ARTB01

ARCHITECTURAL BUILDING MATERIALS

RESEARCH NO. 18
Flooring Materials

In partial fulfilment for the requirement in the degree of Bachelor of Science

In Architecture

Submitted to:

Ar. REYMAR G. BURLUNGAN

Submitted by:

Saylon, Efraine Andrea D.

BSA-1C
 DEFINITION OF TERMS
“Flooring Materials” is the general term referring to a permanent covering
of a floor or for the work of installing floor covering. Both terms, flooring
Flooring Materials
materials and floor covering, are used interchangeably but floor covering
refers more to lose-laid materials.
Tiles are flat or curved piece of heated clay, stone or concrete used
especially for roofs, floors and walls and often as an ornamental work.
Tiles
Another definition is that these are hollow or semicircular and often
earthenware or concrete pieces used in constructing a drain.
Finish Floor The wearing surface of a floor, usually laid over a subfloor.
A base for a finish floor, consisting of boards, plywood, or other structural
sheathing laid over and faced to the floor joists. A subfloor is often used as
Subfloor a working platform during construction and may also act as a structural
diaphragm to transfer lateral loads to shear walls. This is also called as blind
floor or rough floor.

FLOORING MATERIAL CLASSIFICATION

Material Definition Image
WOOD FLOORING Wood Flooring is both made with softwood and hardwood.
TYPES OF WOOD FLOORING

This refers to lumber that has

been cut from a coniferous or an
Softwood evergreen tree. This type of
wood is commonly used as
building material.
 Standard strips are used for residences,
offices and schools. Heavy strips are
Strip Flooring
used for industrial uses, bowling alleys
and dance floors.
STANDARD STRIP

HEAVY STRIP

This material is Kiln-dried and

made with tongue-and-groove
edges and ends usually has a
channeled or grooves bottom
surface

This consist of blocks or fillets of various

Parquet Flooring hardwood sizes which can be laid in

Hardwood different patterns.

 PARQUET FLOORING DESIGN

Floor blocks are individual pieces of

Block Flooring wood with edge-grain face mad in a
number of sizes
 Concrete Flooring is done with the best workmanship and materials since
CONCRETE
they are subjected to every kind of wear and abuse like impact, abrasion, and
FLOORING
attack by salts and aggressive liquids.
TYPES OF CONCRETE FLOORING
These are made through forcing
the concrete into molds by
hydraulic pressure and allowing it
to set and cure. Sometimes tiles
are made in two layers. The
upper one being made of mortar
with white cement and marble

Cement Tile chips as aggregate. The upper

layer can also be made of
colored mortar.

This can be finished to produce a

non-skid surface. Non-skid
surfaces can also be produced
by using abrasion.
Metallic-aggregate
Topping
 These are produced by adding
inorganic coloring agent to the
topping mix or by shaking it over
the surface and floating it into the
top. One type of coloring agent

Colored Concrete consist of mineral oxides in

Flooring powder form.

CLAY TILE FLOORING Clay Tiles are made by a process similar to manufacturing brick.
TYPES OF CLAY TILE FLOORING

This is a type of tile composed of

ceramic materials fused into the
body of the Tile. The body maybe
Glazed Tile
non-vitreous, semi-vitreous or
impervious and either white and
colored.

This is a hard dense ceramic tie

for floors and walls of
homogeneous composition
Unglazed Tile throughout. It derives its color
and texture from the materials of
which the body is made and from
the method of manufacture.
 This is an extremely durable flooring material. This is suitable to withstand
ASPHALT FLOORING
heavy foot traffic.
TYPES OF ASPHALT FLOORING

Made by mixing an emulsified

asphalt with Portland cement,
Asphalt Mastic Flooring
aggregates, or crushed to form a
plastic mixture.

These are composed of asbestos

Asphaltic Tiles fibers bound together by a blend
of selected asphaltic binders.

Marble aggregate concrete that

is cast in place or precast and
TERRAZO FLOORING
ground smooth, used as
decorative flooring.

These are used in several typed of flooring including plastic Terrazzo plastic
PLASTIC FLOORING
topping, vinyl-plastic tiles, vinyl asbestos tiles and vinyl-cushioned flooring.
TYPES OF PLASTIC FLOORING

Epoxy Resin is used instead of

Portland cement paste as a
binder for marble chips as a
Plastic Terrazzo mixture of a liquid Epoxy Resin,
inert filler pigment and color
pigment is used as the resin
component.
 This is used to produce floor
toppings in a variety of colors.
The liquid resin, color pigment
Epoxy Resin
and curing agent are mixed and
spread over the surface in
thicknesses of ¼ to ½ inch.

These are made with a layer of

vinyl plastic bonded to a flexible
backing. These are laid in vinyl
Vinyl Tile
cement. For concrete floors on
grade, a special waterproof
cement is used.

Tiles are made a composition of

thermoplastic vinyl and
Vinyl Asbestos plasticizer asbestos fibers,
pigments and filler. There are
mixed hot and form into sheets.

These are layer constructions.

The rolls are done in such a way
Vinyl Inlaid wear that vinyl chips or cubes are
inlaid, embedded and bonded
together by clear vinyl mortar.
 Magnesite Flooring is applied
over either a wood or concrete
base. Sometimes metal lath is
MAGNESITE laid over a wood base to produce
FLOORING a better bond. Marble chips may
be added to the freshly poured
surface and rolled in to produce
magnesite terrazzo.

These come in the form of tiles.

Synthetic rubber is used since it
RUBBER FLOORING
has less tendency to oxidize than
natural rubber.

CORK FLOORING This is used as a basic ingredient in two types of flooring.

TYPES OF CORK FLOORING
Linseed oil is used as the binder in the manufacture of linoleum. It is oxidized
by air treatment until it becomes a tough plastic substance and is somewhat
like rubber.

Linoleum

Plain
 Inlaid

Plain (cement abused)

Waterproof

This is made by mixing cork

shavings with resin and
Cork Tile compressing the plastic mixture
into molds. Tiles are baked to set
the resin.
 Resilient Floorings

Pea-sized sandstones or
pebbles are mixed with cement
PEBBLE WASHOUT mortar. This is spread on the
surface with or without brass
strips.

This is an expensive flooring

from Marble Stone Cut into one
MARBLE inch thick and other sizes. This is
laid on the floor with white
cement.

Odd shaped broken one inch

thick marble is laid out on the
floor with mortar. After which the
spaces in between will be-filled
CRAZY CUT MARBLE with granulithic a mixture of
granite chips of white cement.
When the setting has hardened
the floor is smoothened by using
a grinding machine then waxed.
 TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT USED IN FLOORING
TOOLS & EQUIPMENT USES IMAGE
These have rounded edges that
won't dig out the freshly applied
grout. You'll use the dampened
Sponges grout sponge to wipe away
excess grout residue off the tile
once you finish working it into the
cracks.
This is used to spread adhesive
and thin set. It differs from a
regular trowel in that it has
Notched trowel
notches, usually on two sides of
the blade. Tile and flooring
installers use notched trowels.
This has a pump that sprays
water onto the tile as you're
cutting. This keeps the tile cool
and prevents cracks. The blade
does not have teeth, which
Wet saw
allows it to be used for delicate
materials. A wet saw also makes
quick work of a large project,
versus a snap cutter, and can
be used for specialty cuts.
This is a flexible ruler used
to measure size or distance. It
consists of a ribbon of cloth,
Tape measure
plastic, fiber glass, or metal strip
with linear measurement
markings.
 This box is a tool for marking
long, straight lines on relatively
flat surfaces, much farther than is
practical by hand or with a
Chalk line straightedge. They may
be used to lay out straight lines
between two points, or
vertical lines by using the weight
of the line reel as a plumb line.
This is used for thick
epoxy floor coats (at a minimum
of 1mm (1/24 “) in thickness. In
resinous floors the
spiked roller serves two main
Floor roller
purposes. 1. The first purpose is
to eliminate and burst bubbles,
pinholes and other pockets of
gas that may be present in the
screed.
This is good for chopping smaller
foods and vegetables, like
shallots. It shares many of the
qualities of a chef knife, but it can
Utility knife
be a useful tool when working
with smaller food items, as
the utility knife allows for more
precise cutting work.

