MODULE 1 Electrical Wiring Plan

Electrical Wiring Plan - may be a technical representation of electrical system proposed to be installed in
building, or house, which has material, devices and equipment. This plan generally uses electrical symbols
to represent the particular materials or devices.

Electrical symbols is one of the foremost important electrical principles that engineer, electricians, and
technician should know and understand. It helps them interpret a electrical installation of apparatus, fixture
and correction stated within the plan. Other than drawing pictures or preparing special photograph of
apparatus and connections, these symbols are essential in indicating the parts of an electrical device.
BASIC PARTS OF A (CIRCUIT) SCHEMATIC DRAWING
1. source – electrical current like AC or DC
2. load – is an appliance like bulb that made use of electrical current
3. control – a tool wont to cut the flow of electrical current
4. path - there's a conductor like copper wire where electrical phenomenon passes.
Module 2 Parts of Electrical Wiring Plan
Parts of Electrical Wiring Plan
1. Floor plan - may be a plan of room or floor of building drawn to scale if view from above.
2. Legend - shows the meaning of every symbol employed in the electrical plan.

3.Load schedule - details will be seen the schedule of load ➢ Number of branch circuit of electrical wiring
system ➢ Number of sunshine outlets, power outlet and switches per branch ➢ Total wattage rating of the
load per circuit branch ➢ Total current load per circuit and size of wire used ➢ Computation of the full
power and current per circuit branch ➢ Size of conduit used for itinerary and branch circuit

4. Riser Diagram may be a single line diagram presentation of the complete electrical device from entree
up to the smallest circuit branch.

➢ Character and kind of service, single phase 2 wire/3 wire

➢ Size of entry conductor and therefore, the conduit used

➢ Type and size of wire for every branch

➢ Size of protective device from main breaker and every branch

5. Title Block - The name of plate indicate the subsequent details

➢ Name and placement of the proposed location

➢ Name and address of the owner Name and signature and dry seal of master electrician or electrical
Engineer

➢ Printed name of the owner

➢ Initial of the draftsman and also the data when drawing was done

6. Specification - Includes the subsequent

➢ Classification of service

➢ Types of wiring method to be used

➢ Number of branch circuits and their corresponding sizes

➢ Supplies materials to be employed by the contractor

7. Location Map - shows the subsequent details

➢ Bordering areas showing the well known streets

➢ Location of the utility company pole which supplies electric energy

MODULE 3 MAKING ELECTRICAL DESIGN PLAN
MAKING ELECTRICAL DESIGN PLAN All building constructions or remodeling building project needs a
concept plan, which gives details of the specific tasks for the architect, electricians, and city inspectors on
the safety of the project. It includes a project which covers the client’s requirements and its type of structure
that needs to occupy. It should conform to the National Electrical Code (NEC). The electrical plan includes
the following General Electrical. Electrical plan includes the following
General Electrical Requirements – receptacles to be used on the project. Receptacles are sockets that
connect electrical devices at their supply.
Specialized Electrical requirements – specialized equipment’s on each room or area that requires special
requirements such as computer/network/equipment, kitchen/ lunchroom appliances, and other special
tasks.
Lighting Systems – includes all lighting fixtures and controls. This needs proper planning due to its
complexity. Distribution System – these are installed equipment that provides a distribution of electrical
wiring throughout the facility. This includes switchboards which receive power source from serving utility
and associated electrical components such as, panel boards which distribute all required branch circuits.
Computation of amperage to be used for the project is necessary so as not to overload. Once the
specifications, and requirements have met the architect now transforms it into a plan. During the old days
these are drawn as a blue print , but now we use Computer-aided Designs (CAD). When printed the usual
size is 24 inches x 36 inches
MODULE 4 Types of Wiring Devices Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (Part 2)
Wiring devices are current-carrying electrical or electronic products that serve primarily as a connection or
control point for electrical circuits within a spread of 0–400 amperes, 0–600 volts (AC and DC), and AC/DC
(660 watts, 1,000 volts AC fluorescent) like wise as certain non-currentcarrying wiring devices. According to
the National Electrical Code (NEC), a tool maybe a unit of an electrical system that’s intended to hold, to
not to utilize floor plan legend load schedule title block riser diagram electric energy. This covers a large
assortment of system components that include, but not limited to the following:
MODULE 5 Types of Wiring Devices Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (Part 2)
Based on the BFP report, the top 3 causes of fire in our country are faulty electrical connections, lit
cigarette butts, and open flames from unattended stoves, according to the BFP. (https://cutt.ly/5kgCOGQ)
Fire and Electric shocks can be prevented by the use of Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI). A ground
fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) can help prevent electrocution. If a person’s body starts to receive a shock,
the GFCI senses this and cuts off the power before injury occurs. GFCIs are generally installed where
electrical circuits may get into contact with water. They are most frequently found in kitchens, bath and
laundry rooms, or maybe out-of-doors or with in the garage where electric power tools may well be used.

