapted to develop a novel square designers with tools for developing woven
braided structure using the same 4-step fabrics containing spandex with desired
process that uses a track and column properties.(Seyam,A.M.,and El-Shiekh,A.,
method. An example of compaction of the 1994).[22],[23],
square braids and the finished scaffold 1-5 THE 2D WEAVES LACE BRAIDS
used for in vivo studies. The ultimate tensile strengths of woven
1-4 HANDLING AND FABRIC ABILITY graphite/epoxy laminates and equivalent
The main handling advantage of textiles is tape laminates. The data represent 5-
that they are manufactured as dry fiber harness satin weave fabric manufactured
performs that hold together when they with 3k yarns of and consolidated with two
leave the textile machinery without any resin systems. The woven laminates had a
polymer or other matrix. The textile perform fiber volume fraction
can be shipped,stored,draped (within limits approximately10%lower than in the tape
that depend on the kind of fabric),and laminates and a higher areal weight, and
pressed into shaped molds. the finished were accordingly 12-17% thicker. The ratio
product can be formed in the mold by resin of the fabric strength to the tape laminate
transfer molding, reaction injection strength appears in parenthesis above
molding, or the melting of commingled each pair of bars. The unnotched strength
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous8 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
of the textiles .The systems of microcracks were 20 Tex of polyester,and weft wear (60
are often complex,(Karayaka.M.and P. Tex of cotton, 40 Tex of polypropylene, 60
Kurath,1995)[15]. Linked to irregularities in Tex of Syrma(metallic), 60 Tex of Jut, The
geometry, and difficult to correlate with stripes of lace woven fabrics are being
estimates of local stresses.The interlacing fully characterized for those properties that
of tows inhibits plastic tow straightening. may relate to comfort when used for
usually occurs first in the bias rovings, apparel and upholstery, Correlations with
where the dominant stress is shear, structure variables will be determined.
Dadkhah and et al(1995)[11]. The main Initial testing includes esthetical studies
objective of the proposed research is to and thickness measures. Tests that are
reveal the influence of the structure nondestructive and that do not alter the
parameters (filling yarn fiber type and fabrics are being conducted first.
weave)of woven fabrics with Strips of lace 2.1. MECHAINC OF LACE BRAIDING:
constituents on their mechanical and Comez Machines in Sabra factory,
physical properties(bending, Mahalet Marhoum,Tanta,Egypt. See the
thickness).Additional objective of this figure(1)it is a world leader in"crochet
research include:(a)Establish the machine"and"Needle loom"technology,
relationship between fabric tightness and which are used to make a wide range of
each of the properties mentioned above laces and bands for underwear, ribbons for
and(b)review the current end uses of clothing, technical textiles, passementerie,
fabrics containing Strips of lace and a fancy yarn and fabrics for outerwear. The
critical review on the subject including wide range of Comez machines includes:
potential end uses of fabrics. assess the Crochet knitting machines,both mechanical
present situation of the Mahalet Marhoum and electronic;Weaving needle looms,
lace braiding for upholstery, certain and mechanical,electronic and jacquard;
garment manufacturing enterprises in order Electronic double need bed warp knitting
to prepare a program out line to improve machines;Accessory machinery: wrappers,
the prevailing situation. And to establish machines for the production of cords and
both a suitable working definition of current covered yarns, etc; and software programs,
high fashion and a suitable resource for the with electronically driven pattern guide
observation of current high fashions. bars,for the production of an extremely
wide range of articles for
2.Experimental Materials and Method outerwear(scarves, shawls, fashion fabrics
Experiments are carried out on four groups for knitwear), sportswear(ribbons applied to
of fabrics structure. The Strips of lace fabrics as a binding),underwear and
woven fabrics samples are The fabrics corsetry articles (elastic ribbon, bar-straps),
designed formation technique and for technical uses (netting for sports
produced on the Comez weaving machine equipment and the food industry, high
in Mahalet Marhoum,Tanta,Egypt resistance ribbons special fibers, ribbons
and(Sabra factory), and The fabrics tested and fabrics for applications in the geo-
in faculty of specific education,Tanta textile,automotive, building and industrial
university,and faculty of engineering sectors), for medical uses (tubular elastic
Elmansura university,According to netting,emergency bandages and
