TKS 212 STUDY THEME 4i:

INTRODUCTION TO NATURAL CELLULOSIC FIBERS

& SEED FIBERS
 Unit 4: Outcomes
At the end of this unit, you should be able to:
• identify cellulosic fibres;
• describe the characteristics common to all
cellulosic fibres;
• discuss the characteristics and performance
unique to the commonly used cellulosic fibres;
• explain the basic steps in processing these fibres;
and
• asses market needs in relation to the properties
of natural cellulosic.
 NATURAL CELLULOSIC
FIBERS

• Natural cellulosic fibers are derived

from plant sources, and the fibers
are classified according to the
specific part of the plant that is used
to produce fabric

• Seed hair fibers grow in seed pods

on plants (cotton, kapok, coir,
milkweed, etc.)

• Bast fibers are removed from the

stem of the plant (flax/linen, ramie,
hemp, jute, kenaf, etc.)

• Leaf fibers are found in plant leaves

(piña, abaca, sisal, henequen, etc.)

• Other: Bark, root etc.

 • Natural cellulosic fibers are all
cellulosic, but are different in the
percentage of cellulose present,
and their physical structures vary

• These fibers’ molecular structure

(chains) are similar, but the length
and orientation are different
(appearances, hand, end use,
and performances are therefore
different, while their reaction to
chemicals are similar)
 Cellulose is the
basic ‘building
block’ of all plant
material
All cellulose fibers contain:
Carbon (C)
Hydrogen (H)
Oxygen (O)

The basic monomer

of cellulose is
Glucose
Cotton may have as many as
10000 monomers per molecule
connected in long linear chains.
ß glucose unit (monomer) Chain length contributes to fiber
strenght
The chemical reactivity of cellulose is related to the hydroxyl group (-OH) of
the glucose unit – reacts readily with moisture, dyes and many finishes

Cellobiose unit
Glycosidic bond

Chemicals such as chlorine bleach damage cellulose by attacking the oxygen

atom between the two ring units or within the ring, rupturing the chain or ring
Seed fibers
 INTRODUCTION TO COTTON FIBERS

• Cotton characteristics vary based on variety, growing

conditions, and processing
• Cotton is the fiber used most extensively in the world
• It is relatively easy to produce, but also one of the most
harmful fibers as large amounts of water and pesticides are
used in the production of these fibers (Recently there has
been a lot of emphasis on organic (eco-friendly) cotton
production)
• Cotton is very versatile an adaptable to a variety of end-uses
• General properties: good absorbency (comfort and dyeability)
and reasonably strong and durable
 PHYSICAL STRUCTURE OF
COTTON

• Part of the seed fiber group

of natural cellulose fibers
Each cotton seed may have as
many as 20 000 fibers growing from
its surface

LENGTH: Staple fibers: length

varies from
0,3 to 5,5 cm (depends on
genetic variety)

Long staple fibers are

considered stronger & better
quality (e.g. Pima, Supima,
Egyptian and Sea Island
 SURFACE CONTOUR (Longitudinal
view, under a microscope):
• Fiber fineness varies (16-20
micro-meters)
• Cotton looks like a flat twisted
ribbon – has convolutions (±
200 (short staple) to 300 (long
staple) per 2,5 cm

CROSS SECTIONAL SHAPE:

• Varies with maturity – immature fibers

tend to be U-shaped (kidney shaped)
with thin cell wall. Mature fibers are more
circular with a thick cell wall and a very
small central channel known as the lumen
 • The secondary wall;
consists of layers of
cellulose composed of
looser, spirally
arranged fibrils that
provide a bit of flexibility
Cross-section of cotton fibre showing cuticle,
primary and secondary walls and lumen • There is a slight amount of
movement between the
primary and
secondary walls that
makes extension
possible (once again
only slight – cotton has a
low elongation and poor
elasticity
Mercerization causes permanent
physical change by treating cotton
with NaOH (sodium hydroxide).
Fiber swells and has rounder cross
section with less convolusions.

Mercerization increases
absorbency and improves
dyeability. Liquid ammonia can
also be used as an alternative
 COLOUR:

• Vary, but is
generally off-white
with the exception
of naturally
colored cottons

LUSTER:

• Short fibers are

dull. Long fibers
have
comparatively
more luster
 COTTON – PROPERTIES
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Tenacity medium cotton & linen are stronger when wet
Elongation low poor stretch ability
Elastic Recovery low higher than linen
Resiliency low relatively higher than linen

Specific Gravity high approx 1.5 for all cellulosic fibers

Stiffness
Absorbency
CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
Resistance to Dilute Acids
Resistance to Conc. Acids
Resistance to Dilute Alkalis
Resistance to Conc. Alkalis
Resistance to Chlorine Bleach
Resistance to Organic Solvents
BIOLOGICAL PROPERTIES
Damage by Micro-organisms
Damage by Moth
Damage by Silverfish
OTHER PROPERTIES
Action of Heat
Resistance to Ultraviolet Light
ELECTRICAL AND THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY
high coarser fibers are stiffer
hydrophilic easy to dye and apply finish
low hot acids will damage fibers
low strong acids will disintegrate the fiber
high an advantage in dyeing and finishing
high concentrated alkali cause swelling
high frequent bleaching weakens fiber
high solvents for cleaning can be used
damaged damaged by fungi and bacteria
not damaged not a food source for moths
damaged more susceptible when starched
scorches scorches at high temperatures
low to medium oxidizes due to prolonged exposure
good Good heat and electrical conductivity - hydrophilic
 AESTHETICS:
APPEARANCE

1. PHYSICAL
APPEARANCE
• Cotton fibers have a natural
twist and uneven fabric
surface, resulting in a matte
appearance (low luster)

• Luster is higher for longer

fibers, mercerized cotton, and
for fabrics with finishes that
increase luster
 DRAPE

• Cotton has high stiffness

(due to its relatively high
crystallinity); thus, it
generally does not drape
as well as some of the
other fibers

COVERING POWER

• Cotton fibers are opaque.

