“Boosting your skin natural

communication system”
About Sang-Moon, Kang
• obtained my master degree in Biotechnology from Korea
University Graduate School
• Biochemistry, Bioengineering, and Stem Cell Research and
numerous SCI thesis presentations (stem cells, PNAS etc.) at
academic and national research institutes
• Developing cosmetics materials, discovering an efficacy
evaluation system, and carrying out basic research on
dermatology in the corporate sector
• joined A&PEP since 2014. As a director of Research, I’m
responsible for research on peptides, research planning and
also National Assignment*.
• Developed more than 10 patents for A&PEP’s products and
published 3 SCI papers, made 2 presentations by International
Federation of Societies of Cosmetics Chemists (IFSCC)

National Assignment* : Government, University & Company R&D center often collaborate special project. This will
be eliminated first if there is no technical capability, and companies that have performed national tasks due to the
high competition rate are considered to be highly reliable internationally.
INDEX
1. About Sang-Moon, Kang
2. About A&PEP
3. What is peptide?
4. Why do we need to use A&PEP's Peptides?
5. Introduction of A&PEP’s Product
- ApepAHP-5(0.05%), TranEX-1, BerryPEP, Moisturing MAX
About A&PEP
Separated from Hyundai Pharm Central
Research Center.
A subsidiary of Hyundai Pharm Co., Ltd.
Specialized in peptides.
 Manufacturing and developing bulk
peptide for drug substances and for
cosmetics.
 Manufacturing and developing
fermentation raw materials for cosmetics
 About A&PEP
Our organization Director.
Sang Moon, Kang
Director.
Gingwehn, Hong CEO
Board of
audit Directors

Management support Production research

R&D Center
headquarters headquarters advice
Management Production Development
team team 1 team 1
Production Development
Sales marketing
team 2 team 2
Purchasing and Manager
QC/QA
Shipping Team Daniel, Kim
Our Flat-form Technology
NEW Technology, High Performance, Natural Ingredient

PEPTIDE Technology FERMENT Technology

Liposome New Strain

encapsulation Development

Multi, High
New Functional Natural, functional
Functional
Ingredient New Ferments
New peptide

Proprietary High performance

Peptide synthesis Ferment technology
technology
A & PEP`s Skin Science - advantage
Molecular Biology Artificial skin Replacement of
based Efficacy test building Animal test
A & PEP`s Skin Science – Advantage
Skin penetration test assay 3D molecular Modeling
Cosmetic Approach

Development of High performance Products by Skin science

Several product of order made

Clean production environment

product development By
skin science
Research of the
pharmaceutical field

Molecular biology based

No animal testing
Cell cytotoxicity testing
Human body stimulation
experiment
What is peptide?
 What is peptide?

Lysine

Histidine

Glycine

Skin Collagen Collagen molecules GHK Amino acids

fiber = Protein = peptide
= Macromolecule

PROTEIN PEPTIDE AMINO ACID

1. Biological material connected by amino acid bonds. Constituent of all proteins

2. Protein is one of the four major components of living organisms and is involved in major
phenomena in living organisms.
3. That is, it sends a signal to each skin substance to activate it like skin regeneration, etc.
 20 Amino acids

• There are 20 amino acids with traits of

tragedy, polarity, mountain castle and
basicity in nature.
• Characteristics of substances are
determined based on what amino acids
comprise proteins and peptides.
Peptides, Peptide Bond

Peptide is a polymer in which amino acids are linked through peptide bonds
Peptide systhesis – Protecting group

No protecting group
O O O O
Dehydration H
H2N CH C OH + H2N CH C OH H2N CH C N CH C OH
R1 R2 R2 R2

AA1 AA2 AA2 AA2

O O
H
H2N CH C N CH C OH
protecting group R1 R1
AA1 AA1
O O
H2N CH C OH + H2N CH C OH
O O
R1 R2 H
25% Reaction
H2N CH C N CH C OH
AA1 AA2
R1 R2
AA1 AA2
Dehydration
O O
OO H
H H2N CH C N CH C OH
H2N CH C N CH C OH
100% Reaction !!!
R2 R1
R1 R2 AA2 AA1
AA1 AA2
Peptide systhesis – Protecting group
O O
H2N CH C OH H2N CH C OH
R1 R2

i : Protecting i
O O
P1 H2N CH C OH H2N CH C OH P2
R1 R2

ii : Coupling
O O
H
P1 H2N CH C N CH C OH P2
R1 R2

iii : Deprotecting
O O
H
H2N CH C N CH C OH
R1 R2
Why do we need to use Peptides?
Why do we need to use Peptides?

