9

Consumer
Chemistry
Quarter 3 – Module 1:
Chemicals Found in Cosmetics

DIVISION OF ANGELES CITY

Consumer Chemistry – Grade 9
Alternative Delivery Mode
Quarter 3 – Module 1: Chemicals Found in Cosmetics
First Edition, 2021

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The publisher and authors do not represent nor claim ownership over them.

Published by the Department of Education

Regional Director : May B. Eclar PhD, CESO V OIC
Asst. Regional Director : Rhoda T. Razon EdD, CESO V

Development Team of the Module

Writer: Maricar I. Cocamas
Editors: Lorna B. De Jose,Leigh Anne Alvarado,Zenaida D. Calma,
Raymond E. Mangilit, Sandy Fatima C. Miclat
Reviewers: Gemima A. Estrabillo EdD, Hermes Vargas, Adrian Tamayo,
Emily F. Sarmiento PhD, Noel S. Reganit, Krislene Ida N. Mercado
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Rivas
Illustrator: Larry Mar B. Bautista
Layout Artist: Ma. Remalyne G. Cruz EdD
Management Team: May B. Eclar PhD, CESO V
Rhoda T. Razon EdD, CESO V Ma.
Irelyn P. Tamayo PhD, CESE
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Ma. Editha R. Caparas EdD Rochella
C. David
Emily F. Sarmiento PhD
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E-mail Address: angeles.city@deped.gov.ph
 9

Consumer
Chemistry
Quarter 3 – Module 1:
Chemicals Found in Cosmetics
Introductory Message
This Self-Learning Module (SLM) is prepared so that you, our dear learners,
can continue your studies and learn while at home. Activities, questions, directions,
exercises, and discussions are carefully stated for you to understand each lesson.

Each SLM is composed of different parts. Each part shall guide you step-by-
step as you discover and understand the lesson prepared for you.

Pre-tests are provided to measure your prior knowledge on lessons in each

SLM. This will tell you if you need to proceed on completing this module or if you
need to ask your facilitator or your teacher’s assistance for better understanding of
the lesson. At the end of each module, you need to answer the post-test to self-
check your learning. Answer keys are provided for each activity and test. We trust
that you will be honest in using these.

In addition to the material in the main text, Notes to the Teacher are also
provided to our facilitators and parents for strategies and reminders on how they can
best help you on your home-based learning.

Please use this module with care. Do not put unnecessary marks on any part
of this SLM. Use a separate sheet of paper in answering the exercises and tests. And
read the instructions carefully before performing each task.

If you have any questions in using this SLM or any difficulty in answering the
tasks in this module, do not hesitate to consult your teacher or facilitator.

Thank you.
 What I Need to Know

This module was designed and written with you in mind. It is here to help you
master the chemistry behind cosmetics. The scope of this module permits it to be
used in many different learning situations. The language used recognizes the diverse
vocabulary level of students. The lessons are arranged to follow the standard
sequence of the course. But the order in which you read them can be changed to
correspond with the textbook you are now using.

The module is divided into two lessons, namely:

● Lesson 1 – History of Cosmetics and Product Forms
● Lesson 2 – Cosmetic Ingredients and Their Functions

This learning module is aligned with the learning competency:

● describe the composition, properties, and uses of chemicals found in

cosmetics (creams, perfumes, talcum powder, and deodorants).

After going through this module, you are expected to:

1. trace the development and improvement of cosmetics through time;
2. explain the importance of viscosity in the cosmetic formulation;
3. classify the form of a cosmetic product;
4. identify and describe the different cosmetic ingredients, compositions, and
their functions;
5. realize the importance of using cosmetics in promoting proper and healthy
hygiene; and
6. design a cosmetic product with its product form and possible chemical
ingredients and composition.

What I Know

Directions: Read each question carefully. Choose the letter of the correct answer.

1. What was the purpose of applying colors on fingernails among the Chinese
during ancient times?
a. To look fashionable
b. To maintain good hygiene
c. To represent their social class
d. To attract a possible partner/spouse

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2. During the Renaissance period, what did European women use to lighten
their skin, known as “The Mask of Youth,” and later discovered toxic?
a. Barley flour c. White lead paint
b. Galena mesdemet d. Zinc oxide

3. Why weren’t beauty salons accepted widely during the 19th century?
a. Beauty salon services were expensive.
b. Only aristocrats can afford to avail of beauty salon services.
c. Women did not admit that they could improve their appearances by
using cosmetic products.
d. The use of cosmetics in beauty salons intensified the division among people
into social classes.