Therefore, light does not
pass through the fibers
 AESTHETICS: APPEARANCE

2. APPEARANCE RETENTION

WRINKLE AND CRUSH RESISTANCE

• Cotton wrinkles easily due to low

resiliency

• Blending cotton with polyester or

applying finishes improves wrinkle
resistance properties

• Pile carpets/rugs are easily crushed

or flattened due to low
compressional resilience
 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

• Cotton may shrink in the first few

launderings due to relaxation
shrinkage
• This occurs when fibers stretched
during the manufacturing process
( inter –polymer H-bonds break
when stretched and reform in
stretched position); they relax
during laundering, especially if
hot wash water/hot dryer is used
(water and/or heat break the new
bonds; the fibers relax)
• As water also causes the fibers to
swell in a crosswise direction and
shorten lengthwise during this
process, this causes fabric
shrinkage
 SHAPE RETENTION

• Cotton has low

elastic recovery
(once again this can
be attributed the H-
bonds that break
easily, reform in the
extended position
and prevent the
polymers from
recovering)
 COMFORT

MOISTURE PROPERTIES
• Cotton is one of the most comfortable fibers in
hot conditions as it has very good moisture
absorption properties (can be ascribed to the
–OH functional groups that attract water
molecules)
• Cotton is a very hydrophilic fiber and can
absorb about one-fourth of its weight in water

STRETCH AND RECOVERY

• Cotton does not recover when stretched due
to low elasticity and elongation (It is blended
with elastomeric fibers such as spandex to
provide elasticity)
 STATIC BUILD-UP
• Cotton has no static build-up
in warm and dry weather
because it is a hydrophilic fiber

SKIN
IRRITANTS/ALLERGENS
• Cotton does not irritate skin as
it is a smooth natural fiber
 DURABILITY

STRENGTH
• In general, cotton has medium strength
(Although cotton falls into the medium to
high strength category, it does not have
enough crystalline areas to put it in the
high strength category (70% crystalline).
• Longer staples are stronger (more
crystalline areas; held together by H-
bonds) than shorter staples. Heavier-
weight cotton fabrics are used for rugged
wear
• Cotton is also blended with polyester to
increase the fabric strength
• Cotton is often mercerised as this gives
a stronger cotton with a higher luster
and better absorbency than
unmercerised cotton
 ABRASION RESISTANCE
• Cotton has low resistance to abrasion.
(Cotton garments tend to wear out at
edges as well as folds such as cuffs,
collars, and hems)

WEATHERING
• Cotton yellows and degrades in
extended sunlight. Therefore,
draperies made of cotton should
be lined.
• Cotton used outdoors degrades
over a period of time and is also
susceptible to rotting. A functional
finish is usually applied to fabrics
used outdoors
 CARE

CLEANING
• Cotton can be laundered using regular
detergents since the fibers are not damaged
by alkalis
• Cotton is stronger when wet; therefore,
it withstands agitation during washing
and drying
• A cotton product may shrink during the
first few washes due to fabric
construction or stretching during
manufacturing (inter –polymer H-bonds
break when stretched and reform in
stretched position, they relax during
laundering, especially if hot wash
water/hot dryer is used; water and/or
heat break the new bonds; the fibers
relax )
• The good hydrophilic property
has the disadvantage that the
fiber is also susceptible to
water-borne stains
• Cotton is therefore also very
easy to dye – bright, saturated
colours are the result
• Controlled use of chlorine
bleach will not damage
fabrics/garments, but excessive
use weakens fibers (do not pour
on directly)
• The fibers are not damaged by
organic solvents; thus,
garments can be dry cleaned
 IRONING
• Fabrics can be ironed using
steam and a high temperature
setting

STORAGE
• Cotton fabrics should be
cleaned prior to storing to
avoid acid damage from
dried-out stains such as fruit
juices
• Cotton fabrics should be
stored dry to avoid mildew
• Silverfish may damage cotton,
especially if it is starched
 ECO-FRIENDLY COTTON
• Production and processing of cotton
commonly requires the use of pesticides
and other chemicals
• Different terms are used to describe the
eco-friendly cotton products
• Organic cotton is a term used for
cotton grown without pesticides,
herbicides, or fertilizers.
• Naturally colored cotton is either the
short fiber, wild cotton or the newer
varieties that have been developed
through selective breeding (Many,
but not all colored cottons, are also
organically grown)
• “Green cotton” is processed without
bleaches, chemicals, harsh
detergents, or synthetic dyes (It is
called “green cotton” because it is
environmentally friendly)
Visit the website to gain a better understanding of BCI initiatives across the globe,
including South Africa!
Other seed fibers: Coir
Other seed fibers: Kapok
Other seed fibers: Milkweed