crochet

pattern
DESIGNED BY
AMI-DANAMI

Flora
Important!
This pattern is copyrighted and is intended for personal use
only.
The pattern or any parts of it may not be distributed or
resold, translated, published, altered, shared or posted in any
way.
You are welcome to sell items made using this pattern.
When publishing the photos of your finished dolI I would be
happy if youl give credit to me as the designer.
(@ami_danami or Elena Matyush).

This pattern does not contain

Difficulty level Intermediate
crochet tutorials
:

When using these materials, the

doll is 30 cm tall.
Without frame.
The doll's body consists of
several separate pieces that are
crocheted into the body in the
process. The doll turns out to be
movable, flexible and playful.
She cannot stand on her own,
but she sits on her own and can
take various postures.
It is important to note that in
order to secure a pose, you need
to secure it with pins.

1
LIST OF MATERIALS:
- Sport weight/4ply yarn of beige color:
YarnArt Jeans No.87/05 (50g/165m) or
analogue - Alize Cotton Gold No.382/67
(100g/330m),
DK Light Worsted yarn Naco Calico
No.3777 (100g/245m)
- Yarn for hair: DMC semi-wool
embroidery floss threads Riolis
(10pcs.*20m) No. 834/841/801, or any
other fine yarn. You can use Sport
weight/4ply yarn Gazzal Baby Cotton

- Crochet hook size 1.75 mm or other

comfortable and suitable hook size for
your yarn.
- Polyester toy filling: fiberfill or
synthetic filling.

- Safety pins.

- Long needle with a wide eye for

attaching hair.

- Thick plastic container lid (for insoles)

- Safety eyes size 5 mm.

- Lollipop stick or a piece of thick wire to

strengthen the neck.

2
abbreviations:
MR – magic ring
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Inc – increase (2 sc in same stitch)
Dec – decrease (I use invisible
decreases in this pattern *).
Sl st – slip stitch
* To make an ivisible decrease
insert the hook in the front loop
of your first stitch.
Now immediately insert your
hook in the front loop
of the second stitch. You now
have three loops
on your hook. Wrap the yarn
over the hook and draw
it through the first two loops on
your hook. Wrap
the yarn over again and
draw it through the two loops
remaining on your hook.

3
LEGS:
The legs are the hardest part of crocheting the whole doll.
The main difficulty in crocheting the feet. They are crocheted without
breaking the yarn and without turning. The fold is formed by
crocheting short round. So we will crochet some stitches in the round,
which are in front, through back loops with SL ST (so that there is no
piling up inside the part), and in the next round we will crochet the same
stitches through front loops with SC. So you will need to work several
rounds, by crocheting the heel at the same time.
To make the foot have a flat surface, use a plastic insole.

Tip it is better to start crocheting both legs at once and work several
:

rounds in turn This will make our legs more likely to be similar From my
. .

own experience I know that sometimes the crochet density is different ,

and places which were tight today tomorrow may be weak or vice versa
, , .

As a result one leg will be larger than the other

, .

RIGHT LEG :

1. -Ch 6.
2. - Starting from the second ch from the hook 4 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 5 sc. = 12

3. - 5 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 6 sc. = 14

4. - 14 sc. The last sc of the round is2

5. - 14 sc.
crocheted in this stitch .

6. - 14 sc.

4
7. - 1 sc, 6 sl st in the back loop, 7sc. = 14
8. - 1 sc, 6 sc in the front loop of the round 7, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 2 sc. = 16
9. - 1 sc, 6 sl st in the back loop, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc. = 19
10. - 1 sc, 6 sc in the front loop of the round 9, 12 sc. = 19
11. - 1 sc, 6 sl st in the back loop, 12 sc. = 19
12. - 1 sc, 6 sc in the front loop of the round 11, 5 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc. = 17

5
At this stage, you need to insert an insole (from thick plastic) into the foot. I have a
container lid. You can print the template or circle a contour from the monitor screen,
changing the size you want.
Or you can draw an insole yourself - circle the foot, then, stepping back 1 mm from the
edge, draw another outline inside - a smaller one (since the insole will be inside the
foot). Keep in mind that with my crochet density, the insole length is 33 mm. Cut it out of
paper first and attach it to the foot.
It is important, that after stuffing the insole ends where decreases begin.