A.S.T.M,standard,warp of Fabrics(100% dressing),footwear(three-dimensional
polyester) were constructed with variations fabrics for uppers). Comes in gauge 20 npi,
in weft and width of stripes construction features a 800mm working width, and is
types and yarn size. Yarn of warp sizes
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous9 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
equipped with 8 electronically driven measurement of the values showed that
pattern guide bars the Strips of lace fabrics thickness of
Passementerie and fringe .
2.2.2. Evaluation the Stiffness:
Flexibility or the stiffness of fabric may
be measured in several ways(Skinle.
John. H.,1949)[25]:
1-by the thickness of a folded of sample
(MackNicholas and Hedrich method)
2-by the sag of a projecting strip of sample
(Peterson and Dantzig method, Skinkle
method, Peirce method)
3-by the length of a heart-loop(Peirce
method)
4-by means of a Flexometer(Schiefer
method)
5-by the moment of rotation(Saxl
Figure (1) Comez Machine method)
6-by means of a Planoflex(Dreby or
2.2. Evaluation the properties A.S.T.M. method)
Weight per Unit Area:Testing, Sampling, 7-by means of a Drape-Meter(Schwarz
marking out,cutting,accuracy of weight and or A.A.T.C.C.method)
moisture content must be all considered. Booth.J.E.(1968)[5]In his described of the
After cutting by a standard template,the 30 Stiffness testing the second method By
samples with the three models of stripe Shirley Stiffness Tester,Serial No,45468,in
lace of woven fabrics structure with several faculty of Engineering Elmansura
weft(cotton, university,According to
polyester,polypropylene,Syrma(metallic). A.S.T.M,standards,The measurement of
Have been weight according to the Stiffness of lace Strips. A rectangular
standard atmosphere according to ASTM stripe of fabrics,6 in.  1 in., is mounted on
standard. With aid of an electronic balance, a horizontal platform in such a way that it
with accuracy 0.001g the mean values of overhangs,like a cantilever,and bends
weight have been obtained for each of the downwards,the length L and the angleǾ a
lace stripes of woven fabrics where number of values are determined. Bending
considered as moisture fabric. length,C. this is the length is length of
2.2.1. Evaluation the Thickness: fabric that will bend under its own weight to
the Passementerie and fringe woven a definite extend. It is measure of the
fabrics thickness as a prime factor in stiffness that determines draping
determining the level of effective stiffness quality.The calculation is as
properties such as bending,The following[5]: C  Lf1   (1).where
measurement of thickness of Strips of lace 1
fabrics has been carried out according to cos ø 1 … (2)
f1     2 2
the A.S.T.M standard. By using Shirley 8 tan ø
Thickness Gauge, For the determination of the labour of calculating the function of Ǿ is
the thickness of a compressible material avoided by consulting a prepared Table 1.
such Passementerie woven fabrics,it is a
cos
3 (3)
1
essentially that the test consists of precise C  L 2
8 tan a
11 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
when C= bending length, L= length of the Figure(3)illustrating the seal rings with
overhanging fabric, a the angle B` BC(the width(18)mm B1 to B10. in table 1.
singe on the tester) when a is 45o , the
relationship becomes C=0.00154L , Peirce
suggests that the resistance to bending
which is felt by the fingers is due to the
flexural rigidity which may be calculated:
G  WC3 (4)
when:G=flexural rigidity,W= weight per unit figure 3
area of the fabric. To compare the stiffness
of materials different thicknesses, the Figure(4)illustrating the Soso with sliver
bending modulus may be calculated: with width(6)mm C1 to C3. in table 1.
KG (5)
Q 
d3
whenQ=bending modulus,d=thickness,K=a
constant. [25].
3. Results and Discussions figure 4
Several goals were established for
statistical analysis of the data. The first is Figure(5,D)illustrating the Flowers with
to determine a generic equation, which width(10)mm D1.and(E)show the Velvet
would be capable of explaining the data. strip with width(20) mm E1. in table 1.
The second is to determine whether the
synthetic membrane can be used to predict
transport of pesticide from contaminated
fabric through thickness. A third goal is to D
test the effect of fabric and finishing had on
the pesticide penetration rate using the
general linear model. In samples were then
removed and passed through a laboratory
experiments and calculation,with 30
E
samples properties,and evaluation
methods of fabrics containing Strips of lace
will be written. To achieve this goal, figure 5
Figure(2)show the Curtains Fringe and
Passementerie Strips with width(40)mm
from A1 to A 14. in table 1. Figure(6)illustrating the Cloth for shoes
And Built for woman with width (47) mm. as
F1 in table 1.