4. Which of the following is NOT a reason to consider viscosity in formulating

cosmetic product form?
a. To make it presentable c. To make it easy to apply
b. To make it easy to dispense d. To suit a customer’s perception

5. Which of the following cosmetic product forms is used in eye shadow,

blushes, talc, and mineral-make up?
a. cream c. lotion
b. gel d. powder
6. Which of the following cosmetic product forms is commonly used in making
perfume, cologne and body mist?
a. cream c. liquid
b. gel d. serum

7. Which type of cream tends to have a light-after feel on the skin after
application?
a. Water in oil emulsion cream
b. Oil in water emulsion cream
c. Both of them, since they have a water content
d. None of them, since they have an oil content

8. How do cosmetics best promote proper and healthy hygiene?

a. Perfume can mask terrible body odors.
b. Skincare products can soften and whiten skin.
c. Make-ups can enhance one’s facial appearance.
d. Soap, shampoo, and toothpaste can kill microorganisms on our bodies.

9. How do toothpaste, shampoo, and body wash become unique among other
cosmetic products?
a. They are made up of emulsion.
b. They foam up to perform their function.
c. They are highly viscous compared to others.
d. They have liquid viscosity and limited flow properties.

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 10. What cosmetic ingredient is used to enhance the products’ smell or to mask
undesirable odor?
a. Colorant c. Preservative
b. Fragrance d. Surfactant

11. What is the skin conditioning agent that retards moisture loss by holding
water within the skin’s surface layers and drawing in moisture from the air?
a. Astringent c. Humectant
b. Emollient d. Occlusive

12. What cosmetic ingredient prevents the separation of oil and water in a
solution?
a. Chelating agent c. Opacifying agent
b. Emulsion stabilizer d. Solvent

13. What cosmetic ingredients can improve the stability and shelf life of a product?
a. Added Extra c. Structural ingredients
b. Functional ingredients d. Supportive ingredients

14. Which of the following is NOT a functional ingredient of 2-in-1 shampoo and
conditioner?
a. Cleansing agent c. Hair conditioning agent
b. Fragrance d. Surfactant

15. Which of the following is the added extra ingredient of toothpaste?

a. Abrasive c. Opacifying agent
b. Chelating agent d. Surfactant

Lesson
History of Cosmetics and
1 Product

Forms
What’s In

In the previous quarter, we discovered the chemistry behind common

commercially available processed and preserved foods. We studied their chemical
compositions, production, properties, and adverse effects on humans. We also
learned about the changes occurring during food processing, storage, and
utilization.

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 To check the extent of your understanding of commercially available
processed and preserved foods, answer the simple activity below. Write chemical
compositions that you can relate to the given terms below.

Food preservatives
Food additives
Artificial sweeteners
If you got all the answers to this quick review, you are now ready for our
next lesson. In this module, you will learn the chemistry behind cosmetic products
and the history, the different chemical compositions, the product forms, and the
uses of cosmetics (creams, perfumes, talcum powder, and deodorants).

What’s New

Shivangi Gupta, a consumer

analyst at Global Data, posted a report
entitled, “Increasing population and
declining unemployment rates are
driving the growth of the cosmetics and
toiletries industry in the Philippines, as
image-conscious consumers are
increasingly opting for hair care and
skincare products.” According to this
report, even the per capita consumption
of cosmetics and toiletries of the
Philippines is far lower than Asia-Pacific
and global regions, and it is still
observed and expected to rise through
Photo Source: https://www.globaldata.com/cosmetics-toiletries-industry-
in-philippines-forecast-to-be-worth-us4-2bn-in-2023-says-globaldata/ the years.

The underlying reason for this could be using different substances to

enhance the appearance or accentuate body features. More so, cosmetics offer a
broader target market recently, especially among women.

Direction: Answer the following questions:

1. If you have a very tight budget for your daily necessities, would you still
include cosmetic products on your grocery list?
2. If yes, what cosmetic product would still be included on your list?
3. Do you think cosmetics are essential? Do you consider them as necessities?
Why or why not?
4. Based on the graph presented, how will you compare the consumption of
cosmetics and toiletries in the Philippines to those in Asia-Pacific and global
regions?
5. Why do you think there is a significant demand for cosmetics among Filipinos?

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 What is It
Cosmetics can be defined as a substance or preparation intended for
placement in contact with any external part of the human body (this includes the
mouth and teeth). It is also used to cleanse, protect, and change the body’s
appearance or alter its odors. Cosmetics are limited on make-up and include
creams, perfumes, talcum powder, shampoo deodorants, and other toiletries.

The definition, characteristics, and ingredients of cosmetics change over

time. People use available natural ingredients that they can find in their
environment, which they believe can enhance their physical appearances and help
them improve their hygiene.

Brief History of Cosmetics

Ancient Egyptians used scented oils

and ointments to clean and soften their skin,
mask body odor, and protect their skin
against the hot Egyptian sun and dry winds.
They used myrrh, thyme, marjoram,
chamomile, lavender, lily, peppermint,
rosemary, cedar, rose, aloe, olive oil, sesame
Photo Source: Ancient Egypt Perfume Cones (2019) oil, and almond oil as raw ingredients of most
perfumes Egyptians used in religious rituals.
Egyptian women applied galena mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore) and
malachite (bright green paste of copper minerals) to
their faces for color and definition.

