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DCL Apparel Defect Classification Guide

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
222 views3 pages

DCL Apparel Defect Classification Guide

Uploaded by

Shoaib Aziz
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as XLSX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

DCL Resource Guide for Apparel (DCL)

The Defect Classification List (DCL) is used by PSQA to identify defects during DUPRO and FRI inspections.
‐ Product must conform to the designated Target Corporation Performance Specification.
‐ Accept or Reject decisions are made by the PSQA Field Inspector performing the inspection.

Critical Defects are unacceptable defects that could risk the safety and/or health of our guest as well as are in violation of regulatory procedures. Any Critical Defect found will fail the inspection.
Major Defects are serious defects that affect appearance, performance, durability or functionality to such a degree that a guest would not buy the product if they saw the defect. The defect would result in guest dissatisfaction. Major Defects are measured as 1 point.
Minor Defects are a departure from Target construction specifications and quality standards that may affect appearance, performance, durability or functionality and may reduce its salability at full price. This defect may result in guest return or unappealing
product presentation. Minor Defects are measured as 1 point.
### CRITICAL MAJOR MINOR NOT DEFECT Description
Category Defect Category Defect Code Defect Description Zone A Zone B Zone A Zone B Zone A Zone B Zone A or B Resource Guide for defect type
1 CONS01 Misaligned stripe/plaid/pattern/joint Misaligned stripe/plaid/pattern/joint: Irregular or not aligned pieces or fabric of
finished product. Misalignments (at cuff, armpit, center back collar, sleeve head,
unpaired sleeve length, uneven collar points, etc.) Check for the specification
requirements of the cutting requirement, random, balance, matching, not
Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A > 1/8" < Zone B ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/8" matching, minor allowance can vary based on MV approval for the pattern.
1/4” Zone B < 1/4” Repeat when needed. Way cutting for squares pattern.

1 CONS02-1 Symmetry and Balance: Irregular shape not symmetrical Symmetry and Balance: Not symmetrical. Irregular or distorted shape of finished
Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A <1/8" product, one side doesn't match with the mirrored shape of the other side, like
Zone A >1/8" < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/4" Zone B < 1/4” sleeves, side seam, armhole, sleeve hem, leg length.

1 CONS02-2 Symmetry and Balance: High-Low issue Symmetry and Balance: One side has a higher position or is bigger than other
Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A <1/8" side. Unbalanced position between left and right, like hi-lo pocket attached, hi-lo
Zone A >1/8" < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/4" Zone B < 1/4” collar point, placket point, etc.

1 CONS03-1 Improper Processing: Defective Gluing/Bonding Improper Processing: Glue not well distributed or incomplete covering in
Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A >1/8" < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/4" Zone A <1/8" corresponding area, causing un alignment or gap or insecure. Poor fusing on
Zone B < 1/4” interlining method.

1 CONS03-2 Improper Processing: Uneven Improper Processing: Appearance variance from dry process to laundry process:
Grinding/Sanding/Painting/Printing/Tacking Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/4" Zone B < 1/4” grinding, sanding, PP spray, drops paint, printing, tacking etc.
1 CONS03-3 Improper Processing: Washing Mark/Uneven Wet Process of Improper Processing: Appearance variance from wet process during laundry:
Dying/Tinting/Chemical Pickling Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/4" Zone B < 1/4” dying, tinting, chemical pickling, water marks, 3D whiskers.
1 CONS03-4 Improper Processing: Nap down vs. Nap up Improper Processing: Cutting is not as per nap down or up as required
X X consistently in same unit
1 CONS04-1 Mismatch Standard: Wrong Styling/Constructions X X Mismatch Standard: Styling or construction mismatches the approval sample or
specification requirement, stretch or shirring seam visible to guest, should be
alert the trend of defects in batches.
1 CONS04-2 Mismatch Standard: Wrong SPI/thread types X X Mismatch Standard: Incorrect SPI or thread type, not as per specification or
standard, should be alert the trend of defects in batches.
1 CONS04-3 Mismatch Standard: Grain line problem X X Mismatch Standard: Straight Cut, Cross Cut, Bias Cut not as per requirement,
should be alert the trend of defects in batches.