The GFCI is intended to protect people and pets from severe or perhaps fatal, electrical shock. A GFCI
detects ground faults and interrupts the flow of electrical current. Picture a blow drier that is accidentally
knocked off a bathroom counter and into a bathtub filled with water. The GFCI will stop the flow of electricity
within milliseconds when the hair dryer hits the surface of the water. If someone was in the bath tub, a
painful shock will still be felt but the GFCI will prevent their electrocution or serious injury. The GFCI will
“sense” the difference with in the amount of electricity flowing into the circuit to that flowing out, even in
amounts of current as small as 4 or 5 milliamps. The GFCI reacts quickly (less than one-tenth of a second)
to trip or shut off the circuit.
Guide to pick out wiring devices
1. Select one recognized industry manufacturer.
2. Look for a project with a multi-year warranty.
3. Make sure that there is an easy and clear way to contact the manufacturers support.
4. Check for a connected equipment damage warranty.
5. Always ask for manufacturer’s manual.
6. Select wiring devices which are well-made and durable.
7. Select materials that are easy to use and install.
8. Select wiring devices according to the job requirements.

MODULE 6 Types of Wiring Devices Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (Part 3)

How does a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter work? The GFCI continually measures electricity flowing within
a circuit to detect any loss of current. If the current passing through the circuit fluctuates even in a small
amount from the current that is returning (to complete the circuit), the GFCI instantaneously switches the
power off to the affected circuit. The GFCI interrupts power within milliseconds to prevent a lethal dose of
electricity. A classic example of the GFCI at work. Your toaster is old and has a loose bare wire inside it
touching the outer metal housing. If the toaster is plugged in, the housing is charged with electricity. You
are cleaning the kitchen and moving counter-top items around. When you 8 Guides in Selecting Wiring
Devices 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 LESSON RECAP TLE-EIM10Q3M6page8 touch the toaster housing with one hand
while the other hand is touching a grounded metal object, like a kitchen faucet, you will receive a life
threatening shock. If the toaster is plugged into a GFCI protected outlet, the power will be turned off before
a fatal shock is delivered through your body.

MODULE 7 Select Tools and Equipment – Hand Tools

Tools are defined as implements used to modify raw materials for human use. Tools can be considered as
extension of the human hand thereby increasing its speed, power, and accuracy.
Importance of Tools Advantages of using the proper tools:
1. Efficiency of work
2. High quality of the work
3. Speed of accomplishment
4. Accuracy
However, these advantages depend on three factors, namely:
1. Availability and sufficiency of the materials
2. Experience and skill of the workers in their respective fields
3. Good quality of tools and equipment
three main types of tools/equipment in the shop.
1. hand tools because your hand supplies the energy to operate them.
2. machine or power tools/equipment which use either electricity, compressed air, or hydraulic
pressure to make them operate.
3. measuring tools.

