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Clothing Donation

Clothing & Textiles Research Journal


Volume 27 Number 3
July 2009 179-196
© 2009 International Textile & Apparel Association
10.1177/0887302X08327199
http://ctrj.sagepub.com
hosted at http://online.sagepub.com

Socially Responsible Consumer Behavior?


Exploring Used Clothing Donation Behavior

Jung E. Ha-Brookshire
University of Missouri, Columbia
Nancy N. Hodges
University of North Carolina at Greensboro

Abstract

Most research on socially responsible consumer behavior has focused on consumer


purchasing behavior, therefore, little is known about it during the product disposal stage. This
study sought an in-depth understanding of consumer disposal behavior in a used clothing
donation setting. An interpretive analysis revealed that the primary motivation for participants’
used clothing donation behavior was the need to create space in the closet for something new.
The threat of feelings of guilt played a significant role throughout the process prior to donation,
specifically in the decision whether to discard or donate a clothing item. Participants
experienced both utilitarian and hedonic values regarding their donation behavior, and these
values in turn impacted future donation intentions. A conceptual model based on the study
findings is proposed which integrates a Theory of Reasoned Action framework with a consumer
values perspective. Study implications and future research avenues are also discussed.

(Keywords) Apparel, Consumer, Decision-making, Disposal, Donation, Responsibility

Introduction buying criteria (Drumwright, 1994), or


estimating the effect of a firm’s socially
As consumption has increased in the responsible practices (Lichtenstein,
United States, the level of social Drumwright, & Braig, 2004). As more
consciousness on the part of consumers has importance has been placed on
also increased (Roberts, 1995). Research on understanding social responsibility for
the topic of social responsibility has consumer behavior, a socially responsible
primarily focused on firms’ strategies to consumer behavior (SRCB) research stream
meet growing consumer demands regarding has also developed. Areas include
societal issues. Findings often suggest best investigating consumer perceptions of CSR
practices for firms, and have led to a practices (Mohr, Webb, & Harris, 2001),
research stream on the topic of corporate cross-cultural studies of SRCB (Maignan,
social responsibility (CSR). CSR literature 2001), or empirical effects of a consumer
includes formulating socially responsible behavior model related to SRCB (Dickson,
marketing objectives (Sirgy & Lee, 1996), 2000).
evaluating a firm’s socially responsible

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Clothing Donation

Most studies on SRCB, however, Much research on social


have been centered on the purchase setting responsibility is found in business research.
of the consumption experience, reflecting Historically, a major debate within CSR
the importance of sales within the goals of research has been whether corporate
most firms. This purchase-oriented SRCB decision makers should pursue objectives
research stream has resulted in a critical gap other than economic profitability (Vibert,
in understanding of the overall consumption 2004). While research on CSR deals with
cycle. Apparel consumption in particular social responsibility as a matter of firm
includes a wide range of different strategy, consumer behavior researchers are
consumption stages, such as “acquiring, often focused on understanding socially
storing, using, maintaining, and discarding” responsible consumption behavior. Adapted
for each apparel item (Winakor, 1969, p. from Petkus and Woodruff’s (1992)
629). In this view, in addition to new definition of CSR, Mohr, Webb and Harris
clothing purchase, the recycling or donation (2001) defined socially responsible
of used clothing could be an important outlet consumer behavior (SRCB) as the behavior
for disposal and especially as part of socially of a consumer who bases his or her
responsible consumer behavior (Stephens, acquisition, usage, and disposition of
1985). However, little is known about products and services on a desire to
apparel donation behavior, despite the minimize or eliminate any destructive or
important role of disposal within the apparel harmful effects and to maximize the long-
consumption experience and the overall term beneficial impact on society. This
need to better understand SRCB. definition distinguished SRCB from CSR as
Addressing this critical gap, the it provided the consumer’s perspective on
present study explored consumer disposal social responsibility; however, it addressed
behavior in a used clothing donation setting only part of the whole consumption
that is typically considered socially experience, being concerned primarily with
responsible. Specifically, the study product or service acquisition, usage, and
examined apparel consumers’ motivations, disposition. Mohr and his colleagues’
intentions, and other underlying factors of definition of SRCB failed to include other
used clothing donation behavior to uncover important consumption stages that might
whether or not it is an act of social affect consumers’ future acquisition, usage,
responsibility. Given the fact that SRCB is and disposition, such as product information
a relatively new topic in the consumer search, storage, and post-disposal
behavior literature and little research has evaluations of products or services.
been conducted on consumers’ experiences Consequently, to fill this critical gap,
with clothing disposal, the study approached the present study extends Mohr and his
the topic from the consumer’s perspective as colleagues’ (2001) definition of SRCB to
donator. To do this, a qualitative approach include the whole consumption process from
to data collection and analysis was applied the pre-purchase to post-disposal stage, that
through the use of in-depth interviews and is, from product information search to post-
observation with consumers in a clothing disposal evaluation. Some consumers may
disposal setting. want to be socially responsible in a
particular stage of consumption, while
Literature Review others may exercise social responsibility
throughout all of the consumption stages.
Socially responsible consumer behavior Thus, this study defines SRCB as the

