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FASHIONING AUTHORSHIP
IN THE LONG
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
Stylish Books of Poetic Genius
Gerald Egan
Series Editors
Anne K. Mellor
Department of English
University of California, Los Angeles
Los Angeles, California, USA
Clifford Siskin
New York University
New York, USA
Palgrave Studies in The Enlightenment, Romanticism and the Cultures of
Print
Fashioning
Authorship in the
Long Eighteenth
Century
Stylish Books of Poetic Genius
Gerald Egan
Department of English
California State University at Long Beach
Long Beach, California, USA
This study was born of my fascination as a doctoral student with the pages
of old books, particularly with the copper-engraved portraits of poets in
fashionable dress that often served as frontispieces. Under productive
pressure to come up with a dissertation idea, this early fascination evolved
into a conviction about the discourse of authorship that arose in Britain in
the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries in parallel to a rapidly expanding
print market. One view of poetic genius in this period, I surmised, held
that this transcendent faculty might—paradoxically—reside in the lady or
gentleman of fashion.
The current study attempts to develop and substantiate that early
surmise through a mix of approaches: book history, Enlightenment and
twentieth-century philosophy, visual studies, and material analyses of fash-
ions in books and in dress. While recent studies of Romantic and eigh-
teenth-century authorship focus cursorily if at all on the material history
of the book, and studies in book history say little about the author as a
public figure of fashion, the current study seeks to bring these two con-
siderations together, integrating techniques of bibliographical description
with contemporary and recent understandings of both the material and
the intellectual histories of texts in order to see the books of Alexander
Pope, Mary Robinson, and Lord Byron anew. At specific points in their
careers, each of these poets dealt ambivalently with the public percep-
tion that authorial genius might be embodied—indeed, eroticized and
marked by physical frailty—in the figure of fashionable contemporane-
ity. This study proposes that we analyze this formation by focusing on
the textual, visual, and material properties of specific editions of these
vii
viii PREFACE
poets, books that were the centerpieces of their controversial careers and
objects of fashion in their own right. In line with my early fascination,
this study focuses in particular on images of the poets, authorized frontis-
pieces within the editions and unauthorized satirical prints without, both
types of image contributing to the perception among contemporary
readers that these poets might be admired and critiqued as fashionable
contemporaries.
This study provides textual and visual examples gleaned from original
archival research into the materials of the book trade, not only bindings,
letterforms, pages, and engravings, but also newspaper advertisements,
ephemera, and correspondence. Further, it considers these materials
through the twin prisms of Enlightenment philosophy and contemporary
theory. In respect to the former, it takes up the interventions of Locke
and Kant in connection with the visual theories of Jonathan Richardson,
William Hogarth, and Joshua Reynolds, English writers on painting
whose approaches are modulated by their commercial practices as portrait-
ists of fashionable Londoners (including fashionable authors). In respect
to the latter, it draws upon the theories of recent commentators such as
Jacques Derrida, Charles Taylor, and Phillipe Lacoue-Labarthe and Jean-
Luc Nancy to suggest that this eighteenth-century connection between
philosophical and visual discourses points to a more profound connection
between formulations of subjectivity and creative genius and the realm of
fashion, a link that is relevant to the construction of celebrity in our own
cultural moment.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
It has been my great good fortune in a brief career to have found two
ideal mentors, individuals without whose influence and support this book
would not have been written: the earlier of my debts is to Beth Lau, whose
scholarly rigor and generosity as a teacher kindled my wish to turn from a
career in high technology to one in literary scholarship, and whose friend-
ship continues to sustain me; my later debt is to Alan Liu who, from the
origins of this study as a rough dissertation idea, challenged me to advance
it temporally and intellectually even as, in matters both large and small, he
offered suggestions and critiques that seemed always to resonate with my
own deepest intentions.
I am indebted also to Julie Carlson, Laura Mandell, and William
Warner, who with patience and insight helped to oversee this study in its
earlier form as a dissertation. My learning was broadened and deepened
by conversations and encounters with an exceptional array of teachers and
fellow graduate students at the University of California, Santa Barbara,
and by inspiring colleagues and students in the Department of English at
California State University Long Beach.
Stephen Tabor and Alan Jutzi, rare book curators at the Huntington
Library, provided me with valuable assistance in the examination of eigh-
teenth-century poetic editions, some held by that wonderful library and
some carted in by me from me from my own heterogeneous collection.
Giles Bergel provided helpful information about a portrait of Alexander
Pope held by Oxford University’s Bodleian Library that is central to one
chapter in this book.
ix
x ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
xi
CONTENTS
1 Introduction 1
Bibliography 205
Index 213
xiii
LIST OF FIGURES
Fig. 2.1 “Void of Beauty” (left) and “More Varied and Pleasing Form”
(right), from Analysis of Beauty, Plate II by William Hogarth,
1753. Author’s collection 26
Fig. 2.2 Sir J. Reynolds by D. B. Pariset after P. Falconet, 1768,
frontispiece to The Works of Jonathan Richardson, 1793.