APPLICATION AND INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION OF LAMINATE FLOORING
Remove Tongue. Inspect each plank before beginning installation. For the first row
STEP 1 along straight walls, remove the tongue on all long side joints and the short side of the
first plank using a table saw.
Trace and Cut. For uneven walls, trace contour with a compass on the tongue side of
STEP 2
the plank, and cut with a jigsaw.
 Assemble First Row. Assemble the first row with tongue side way from the wall. Insert
STEP 3 the end tongue into the end groove and rotate downward to assemble. Keep planks
aligned and joints closed
Provide Space for Expansion. Provide a 3/8” space for expansion on all sides using
STEP 4
wooden spacers. Note: Two spacers, thick-side to thick-side, are 3/8”.
Cut for New Rows. Cut the first piece at least 8” long using a table saw. Start new
STEP 5 rows using pieces trimmed from the previous row, ensuring at least a 12” end joint
offset.
Assemble Second Row. Insert the tongue of the second-row plank into the groove of
the first-row plank at a slight angle until the laminate edges meet. Next, rotate down
until the joints lock. For the next plank, join the short end of the plank first . You will see
STEP 6 a gap on the long-side joints when the plank is rotated down. Raise the outside edge
of the plank upward approximately 1”. Keep this angle as you push the plank in until
the laminate edges meet. Rotate downward on the plank until the joint locks . Repeat
previous steps to complete installation.
Try This Alternative Method. Align tongues into the grooves of the long and short
sides of the planks. Install the long side first by placing a tapping block no closer than
STEP 7
8” from either end. Tap lightly along the long side until the joint is closed tightly . Next,
tap the end using the tapping block into a locked position
Check for Gap. Use a tape measure to ensure there is a 3/8” gap (after the joint is
STEP 8
closed) from the wall to allow for expansion.
Install Last Row. Align the plank you'll connect to the second to last row. Using a full-
width plank as a spacer, trace the contour of the wall, and cut the plank to size. Install
the long side tongue into the groove with the end joint aligned. Work evenly along the
STEP 9
length of the plank, and lightly tap the joint closed using a pull bar and rubber mallet.
After tapping the long side joint closed, tap the short side closed using a tapping block
or pull bar. Remove all spacers
Apply Sealant. Apply a flexible, 100-percent silicone sealant to the entire perimeter to
STEP 10
create a watertight seal.
INSTALLATION OF HARDWOOD FLOORING
Prepare the Area. A person pre-drilling nail holes.For your first row, you’ll want the
straightest planks, arranged with the tongue side facing the center of the room. Place
STEP 1
spacers inside the expansion gap, the space between the wall and floor that allows the
wood to expand from heat and humidity. Predrill nail holes 1/4 inch from the narrow
 side of the plank at 1/2 inch from the wall. Continue at 6-inch intervals for the length of
each board.
Countersink the Nails. Countersinking a nail because the pneumatic nailer is hard to
maneuver near the wall, face-nail the first few boards in place. Countersink the nails
STEP 2 with a nail punch and fill the remaining hole with matching putty. Then blind-nail at a
45-degree angle through the tongue. Make sure to countersink the nail so it doesn't
interfere with the board-to-board connection.
Fit and Lock the Boards. Tapping boards together with a mallet, On the second row,
lock the tongue and groove, and tap them together with a mallet and block for a tight
STEP 3
fit between the boards. Stagger the ends of adjoining boards by at least 6 inches,
cutting the end board if needed to create a stronger, more attractive flooring pattern.
Use a Flooring Nailer. Pneumatic nailer on partially intalled hardwood floor blind-nail
the second row through the tongue and repeat the process until you’re able to use the
STEP 4 flooring nailer. The flooring nailer requires room to work, so it typically can't be used
until two to four rows have been installed. When using a flooring nailer, be sure to install
the nailer's protective boot to protect the flooring.
Finish Hardwood Floor Installation. Wood glue floating in the groove of a small final
STEP 5
piece of solid hardwood flooring.
Install the Transition Pieces
A person re-attaching baseboards and moulding.
STEP 6 Install the transition pieces according to the manufacturer’s instructions and remove
the spacers. Cut the underlayment and reattach the baseboards and shoe molding to
the wall, not the floor.
 PRICES AVAILABLE IN THE MARKET
Price
Product Name SIzes
Per piece Per box
60x60 ₱180-350 ₱720-1500
50x50 ₱150-250
40x40 ₱70-100 ₱335.95-469.92
Ceramic tile 30x30 ₱65-85 ₱369.40-450.00
30x60 ₱45-60 ₱621.95
20x30 ₱20-50
20x20 ₱15-20 ₱108-116.28
COLOR FAMILY SIZE PRICE
90266-Taum 610x123mm ₱400.00
30261-Birch 610x95mm ₱400.00
Solid Wood Flooring 13161-Cumaru 610x95mm ₱400.00
10162-Odum 610x93mm ₱400.00
40261-Birch 610x123mm ₱400.00
13266-Cumaru 610x95mm ₱400.00
2 yards ₱320
3 yards ₱471
4 yards ₱640
5 yards ₱784
GRAY W/ LINING 6 yards ₱941
7 yards ₱1,120
8 yards ₱1,280
9 yards ₱1,440
10 yards ₱1,600
2 yards ₱320
Korean Haspe Linoleum
Matte Gray 3 yards ₱480
4 yards ₱640
5 yards ₱800
DARK GRAY MATTE 6 yards ₱960
7 yards ₱1,120
8 yards ₱1,280
9 yards ₱1,440
10 yards ₱1,600
2 yards ₱320
3 yards ₱480
VARNISH MATTE
4 yards ₱628
5 yards ₱784
 6 yards ₱960
7 yards ₱1,098
8 yards ₱1,255
9 yards ₱1,440
10 yards ₱1,568
2 yards ₱320
3 yards ₱480
4 yards ₱628
5 yards ₱784
L. Gray Brownish 6 yards ₱941
7 yards ₱1,098
8 yards ₱1,255
9 yards ₱1,412
10 yards ₱1,568

BRANDS AVAILABLE IN THE MARKET

BRAND’S NAME LOGO

Mariwasa Tiles

Ten Zen Tiles

Euro tiles
Lepanto Tiles

Haus
 ARTB01
ARCHITECTURAL BUILDING MATERIALS

RESEARCH NO. 19
Walling Materials

In partial fulfilment for the requirement in the degree of Bachelor of Science

In Architecture

Submitted to:

Ar. REYMAR G. BURLUNGAN

Submitted by:

Saylon, Efraine Andrea D.

BSA-1C
 DEFINITION OF TERMS
Any of various upright constructions presenting a continuous surface and
Wall
serving to enclose, divide, or protect an area.
Materials used in wall construction such as bricks, stones, concrete and clay
Walling materials blocks, cast-in-place concrete, rammed earth, sods, lumber sleepers, steel
sheets, gabions and earth-filled structures.
A wall forming part of the envelope of a building, having one face exposed to
Exterior Wall
the weather or to earth. This is also called as the external wall.
Interior Wall Any wall within a building, entirely surrounded by exterior walls.

WALLING MATERIAL CLASSIFICIATION

INTERIOR WALL FINISHING MATERIALS
Material Definition Image

It is a decorative treatment done

with wooden panels on the walls
in various designs. The materials
Wood Finishes
used can be plywood or wood
covered with veneers or
laminates.

TWO BASIC GROUPS OF WOOD FINISHES

A. To cover walls and ceilings
Solid wood
Those in the form of boards which are ¼, 3/8. ½ and 1 in. thickness
and widths of from two to twelve inches and lengths of four to ten
feet. The face of the boards may be plain, saw-textured, and V-
grooved or channeled and edges may be square or tongue-and-
groove.
 Made from variety of soft wood
and hardwoods, kiln dried, and
edge-glued to form sheets which
are usually 1 in. thick, 3ft. wide,
Wood sheets
and 8ft. long, in a variety of face
patterns. Surfaces are sanded
and sheets may be factory
sealed and prefinished.

One way of attachment to

studding is by leaving a 1/4" inch
Plywood space using edge of plywood or
a 4” C.W. nail to separate edges
to give an effect of planking.
B. Those used as trim materials around door and window openings, as baseboards and as various
decorative moldings
TYPES OF DECORATIVE MOULDINGS

Gypsum Finishers are considered as the best known type of interior

wall finish produced by plaster in which gypsum is one of the basic
Gypsum Finishers ingredient. Plaster surfaces can be troweled smooth, stippled or
sand-finished and can be applied over gypsum lath, metal lath, and
fiberboard plaster base or directly over a masonry surface.
 TYPES OF PLASTER FINISHES

Clay products of all kinds can be used for interior finishing. They
Clay Finishes include common brick, face brick, glazed brick, structural tile, glazed
tile, ceramic veneer, ceramic wall tile and ceramic mosaic.
TYPES OF CLAY FINISHES

Usually used for interior work to

produce a rustic or roughcast
Common Brick
effect often emphasized with
extruded mortar joints.