Safety It is a biocompatible substance, easily decomposed after

expressing its efficacy and it a low-irritant, non-toxic substance.

Validity It is a low molecular weight, highly absorbable and bio-

derived substance, and it has high physiological activity
in the skin.

Stability Undenaturation, non-oxidation

Certainty It has a clear mechanism of activation, is controllable and is free

to use.

Universality It has a long history of use, and many hydrolyzed peptides have
been widely used for various cosmetics.
Why do we need to use A&PEP's Peptides?
Why do we need to use A&PEP's Peptides?
종류 장단점 내용

Strength Has been used for a long time; low price

Boc
Weakness Poor protection; high side-reaction; difficult to composite long sequence of peptide

Strength Currently the most used; safe due to cleavage using the base
Fmoc
Weakness High price; low solubility; high racemization

Strength Low price; high solubility; little racemization

NSC
Weakness There are not many examples applied as a new protecting group.

Possesses NSC-related original technology

- Literature : 13 NSC-related papers, including C. Carreño, M.E.Méndez, Y.-D.Kim, H.-
J.Kim, S.A.Kates, D. Andreu, F.Albericio “ Nsc and Fmoc Nα-amino protection for solid-
phase peptide synthesis : a parallel study“ J. Peptide Res(2000)56,63-69
- Patent : 9 patents, including PCT KR96/00012 /Nα-2-(4- Nitrophenylsulfonyl)
ethoxycarbonyl-Amino Acids (protected as an international substance patent)

Synthesizes high yield and high purity product by establishing NSC protection peptide
production process.
- High purity: 95% or more of the purity of the launched product
- Mass production is possible by synthesizing in liquid form: possible to product in kg ->
secures price competitiveness
- Residual solvent not detected: No adverse effects such as off-odor or skin irritation due
to residual solvent -> secures high quality
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
TranEX-1
INCI Name : Tranexamoyl Dipeptide-23

 Vitamin-peptide in which Tranexamic acid, which has a whitening effect, is introduced onto
N-terminal of Dipeptide by synthesis.
 Tranexamic acid is an ingredient which pharmacologically has anti-inflammatory/anti-
allergic and hemostatic effects. In addition, it is a functional whitening agent, which has been
found to have an excellent effect in the treatment of freckles for skin and has recently
increased in use.
 Peptides play a role in doubling the whitening effect.
Function: whitening
Application : Whitening, improving skin tone

Content 1000ppm (0.1%) pH 4.0 ~ 6.0

Appearance Clear to Slightly Hazy Liquid Specific Gravity 0.98 - 1.10

Odor Characteristic Preservative Free

Recommended
Purity By HPLC > 95 % 3-7%
Use level
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
TranEX-1 Mechanism - Whitening
Tranexamic acid has a similar structure to melanin and acts as a competitive inhibitor,
inhibiting the activity of Tyrosinase.

TranexamicInhibit
acid inhibit
Tyrosinase activation
Tyrosinase activation.
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
TranEX-1 Mechanism - Dark Circle
Tranexamic acid inhibits the activity of kallikrein (KK) and inhibits the expansion of blood
vessels, thereby improving dark circles.
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
TranEX-1 Cell Toxicity test
TranEX-1 showed no toxicity in the applied dosage.

120 120

100 100

80 80

60 TXA-Dipeptide
TranEX-1 1 60 TXA-Dipeptide
TranEX-1 1
TXA-Dipeptide
TranEX-2 2 TXA-Dipeptide
TranEX-2 2
40 40

20 20

0 0
1000 500 250 125 62.5 31.3 1000 500 250 125 62.5 31.3

HACAT 3T3 cells

cells

Reference
- Tested by Anpep labatory
 Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
TranEX-1 Efficacy Test (qRT - PCR)
TranEX-1 showed no toxicity in the applied dosage. 100
90
80
70
60
50 Cycle 20
40 Cycle 30
30 Cycle 40
20
10
TranEX-1 TranEX-2
0
0.1 0.05 0.1 0.05
(+)control (-)control TranEX-1
TXA-dipeptide1 TranEX-2
TXA-dipeptide2

It is shown that MITF, which is involved in the melanogenesis,

is suppressed to 62.19% based on 20 cycles.