6
13. - 1 sc, 6 sl st in the back loop, 4 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc. = 15
14. - 1 sc, 6 sc in the front loop of the round 13, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc. =14
15. -1 sc, 6 sl st in the back loop, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc. = 13
16. - 1 sc, 6 sc in the front loop of the round 15, 6 sc. = 13
17. - 1 sc, 6 sl st in the back loop, 6 sc. = 13
18. - 1 sc, 6 sc in the front loop of the round 17, 6 sc. = 13
19. - 13 sc.
Stuff the foot tightly.

20. - 7 sc, inc, 5 sc. = 14

21. - 14 sc.
22. - 14 sc.
23. - 8 sc, inc, 5 sc. = 15
24. - 15 sc.
25. - 15 sc.
26. - 9 sc, inc, 5 sc. = 16
27-29. - 16 sc. (3 rounds)
7
30. - 14 sc, dec = 15 + 3 extra sc to move the beginning of
the round.
31. - 9 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc. = 13
32. - 13 sc in the back loop only.
Stuff the leg with fiberfill tightly, but without diligence.

33. - 6 dec, 1 sc. = 7.

Cut the yarn, insert the end into the needle, pass through
each front loop, pull. Weave in the end inside the piece.

Now prepare 2 pieces for the thighs.

Start 8 sc in a MR. Crochet 8 inc = 16
Fasten off and cut the yarn. Return to the leg.

34. - Take a new thread, form a loop on the hook,

insert the hook under the first front loop of round 32.
Crochet 13 sc. Weave in the yarn ends inside the part.

8
Try to crochet this part of the leg a little looser so that the knee bends better.
35. - 3 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, dec, 1 sc. = 14 (Check that 2 increases are exactly in the center, if
necessary, move the round 35 one stitch forward.)
36. - 3 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 7 sc. = 16
37-39. - 16 sc. (3 rounds)
40. - Apply the circle, which was previously done with the front side down, aligning the
round beginning. Crochet 16 sc together through both pieces.
IMPORTANT! Do not stuff the knee with fiberfill!

41. - 2 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 5 sc. = 18

42. - 18 sc.
43. - 3 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 5 sc. = 20
44. - 20 sc.
45. - 4 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 5 sc. = 22
46. - 22 sc.
47. - 5 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 5 sc. = 24
48-54. - 24 sc. (7rounds)
55. - 24 sc, + 8 extra sc to move the beginning of the round.
Stuff the leg with fiberfill. Do not stuff the upper part of the thigh very much.
56. - Fold the piece in half. Crochet 11 sc through both sides. 9
LEFT LEG :

Crochet it mirrored to the right leg.

1. - Ch 6.
2. - Starting from the second ch from the hook 4 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 5 sc. = 12
3. - 5 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 6 sc. = 14
4-6. - 14 sc. (3 rounds)
7. - 8 sc, 6 sl st in the back loop. = 14
8. - 2 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, 6 sc in the front loop of the round 7. = 16
9. - 3 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 6 sl st in the back loop. = 19
10. - 13 sc, 6 sc in the front loop of the round 9. = 19
11. - 13 sc, 6 sl st in the back loop. = 19
12. - 5 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 6 sc in the front loop of the round 11. = 17
Insert the insole into the foot.
13. - 4 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc, 6 sl st in the back loop. = 15
14. - 4 sc, dec, 3 sc, 6 sc in the front loop of the round 13. = 14
15. - 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, 6 sl st in the back loop. = 13
16. - 7 sc, 6 sc in the front loop of the round 15. = 13
17. - 7 sc, 6 sl st in the back loop. = 13
18. - 7 sc, 6 sc in the front loop of the round 17. = 13
19. - 13 sc.
Stuff the foot tightly.
20. - 7 sc, inc, 5 sc. = 14
21. - 14 sc.
22. - 14 sc.
23. - 8 sc, inc, 5 sc. = 15
24. - 15 sc.
25. - 15 sc.
26. - 9 sc, inc, 5 sc. = 16
27- 29. - 16 sc. (3 rounds)
30. - 5 sc, dec, 9 sc. = 15
31. - 3 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 7 sc. = 13
Crochet + 1 extra sc to move
the beginning of the round.
32. - 13 sc in the back loop only.
Stuff the foot tightly.
33. - 6 dec, 1 sc. = 7. Cut the yarn, insert the end
into the needle, pass through each front loop, pull.
Weave in the ends inside the piece.
10
34. - Take a new thread, form a loop on the hook,
insert the hook under the first front loop
of round 32. Crochet 13 sc.
35. - 3 sc, dec, 5 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc. = 14
(Check that 2 increases are exactly in the center,
if necessary, move the round 35 one stitch forward.)
36. - 9 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc. = 16
37. - 16 sc.
38. - 16 sc.
39. - 16 sc.
40. - Apply the second circle, which was previously
done with the front side down, aligning the round
beginning. Crochet 16 sc together through both pieces.
Important Do not stuff this part of the leg
! ,