figure 2

figure 6
11 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
generated by the application may be
directly integrated into the Info Design
Presentation passementerie strips of lace
design.
3.1. Calculation Stiffness of lace Strips
figures2,3,4,5.6 and table(1) illustrating the we calculating the Stiffness of lace Strips
properties of structures and using a by the second methods, with equation
Pantone color library is provided with number(4).For Skinhle.John.
passementerie strips of lace design. H.(1949)[25]. Then we obtained the value
A selection of special functions and tools of G,and,W. in table(1). so to organize data
allow the user to accelerate the coloring into a worksheet, select the data columns
process by avoiding commonly repeated to graph,and select graph types and styles.
procedures. As this passementerie and and also to modify graph properties.
fringe strips of lace design has been 3.2.Result analyses:
developed under the current hight fashion the following in table(1)and graphs(1-
environment, the user must be familiar 12)including the of lace Strips properties
with Comez Machines as "crochet as,Stiffness,weight,thickness,length,colors.
machine" and "Needle loom" technology,
which concepts and functions. the designs
Table (1): Result of laboratory experiments and Pantone textile Number
Type Color of name ands number in Wa Physical properties
s of PANTONE system rp
stripe Background anaglyph N Thi Stuffiness Wight/
ckn Gram
L C G
ess (W)
/m
m
Curtains Fringe Strips (heavy Passementerie) with width (40) mm
A1 Crystal Blue Biscuit 9 4.1 2.3 0.003542 0.010985463 65.0
(13-4411 CVT) (16-1336 CVT)
A2 Cream Black Ink 9 4.3 2.2 0.003388 0.00686 56.11
(12-0817 CVT) (19-0506 CVT)
A3 Cream Pink Flambe 9 3.4 1.8 0.002772 0.00390 53.83
(12-0817 CVT) (18-2133 CVT)
A4 Biscuit Pink Flambe 9 4.6 1.75 0.002695 0.00439 60.77
(16-1336 CVT) (18-2133 CVT)
A5 Golden Poppy Rose Violet 9 4.1 1.7 0.002618 0.00333 57.04
16-1462 CVT) (17-2624 CVT)
A6 Cream Peridot (17-0336 9 4.4 2.1 0.00324 0.00582 55.54
(12-0817 CVT) CVT)
+ Doe (16-1333 CVT)
A7 Golf Green Golden Poppy 9 3.4 2.4 0.003696 0.00682 51.33
(18-5642 CVT) 16-1462 CVT)
A8 Cream Green Tint 9 3.8 1.95 0.003003 0.00431 54.25
(12-0817 CVT) (13-6106 CVT)
A9 Green Tint Biscuit 9 4.1 2.0 0.00308 0.00515 56.08
(13-6106 CVT) (16-1336 CVT)
A10 Bird Of Golden Poppy 9 3.9 1.9 0.002926 0.00389 53.75
Paradise 16-1462 CVT)
(16-1357 CVT)
A11 Biscuit Golden Poppy 9 5.2 2.4 0.003696 0500..0 60.5
(16-1336 CVT) 16-1462 CVT)
A12 Biscuit Bird Of Paradise 9 4.5 2.7 0.004158 0.01373917 57.6
12 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
(16-1336 CVT) (16-1357 CVT)
A13 Golden Poppy Biscuit 9 4.3 1.25 0.001925 0.001371 57.72
16-1462 CVT) (16-1336 CVT)
A14 Golden Poppy Biscuit 9 3.3 2.15 0.003311 0.00501 51.7
16-1462 CVT) (16-1336 CVT)
seal rings(light Passementerie) with width (18 ) mm
B1 Bright Gold White Swan 4 2.2 1.85 0.002849 0.0000086 7.21
(16-0947 CVT) (12-0000 CVT)
B2 Pastel Green White Swan 4 2.7 2.1 0.003234 0.0000077 6.11
(13-0116 CVT) (12-0000 CVT)
B3 Chinese Red White Swan 4 2.6 1.75 0.002695 0.0000041 5.97
(18-1663 CVT) (12-0000 CVT)
B4 Tobacco Brown White Swan 4 2.8 1.8 0.002772 0.0000107 7.97
(17-1327 CVT) (12-0000 CVT)
B5 Flax White Swan 4 3.2 1.2 0.001848 0.0000049 9.29
(13-0935 CVT) (12-0000 CVT)
B6 Honey Yellow White Swan 4 2.8 1.55 0.002387 0.0000126 9.78
(16-1143 CVT) (12-0000 CVT)
B7 White Swan White Swan 4 2.7 1.4 0.002156 0.0000013 5.07
(12-0000 CVT) (12-0000 CVT)
B8 Deep Red White Swan 4 2.7 1.5 0.00231 0.0000017 5.24
Brown (12-0000 CVT)
(19-1321 CVT)
B9 Pastel Yellow White Swan 4 2.9 1.8 0.002772 0.0000114 8.13
(11-0616 CVT) (12-0000 CVT)
B10 Ivory Cream White Swan 4 3.2 0.85 0.001309 0.0000014 8.7
(13-1011 CVT) (12-0000 CVT)
Soso with sliver (light P Passementerie) with width (6) mm
C1 Deep Red Silver Sage 2 1.9 1.9 0.002926 0.0000005 2.87
Brown (17-0510 CVT)
(19-1321 CVT)
C2 (Light Gray) Silver Sage 2 1.9 1.8 0.002772 0.0000003 2.59
12-0404 CVT (17-0510 CVT)
C3 Black Ink Silver Sage 2 1.9 1.6 0.002464 0.0000003 2.73
(19-0506 (17-0510 CVT)
CVT)
Flowers (light Passementerie) with width (10) mm
D1 Biscuit (16-1336 CVT)+ 2 1.5 1.55 0.002387 0.0000004 3.32
Blue Nights(19-4023 CVT)
Velvet strip with width (20) mm
E1 Black Ink Antique White 4 2.0 2.0 0.00308 0.00004446 6.2
(19-0506 VT) (11-0105 CVT)
Cloth for shoes And Built for woman with width (47) mm
F1 Golden White Swan 14 1.6 1.8 0.002772 0.00000696 12.78
Yellow (15- (12-0000 CVT)
0953 CVT)