Maintaining and Storing Hand Tools An important aspect of any business is the maintenance and storage
of tools and equipment. The investment of tools and equipment is a significant part of the overhead
expenses in any operation. Proper selection and maintenance of equipment are important factors in
managing business. Selecting the proper tool for the job and using tool properly will increase the efficiency
and reduce maintenance problems. Purchase tools which are well made and suited to the intended use.
Commercial usage may entail more heavy duty demands on equipment.
MODULE 8 Select Tools and Equipment – Power Tools

A power tool could be a tool that's actuated by an extra power source and mechanism apart from the solely
toil used with hand tools. the foremost common forms of power tools use electric motors. Power tools are
classified as either stationary or portable, where portable means hand-held. Electrical tools are tools wont
to work on an electrical system. These can include a large range of tools like wire and cable cutters, wire
strippers, coaxial compression tools, telephony tools, wire cutter/strippers, cable tie tools, accessories and
even more.

Air chisel uses reciprocating motion to drive a cutting hammering tool.

1. An air hammer drives a chisel to cut off a nut that has frozen to a stud. It can be used with a variety of
tool cutters and punches to do many jobs.
2. Air impact wrenches use a pounding or impact force to loosen or tighten nuts or bolts
3. Air drill is lighter than a portable electric drill. Repeated stalling or overloading cannot damage or
overheat the drill.
4. Air rachet uses the sockets and attachments from a standard socket set.
C. Hydraulic Tools
1. Car lifts, single or double post have pads that must be placed under the designated lift points of the car
frame.
2. Hydraulic floor jack is utilized to raise the lifting saddle. A lever on the handle releases the pressure in
order that the saddle and load will settle back down.
3. Portable crane is used for lifting the engine out of the car. It’s operated hydraulically by a hand pump.
4. Hydraulic press is used to apply force on bent parts to straighten them. It can also do such jobs as press
brushing in and out, and may press out rivets.
General Safety Rules for Using Power Tools
1. Always follow manufacture’s instruction manual.
2. Never place hands in a very pinch point.
3. Use eye protection. 4. Wear gloves when working with hot equipment or materials. 5. Always secure
loose clothing like shirt sleeves and shirt tails. 6. Tie back long hair and don’t wear dangling jewelries. 7.
Never exceed rated capacity of the equipment. 8. Never remove the protective guards from the equipment.
9. Be prepared for an unexpected event.

MODULE 9 Select Tools and Equipment – Measuring Tools

Measuring Tools The different kinds of measuring tools that are used in electrical workshop otherwise
known as “Rules” are:
1. Ruler – A measuring stick consisting of one foot long strip and made of wood or metal or plastic with a
straight edge that is used for drawing straight lines and measuring lengths.
2. Meter Stick - a measuring stick one meter long that is marked off in centimeters and usually millimeters.
3. Zig-Zag Rule is available in 4 feet long commonly used by carpenters for rough layout.
4. Pull Push Tape is used to measure longer distances available from one meter to 50 meters long.
5. Slide Caliper Rule is a special tool used to measure outside diameter of cylindrical objects.
6. Outside Micrometer Caliper – A device used to measure the diameter of the wire. It can measures as a
small as thousandth of an inch or millimeter. It is available in various size either in metric in English.
7. Multi-Tester an instrument designed to measure electric current, voltage, and usually resistance, typically
over several ranges of value.
8. Test light - A piece of electronic test equipment used to determine the presence of electricity in a piece of
equipment
9. Clamp Ammeter - A clamp meter is an electrical test tool that combines a basic digital multimeter with a
current sensor. Clamps measure current. Probes measure voltage.
10. Wire Gauge – A device used to measure the size of the conductors.