it remains empty for the knee to bend .

41. - Inc, 7 sc, inc, 7 sc. = 18

42. - 18 sc.
43. - 1 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 7 sc. = 20
44. - 20 sc.
45. - 2 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 7 sc. = 22
46. - 22 sc.
47. - 3 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 7 sc. = 24
48-54. - 24 sc. (7 rounds)
55. - 24 sc, + 17 extra sc to move the beginning of the round.
Stuff the leg with fiberfill. Do not stuff the upper part of the thigh very much.
56. - Fold the piece in half. Crochet 11 sc through both sides.

After crocheting both legs you need to crochet the arms because we will crochet the
, ,

legs and arms into the body .

11
ARMS:
1. -Start6 sc in a MR .
2. - 6 = 12
inc

3-5. - 12 . (3 sc rounds )
6. - 1bobble stitch in the first stitch one round below *, 3 ,
sc dec ,4 , sc dec . = 10
* , ,
Insert the hook one round below yarn over draw a loop yarn over repeat , , 2 more

.
times There are 6 .
loops on the hook Yarn over and stretch the yarn through all the

loops on the hook .

7. - 4 ,
sc dec ,4 .=9
sc 15. - 12 sc .
8. - 9 sc. 16. - 3 ,
sc inc , 8 . = 13
sc

9. - 9 sc. 17. - 13 sc .
10. - Inc ,8 sc . = 10 18. - 13 sc .
11. - 10 sc . 19. - 3 ,
sc dec , 8 . = 12
sc

12. - 1 ,
sc inc , 8 . = 11
sc Stuff the hand leaving some,
13. - 11 sc . free space on the top .
14. - 2 ,
sc inc , 8 . = 12
sc

12
 20. - 2 sc, fold the hand in half, crochet 5 sc, inserting a hook through both loops in front
and through back loops only at the back. Next, crochet 7 sc through the remaining front
loops on the other side of the hand. (Also crochet the first and last 7th stitch through
the front loops. These loops are at the turn)
Place a marker of the round beginning here.

21. - 12 sc.
22. - 2 sc, inc, 9 sc. = 13
23-29. - 13 sc. (7 rounds)
30. - 5 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. = 11
For the left arm: - 2 sc,
dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc.
31. - 11 sc.
32. - 11 sc.
Do not stuff the upper part
of the hand completely.

33. - 5 sc. For the left arm: - 10 sc.

Fold in half, crochet 5 sc through both sides.
13
 BODY:
1. - Ch 20.
2. - Starting from the second ch from the hook 18 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 18 sc, 3 sc in one
stitch. = 42 (The last 3 sc are crocheted in this stitch)
3. - 18 sc, 3 inc, 18 sc, 3 inc. = 48
4. - 19 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc. = 54
5. – Join the legs in this round. 25 sc, 11 sc with the left leg,
1 sc, 11 sc with the right leg, 6 sc. = 54
6. - 54 sc.
7. - 54 sc.
8. - 54 sc.
9. - 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 39 sc. = 52
10. - 46 sc. Do not crochet the last 6 stitches of the round.
Place a marker of the round beginning here.

