Professional Documents
Culture Documents
UKSC 5186 Iss 28-O
UKSC 5186 Iss 28-O
21 June 2022
PROPERTY OF
MINISTRY OF DEFENCE
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UK/SC/5186 Issue 28
21 June 2022
PREFACE
TABLE 1 – PRODUCT LIST
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TABLE 1 – PRODUCT LIST continued
PATTERN
NATO Stock Numbers CUSTOMER COLOUR
No.
8405-99-974-3336 to 3348 Special Air Service Beige 17430C
8405-99-976-0171 to 0187 The Rifles Rifle Green 13865F
All regiments/corps
8405-99-976-0231 to 0247 except where other Dark Blue 13864E
headdress is authorised
Any colour shown in this document is for representation and must not be used for
colour matching
IPR STATEMENT
This specification contains information, which is proprietary to the Secretary of State for
Defence and shall remain the property of the Secretary of State. It is issued in strict
confidence and must not be seen by any unauthorised person. The specification is
supplied solely for the purpose of Information/Tender/Contract and shall not be copied or
reproduced or used for any other purpose whatsoever without the express prior written
permission of the Secretary of State as represented by the Intellectual property rights
group.
Technical data in this document refers to the edition current at the date of tender or
contract unless otherwise stated
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TABLE 2 – ISSUE RECORD
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PART 1
1. THE PRODUCT
Use of the Product An item of service headdress worn by the Army, Royal Navy,
Royal Marines, Royal Air Force and United Nations Forces.
FIGURE 1. Beret Design, example shown Special Air Service, Pattern number
17430C
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TABLE 3 – RELATED SPECIFICATIONS AND DOCUMENTS
Specification/Document Detail
BS EN ISO 105 Textiles. Tests for colour fastness
Part B02 Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test
Part D01 Colour fastness to dry cleaning
Part E01 Colour fastness to water
Part E04 Colour fastness to perspiration
BS EN ISO 139 Textiles. Standard atmospheres for conditioning and
testing
BS EN 1049 Textiles. Woven fabrics. Construction. Methods of
analysis
Part 2 Determination of number of threads per unit length
BS EN 1773 Textiles. Fabrics. Determination of width and length.
BS EN 12127 Textiles. Fabrics. Determination of mass per unit area
using small samples
BS EN 12590 Textiles. Industrial Sewing Threads made wholly or partly
from Synthetic Fibres
BS EN 20105 Textiles. Tests for colour fastness
Part A02 Grey scale for assessing change in colour
BS 950 Artificial Daylight for the assessment of colour
Part 1 Illuminant for colour matching and colour appraisal
BS 2471 Methods of test for textiles. Woven fabrics. Determination
of mass per unit length and mass per unit area
BS 3102: 1959 Specification for brass eyelets and washers for general
purpose
BS 3412 General purpose polyethylene materials for moulding and
extrusion
BS 3870 Stitches and seams
Part 1 Classification and terminology of stitch type
Part 2 Classification and terminology of seam type
BS 4560 Specification for fabrics for linings in uniform clothing
BS 5790 Coated fabrics for upholstery
Part 2 Specification for PVC coated woven fabric
UK/SC/4667 Ribbon Textile, Viscose and Cotton
UK/SC/5516 Cloth, Melton, Wool, for Dress Uniforms
UK/SC/5696 Leather, sheep, head leathers
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2. PATTERNS
a. Master Patterns DC holds Master Patterns for these products. Potential
contractors may view the patterns on site by arrangement with the DC
Commercial Department
PART 2
3. PRODUCT DESIGN
Product Description A Circular shaped knitted beret with leather binding and
adjustment tape provided in various shades
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TABLE 4 – PRODUCT COMPONENTS
PART DETAIL
4.1 Body To be knitted from 100% wool yarn in accordance
with EU regulation No 1007/2017 of article 7, provided
the quality of the finished beret is not impaired.