Figure(7)This behavior indicates that the content as weight and thickness. When
filling spaces in between fiber-to-fiber and weight raise up the raise up too, Then the
yarn-to-yarn in the fabric,construction is weight and thickness
increasing by floated the warp and filling
up.Obviously,the specific stuffiness is
significantly influenced by the thickness
13 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
curtains
Effect the weft Stiffness of Effect the weft Stiffness of seal
Curtains Fringre as lace Strips rings lace Strips

Stiffness of lace (flexural rigidity )


Stiffness of lace (flexural

B1
A2 A7
B2
rigidity )

A6
A9 A11 A14
A4 A8 A10
A3 B5
A5
B3
A13
0
B8 B10
B7
1
A

Fig7 Effect of woven fsbrics on Thickness


0
Fig9 Effect of wefts on lace strip

1
B
on Thickness and stiffiness
Figure(8)illustrating the relationship
between Stiffness of Curtains Fringe and
Passementerie Strips for apparel(seal
rings) the woven fabric construction and the Figure(10)illustrating the relationship
specific materials with Stiffness at the two between Effect the weft weights of seal
woven fabrics construction. rings lace thickness of Strips and stiffness.
When weight raise up the raise up too.
Then the weight and thickness are the
the relationship between Stiffness
of curtains frngre strip and apparel(seal direct proportionality of stiffness, so the
rings) seal rings lace more suitable for apparels
with varies colors.
A2 A7
Stiffness

(flexural
of lace

A6 A11
A4
A9 A14 Effect the weft weights of seal
A8
A3 A10 rings lace Strips

Stiffness of lace (flexural rigidity )


A5
B6
B5
0 .9 .8 .7 .6 .5 .4 .3 .2 .1 9 .9

A13 B10
9

B4 B9
0 B1
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
A1

Fig 8 Effect of Wight on Stiffness B2 B3


B7 B8
curtains seal rings
0
B5

B1
9
4

6
2

7
B8
B3

B
B

B
B

B
B1

Figure(9)illustrating the relationship


between the Effect the various wefts
B1
B2
B3
B4
B5
B6
B7
B8
B9
B1

Stiffness of seal rings lace Strips of woven Fig10 Effect of wefts on lace strip
fabric construction and the specific on Thickness and weight
materials with thickness and Stiffness.

