Unit 4ii : Natural Cellulosic Fibers

- Bast & Leaf

 Bast fibers: Flax
One of the oldest documented textile fibers

Linen mummy wraps more than 3000 years old have been found in Egyptian tombs
 FLAX (LINEN)

• The fabrics produced with flax fibers

are known as linen

• The fibers are obtained from the stem

of the flax plant

• After harvesting, the flax stems are

soaked in water (retting) to prepare
the fibrous material for separation.
This process is followed by breaking
and scrutching to separate the fibrous
material

• Combing (hackling) then separates

the long fibers from the short

• The long fibers are known as line and

the short as tow
 Bast Fibers

• Bast fibers are derived from the stem of the plant

• Since the fiber extends into root, harvesting is done by pulling up the
plant or cutting it as close as possible to the ground to keep the fiber as
long as possible
 Retting
Bacterial rotting process
Fibers loosened from stalk

Water retting

Dew retting
– less environmental impact

Other: Chemical retting

Scrutching & Hackling
Scrutching: woody portion
removed from stalks
LINEN (FLAX) FIBER’S GENERAL
CHARACTERISTICS (FIBER
MORPHOLOGY)

SURFACE CONTOUR
(LONGITUDINAL VIEW)
• Flax fibers are uneven, straight
fiber with nodes
• Flax fibers vary in shape and size
as the fibers are bundled
together. The bundled fibers
resemble bamboo and vary in
size

SHAPE (CROSS SECTION)

• Flax fibers vary considerably in
shape and size
COLOUR AND LUSTER

• Colour ranges from

light yellowish white
to grey
• The method of
retting (soaking in
water) affects the
colour of the fiber
• Linen has a natural
luster due to the
remaining waxes
from the flax stem
 LINEN FIBER PROPERTIES

When looking at fiber properties, there are

three important aspects that play a role:
1. Polymer length
2. Arrangement of the polymers in the fiber
structure and
3. The bonds that form between the
adjacent polymers
 FLAX POLYMER AND
POLYMER SYSTEM

• Flax is similar to cotton in its

chemical composition
(cellulose)

• Compared to cotton, flax

has a longer polymer
system (high degree of
CELLOBIOSE UNIT
polymerization, and is
therefore more oriented,
resulting in high crystallinity
 FLAX (LINEN)– PROPERTIES

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Tenacity high linen & cotton are stronger when wet
Elongation low poor stretchability
Elastic Recovery low lower than cotton
Resiliency low lower than cotton
Specific Gravity high approx 1.5 for all cellulosic fibers
Stiffness high one of the stiffest fibers
Absorbency hydrophilic easy to dye and apply finish
CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
Resistance to Dilute Acids low hot acids will damage fibers
Resistance to Conc. Acids low strong acids will disintegrate the fiber
Resistance to Dilute Alkalis high an advantage in dyeing and finishing
Resistance to Conc. Alkalis high concentrated alkalis cause swelling
Resistance to Chlorine Bleach high frequent bleaching weakens fiber
Resistance to Organic Solvents high solvents for cleaning can be used
BIOLOGICAL PROPERTIES
Damage by Micro-organisms damaged damaged by fungi and bacteria
Damage by Moth not damaged not a food source for moths
Damage by Silverfish damaged more susceptible when starched
OTHER PROPERTIES
Action of Heat scorches scorches at high temperatures
Resistance to Ultraviolet Light low to medium oxidizes due to prolonged exposure
ELECTRICAL AND THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY good conducts electricity and heat - hydrophilic
 AESTHETICS: APPEARANCE

1. PHYSICAL APPEARANCE

• Linen has a natural luster due to the

remaining waxes from the flax stem

• A finishing process called beetling is

commonly used to enhance linen’s luster

• Linen can be easily bleached and then dyed

with dyes used for cellulosic fibers

DRAPE

• Linen has high stiffness and generally does

not drape as well as some of the other
fibers

COVERING POWER

• Linen fibers are opaque. Thus, light does

not pass through the fibers
 AESTHETICS: APPEARANCE

2. APPEARANCE RETENTION

WRINKLE AND CRUSH RESISTANCE

• Linen fabrics wrinkle very easily,

and the wrinkles are difficult to
iron out

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
• The dimensional stability of linen
is moderate

SHAPE RETENTION
• Linen is usually used to produce
woven fabrics. Shape retention is
not a problem in woven linen
fabrics. If linen is knitted, the knit
may remain stretched because
linen has low elastic recovery
 DURABILITY

STRENGTH
• Linen is one of the strongest natural fibers. It
can withstand regular wear and retains its
strength over a long period of time

ABRASION RESISTANCE
• Linen has good abrasion resistance. (The
remaining wax in the fibers enhances the
abrasion resistance properties)

WEATHERING
• Like other cellulosic fibers, linen is damaged by
prolonged exposure to light. Linen is
comparatively more resistant to light than
cotton. However, draperies made of linen
should be lined
 COMFORT

MOISTURE PROPERTIES
• Linen is often used during warm seasons
because it has good moisture absorption
and wicking properties
• It is not used as extensively as cotton due
to high cost and maintenance

STRETCH AND RECOVERY

• Linen does not stretch due to low elasticity

STATIC BUILDUP
• Linen has no static buildup in warm and dry
weather since it is a hydrophilic fiber

SKIN IRRITANTS/ALLERGENS
• Linen does not irritate skin
 CARE

CLEANING
• Linen can be laundered using regular detergents as the fibers
are not damaged by alkalis and, just like cotton, are stronger
when wet

• Linen is difficult to iron. (This is a result of the high crystallinity

– there is little space for distorted polymers to recover)

• Care instructions should be followed for cleaning linen

garments as other factors such as the dye used, may influence
the care of garments
 IRONING

• Linen fabrics are

usually steam ironed or
ironed when damp to
remove the wrinkles,
as wrinkles are hard to
remove

STORAGE
• Linen fabrics should be
cleaned prior to storing
to avoid acid damage
from dried-out stains
such as fruit juices.
• Linen fabrics should be
stored dry to avoid
mildew
Other bast
fibers:
• Ramie
• Hemp
• Jute
• Kenaf
• Hibiscus
• Nettle
• Bamboo
Leaf Fibers
• Piῇa
• Abaca
• Sisal
• Henequen