ROUTLEDGE HANDBOOK

OF SUSTAINABILITY AND
FASHION

Edited by Kate Fletcher and Mathilda Tham

Routledge
Taylor & Francis Croup
ea r t his clan
LONDON AND NEW YORK
from Routledge
 CONTENTS

List of figures xi
List of tables xiii
List of contributors xiv

Introduction 1

PARTI
Framing and expanding sustainability and fashion 13

1 Other fashion systems

15
Kate Fletcher

2 Sustainability and fashion

25
Joanne Entwistle

3 Nature's systems
33
Louise St. Pierre

4 A whole new cloth: politics and the fashion system

43
John Thackara

PART II
Sustainability and fashion as seen from other places and
disciplines 53

5 The real challenge of sustainability 57

John R. Ehrenfeld

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 Contents

6 Economic growth and the shape of sustainable fashion: contextualizing

fashion sustainability in terms of consumer-led economic growth 64
Ann Thorpe

7 Prospect, seed and activate: advancing design for sustainability in fashion 74

Jonathan Chapman

8 Speed 82
Carolyn Strauss

9 African second-hand clothes: Mima-te and the development of

sustainable fashion 91
Amanda Ericsson and Andrew Brooks

10 Fashion and sustainability in the context of gender 100

Mirjam Southwell

11 Spirituality and ethics: theopraxy in the future of sustainability

within the supply chain 111
Sue Thomas

12 Consumption studies: the force of the ordinary 121

Ingun Grimstad Klepp and Kirsi Laitala

13 Accidentally sustainable? Ethnographic approaches to clothing

practices 131
Sophie Woodward

14 The world in a wardrobe: expressing notions of care in the

economy and everyday life 139
Joe Smith

PART III

Perspectives on refining fashion from within 147

15 A history of sustainability in fashion 151

Sasha Rabin Wallinger

16 Branding sustainability: business models in search of clarity 160

Simonetta Carbonaro and David Goldsmith

17 Towards fashion media for sustainability 171

Else Skjold

viii
 Contents

18 The role of science and technology in sustainable fashion 181

Greg Peters, Hjalmar Granberg and Susanne Sweet

19 The new synthetics: could synthetic biology lead to sustainable textile

manufacturing? 191
Carole Collet

20 The fashion system through a lens of zero-waste fashion design 201

Timo Rissancn

21 Fashion brands and workers' rights 210

Liz Parker

PART IV
Visions of sustainability from within the fashion space 221

22 Fashion as material 223

Lynda Grose

23 Fashion design 234

Dilys Williams

24 Fashion and community 243

Lizzie Harrison

25 Openness 253
Amy Twigger Holroyd

26 Mending 262
Jonnct Middleton

27 'A suit, of his own earning: fashion supremacy and sustainable

fashion activism 27 5
Otto von Busch

28 Futures of futures studies in fashion 283

Mathilda ITiam

Conclusions 293

Index 299

ix