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behavior of a consumer basing decisions on much less popular than in other countries.
a desire to minimize or eliminate any Cross-cultural studies of SRCB in a
harmful effects and to maximize any purchase setting have also been popular as
beneficial impacts on society in one or more the study of cultural diversity within
consumption steps of the consumption consumer segments has deepened. Maignan
process. This consumption process includes (2001) and Maignan and Ferrell (2003)
product information search, acquisition, concluded that both French and German
usage, storage, disposal, and post-disposal consumers were significantly more willing
evaluation. A socially responsible consumer to actively support socially responsible
would try to avoid searching for, buying, businesses than U.S. consumers. Moreover,
and using products and services from French and German consumers were more
companies that may harm society, and concerned about businesses conforming to
instead, seek out products and services from established legal and ethical standards, while
companies that help society throughout the U.S. consumers were more concerned about
consumption experience (Mohr et al., 2001). corporate economic responsibility.
In addition, a socially responsible consumer Comparing U.S. consumers with Chinese
might influence other peoples’ purchase consumers, Shen and Dickson (2001) found
decisions through negative feedback from that consumers who more closely identified
the consumption experience of products or with U.S. culture were more accepting of
services provided by companies that do not unethical clothing consumption activities,
practice CSR. In this vein, CSR might be an such as changing price-tags on clothing or
important evaluative criterion influencing returning an evening dress after wearing it
SRCB. Additionally, a socially responsible for a special occasion, than were those who
consumer may consider both the more closely identified with Chinese culture.
environment and people as important to Although previous studies offer important
society; environmental responsibility and insights into SRCB, these purchase-oriented
social responsibility are therefore considered SRCB studies have often overlooked SRCB
to be part of SRCB. in a product disposal setting, a gap that
Despite the fact that consumers can needs to be addressed.
infuse social responsibility throughout the
consumption experience, most SRCB
research is centered on the purchase setting. Clothing consumption and SRCB
For example, in their study investigating the Clothing provides a unique
impact of CSR on consumer buying consumption experience for consumers.
behavior, Mohr and colleagues (2001) According to Winakor (1969), clothing
identified four groups of consumers—pre- consumption is different from food
contemplators, contemplators, the action consumption in that food disappears when it
group, and maintainers. Purchase behavior is eaten or consumed. Food can be eaten or
among these groups ranged from consumed only once, and once it is
unresponsive to highly responsive to CSR consumed, it cannot be stored or restored for
practices. Getzner and Grabner-Kauter further use. Clothing consumption differs
(2004) reported that a significant portion of from housing consumption in that the
consumers were willing to invest in “green inventory and usage of housing is constant
shares” (a sub-class of corporate socially and the acquisition and disposal of housing
responsible investment) even in Australia occurs relatively infrequently (Winakor,
where green investment is believed to be 1969). From this perspective, clothing

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consumption is much more complicated, non-profit organization operated by


providing a wider range of different stages volunteers and community donations], and
than that of food or housing. Furthermore, other religious organizations (Mitchell,
each stage of clothing consumption, from 2008). It is clear that consumers are
product information search, acquisition, engaged in recycling or donation of their
usage, storage, and disposal to post-disposal used clothing as part of the clothing
evaluation, is experienced on a regular basis consumption process. Despite the fact that
by everyone (Winakor, 1969). Although donation to such agencies has been
there are other products that may require popularly defined as a form of socially
similar consumption stages as clothing, responsible behavior, to date it has not been
clothing is unique in that it is consumed by thoroughly examined (Stephens, 1985). To
everyone and every day, unlike others. The address this significant gap in SRCB
unique nature of clothing consumption, research, this study explores the experiences
therefore, provides an excellent opportunity of individuals who have recently
to explore SRCB within different participated in used clothing donation to
consumption stages, including disposal and understand the motivations, intentions, and
post-disposal evaluation. other factors important to their donation
As with the predominant SRCB behavior and the donation decision-making
research stream, clothing research in the process.
area of consumer social responsibility has
focused on corporate and business practices, Methodology
and particularly practices related to labor.
Thus, the impact of this focus on human The purpose of this research was to
rights in the apparel and textile area has gain an in-depth understanding of consumer
been noticeable. For example, Nike, Inc. disposal behavior in a used clothing
has recently started to disclose the names donation setting from the perspective of
and locations of over 700 factories currently consumers who have recently donated used
producing its products as a way to illustrate clothing items. Therefore, the research
their fair labor practices (Rafter, 2005). design was interpretive in nature.
SRCB research in this context, however, is Interpretive inquiry is described as “a
still limited to consumers’ clothing purchase systematic search for deep understanding of
behavior, specifically responding to apparel the ways in which persons subjectively
firms’ socially responsible business experience the social world” (Hultgren,
activities. 1989, p. 41). One of several types of
The role of disposal in clothing qualitative inquiry, the interpretive tradition
consumption is large. It is reported that an aims to gain a deeper understanding of what
average person in the United States discards people experience in their everyday lives
67.9 pounds of used clothing and textiles, through language (Hultgren, 1989; van
and, collectively, Americans contribute two Manen, 1990). Researchers using an
quadrillion pounds of used clothing and interpretive approach believe that a
textiles to landfills each year (Mitchell, phenomenon can be understood by rich
2008). Millions of pounds of used clothing descriptions of the way one experiences the
and textiles are also reported to be donated world, and these descriptions are what make
yearly, either to family members or non- it possible for others to grasp the nature and
profit organizations, such as Salvation Army, significance of the phenomenon (van Manen,
Goodwill, REACH Caregivers [a faith-based, 1990).