Dyed to match the shade of the relevant Standard
Pattern
For Khaki Berets pattern numbers 20126B, D00724A,
D00725, D01513 & D01284 colour match to pattern
number 20126B
For Dark Blue Berets pattern numbers 13864E &
D01520 colour match to pattern number 13864E
For Rifle Green Berets pattern numbers 13865F &
D01991 colour match to pattern number 13865F
Visual shade matching to be carried out under light
source D65 under BS 950 Part 1 conditions
Shades must match standard patterns with a
tolerance of 4-5 on the grey scale to BS EN 20105-
A02
The knitting lines, link line and centre darn are not to
be evident on the finished beret
To be milled and lightly sheared to give the same
finish as the relevant Standard Pattern
To comply with the requirements of Table 9
DC is the final arbiter for the acceptance of all
samples
4.2 Lining (not to be sulphur Cloth, plain weave, cotton Silesia, FS, SF, black, to
dyed) BS 4560
or Cloth, plain weave, viscose, black, to comply with
the requirements of Table 10
4.3 Headband binding Leather, sheep, black, 1 to 1.5mm thick, to
UK/SC/5696
or a suitable alternative which would need to be
approved by DC
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TABLE 4 – PRODUCT COMPONENTS continued
PART DETAIL
4.4 Headband adjustment tape Tape, black, woven, cotton, viscose, 13mm wide,
to comply with the requirements of Table 9 or a
suitable alternative which would need to be
approved by DC.
Headband adjustment tape should be used on all
berets except for pattern D01991
4.5 Badge pocket for Patterns: PVC coated
13865F 19967C 20126B Black
17952C 21123A 21910B Grained surface
17430C 21292B 13864E To BS 5790 Part 2
24573A 24867A D00724A
D00725 D00727 D01284
D01991
4.6 Badge support for Patterns: High density polyethylene 1.00mm +/- 0.05mm
thick
Density 960 to 967kg/m³ tested to BS 3412,
24134A 20509B D00724A
Appendix B
Or a suitable alternative which would need to be
15801D D01520 35/R/639E
approved by DC
4.7 Badge eyelets and washers for Black, oval, as on the Standard Pattern
Patterns:
15801D 35/R/639E D01520 Black japanned or black anodised to BS 3102
Eyelet on 15801D must accommodate a cap
badge with a vertical hook. Eyelet aperture to be
8mm to 9mm; badge must fit securely
Eyelets on 35/R/639E and D01520 must
accommodate a cap badge with a lug and cotter
pin. Eyelet aperture to be 6mm to 7mm; badge
must fit securely
4.8 Eyelets and washers for Pattern: Black, 5mm, circular, as on the Standard Pattern
D00727 and D03120
Black japanned or black anodised to BS 3102
D00727 For ventilation
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TABLE 4 – PRODUCT COMPONENTS continued
PART DETAIL
4.9 Badge flash and pocket for Cloth, Melton, wool, plain weave colour fastness
Patterns: and shrinkage requirements to meet those in
UK/SC/5516
Mass 395 – 420g/m2
Blown finish
Shade and finish to match the standard pattern
Colourfastness and steam shrinkage requirements
to meet those in UK/SC/5516
Pattern No. 8849Z
15801D 20509B
4.10 Badge flash for patterns: Cloth, Melton, wool, plain weave. Colour fastness
and shrinkage requirements to meet those in
UK/SC/5516
Mass 395 – 420g/m2
Blown finish
D00724A Pattern No.8849Z
D00725 Pattern No.8849D
D01284 Pattern No.8849V
D01513 Pattern No.8849W
4.11 Headband Ribbon for Ribbon, dark green, 22mm wide, as on the
Pattern: D01991 Standard Pattern
To meet the colour fastness requirements of
UK/SC/4667
4.12 Threads for all purposes Polyester/Cotton Corespun to BS EN 12590,
Table 5, Ticket No.75
May be treated with stain free lubricants
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TABLE 5 – PRODUCT CONSTRUCTION
PART DETAIL
5.1 Crown Circular in shape with diameter measurements
specified in Table 8
The knitting lines, link line and centre darn are not
to be evident on the finished beret
5.2 Bevel To comply with the relevant measurements
specified in Table 6
5.3 Lining The lining of the crown tip is to be cut in one piece
Lining of the bevel, cut two-piece, to be joined at
centre front and back, and seamed to the crown tip
lining
5.4 Leather binding Binding is to be at least 1cm deep when finished
Attached as on the Standard Pattern to ensure that
the inner edge of the head leather does not come
into contact with the head
The attachment of the leather binding is not to
distort the beret opening shape which is to be