Note.
qRT PCR (quantitative Real time PCRA test that enables fast, simple and accurate quantitation by monitoring the increase in PRC amplified
fragments in real time
GAPDH (Glyceraldehyde 3-phosphate dehydrogenase): A kind of protein, used as a control to correct the results in the test
 Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
TranEX-1 Clinical Test
- Age of the clinical trial subjects
- 30s to 50s

- Part for the clinical trial

- Whole face, freckle zone

- Period and method of the clinical trial

(1) Used more than 5 times a week for 4 to 8 weeks.

(2) Used 7 times a week depending on the skin age and the range of
the concentration of freckles.
(3) Used a sunscreen product during the clinical period
 Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
TranEX-1 Clinical Test
- Whitening improvement rate compared with control group: 235.9%
30
• Age of the clinical trial subjects : 30s to 50s
25

• Clinical subject : Improving dark circles and

20

freckles TranEX-1
TXA-Dipeptide
15
TXA
Control
• Clinical period : Change
4 to 8 %weeks (repeated
of melanin indexa study)
0 week 2 week 4 week 6 week 8 week 10
TranEX-1 0 8.1 13.2 19 26.9
TXA 0 6.5 8.2 9.8 11.4
Control 0 0.7 2.8 4.8 6.6 5
a
[(M0-Mw)/M0] × 100
M0: Melanin index of 0 week, before using test cream
0
Mw: Melanin index of W(2~8 week respectively)
0 week 2 week 4 week 6 week 8 week
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
TranEX-1 Clinical Test

0 week 4 week 8 week

Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
TranEX-1 Clinical Test

0 week 4 week 8 week

Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
TranEX-1 Awarded the grand prize for the Best Patent Products
in 2017. (한국일보 게재)
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
BerryPEP
INCI Name : Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Lactobacillus/Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate
Scientific name Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer

Kingdom Plantae

Division Anthophyta

Class Dicotyledoneae

Order Umbelliferae

Distribution area Korea, China, Russia

It is native to an area ranging from 30° to 48° Nort

h latitude, and native to three areas; Korea (33.7° t
Habitat/Home
o 43.21°), Manchuria (43° to 47°) in China, and the
Siberian Maritime Territory (40° to 48°).

Size Height 60cm

Korean ginseng is called Goryeo (Korean) ginseng

and written in ‘蔘’.
Classification of domesti
c varieties and overseas Foreign ginseng is written into ‘參’. For example, A
varieties merican ginseng (Panax quinquefolium,花旗參), Jap
anese ginseng (Panax japonicum, 東洋參), Chinese
ginseng (Panax notoginseng, 關東參)

Content 100% pH 5.5 ~ 7.5

Appearance Clear yellowsh Liquid Specific Gravity 0.98 - 1.20

Odor Characteristic Preservative Free

Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
BerryPEP
Ginseng Berry
Keywords “Fruit of the youngest time”, “only once”, “rarity”, “ginsenoside”, “modern elixir plant”
 A product made by separating and fermenting peptide,
a functional ingredient, from Ginseng Berry
 Ginseng Berry, which is borne only once every four years,
is rich in essential nutrients such as saponin and peptides.
 Ginseng contains about two to three times more active
ingredients in its fruits than the roots.
 Developed as a low-irritating material specialized in
various cosmetic formulations by multiplying the efficacy
by fermenting highly functional lactic acid bacteria.
A product that is especially effective in anti-wrinkle and
anti-aging and that can be applied to any formulation
Application : Anti-Oxidant, Anti-aging
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
BerryPEP : Cell regeneration
Results: BerryPPEP is artificially scared and rapidly recovered (reduced free space) depending on

concentration when processing skin cells (HACAT, Keratinocyte)

control 5% 10% 20%

0 hr
100% 100% 100% 100%

12 hr

83% 79.3% 65.3% 51.3%

24 hr
61.8% 55.5% 47.5% 32.5%
 Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
BerryPEP : Reference
Effects of Korean ginseng berry on skin antipigmentation and
antiaging via FoxO3a activation
J Ginseng Res 2017;41:277e283