The Chinese stained their fingernails

with gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg. The
colors were used to represent social class: Chou Photo Source:
dynasty royals wore gold and silver; the Middle
https://www.pinterest.ph/pin/177329304049163739

classes wore black or red; Lower classes were forbidden to wear bright colors on their
nails.

Henna was used in India both as a hair dye and

Mehndi, an art form in which intricate designs were painted
on the hands and feet using a paste made from the henna
plant, especially before a Hindu wedding. Henna is still also
used in some North African cultures.

In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair came into

fashion. Society women wore egg whites over their faces to
create the appearance of a paler complexion. Some people
Photo Source:
http://www.juhennatattoo.com/henna-
history

5
believed, however, that cosmetics blocked proper circulation and therefore posed a
health threat.
Italy and France emerged as the main
cosmetics manufacturing centers in Europe, and
only the aristocracy had access. European women
often attempted to lighten their skin using a
variety of products, including white lead paint.
Queen Elizabeth I of England was one well-known
user of white lead paint, with which she created a Photo Source: http://www.hennatattop.com/henna-history
look known as “the Mask of Youth.”
In Edwardian Society, pressure increased on middle-aged women to appear
youthful while acting as hostesses. As a result, the use of cosmetics increased but
was not yet wholly popularized. Beauty salons rose in popularity, though patronage
of such salons was not widely accepted. Moreover, many women did not wish to
publicly admit they could achieve their youthful appearances, so they often entered
salons through the back door.

Cosmetic Product Forms

Product forms are an essential part of quality control in the cosmetic
industry. Some cosmetics must have certain forms to prove useful for their
designed purpose. When we talk about cosmetic product forms, viscosity is very
vital. Viscosity refers to the resistance to flow. It also refers to how the product
behaves and flows when put in a particular container.

The viscosity and product form is vital because of the following reasons:
a. To make it easy to apply - A body mist must have low viscosity for it to flow
freely and be distributed in an even manner, while lipsticks and lip balms
must be highly viscous to stick on one’s lips and protect the skin.
b. To make it easy to dispense and use the right amount – Shampoo must be
viscous enough to pour it from a bottle in a controlled amount and need to
stay in the hand while applying it on the head.
c. To suit customers’ perception – customers often judge the conditioning
benefits of a conditioner by how thick and creamy it is.

Here are the different cosmetic product forms depending on their viscosity:
a. Liquid
● It can flow freely from runny like water to runny like honey.
● Water-based liquid can only contain a small amount of oils
appropriately solubilized.
Examples: perfume, body mist, skin toner
b. Gel
● It is thicker than liquid and has limited flow properties.
● It is formed through the use of gum or thickening agents.
Examples: water-based (hair-styling gel); oil-based ( viscous hair oils)
c. Foaming Gel
● It is used to describe foaming products with honey-like viscosity.
● It has limited flow capacity and prevents the product from running out
of the hand since it foams up.

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 Examples: shampoo, liquid body wash, and foaming facial cleanser
d. Serum
● It varies from low viscosity gel to almost lotion-like.
● It is used to deliver critical ingredients in a light product form.
● It is made up of smaller molecules that can penetrate deeply into the
skin and deliver a high concentration of active ingredients.
Examples: Vitamin C serum and facial serum
e. Lotion
● It contains low viscosity emulsions.
● Emulsion – is a mixture of two naturally not soluble substances (like
oil and water) by use of a material to hold them together (emulsifier)
● It can readily be pumped or squeezed from packaging with a little effort
or may run semi freely.
● The viscosity of lotions can be altered by using different emulsifying
agents, consistency factors (beeswax or other waxes), or gums or
thickening agents.
Examples: hand and body lotion, medicated lotion
f. Cream
● It contains medium to high viscosity emulsions.
● It is suitable to be put in jars or small bottles with a wide mouth or
bigger pump nozzles.
Examples: Anti-aging creams, skincare creams
● Creams can be in the form of:
? Oil in water emulsions (o/w)
● droplets of oil in water continuous phase
● tends to have a light-after feel on the skin being water-
based
? Water in oil emulsions (w/o)
● droplets of water in a continuous oil phase
● has a greasier-after feel since it is oil-based
● It has higher viscosity because of its high oil content.
g. Powder
● It is utilized readily in the color cosmetics industry like eye shadow,
blushes, pressed, loose powder, and mineral make-up.
Examples: baby powder, talc, blusher, most of the make-up products
h. Balm
● It is mostly or entirely oil-based with semi-solid consistency.
Examples: Hair and lip balm, lipstick

i. Mud
● It is often presented as a semi-solid product with the use of different
clay and with the presence of oils
Examples: Mud clay mask
j. Scrub
● It contains various sized particles to exfoliate skin mechanically.
Examples: Salt or sugar exfoliating body scrub

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 What’s More

Activity 1. History of Cosmetics

Direction: Complete the historical timeline about the development of cosmetics.