TYPES OF COMMON BRICK WALL PATTERNS

 Ceramic tile having a fused
impervious glazed surface finish
composed of ceramic materials
fused into the body of the tile.
The body may be non-vitreous,
semi-vitreous, or impervious.
These are tiles that are used in
kitchens, bathrooms,
Glazed Tile washrooms, laboratories, for a
Ceramic wall tile feature wall, or a dado or
wainscot with another material
covering the upper part of the
wall.
Small pieces of plain or colored
tile mounted on a paper of cloth
Ceramic Mosaic
net-backing. This is commonly
used for similar purposes
TYPES OF GLAZED TILE ACCESSORY

Produced by using solid stone

Stone Finishes walls and exposing the interior as
well as the exterior surface.
 This is the result of the process
of compacting, levelling and
Concrete Finishes
smoothing the surface of the
concrete.

This comes in form of a panel

screen and used as a wall
paneling, ceiling, ventilation,
movable room divider and
Wood Slats or wood grilles
others. These are available in a
fine selection of kiln-dried
Philippine woods in standard and
special design perforated panels.

This is produced in a wide range

of wood grain, fabric, stone, brick
and mural patterns. Wall papers
Wall Paper are produced in single and
double rolls of 20 to 36 inches
wide containing 36 sq. feet per
single roll.

It also comes in plain colors,

prints wood grain, mural patterns
or with texture, and about a
Wall Covering
thousand different designs and
colors or even photograph and
view effects.
 Glass is used for finishing inside
rooms. For light-diffusing or light-
directing, glass blocks are used.
Glass
For interior partitions, room
dividers and screens, structural
glass is used.

Steel wall tiles are made from

thin-gauge sheet steel to give
Steel them rigidity and coated with
porcelain enamel in a full range
of colors.

Aluminum, copper and zinc are

also used to make wall tiles.
Copper tiles are usually supplied
Non-ferrous metals with a burnished finish, while
Aluminum tile may be enameled
or anodized. Zinc tiles are
chrome plated.
 Plastic wall tiles in 4 ¼ and 8 ½
inches squares are made from
polystyrene and urea-
Plastics
formaldehyde resins in a range
of colors. They are applied with
special adhesives.

These are used to cover

unsightly surfaces to provide
decoration and to prevent
Paints
absorption of moisture in the
wall, to act as vapor barrier and
to provide a washable surface.

WALLING MATERIAL CLASSIFICIATION

TYPES OF WALLS
1. One made of a framework of studs and plates and having the upper floor frame, the ceiling frame
and the roof frame attached to it.
2. The second type that consists of a frame wall of wooden or steel arches, rigid frames or A frames,
which constituted both wall and roof framework.

3. A solid unit consisting of some type of masonry, hollow block walls or solid concrete wall.

4. A wall found in large building, where the entire skeleton of the building is made from heavy
timbers, steel or reinforced concrete.
 WALLING MATERIAL CLASSIFICIATION
EXTERIOR WALL FINISHING MATERIALS
Material Definition Image

A type of plaster made with

Portland cement which is applied
Stucco to exterior surfaces from a finish
coating. This finish coating is used
to produce textures.

This is done either by using regular

brick laid up to produce four-inch
Brick Veneer
thick veneer, or by using thin slabs
of manufactured brick.

This is sometimes called cast

stone, made by casting colored
Artificial Stone
mortar into molds which turn out
Veneer
units having faces resembling
roughhewn stone.

Thin slabs of some natural stones

such as sandstone, lime· stone,
river stone, adobe, gray and black
Natural Stone
Kennon stone, slate etc. with either
Veneer
regular or irregular dimensions are
laid up in a mortar bed in the· same
way as artificial stone or brick.
 Most commonly used. For
Terra-cotta Facing buildings with light frame walls is
known as Vitrolite.

The common wood species used

for sidings are Tanguile or
Wood Siding pinewood. This is manufactured
either in Tongue-and-Groove, S-
Cut or V-Cut, Rizal Cut.

These are made of pre-painted,

baked-on zinc coated galvanized
iron used in curtain wall panels.
Metal
Steel, stainless steel, aluminum,
galvanized iron, copper and brass
are metals commonly used.

Marine plywood or waterproofed

plywood are used either in its full
Plywood exterior size of 4 x 8 ft. with the long edges
Finish and the joints covered with batten
or it can be cut in strips and applied
horizontally.
 This material is made from ½ inch
Insulating fiberboard
fiberboard with one face covered
Siding
with a heavy coating of asphalt.

Tempered hardboard cut in 12 and

Hardboard siding 16 inched strips of 4, 8 and 12 feet
long and used as a siding.

Asbestos-cement-siding boards
are made in stripe 12 inches wide,
48 inches long, and 3/16 thick with
Asbestos-cement
a smooth face and straight edges.
siding and siding
The shingles are 12 x 24 in. with
shingles
deep vertical wood-grain pattern
on the face and a wavy bottom
edge.

Materials which are fastened to the

frame and carry no structural loads
Curtain Walls
themselves. The steel frame wall
and floor decks carry the load.
 The wall can be made of face brick
Brick over a backup wall of common
brick, clay tile or concrete block.

Concrete walls may be finished

With either pebble washout, glass
Washout finishes
washout, or even shell and granite
washout.

The final coat is cement plaster

mixed with grounded adobe
Synthetic Adobe,
stones, grounded brick waste,
Brick
sometimes mixed with pebbles
and sea shells for effect.

The final finish is done by mixing

plaster with colored cement or just
plain cement. This is placed in a
sandblasting contraption which
Sandblasting
can be made at the site. When the
handle is turned, the plaster mix is
blasted and forced to adhere to the
concrete backup wall.
 Comes from medium-sized trunks
Logs of trees which is either half log or
slabs or full trunk.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT USED IN WALLING INSTALLATION

Tool & Equipment Use Image
It can help chip out chunks of
plaster and to re-secure or remove
problem pieces of lath. Drywall
Hammer Hammers have hatchet-style ends
and curved faces for dimpling high
spots, making them extremely
useful on a plastering job.

Wood lath was used for

generations of plasterers. It
requires a large handsaw for
Handsaw
cutting the thin, narrow strips of
wood that serve as a groundwork
for plaster.

This knocks down the high points or

Spackle Knife chips of old plaster before you start
applying the new mud.
 This is used for cleaning the waste
exerted by the process of plastering
Bucket
the wall and putting other walling
materials.

Utility Knife

Paddle mixers clamp into a drill

chucks and make mixing bucket of
Paddle Mixer
plaster a much faster, less back-
breaking job.

Bucket trowels have angled

Bucket Trowel handles and wide surfaces for
scooping the mix out.

This helps the plasterer get the

Hawk mud onto a trowel evenly and
cleanly.
 Trowel

This will be helpful in smoothening

Paint Brush
the plaster job.

APPLICATION METHODOLOGY OF WALL COVERING

Mix wall covering paste with water and when it is sticky, use a brush and spread
on the back of the wall covering evenly then make or loose fold with about 1 inch
Step 1
excess on the ceiling, apply pressure on the meeting corner of the wall and
ceiling with a squeegee and let the wall cover fall freely.
The walling must be a smoothened, cured, cement plastered wall, or a w ell
Step 2
aligned plywood wall, (all nails and imperfections must be puttied.
The walling must receive a thin coat of brushed wall covering paste. Immediately
squeegee the wall cover from inside out and from top to bottom to spread and
to squeegee the paste evenly and remove air. When there is an air bubble, use
a pin to punch a hole or inject with glue. When in place, repeat a second
Step 3
wallcover but this time, allow another inch of side overlap. Squeegee all over
again and when satisfied, using a straight edge and a very sharp cutter, cut
vertically at the center of the overlap and remove all excess while the paste is
still quite wet then squeegee again the joint.
Be careful that the design of the next piece must coincide with the first piece to
Step 4
insure continuity of material design.
Always allow at least ·one inch excess on all vertical or horizontal corners and
Step 5
apply pressure at the corner and edges. Then remove excess with a sharp blade.
 APPLICATION METHODOLOGY OF STUCCO
Stucco is applied in three coats, a base or scratch coat, a second or brown coat, and a final finish coat.
All three coats are composed of one volume of Portland cement to three to five volumes of clean sharp
sand, sometimes 1/ 4 volume of hydrated lime is added to increase plasticity. The scratch and brown
coat should be applied about 3/8 in. thick, each coat kept moist for at least 48 hours. The finish coat
should not be less than 1/ 8 in. thick applied within seven days after application of the brown coat.

