Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Projectile Loom
Projectile Loom
Fashionable: It has broad range of applications and the possibility of varying the fabric widths over
wide limits.
Reed widths: From 33cm with multi-width of weaving and depending on the width of the machine
type up to 220, 283, 334, 393 or 540 cm with single widths.
The weft and warp stop motions actuate first and reliably. The machine’s mode of operation
enables thread breakage to be required quickly and without any trace. Consequently, the
fabric has fewer faults.
Transport and storage are renationalized to a great extent.
Mechanical weaving preparations i.e. drawing-in, pinning of drop wires and knotting are
accepted practices.
Simple to operate and maintain.
Disadvantages:
o Projectile
o Projectile feeder
o Tensioner
o Weft brake
o Selvedge gripper
o Scissor
o Tucking needle
o Receiving unit
o Guide
o Picking stick
o Accumulator
(figure)
Mechanism:
Main parts:
o Cam shaft
o Picking cam
o Antifriction roller
o Toggle lever
o Pivot
o Torsion rod
o Link
o Torsion lever
o Picking lever
o Picker
o Roller fixed to the cam-2
o Curved contour of toggle lever-4
o Oil brake
Mechanism:
It is only used in projectile loom. And loom successful is fully depending on this mechanism. Torsion
rod in the twisted important part on this mechanism. The torsion rod is twisted around the fixed
position and the twisting is maximum 30. And the picking mechanism is function of this rod, it is
made by alloy metal. The twisting of tension rod is provided by the side way movement of the toggle
lever-4. When cam pushes the antifriction roller the side way movement is performed. The roller
fixed to the cam-2 will prevent the opposite movement. When the rollers (2) just free from the
curved contour then the side way movement of the toggle lever is released and picking is done. Oil
brake prevents the unlimited movement of the picking lever.
Picking force depends on the twisting of torsion rod. Twisting increases with the width of the loom
and coarseness of the weft yarn.
Cam beat-up mechanism or how the weft yarn is release from the projectile guide during beat up:
Mechanism:
When projectile runs through the guide unison with weft yarn lay in to the guide. The two
antifriction rollers follow the two cams it means antifriction roller-1 follow the outer profile of cam-1
and antifriction roller-2 so on. The nose of the cam-2 pressed the antifriction roller-2 at left side
direction. At instant the antifriction roller-2 moves downward by the curvature portion of cam. So
the sley right side and as a result the weft yarn releases from the guide by the slot of the guide and
at a time reed beat-up the newly inserted weft to the fell of the cloth.
If should be noted that two cams are used to limit the movement of the sley. Here smooth beat-up is
obtained by the rotary motion of cam and there is no eccentric motion.
Air jet loom
(fig)
Yarn package
Tensioner
Accumulator
Balloon breaker
Finger
PFT (Programmable filling tensioner)
PFT motor
Fixed main nozzle
Movable main nozzle
Movable main nozzle
Filling cutter
Shed
Relay nozzle
Filling detector
Waste cutter
FD-2
Air preparation (Stages involved to treat the air for air jet weaving):
Normal air will not use in the air jet machine. Because normal air contain dust particles oil and water
particle. Dust particles or oil or water of the weft yarn. The air preparation is described sequence
wise as below:
Attempts have been made to control uniform air jet pressure in air jet weaving.
1. Auxiliary jet: The pressure in jet is very important for accurate picking. To maintain this pressure
uniformly there is used auxiliary jet with main jet. The no of auxiliary jet per unit length is
increased with increasing of width of the loom.
2. Special construction of jet path: In this case, there are two metal plates both in upward and
downward of the warp line. This plate will place horizontally. It is wider in the feed position of
jet. As a result the flow path is formed as a triangular path. There may occur deflection in the
triangular passage which controls the air pressure.
3. Metal plates: In many looms there are used a series of thin very fine metal plates on the sley.
These plates are placed at right angle with weft line at a regular interval. There are holes in the
plates and at the ejecting side the holes are wider and gradually lower, which make a triangular
passage. By this triangular passage air jet is controlled. There is a slit in the plate. By which weft
are released during beat-up.
4. Hollow rapier insertion: Two hollow rapiers are inserted at every side of the loom. Air jet
passed through this hollow tube. Weft yarn is passing uniformly with this jet. By this air jet is
regularly controlled.