Write the chemicals or materials used by the people involved in the picture during
the early times.

Example: myrrh, thyme, 1) 2)

marjoram, chamomile, lavender,
lily, peppermint, rosemary, cedar,
rose, aloe, olive oil, sesame oil, and
almond oil as perfume

3) 4) 5)

Assessment 1

Direction: Answer the following guide questions:

1. Give three reasons why people used cosmetics during the early times.
2. Describe the cosmetic ingredients used by people during the early times.
3. How can you compare the cosmetic ingredients used in early times with the
available cosmetic products you see in the market?

8
Activity 2. Our Cosmetics at Home

Cleanliness should always start at home and with one’s self. This activity will
help you practice identifying the different cosmetic product forms. So let us start by
looking around your house. List down the available cosmetic products and identify
their cosmetic product form.

COSMETIC PRODUCTS
COSMETIC PRODUCT FORM
PRESENT AT HOME

Assessment 2

Direction: Answer the following guide questions:

1. What is the importance of considering viscosity in formulating cosmetic
products?
2. What ingredient can be added to produce a highly viscous cosmetic product?
3. What ingredient can be added to hold oil and water together in a cosmetic
formula?

What I Have Learned

Let us check if you already know the different cosmetic product forms.
Identify the best product form (liquid, gel, foaming gel, serum, lotion, cream,
powder, balm, mud, scrub) and uses of the different cosmetic items below. Note:
Choose only 5 items to answer.

Cosmetic Product: SHAMPOO

Cosmetic Product Form: FOAMING GEL
Uses:
Shampoo needs to be in the form of foaming gel since it
is designed to cleanse hair through foam.

1. Cosmetic Product:
Cosmetic Product Form:
Uses:

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2.
Cosmetic Product:
Cosmetic Product Form:
Uses:

3. Cosmetic Product:
Cosmetic Product Form:
Uses:

4. Cosmetic Product:
Cosmetic Product Form:
Uses:

5. Cosmetic Product:
Cosmetic Product Form:
Uses:

6. Cosmetic Product:
Cosmetic Product Form:
Uses:

7. Cosmetic Product:
Cosmetic Product Form:
Uses:

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 8. Cosmetic Product:
Cosmetic Product Form:
Uses:

What I Can Do

Vice Ganda, Anne Curtis, and Maine Mendoza are known Filipino artists who
formulated and owned their make-up cosmetic lines. Making a cosmetic line has
become a trend among businessmen who studied formulating cosmetic products
such as facial cream, soap, lip tints, and the like.

If you would have the chance to create your cosmetic brand, what kind of
cosmetic product would you make? Why would you choose such a product? Draw a
sample packaging design and brand name below.

Cosmetic Brand Name :

Type of Cosmetic Product :
Cosmetic Product Form :
Purpose of this Cosmetic Product:

SAMPLE COSMETIC PACKAGING DESIGN WITH BRAND NAME

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Your output will be graded using the rubric below.
Criteria Points
4 3 2 1
Planned The artwork The student The
carefully, shows that did the assignment
made the student assignment was turned
sketches, and applied the adequately, in, but
showed an principles of yet shows a showed
advanced design while lack of little
awareness of using one or planning evidence of
the elements more and little any
and principles elements evidence understand
Elements & of design. effectively. that an ing of the
Principles of Students went Student met overall element
Design above and expectations. composition and
beyond was principle of
expectations. planned. art; No
evidence of
planning.
Student did
the
minimum
of work
required.
All aspects of With a little The student Below
the artwork more effort in showed average
were finishing average craftsmans
considered techniques, craftsmansh hip, lack of
and patiently the artwork ip; pride in
completed. could be adequate, or finished
The finished outstanding. not as good product.
product is a Overall, the as the Showed
Craftsmanship result of project is student’s little
& Neatness careful, clean and previous evidence of
meticulous without abilities, a effort
planning. The major bit careless. and/or lack
craftsmanship mistakes. Minor of
is defects may understand
outstanding. be present. ing.
Project is Includes
pristine and obvious
well kept. defects,
Submitted the Submitted Submitted Submitted
finished the finished the finished the finished
product on product 1 product 2-3 product 4
the set day after the days after and more
deadline. deadline. the days after
Time
deadline. the
Management
deadline.

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 The product The product The product The
was was was product
successfully successfully partially was begun,
executed from executed successfully but never
concept to from concept executed fully
Execution,
completion, to with a few completed.
Originality
with a novel completion. unique No unique
and
and original Unique and aspects. features
Uniqueness
approach. original with and clear
some copy of
evidence other’s
from work.
samples.
All All One More than
requirements requirements requirement one
Requirements are met and are met. was not met requiremen
exceeded. completely. t was not
met.
Points x 5
=

Lesson
Cosmetic Ingredients and
2 their Functions

What’s In

In our previous lesson, you discovered how cosmetics improved through

time and what ancient people used as their cosmetics. You also learned the
importance of the viscosity of the cosmetic product in its formulation. You also had
the chance to list and identify the different cosmetic products you have at home. In
this part of the module, you will learn the different cosmetic ingredients and their
functions in the formulation.