BRANDS AVAILABLE IN THE MARKET

Atlanta PVC Wall & Ceiling Panels

Delgado Bamboo Siding

Manila Wood Veneer Supplies

Pateco Wood Walling

Philmetal Galvaframe Walling

Build Block Insulating Building
Forms

Philippine Insulation Roof & Wall Panels

 ARTB01
ARCHITECTURAL BUILDING MATERIALS

RESEARCH NO. 20
Ceiling and Acoustical Materials

In partial fulfilment for the requirement in the degree of Bachelor of Science

In Architecture

Submitted to:

Ar. REYMAR G. BURLUNGAN

Submitted by:

Saylon, Efraine Andrea D.

BSA-1C
 DEFINITION OF TERMS
The ceiling is the upper interior surface of a room or other similar
compartment. This help create an enclosure of and separation between
Ceiling
spaces, they help to control the diffusion of light and sound around a room
and help prevent the passage between the rooms.
This consists of a grid of metal track suspended from the structural ceiling
Suspended Ceiling
with wires or cables. These grids are filled with ceiling panels.
A ready-made metal louver with a wide range of uses. It is light, durable, high
precision and non-flammable. These are mostly seen on banquet halls,
Stainless Steel Ceiling
hotels, lobby ceilings and department stores. While grilles and screens are
used for restaurants and shops.
This refers to the interdisciplinary science that deals with the study of all
Acoustics mechanical waves in gases, liquids and solids including vibration, sound,
ultrasound and infrasound.
These are variety of foams, fabrics, metals and other materials that are used
to quiet workplaces, homes, automobiles and so forth to increase the comfort
Acoustic Materials
and safety of their inhabitants by reducing noise generated both inside and
outside of those spaces.

CEILING MATERIAL CLASSIFICATIONS

Material Definition/Uses Image
Wooden ceiling boards usually
look classic and natural. They can
be used for both interior and
exterior purposes. However, they
are not resistant to termites and
weather conditions which may
Wood
cause them to bend or swell.
Leaving some gaps between the
woods are for when they swell or
bend, especially the exterior ones
that are often exposed to sunlight
and rain.
 Gypsum ceiling boards come in
many different patterns. They are
light and easy to install without
revealing the seams. They are
suitable for interior purposes such
as in the living room or bedroom.
Gypsum But since they are made from
compressed gypsum powder
covered with paper, they are not
resistant to water or moisture,
which makes them unsuitable for
exterior purposes, or they will
easily become soft.

Vinyl ceiling boards are light,

resistant to water and moisture.
They also do not swell or bend
easily, and you do not need to
paint before using it. Although
Vinyl they can be used for both interior
and exterior purposes, vinyl
ceiling boards are rather
expensive, so they are not
suitable for those with a limited
budget.

Fibre-cement ceiling boards are

durable against weather
conditions and resistant to fire.
Fiber-Cement Without bending and swelling,
fibre-cement ceiling boards can
be used for both interior and
exterior purposes.
 MATERIALS USED FOR CEILING PANELS

This is a generic term used to

cover several mineral-based
materials used for similar
Mineral Fiber
purposes, including asbestos,
perlite, vermiculite and other less
common materials.

Another popular material for

ceiling panels. Most fiberglass are
Fiberglass flat and the face side is typically
covered with vinyl-paper or
aluminum.

These are generally perforated for

acoustical performance and are
Metal Ceiling Panels often backed with fiberglass batts
to improve both insulation and
acoustic qualities.
 CLASSIFICATION OF ACOUSTICAL MATERIALS
Classification Description Image

These are made from wood, cane

or asbestos fibers. These
materials are matted and bonded
into sheets of various thickness.

ACOUSTICAL TILE DESIGN

Acoustical Tiles

This consists of some type of

sound-absorbing material such as
Assemble Units rock-wool or fiberglass blanket that
are fastened to an acoustically
transparent facing.

The spray-applied insulation is

tailored to specific project
Sprayed on Acoustical requirements for insulation, noise
Materials reduction, color, durability,
condensation control, texture and
aesthetics.
 This is an impermeable buoyant
material, the phellem layer of bark
tissue that is harvested for
commercial use.

TYPES OF CORK CEILING

Cork
This is an agglomerated cork from
selected cork granules, toasted
Acoustical Board
and mixed with special binders to
form into a mass.
This is made from carefully
selected natural cork on
Ceiling Board agglomerated cork backing,
agglomerated secreted cork
granules or combination of both.
 TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT USED CEILING INSTALLATION
TOOLS &
USES IMAGE
EQUIPMENT
Used to fill in small cracks. Usually, it's
used around windows, bathtubs, or
doors. The gun consists of 2 parts: the
Caulk Gun frame, and the caulk tube which you
load into the frame. Once you know
how to load the caulk into the frame,
you'll be ready to use it in no time at all.

This is a handheld device used with

wood buildings to locate framing studs
located behind the final walling surface,
Stud Finder usually drywall. While there are many
different stud finders available, most fall
into two main categories: magnetic stud
detectors and electric stud finders.

The rectangular or elliptical cross-

section allows easier grip than standard
pencils and prevents the pencil from
Pencil
rolling on slanted surfaces such as
roofs. In addition, a carpenter pencil
can be used as a gauge
Used for cutting shapes and curves in
wood with its narrow blade, which is
attached to the tool's body by a spring-
loaded clamp at the front. The blade's
Jig Saw
sharp teeth are measured in TPI, or
teeth per inch. A higher TPI gives a
smoother cut that requires less
sanding.
 This is a power tool made especially for
accurate crosscutting of trim and
lumber at various angles. Here's why
these tools rule. The chop saw (a.k.a. a
Chop Saw
miter saw) is a motorized woodworking
power tool designed to accurately and
precisely complete square and angled
cuts in wood.
These are primary protectors intended
to shield the eyes against liquid or
chemical splash, irritating mists,
Protective Eyewear vapors, and fumes. They form a
protective seal around the eyes, and
prevent objects or liquids from entering
under or around the goggles.

It dries fast with no need to sand or

prime, letting you paint in minutes for a
Lightweight virtually invisible repair. Ideal for
Spackle repairing small holes, cracks and dents
in drywall, plaster, wood and stucco.
Interior/exterior use.