5. Relay nozzle system: The latest and more active system is relay nozzle system. Relay nozzles are
placed at a regular interval on the sley. This jet of relay nozzle carries the weft from one side to
another. By this system jet is regularly controlled.
The main defect in air jet weaving is due to air resistance there form pile up and buckle tip of
yarn.
Sometimes there is formed loop of weft yarn along weft direction due to variation of air
pressure.
Excess main nozzle pressure and low filling tension made snarl which is a fabric fault.
Due to variation of air pressure there is occurred filling stop which is also a weaving defect.
Due to setting of air pressure there occurs double pick which is a defect in weaving b air jet.
Excess air pressure of main nozzle causes miss pick or broken pick.
Rapier weaving
1. Rigid rapier.
a. Single rapier
b. Double rapier
i. Dewas system
ii. Gabler system
2. Flexible rapier
a. Single rapier
b. Double rapier
i. Dewas system
ii. Gabler system
Schematic diagram of weft insertion system in different rapier loom: (Principle of rapier loom)
(fig)
The weft insertion and transfer mechanism by Dewas double rapier: The Dewas double rapiers
system is shown in the figure:
(fig)
Description: In this system the yarn is gripped in each rapier head. The gripping unit usually consists
of a fixed point against which a spring loaded clamp presses to trap the meets a fised point on the
loom or sley mounting. These points open the clamps when the weft is to be picked up or released
outside the selvedge. The right hand head thus traps the weft at A and pulls it though the shed until
the rapiers meet. The head is then guided round point B and as the left hand head withdraws the
thread is trapped at C and pulled across the loom to complete insertion. In some looms the spring in
the delivery head is opened at the time of transfer. This is done by the special shaped profile of the
left hand rapier head and it will minimize the weft breaks at transfer. Furthermore, there is no
chance of the wefts being pulled out of the receiving spring.
The weft insertion system by Gabler lobule rapier system: The Gabler double rapiers system is
shown in the figure: (FIG)
Description: In Gabler system the weft is never gripped. It is placed opposite the cut-out A in the
right and rapier head and as the rapier advances towards the centre of the loom, the yarn passes
from its clamped position round the rapier head to the heads meet at the centre of the loom the
smaller left hand rapier head enters the yarn carrying right hand head. The thread at A is passed
under the spring loaded cover guide repositions the weft as C. The yarn can then slide through the
left hand rapier head as it is withdrawn so that the hair pin is straightened out.
Non woven Fabric
Introduction: Non-wovens are a sheet web or bat of natural and or man-made fibres or filaments
excluding paper that have not been covered into yarns and that are bonded to each other by any of
several means.
Non-woven: Non-woven are flexible porous product consisting of one or more fibre layers. The
separate fibres be preferently or oriented in one direction or may be deposited in a random manner.
They are bonded by chemical or mechanical processes into textile products. Non-woven are mainly
planner structures.
This relatively young of the textile industry has expanded enormously after the second world way
because of the high production rates and the resulting cost savings.
A smoother surface
A good dimensional stability
Almost identical elongation in all direction and allow easier manufacturing because e non-
woven do not frog.
Web formation
Web bonding
Drying
Curing
Web formation:
It is a creation of loosely joined structure by laying down fibres in one of several techniques including
but not limited to wet and dry laid webs spun bonding and casting films. Both staple and filament
fibres are used to form the web which is usually too weak to be used without additional processing.
Some well known web formation process describe below:
1. Wet-laid webs: Wet-laid non-wovens are made by modified papermaking process. Heat is
the fibres to be used are suspended in water. A major objective of wet laid non-woven
manufacturing is to produce structures with textile fabric characteristics primarily flexible
and strength at speeds approaching those associate with papermaking. Specialized paper
machines are used to separate the water from the water from the fibres to form uniform
sheet of material which is then honded and dried. In the roll good industry 5-10% of non-
wovens are made by using the wet laid technology.
It is formed by depositing and aqueous suspension of fibres onto a screen belt or a
perforated drum. Originally a paper making technique the process has been adapted to fibre
webs. It permits manufactures to use vary short fibres even those less than 0.5 inches long.