What’s New

Any cosmetic products available in the market are

required by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
to have its INCI labels. INCI stands for “International
Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients,” a system of Reading INCI or “International

names for ingredients, botanicals, and chemicals used to Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients”

13
manufacture cosmetic products. Cosmetic labels also include the product’s shelf life,
testing procedure, manufacturer, distributor, and other properties.

However, most consumers often forget to read the cosmetic labels and know
little to nothing about products that they are using on their bodies. Some consumers
based their judgments and choices on advertisements and not on what they can see
on the cosmetic labels. These are the reasons why there are some reported cases of
allergic reactions and poisoning because of the improper usage of the products.
Understanding chemical ingredients and reading labels will help you make a better-
informed decision whenever purchasing safe cosmetic products.

Direction: Answer the following questions:

1. Do you read what is written on cosmetics packaging and labels?
2. What are the pieces of information you can find on cosmetics’ packaging and
labels?
3. What is the importance of reading cosmetic labels?

What is It
How do chemists know what to put into a formula to create a cosmetic
product? If we would try to formulate cosmetic products, we need to consider the
different ingredients and their respective functions. There are four main categories
of ingredients among cosmetics products:

a. Functional Ingredients – these are the main ingredients chosen to

perform the primary function of the cosmetic product.
b. Structural Ingredients – provide the structure and form of the product
c. Supportive ingredients – improve the stability and shelf life of the product
d. Added Extra – added in a small amount to add consumer acceptance and
to make the product more marketable

EXAMPLE:

2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner

Functional Surfactants specifically cleansing agent - to cleanse the
Ingredients hair
Hair conditioning agents - to perform its second
function
Structural Viscosity Increasing Agent – increases the thickness
Ingredients
Solvents – dissolve all the ingredients
Supportive Chelating agent – binds active ingredients to hard
ingredients water and makes the foam stable
pH Adjuster – to control the pH level
Preservatives – lengthen the shelf life of the product

14
 Added Fragrance – adds desirable scent
Extra
Colorant – to obtain a presentable color of the product
Opacifying Agent – makes the shampoo pearlescent

To complete a cosmetic formulation, you should be familiar with the

different cosmetic ingredients used to make a product. Each cosmetic ingredient
plays a vital function in the formulation.

a. Abrasives
- These are used to remove skin cells or plaque from teeth through
friction.
Examples:
o Body exfoliants/scrubs – oat kernel meal, salt, sugar, walnut
shell powder, hydrogenated jojoba wax
o Toothpaste abrasives – silica, sodium bicarbonate
b. Antioxidants
- They reduce oxidation and rancidity from occurring over time.
- They act as supportive ingredients to lengthen the shelf life of the
product.
- They are marketed as skin nurturers.
Examples:
o Vitamins – tocopherol (Vitamin E)
o Plant extracts – green tea leaf extract, chamomile flower
extract, rosemary leaf extract, and grape seed extract
c. Chelating Agents
- They are also known as sequestrants.
- They help improve the product’s stability by binding metal ions that
may be present in other raw materials.
- They are essential in foaming products as they bind ions in hard water
and prevent deterioration of the foam.
Examples: Citric acid, Disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
(EDTA) and Tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA)
d. Colorants
- These are used to give color to a product or the skin.
- Most of the colorants are synthetically made.
Examples: Acid Green, Basic Yellow, Iron oxide red, and
Chromium oxide green
e. Cosmetic Astringents
- They induce a tightening and toning effect on the skin.
- They are commonly found in skin toner, astringents, and aftershave
lotion
Examples: Alcohols and Witch hazel extract

15
f. Emulsion Stabilizer
- It stabilizes the emulsion once formed and prevents the separation of
oil and water in the emulsion.
- It also serves as a thickening agent.
Examples: Xanthan gum, Cellulose gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose,
Acrylates, alkyl acrylate cross polymer, and carbomer
g. Exfoliants
- They remove dead skin cell layers by dissolving intracellular
“cement” holding surface skin cells together.
- They are usually found in skin whitening or skin peel products in the
presence of low pH.
Examples: Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, and Salicylic acid
h. Fragrance
- This is used to enhance the products’ smell or to mask undesirable
odors/scents.
Examples: Essential oils
i. Hair Conditioning Agents
- These are used to condition and improve the hair’s appearance,
gloss, and shine while facilitating styling and reducing the static of
the hair.
- They improve the texture of the hair that has been dried through
styling, chemical exposure, or environmental drying.
Examples: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride,
Behentrimonium methosulfate, Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium
chloride, Polyquaternium-7, and Quaternium-22
j. Hair Fixatives
- They are used to hold the hair in styles in place.
Examples:
o Acrylic acid/VP cross polymer and VP/VA copolymer
k. Opacifying Agents
- They are added to shampoos and shower gels to make them appear
pearlescent.
- They provide consumers with the impression that the product is rich
and creamy.
Examples: Glycol Stearate, Propylene glycol stearate, and
Stearamide Monoethanolamine (MEA) stearate
l. pH Adjusters
- They adjust the pH of the product at the desired range.
- They can be considered as Acids (lower the pH) and bases (raise the
pH).
Examples:
o Acids – citric acid, lactic acid
o Bases – potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, and
triethanolamine
m. Preservatives
- They prevent or retard microbial growth in cosmetics.
Examples: Diazolidinyl urea, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol,