Figure(11)illustrating the stuffiness of


Curtains Fringe(heavy weight
Passementerie with width(40)mm,the
average G=flexural rigidity(0.00604)it is
more stuffiness,the seal rings(light
Passementerie with width(8)mm the
14 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
average G=flexural rigidity(0.00000644) women.
stuffiness is less than curtain, it can be use
in apparel,the Soso with sliver(light
Effect the weft weights and
Passementerie)with width(6)mm,the
average G=flexural rigidity thckness by average lace Strips

weight gramand thickness


(0.000000366)there is no stuffiness it more

So s e Fring 0 .9 .8 .7 .6 .5 .4 .3 .2 .1 9 .9
9
useful in Appeal, Flowers(light seal rings

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Cloth for shoes
passementerie) with width(10)mm, the
Curtains
average G=flexural rigidity 0.0000004,it is Fringe Flowers

mm
more proverbial popular in height current rings Cloth for
Soso with sliver
seal
FlowVelvet
ersshoes
apparel fashion for women. Velvet strip
with width(20)mm, the average G=flexural

s h et
e
s s
Flo liv er
rs

s
w i ring

oe
rigidity,0.00004446,. Cloth for shoes And

f or elv
we
V
s o al
Built for woman with width(47)mm, the

th
ins
rta
average G=flexural rigidity

th
Clo
Cu
0.00000696.
Fig12 Effect of wefts on lace
curtains
strip on Thickness and weight
Effect the weft weights of seal
Stiffness of lace (flexural rigidity )