This is an angled sash brush

(sometimes called a "cutting brush") are
cut at a slant, making it easier to paint
2" Angled Sash clean lines. Use it for anything with
Paintbrush grooves, like cabinets, furniture, or
paneled doors, or when you are
painting close to another surface, such
as between window trim and walls.
 INSTALLATION METHOD OF PLANKED WOOD CEILING
Measure Ceiling and Select Planks. Use a tape measure to determine width
and length of room. Multiply width and length measurements to figure square
footage of ceiling. Buy enough planks to cover square footage plus 10 percent
STEP 1 for waste and mistakes. When looking for planks to apply to a ceiling, it's best
to use thin, lightweight planks, preferably tongue and groove. This type of plank
can generally be found in the paneling section of hardware stores. Allow planks
to acclimate to the space for about a week prior to painting and installation.
Prime and Paint Planks. Pour primer into lined paint try and apply to planks
with a 6" foam roller. Drips in the groove or off the tongue will interfere with how
STEP 2
they fit together, so wipe away any drips with a paint brush and apply primer in
a thin coat. Once primer has dried, repeat process with paint.
Measure and Cut Planks. Determine which direction ceiling planks will run in
the room. It's ideal to have planks run perpendicular to ceiling joists, so they
can be nailed into joists. Planks can be nailed directly into drywall if running
parallel to joists as long as the planks are lightweight. Determine how planks
STEP 3 will fit on ceiling and make any necessary cuts on a chop saw. For example, if
planks are running width-wise in a 12' wide room and 8' long planks are being
used, cut several planks to 4' long. If installing crown molding, cut pieces
slightly short of wall width. If molding or trim isn't being installed, cut pieces to
fit perfectly. Cut as many planks as required to cover ceiling.
Install Planks. This step is best completed with two people. Start on side of
room that is most visible. Place first plank flush against wall and nail into ceiling
with a finishing nailer. If nailing into the drywall, insert nails at a slight angle
and apply a small amount of construction adhesive to back of each plank with
a caulk gun. If shooting into ceiling trusses, use a stud finder and mark location
STEP 4 of trusses with pencil. Nail straight into ceiling trusses to secure. Construction
adhesive may also be applied to back of planks for additional hold. When
applying second plank to complete first row, make sure tongues are lined up
and planks form a straight, continuous line. Most homes do not have perfectly
square walls, so planks may not fit perfectly flush against wall. Install second
row of planks, staggering joints.
Cutting Around Light Fixtures. When ceiling treatment reaches a light
fixture, shut off electricity to room at the breaker box. Remove light fixture. (A
STEP 5
drill or additional tools may be required for this step, depending on the fixture.)
Hold plank up to ceiling outlet and mark width and depth with a pencil. Cut out
 marked area with a jig saw . Hold plank up to outlet to make sure cut is in
proper place. Repeat with other planks around outlets. Reinstall fixtures and
turn power to room back on. Continue installing planks until entire ceiling is
covered.
Fill Nail Holes and Touch Up Paint. Apply lightweight spackle with a fingertip
to fill nail holes. If a cleaner look is desired, caulk gaps and edges of ceiling.
STEP 6
Touchup marks left by finishing nailer with ceiling paint and 2-1/2" angled sash
brush.
INSTALLING A LAMINATE WOOD CEILING
Unpack the planks and leave in the room to acclimate to the climate for at least
STEP 1
24 hours before installation.
STEP 2 The planks will run in the direction opposite your ceiling joists.
Determine the width of the first row of planks to make the first and last rows
STEP 3 equal. Snap a chalk line across the joists where the leading edge (the side
away from the wall) of the first row of planks will sit.
Face nail or screw first plank on the side closest to the wall. Place the nails or
STEP 4 screws close to the edge so that they will be hidden by the crown molding later
on.
Align the leading edge of the plank (groove edge) with the chalk line Slide a
STEP 5 metal clip underneath the first plank and screw it to the beam with the clip's
notch grabbing onto the inside of the plank's groove.
Use as many clips as necessary to make sure each plank is secure. Check the
STEP 6
manufacturer's instructions; it will depend on the spacing of your joists.
Stagger the end joints of planks for a more professional look (as you would
STEP 7
when laying a hardwood floor).
Use a miter saw to cut the planks to length. Use standard tools such as a drill
STEP 8
and router to cut holes for light fixtures, sprinklers or air vents.
When installing the last row of planks, allow a 1/2-inch clearance from the end
STEP 9 wall and secure the last row with face nails or screws like you did with the first
row.
Install a decorative molding to finish the ceiling and cover the nails or screws
STEP 10
along the walls.
 PRICES AND SIZES AVAILABLE IN THE MARKET
Product Name Quantity Size Price
Ceiling Mounting Panels In
2 15x8mm ₱209.00
ABS Ceiling Panels
Australia Gypsum Board
1000 1200/1220 mm $2,700.00
False Ceiling Designs
18x24 inch at
Cork Sheet 1 pc ₱285
6mm
Drywall Fitting Tool COLOR FAMILY QUANTITY SIZE PRICE
Plasterboard Fixing Tool RED 2PCS 15X8.5CM ₱179.34
Room Ceiling Sloped Walls
Decoration Carpenter Tool GREEN 2PCS 15X8.5CM ₱179.34
Ceiling Positioning Plate
BROWN Box of 10pcs 2.9 Meters ₱3,500.00
PVC Ceiling Panel
SAND BROWN Box of 10pcs 2.9 Meters ₱3,500.00
2920 x 300 x
BROWN 4 Pieces ₱640.00
100 (mm)
PVC Ceiling Edge Trim
2920 x 300 x
DARK BROWN 4 Pieces ₱640.00
100 (mm)
2920 x 450 x
BROWN 4 Pieces ₱880.00
PVC Ceiling Cornice 470 (mm)
2920 x 450 x
DARK BROWN 4 Pieces ₱880.00
470 (mm)
SIZE PRICE
Knauf Gypsum Board 12mm ₱435.50
9mm ₱384.00
 BRANDS AVAILABLE IN THE MARKET
Brand Name Image

Spraytex

Knauf

USG Boral

Excelcon

Paulstra Hutchinson
 ARTB01
ARCHITECTURAL BUILDING MATERIALS

RESEARCH NO. 21
Roofing Materials

In partial fulfilment for the requirement in the degree of Bachelor of Science

In Architecture

Submitted to:

Ar. REYMAR G. BURLUNGAN

Submitted by:

Saylon, Efraine Andrea D.

BSA-1C
 DEFINITION OF TERMS
Functions as the primary sheltering element for the interior spaces of a building.
The external covering of a building. Including the frame for supporting the roofing.
Roof System
Also controls the passage of moisture vapor, the infiltration of air, and the flow of
heat and solar radiation.
The slope of a roof, commonly expressed in inches of vertical rise per foot or
Pitch
horizontal run.
Rise The measured height of a sloping roof from the eaves to the ridge.
Run The horizontal distance from the eaves to the ridge of a sloping roof.
Decking The material used to form the inner layer of a flat roof.
Sheathing The inner skin material of a sloped roof.

PARTS OF ROOF
Part Definition Image

A horizontal line of Intersection at the top between two

Ridge
sloping planes of a roof.

An Intersection of two inclined roof surfaces toward

Valley
which rainwater flows.

A raised construction straddling the ridge of a roof,

Monitor having windows or lowers for lighting or ventilating a
building.

Rake The inclined, usually projecting edge of a sloping roof.

 An opening in a roof or ceiling glazed with a
Skylight transparent or translucent material for admitting
daylight.

Eaves The overhang lower edge of a roof.

The inclined projecting angle formed by the junction of

Hip
two adjacent sloping sides of a roof.

A small roof for diverting rainwater around a

Cricket
projection, as a chimney, on a sloping roof.

Saddle A ridge connecting two higher elevations of a roof.

A projecting structure built out from a sloping roof,

Dormer
usually housing a vertical window or ventilating louver.

A drain designed to receive water collecting on the

Roof Drain surface of a roof and to discharge It. Into a leader or a
downspout.
 An opening in the side of a building. as in a parapet for
Scupper
draining off rainwater.

A channel of metal or wood at the eaves or on the roof

Gutter of a building for carrying off rainwater. Also called
eaves trough.

PARTS OF DORMER
Part Definition Photo

Either of two similar sides of a projection, as a dormer

Cheek
or buttress.

Shed Dormer A dormer having a shed roof.

Gable Dormer A dormer having a gable roof.

A large dormer that houses a chimney or joins one part

Link Dormer
of a roof to another.
 A low dormer having a roof that is an upwardly curving
Eyebrow
continuation of the main roof plane.

PARTS OF GUTTER
Part Definition Photo

The boxlike head of a downspout connected to a

Leader Head
scupper or gutter.

A vertical pipe for conveying rainwater down from a

Downspout roof or gutter to the ground. Also called drain spout,
leader.

The base of a downspout. curved outward to direct the

Shoe
flow away from the wall.

A precast concrete block having a depressed, splayed

Splash Block surface, placed at the base of a downspout to disperse
rainwater that would otherwise erode the soil.
 COMPONENTS OF ROOF
1. Frame or Skeleton
2. Rigid inner layer or skin which is fastened to the frame and supports the outer layer or
(Only used for roofing materials that requires the roof to be waterproofed).
3. Exposed outer layer (roofing material).

ROOF TYPES
Type Definition Photo
A roof having no slope or one with only a slight pitch
Flat Roof
so as to drain rain water.

A roof sloping downward in two parts from a central

Gable Roof
ridge, so as to form a gable at each end.

A roof having sloping ends and sides meeting at an

Hip Roof
inclined projecting angle.

A roof divided on each side of the ridge into two or

Curb Roof
more slopes as a gambrel or mansard.

A roof having on each side a steeper lower part and a

Mansard
shallower upper part. Also called mansard roof.

A roof having two slopes; each descending Inward

Butterfly Roof
from the eaves.
 Shed Roof A roof having a single slope.

A shed roof with the higher end abutting a wall or

Lean-To
larger building.

A shed roof projecting from a wall or the side of a

Penthouse building as to shelter a door. Also called apprentice,
pent.

Pavilion Roof A pyramidal hip roof.

A roof having a hipped end truncating a gable. Also

Hipped Gable
called Jerkinhead and shreadhead
 A ridged roof divided on each side into a shallower
Gambrel Roof
slope above a steeper one.

A gable roof in the form of a broad Gothic arch with

Rainbow Roof
gently sloping convex surfaces

Barrel Roof A roof or ceiling having a semi-cylindrical form.

A roof composed of a series of small parallel roofs of

Sawtooth Roof triangular cross section. Usually asymmetrical with the
shorter slope glazed.