MODULE 10 Types of Wire Approved by Philippines Electrical Code

Philippines Electrical Code (PEC) The Philippine Electrical Code is used nationally as the basis for
safeguarding persons, buildings and its contents from hazards that may arise from the use of electricity.
They are the people responsible for issuing the Electrical Permits which is a requirement for construction
and occupancy. The primary purpose of the Philippine Electrical Code is to minimize the risk of electricity
as a source of electric shock and as a potential ignition source of fires and explosions; and to minimize the
propagation of fire and explosions due to electrical installations. Standard household electrical wire
contains three wires: black (hot), white (neutral) and bare copper (ground). Typical electrical wire for home
use comes in an insulated sleeve and consists of three wires. There is a white wire that is the “neutral,”
and, finally, a bare copper wire that is the ground wire.
For the Philippines there are three associated plug types, A, B and C.
Plug type A has two flat parallel pins,
plug type B has two flat parallel pins and a grounding pin and
type C has two round
One rule of thumb is to assign a maximum draw of 1.5 amps to each receptacle, which allows for 10
receptacles on a 20-amp circuit. Earthing is used to protect you from an electric shock. It does this by
providing a path (a protective conductor) for a fault current to flow to earth. It also causes the protective
device (either a circuit-breaker or fuse) to switch off the electric current to the circuit that has the fault.

3 Types of Wires
• The electric power line enters our house through three wires- namely the live wire, the neutral wire and
the earth wire.
• To avoid confusion we follow a color code for insulating these wires.
• The red wires is the live wire, and the black wire is neutral.
• The earth wire is given green plastic insulation.

MODULE 11 Philippines Electrical Code Provision on Electrical Metallic Tubing

PEC Provision on Metallic Tubing According to Philippine Electrical Code Electrical Metallic Tubing is a
type of wiring installation which is designed to lessen or eliminate fire hazard and electrical accident.
The following rules and regulations on the use of electrical metallic tubing should be observed;
A. Application Electrical metallic tubing may be used for exposed and concealed work at the same
condition with rigid metal conduit.
EMT is protected with the enamel should not be used on the following conditions. Electrical Metallic Tubing
a. Subjected to mechanical during or after the construction
b. Cinder fill
c. Hazards location
d. Exposure to corrosive fumes and vapor
B. Sizes The standard length follows the gas pipes which is 10 ft. (3m) and the diameter from1/2 inch up to
6 inches (150mm)
C. Under wet location Electrical metallic tubing can be used provided the water is prevented from entering
the conduit. The support straps and other fittings must be approved for the purpose

E. Assembly Thread less coupling and connectors is used when tubing should be tight and should be
provided with water proof type of fitting if it will be used in wet locations.

G. Types of EMT utility boxes and fittings 1. Utility box – are used for the installation of electrical wiring
fixtures, like receptacles and for making electrical termination. 2. Junction box – are used for making and
installing switches and convenient outlets 3. Clamps or straps – it is used to hold Electrical Metallic Tubing /
Flexible Metallic Conduit

H. Number of bends of EMT The code requires a maximum of four adapter bends (360 degrees)for
every one run of tubing. I. Types of bends 1. Elbow bends 90 degrees 2. Offset bend 3. Saddle
bend

MODULE 12 Instalation of Rigid Non-Metalic Coduit Philippines Electrical Code Requirements

Installing of Rigid Non-Metallic Conduit Philippine Electrical Code Requirements
The Philippine Electrical Code provide that rigid nonmetallic conduit (RNC) may be used under the
following conditions:
1. Concealed in floors, walls and ceilings

2. Direct earth burial or underground ➢ 300 mm in trench below 50mm thick concreate or equivalent ➢ 600
mm under streets, high ways, roads, alleys, driveways and parking lots ➢ 460 mm under driveways and
parking lots of single and two family dwelling units ➢ 460 mm under airport runways, including adjacent
areas where trespassing is prohibited
3. In location subject to severe corrosive influences and where subject chemicals for which the materials
are specifically approved
4. Cinder fill
5. In wet locations, provided water is prevented from entering the conduit
6. In dry and damp locations.
The Philippine Electrical Code prohibits the use of Rigid Nonmetallic Conduit under the following
conditions:

Installing of Non-Metallic Conduit Philippines Electrical Code Requirements

1. Trimming – edges or burrs at the cut ends of non-metallic conduit shall be trim at the inside and outside.
2. Joints – between lengths of conduit and between conduit couplings, fittings and boxes shall be made
with approved coupling and adapter. Note: for water proofing, PVC cement should be spread around the
surfaces to be joined together
3. Securing and Supports – non-metallic conduit shall be rigidly supported as indicated below

Note: Size indicated inside the parenthesis is the outside diameter. PVC conduits are specified to outside
diameter
4. Expansion Fittings – expansion fitting for rigid nonmetallic conduit shall be provided to compensate for
thermal expansion and contraction
5. Minimum size – Rigid nonmetallic conduit smaller than 15mm(20 mm) electrical trade size shall not be
used.
6. Maximum – Rigid nonmetallic conduit larger than 150 mm (160mm) electrical trade size shall not be
used.
7. Bushings – Where conduits enters a box, fittings of other enclosure, a bushing or adapter shall be
provided to protect wires from abrasion unless, the box, fittings, or enclosure design provides equivalent
protection.
8. Bends-How made – Bends of rigid nonmetallic conduit shall be made in a way that the conduit will be
damaged and that the internal diameter of the conduit will not be effectively reduce.

Types of Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) Conduit Fittings ➢ PVC Coupling ➢ Adapter ➢ PVC 2G box ➢ 1 inch
Type T Condulet ➢ ½ inch Type T PVC condulet ➢ LL Access Fitting ➢ PVC Conduit Pipe ➢ PVC Elbow

MODULE 13 Philippines Electrical Code Provision in Installing Electrical Boxes

PEC PROVISION IN INSTALLING ELECTRICAL BOXES The primary function of the electrical box is to
house electrical connections. These connections might be to a switch, a receptacle, the leads of a light
fixture, or other sets of wire. The Philippine Electrical Codes require that all wire connections or cable
splices must be inside an approved metal or plastic box, and every box must be accessible and not buried
inside a wall. This protects your home from the danger of fire and makes it easier to inspect and upgrade
your wiring in the future. The Codes govern how many connections you are allowed to make within a box. If
you must make more connections, you have to use a larger box. Boxes for switches and receptacles serve
as workhorses in any electrical installation. Some of the metal ones can be ganged in to double, triple, or
larger multiples by removing one side and linking them together.