circular
Where lining and leather binding are seamed
together finish should be flat and smooth for wearer
comfort
Where leather binding finishes at rear of beret there
should not be any overlap but the gap between the
two ends must be no greater than 0.5cm
5.5 Adjustment tape Adjustment tape is to be enclosed within the
binding channel
The ends of the tape are to be heat sealed and
protrude 10cm from each end of the channel
The tape is to be finished in a bow as on the
Standard Pattern
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TABLE 5 – PRODUCT CONSTRUCTION continued
PART DETAIL
5.6 Badge pocket for Patterns: PVC cloth, two ply, is to be fitted inside each beret
on the left side as worn
13865F 19967C 20126B The top layer, 3.5cm long and 2cm wide, is to be
sewn to the bottom layer, 5cm long and 2cm wide,
17952C 21123A 21910B
with two rows of stitching 1cm apart to form a
17430C 21292B 13864E pocket
24573A 24867A The pocket is to be securely sewn in a vertical
position through the lining and body
The front edge of the pocket is to be 4cm from the
centre front of the beret and the bottom edge
adjacent to the inner edge of the leather binding
5.7 Badge pocket for Pattern PVC cloth, two ply, to be fitted inside on the left
D00727 side as worn
Top layer 1.5cm long and 2.5cm wide is to be
sewn to the bottom layer, 3cm long and 2.5cm
wide, with two rows of stitching 1cm apart to form
a pocket
The pocket is to be securely sewn in a vertical
position through the lining and body
The front edge of the pocket is to be 6cm from the
centre front of the beret and the bottom edge 2cm
up from the inner edge of the leather binding
5.8 Badge pocket for Pattern PVC cloth, two ply to be fitted inside on the left
D01191 side as worn
Top layer 3cm long and 2.5cm wide is to be sewn
to the bottom layer, 5cm long and 2.5cm wide,
with two rows of stitching 1cm apart to form a
pocket
The pocket is to be securely sewn in a vertical
position through the lining and body
The seam for the ribbon will run through the
pocket 1cm from the bottom edge
The front edge of the pocket is to be 4cm from the
centre front of the beret and the bottom edge
1.5cm up from the inner edge of the leather
binding
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TABLE 5 – PRODUCT CONSTRUCTION continued
PART DETAIL
5.9 Badge eyelets and support A support, shaped as on the Standard Pattern, is
for Patterns: to be fitted between the lining and body on the left
side as worn
Two eyelets, with washers, are to be inserted in a
35/R/639E D01520 vertical position through the body, stiffener and
lining
The eyelets are to be 2.8cm apart, measured from
centre of eyelet to centre of eyelet, with the front
eyelet 4cm from the centre front of the beret,
measured to the centre of the eyelet
Pattern 35/R/639E eyelets to be 3.5cm above
bottom edge of binding to centre of eyelet
Pattern D01520 eyelets to be 4cm above the
bottom edge of binding to the centre of the eyelet
5.10 Eyelets and ventilation holes Two eyelets with washers, are to be inserted
for Pattern No. D00727 and through the body and lining
D03120
The eyelets are to be 3cm apart, measured from
centre of eyelet to centre of eyelet, with the eyelets
positioned mid-way between the centre front and
centre back, right side as worn.
Both eyelets are to be 3cm above the bottom edge
of the binding to the centre of the eyelet
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TABLE 5 – PRODUCT CONSTRUCTION continued
PART DETAIL
5.11 Badge flash, pocket and The badge flash is to be cut identical in shape and
support Pattern No.15801D size to that on the Standard Pattern
The eyelet is to be fitted in the centre of the flash
1cm below the point of the flash
The flash is to be positioned with the front edge,
measuring from the bottom corner of the flash,
2.5cm from the centre front, on the left side of the
beret as worn. The bottom edge of the flash must
be level with the edge of the leather binding.
Two rows of stitching, 1cm apart, are to be sewn
from immediately below the eyelet to the bottom
edge to form the badge pocket
Stitching on the flash is to be through the body of
the beret only
A support, similar in shape to the badge flash is to
be fitted between the lining and the body, secured
to the lining and the body as on the Standard
Pattern.
