3Ed v5 Water Cooling Mod.

Version 1

This version is the easiest in terms of difficulty and uses a 24mm water cooling jacket from an rc
boat motor and is an almost perfect fit for the 3ED hotend. It can be found here
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/SAITE-24mm-water-cooling-jacket-for-rc-boat-
motor/1165281810.html or here http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-24mm-Water-
cooling-jacket-for-rc-boat-brushless-motor-Parts/1157344250.html
The only modifications that need to be done are to the fins of the heatsink. They should be filed
down as in the diagram below.
Discard the O rings that come with the water jacket, they are not needed.

Fins 1 & 10 should be filed enough to be able to get your favourite epoxy into the gap with a
syringe and applicator needle ( I use J-B Weld) I would not advise using five minute epoxy.

Fins 2 & 9 are the important ones. They should be filed just enough for the water jacket to slide
over the fins and to be a close fit with the water jacket (this stops the epoxy from running into the
water chamber) They fit pretty much where the o ring groove is.

Fins 3,4.5.6.7.and 8 should be filed just a little to help water circulation The easiest way file the fins
is to put the heatsink in an electric drill and use a small flat hand file to remove the material. Be
careful not to file too much off. They file down pretty fast.
Version 1 in situ
 Version 2

This version works on the same principle as the first version but uses a 33mm length of standard
25mm x 1.6mm aluminium tube . It also needs more material to be filed off the fins than in the
previous version and also a couple of holes have to drilled and tapped for the water nipples and so
is slightly more difficult than version 1

The advantage of this version is that the tube diameter is 25mm the same diameter as the fins of
the unmodified heatsink. This is very handy if you already have printed parts that require the
heatsink.to be the same diameter as the original.
Fins 2 and 9 are the important ones. They need to slide into the tube with a minimal gap.

Drill and tap the water nipple holes before glueing the tube in position

The 90 degree brass M6 threaded water nipple can be found here

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/PZ152-1pc-90-degree-brass-M6-threaded-water-nipple-for-rc-
boat-/121069711819pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item1c305131cb&_u
hb=1
 Version 3

This version is the most difficult and requires some precision drilling and a piece of
25mm diameter x 1.6mm x 18mm long aluminium tube. But if you want a great,
efficient, lightweight and compact water cooled hotend then this is it.
Step 1.

Insert a 5mm drill bit into the heat break hole in your heatsink as far as it will go. Carefully wrap
tape around the drill bit at the opening (to use as a depth guide)

Step2.

Cut your heatsink in the position shown.

Step 3

Carefully drill the shortened heatsink with the 5mm drill bit to the same depth as the original using
the tape as a depth guide. The hole must also be centered, so this is best done on a drill press. This is
the most critical part of the process

Tap the hole you have just drilled with a 6mm bottom tap

Step 4

Insert your heat break. Feed some 1.75 filament through from the top. If you have drilled correctly
it should feed smoothly through.
Step 5

File the fins of the heatsink as above. Fins 2 and 5 are important, these should just slide into the
tube with as small a gap as possible.

Step 6

Drill and tap the holes for the water nipples. Found here http://www.ebay.ca/itm/PZ152-1pc-90-
degree-brass-M6-threaded-water-nipple-for-rc-boat-/121069711819?
pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item1c305131cb&_uhb=1
Step 7

Insert epoxy resin into the gap with a syringe. When it has cured turn it over and do the other side.

Step 8

Insert the water nipples using a thread sealant/locker.

Version 3 in situ