Author’s collection 37
Fig. 2.3 From Analysis of Beauty, Plate I by William Hogarth, 1753.
Author’s collection 37
Fig. 3.1 Closing couplet of Rape of the Lock followed
by imprint of lines from prior page from
The Works of Mr. Pope, 1717. Author’s collection 66
Fig. 3.2 Bleeding of ink on facing pages
from The Works of Mr. Pope, 1717. Author’s collection 67
Fig. 3.3 A pagination problem from The Works of Mr. Pope, 1717.
Author’s collection 68
Fig. 3.4 Mr. Pope by George White after Godfrey Kneller, 1732.
© The Trustees of the British Museum. All rights reserved 71
Fig. 3.5 Mrs. Mary Robinson by Joshua Reynolds, 1783–1784.
© \The Wallace Collection 71
Fig. 3.6 George Gordon Byron, Lord Byron
by John Henry Robinson after Richard Westall,
1831. © The Trustees of the British Museum.
All rights reserved 72
Fig. 3.7 “Heinrich von Veldeke” from the Codex Manesse,
ca. 1305–1340. © Heritage Image Partnership Ltd./
Alamy Stock Photo 73
xv
xvi LIST OF FIGURES
Introduction
On Tuesday next will be Published, A Print of Mr. Alexander Pope, done from
the Original Painting of Mr. Jervasi, by Mr. Vertue. Printed for Bernard
Lintott between the Temple Gates: where his Translation of Homer, and all his
other Pieces may be had.
The public offer for sale of this engraved portrait, a daring act of self-
promotion for a little-known twenty-seven-year-old, suggests that early
in his career Pope understood that poetic laurels might follow not just
from the artful arrangement of words on the pages of his books, but from
a carefully composed image of himself in full array, outfitted in periwig,
ruffled cuffs, and velvet jacket, as the early eighteenth-century “modish”
young man of fashion. The engraving would reappear two years later in
Pope’s Works of 1717, and its conspicuous size in relation to the book—
it had to be folded twice to fit into the quarto volume—indicates the
importance the image held for him. In his Preface to the book Pope
writes that “a good Poet no sooner communicates his works … but it is
imagined he is a vain young creature given up to the ambition of fame,”
the defensive assertion followed a page later by the complaint that “it is
with a fine Genius as with a fine fashion, all those are displeas’d at it who
are not able to follow it.” In portrait and prefatory text, in both instances
1
2 G. EGAN
Pope was among the first to grasp the promise that the book held for
those who sought to establish and maintain control over a public persona,
and the 1717 Works is thus one of the earliest in a series of authorial
attempts to represent genius through a deployment of image and text
in the printed book. In the chapters that follow, I examine this mode of
self-representation through close readings of poems and frontispiece por-
traits in editions of Pope, Mary Robinson, and Lord Byron, discovering
in these books a process of public image-making that anticipates (in the
case of Pope) and reflects (in those of Robinson and Byron) the crisis of
the self of the 1780s and 1790s that culminates politically in the chaos
of post-revolutionary France and intellectually in the critical philosophy
of Immanuel Kant. The aporia famously identified by Kant separates the
domain of nature, the sensible world of appearances in which all phenom-
ena are subject to the laws of causation, from the supersensible domain of
that which is essential to the moral and rational life: freedom, which by
definition transcends spatial and temporal conditions. Kant writes of “an
incalculable gulf fixed between the domain of the concept of nature, as the
sensible, and the domain of the concept of freedom, as the supersensible,
so that from the former to the latter … no transition is possible” (II. 176).
As beings who exist in the phenomenal world of space and time we are in
the Kantian view conditioned by and subject to the laws of nature; and yet
as free and moral beings we necessarily partake of that which transcends
that world, that which is self-caused, unconditioned, and distinct from
the sensible world of appearances. It is this “incalculable gulf” that Kant
addresses in the Critique of Judgment and that the German idealists and
early German romantics, in their responses to the corpus of Kant’s critical
philosophy, labored to close. The gulf, ultimately, is that of a noumenal
self inaccessible to the understanding and reason, a self unrepresentable
to itself. Kant’s proposed solution to this dilemma in the third Critique,
however tentative and qualified, is that through a faculty of reflective judg-
ment that discovers the beautiful and the sublime in the particularity of
nature, we might bridge this seemingly impassable gap. The product of
reflective judgment is what Kant terms the “aesthetic idea,” and the fac-
ulty that originates such ideas is genius.