Boxes should be installed so that the outside edges are flushed with the finishing material. You know what
materials you will be using, but make sure that you know the thickness of any panel, wallboard, or
combinations. (For 3/8- inch drywall plus ¼-inch paneling, for example the box should stick out 5/8- inch
from the front of the framing.) The code allows boxes to be as deep as ½ inch behind the surface of
noncombustible materials, such as gypsum wallboard, brick, or concrete block. This may cause some
problem but you may line up the receptacle and cover plate. Have the outside edges flushed with the
finishing materials in all cases. Mounting Boxes There are many different types of electrical boxes, but
basically there are only two ways of attaching them to walls and ceilings. The easiest method, used almost
universally in new construction, is to nail the box directly to the framing of the new work before any finishing
materials are attached to walls or ceilings. The most convenient boxes are equipped with mounting
brackets welded to the box itself. Simply nail through the bracket into the front or sides of the studs or joist
bottoms with 1-inch roofing nails. Other boxes are nailed with 8d (8-penny) nails into the sides of the studs
through projections in the top or bottom, or through holes pre-drilled in the boxes themselves. Some boxes,
usually plastic ones, come with nails already attached through in-line projections. Occasionally, a box must
be located away from the framing members. This is often true for ceiling fixtures, and sometimes wall
fixtures, when exact placement is more desirable than it is for a switch or outlet. For a new work, use wood
cleats, metal mounting straps, or adjustable bar hangers, which are nailed into the studs or joists on each
end. The box can then be slid and locked in place at the optimum location. Old Work It is more difficult to
work with existing walls or ceiling, box mounting, like everything else in old work. When the proper location
of the box is determined, a hole is cut into the wallboard or paneling to accept the new box. Make a paper
or cardboard template of the box by laying it face down and tracing around it. (Some box manufacturers
supply a template with the box). Trace around the template onto the wall to mark the rough opening. If only
one or two boxes are involved, you may simply hold the box itself to the wall. If the walls consist of gypsum
wallboard or paneling, drill holes about ½ inch in diameter at the corners of the box opening and cut out the
opening with a keyhole saw. When the walls are made of real plaster, chisel away some of the plaster near
the center of the box first. If there is metal or gypsum lath behind the plaster, proceed as above for regular
walls, but use a fine-toothed blade, such as a hacksaw blade, to avoid damaging the plaster. In homes built
prior to World War II, you will probably find the wooden lath behind the plaster. If so, chip away a little more
until you expose a couple of pieces of wood lath. Then adjust the box location, if necessary, so that the top
and bottom of the boxes will fall in the middle of the lath strips. The lath strips are about 1 ½ inches wide.
Cut out the opening as above with a fine-toothed blade. Then chip away about 3/8 inch more plaster above
and below the opening to allow direct mounting of the box to the wooden lath with No. 5 wood screws.
Special Mounting Devices For all other walls, special mounting devices will be needed. There are several
types of mounting devices, many of which are attached to the boxes themselves. Some have clamp like
devices that hug the back of the wallboard when the attached screws are turned. Boxes without mounting
devices can be attached to wallboards or thin paneling with “Madison clips,” which are slipped between the
box and wall on both sides, then bent back over the insides of the boxes. (The longer length at top and
bottom keeps the clips from falling out.) On thick paneling, boxes can be screwed directly to the wood.
Ceiling boxes in old work should be mounted above when possible, as in an attic, using adjustable bar
hangers. Installing Wiring in Wood Framing Receptacle and ceiling box installation. Choose boxes that are
easy to install so that they will be flushed with the finished wall surface. The most common type of boxes
used in residential occupancies are the non-metallic pre-nailed Nail-on type. Position the switch and
receptacle boxes at uniform heights. Drilling holes in the studs. Drill holes at the center of the studs, so that
the edges are not less than one and one-fourth (1+1/4) inches from the edge. If the hole is closer to the
edge of the stud, or if you have to make a notch instead of a hole (where wiring must go through corner
framing, for example), then the NM cable must be protected from nails by installing a protective metal plate.
Types of Electrical Box
1. Wall boxes • They are used for housing switches and receptacles. • They are made of metal or plastic
and have the capability to be mounted to a wall or stud. • The holes in the side of the box where the conduit
enters the box are called knockouts. In metal boxes, the conduit can also be secured to the holes. • One
type is a four-inch square box that is only 1 ½” or 2” deep used in places that are too shallow to mount a
standard box
2. Ceiling Boxes • They are also known as junction boxes or splice boxes. • They are used to anchor ceiling
fixtures and serve as a junction box where wires can meet and run to other areas of the room. • They are
either 4” octagonal or round shaped, and either 1-1/2” or 2-1/8” deep. • They may also include adjustable
mounting hangers that attach to rafters in the ceiling and allow the box to be placed anywhere in between. •
Hangers also provide the short nipple or threaded rod that secures lighting fixtures.

3. Weather-proof Boxes • They are also known as an outdoor box. • They are used for exterior switches or
receptacles. • They are thicker than interior boxes and has a rubber gasket between the cover and the box
to keep out water. • Their covers are either screw-on or snap - on.

4. Wall Plates • They are known as faceplates or covers. • They are flat metal, plastic or wooden piece
that covers the openings in the wall made by receptacles and switches. • Their openings in the
cover match the type and number, or receptacles or switches being covered. Blank covers are also
available.
Module 14
Safety Rules and Practices during Laboratory Work ➢ Observe proper handling of tools and equipment ➢ Always
check the materials to make sure that they are not damage before installing.

