ASL GLOBAL

TEXTILE TRENDS - SUSTAINABILITY

December 2018
CONTENTS

1. Introduction 6. Low Impact Manufacture

2. Future Fabrics 7. Eco Packaging

3. Organic Materials 8. Focus on Denim

4. Recycling & Upcycling 9. Eco Slogans

5. Awareness Campaigns 10. The Circular Economy

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INTRODUCTION
Sustainability is Paramount.

Whether it’s circularity, eco-packaging or reducing microfibres polluting the world’s oceans, sustainability is now front and centre in the apparel sector. And brands that
have previously put limited focus on the issue are now joining the party. Why? Because consumers are demanding it. A recent survey* showed that 50% of consumers
indicated they favour responsible textile brands and six in 10 consumers globally are interested in knowing if the textiles they purchase are safe from harmful substances
and produced in environmentally and socially responsible ways. Consumers are demanding a higher level of sustainability in the clothes they wear and brands are
responding. This report highlights some of the top textiles sustainability trends, specifically looking ahead to Fall/Winter 2019.20. Key themes include:

WASTE-FREE AND ENDLESSLY REUSABLE PRODUCTS

FULL TRANSPARENCY, SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY – WHO IS MAKING THE GARMENTS AND IN WHICH CONDITIONS
WORK WITH NATURE TO MINIMIZE ENERGY AND WATER USAGE
JOINING THE FUR-FREE RETAILER PROGRAMME, PROVING BRANDS ARE SERIOUS ABOUT ANIMAL WELFARE

© Copyright ASL 2018 *source: https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/sustainability/oeko-tex-survey-

reveals-consumer-concerns-textile-production-74028/
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FUTURE FABRICS
Future fabrics expo at the London Textiles Fair.

In 2018, the London Textile Fair hosted a sustainable sourcing platform, The Future Fabrics Expo, for the first time. Held from July 18-19, the A/W 19/20
edition of the show welcomed 5,200 visitors. The expo is a platform that aids the discovery of sustainable textiles, leathers and material innovations. With
options available for a range of markets, it also presented innovative bio-sequin developments and packaging solutions from Avery Dennison. While the
Future Fabrics Expo holds an annual standalone event in January, this collaboration brings the expo to a far wider audience and marks the importance of
integrating sustainable sourcing firmly into the textiles scene.

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ORGANIC MATERIALS
Organic cotton, lyocell, and natural fibres have low-impact.

The growing interest in products with a positive environmental impact sees retailers opting for natural raw materials within their ranges. Organic
cottons and Lyocell (Tencel) continue to gain traction as commercially viable options, with whole ranges such as H&M Conscious and Join Life by
Zara promoting the use of these fabrics. Zalando's Shop by Fabric feature populates all Lyocell products in one place.

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RECYCLING & UPCYCLING

Recycled fibres are being introduced to help ‘close the loop’.

A focus on using pre- and post-consumer waste to create new materials is gaining momentum at retail level. Garments made from partially recycled
materials derived from leftover fabrics or collected garments underscores this shift, with H&M and Zara using swing tags to promote the percentage of recycled
fibers in each item. Adidas and Oysho focus on recycling plastic ocean waste to create new polymers.

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RECYCLING & UPCYCLING

Deadstock fabrics and overstock garments are being upcycled.

Continuing the recycling thread, collections made from repurposed or recycled materials are gaining popularity. Instead of creating completely new fibers from
waste, whole rolls of deadstock fabric, leftover garments (typically from overstocking) and pre-worn items are reworked into new pieces. Often unique one-
offs, Zalando, Christy Dawn and Deadwood riff-off these collections being limited and exclusive.

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RECYCLING & UPCYCLING

Acts of social good are promoting recycling and sustainable buys.

As well as monetary incentives, brands also look to acts of social good, such as clothing donations or eco-friendly initiatives, to encourage recycling and the
purchase of responsibly sourced products. Spanning international brands such as Uniqlo to smaller sustainability advocates such as United by Blue and
Kickstarter brand Wado, these do-good incentives include ocean trash removal and tree planting.

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AWARENESS CAMPAIGNS
Environmental awareness campaigns educate consumers.

The growing awareness of the environment sees retailers using window displays and in-store signage to educate customers on the impact of waste and its effect
on the environment. The oceans and waterways are the focus in United By Blue's More Splash. Less Trash and Kolon Sport's Sea Horse Sea Love campaigns, while
landfill and recycling statistics are used to deliver some hard truths at H&M and Nomad Tribe.

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LOW IMPACT MANUFACTURE

Water saving and low impact manufacturing methods are key.

A focus on saving water, eco-friendly farming methods and the use of low-impact fibres highlights the shift towards more sustainable manufacturing at mid-
market level. Responsibly sourced cottons and water-saving denim finishes prevail as scalable methods, as seen at Levi's, Gap and Marks & Spencer, while
pesticide and chemical-free manufacturing, including use of flax, is noted at Uniqlo and Arket.

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ECO PACKAGING
Recycled & eco-friendly materials extend to packaging.

The recycling message also extends to packaging, as mid-market players begin to roll out recycled and eco-friendly designs, both online and offline. Inditex is an
important advocate, not only in its use of sustainable materials, but also through its Green to Pack initiative, aimed at increasing the amount of products in each
shipment and improving the separation, reuse and recycling of old packaging.

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FOCUS ON DENIM
Jeans show the highest share of sustainable products.

Denim has long been a focus for sustainability initiatives. For Pre-Fall 2018, the jeans category holds the highest share of sustainable products in the US and UK
at 6% and 9%, as retailers continue to focus on organic cotton and recycled fibers to reduce environmental footprint. Manufacture methods that conserve water
and use non-toxic treatments are called out at M&S and Holt Renfrew.

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ECO SLOGANS
Eco-friendly sentiments extend to slogan tees.

Eco-friendly sentiments extend to slogan tees in line with growing environmental awareness. Nodding to slacktivist trends, phrases such as 'Save The Arctic'
reinforce the message, with cartoons lending a subversive edge at The North Face and Dedicated. Organic cotton and recycled polyester is noted at Zara, while
The North Face reuses fibers from single-use plastic bottles in its Bottle Source Collection.

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THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY

Re-commerce & leasing feeds into the circular economy.

A shift towards a circular model of consumption sees retailers beginning to experiment with re-commerce initiatives. Denim has long been a focus for the resale
of repaired or vintage styles, pioneered by Levi's and Nudie Jeans' decision to extend their Re-Use range online. Depop's second standalone store and Fillipa K's
leasing service highlights the growing demand for more sustainable ways to buy apparel.

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SUSTAINABILTY

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