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Clothing Donation

In order to obtain in-depth saturation, suggesting the interviews were


descriptions of participant experiences of sufficient for interpretive analysis and
their everyday world as experienced in a further interviews would have been unlikely
natural setting, in-depth interviews, a to produce additional new information. The
demographic questionnaire and observation particular donation site was selected because
were employed as methods. Language plays it is a nonprofit organization well known for
an important role in human understanding. having a societal-centered community
Gadamer (1975), inspired by Heidegger service focus, and providing education,
[1889-1976], argued that human experience training, and career counseling for
is formulated in and through language and, disadvantaged and disabled individuals
thus, an understanding of another person’s (Goodwill Industry International, Inc., 2006).
experience is realized through language. Therefore, it was believed that individuals
Therefore, the in-depth interview is a donating items at this site were inclined to
commonly used method in interpretive be socially responsible to some degree.
research to grasp the essence of a
phenomenon and reveal meanings of Table 1 Here
participant experiences (McCracken, 1988;
Wengraf, 2001). Observation is another Interviews lasted 25 to 35 minutes
primary tool to obtain data within an per participant. Upon receipt of Institutional
interpretive framework. As per Merriam Review Board approval, the interviews were
(1998), observations are useful for audio-taped with participant consent and
qualitative researchers because observations then transcribed for the purposes of data
take place in the natural setting where the analysis. Interviews were semi-structured
phenomenon occurs, and the data from focusing on the used clothing donation
observations represent first-hand contact experience specifically to explore
with the phenomenon. participants’ motivations, intentions, and
other underlying factors related to used
Data collection and analysis clothing donation. Examples of semi-
Two sample selection methods were structured interview questions were “when
used. First, eleven participants were you dispose of your used clothing, why do
selected through snowball sampling you consider donation instead of tossing it
(Biernacki & Waldorf, 1981; Valentine, into a garbage can?”, “do you feel
1993). Second, four participants were differently when you drop off your used
approached by one of the researchers at a clothing at a donation site as compared with
local donation site while in the process of tossing it into a garbage can?”, “what is
donating used clothing. In total, 15 important for you when you consider
individuals who had donated at least one donation sites?”, and “will you continue
item of used clothing in the past six months donating your used clothing, and if so, what
participated in the study (see Table 1 for will motivate you to do so?” Some of the
demographic information of the study participants’ responses were further probed
participants). While 15 participants may to obtain a deeper and clearer understanding
seem a relatively small number, a review of of the meaning of the specific experience
the transcribed interviews during and after (McCracken, 1988).
the interview process showed recycling of A questionnaire was used to collect
the emergent ideas mentioned by participants’ personal and demographic
participants (Spiggle, 1994). This indicates information such as age, gender, marital

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status, as well as occupation. In addition, 1994; Thompson, 1997). Interpretation


each participant was asked to list his or her began with the finest details of each
favorite donation sites, donation items, and interview transcript and moved to more
frequency of used clothing donations per general observations (Thompson, 1997).
year. This information provided a basic This process of going from the particular to
understanding of the participants (see Table the general was repeated several times by
1). Participants’ age ranged from 19 to 64; the first author until distinctive emergent
occupations included college student, themes were culled from the data
Information Technology engineer, and (Thompson, 1997). These themes were then
retiree; frequency of donation ranged from grouped into relevant categories on the basis
once or twice per year to every month. of general characteristics of theme essence
Although each had a preferred donation site, (Dutton & Dukerich, 1991). Finally, an
none of the participants were able to understanding of individual themes and the
articulate the site’s role relative to society. relationships among themes and theme
In addition to the interviews and categories occurred over time, with each
questionnaire, observations were also reading conducted by the authors including a
conducted by one of the researchers in the broader range of considerations.
drop-off area of the abovementioned
donation site. Observations took place on
two Saturdays during the springtime, at a
time when many people were in the process Interpretation
of spring cleaning. Participants and
donation site employees informed the Interpretation of the interview data,
researcher that weekends in spring are demographic profiles, and observations
typically the busiest, with used clothing indicated a range of consumer motivations,
donations increasing as a result of spring intentions, and other underlying factors
cleaning. Observations made at the associated with used clothing donation.
donation site were recorded as field notes. Within the interpretation, themes are
For example, the field notes indicated that grouped into five categories: (a) the primary
most donors seemed to be so much in a motivation for used clothing donation, (b)
hurry that they hardly agreed to participate the clothing selection process, (c) avoiding
in interviews sought by the researchers. the threat of guilt, (d) donation site selection,
When donors declined the interview and (e) values experienced from used
possibility, they unanimously expressed that clothing donation. The themes were
the act of used clothing behavior (dropping organized according to their respective
off at a donation site) was one of the chores points during the donation process, that is,
that they had to complete while they have before, during and after donation.
other important things to do. Therefore,
very few even stepped out of their cars to Prior to the donation
help unload their donations. Motivations for donation. The most
The transcribed interview data, prominent motivation for participants’ used
demographic questionnaire, and field notes clothing donation behavior was expressed,
were coded and then interpreted as one of the participants, QE put it, “to get
thematically and holistically to uncover the rid of stuff” during a “cleaning spree” to
meaning of used clothing donation as create closet space for new items. The
experienced by the 15 participants (Spiggle, timing of the interviews happened to

