Mst.

Sharmin Aktar
Lecturer
Dept: Leather Engineering
SUEDE LEATHER ILET, DU

Standard procedure for the production of suede leather from wet

blue goat skin:
Samming: By machine

Shaving: By machine (thickness 0.9-1.0 mm)

Take shaved weight ( All percentage based on shaved weight)

Acid wash:

200% water

0.3% acetic acid

0.3% wetting agent Run 30 min pH= 3.2-3.3

Drain, Rinse

Re-chroming:

150% water at N.T.

0.3% formic acid Ran- 20 min
+ 8.0% chrome powder
2.0% chrome syntan
1.0% sodium formate
1.0% cationic fat Run-60 min
+ 1.5% TX-50 Run-30 min
+ 2.0% neosyn 9P Run-30 min
+ 1.0% sodium-bi-carbonate Run-90 min pH= 3.8-3.9
Drain, Rinse, Horse up overnight.
Neutralization:
150% water at 45°C
2.5% neutral syntan
1% sodium formate Run-60 min pH= 4.5-4.6
Drain, Wash well.
Re-tanning and fat-liquoring:
150% water at 45°C
3.0% paramel PA/RE Run-30 min
+ 3.0% relugan D/P-100 Run-20 min
+ 1.0% remsol C-2
0.2% trilon B-liquid Run-15 min
+ 4.0% tanigan OS/PFX
4.0% mimosa
2.0% quebracho
4.0% syntan AN Run-60 min
+ 2.5% remsol B-40/DXL
2.0% remsol C-2/SLP
1.0% Trisul ML/1C
0.5% raw oil/SK Run-45 min
+ 1.0% formic acid Run-30 min
Drain, Rinse, Horse up overnight.
Mechanical operation:
Setting out

Vacuum drying

Hang dry

Staking
 Toggling

Trimming

Kiss plate

Buffing flesh side (3 times) with 320, 400 and 600 no paper
In three direction, de-dusted very well

Wet-back: (All % based on crust weight)

500% water at 50°C
1.5% liquor ammonia
0.5% wetting agent Run-60 min pH=6.0-6.5
Drain, Rinse

Dyeing and re-fatliquoring:

300% water at 45°C
1% neosyn N Run-15 min
+ 6.0% acid dye (Black B 1) Run- 45 min
Check penetration
+2.0% remsol C-2/ SLP
2.0% remsol B-40/ DXL Run-45 min
+ 3.0% formic acid (3 feed) Run-45 min
+ 1% parvol DF Run-30 min
Check the bath
Drain, Rinse well
Top-dyeing:
300% water at 50°C
1.5% Black B-1 Run-20 min
+ 1.0% formic acid Run-30 min
Drain
+300% water at 50°C
1.0% basic black VM/WR
0.5% acetic acid Run-30 min
Check the bath
+ 1.5% black B-1 Run-20 min
+ 1.0% formic acid Run-30 min
+ 1.0% parvol DF Run-30 min
Drain, Rinse very well. Horse up overnight.

Hang to dry

Staking

Dry milling for 4 hrs

Toggling and finally brushing to produce fine nap