Wet laid are formed quite rapidly and can be less expensive than other non-woven if waste
fibre is used. The fibres are first suspended in water and then deposited onto a support
where water is removed and the web formed and dried. A bonding agent such as thermo
sensitive fibres or an adhesive may be incorporated in the suspension to bind the web
together as it dries.
Alternatively, following formation the web can be sprayed with a binder which seals the
fibre together once the web dries.
Water removal on drying is one of the most important steps in the wet-laid process.
Pressure, vacuum and heat are used to remove water from the sheet.
2. Dry-laid webs: A dry laid formed by a process similar to that used to produce a card sliver in
spinning. Fibres can be separated by suspending then in air stream in an air stream and
blowing then on to a belt or by using a mechanical card to form a uniform web on a moving
belt. The fibrics may be some what parallel to each other in a random web. They can be
made perpendicular alternating layers of fibres at right angles or the web may have parallel
fibre arrangement similar to that of a combed yarn web. Fibre bonding is achieved either
through the use of a binder sensitive or by the inclusion in the blend of heat sensitive fibres
which soften and fuse with other fibres helping to seal the final fabric.
3. Direct laid webs: In this process web are made for fibers upun from molten polymer. The
direct laid processes are: (a) Spun bonding (b) Melt blowing.
Spun bonding:
Spun bond fibers are produced by depositing extruded spun filaments onto a collecting belt in a
uniform random followed by bonding the fibres. The fibres are separated during the web laying
process by air jets or electrostatic charges. The collecting surface is usually perforated to prevent the
air stream from deflecting and carrying the fibres in an uncontrolled manner. Bonding imparts
strength and integrity to the web by applying heated rolls or hot needles to partially melt the
polymer and fuse the fibres together. Since molecular orientation increases the melting point of
fibres that are not highly drawn can be used as thermal binding fibres. Polyethylene or random
ethylene-propylene copolymers are used as low melting bonding sites. Spun bond products are
employed in carpet backing, geo-textiles and disposable medical or hygienic products. Since the
fabric production is combined with fibre production the process is generally more economical than
when using staple fibre to make non-woven fabric.
It is a process by which fabrics are produced directly from thermoplastic polymer such as polyester,
nylon, polypropylene, polyethylene. The molten polymer is extruded though a spinneretcooled
slightly in the air and laid on a moving conveyor belt to form a continuous web. As the web cools the
fibre bonded.
The pattern of the spun bonded fabrics and arrangement of the fibres can be varied in several ways.
The spinneret can be rotated to deliver filaments in different patterns and arrangements a jet of air
can be introduced to a angle the filaments and the conveyor of filaments at selected locations.
Fabric made by this process including Mirafi 140 made from nylon and polypropylene, Celestra from
polyethylene, Typar from polypropylene, Bondtex from polyester and Cerex from nylon and Bidien
from polyester.
Melt Blowing: Melt blowing (MB) is a process for producing fibrous webs or articles directly from
polymers or resins using high velocity air or another appropriate force to attenuate the filaments.
The MB process is one of the newer and least developed non-woven processed. This process is
unique because it is used almost exclusively to produce micro fibres rather fibre of the size of normal
textile fibres.
In this process, the molten polymer is forced through a spinneret into a high velocity air stream
(ATOMIZER). The impact of the air breaks the filament into short fibres, which then collect on a
moving belt to form a web. Thermal bonding secures the web.
Film fibrillation: It is a process that mechanical a plastic film so that it can be stretched and brooding
to form an open net. The embossing produces a weak ended area in the film so that stretching the
film along both axes creates opening in the film a non-woven net.
Web bonding: After the web is formed bonds between the fabrics must be strengthened and
stabilized. Webs are bonded by one of the following process:
Chemical bonding
Thermal or heat bonding
Mechanical bonding
Chemical bonding: In most instances the web is coated with a heat activate substance. When the
web is heated the substance forms a spot-weld effect at point of contact between fibres any
solvents that are present evaporate at higher temperatures leaving behind a structures of fibre
seated together at the weld points because no extraneous material is left on the fabric soften
materials are softer and have better draping properties than those bonded with adhesives. Binders
and adhesives used in making non-woven fabrics include acrylic latexes, polyvinyl acetate co-
polymers, polyvinyl chlorides co-polymers, nitriles, ethylene vinyl chloride and vinyl acetate-
ethylene.
Their singular characteristics reduce different properties in non-woven fabrics.