ROOFING MATERIALS
Brief Material Types/ Sub Types/ Photo
Material
Description Classification Classification
a roofing unit Wood shingles
of wood,
asphaltic Made from trees
material, slate, that are light when
SHINGLES tile, concrete, dry, has high
asbestos crushing
cement or strength, and slow
other material growing trees
cut to stock which produce
lengths, widths narrow annual
and thickness; rings. This in turn,
used as an result in a fine,
exterior evenly grained
covering or wood with uniform
sloping roofs texture. Wood
and side walls; shingles are also
applied in an made from large
overlapping trees with few
fashion. knots, so that
shingles free
should from
blemishes and
distorted grains
can be produced in
large quantities.
Wood shakes Hand split and
resawed
Shakes are used
for the same made by cutting
purpose as planks of proper
shingles but are thickness and running
split rather than them through a
sawed from the bandsaw diagonally.
blocks. This Taper split
produces a much
rougher face than Produced by hand-
in the case with splitting. A shingle like
shingles. taper is achieved by
reversing the block
end-for-end with each
split.
Straight-split shakes

Similarly done as
taper split except that
splitting is done from
one end of the block
only. Hand split and
resawed shakes
comes in 18, 24 and
32 in. length with
thicknesses of 1/2 to
3/4, 3/4 to l 1/4. The
taper split comes in
24.
in. long from 1 /2 to 5/8
in. taper. Straight split
shakes are made in
18
and 24 and 3/8 in.
thick.

 Asphalt
shingles

Made from
heavy rag felt,
saturated with
asphalt and
coated with
high-melting
point flexible
asphalt.
Ceramic
coated
mineral
 granules are
pressed into
the asphalt
coating on the
exposed face
to provide. a
fire-resistant
surface.

 Asbestos
cement
shingles

Made from a
combination
of asbestos
fibers in
portland
cement paste.
To this mix is
added
quantities of
small colored
ceramic
granules
to produce
permanent
colors.

 Aluminum
shingles

Made from
sheet
aluminum
 approximately
0.020 in. thick
in the form of
a 9 in. square.
They are
folded on all
edges with
reversed folds
so that
adjacent
shingles will
interlock.

Terra-cotta

Because of its
Traditionally
weight, being a
made from
terra-cotta product,
locally
wood sheathing
available
and strong well-
materials such
braced roof frames
as terracotta or
are necessary. All
slate. Modern
of the styles of terra
ROOFING materials such
cotta tiles should
TILE as concrete,
be laid over an
metal and
asphalt felt base
plastic are also
and are fastened
used and
with copper nails.
some clay tiles
Elastic cement is
have a
used to caulk joints
waterproof
that are otherwise
glaze.
not watertight.
Sometime
corrugated
 galvanized sheets
are used for
sheathing.
Concrete roofing
tile

Similar to English
tile but have a lug
across the
underside about 3
in. from one end.
They are laid
without nails and
rely on their weight
to hold them in
place. The first
course is
supported by a
horizontal furring
strip. Each
succeeding tile is
supported by the
one below.

Materials Steel Galvanized steel

include, steel,
stainless steel, Steel strip is coated Steel coated with zinc.

copper, lead, with zinc, tin, lead, produced in

SHEET zinc, aluminum or combinations of corrugated sheet or in

METAL and galbestos. two of these to plain sheets.

PROOFING Joints are produce steel Long span roofing

necessary roofing.

between either coated with 2 in.

sheets to only

produce a
waterproof or colored, pre-
skin. painted

This long Span

colored roofing
employs a double
coating and double
baking of zinc coated
G.l. steel sheets by a
special epoxy-acrylic.
Anti-corrosion system
as its primer coating
and polyester as its
finishing coat. The
factory delivers this
colored roofing from
any size up to 60 feet.
Stainless steel

When chromium is
added during the
process of
manufacturing steel,
this stainless steel has
great resistance to
corrosion, and is
usually specified for
exterior use.
Monel metal

This is an alloy
containing about 70
percent nickel, Z7
percent copper, and 3
percent iron. It is
highly corrosion-
resistant and does not
tarnish easily. It is also
hard requiring shop
fabrication, and
expensive.
Copper

Roofing copper may

be soft-rolled which is
easily worked, or cold-
rolled, which is
stronger, harder, but
less ductile.
Lead

is a very pliable and

useful roofing
material, it can be
drawn and stretched
to fit
wrapped surfaces. It
weathers to a soft,
even gray tone and is
little affected by acids.
Zinc

Zinc is lighter and

stiffer than lead but is
affected by acids and
has a high coefficient
of expansion. Rolled
zinc sheet is
sometimes used for
roofing and flashing,
 but zinc has a much
wider application as a
coating for steel
roofing sheets.
Aluminum

Aluminum roofing is
light, noncorrosive,
rigid and durable. It
has a very high
coefficient of thermal
expansion. It is
available in both
sheets and coils in a
number of
thicknesses.
Galbestos

This is a composite
roofing made up of a
steel-sheet core
covered on both sides
with a layer of zinc.
While the zinc is still
hot a layer of asbestos
felt is pressed to it and
the felt is impregnated
with asphalt. Finally, a
colored waterproof
outer coating is
applied.

ASBESTOS- Asbestos
CEMENT fibers and
SHEET portland
ROOFING cement are
 combined
under
pressure to
form
corrugated
roofing sheets.
These sheets
are used in the
same manner
as corrugated
metal,
asbestos,
cement sheets
may be left
unpainted,
painted or
factory
finished with
plastic
coatings of
various colors
A term applied Roofing type
to a type of consisting of
roofing made asphalted felt
by building up paper, asphalt and
successive gravel, or slag and
layers of felt is intended to roof
BUILT-UP paper slopes from 1/2 to 3
ROOFING and asphalt in. per foot.
over a solid
roof deck of Roofing type no. 2
some consists of tarred
description, felt paper, pitch and
with or without gravel. This is
insulation. intended for roofs
with slope of 0 to 1
in. per foot.
Procedure is the
same asphalt type.

Roofing type no. 3

consists of
asbestos felt,
asphalt felt, and a
smooth flood
coat of asphalt,
intended for roofs
with a slope of
from 1/2 to 8 in.
per ft.

Roofing type no 4
requires heated
slate-surfaced
roofing paper as
well as asphalt-
saturated felts and
may be used on
roofs with slopes
from 2 to 18 in. 12.

Roofing type no. 5

involves what is
known as the cold
process. The felts
are cold process
felts, saturated with
cold asphalt
emulsion, and the
 asphalt top coating
is applied cold.
Layers of felt are
sealed together
with asphalt
adhesive. Roofing
to this type is
suitable for slopes
from 1/8 to 8 in-per
foot.
Smooth roll

Consists of
asphalt-saturated
felt ranging in
weight from 45 to
65 lb. per 100 sq. ft.
covered with a
This consists
smooth coating of
of very heavy
asphalt.
asphalt-
Mineral
saturated felt
paper, with or
ROLLED Surface roll ranges
without finely
ROOFING from 90 to ·120 lb.
crushed
per 100 sq. ft. and
slate
has a layer of
embedded in
crushed slate
one surface,
embedded in the
put up is rolls.
asphalt surface
coating, made in 36
in. wide.
Pattern-edge roll

made in 32 and 36
in. and consists of a
 105-lb. felt that is
mineral-surfaced
except for a 4 in.
band down the
center. The roll is
semi cut on a
pattern along this
strip so that a roll
produces 16 or 18
in.
Selvage roll

The 19"in. selvage

roll is made of from
felt weighing 140 to
150 lb. per 100 sq.
ft. in a
strip 36 in.
This is a new
technique for
the application
of asphalt
roofing, using
special
equipment
SPRAYED-
for applying
ON
the material. A
ASPHALT
special gun
ROOFING
with three
nozzles and a
fiber cutting
chamber is
used. Glass
fibers are fed
into the
 chamber
where they are
cut to
predetermined
lengths
and blown out
through a
center nozzle.
Two side
nozzles each
deliver a spray
of asphalt
emulsion
which coats
the glass fibers
and carries
them to the
deck to form a
reinforced
film of asphalt.
The thickness
of the film can
be increased
by repeated
sprayings.
the most Corrugated glass
effective ways
of getting made in sheets
natural light with corrugations,
GLASS
into a space. which correspond
ROOFING
By offering a with the
portal to the metal or asbestos
sky from board roofing. The
directly above glass is usually .3/8
(rather than at in. thick, and sheet
a horizontal are
angle, as with made up to a
a window), maximum size of
glass roofs 50 x 144 in. Glass
flood interior sheets may be
spaces with interchanged with
natural light. the regular roofing
sheets to allow the
entry of light
through the roof.
Glass sheets
are fastened in
place and made
weather proof by
elastic caulking
compound at side
and end laps.
Wired glass