16
Propylparaben, and Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate

17
n. Skin Conditioning Agents
● Emollients- impart softness to the skin by remaining on the upper
layer of the skin and reduce flaking
Examples: Cocoglycerides, caprylic/capric triglycerides, Isopropyl
myristate, Dimethicone, and mineral oil
● Humectants – retard moisture loss by holding water within the
surface layers of the skin and drawing in moisture from the air
Examples: Glycerin, Propylene glycol, and Sodium hyaluronate
● Occlusive – blocks the evaporation of water from the surface of the
skin, keeping it moist and increasing its water content
Examples: Shea butter, Jojoba seed oil, Caprylic/capric
triglycerides, and Propylene glycol dioleate
o. Solvents
- These are liquids that are used to dissolve constituents or act as
carriers in cosmetic products.
Examples: Water, Alcohol, Butylene glycol, Glycerine, and
Propylene glycol
p. Sunscreen Agents
- They are used to protect the skin from UV radiation.
Examples: Benzophenone-3, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, titanium dioxide, and zinc oxide
q. Surfactants – They are surface-active agents and have the ability to modify
the surface of the substance.
● Cleansing Agents - produce foam and clean the surface of the skin or
hair
Examples: Cocoyl glucoside, Decyl glucoside, Cocamidopropyl
betaine, Sodium lauryl sulfate, Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, and
Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate
● Emulsifying Agents – used to mix oils and water in an emulsion
Examples: Cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, Ceteareth-20, and PEG-
100 stearate
● Solubilizers – used to dissolve substances that are usually insoluble
in a continuous medium
Examples: Laureth-20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and
Polysorbate 80
r. Viscosity Increasing Agents - Aqueous
- These thicken the water-soluble components of the product.
Examples: Agar, Xanthan gum, Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium
chloride, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acrylates, alkyl acrylate cross
polymer, and carbomer
s. Viscosity Increasing Agents – Non-Aqueous
- These thicken the oil-soluble components of the product.
Examples: Beeswax, Candelilla wax, Stearalkonium bentonite,
Microcrystalline wax, and Silica dimethyl silylate.

18
 What’s More

Activity 1

Let us make your learning more exciting and challenging. To help you recall
the different cosmetic ingredients and their function, accomplish the word puzzle
below by finding the hidden message on the bold squares and filling in the box with
correct answers using the given clues.

B
1

I
5

1
0

U
CLUES

1. Makes skin soft 7. Removes dead skin layer

2. Induces tightening and toning of
the skin
3. Holds water on the skin surface
4. Thickens the soluble component
5. Enhances the scent or odor
6. Protects the skin from UV
radiation
by dissolving the
intracellular cement
holding the skin together
8. Prevents deterioration of the
foam
9. Mixes oil and water
10. Reduces oxidation and rancidity

The hidden message is .

19
Assessment 1
Direction: Analyze the following situations below. Then, answer the following
questions:

1. Ana has had a skin problem since she was in high school. Her facial skin is
dry, and lots of acne starts to appear. What should be the main ingredients in
her skincare products to help solve her problem?
2. Cristina wants to achieve a fair complexion while protecting her skin to direct
sunlight. What cosmetic ingredients should her face cream and lotion
contain?
3. Whenever Robert shops in the market, he sees that the cosmetics he buys do
not expire quickly. What ingredients should be included in cosmetic product
labels to ensure the shelf-life and prevent microorganisms’ build-up in the
products?

Activity 2

Let us now pretend that you are a cosmetic chemist. Since you already know
the different cosmetic ingredients and their functions, complete the different
products’ cosmetic formulation below. Note: Choose five items only.