Acrylic latexes produce fabrics with softeners resilience high abrasion resistance and a good hand.
Fabrics design to disintegrate such as disposable diapers and sanitary products are often produced
with polyvinyl acetate, acetate co-polymer.
Nitriles, which retain their flexibility at low temperatures, are frequently selected for baggage foot
wear and simulated leather. Ethylene vinyl chloride is used in medical and surgical products vinyl
acetate ethylene is used mostly in wet wipes, towels and other products designed for one time use.
Thermal bonding: Heat and pressure can be applied to bind fibres into a web. The two common
thermal bonding methods are calendaring and air heating.
Air heating thermal bonding: through air thermal bonding involves the application of hot air to the
surface of the non-woven fabric. The hot air flows through holes in a plenum positioned just above
the non-woven. However, the air is not pushed through the non-woven as in common hot air ovens.
Negative pressure or suction, pulls the air through the open conveyor apron that supports the non-
woven as it passes through the oven. Pulling the air through the non-woven fabric allows much more
rapid and even transmission of heat and minimizes fabric distortion.
(fig)
Binder used in through air thermal bonding includes crystalline binder fibres bi-component binder
fibbers and powders. Bonding occurs at these points upon cooling. Products manufactured using
through air ovens tend to be bulky, open, soft, strong, extensible, breathable and absorbent. In
shortly in air heating, hot air fuses fibres within the web and on the surface of the web to make high
loft, low density fabrics. The hot air is blown through the web in a conveyor zed oven or sucked
through the web while it is passed over a vacuumed porous drum.
Calendaring thermal bonding: Calendaring is a kind of thermal bonding. In calendaring, time and
pressure is main factor for achieving desired quality in non-woven fabric. Then the woven fabric with
binder is passing through a heated roll and a rubber blanket. By this way a required pressure has
been given to that fabric to that fabric for bonding. The non-woven fabric is heat bonded by running
it between the roll and the blanket.
Calendared products are much less dense and papery. In shortly calendaring process, the web is
drawn over and between heated cylinders to produce strong, low loft fabrics.
Mechanical bonding: Mechanical bonding is the conventional and most popular method of
producing non-wovens. It entangles fibres to import strength and to dry laid webs. The most
common mechanical methods are:
1. Needle punching
2. Spun lacing or hydro entangling
1. Needle punching: The needle punch process is illustrated in figure. Needle punched non-wovens
are created by mechanically orienting and interlocking the fibres of a spun bonded or carded
web. This mechanical interlocking is achieved with thousands of barbed felting needles
repeatedly passing into and out of the web.
In needle punching, barbed needles are punched vertically through the web to hook and
entangle tuff of fabrics. Needle punched non-wovens resemble felt in appearance they are made
primarily from other than wool characterized by high density combined with some bulk.
Two basic steps are involved in the construction of needle punching non-wovens.:
a) The fibre web or batt prepared by either carding or air laying techniques is fed into a
machine with specially designed needles.
b) The batt moves on a substrate between a metal bed plate and a stripper plate the needles
punch through the plates and the fibre web reorienting the fibres so that mechanical
interlocking or bonding occurs among the individual fibbers. This is shown in the figure:
(Fig)
Needle punching durable fabric such as carpet other floor covering, wall covering, blanket, padding,
insulation, industrial fabrics.
So far, there are many different specific terms for spun laced non-woven like jet entangled, water
entangled and hydro entangled or hydraulically needled. The term spun lace is used more popularly
in the non-woven industry. In fact manufacturing system that employs jetsof water to entangle
fibres and high strength are the major characteristics that make spun lace non-woven unique among
non-wovens.
Laying of fibre: For bonding different types laying are used. Those are:
1. Parallel laying: This process is done at carding machine for dry laid.
2. Cross laying: This process is done in carding machine at crossing technique for mechanical
bonding.
3. Random laying: Randomly laying is done for wet laid and direct laid.
The appearance of non-woven fabric may be paper like, felt like or similar to that of woven
fabrics.
They may have a soft, resilient hand or they may hard stiff or boardly with the little pliability.
They may be as this as tissue paper of many times thicker.
Non-wovens may be translucent opaque.
Their porosity may be range from low tear and butt strength to very tensile strength.
They may be fabricating by gluing, heat bonding or sewing (punching).