This dilemma of an insuperable gulf between the material and the
immaterial had, however, been a problem for Enlightenment philoso-
phy since Descartes, and part of my argument is that Pope, Robinson,
and Byron engage with this dilemma in books that seek to clothe time-
less genius in the materials of fashionable contemporaneity. These three
4 G. EGAN
poets differ in fundamental ways: their origins and private lives, the shapes
that their public careers took and the decades in which these careers
progressed, the types of public personae that with uneven success each
attempted to present to an increasingly anonymous readership. It is in the
public personae, however, so carefully crafted and yet always just beyond
control, that Pope, Robinson, and Byron share a characteristic that sets
them largely apart from other authors of the period, for each enjoyed a
mode of contemporary fame founded as much on the visual presentation
of a distinctive physicality as on the textual presentation of truth in poetry.
This is a style of fame in which image becomes “image,” the accumula-
tion of textual and visual references made public that, in sum, exceeds
the allotment of fame usually accorded authorship in the eighteenth and
nineteenth centuries. The processes of image-making which each of these
poets sets in motion, over which each maintains only sporadic control,
are culturally and historically significant instances of what Kant, Novalis,
and Friedrich Schlegel refer to as Darstellung, the figural representation
of the unknowable in sensible form. For Pope, Robinson, and Byron
the medium for the representation of the noumenal self of genius—for
Darstellung itself—is the book, an object of fashion in its own right, which
emerges in this process as one of the primary vehicles for the practice of
self-representation that links fashion to the mysterious faculty of genius.
It is in part as a consequence of the influential cultural productions asso-
ciated with these three poets that the nascent figure of the autonomous
subject that emerges in the long eighteenth century is in one of its most
visible incarnations the book author: the poetic genius-celebrity variously
embodied in authorized and pirated editions manufactured and dissemi-
nated by congeries of collaborators, publishers, printers, patrons, pirates,
satirists, subscribers, painters, illustrators, and engravers, to name a few
of the parties to this process and to make clear that no single agent, no
autonomous subject, is responsible for this deployment.
The advertisement that Pope placed in the Daily Courant in August
1715 is an appropriate document with which to begin this investiga-
tion, as it brings into focus a core tenet of this study: that the forma-
tion of fashionable genius in the long eighteenth century is founded on
the image, specifically on the authorial portrait designed for commercial
distribution, either separately or bound in an edition which it authorizes
as frontispiece. In the authorial engravings featured in eighteenth- and
nineteenth-century books of poetry, the conventions of a burgeoning
visual culture sanctified the body of the poet as the Homeric or Sapphic
INTRODUCTION 5
the pages that follow that this matrix of characteristics helps to define
the public persona of each poet as flawed genius implicated in the snares
of contemporaneity—in the world, so to speak, of fashion—and that the
opposition of genius to fashion is most visible in the books, the complex
objects of fashion that are the centerpieces of these public careers. In its
focus on three singular poets, this study spans the century from Pope’s
optimistic embrace of fashion in the 1717 Works, followed by the abnega-
tion of fashion that will characterize his public image into the 1740s; to
Robinson’s ambivalence in her 1791 Poems about the fashionable image
on which her fame as actress and celebrity had in large part been based;
and finally to Byron’s rejection of fashion as an element of authorial celeb-
rity in his 1818 Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage, Canto IV, a refusal that is
despite itself a fashionable mode of public presentation. This century-long
narrative suggests that we might approach the evolution of “genius” in
the period—the movement from the early eighteenth-century supposition
that faculties of mental representation could provide a polite engagement
with the world, towards the later contrary formulation that the exercise
of these faculties at the highest levels of creativity disengages the genius,
sequestering him or her from society—in the contexts of the material book
and fashion.
Chapter 2, “Freedom, Nature, and the English School of Commercial
Art,” lays the theoretical foundation for this study by situating the
eighteenth-century theories of visual representation of Jonathan Richardson,
William Hogarth, and Joshua Reynolds in relation to Locke’s theories of
ideas and representation, and Kant’s articulation of figural representation
or Darstellung as the characteristic mode of genius. Richardson, Hogarth,
and Reynolds were not only theorists of the visual arts, but practicing por-
traitists familiar with styles of dress and personal presentation in eighteenth-
century London. The theories of visuality that Richardson formulated in
1715 would evoke a series of responses and reformulations in eighteenth-
century Britain that, taken together, constitute the theoretical-philosoph-
ical substratum of the English school of commercial art, a commerce- and
print-centered culture in which urbane, fashionable representations of
genius feature prominently. Richardson writes within memory of the 1688
Glorious Revolution and in the context of such consequent developments
as the loosening and ultimate removal of government restrictions on the
importation of paintings and engravings into England from continental
Europe in the 1690s1; the publication of Locke’s Essay (1689); the expira-
tion of the Stationers’ Company’s monopoly on printed books (1694) and
INTRODUCTION 7
Harold in this poem (which is also, variably, a book in its own right and
a component in the many collected editions of Byron’s works published
by John Murray) in conjunction with the absence of a conventional fron-
tispiece portrait, a lacuna that has characterized all of Byron’s authorized
editions up to this point. The absence of the portrait from Byron’s edi-
tions is a teasing ellipsis that—given his astonishing fame and notoriety
in the 1810s—would have been “visible” to the contemporary reader,
and in my analysis it points to Byron’s well-known alienation from his
readers and his corresponding, but less-remarked, detachment from the
publication process. The blank page that the reader sees opposite the title
page in such editions of Byron is a bibliographic code for the image of
Byron, a marker for his teasing and phantasmal presence and absence as
genius-celebrity. We can consider this ellipsis in the context of the “modu-
lar” form of distribution of Byron’s works that had evolved by 1818, one
in which—as John Murray’s advertisements make clear—Byron’s readers
could mix and match his works to fashion their own version of the poet
who had decisively absented himself from English society.