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coincide with spring break at local schools


and universities and a sudden climb in TR: I’ve never lived in a big house,
temperature as the season changed from you know, with massive amounts of
winter to spring. Both external events walk-in closets or whatever. So, I’ve
seemed to prompt participants to begin the always had certain amount of area.
task of cleaning out their closets. For BK, We were taught when we were
used clothing donation is an outcome of an younger that you can’t get anything
annual “closet inventory check,” a ritual new until you give something away.
conducted as part of her spring cleaning. If we would get a new toy, we had to
Instead of throwing her used clothing away, get rid of another toy. So, new
BK decides to donate it: clothes, I can validate my new
clothes by getting rid of clothes.
BK: I usually go through my clothes, You make room, you can have more.
I guess, I check my “closet
inventory.” When seasons change, I
usually switch out new things and Despite the public perception that
take out the winter clothes. Actually, donation of used clothing is a form of
when I’m putting up the winter socially responsible conduct (Goodwill
clothes and taking out the summer Industries, Inc., 2006; Stephens, 1985), none
clothes, I pull the winter clothes that of the participants mentioned that social
I won’t wear again. Again, the consciousness was the primary motivation
summer clothes, for the same reason. for their used clothing donation behavior.
It’s just the space issue, you know, For the participants, food or monetary
as far as the closet. I normally like donations were “real” donations that they
to donate items that I won’t use any felt ethically inclined to contribute, while a
more, instead of throwing them away. used clothing donation was not considered
“real.” Instead, used clothing donation was
something to be done to accomplish the
Closet space seemed to be an issue that the participants’ cleaning goals. Donations of
participants were constantly challenged by; food or money, according to participants,
lessons were learned throughout their lives were more society-oriented, stemming from
to create new closet space in order to acquire a genuine concern for people in need, thus
something new. QI and TR describe how considered acts of true altruism. In contrast,
closet cleaning gives justifications for used clothing donations for the participants
buying something new: were more self-oriented and less society-
oriented, and seemed to serve a utilitarian
QI: You get tired of what you have function. UX expresses that money
and you want something new. But donation is motivated by empathy and
you have so much that you feel bad compassion, different from her typical used
if you buy something new. There is clothing donation. TR sees significant
no place else to store it, so you give differences between “real charity” and used
away old stuff that you’re tired of clothing donation. As per her argument,
wearing. I only have so much closet dropping off used clothing at a local
space so, you know, I have to get rid donation center is not in itself an act of
of some of what I have in order to charity; instead, people who buy
have something new. merchandise from the local donation center

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are the ones making the contribution to that participants considered for used
society. That is, perhaps TR holds extremely clothing classification was the physical
high standards for social responsibility or condition of the item. Assessment of
charity; she does not see herself as a real physical condition seemed to be mainly
donator by dropping off a few bags of used subjective. IM explains that she would not
clothing: donate any clothing that she would not wear
as she is convinced that no one else would
UX: While my money donation to want it. Her evaluation does not take into
Red Cross after Katrina, that was consideration how other people might
totally different. That was more evaluate the physical condition of that
likely, you know, stepping out of my clothing item. Instead, she determines what
normal routine, and even be willing is wearable and what is not wearable, and if
to be even inconvenient because the clothing is in bad shape or unwearable,
there was a definite need for it. And then it would be thrown away:
also just feeling empathy and
compassion, while clothing donation IM: I won’t give away anything that
is not. I wouldn’t wear still. I will never
give away something just beat up or
TR: Clothing donation, to me, is not ragged, I will just throw it away at
donation. Goodwill [non-profit that point. For me, it must be in
organization] is a place to drop off good condition if I wanted to give it
my old stuff. What they do with it to somebody. If it’s not wearable by
ends up being a donation, but it’s not me, then it won’t be wearable by
MY donation. It’s a donation of others. I wouldn’t want anyone to
someone else who buys it. I see the wear something that I wouldn’t wear
people that are buying it and putting personally.
the money towards it, that’s charity
to me. That’s where I see it as In addition to the physical condition of
charity. If I wish to give a gift, I clothing, participants felt strongly that
don’t want it to be something used. I certain types of clothing should not be
think a gift should be something nice donated, and particularly underwear. As QI
and new. So, it’s the same way when explains, underwear is too intimate to
I am making a donation, it’s a gift; consider giving away for other people to
it’s something that is supposed to be use:
special. It’s not supposed to be
something that I’m just not using any QI: One thing I never, never get rid
more. of is... I do not donate underwear. I
feel very specific. No, I don’t. I
Selecting what to donate. Once wore them out. When they’re done,
closet cleaning had begun, the study I throw them away. I have never
participants explained the steps they go donated my underwear because that
through, including inspecting each item in is personal. It’s too close.
the closet, evaluating the state of the item,
and classifying it into one of two groups: Those items deemed to be in good
those “to be kept” and those “to be condition were further divided into two
given/thrown away.” The very first criterion groups: items with high sentimental value
and items with little, if any, sentimental
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value. Clothing with high sentimental value “my” sweater, is an important part of his
was often kept by the participants until the identity and, for EF, this sweater is one of
sentimental attachment became diluted with the valuable objects “that reflect and shape
time. Clothing with little or no sentimental the owner’s self” (Csikszentmihalyi &
value was deemed suitable for donation. Roachberg-Halton, 1981, p. 17):
During this classification process,
participants unanimously expressed the idea EF: I have a sweater that my great
that some clothing items never lose their uncle, who passed away, gave me.
sentimental value; therefore, they would He gave me when I was about 3
never be disposed of even if they became years old and I still have that sweater
unwearable. Such clothes were physical and I’m 19 years old. I would never
objects of their personal history. As MQ give that sweater up because it’s just
describes, her soccer jerseys are her “own that much personal to me. I won’t
personal scrap books” that define part of her even give that to my mom. That’s
identity. She thinks fondly about this period MY sweater. So, you know, in that
in her life, and sees her jerseys as important sense, clothing is very personal to
tools to reflect on that period: me.