The drapibility of non-wovens varies from good to none at all.
Some non-wovens have excellent launder ability, others have none. Some may be dry-cleaned.
Bonding agent can be added to a non-woven during its manufacture using a size press as a liquid or
foam or foam or spraying or by rotary screen printing. The properties of webs bonded in this way
depend on the base web structure and properties the characteristics of the bonding agent polymer
(relative stiffness or softness, relative strength and resilience) the relative properties of the bonding
agent and substrate web after drying and cross linking and the method of addition. Generally size
press impregnation products a relatively dense product with superior binder distribution while spray
foam and print bonding produce thicker softer less dense webs that are somewhat weaker.
The most common bonding agent used in wet-laid non-wovens is a water-based emulsion or
dispersion. Its name is latex.
Use of non-woven fabrics: In general, on-woven may be divided into two groups, durable and
divided into two groups, durable and disposable.
Durable non-wovens have wide applications. These include apparel, such as for caps interlinings
home furnishings such as for draperies upholstery, mattress padding and carpet backing. Industrial
uses such as filters insulation and road bed stabilization sheeting.
Disposable non-wovens are essentially for one time uses but some such as dust cloths may be
laundered and reused a few times. General applications include diapers sanitary napkins, surgical
and industrial masks bandages and towels.
1. Fusible (Interlining)
2. Film fabrics
3. Coated fabrics
Bounding agent:
The term of bounding agents:
In the form of powder: Polymers thermoplastic or thermosetting are spread onto non-
wovens in powder form and treated thermally the boonding is good and chooses is limited.
It is applied to lower quality of filling materials car doors, panels, packing materials.
In the form of dispersion: Polymers are in collard dispersed form (emulsion) as aqueous
phase. Such systems are most often used. The aqueous phase can contain arrange of other
components. Such as protective collards, softening agents, pigments, anti-oxidants, anti
static agents, water repellent agents etc. such polymer dispersion usually have an anionic
nature the polymers particle size range between 0.1-0.5 micrometer. The ph of the
dispersion can be between 2-10.
1. Adhesive powder: Both for the chemically bonded and for mechanically bonded non-
wovens the bonding agent must add to the strength of the article. Hence a bonding agent
must first place that have good adhesion with fibre. A bonding agent with a cellulosed
because of formations of hydrogen bonds. Polymers that do not possess this reactive group
must assure adhesion through vender wales bonding force.
2. Strength: The harder the bonding agent the harder and stronger the article and lower the
tear strength. Supple non-woven is less strong but have a higher tear strength. At the
moment of the best compromise must be found between supple non-woven can be
increased of swelling agents.
A smoother surface.
A good dimensional stability.
Almost identical elongation in all direction.
Allow easy manufacturing.
Type of automation: Two types of automation can be distinguished: that of a single m/c and that of
a set of two or more m/cs that produce that produce the same thing.
In the first case, automation refers to two fabric units of the m/c namely a stop motion unit that
ensure the correct operation of the m/c and a programming unit for operations performed by
particular of it.
Stop motion unit: Object of the stop motion: Automation of the stop motion unit is aimed at
improving the control of:
Yarn feeding by stopping the m/c case in case of yarn breakage excessive knots in the yarn
excessive tension and that like.
Working element that take direct part in knitting (Cams, needles that like).
Fabric quality which is eliminating the causes of defects in the fabric such as variation in
tightness.
Yarn tension control and the signaling of yarn breakage are performed on the yarn section
between the bobbin and the feeding unit. But the furnishing reeds and the feeder yarn control in
taken over by another set of stop motion units that control yarn tension and feeding speed and
signal yarn breakages before the yarn reaches the needles.
These stop motion unit operate on mechanical or electron mechanical principles.
Principles: The yarn controlling element is a set of balanced lever. A yarn breakage unbalances it
causing the emission of a light signal that indicates the fault and sheet off the motor. In both
interlock and warp knitted fabrics holes causes by yarn breakage are comparatively small so a rather
sensitive stop motion device must be used to detect them. Photo electric cell devices for this
purpose have been introduced recently. The principle of operation of such a device consists in
throwing a beam of light on the fabric. When a hole appears the light passes through it and sets the
photo electric cell into operation. The photo electric current after amplification switches off the
electric motor and stop the machine. In interlock m/c, the light beam is thrown through the rotating
fabric and in warp knitting m/c the photo electric cell passed over the entire width of the fabric
beneath which there is a mirror when a hole in the fabric appears the light in reflected setting the
photo electric cell into operation.