I propose now to return to 1715, however, segueing from Pope’s offer
for sale of an image of himself in the Daily Courant, which opened this
chapter, to the publication that same year of Jonathan Richardson’s semi-
nal Essay on the Theory of Painting. Let us examine how this first serious
English treatise on painting modulates and adapts the theories of art and
the body that I have begun to sketch out to the realities of 1715—to
those commercial, technological, and philosophical currents and condi-
tions in which a burgeoning post-Restoration market for private portrai-
ture evolves over the century into a rich milieu for the development of
fashionable genius.
Note
1. See Pears, pp. 52–54.
CHAPTER 2
11
12 G. EGAN
It is experience which provides the mind with ideas, and Locke stipulates
that “whatsoever is so constituted in Nature, as to be able, by affecting
our Senses, to cause any perception in the Mind, doth thereby produce
in the Understanding a simple Idea” (132). His point is that our most
basic of ideas—our impressions of color, motion, sweetness, and so on—
“convey themselves into the Mind” by way of our physical senses. The
faculty that Locke terms “sense” or “sensation” is therefore “the great
14 G. EGAN
Source, of most of the Ideas we have” (105). Ideas also convey themselves
into the mind through reflection, which Locke describes as “the Perception
of the Operations of our own Minds within us” (105). Although sensory
perception is the source of simple ideas, reflection builds upon these simple
impressions to furnish the “Understanding with another set of Ideas, which
could not be had from things without,” such as “Perception, Thinking,
Doubting, Believing, Reasoning, Knowing, Willing, and all the different
actings of our own Minds” (105). Reflection, then, encompasses our
awareness of our own mental operations—our self-awareness, so to speak.
Locke’s notion of reflection points also, however, to the possibility of
originality and creativity. For while we cannot create simple ideas, through
reflection on the operations of our own minds we can store new ideas. Locke
writes in this connection that sensation and reflection provide man with
the Groundwork, whereon to build all those Notions which ever he shall
have naturally in this World. All those sublime Thoughts, which towre above
the Clouds, and reach as high as Heaven it self, take their Rise and Footing
here: In all that great Extent wherein the mind wanders, in those remote
Speculations, it may seem to be elevated with, it stirs not one jot beyond
those Ideas, which Sense or Reflection, have offered for its Contemplation.
(117–18)
The “Ideas of Reflection,” Locke tells us, are the “Original of all Knowledge
[and] the first Capacity of Humane Intellect,” and his language suggests
that such ideas, which make possible those “sublime Thoughts, which
towre above the Clouds,” are in fact the “groundwork” of human creativ-
ity. We shall see that the element of Locke’s formulation which will come
to exert the strongest influence over Richardson and the theorists of the
visual arts who follow him in eighteenth-century Britain is the possibil-
ity that the “sublime thoughts” and “remote Speculations” of the genius
originate in the body, in “Impressions made on our Senses by outward
Objects” (117).
Locke’s formulation of the “endless variety” of ideas “painted” on the
mind’s blank canvas invited further visual analogy, and a generation later
Richardson responded in his Theory with a characterization of the visible
world as the “innumerable colours and figures for which we have no name”
(6). While Richardson does not categorize ideas with the same techni-
cal rigor and specificity as Locke, Lockean “ideas” feature p rominently
in his theory. The manifold of visible phenomena is comprised of ideas,
FREEDOM, NATURE, AND THE ENGLISH SCHOOL OF COMMERCIAL ART 15
E. GREVIN.—IMPRIMERIE DE LAGNY
BIBLIOTHÈQUE COSMOPOLITE
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NOTES:
[A] Elisabeth Barrett Browning, Poèmes et Poésies.
[B] Causeuses.
[C] Grand dîner.
[D] Improvisée.
[E] Maîtres d’hôtel.
[F] Causeuse.
[G] Petites tables.
[H] Barque hindoue.
[I] Voiture légère à deux roues.
[J] Deliriurm tremens.
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