Module 15 PEC PROVISION IN INSTALLING ELECTRICAL BOXES IN WIRING BOARD

Supplies and Materials

➢ Boxes as fitting ➢ Utility box ➢ Fastening devices ➢ Laboratory board Tools and Equipment ➢ Gimlet ➢ Pencil
➢ Utility knife ➢ Keyhole saw ➢ Screwdrivers Philips Standard/flat ➢ Push-pull tape rule ➢ Claw hammer ➢
Ladder

Safety Rules and Practices during Laboratory Work

➢ Observe proper handling of tools and equipment ➢ Always check the materials to make sure that they are not
damage before installing.
Procedure:

1. Prepare all necessary tools and equipment needed as listed.

2. Read and interpret the working drawing.
3. Wear appropriate PPE.
4. Determine the exact location of the box considering the allowable distances or measurements required by the
PEC, whether it is to be installed in wood, metal studs or concrete walls. (Note: Refer to the wiring plan.)
5. Install boxes in place as designed.
6. Check the alignment of the mounted boxes.
7. Perform good housekeeping.

Safety Rules and Practices during Laboratory Work

1. Observe proper handling of tools and equipment.
2. Always check the materials to make sure that they are not damaged before installing.

Module 16 National Electrical Code (NEC)

According to NEC 210.52 Residential Electrical Code for Receptacle Outlets

1. Where. Every kitchen, family room, dining room, living room, parlor, library, den, sunroom, bedroom, recreation
room, or similar room or area of dwelling units.
2. Spacing. Receptacles shall be installed so that no point measured horizontally along the floor line in any wall space
is more than 6 feet from a receptacle outlet.
3.Wall Space. a. Any space 2 feet or more in width b. The space occupied by fixed panels in exteriors, excluding
sliding panels. c. The space afforded by fixed room dividers such as freestanding bar-type counters or railings.
4.Floor Receptacles. If receptacle is located within 18 inches of wall it will be counted as part of the number of
required outlets in the wall.
5.Wall Counter Spaces. A receptacle outlet shall be installed at each wall counter space that is 12 inches or wider.
Receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the wall line more than 24 inches measured horizontally
from a receptacle outlet.
6.Island Counter Spaces. At least one receptacle outlet shall be installed at each island counter space with a
dimensions greater than 12 inches x 24 inches.
7.Peninsular Counter Spaces. At least one receptacle outlet shall be installed at each island peninsular counter space
with dimensions greater than 12 inches x 24 inches.
8.Receptacle Outlet Location For Counter Tops. Receptacle outlet shall be located above, but not more than 20
inches above, the counter top.
9.Bathrooms. At least one wall receptacle outlet shall be installed within 3 feet of the outside edge of each basin
(sink).
10.Outdoor Outlets. At least one receptacle outlet accessible at grade level and not more that 6 1/2 feet above
grade shall be installed at the front and back of the dwelling.
11.Laundry Areas. At least one receptacle outlet shall be installed for general purpose.
12.Basements and Garages. At least one receptacle outlet, in addition to any provided for laundry equipment, shall
be installed in each basement and in each attached and detached garage, where electric power is supplied. Where
basement is unfinished than only one receptacle outlet needs to be installed.
13.Hallways. Hallways of 10 feet or more in length shall have at least one receptacle outlet.
14.Outlets in wet locations must be waterproof, the integrity of which is not affected when a cord is plugged in. NEC
406.8
15.Outlets shall not be installed in bathtub and shower spaces even if installed in a waterproof enclosure. NEC 406.8
Module 17National Electrical Code (NEC)