5.12 Badge support for Patterns: The support, cut identical in shape and size to that
on the Standard Pattern, is to be inserted and
securely edge stitched to the bevel lining
Positioned with the centre 4.5cm to the left of the
24134A 20509B
centre front of the beret as worn
5.13 Badge flash for Pattern The badge flash is to be 4.5cm in height, and
20509B 6.5cm in width, shaped as on the Standard Pattern
Positioned over the location of the stiffener with
the straight edge adjacent and close to the edge of
the leather binding
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TABLE 5 – PRODUCT CONSTRUCTION continued
PART DETAIL
5.14 Badge flash, pocket and The badge flash is to be 4.5cm square and is to be
support Pattern D00724A attached diagonally as on the standard pattern
The flash is to be positioned on the left side of the
beret as worn
Stitching on the flash is to be through the body of the
beret only
Leather cloth, two ply, is to be fitted inside each beret
on the left side as worn
The top layer, 3.5cm long and 2cm wide, is to be
sewn to the bottom layer, 5cm long and 2cm wide,
with two rows of stitching 1cm apart to form a pocket
The pocket is to be securely sewn in a vertical
position through the lining. The front edge of the
pocket is to be 4cm from the centre front of the beret
and the bottom edge adjacent to the inner edge of the
leather binding
A support, similar in shape to that on the Standard
Pattern, is to be fitted between the lining and body on
the left side (as worn), as standard pattern
5.15 Badge flash and pocket The badge flash is to be 5.5cm high and 5cm wide
for Pattern D00725 and is to be attached as on the standard pattern
The flash is to be positioned on the left side of the
beret as worn
Stitching on the flash is to be through the body of the
beret only
PVC cloth, two ply, is to be fitted inside each beret on
the left side as worn
The top layer, 3.5cm long and 2cm wide, is to be
sewn to the bottom layer, 5cm long and 2cm wide,
with two rows of stitching 1cm apart to form a pocket
The pocket is to be securely sewn in a vertical
position through the lining. The front edge of the
pocket is to be 4cm from the centre front of the beret
and the bottom edge adjacent to the inner edge of the
leather binding
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TABLE 5 – PRODUCT CONSTRUCTION continued
PART DETAIL
5.16 Badge flash and pocket The badge flash is to be 6cm high and 5cm wide and
for Pattern D01284 is to be attached as on the standard pattern
The flash is to be positioned on the left side of the
beret as worn
Stitching on the flash is to be through the body of the
beret only
PVC cloth, two ply, is to be fitted inside each beret on
the left side as worn
The top layer, 3.5cm long and 2cm wide, is to be
sewn to the bottom layer, 5cm long and 2cm wide,
with two rows of stitching 1cm apart to form a pocket
The pocket is to be securely sewn in a vertical
position through the lining. The front edge of the
pocket is to be 4cm from the centre front of the beret
and the bottom edge adjacent to the inner edge of the
leather binding
5.17 Badge flash for Pattern The badge flash is to be 5cm high and 5cm wide and
D01513 is to be attached as on the standard pattern
The flash is to be positioned on the left side of the
beret as worn
Stitching on the flash is to be through the body of the
beret only
5.18 Headband Ribbon for Attached as on the Standard Pattern with 1 to 2mm of
Pattern D01991 leather headband binding showing
Joining seam to be made at the centre-back of the
beret
5.19 Plain berets The berets do not have any badge supports, eyelets,
pockets or flashes
4135F 12027F
5.20 Seams and stitching All seams are to be free from pucker
Stitch type 301 of BS 3870
At least eight but not more than ten stitches per 2cm
5.21 General The beret is to be free of all ends of sewing threads
To be blocked and pressed and delivered in a clean
condition
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TABLE 6 – SCHEDULE OF MEASUREMENTS AND TOLERANCES (All measurements are in centimetres except where stated)
Tolerances
+/- (mm)
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TABLE 7 – TL NUMBERS, NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND SIZE OF BERET
TL1031095 8405-99-125-6733 62
TL1031096 8405-99-125-6734 63
TL1031097 8405-99-125-6735 64
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TABLE 7 – TL NUMBERS, NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND SIZE OF BERET