GR: Ginseng Root

GB: Ginseng Berry
SYR:Syringaresinol

Fig. 3. Ginseng components have antioxidative activities. Ginseng root, ginseng berry, and syringaresinol have DPPH radical-scavenging activity (A) and
H2O2 scavenging activity
(B). Data are presented are the mean SD. * p < 0.05 by two-tailed Student t test.
(해설) Fig. 3. 인삼성분은 산화방지 기능이 있다. 인삼뿌리, 인삼열매 그리고 시린가레시놀은 DPPH radical-scavenging activity, H2O2 scavenging
activity 가 있음을 확인하였다.
 Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
BerryPEP : Reference
Effects of Korean ginseng berry on skin antipigmentation and
GR: Ginseng Root
antiaging via FoxO3a activation GB: Ginseng Berry
J Ginseng Res 2017;41:277e283 SYR: Syringaresinol

Fig. 5. Ginseng components have potent Anti-aging activity

(A, B). induce a life span extension in the Caenorhabditis elegans wild type N2 strain. The survival curves (A) and the mean life span (B)
(C, D). Ginseng components decrease lipofuscin accumulation in passaged human dermal fibroblasts
(해설) Fig. 35 인삼성분은 안티에이징 효과가 있으며 C.elegans의 수명 연장 효과와 사람의 피부 세포 (fibroblast)에서 lipofuscin accumulation 을
억제하여 Anti-aging 효과를 보인다.
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
BerryPEP: Efficacy Test
DPPH radical scavenging assay
(BerryPEP)

DPPH RADICAL SCAVENGING(%)

100%
-28.2% -45.3% -53.2% -72.5%

80%

60%

40%

20%

0%
control 1.0% 2.0% 4.0% 8.0%

BerryPEP has a concentration-dependent antioxidant effect,

which is beneficial to the skin.

Tested by A&PEP Laboratory

Introduction of Our Peptide Products.

Elastase inhibition assay

(BerryPEP)

100%
-27.6% -38.3% -53.8% -62.1%
ELASTASE INHIBITION (%)
80%

60%

40%

20%

0%
Control 1.0% 2.0% 4.0% 8.0%

BerryPPEP has concentration-dependent ellastase activity-

suppressing effects
It is effective for wrinkle improvement and anti-aging.
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
BerryPEP: Efficacy Test
Collagenase inhibition assay
(BerryPEP)

COLLAGENASE INHIBITION(%) 100%

-29% -35% -45% -59%

80%

60%

40%

20%

0%
Control 1.0% 2.0% 4.0% 8.0%

BerryPEP has concentration-dependent collagenase activity-

suppressing effects and is effective for wrinkle improvement and
anti-aging
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
BerryPEP: Efficacy Test
MMP-1 inhibition assay
(BerryPEP)

100% 7%
MMP1 EXPRESSION (%)

29% 41% 51%

80%

60%

40%

20%

0%
Control 0% 1.0% 2.0% 4.0% 8.0%

BerryPEP is effective for wrinkle improvement and anti-aging, which

are concentration-dependently effective for MMP-1 activity
suppression.
 Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
BerryPEP the simplified human body application test

• Ages : 40s – 50s Wrinkle improvement rate

• Subjects : improving wrinkles around the eyes of subjects after 4W : 65.0%
• Periods : 8 weeks (checking in duplicate) 80
75
• Concentration:
65
- Test group “applying BerryPEP 10% cream”
60
- Control group “non-applying BerryPEP cream”
• Methods
1) 8 weeks of clinical trial, using the product at least 5
40
times a week
2) Using 7 times a week depending on skin age and
wrinkles
20

0
0
0W 4W 8W
 Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
As a result of the simplified human body application test
0W 4W 8W
Test group

0W
4W
8W
Control group

0W
4W
8W

it is confirmed that BerryPEP improved the length and depth of wrinkles in the test group compared
to the control group.
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
ApepAHP-5(0.05%)
INCI Name : Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Referred to as a similar Botox peptide, it relieves deep wrinkles and prevents

Function
skin aging
1. Wrinkle relief
Effectiveness
2. Aging prevention
Application Field Facial expression treatment
1. Controls the formation of Snale Complex in order to temporarily inhibit the
secretion of Acetyl Choline *
Action Mechanism
2. Controls the secretion of catecholamines e.g. adrenalin and noradrenaline
that relives wrinkles caused by facial expression.