MQ: I played soccer for ten years. Avoiding feelings of guilt. Although
So I have all my old jerseys and I participants’ process of used clothing
still have my old captain gowns classification expedited closet cleaning,
[gowns that only the captain of the most mentioned that it was not an easy task.
soccer team was allowed to wear] Two main challenges surfaced from the
that we were able to keep. I would study data. First, the participants often
keep it even if I won’t wear it. You spoke of feelings of anxiety during the
know, those types of clothing classification process and
things…memory. It’s like my own uncertainty about whether they were making
personal scrap book. I don’t know the right decision to keep or to
when I’ll give that up, I don’t think discard/donate a particular item. The
so because it’s just, it’s just… When participants appeared to experience mixed
I look at them, awwww... I love feelings in that they often thought that they
soccer to this day, I watch it all the would feel guilty if they simply discarded
time, and it’s still a big part of my clothing that was in good condition or had
life, even though I don’t play it. It sentimental value. Yet, they also felt guilty
doesn’t matter if they are still fitting for letting unused or seldom worn clothing
or not, I will just keep them. items take up closet space. QE describes
this conundrum:

For others, clothing of the past, while QE: I’m kind of visionary; I might
unwearable today, acted as a significant not like it now but maybe I can do
reminder of close relationships. In the case something with it. Then, again, I
of EF, the sweater that he received from his never end up wearing it again or
great uncle 16 years ago, when he was 3 having something to do with it. But
years old, is the only physical object that my mind just thinks that way, maybe,
still connects him to his uncle whom he I can do something with it or wear it
cannot see again. This sweater, expressed as again. Then, finally, I reason with it

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and just get rid of it, just because I


don’t have any more room and it is
simply taking up the space while it Participants’ experiences prior to
can be used by other people who are used clothing donation provide the basis for
in need. (…) The moment I throw it a conceptual model illustrating the decision-
in the bag, it’s a hard decision for me. making process (Figure 1). Based on the
I can’t make decisions. It’s hard for themes that emerged in responses describing
me to make decisions. That would the pre-donation period, Figure 1 depicts the
probably make me feel anxious. typical process as explained by the
participants, beginning with cleaning the
A second source of guilt for the closet and ending with either discarding,
participants occurred when they realized keeping, or donating items. Anxiety and
how much clothing they owned that they guilt emerged as important factors guiding
never wore. UX’s response involves clear the decision-making process. Wearability of
acknowledgement of the unnecessary waste items, along with the level of sentimental
created by purchases she made that could value associated with them surfaced as
have been prevented, and acknowledgement important considerations during the
that the feelings of guilt increase when she decision-making process.
realizes that she did not learn from previous
closet cleaning experiences. Interestingly, Figure 1 Here
however, according to UX, the threat of During and after used clothing donation
feelings of guilt, while substantial, is not Donation site selection. Once
strong enough to stop her from making finished with closet cleaning, it was
similar purchase decisions in the future: common for the participants to consider
several outlets for donation. Close family
UX: I just shake my head, thinking members and friends were most
about the waste. Waste! Just waste! participants’ first choice for their used
For example, something that I didn’t clothing. However, they found it difficult to
need in the first place, and that do so, given the issue of size. Therefore, the
money could have been used toward majority of used clothing items were
something more important. I got donated and donations were made at a
bills. I could have paid bills with it. variety of donation sites. In selecting
I could have cleaned up my credit, donation sites, the participants clearly
savings, or anything. It’s just wasted expressed that the convenience of the site
on all these material things. And it was the most important factor, expressing
just reiterates what I’m already doing little concern about what each donation site
and I get to see here yet another would do with donated items. The location,
example! Look at this junk! It operating hours, parking space, and
makes you feel bad, but only availability of employees at donation sites
temporarily, and then look what were described as specific examples of
happened. You know, it’s just convenience sought by participants. For
waste! Wasteful! Did I learn a instance, UX finds no reason to make an
lesson from it? Obviously I did not. extra effort to donate as part of a church
Because the very next day, I will be program because convenience of drop-off is
like, hmmm, what’s my next feel- the most important factor for her:
good purchase? Argh….

