2023/03/08

TEXTILE FIBERS, THEIR

UNIT 3: CLASSIFICATION AND
TEXILE FIBERS AND ASPECTS THAT AFFECT
THEIR PROPERTIES THEIR PROPERTIES
•At the end of this unit, you should be
able to: • A fiber is the fundamental
•identify and use terms describing unit from which textile
textiles fibres and their properties; fabrics and products are
•explain the relationship between fibre made
structure and fibre properties;
•use fibre performance to evaluate the • Fibers are found in nature
extent to which end-use requirements
and are also manufactured
and expectations will be met; and
from a variety of raw
•identify commonly used fibres through
simple identification procedures. materials

CLASSIFICATION OF
TEXTILES
• For textile fibers, a simple type of
fiber classification, based on a
systematic arrangement of fibers
into categories of animal, vegetable,
and mineral matter has for the most
part sufficed

• However, with the development of

man-made fibers new systems had
to be developed

Natural fibers
• Are found in nature in fibrous form

Manufactured fibers
• Are produced either from raw
materials found in nature (modified),
or synthesised in a laboratory from
petroleum or other products

Fiber classification SYSTEMS FOR CLASSIFICATION MAY BE

BASED ON THE FOLLOWING:
In 1960 the Textile Fiber
Products Identification Act 1. The principal origin of the fiber: Fibers either
(TFPIA) became effective in occur as fibrous forms in nature or they are
America, which requires that manufactured – this produces two major groups
textile products have labels as mentioned before, namely natural and man-
stating the fiber content. made fibers
Today there are 43 different
generic families [29 2. The general chemical type: Fibers can be
approved by the Federal cellulose, protein, synthesised or mineral. (The
Trade Commission (FTC) chemical structure is a more accurate way of
and an additional 14 classifying fibers and differences in structure are
International Standards usually indicative of differences in properties)
Organisation (ISO) names
that are not officially listed in 3. The generic term or family name as specified by
the textile rules, but their use the TFPIA provides a scientific basis for grouping
is permitted). fibers
Any system of fiber
classification used since the 4. The inclusion of common names or trade
passage of TFPIA should names for fibers. This has become quite
include these generic terms complicated with the variety of fibers produced
at least as a partial basis for world-wide, but there are some well-known
textile classification. common names that could be useful to know
when classifying fibers

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Textile Fibers

MOST COMMONLY USED FIBERS

Natural Fibers Manufactured Fibers FOR TEXTILE USE:

Cellulosic Protein Mineral Cellulosic Protein Synthetic Rubber Mineral

Natural Fibers
1. Wool
Seed Hair Animal Hair Asbestos* Rayon Azlon Petroleum Metallic 2. Flax
Cotton Wool Glass
Lyocell Nylon
Specialty Wool
3. Cotton
Kapok Polyester
Milkweed Derivative Acrylic 4. Silk
Extruded Cellulose Modacrylic
Bast Silk Acetate Olefin

Flax (Linen) Spider Silk Triacetate Spandex Manufactured fibers

Aramid
Ramie Nytril 1. Polyester
Hemp Vinal
Jute Vinyon
2. Nylon
Anidex 3. Olefin
Leaf Novoloid
Sisal Sulfar 4. Acrylic (woollike)
Abaca Elastoester
Fibers commonly used for apparel and interiors are 5. Rayon (silklike)
Pina in bold Other Fibers
Raffia * not used for health reasons
PBI
6. Acetate
** Generic name approved in 2002
Melamine 7. Spandex
Fluoropolymer
PLA** 8. Aramid

1. Physical structure
ASPECTS THAT INFLUENCE
(fiber morphology)
AND EXPLAIN FIBER
PROPERTIES This is the study of the
size, shape, and
structure of a textile fiber,
• Fibers contribute to textile/ fabric and the relationship
performance between these
properties:
• Fiber properties are determined by
1. Physical structure • Fiber length
• Diameter
2. Chemical composition and • Cross-sectional shape
3. Molecular arrangement (polymer • Surface contour
properties) • Crimp
• Fiber parts

FIBER LENGTH: STAPLE VS Filament fibers

• A filament fiber is a very long, continuous
FILAMENT FIBERS
Staple fibers
• Generally referred to as “short” fibers
• Mostly natural fibers, except for silk
• A staple fiber is a unit of matter usually
at least 100 x longer than its
diameter/width
fiber – a few hundred meters (as in the
case of the only natural filament, silk) to
several kilometers with a thickness similar
to staple fiber
• The length of manufactured filament
fibers can be determined by the
manufacturer – filaments are extruded as
‘continuous’; depending on the end-use
the length can vary