14
11. - Dec, 26 sc, dec, 22 sc. = 50
12. - 50 sc.
13. - Dec, 25 sc, dec, 21 sc. = 48
14. - 47 sc. (Do not crochet the last stitch to move the beginning
of the round)
15. - Dec, 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 19 sc. = 44
16. - 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 26 sc. = 42
17. - Dec, 5 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 18 sc. = 38
Decreases on the back are specially distributed so that the
" seams are even and symmetrical so be careful with
" ,

stitches.

18. - 37 sc. (Do not crochet the last stitch to move the beginning
of the round)
19. - Dec, 4 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 16 sc. = 34
20. - 34 sc.
21. - Dec, 3 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 15 sc. = 30
22. - 29 sc. (Do not crochet the last stitch to move the
beginning of the round)
23. - Dec, 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 13 sc. = 26
24-32. - 26 sc. (9 rounds)
Stuff the bottom part of the body.

15
It's time to join the arms.
I purposely place the arms not exactly on the sides, but slightly shifted
towards the shoulder blades. This will give the doll a beautiful posture.
Take sewing pins and outline the arms: leave 5 stitches for the right arm, 6
stitches for the back, 5 stitches for the left arm, and 10 stitches for the
front. Check if everything is the same with you. If not, then move 1 stitch
forward or backward. The main thing is that the beginning of the round is
before joining the right arm.

33. - Apply the right arm to the body and crochet 5 sc on the arm and body,
6 sc on the back, apply the second arm – 5 sc, 9 sc. Do not crochet 1 sc in
front. Place a marker of the round beginning here.
34. - Dec, 3 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc. = 20
35. - Dec, 1 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc. = 14
36-38. - 14 sc. (3 rounds)
Do not cut the yarn, continue crocheting the head.
Stuff the upper body tightly with fiberfill.

16
HEAD:
Important! Check that the last 4 stitches on the neck are exactly centered.
We will make increases in these stitches. Due to these increases, the head will have
an anatomical shape. Not a sphere with a neck in the middle, but with a shifting
forward, forming a chin.

1. - 10 sc, 4 inc. =18

2. - (1 sc, inc)*9 = 27
3. - (2 sc, inc)*9 = 36
4. - (5 sc, inc)*6 = 42
5. - (6 sc, inc)*6 = 48
6-9. - 48 sc. (4 rounds)

Now you need to make the decreases to form the

cheeks. It is advisable to outline with pins and check if
everything coincides with you. There should be 4 stitches
in the center - there will be 2 decreases for the nose.

10. - 29 sc, 3 dec, 2 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec. (The last

decrease grab the first stitch of the next round. The
round beginning moves 1 stitch forward.)

17
 Because the canvas is crocheted tightly enough, then it will be very difficult to insert
the eyes between the stitches. Therefore, I leave space for them – skip stitch. So in the
places where we will place eyes, crochet not SC, but CH1.

11. - 29 sc, ch1, skip one stitch, 8 sc, ch1, skip one stitch, 1 sc. = 40
12-19. - 40 sc. (8 rounds)

Approximately after round 14, you can insert eyes,

secure from the inside.
After that, I immediately embroider whites of the eyes
and eyelashes.
So it is much easier to insert a needle into the right point
than to do it on a stuffed head.
Plus, all the threads are fixed and remain inside.
I use the same 4ply yarn as for the body – YarnArt Jeans /
Alize Cotton gold.
Take a thread of white / milky color, insert it into a needle with a wide eye.
Insert the needle from the inside out as close to the eye as possible (as shown in the
photo) and make just one stitch. Fix the tips from the inside.

18
Now embroider the second eye in the same way.

Take a black thread. I use DMC cotton embroidery floss (in 6 strands). Make two
stitches with a slight overlap.
Fix the thread from the inside.

Embroider the second eye in the same way.

19
 To keep the head from
loosening, you need to
strengthen the neck.
I use a lollipop plastic stick.
It is quite firm and elastic.
I do not recommend using
cotton swabs, because they
are much thinner and will
bend or break quickly.

To make the stick fit better, take a knitting needle and make
a deepening in the neck. Cut off the part with the hole and
leave 6-6.5 cm of the stick.
Insert into the neck so that one half is in the body and the
other half is in the head. Stuff the neck tightly around this
stick.
,
If you want the doll to tilt its head then you can take a

,
piece of thick wire about 8 ,
cm round off on both ends

and insert into the neck instead of a stick .