This is glass which

has embedded in it
wire mesh with no
larger than 7/8 in.
openings. The
glass in 1/4 in. thick
and may have a
polished or
patterned surface.
Sheets are made
up to a maximum
size of 60 x 132 in.
This type of glass is
held in metal
frames and is
 commonly used in
skylights, etc.
Corrugated
plastic sheet

made from glass-

fiber-reinforced
plastics in color or
translucent. Sheets
are 34 in. wide and
Strong and
8, 10, 12ft. long
resilient
with 2 1/2 or 1 1/4
thermoplastic
in. corrugations.
material. also,
Such sheets may
very
be interchanged
lightweight and
with corrugated
capable of
sheet metal,
withstanding
asbestos or
extreme
PLASTIC galbestos sheets
temperatures,
ROOFING to allow entry of
either hot or
light.
cold. Due to
these qualities,
it makes for an
effective
Sheets of clear
roofing
vinyl plastic
material for
many
sed in green
applications.
houses,
conservatories,
and factory
buildings. Used for
the same purpose
as glass sheets.
Vinyl sheets can be
much
 larger because of
their great impact
strength.
Liquid plastic

Also sprayed onto

roof decks and is
known as the
envelope roofing.
This liquid
envelope consists
of a pigmented,
opaque vinyl
plastic which is
applied by means
of spray gun to
form a continuous
film 30 to 40 mils.
thick. It can be
applied by over
almost any-type of
roof deck or
existing roofing
material except
root wood shingles.
This is very useful
for roofs with
irregular shapes or
very steep slopes.
by Philsteel-
this is a long
MILANO
span steel
DESIGN
tiles, solid steel
sculptured to
 match the
beauty of
ceramic
roofing. It is
leakproof
because it has
less seams
and overlaps,
Polyester paint
baked over
epoxy primes
which is
virtually
maintenance
free. It
consists of
steps-better
rigidity than
ordinary
Corrugated
Sheets.
by metal
forming
corporation.
This is a
horizontally
laid colored
BANAWE long
DESIGN span metal tile
which has
concealed
fastening, cut
to size, and
most of all, an
absence of
purlins which
saves on this
cost. It has
sharp distinct
horizontal rib
lines and hook
action at
overlaps. It
prevents
capillarity and
checks the
penetration of
rain water with
wind velocity of
60 meters per
second or
134.2·1 miles
per hour.
 TOOLS USED IN ROOFING
Material Definition Image

A utility knife is a fine choice that can handle

the job, but a roofing knife is a bit more
specialized and makes your job easier.
Utility Knife
Roofing blades have special hooks near the
edge to help you control the cut when you’re
working on thicker material, like shingles.

The use of measuring tapes is pretty

straightforward. These days, high-tech laser
tools are also becoming popular for
Tape Measure measuring. However, they aren’t always ideal
for roofing purposes because they aren’t as
accurate over short distances. You will at least
need a metal measuring tape as a backup.

Most often a hand tool, consisting of a

weighted "head" fixed to a long handle that is
Hammer
swung to deliver an impact to a small area of
an object.

Roofers need to snap chalk lines frequently,

including when they install open valleys and
Chalk Line
align gutters. To do so, you’ll need a chalk
reel.
 Most roofers will use nail guns for applying
shingles and other nailing work. Nail gun
safety is a concern, but most roofers find that
nail guns are faster than hammers. However,
Roofing Nail there are still many roofers who prefer to use
Guns. roofing hammers or hatchets. If you choose to
use nail guns, you will still need to have a
roofing hammer on hand for other nailing
tasks or for when holding a nail gun might be
more encumbering than it’s worth.
Felt underlayment may be installed with
staples, or cap nails, depending on your
building code requirements. If you use
Hammer Tacker
staples, you will need a staple gun. If you’re
Stapler
using air nail guns, it makes sense to also use
an air staple gun. There are even 2-in-1 nail
and staple guns.

Scoop shovels are large, deep shovels

Roofing Shovel Or without a point, as opposed to the flat, pointed
Shingle Tear-Off landscaping shovels meant to dig. A roofer
Tool can use a scoop shovel to move loose
shingles into a dumpster.

you’ll need a reciprocating saw when you’re

cutting out roof decking for a skylight or when
removing some decking that has suffered
Reciprocating Saw
water damage. While less precise than
And Circular Saw
circular saws, reciprocating saws are easier to
use on rooftops and able to get into tight spots
without over-shooting.

cordless electric drills are easier to use at

Drill (Cordless, height because there is no cord for you to trip
Electric Or Air) up over. Although cordless drills have limited
battery life, as a roofer you won’t be using
 them too often. The convenience of a cord-
free drill may make up for its recharging time.

You will need at least one step ladder and one

Ladders And extension ladder to reach roofs of different
Extension Ladders heights. Ladders will also limit how fast you
can work.

INSTALLATION OF ROOF SHINGLES

ROLL OUT THE SELF-STICK UNDERLAYMENT STICK ON THE UNDERLAYMENT. Protect the
roof against ice dams and windblown rain with self-stick ice-and-water underlayment. Peel off the top
half of the plastic backing as you unroll the underlayment.
PEEL OFF THE BOTTOM BACKING. Make sure the underlayment lies smooth before you nail the top
edge then pull off the lower half of the backing.
STICK THE BOTTOM PART OF THE UNDERLAYMENT TO THE ROOF OF THE HOUSE. Install the
second course just like the first, using the guidelines on the underlayment to get the correct overlap.
Rolls of self-stick underlayment have a plastic backing so the material won't stick to itself. The backing
is separated down the middle. Line up the lower edge of the roll with the outside of the drip edge. Peel
back part of the uppermost backing on the roll, and nail the top corner of the underlayment to the decking.
Start pulling the roll across the decking using the backing, making sure the material is lying as flat and
as straight as possible as you pull.
COVER THE ROOF WITH FELT PAPER ROLL ON THE FELT PAPER. Cover the roof above the
underlayment with roofing felt paper to start each course, drive a dozen staples grouped close together
then unroll the felt and straighten out the row before you add more staples.
DON'T SKIMP ON STAPLES. Place staples no more than 12 in. apart paper with too few staples will
tear out under your feet and could cause a fall.
OVERLAP THE RIDGE. Run the felt paper over the peak and overlap it onto the other side. Do the same
when you reach the peak from the other side of the roof.
WATERPROOF YOUR VALLEYS FLASH THE VALLEYS. Install self-stick underlayment under the
metal flashing. If you need more than one flashing in your valley, lay them both in place and make sure
they're straight before nailing them down.
FOLD FLASHING OVER THE PEAK
Cut the flashing back to the peak along each crease. Then fold the flashing over the peak and cover the
cut ends with self-stick underlayment. Roof valleys channel a lot of water, so they need extra protection.
Start by installing self-stick underlayment on the decking. This process is much easier with two people.
Cut the underlayment to size (or in sections for long valleys), and peel off the entire plastic backer. With
a person on each end, fold the underlayment in on itself, sticky side out. Then lay it into the valley and
unfold it.
BEGIN WITH STARTER SHINGLES INSTALL STARTER SHINGLES
Run the row of starter shingles 1/2 in. past the drip edge. Position them so the adhesive strip is toward
the bottom and facing up. Place nails 2 to 3 in. up from the bottom of the eave. Water can get in the
seams between any two shingles, but that's ok because shingles overlap and the seams are staggered.
INSTALL THE SHINGLES NAIL ON SHINGLES
Following the manufacturer's nailing instructions is critical; improper nailing is the biggest cause of roof
failures in storms. Where and how often you nail your shingles will depend on wind speeds in your area
and the pitch of your roof.
RUN SHINGLES LONG, THEN TRIM THEM OFF
For nice straight lines, run shingles over the edge of the roof. Then snap a chalk line and trim them off
with a hook blade in your utility knife. If the overhang is more than a foot, cut some off and use the
remainder elsewhere.
WORKING AROUND VENTS AND STACKS MAKE PLUMBING VENTS LEAKPROOF
Install a layer of underlayment around vent pipes and caulk with roof sealant before shingling. Run
shingles halfway past vents before installing vent flashing.
ADD THE VENT FLASHING
Drive three nails along the top edge of the flashing and one at each of the lower corners.
SHINGLE OVER THE VENT FLASHING
Seal the nail heads, and trim around the stack flashing with a utility knife fitted with hook blades.
ADD VENTILATION
If you need more ventilation, cut additional vent holes in the decking with a circular saw and install vent
flashing. Installing shingles around attic vents, plumbing vent stacks and furnace stacks is basically the
same process. The main difference is that you'll install a piece of self-stick underlayment around all the
stacks, but you just need to roll the felt paper over the vent holes and cut out the holes.
CAP THE RIDGE
Snap chalk lines to help keep the row of ridge cap shingles straight. Install the ridge cap so the prevailing
winds blow over the overlap seams, not into them. Once all your shingles are installed, you'll need to
cover (cap) the ridge (and hip ridges if you have a hip roof).
SEAL IT UP
Sweep all the debris off the roof, and then seal all the exposed nails on your vents and stack flashing. If
you used stack flashing that has the rubber boot, seal the area where rubber meets the pipe. Avoid
silicone (it won't hold up) and asphalt-based sealants (they tend to dry out when exposed to direct
sunlight).