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UX: My church actually has an From the utilitarian value perspective,


urban outreach where they take by donating their used clothing, the
clothes in, but the only reason I don’t participants found that they were greatly
give it to my church, even though I relieved that they had accomplished their
go there? Because it’s very original goal for closet cleaning: creating
inconvenient. It’s VERY room in the closet for future purchases.
inconvenient. There is only one Interestingly, none of the participants
place where you can take your stuff expressed that receiving a tax deduction was
to. It’s not like you can drop it off at an important benefit of used clothing
church. When you happened to be donation. From the hedonic value
there, you have to go to a separate perspective, the participants shared that they
place only during a certain time. If “felt better” after making their used clothing
you have a big thing, you have to donations. Hedonic values appeared to be
bring it all in, I mean, forget it. Why primarily centered on personal pleasure or
would I want to go through all that enjoyment from diminishing the threat of
when I can just drop it off here, here, guilt, whether it was guilt caused by
here, here. So, that’s one thing that wasteful past purchase behavior or because
the Goodwill non-profit donation little worn items were taking up closet space.
organization has accomplished by For participants, satisfaction derived from
making it convenient to drop your helping society by donating used clothing
stuff off. Whenever you happen to seemed less important than removing the
be out running errands or whatever, threat of guilt. Thus, both utilitarian and
just throw it in your trunk, eventually hedonic values gained from used clothing
you’re gonna see a place where you donation seemed more self-oriented than
can drop it. socially-oriented. Again, this is in contrast
to public perception (Goodwill Industries,
Values experienced from used Inc., 2006; Stephens, 1985). For example,
clothing donation. In general, the consumer UX describes how her used clothing
behavior literature suggests that consumers donation is done for reasons pertaining to
experience two types of values from the self rather than society:
product/service consumption: (a) hedonic
and (b) utilitarian (Solomon, 2004). Hedonic UX: The main thing I feel is that I
value refers to the value derived from just get it out of the house. You
pleasurable experiences and utilitarian value know, because if I’m constantly
refers to the value derived from efficient bringing something new into the
(economic) experiences (Carpenter, Moore, house, something’s gotta go. So it
& Fairhurst, 2005). Consumers are thought may as well go to someone who’s
to seek utilitarian value in a task-oriented, gonna do something with it [drop it
rational manner, while seeking hedonic off at donation sites]…..They’re
value from the emotional or psychological [donation sites] helping ME out.
facets of an experience (Blackwell, Miniard, Instead of I’m helping society,
& Engel, 2000; Holbrook & Hirschman, society’s helping me out!
1982). In this study, participants seemed to Interviewer: The donation sites
experience both types of values as a result of provide the place for your old clothes
their donation behavior. that you don’t know what to do with!

11
Clothing Donation

UX: Exactly! So, it’s kind of selfish, Action (TRA) and a consumer values
isn’t it? perspective were deemed appropriate to be
compared with the study findings. First,
TRA is one of the theories explaining many
Participants unanimously different aspects of consumers’ willful
emphasized that they would continue to behaviors, including used clothing donation.
donate their used clothing as long as they The theory explains that during the process
would purchase more new clothing. Despite of deliberation to action, a person forms
many other alternatives to donation, it intentions to engage in a certain behavior.
seemed that used clothing donation was a Intentions are affected by an individual’s
vital part of the whole consumption cycle. attitude toward the behavior (the personal
Thus, without making future donations, the factor) and subjective norms (the social
participants would not be able to repeat the factor) and these intentions, capturing the
consumption experience. For instance, motivational factors of behavior, are then
relieved of the anxiety caused by too many believed to be translated into action when
unworn clothing items and excited by the the appropriate time and opportunity comes.
opportunity to buy something new, QI Thus, intentions are expected to be highly
experiences both utilitarian and hedonic correlated with a person’s volitional, willful
values from her used clothing donation, behavior. Second, values that consumers
which allow her to continue the cycle of experience by consuming products or
buying, wearing, and disposing clothing: services were also compared with the study
findings, as they were found to surface in
QI: Clothing donation is just simply participants’ intentions regarding used
part of my life. Whatever they clothing donations.
[donation sites] do with my clothes The analysis revealed that
doesn’t really change my mind. It’s participants’ intention to donate instead of
just a routine that I go through every discard used clothing was primarily
year to thin out my oversupply. motivated by the need to clean out the closet,
Once I clean it out enough, then I and, in turn, provided a means to avoid the
don’t really have to worry about it threat of feeling guilty about their
any more. It just gives me another consumption behavior. Outcomes of
opportunity to go out and shop. (…) donation behavior offered both utilitarian
I would continue to donate my and hedonic values to the study participants,
clothes because I would continue to by providing more closet space and
buy new ones, and I would continue alleviating feelings of guilt largely caused
to clean out my closet. Clothing by purchasing clothing that was rarely worn,
donation is the best way to clean out which in turn took up space in the closet.
my closet. These values, in turn, positively reinforced
participants’ intentions to make future
Discussion donations. Despite many non-profit
organizations’ attempts to emphasize the
The findings from interpretive social responsibility component of used
analysis often provide an important clothing donation, social responsibility
opportunity to evaluate extant theories or emerged as a weak motivation for used
propose a new theory to explain a specific clothing donation. In contrast to the TRA,
reality in query (Wengraf, 2001). Ajzen and the participants’ attitudes toward the
Fishbein’s (1980) Theory of Reasoned
12
Clothing Donation