COSMETIC PRODUCT: Toothpaste

Functional Ingredients
Structural Ingredients
Supportive Ingredients
Added Extra
Toothpaste abrasive, surfactant
(cleansing agent)
A chelating agent, emulsion stabilizer,
solvent, viscosity increasing agent
pH adjuster, preservative,
Colorant, Fragrance, Opacifying agent

COSMETIC PRODUCT: Whitening Deodorant

Functional Ingredients

Structural Ingredients

Supportive Ingredients

Added Extra

20
 Anti-aging Facial Cream with
COSMETIC PRODUCT:
Moisturizer

Functional Ingredients

Structural Ingredients

Supportive Ingredients

Added Extra

COSMETIC PRODUCT: Liquid Foundation with Sunblock

Functional Ingredients

Structural Ingredients

Supportive Ingredients

Added Extra

COSMETIC PRODUCT: Exfoliating Body Scrub

Functional Ingredients

Structural Ingredients

Supportive Ingredients

Added Extra

COSMETIC PRODUCT: Perfume

Functional Ingredients

Structural Ingredients

Supportive Ingredients

Added Extra

21
 COSMETIC PRODUCT: Bath and Shower Gel

Functional Ingredients

Structural Ingredients

Supportive Ingredients

Added Extra

COSMETIC PRODUCT: Skin Peel Toner

Functional Ingredients

Structural Ingredients

Supportive Ingredients

Added Extra

Assessment 2

Direction: Answer the following questions:

1. Why is it essential to compare the cosmetic ingredients and properties of the

different brands of products?
2. What are your criteria in choosing the brand of the cosmetic products that
you use?
3. How important is the study of the different cosmetic ingredients and their
functions?

22
 What I Have Learned

Let us sum up what you have learned from this module. Choose the correct
term from the enclosed choices that should go into the blank spaces.

Cosmetics are composed of different ingredients that ensure function and

maintain marketable quality. (1) (Functional/Supportive)
ingredients are the chemicals that perform the main function of the cosmetic
product. Those chemicals that improve the shelf life of the product are called (2)
(supportive/structural) ingredients. (3)
(functional/added extra) are chemicals in small amounts that make the product
more presentable and marketable to the consumers.

Antioxidants and (4) (abrasives/preservatives) lengthen

the shelf life of a product. (5) (Astringent/Exfoliant) can be
found in whitening products because it can remove dead skin cell layers. The
cosmetic ingredient that can prevent the separation of oil and water in the emulsion
is called (6) (emulsifying agent/emulsion stabilizer).
(7) (Chelating agent/Opacifying agent) prevents the
deterioration of the foam and binds ions in the hard water. The skin conditioning
agent that can make skin soft is called (8)
(emollient/humectant). (9) (Colorant/Fragrance) can improve
product’s odor while (10) (viscosity increasing
agent/opacifying agent) makes the product becomes thicker.

23
 What I Can Do

When you try to observe the different cosmetic products packaging, you will
see a portion indicating the different ingredients used in the cosmetic formulation
like the example you can see below:

In this activity, try to test your ability by identifying the cosmetic product’s
chemical ingredients’ functions. Follow the instructions below.

a. Take two cosmetic products available at home.

b. Look for ingredients found on the cosmetic’s packaging.
c. Study the chemical composition of the products.
d. Write down the specific ingredients on your answer sheet and identify their
functions.

Example
Cosmetic Product : Dove Body Lotion
Ingredients : Water and Glycerin – Solvents
Stearic acid – Emulsifying agent
Caprylic/Capric triglyceride – Occlusive

Assessment

Directions: Read each question carefully. Choose the letter of the correct answer.
1. Which of the following is NOT a reason for Egyptians to apply oils and
ointments to their skin?
a. To soften their skin
b. To mask their body odors
c. To make presentable in the eye of their partners
d. To protect their skin against the sun, hot and dry winds

2. What is the bright green paste of copper minerals that ancient Egyptians
applied on their faces for a definition?
a. Galena mesdemet c. Malachite
b. Henna d. White lead paint

24
3. What is the ingredient used by Hindus and North Africans to paint intricate
art designs on their hands and feet?
a. Galena mesdemet c. Malachite
b. Henna d. White lead paint

4. What is the cosmetic product form specially made up of smaller molecules to

deliver high concentration of active ingredients by deeply penetrating the skin?
a. cream c. scrub
b. lotion d. serum

5. What is the cosmetic product form composed of various sized particles that
can mechanically rub off layers of skin cells?
a. balm c. mud
b. lotion d. scrub

6. Which of the following cosmetic products is highly viscous?

a. body lotion c. perfume
b. lipstick d. shampoo

7. Which of the following cosmetic products is a foaming gel?

a. Baby powder c. Skin toner
b. Lip balm d. Toothpaste

8. Which of the following cosmetic products is NOT best in liquid form?

a. Body mist c. Perfume
b. Body wash d. Skin toner

9. What is the cosmetic product form commonly used in eye shadow, blushes,
talc, and mineral-make-up?
a. Cream c. Lotion
b. Gel d. Powder

10. Which type of cream tends to have a light-after feel on the skin after
application?
a. Water in oil emulsion cream
b. Oil in water emulsion cream
c. Both of them, since they have a water content
d. None of them, since they have an oil content

11. Which cosmetic ingredient is usually found on skin whitening and peel
products that can remove dead skin layers?
a. Astringent c. Exfoliant
b. Emollient d. Humectant