Programming Unit: Automation of programming unit concerns the operation of the main element of
the knitting m/c that is needles, sinkers, presser, transfer needles, feeders and the like. An automatic
programming unit consists of three functionally coupled basic elements: a control element, a
transmitting element and an adjusting element.
Mechanically operating control element can consist of chains, tapes, discs, drawn and cam or
combinations of cams and drawn, discs and drums or tapes and drums, controls elements of this
kind are suitable for production area.
The size of the pattern depends on the number of needles selectors that are appropriate to the size
of programming unit. Recently electronic programming elements have been introduced. The
morafronic m/c which is built by the moral company (German) is unexampled of an electronically
programs and knitting m/c a film tape is used on which 26 rows of point are marded. A light beam is
thrown through this tape on to a set of photo diodes in which an electrical signal is generated. After
amplification this current is transmitted unit signals by potentiometers.
After further amplification the signals are used for the selection of needles in the cam boxes.
Another example of programming automation is the production of fully fashioned garments; such as
stockings. The designed shape of the garment is obtained by means of loop transfer (Narrowing and
widening) or by changing the needle workers in the m/c. Very complex patterns can be obtained by
combining these two methods. Narrowing and widening of the fabric by loop transfer is commonly
used on fully fashioned and automation V bed m/c. A special transfer mechanical is used for this
purpose. Control in pusses is transferred for the m/c from a central control unit that consists of a
drum and a chain. Loop transfer is used to produce garments of the relatively simple shape if a more
complicated shape is required other knitting elements are used namely feeders of pressers.
Needle selection is also possible in flat and circular knitting m/c. By means of jack and needle
selection some of the needles may be switched off while the others continue knitting. In this way the
knitted fabric can be made to pre-selected shape and sizes.
Exploitation of the optimum operating conditions of m/cs that produce a variety of knitted
fabrics with different features.
Improvement of fabric quality by reducing breakage of needles yarns.
Shortening the production process and increasing of machine efficiency by eliminating some
technical operation.
More efficient use of factory space by reducing the area occupied by m/c (especially in the
case of continuous line).
Reduction of labour input and reduction of production cost.
The production of knit goods from yarns containing man made
fabric
Knitting conditions:
Knitting elements: Before knitting it is necessary to examine carefully the conditions and functional
correctness of all elements of the machine that into contact with the yarn or that participate in the
loop forming process. This particularly concerns the cams, needles guide and yarn holders. Here the
damaged or imperfectly working elements should be replaced. The surfaces of needles and holders
should be smooth so as to avoid snagging the yarn passing through them.
These precautions are especially important in the knitting of textured and high-bulk yarns which
have a strong tendency to snag. Good results can be obtained by the use of chromium guides which
are twice as resistant to damage as the conventional guides.
Yarn tension: The uniformity and stability of yarn tensions in all working system of m/cs are of great
importance in the processing of manmade fabrics. Good results may be obtained by using
compensatory feeding devices with control adjustments the optimum yarn tension measured near
the feeder during the knitting process should not excess 0.1 to 0.2 g/den (0.9 to 1.8gm/tex)
Fibrous dust: The fibrous dust given off from the yarn during processing must be removed from the
m/c by means of a pneumatic installation such as a membrane compressor which prevents it from
setting in neighboring m/cs. The condition of the air should be as given above when air humidity is
below 40% fibre rigidity and fragility increase simultaneously with a decrease in its possibility.
Polypropylene: The parameters adopted for fabrics knitted from natural fibres can be used with w
polypropylene fibres. In designing knitted fabrics containing polypropylene fibres. The change of
yarn diameter that results from their small specific weight (0.91gm/cm3) must be taken into
consideration. Accordingly a finer count of polypropylene yarn must be used to obtain a knitted
fabric of the same thickness and covering properties as when natural fibres are used.
Until this time, propylene filament yarns habe not been generally used in the production of knitted
under wear or outer wear. Knitted use fishing nets, packing, materials and knitted show fabrics are
the chief products.