donation behavior and social pressures interpretive methods, considered appropriate


regarding ethical consumption practices for exploring a phenomenon in-depth
were not found to be important to (Wengref, 2001). Interpretation of the study
participants’ intentions to donate used data revealed five theme categories—
clothing. Positive attitudes and social primary motivations for used clothing
pressure seemed more strongly related to donation, the clothing selection process,
money or food donations seen as “real avoiding the threat of guilt, donation site
charity” by the study participants. selection, and values experienced from used
Participants’ evaluations of the convenience clothing donation. Findings were then
of services available at donation sites, such further discussed to evaluate the Theory of
as easy access to drop-off, were more Reasoned Action as well as a consumer
important to their used clothing donation values perspective. This approach to
behavior, and specifically when executing interpretation helped illuminate the role of
the actual donation. social responsibility within the donation
In sum, the study findings were decision-making process.
partially supportive for TRA. The In this study, used clothing donation
relationship between used clothing donation was primarily initiated by the participants’
intention and donation behavior was utilitarian desire to create more closet space.
consistent with the theory. The role of A “cleaning spree” or “spring cleaning”
consumer attitudes and social pressure, were the terms most often used by the
however, did not appear to have a strong participants to explain the first step in the
association with donors’ intention as TRA used clothing donation process. Once
suggests. The findings also supported a having achieved this goal, the classification
consumer value perspective as participants of used clothing took place based on the
indicated those values impacted their criteria of physical condition of the clothing
donation intentions and behavior. Figure 2 and the degree of sentimental meaning that
provides a conceptual model of used that item provided. While clothes in poor
clothing donation behavior based on the condition were not deemed suitable for
study findings, integrating a TRA donation, clothes in good condition were
framework with a consumer values then reassessed and categorized into one of
perspective. two groups: items with sentimental meaning
and items without sentimental meaning.
Figure 2 Here This classification process required a
constant back and forth between
Conclusions and Implications consideration of an item’s sentimental value
and its level of use, causing the participants
In response to growing interest in some anxiety. At a deeper level, the
socially responsible consumer behavior, this participants indicated that they suffer from
study sought to obtain an in-depth feelings of guilt due either to not wearing an
understanding of consumer behavior in a item enough or to past purchase mistakes.
clothing disposal setting, and particularly However, once a donation decision is made
with regard to used clothing donation and the clothing items are dropped off at
behavior. Because of the dearth of research donation sites, the participants no longer
in used clothing donation behavior, experienced either anxiety or guilt. As
particularly investigating various noted by the participants, this freedom from
perspectives of donors, the study applied guilty feelings (hedonic values) as well as

13
Clothing Donation

more closet space (utilitarian values) linked to acquisition. An investigation of


positively impacted their intentions to make consumer behavior in a disposal setting thus
donations of used clothing in the future. improves our understanding of the broader
Finally, the convenience of donation sites context of the overall consumption
emerged to be most critical criterion when experience. Second, the study results raised
executing the act of donation, and in this the issue of whether or not used clothing
case, dropping off used clothing. donation is an act of social responsibility.
Contrary to popular perception of The findings suggested a possible gap
used clothing donation as socially between how non-profit organizations
responsible behavior (Goodwill Industries, describe the act of used clothing donation
Inc., 2006; Stephens, 1985), social and how consumers perceive such behavior.
consciousness had little, if any, impact on Third, although the findings were partially
used clothing donation decision-making for supportive, the study illustrated how Ajzen
the participants in this study. Instead, used and Fishbein’s (1980) Theory of Reasoned
clothing donation was just one part of the Action may be useful for disposal and post-
entire clothing consumption process, one disposal behavior research. Historically,
that created space for future clothing most research within a TRA framework has
purchases. Indeed, without disposal of used focused on the purchase stage but the
clothing items, new clothing items could not present study applied it within post-purchase
be purchased, and, therefore, the consumption stages. In addition, the study
consumption cycle could not continue. also pointed to the need for further
Although social responsibility may impact integration of consumer values (both
consumers’ decision-making in the process utilitarian and hedonic) within the TRA and
of used clothing disposal, according to the for expanding it in such a way that it could
participants, their donation decisions had be used to predict used clothing donation
little influence on their desire to minimize or behavior. Fourth, the study illuminated the
eliminate any harmful and maximize any process that consumers follow to classify
beneficial effects on society. Consequently, clothing for donation and highlighted the
when viewed through the lens of our current role of guilt within this process.
definition of SRCB, used clothing donation Broad application of the
would not be considered a socially interpretation presented here should be done
responsible behavior by some consumers. with caution due to the small participant
The study made several important sample and specific donation site selected.
contributions to consumer behavior research. Further study is needed to apply findings to
First, this study addressed gaps in the a larger population or across donation sites
consumer behavior literature by providing and geographical areas, as well as to
insight into the used clothing disposal understand the profile of used clothing
process and the underlying factors donors in general. However, the present
associated with it. The disposal stage is study does have important implications for
often overlooked in consumer research as it non-profit organizations whose main goal is
makes an indirect impact on consumers’ to solicit used clothing donations. Results
purchase decision. The study findings, indicate that in contrast to donations made
however, clearly show that consumers for disaster relief purposes, used clothing
struggle with limited closet space, donated after closet cleaning or spring
preventing them from future product cleaning is not primarily motivated by the
acquisition; therefore, disposal is directly need to act in a socially responsible manner.