rings lace Strips


4. Conclusions
First: Our results indicated that greater
depth of visible fashion color contribute to
0

the profitability of a Curtains Fringe and


0

Passementerie Strips of Lace in apparel


0

product line in the international department


0

store fashion. the results suggest some


s h et
So s e Fring 0
e
s liv s
Flo er
rs

important implications for researchers,


w i ring

oe
f or elv
we
V

apparel producers and marketers. And


s o al
th
ins

emphasis on using international colors code


rta

th
Clo
Cu

systems as(Pantone textile), Therefore,it


Fig11 Effect of wefts on lace would be helpful to examine the direct
strip on Thickness and weight impact of color on consumer stimulation in
a controlled environment, so the
international trade,greater understanding of
Figure(12)illustrating effect the different
this phenomenon could help us to
structure of lace on weights and thickness
understand the degree to which different
as average lace Strips, the relationship
factors(e.g.,color,and promotions)affect
between effect the weft and structure of
approach and avoidance behaviors in high
lace weights of curtains finger,its more
load environments. Further,it would be
heavy and thickness,than the others, Then
useful to examine how different stimuli
the weight and thickness are the direct
affect purchasing behavior,fashion color for
proportionality of stiffness,so the seal rings
apparel and Curtains Fringe and
lace more suitable for apparels with varies
Passementerie Strips of Lace occurs on a
colors. And Flowers(light
regular basis, season after season.
passementerie)with,the best average
Marketers, designers and manufacturers
G=flexural rigidity 0.0000004,and more light
have to make routine color decisions for
weight than others,it`s more proverbial
their product lines.
popular in height current apparel fashion for
15 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
Scound: the stuffiness of Curtains Fringe [4]Biederman,D.(2000) Setting the Fashion
the average G=flexural rigidity(0.00604)it is Pace,” Traffic World, 263, 10, 22-25.
more stuffiness, than other so its more [5]Booth.J.E.,(1968). Prancipals of textiles
useful for durability , the seal rings(light testing, an introduction to physical Methods of
Passementerie with have average testing textile fibers, Yarn and Fabrics. The
G=flexural rigidity(0.00000644) stuffiness is third edition John E.Booth,1968.published by
less than curtain, it can be use in apparel, Heywood books. London.
curtain, upholstery, hosiery, the Soso with [6]Buckley, P. G.(1991) An S-O-R model of the
sliver(light Passementerie). the average purchase of an item in a store, Advances in
G=flexural rigidity (0.000000366)there is Consumer Research, Vol. 18,
no stuffiness it more useful in Appeal, [7]Burr.S.T and D.H.Morris,(1995)
Flowers(light passementerie)the average "Characterization of 2-Dimensionally Braided
G=flexural rigidity 0.0000004,it is more Composites Subject to Static and Fatigue
proverbial popular in height current apparel Loading,"in Mechanics of Textile Composites
fashion for women. And it s more useful for Conference,ed.C.C.Poe, Jr.and
line emphasis the union the design C.E.Harris,NASA Conference Publication 3311.
elements of the woman's apparels . Velvet [8]Cibulski,D.(2000). Passion for fashion:in
strip with width(20)mm, the average Paris,clothing as high art. Art Papers,24,14-15.
G=flexural rigidity,0.00004446,. Cloth for [9]Clarke,W.L.(1987).Integrating the logistics
shoes And Built for woman, the average of merchandise management, Retail Control,
G=flexural rigidity 0.00000696 its more June/July, 21-30.