Poly vinyl alcohol: The parameters of the knitting process from those yarns are analogous to those
used with natural fibre yarns. Polyvinyl alcohol yarns are used in under wear, outerwear or socks.
1. High-bulk yarns: High bulk yarns are most often made from poly-acryl nitrile fibres. Bulked yarns
adopted for knitting are used either in shrunk or in shrunk or non-shurnk form. The metric yarns
counts range from 18 to 36 nm and for the non shrunk form. The metric yarn is used. If non-
shrunk yarn is used the yarn after shrinkage will be 14-18% lower than the initial count with
previously shrunk high bulk yarns, the density of the fabric should be from 15-20% lower than
for stander yarns, taking into account the increase in yarn thickness after shrinkage.
How even when non-shrunk high bulk yarns are used the raw fabric should about 40% looser
than the knitted fabric produced from standard yarn because as a consequence of shrinkage the
stitch density of the knitted fabric will be increased about 25%. The residual density components
for the increase of yarn diameter after shrinkage. During the knitting of reframing the stitch
density must be from 15-20% greater than in body of the fabric. High bulk yarns are used in
production of knitted fabrics on m/cs of the cottons patent type of on flat bed and circular latch
needle m/c. These knitted are intended for use in outer wear.
2. Texture yarn: The changes of yarn stricture cause by texturing process cause an increase in
volume. This increase difference according to the kind of yarn and the process used. The highest
values are achieved with welanca yarn and the lowest value of undulated (Agilon) of looped
(Tasin) yarns. Because of this increase in volume after the texturing process it is necessary to
correct the factor relating to the yarn count taking into consideration the requirement
connected to the cover factor. Outerwear, batching suits and hosiery constitute the essentials
assessment of product made from textured yarns.
Yarn preparation for weft knitting
Technological functions:
Lubrication of filament yarn: Generally fluids are used as lubricants. These include:
Important factor:
Lubrication of spun yarn: Present practice is to apply a thin film of wax on to the yarn surface.
Normally two systems for waxing applied. Those are:
In this system a pin pass the yarn which is placed over a wax disc. By this way yarn is passing through
the film of wax.
3 point waxing system: (fig)
In this processes yarn passing through some wax disc. There different pin at different position give
pressure the yarn for coating wax.
Waxing parameters: The amount of wax deposited on to the yarn surface depends on the tension in
the yarn. By controlling the yarn tension, we control the wax on the yarn.
Cost of quality:
Manufacturing cost:
Material cost.
Labour cost.
Production cost.
Defect cost.
Overhead and others.
Defect costs:
√ Tex
TF=
S. L
Multi-axial fabric: A warp knitted construction in which 3 or more substantially straight threads are
inserted at different angles to each other. For example: vertically, horizontally and diagonally.
Weaving of tri-axial fabric: A system of weaving that interlace two sets of warp ends and one sets of
picks in such a way that the three sets of threads from a multitude of equilateral triangles. The
resulting fabric has excellent bursting, tearing and abrasion resistance.
Uses of multi-axial fabrics: Multi-axial fabrics, composed of high tenacity yarns have raised great
interest among the products of technical textiles.
There is no doubt that fabrics are suitable for reinforcement of composite materials and forecasted
markets are the aviation, marine, auto and sports equipment industries.
Unfortunately, most of the experiments involved military organizations so that the amount of data is
restricted. It is known however that extensive ballistic tests are being conducted to test the
properties of the structure for personnel and armored vehicle protection.
Lightweight construction profiles are another example of the multi-axial use. Moulded shapes of
multi-axial fabrics also used. The multi-axial arrangement of yarns provides the ideal reinforcement
for such dome construction.
The multi-axial Rachel machine: The knitting of the structure combines four separate yarn sets
which are connected in the following way:
1. A fully threaded ground guide bar knits a 1×1 lapping movement which is used to bind all other
fabric elements together.
2. A fully threaded guide bar continuously mis-lapping is used to insert straight warp yarns into the
structure. One yarn is inserted between each two wales.
3. The weft insertion magazine placed at the back of the m/c feed one straight weft yarn every
knitted course. The principle of laying the yarn behind the back of the needle.
4. The diagonal placing elements are a new development which at the moment is used only on this
m/c type.
Each guide bar by moving in the same direction places its yarn in a diagonal formation actor the
width of the fabric.