14
Clothing Donation

In fact, some participants did not even could improve our understanding of clothing
consider used clothing donations to be “real disposal behavior and provide practical
charity” in comparison with donations of implications for non-profit organizations
food or money. To address this issue, non- that are dependent upon regular donations of
profit organizations may want to distinguish used clothing by consumers. Third, further
used clothing donation from food or research is needed that would clarify why
monetary donation and explain the uniquely consumers think food or money donations
important role of used clothing donations in constitute “real charity” while dismissing
helping society. The more consumers the charitable value of used clothing
understand the importance of used clothing donations. Fourth, today’s consumers have
to these non-profit organizations, the more multiple potential agencies to choose from
motivated they may be to seek out such when donating used clothing, further
locations for clothing donation. Second, research on factors of consumer donation
results indicate that the participants site selection could help such agencies find
overwhelmingly considered the convenience ways to promote their social service mission,
of a donation site to be more important than and in turn, to create awareness among
its particular charity mission. This finding consumers as to how their donations of used
implies that today’s consumers have little clothing are ultimately acts of social
time to spend on making donation decisions, responsibility.
and, in turn, on selecting a donation site.
Non-profit organizations may want to
consider how to adjust their accessibility References
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Clothing Donation

Figure 1. Consumers’ Used Clothing Classification Process Prior to Donation 1

Clothes Weak guilt Discard


in bad shape
Primary
motivation
Closet Constant
cleaning anxiety
High Further
Strong guilt
sentimental possession
value
Clothes
in good shape
Weaker guilt

Low
Weak guilt Possible
sentimental
donation
value

1
From “Exploring Motivations, Intentions, and Behavior of Socially Responsible Consumption in a Clothing
Disposal Setting” by Ha and Nelson Hodges, 2006, International Textiles and Apparel Association Proceedings, 63.
Copyright by the International Textiles & Association, Inc. Adapted with permission of the authors.

18
Clothing Donation

Figure 2. Proposed Conceptual Model for Used Clothing Donation Behavior

Utilitarian Hedonic value Social


value Feeling better by responsibility
More space in no more guilt value
the closet

Consumer value
Consumer
perspective value gain

Attitude toward
donation
behavior Clothing donation Clothing
Intentions To avoid the donation
Motivated by threat of guilt behavior
closet cleaning
Social pressure
re ethical To select
consumption donation sites

Theory of reasoned action Convenience of


perspective (Ajzen & Fishbein, 1980) donation

Strong relationship
Weak or no relationship (Further research is suggested.)

2
Clothing Donation

Table 1. Characteristics of the Participants

Participant1 Age Gender Marital Occupation Frequency of Donation


Status Donation Locations
(per year)

BH 24 Female Married Administrative 4 Goodwill, Churches


Assistant

MQ 20 Female Single College 3-4 Goodwill, Churches,


Student Fire Departments

UX 34 Female Single/ Sales Associate 10-12 Goodwill


Divorced

CG 28 Female Single Administrative 6-8 Salvation Army,


Assistant Friends, Churches

EF 19 Male Single College 4-6 Salvation Army,


Student Goodwill

QI 53 Female Divorced IT Engineer 2-3 Salvation Army,


Goodwill, Churches

TR 27 Female Single IT Associate 6-7 Goodwill, Churches

IM 29 Female Married Graduate 10-12 Relatives, Friends,


Student Goodwill

BM 21 Female Single College 3-4 Goodwill, Salvation


Student Army

DX 33 Female Married Small Business 8-10 Salvation Army


Owner

DT 20 Female Single College 2-3 REACH Caregivers


Student (A faith-based, non-
profit organization)

NL 22 Female Single College 3-4 Shelters, Goodwill


Student

LH 21 Female Single College 3-4 Goodwill, Thrift


Student Stores, Friends

QE 21 Female Single College 2-4 Goodwill


Student

NC 64 Female Married Retiree 1-2 Salvation Army

Note. 1 Reference to each participant is indicated by initials of a pseudonym.

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