useful for this branch. [10]Cowan,W.R.(1993, December). Store
fixturing and display retailers strategic tool for
5. Acknowledgment product positioning and productivity in the
The author wish’s to express his ’1991s. Chain Store Age Executive with
appreciation to Mr. Ashraf Galal Sabra, Shopping Center Age, 69, 135-136.
the Owner of SABRA Factory (spinning [11]Dadkhah. M.S. ,W. L. Morris, T. Kniveton,
and weaving the lace Fabrics),Mahalet and B. N. Cox, (1995)."Simple Models for
Marhoum,Tanta-Egypt,that have supported Triaxially Braided Composites," Composites 26,
this research. Also his grateful to Prof. Dr. 91-102 .
Hemdan Aboutaleb the Head of Textiles Conference,ed.C.C.Poe,Jr.and C. E. Harris,
Engineering faculty of engineering, NASA Conference Publication 3311.
Mansoura University, Egypt for his [12]Donovan,R.J.and Rossiter,J.R. (1982)Store
confidence and support for this study. atmosphere: An environmental psychology
approach, Journal of Retailing, 58, 34-57.
[13]Earnshaw, Pat, Needle-made laces, Collins
6. References:
Australia, 1988.
[1]Anderson, K. and Seyam A.M.,(2004)
[14]Elnashar.E.A.,(2003)”Effect of
Developing Seamless Shaped Woven Medical
internationalization Small firms on
Products, Journal of Medical Engineering &
Development Design of a Braiding Flat Woven
Technology 28, 110-116, May/June 2004.
Structures in Mahalet Marhoum”.4th conference
[2]Bath,(1974)Virginia Churchill, Lace,
of Egyptian Rural Development 15-17
Regnery, Chicago,.
Sept.2003 conference Proceeding(2)(organized
[3]Bellizzi,J.A.and Hite,R.E.(1992(
by: Elmonovia University faculty of
Environmental color, consumer feelings, and
engineering) Elmonovia University, Egypt.
purchase likelihood, Psychology &
[15]Karayaka. M. and P. Kurath,
Marketing( 363-347 :)5(9,September/October.
(1995)."Deformation and Failure Behaviour of
16 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive
The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous
Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy
(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.
Woven Composite Laminates," J. Eng. Mater. [24]Seyam, A.M. and Anderson, K.,( May 9-11,
Tech. 116, 222-32. 2005) Formation of Seamless Woven Products:
[16]Kerlinger, F. N., (1992) Foundations of Can the Recent Innovation in
behavioral research, 3 rd .Ed. Harcourt Brace Weaving and Polymer Science Level the Labor
College Publishers: Fort Worth, TX. Cost?, The Proceedings of the 1st Euro-
[17]Lombino, M. (1999). Viewpoint. Artweek, Mediterranean Textile & Clothing Supply Chain
30, 5. Integration Conference, Cairo, Egypt,.
[18]Masters. J.E. ,R.L.Foye,M.Pastore,and [25]Skinkle. John H.,(1949).Textile Testing,
Y.A.Gowayed,(1993).“Mechanical Properties of Physical, Chemical and Microscopical, Second
Triaxially Braided Composites: Experimental Edition, Revised and Enlarged,Chemical
and Analytical Results”, J. of Composites Publishing CO., INC.Brooklyn N.Y.
Technology & Research 15, 112-122. [26]Slama, M. E. and Tashchian, A. (1987)
[19]Morgan,R.(2000). The “globalized”artist in Validating the S-O-R paradigm for consumer
the new millenium. Sculpture, 19, 32-37. involvement with a convenience good, Journal
[20]Rebecca H. . and Nesdale, A. (1994). Store of the Academy of Marketing Science 15
atmosphere and purchasing behavior,Journal of (Spring), 36-45.
Retailing.294-283 ,71,. [27]Thea,C.(1997).The Biennale di Firenze,
[21]Rixon, Angharad(2002): A fault in the Florence, Italy. New Art Examiner, 24, 34-35.
thread, North American Textile Conservation [28]Tromble, M.(2000). Peripheral vision.
Conference,Conference Preprints, Philadelphia,. Artweek, 31, 4.