INSTALLATION OF METAL ROOFING

STEP 1: START SQUARE
When you're installing a metal roofing panel, the first thing that you want to do is make sure you're starting
square. This means that your vertical lines are all running square to your eave.

It’s important to start square because if the first panel is tilted a little bit, all the panels that come after are
going to be tilted as well. When you're starting the roof, you want to square off the edge and adjust your
panel if necessary.
STEP 2: CUT PANEL TO LENGTH & ADD EAVE TRIM
The panel we are using is too long. When you're doing an exposed fastener eave installation, you want
to overhang the eave by one and a half or two inches at most. Put your tape up against the end wall and
measure down to the edge of your eave trim.
Flip the panel over and make marks on the reverse side. I had said that the measurement was 24 inches
and that I needed to add an inch and a half to that, so I'm going to make a mark at 25.5 inches. I'm going
to do the same on the other side at 25.5 inches. Using a square or a straight edge, you can then join
those two lines to create your cut-line.
Flip the panel over and make marks on the reverse side. I had said that the measurement was 24 inches
and that I needed to add an inch and a half to that, so I'm going to make a mark at 25.5 inches. I'm going
to do the same on the other side at 25.5 inches. Using a square or a straight edge, you can then join
those two lines to create your cut-line.
STEP 3: APPLY SEALANT TAPE
This panel is 25.5 inches long so that 1.5 inches overhangs the eave, and between the eave trim and
the underside of the panel, we're going to apply one row of sealant tape. Remember, sealant tape goes
between all layers of metal. Apply the sealant tape along the center of the entire eave and remove the
tape backing.
STEP 4: INSTALLATION USING EXPOSED FASTENERS
Make sure the panel is square to the eve of the roof so that all of panels installed afterwards are
straight. Next, put a screw into the fastening strip to keep it steady before installing the screws along
the face.
Next you will install exposed fasteners along the center of the pan, and make sure that the fasteners
thread the sealant tape beneath to create a watertight seal. The screw we will use in the center of the
pan is a wood-grip. This is our neoprene washer fastener. It's a painted fastener that matches the
panel, and you’ll need to make sure that it threads the sealant tape beneath the panel. Attach three
fasteners, one on each side and one in the middle. Be sure to not over-tighten the fastener. If you do, it
squishes out the neoprene washer which gets exposed to the sun. This causes it to dry out and crack
much faster. You can then continue to attach and install more panels until the roof is covered.

INSTALLATION OF CORRUGATED PLASTIC ROOFING

PREPARE ROOF
The roof should have a pitch of at least one inch per foot to allow water to drain properly. If your roof has
a shallower pitch, you may need to use additional weatherproofing measures. For a secure and attractive
finish, you should use molding strips on top of the rafters. Use the rounded molding strips on the vertical
rafters and the corrugated ones on the horizontal cross-braces. Attach the moldings using galvanized
nails to prevent rusting in case of any leaks. This can be a time-consuming process that is significantly
quicker if you use a nail gun.

CUT ROOFING TO SIZE

Although plastic roofing is very strong, it is very easy to cut to your required size. Some types of plastic
can be cut using garden shears or scissors, but for others, you may need to use a fine-toothed saw.
Higher quality plastics will be easier to cut and leave a cleaner line.
PRE-DRILL HOLES
The installation of plastic roofing is much easier if you drill the holes for the fasteners in advance. Ideally,
you should aim to have the fasteners at the high point of every fourth corrugation. The pre-drilled holes
should be eight to ten millimeters in diameter and two millimeters wider than the fasteners you are using
to allow room for expansion when the roof is exposed to heat. It is easier to drill the holes if you use a
stick with a hole drilled in it as a guide and to drill from what will be the underneath of the roof.
FASTENING
Use special roofing fasteners rather than standard screws to secure the corrugated sheets as they
have a waterproof seal underneath the head that prevents leaks. When joining panels, you should use
silicone sealant along their vertical length and overlap the sheets by one corrugation. Be sure to use a
generous amount of sealant so that there are no gaps and to receive the best performance.
FINISHING
For an attractive finish and additional weather protection, especially if your plastic roofing adjoins
another building, you can use flashing to improve the seal. If you live in an area with a high level of
rainfall, it may also be wise to invest in gutters that can be installed after the plastic roof is in place.
 INSTALLATION OF CLAY TILES
Position the first tile on the batten with the crown facing up and center the tile from side to side. Drive a
10d nail at the base of the clay tile into the batten. Don’t overdrive the nail. Verify that the tile overhangs
the end of the batten by two inches.
Add some mortar underneath the first clay tile to provide additional support.
Install another tile atop the inner end of the first. Measure from the outer end and adjust the end of the
second tile.
Nail the second tile to the batten in the same way you installed the first one.
Place two tiles to the opposite end of the ridge and install them as you did with the previous one.
Measure the distance across the ridge from the outer ends of the first tiles at each end of the ridge.
Subtract 16 inches and divide the result by 8 to determine the number of tiles to install.
Start at the second tile at one end of the ridge. Install the tiles toward the center of the ridge from end
to end and install half the number of ridge tiles. Work from the opposite end and install the remaining
tiles to the center of the ridge. A key tile installs at the center of the ridge with mortar.

INSTALLATION OF CLAY ROOF TILES

STEP 1 –INSTALL VERTICAL POSTS
This project requires prior framing knowledge as now you will need the basic frame to be installed for
your roof. For this, you will need pretreated wood to create the vertical posts and roof trusses where your
glass roof will be installed. You can create your vertical posts by attaching pretreated 4 x 4s to the outside
perimeter of your deck. You will need to adequately bolt and secure your vertical posts to your deck to
be able to support your trusses and roof. This will create your vertical posts that are the foundation and
support for your roof trusses and the actual glass windows.
STEP 2 – INSTALL ROOF TRUSSES
After you have installed your vertical posts to complete your framework, you are ready to install the roof
trusses. This will be the frame and support for your glass windows and the beams your windows will be
fastened to. The trusses for your roof should be far enough apart to allow you to benefit from the glass
roof, but close enough to properly support the glass. You can determine the required spacing for your
trusses by first measuring your windows to determine the distance between each window frame. Measure
the width of the windows to determine how far apart to place your trusses when installing them.
STEP 3 – ATTACH THE GLASS ROOF
Once your roof trusses are in place and properly attached and secured to your vertical posts, you are
ready to begin attaching the windows to create your glass roof. When attaching the windows of your
glass roof, you need to begin in the innermost corner of the roof area so that you do not have to work
over an already installed window and risk breaking the glass. Attaching the windows to the trusses is a
simple task requiring you to nail the frame of the window directly into the wooden roof trusses. Be liberal
with the number of nails you utilize as you want a very secure hold between the frame and trusses.
STEP 4 – SEAL THE FRAMES
In addition, as you move through the installation of the window frames, you may also want to seal the
frames by applying roof cement over the connecting frames. Be certain to do this as you install the
frame so you do not need to go back and work over the glass and take the risk of breaking a window.
The cement can be applied where two frames connect to each other to help create a tighter seal and
prevent leaks.

ROOFING BRANDS IN THE PHILIPPINES

COMPANY LOGO

CASPAR ROOFING INC.

UNION GALVASTEEL CORP.

SOCIETY GLASS & GABRIEL

BUILDERS INC.

ASTM CORP.

GARNEL ENTERPRISE

NICEMAN INCORPORATED
ERCM PRODUCTS INTERNATIONAL
INC

L. ANGELES MACHINERIES
(LAMACO)

INSULATION TECHNOLOGIES CO.

TIMBER PROTECTION AND

MAINTENANCE SERVICES
WHISTLER STEEL INDUSTRIES

IMAC ROOF AND WALL,

INCORPORATED