• Most natural fibers range in length Filament tow

form 15 – 150 mm, with some • Loose cord of thousands of crimped
exceptions filament fibers that are cut to staple length

• The fiber thickness tends to range

between 10 µm and 50 µm
(micrometer)

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Learning activity 2 (page 31)

• Use fabrics #3 and 5 from your swatch kit.
Identify the fiber length in each fabric as
filament or staple

• When examining a fabric with staple fibers, the fabric will have a soft or matte luster and feel
fuzzy – fiber ends protrude above the surface when the fabric is viewed closely. If the fabric is
folded and the folded area is viewed over a contrasting surface , the fiber ends can be seen,
making the edge of the fabric look slightly fuzzy. When a yarn is unraveled from these
fabrics, short fiber ends can be seen protruding from the yarn. When the yarn is untwisted,
short fibers can be pulled from the yarn.
• Smooth filament yarns will produce fabric that is shiny, lustrous, smooth and slick. No fiber
ends can be seen on the surface. When the yarn is removed, it usually takes fewer turns to
unravel it. The only fiber ends that exist is where the fabric has been cut and the fibers are as
long as that piece of fabric. If the fabric is folded and viewed over a contrasting surface, the
edge of the fabric will look sharper and crisper than that of the spun yarn fabric.

FIBER THICKNESS / DIAMETER

CROSS-SECTIONAL SHAPES AND
• Large fibers (stiff, rough and durable, used for carpets) FIBER CONTOURS
• Fine fibers (soft and flexible, good for draping, better
quality, used for apparel)

• Fineness is measured in micrometers (1/1000 millimeter)

• Natural fibers vary in fineness (subject to growth

irregularities – not uniform). Fineness is one factor in
determining quality. Silk is the most often the finest (11-
12 micrometers) and wool tend to be larger (10-50)

• Manufactured fibers’ diameter is controlled and uniform

• Referred to as denier or tex

• Fiber fineness affects drape, hand, wrinkle resistance,

and strength of a fiber

Surface contour Surface Contour

• Outer surface of a fiber may be
smooth, saw-toothed, rough, which • Surface characteristics as seen
influences the reflection of light, and with a microscope (conclusive
ultimately influences the physical identification of natural and most
appearance of the textile (shine of a man-made fibers, however, as the
textile ) shape and surface of synthetic
Texture of the outer surface of a fiber fibers can be manipulated, more
influences the hand, luster, body, information/tests are necessary)
opacity/translucence and texture of a
textile • Influence on skin contact comfort
(surface irregularities can provide
COLOUR more comfort as this keeps the
• The colour of a fiber is dependent fabric from lying flat on the skin –
on the fiber source, but most are more air circulation possible; very
white or off-white smooth fabrics – like synthetics –
tend to stick to the skin and less
• Colour affects the physical
air circulation is possible).
appearance of fibers

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• Natural fibers have more distinct

features (‘wall’, layers, cell types, FIBER CRIMP
micro-fibrils, fibrils, central
channels)
• Twists waves or curls along the
• Most synthetic fibers are solid length of a fiber
round tubes – but once again, can
be manipulated
• Crimp affects
FIBER PARTS
cohesiveness, resiliency,
• Natural fibers (not silk) are resistance to abrasion,
composed out of three main stretch, bulk, warmth,
parts: cuticle/skin (outer part;
inner area; and a core in the absorbency, luster, and
center (may be hollow) skin-contact comfort.
• Manufactured fibers usually only
consist of the cuticle and core

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION AND MOLECULAR

ARRANGEMENT

• All matter is made up of chemicals, including textiles and

fibers
• Fibers are classified in groups by two criteria: source (natural
or manufactured) and chemical composition
• Fibers that belong to the same generic group have similar
chemical properties
• Chemical properties of a fiber directly relates to its molecular
arrangement
• Fibers are composed of billions of atoms that are bonded
together in molecular chains by polymerization
• These chains are created (when small molecules-monomers-
are joined together to form a long chain/ polymer