[22]Seyam,A. M., and El-Shiekh, A.,( 1994) [29]Urban,G.L.,Weinberg,B.D. and Hauser,
Mechanics of Woven Fabrics, Part IV: Critical J.R.(1996)Pre-market Forecasting of Really
Review of the Fabric Degree of Tightness and New Products,Journal of Marketing, 60, 47-60.
its Applications, Textile Research Journal 64,
653-661,.
[23]Seyam, A. M.,( 2002) Structural Design of
Woven Fabric: Theory and Practice, the Textile
Progress Journal, Vol. 31, No. 3,.
‫فرنشات الستائر وأشرطة المفروشات والمالبس بعناصر تصميم أقمشة الالسيه‬
‫فى الموضة العالية الحالية بمحلة مرحوم‬
‫ السيد أحمد النشار‬.‫د‬
‫مدرس النسيج والمالبس بكلية التربية النوعية جامعة بكفر الشيخ‬
Dr_elnashar@yahoo.com
‫لأقمشرال‬,‫لالألقمشالالس ب ا‬,‫لالألح ا‬, ‫لالسحقا‬,‫الس اةج ا‬ :‫الملخص‬
ِ ‫لبإن ش ر رراةلاهر ر ر‬.‫السة اض ر ررا‬
‫عماالأش ر ررة الالسيهر ر ر ل ر ر ر ل‬ ‫أشررة الالسيهر لقَر لْلظهررةفل ر لأهرلال ِقلالسمنهرلجافلِلل‬
‫ل‬ ‫الة ر ر ر ر ِ لالسمنهر ر ر ر ج ِل‬
‫افل جر ر ر ر لحهر ر ر را لالس ص ر ر ررا‬ ‫ حاس ر ر ررالال هر ر ر ر هيكلالسع ر ر رراسم ل‬.‫ ل‬1950‫منر ر ر ر لع ر ر ررا ل‬
‫لمثر ر ررالالس ر ر ر ل لب ر ر ر لم ا ر ر ررال‬,‫السف ق ر ر ررالالسمي مر ر ر ِلرا‬ ‫لالس ر ر ل‬, ‫ألش ررة الالسيهر ر ل ج ررا لمل ر ر لل لر ر لج ر الرة‬
‫لبص ر ر ر ةةل‬,‫السةحر ر ررا‬
‫ل م ان ر ر ررال ال‬. ‫سعه ر ر ر عماالالسنهر ر ررا‬ ‫أنهجالأشة الالسيه ل َح يلَلأس اِ هالالسم ج ةلب رةقل‬
‫ل‬.‫مي مال جماس ال لحاسالالسميب ل ميب لالسة اضرا‬ ‫ل‬,‫لالسهر ر ا ة‬, ‫ع ر ر ةلسعهر ر عماالالسنه ررا لمث ررالالسميبر ر‬
‫ل‬ ‫عن ررا للالسبح ررعلالسعلمر ر ل ر ر لالس ّة ر ر ل الس ص ررا‬ ‫السميبر ر ر ر ل‬,‫لالسميبر ر ر ر لالس ال ل ر ر ررا‬, ‫لالسجر ر ر ر الة‬, ‫الس نج ر ر ر ر‬
‫‪17 Materials: Structure, Properties, Science Intensive‬‬
‫‪The X International Workshop “Physics of Fibrous‬‬
‫‪Technologies and Materials” (SMARTEX-2007) that take place in the Ivanovo State Textile Academy‬‬
‫‪(Russia) from 29th to 30 May, 2007.‬‬
‫عيق هررالبأشررة الالسيه ر ل ر للمح ر ةل م فا ر ‪.‬ل‬
‫الأل را م لل السمهن ر ل علر لقر لالسمهرا الةلقرَ لالق ةحر الل‬
‫لكلالألس الللِلل ُم ُللأَلل ُحفّ َ لال ته ما ل لبع ل سك‪ ,‬ملل‬
‫ب رراةلأش ررة الالسيهر ر للبعناص ر ِل‬
‫رةل‬ ‫الس الةه ررالالسحاس ر رال‬
‫الس صم ِل أث ةتهال لأس الللالسم ضالالسمة رالعلر لب ر ل‬
‫أشر ررة الالسيه ر ر للبمن جا هر ررالبأقه ر راِ لال ن ر ررا ِ ل ر رريال‬
‫ال بر رراةالفل جة ب ر ر ِرالسل ص ر ر الالس ر ر لا بر رراةلالسفر ررة ل‬
‫السمق ةح ر ررا‪.‬لب ر ر ر سكلالسعمر ر ر ِقل السمق ر ر ر الةل ِلْس عظ ر ر ر لأس ر ر ر اللل‬
‫الللال ن ر ررا لع ر ررللالسمن ج ر ررافلبعناص ر ر ِرةل‬
‫السم ض ر ررال َِ ر ر ر ِ‬
‫السة ه ر َلسلبحر ِرعل‬
‫اللالسه ر َ ل ّ‬ ‫صررم ِللأشررة الالسيه ر ‪.‬ل ّ‬
‫أَلل َ ش َ ل أث ةلل‬
‫ل‬
‫رجالبأش ررة الالسيهر ر لعلر ر ل صا ص ررهال‬ ‫ة ر ر ِ لالألنه ر ِل‬
‫راقَل َ َر ر ّ َةل الة ر ر ِللأش ررة الالسيهر ر ‪.‬ل‬
‫السف ا ررا‪.‬ل نَر َ‬
‫لحها لالسصيبالألشة ِلالالسيه ‪,‬لبإنه الاللأ ل س ل‬
‫‪(Peterson and Skinkle‬‬ ‫ع نررالمررللالسشررة ل‬
‫السن رراِ َُل ُ ضر ر لُلأللالسع ن ررافلالسم رراةةل‬
‫الل َّ‬
‫‪method).‬ل ّ‬
‫مررللالألشررة ال السفةنشررافلالسيه ر لمناهرربالسيه ر عماال‬
‫ميب ر ر ر ر ر لِل‪,‬مثر ر ر ر ررالالسميب ر ر ر ر ر ‪,‬لالسه ر ر ر ر ر ا ة‪,‬لالس نج ر ر ر ر ر ‪,‬ل‬
‫‪,‬السحقا ‪,‬الألح ا‪,‬لالألقمشرالالس ب را‪,‬لأقمشرالالسة اضرا‪,‬لل‬
‫السمنه جافلالس ب ال‪..‬للالسخ ل‬
‫ر ر لتهر ر اللالسبح ررعلق م ر ِرال اصر ر الالسص رريبال رُر ّ َلبِقر ر َ ل‬
‫نام ررالالس ر ل أ ر ل ر لالسحه ررباللالسهررمكللالسع ررة ل‬
‫سألش ررة الب ام ررافلالسلحم ررالالسم لف ررا‪.‬تهر ر لا لل هَررم َل‬
‫ب مث ر ر ررالم امر ر رراللسلم ر ر رراة للسفةنشر ر ررافلالسه ر ر ر ا ةل ل‬
‫عماالالسنّها ‪.‬لل‬‫أشة الالسمفة شافل السميب لسعه ِ‬
‫الكلمات الدليليةة‪:‬لأشرة ال ةنشرافلالسهر ا ةل‪,‬السيهر ‪,‬ل‬
‫السصيبال‪,‬م ضالالأل اء‪,‬لالألس الل‪.‬لل‬

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