CONTINUED
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TABLE 7 – TL NUMBERS, NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND SIZE OF BERET
CONTINUED
TL1031692 8405-99-132-2262 62
TL1031693 8405-99-132-2263 63
TL1031694 8405-99-132-2264 64
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TABLE 7 – TL NUMBERS, NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND SIZE OF BERET
CONTINUED
TL1032808 8405-99-288-7194 60
TL1032809 8405-99-288-7195 61
TL1032810 8405-99-288-7196 62
TL1032811 8405-99-288-7197 63
TL1032812 8405-99-288-7198 64
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TABLE 7 – TL NUMBERS, NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND SIZE OF BERET
CONTINUED
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TABLE 7 – TL NUMBERS, NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND SIZE OF BERET
CONTINUED
The Royal Welsh - Khaki with Guards The Mercian Regiment - Khaki with
Green Flash Green Badge Flash
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TABLE 7 – TL NUMBERS, NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND SIZE OF BERET
CONTINUED
TL1033392 8405-99-571-3517 59
TL1033393 8405-99-571-3518 60
TL1033394 8405-99-571-3519 61
TL1033395 8405-99-571-3520 62
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TABLE 7 – TL NUMBERS, NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND SIZE OF BERET
CONTINUED
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TABLE 7 – TL NUMBERS, NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND SIZE OF BERET
CONTINUED
TL1034818 8405-99-974-2414 61
TL1034819 8405-99-974-2415 62
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TABLE 7 – TL NUMBERS, NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND SIZE OF BERET
CONTINUED
TL1035229 8405-99-976-0185 62
TL1035230 8405-99-976-0186 63
TL1035231 8405-99-976-0187 64
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TABLE 7 – TL NUMBERS, NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND SIZE OF BERET
CONTINUED
TL1035272 8405-99-976-0243 60
TL1035273 8405-99-976-0244 61
TL1035274 8405-99-976-0245 62
TL1035275 8405-99-976-0246 63
TL1035276 8405-99-976-0247 64
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TABLE 7 – TL NUMBERS, NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND SIZE OF BERET
CONTINUED
TL1035697 8405-99-978-8461 62
TL1035698 8405-99-978-8462 63
TL1035699 8405-99-978-8463 64
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TABLE 7 – TL NUMBERS, NATO STOCK NUMBERS AND SIZE OF BERET
CONTINUED
TL1035792 8405-99-978-9078 48
TL1035793 8405-99-978-9079 49
TL1035794 8405-99-978-9080 50
TL1035795 8405-99-978-9081 51
TL1035796 8405-99-978-9082 52
TL1035797 8405-99-978-9083 53
TL1035798 8405-99-978-9084 54
TL1035799 8405-99-978-9085 55
TL1035800 8405-99-978-9086 56
TL1035801 8405-99-978-9087 57
TL1035802 8405-99-978-9088 58
TL1035803 8405-99-978-9089 59
TL1035804 8405-99-978-9090 60
TL1035805 8405-99-978-9091 61
TL1035806 8405-99-978-9092 62
TL1035807 8405-99-978-9093 63
TL1035808 8405-99-978-9094 64
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METHOD OF TEST
BS 2471 BS EN 1773 BS EN 1049 Part 2
Mass per unit
Width Threads per width
length
g/m mm -
Min ±1 Min
Viscose 3.5 13 30
Cotton 3.0 13 45
METHOD OF TEST
BS EN 12127 BS EN 1773 BS EN 1049 Part 2
Mass per unit area Width
Thread count
g/m2 cm
Min Min Min
Warp Weft
80 140
27 23
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4. LABELLING REQUIREMENTS
Labels Colour Position
Identification and care label White Clearly marked on a label either sewn or
securely adhered to the centre of the crown
lining
Identification and care labels may be combined to produce one label
Identification Label
Item name, NATO stock number, size number, contract number, fibre content, date of
manufacture, statement for leather and broad arrow. The size number is to be 0.6cm
high.
Manufacturer Information
Under no circumstances should the contractors name, logo or trademark appear on any
form of labelling or bag
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Identification Label
NSN: 8405-99-122-3164*
Size: 51*
Contract No:
Care Instructions
BERET SHAPING
1. Immerse the beret alternately in
hand hot then cold water until
thoroughly soaked, taking care not
to wet the leather band
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