Content 500ppm pH 5.5 ~ 7.5

Appearance Clear to Slightly Hazy Liquid Specific Gravity 0.98 - 1.20

Odor Characteristic Preservative Free

Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
ApepAHP-5(0.05%)
1. Like-BOTOX
- It acts on skin with the
same function as Botox
2. Low-molecular peptide
- Easy to penetrate skin
with low-molecular
peptide
3. Direct action
of muscle tissue
- Skin elasticity effect in a
short time-> Duration
varies depending on
concentration
Advantages of AHP-8
4. Powerful wrinkle care
- It modulates secretion of
-Functions similar to Botox
catecholamines
& low-molecular substances
(adrenaline and
noradrenaline),
- the main factor in
eliminates
wrinkle formation, and
the disadvantages of Botox
regulates the formation
and stabilization of
SNARE Complex.
ApepAHP-5(0.05%)
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
ApepAHP-5(0.05%)

ApepAHP-5(0.05%) VS Botox
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Botox
Skin application Injection into the body
No side effects Side effects from cold to ptosis
Progressive efficacy in sustained use Re-application every 4 months
Relatively inexpensive High cost ($600 or more per time)
Easy to use at any time Hospital treatment required
• Botox is used as a treatment for muscle neuropathy, such as cross-eyedness, torticollis, facial seizures,
eyelid seizures, and cerebral palsy
• Since the 1990s, it has been found that wrinkles disappear in the eyes of patients who have been
treated with Botox in the face.
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
ApepAHP-5(0.05%) – Snare Complex Modulation

separation return to normal

suppression of
Normal synapse interval of synapse in six
partial secretion
synapse months

One of the causes of wrinkles is excessive secretion of catecholamine (dopamine, adrenaline,

and noradrenaline). Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 can suppress the secretion of catecholamine
substances for a limited time.
Introduction of Our Peptide Products.
ApepAHP-5(0.05%)
clinical demonstration

Reference
The Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy of Argireline, a Synthetic Hexapeptide,
in Chinese Subjects A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Study
Yuan Wang Mei Wang Shengxiang Xiao
• • •

Ping Pan Ping Li Jia Huo

• •

Published online: 16 February 2013

Springer International Publishing Switzerland 2013
Product Line-up
No. Class. Product Name Application INCI Name 비고
Anti-aging
Bacillus/Houttuynia Cordata Leaf Extract/Volcanic Ash Ferment Filtrate,
1. Ferment VolcanEX-F Moisturizing Patent
Bacillus/Spirodela Polyrhiza Extract/Volcanic Ash Extract Ferment Filtrate
Anti-imflammatioin
2. Peptide TranEX-1 Whitening Traneamoyl Dipeptide-23 Patent
Panax Ginseng Berry Extract,
3. Peptide BerryPEP Anti-aging Patent
Lactobacillus/Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate
4. Peptide ApepAHP-5 Anti-aging Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

5. Ferment Citron-F Anti-aging Lactobacillus/(Lemon/Orange) Peel Extract Ferment Filtrate Patent

6. Peptide V-Peptide-2 Whitening Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 Patent

7. Complex Tranexell-V10 Whitening Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22, Tranexamoyl Dipeptide-22 Patent

Hexapeptide-9, Tripeptide-29,
8. Complex Finexell-T11 Anti-aging Patent
Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Anti-aging
9. Complex Moisturing MAX Patent
Moisturizing
10. Peptide V-Peptide-3 Whitening Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22 Patent

11. Peptide ApepColla-5 Anti-aging Tripeptide-29 Patent

12. Peptide PermPEP Anti-aging Hexapeptide-67 Palmitate Patent

Moisturizing Lactobacillus ferment lysate, Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum Extract,
13. Ferment Icella Patent
Anti-aging Lactobacillus/Collagen Ferment Filtrate
Moisturizing
14. Ferment Icella-F Lactobacillus ferment lysate, Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum Extract
Anti-aging
Moisturizing
15. Extract Icella-E Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum Extract
Anti-aging