20. - (8 sc, dec.)*4 = 36

21. - (Dec, 4 sc.)*6 = 30
22. - (Dec, 3 sc.)*6 = 24
Stuff the head. Pay special
attention to the cheeks and
nose.
23. - (Dec, 2 sc.)*6 = 18
24. - (Dec, 1 sc.)*6 = 12
25. - 6 dec. = 6
20
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail. We will embroider a nose with it. Stretch the yarn tail
with a hook or needle through the front loops of the last 6 stitches and pull tightly.

Thread the yarn tail into a long needle. Insert it at the crown to the very center and exit
it through the place for the nose (in the place where 2 central decreases were). Make
a few stitches. Use a pair of pliers to exit the needle through the back of the head, fix
and hide the ends inside.

21
22
23
HAIR:
To make the doll's hair, I used DMC semi-wool
embroidery threads - Riolis. A thin thread in
several folds works well for the hair. The
hairstyle looks natural, without excess
volume.
It takes 1 pack of Riolis threads (10 pcs.) for
one doll.

You can also use classic DMC cotton

embroidery floss mouline or any other yarn,
but preferably not thick, for example 4ply
yarn Gazzal baby cotton. It is slightly thinner
than YarnArt Jeans or Alize Cotton gold and
differs in texture from them.
Also hair from thin mohair for example Alize
Kid Mohair Royal or fluffy yarn Alize Naturelle
looks very beautiful.
Riolis thread roll is a bit short for ready-made
use. Therefore, you need to carefully rewind
the strings on a notebook or book that
matches the length of your hair.
To prevent the thread from getting tangled,
put the skein on your right hand, and as you
wind it, it will scroll on your hand and gently
unwind.

Do not wind all 10 skeins at once, but take, for

example, 2 skeins longer on the top of the
head, wind 3 more skeins of strands a little
shorter, 3 others skeins a little shorter, and the
last skein - cut into strands as it is...

24
You can take red threads and
decorate the doll in the style of
Elizabeth Harmon. Look, it is
enough just to attach the skein to
the head, as the image immediately
begins to be guessed. This is
exactly what I have with my first
doll.

But! It is important to take into

account that in the photo, the hair
is simply styled, which creates the
appearance of a short haircut.
If you still decide to make short
hair, then you still need to make the
strands longer, and then just cut it.
Because short strands are very
difficult to sew with a needle.

For our doll, I use color No. 834, light

brown.
We will fasten the hair with a needle.
Fasten each strand on the head with
several stitches. This is a very time
consuming but not complicated
process. Hair, made in this way, lies on
the head very evenly, does not stand
upright, does not turn out too thick (as
with fringe fastening) and leave no
bald spots. You can divide hair into
parting and make a variety of
hairstyles.
If this option of attaching the hair
seems difficult to you, then you can
make the hair in any convenient way
for you, or the way you are used to.
25
First, outline the hairline with pins.
Let's start with the front hairline. Thread a strand of three threads into the needle,
insert the needle from the bottom up and exit it 2 rounds further. Pull out the thread so
that both ends are about the same length. Insert the needle again at the place of the
starting point and make a stitch. Insert the needle again at the beginning of the stitch,
but exit it through the middle - between 2 rounds. Pull out the thread and remove the
needle. The first strand is ready. With this fastening, the thread is held quite tightly
without any knots. Pulling out such a strand by one or the other end simply will not work.
You need to make a lot of effort in order to make it loose.

26
Thread the next strand and repeat the same steps into the next stitch ,

and so on .

Thus threads come out between stitches and they cover the skin of
, , " "

the head .

If a couple of stitches are not enough make an additional stitch so that

,

there are no bald spots .

Continue to embroider the first round Make the stitches so that they
.

look in the center

.

Now we need to embroider the center of the crown Also make .

stitches to the center and not along the parting so that the head does
, ,

not shine through Try to keep a hair between each stitch

. .

Then continue to embroider in rows in a semicircle .

After embroidering the top of the head it will be easier to sew not
,

from bottom to top but vice versa from top to bottom starting from
, ,

the center strand .

27
28
DESIGNED BY
AMI-DANAMI