MOLECULAR ARRANGEMENT
•Textile fibers are made up of molecules (group of atoms bonded together) –
these are called polymers (macro-molecules)
When looking at fiber properties, there are
• The ‘unit’ of a polymer is a monomer (mono = one) three important aspects that play a role:
1. Polymer length
2. Arrangement of the polymers in the fiber
structure and
3. The bonds that form between the
adjacent polymers

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• The length of the polymer is important and all fibers, both natural and DP with polymerisation of Ethylene: C 2H4
man-made/synthetic fibers have long to extremely long polymers

• Difficult to determine the exact length of a polymer, but an estimate can

be obtained by determining the degree of polymerisation (DP)

average molecular weight

DP = ---------------------------------------------------------
molecular weight of repeating unit (monomer)
in the polymer

Long chains indicate a high DP and

high degree of fiber strength

Polymerisation of Ethylene (C2H4) = Polyethylene

Configurations of
molecular chains
• Molecular chains have
• Each fiber has a different DP; different configurations within
cotton consists of about 5000 fibers:
repeating units (repeating – Amorphous: arranged
monomers) random/ disorganized
within fiber
• A polymer is often described as
– Crystalline: organized
having a backbone, consisting
parallel to each other
of atoms that are bonded to
each other in a linear – Molecular chains that are
configuration, responsible for parallel to each other and
the length of the polymer to the fiber’s lengthwise
(creating a “bridge” between axis are oriented
monomers)

Hydrogen bonding is the • Most common

attraction of positive hydrogen bonds
hydrogen atoms of the in the polymer
chain to the negative
system of textile
oxygen or nitrogen atoms
of an adjacent chain fibers are that
formed between
hydrogen and
oxygen atoms

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• There are also other segments

of the polymer backbone that
are composed of other atoms
(these have an obvious
influence on the characteristic
and the properties of the
polymer, and the fiber)
• Very weak electrostatic forces that
FUNCTIONAL GROUPS
1. VAN DER WAAL’S FORCES
(dispersion distribution forces)
• Very weak inter-polymer forces of
attraction
attract neutral molecules to each
other in gases, organic liquids, and
organic solids such as textiles

• In simple terms: they become an

• These groups are responsible inter-polymer force of attraction
for the unique properties of when electrons of very closely
each fibre type and form part adjacent atoms move around each
of the polymer backbone other

3. FIBER PROPERTIES (relates to the

serviceability properties) b) Sorptive Properties
• Fiber properties are determined by their physical structure, • Absorption: ability of
chemical composition, and molecular arrangement (includes a fiber to take
both fiber morphology and and polymer properties)
moisture/water in
a) Physical Structure Properties • Adsorption: ability of
• Specific gravity: thickness/density of the fiber a fiber to hold water
compared to water on the fiber surface
• Tenacity: how strong the fiber is • Wickability: capillary
• Elongation and elastic recovery: ability of a action of a fiber; the
fiber to be pulled and stretch, and to then also movement of water
return to original measurements
across the fabric
• Resiliency: ability of a fiber to return to its surface
original shape after being twisted, crushed,
compressed, etc. • Affinity for oil: ability
• Flexibility: ability of a fiber to resist breaking of a fiber to take up
when being bent, twisted or folded or hold oily
• Stiffness: opposite of flexible. Ability of a fiber substances
to resist bending

c) Chemical Properties
• Ability of a fiber to withstand damage
caused by destructive chemicals
• Dependent on chemical arrangement,
chemical bonds, and to some degree
fiber morphology
• The amount of damage relates to the
fiber’s:
- Chemical composition and structure
- The exposure time to the chemical
- Concentration and intensity of the chemical

• Resistance to acids (textile processing)

or alkalis (cleaning agents)
• Resistance to oxidizing agents: Chlorine
bleaches used during laundering
• Resistance to organic solvents: ability of
a fiber to resist damage caused by dry
cleaning agents

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d) Biological Properties
• Dependent on chemical arrangement/structure
• Resistance to mildew or micro-organisms such
as fungi and bacteria: synthetic fibers generally
have better resistance
• Resistance to damage caused by insects:
natural cellulose and protein fibers are most
commonly affected (insects feed on fibers)

e) Other Fiber Properties

• Dependent on chemical composition, chemical
bonds
• Thermal properties such as the effect of heat and
flame exposure: relates to the exposure to heat
during processing, use (ironing etc.). Also an
indication of safety measures to be taken for
specific fibers

• Resistance to ultraviolet light: polymer

arrangement determine the resistance to
degradation caused by UV light