According to NEC 210.52 Residential Electrical Code for Receptacle Outlets NEC 210-52 Receptacles installed in the
kitchen to serve countertop surfaces shall be supplied by not less than two separate small appliance branch circuits.
kitchen Countertops, receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the wall line (measured horizontally)
is more than 24 inches from a receptacle outlet in that space. General Circuitry kitchen At kitchen countertops,
receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the wall line is more than 600 mm [24 inches] measured
horizontally from a receptacle outlet in that space. General Circuitry kitchen A receptacle outlet shall be installed at
each counter space 300 mm [12 inches] or wider, and at each island counter or peninsular space 600 mm [24 inches]
by 300 mm [12 inches] or larger. Countertop spaces separated by, range tops, sinks or refrigerators are separate
spaces. A receptacle shall be installed at each counter space 12 inches wider, and at each island counter or
peninsular space larger than 12 inches by 24 inches. Receptacles shall not be installed in a face up position on work
surfaces or countertops. In kitchens, pantries, breakfast rooms, dining rooms, and similar areas, countertops or work
surfaces 12 inches or wider require receptacle outlets as indicated in (c)

(1) through (c)(3) Receptacle outlets installed for kitchen countertops and work surfaces covered in 210.52(c) do not
count for wall space receptacles covered in 210.52 (A) If the multioutlet assembly is used, each 12 inches of
assembly is considered as one receptacle outlet if it contain at least two receptacles 210.52 (C)

(2)(a) Islands and Peninsulas For the first 9 square feet, or fraction thereof, of the counter top or work surface at
least one receptacle must be installed. An additional receptacle outlet is required for every additional 18 square feet,
or fraction thereof.

210.52(C)(1) Wall Surface Receptacle outlet must be provided so that no point along the wall line is more than 24
inches from receptacle, measured horizontally. Exception: A receptacle is not behind a sink or cook top in
accordance in NEC.

210.52 (C) (2)(b) Islands and Peninsulas For peninsulas at least one receptacle outlet is required with in 2 feet of the
outer end. If more than one receptacle is required due to the area(in square feet), they may be located anywhere,
but must comply with

210.52(C)(3). In every 30 square foot island receptacle outlets, which can be located anywhere on the
island(including a cluster of three in one location).

210.52 (C) (2) Islands and Peninsulas The measurement is taken from the connecting walls it does not begin at the
connecting edge.

210.52 (C) (3) Location Receptacle outlets must be in one of the following locations:

1. Up to 20 inches above the countertop or work surface.

2. Receptacle outlets assemblies listed for use in counter tops or work surfaces may be installed in them.

3. Receptacle outlets must be installed up to 12 inches below the counter top or work surface provided the counter
top does not extend more than 6 inches beyond each support base. Receptacle does not qualify as a required
receptacle because extends more than 6 inches (but not violation). Receptacles not readily accessible due to sinks,
appliances garages, or appliances that are fixed or occupy assigned space , do not counts as require outlets.
Module 18 National Electrical Code

According to

NEC 210.52 Residential Electrical Code for Receptacle Outlets

NEC 210-52 Outdoor Receptacles, accessible at grade level and no more than 6 1/2 feet above grade, shall be
installed at the front and back of a dwelling.

At least one wall switch controlled lighting outlet shall be installed in every interior stairway, with a switch at each
floor level to control the lighting outlet when the difference between floor levels is six steps or more.

General Circuitry outdoor outlets, Outdoor receptacles, accessible at grade level and no more than 2 m [6.5'] above
grade, shall be installed at the front and back of a dwelling.

General Circuitry outlets in rooms Generally, receptacle outlets in habitable rooms shall be installed so that no point
measured horizontally along the floor line in any wall space is more than 1.8 m [6'] from a receptacle outlet. A
receptacle shall be installed in each wall space 2 feet or more in width.

General Circuit Requirements outdoor outlets, At least one receptacle, accessible at grade level and no more than
6.5' above grade, shall be installed at the front and back of a dwelling and shall have covers that are weatherproof
whether or not an attachment plug is inserted.