25
 12. What is the cosmetic ingredient that can be used to mix oil and water?
a. Chelating agent c. Opacifying agent
b. Emulsifying agent d. Viscosity Increasing agent

13. What is the cosmetic ingredient that can bind ions in hard water?
a. Chelating agent c. Opacifying agent
b. Emulsifying agent d. Viscosity Increasing agent

14. If you want to make your cosmetic product more presentable and marketable
to target customers, what cosmetic ingredient category should you consider?
a. Added Extra c. Structural ingredients
b. Functional ingredients d. Supportive ingredients

15. If you would design the cosmetic product form giving emphasis to viscosity,
what cosmetic ingredient category should you plan carefully?
a. Added Extra c. Structural ingredients
b. Functional ingredients d. Supportive ingredients

Additional Activities

Research about five plants that can be used as cosmetic ingredients.

Enumerate their cosmetic uses and chemical compositions. Write the procedure on
how to use it as a cosmetic product.

26
 26

What I Have Learned What’s More

1. Functional 6. Emulsion stabilizer
2. Supportive 7. Chelating agent Activity 1
3. Added extra 8. Emmollient gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, egg
4. Preservative 9. Fragrance white lead paint
5. Exfoliant 10. Viscosity increasing agent malachite, galena mesdemet
henna
egg white
Assessment Lesson 2
What’s More Assessment 1
1. c 1. Possible Answers:
2. c Activity 1 for representation of social
3. b 1. Emollient classes
4. d 2. Astringent for color and definition
5. d 3. Humectant for arts, culture and
6. b 4. Viscosity increasing agent religious rituals
7. d 5. Fragrance to protect their skin
8. b 6. Sunscreen agent to mask body odor
9. d 7. Exfoliant to achieve youthful
10. b 8. Chelating agent appearance
11. c 9. Emulsifying agent 2. Cosmetic ingredients came from natural
12. b 10. Antioxidant sources like plants and eggs; easily available
13. a 3. Cosmetic ingredients nowadays are more
14. a Assessment 1 complicated chemicals tested effective and
15. c 1. Skin conditioning agent, safe on the laboratories while on ancient time,
astringent, exfoliant ingredients were easily available on the
2. Exfoliant, sunscreen agent surroundings.
3. Antioxidant, preservative
Activity 2
Answers may vary.
Activity 2
Answers may vary.
Assessment 2
Assessment 2
1. To easily dispense and to apply and to suit
Answers may vary.
customers’ perception
2. Thickening agents like gums and wax
What’s New 3. Emulsifying agent
1. Answers may vary.
2. brand name, expiration and manufacturing
date, testing procedure, cosmetic ingredients,
manufacturer and distributor and other What’s In
properties Answers may
3. to have wise and informed decision vary.
What’s New
What I Have Learned Answers may vary.
1. Shampoo – Foaming gel What I Can Do
2. Facial Serum – Serum Answers may vary.
3. Face Powder – Powder
4. Lipstick – Balm Lesson 1
5. Clay mask – Mud What I Know
6. Hair fixative gel – Gel 1. c 6. c 11. c
7. Perfume – Liquid 2. c 7. b 12. b
8. Sunscreen lotion – Lotion 3. c 8. d 13. d
9. Skin care cream – Cream 4. a 9. b 14. b
5. d 10. b 15. c

Answer Key
References

Australian Academy of Science, “The Chemistry of Cosmetics”, accessed December

8, 2020. https://www.science.org.au/curious/people-medicine/chemistry-
cosmetics
Arpita, “Beauty During The Elizabethan Times”, accessed January 5, 2021.
https://www.stylecraze.com/articles/beauty-during-the-elizabethan-
times/

Carli B. “Cosmetic Formulations: A Beginner’s Guide” accessed December 8, 2020.

https://personalcarescience.com.au/userfiles/files/Book_sample/Beginne r
%20book%20V7%20-%20SAMPLE.pdf
Cosmetic Info, “A History of Cosmetics from Ancient Times”, accessed December 8,
2020. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/Ancient-history-cosmetics

Global Data, “Cosmetics & toiletries industry in Philippines forecast to be worth

US$4.2bn in 2023”, accessed December 8, 2020.
https://www.globaldata.com/cosmetics-toiletries-industry-in-philippines-
forecast-to-be-worth-us4-2bn-in-2023-says-globaldata/
Swabey R. & Veltman M. ”The Chemistry of Cosmetics”, accessed December 8,
2020.https://atrium.lib.uoguelph.ca/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10214/309
1/Cosmetic_Chemistry_Complete_Activity_Guide.pdf?sequence=11&isAllow
ed=y

Zhu Ying, Tang Dafei and Dai Qian, “A Distant Mirror on Ancient Beauty Secrets”,
accessed January 5, 2021. https://www.shine.cn/feature/art-
culture/1912137946/

27
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