1 CONS04-4 Mismatch Standard: Different Material Feature X X Mismatch Standard: Different thickness, glossiness, transparency and hand feel
(Thickness/Glossiness/Transparency/Hand feel) against standard, should be alert the trend of defects in batches.

1 CONS04-5 Mismatch Standard: Fabric type/weight/fleeced different X X Mismatch Standard: Different fabric type, fabric weight, thread count, fleeced
Construction effect against standard, should batch processing for all items impacted, should be
alert the trend of defects in batches.
1 CONS04-6 Mismatch Standard: Mismatched Trims Mismatched Trims X X Mismatch Standard: Different hardware trims, zipper, button, snap, Velcro,
(zipper/button/snap/Velcro/elastic/lace/rivet/belt/eyelet/gro elastic, lace, rivet, belt, eyelet, grommet, sequin, etc., against standard, should
mmet/sequin etc.) batch processing for all items impacted. should be alert the trend of defects in
batches.

1 CONS04-7 Mismatch Standard: Mismatched Decoration (Printing, X X Mismatch Standard: Different decoration of print, embroidery, glitter techniques,
1 CONS05 Embroidery, Glitters etc.)
Broken stitches X X against standardNot
Broken stitches: should batch stitches
continue processing
duefor
to all items or
broken impacted, should (stone
cut or washing be alert
washing could destroy the seam and make stitches broken sometimes).

1 CONS06 Skipped stitches X X Skipped stitches: Stitches skipped but continued.


1 CONS07 Run off stitches Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone B > 1" Zone A < 1/4" Zone B ≥ 1/4" ≤ Zone B < 1/4" Run off stitches: Stitches off track or seam line not smooth.
1"
1 CONS08-1 Stitching Repair: Needle holes Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone B > 1" Zone A < 1/2” Zone B ≥ 1/2" ≤ Zone B < 1/2” Stitching Repair: Poor re-sewing quality. Series of hole track on fabric go through
1" by needle. If the needle cuts and makes holes into the fabric, it should be
identified as a hole defect in textile category.
1 CONS08-2
CONS09 StitchingStitching:
Missed Repair: Repair
Missedmisaligned
bar tack/tacking/sewing Zone AX≥ 1/4" X Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Stitching Repair: Poor
Missed Stitching: re-sewing
Missed quality. Top
bar tack/tacking stitchingsomewhere
or sewing repair or overlap
againstatapproved
joint.
The
samplemisaligned joint or off track with extra stitches that are exposed, an overlap
is allowed in stitching 1/2". Too much thread on the overlapping stitch due to
1 CONS10 Puckering/Shirring Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone A < 1/2” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Puckering/Shirring: Excessive
repair causing bad appearance. puckering or shirring, not as per specifications and
approvals. Spot shirring not uniformly distributed.

1 CONS11 Open Seam X X Open seam: Open seam caused by broken stitches at side seam inside or by
washing and drying process.
1 CONS12 Seam Performance: Seam slippage X X Seam Performance: Seam slippage/grin.
1 CONS13-1 Seam Outline: Fullness/Ease Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone A > 1/8" < Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone A < 1/8" Seam Outline: Excessive fullness or ease on surface, identifying the severity to
1/2” Zone B < 1/4” see how much was exceeded after smoothing surface, but not for the wrinkle
area. It will be more reasonable to measure after wearing.
1 CONS13-2 Seam Outline: Crocked/Wavy seam Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone A < 1/2” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Seam Outline: Seam look crooked or wavy, not aligned.
1 CONS13-3 Seam Outline: Seam tension loose or tight Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Seam Outline: Inner or outer seam tension too loose or too tight. Tight thread
tension causing thread or fabric to break when normal tension applied to total
seam length.

1 CONS13-4 Seam Outline: Exposed lining /Inerface Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Seam Outline: Lining, interlining seam allowance exposed outside.

1 CONS13-5 Seam Outline: Skewing/Twisted Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone A < 1/2” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Seam Outline: Seam outlook be skewing or with dragging lines like whiskers after
wearing. Severe torque or twist evidenced by roping appearance at seams or
seam that won't lay flat.
1 CONS14 Other construction defects Other construction defects than listed.

2 VISU01 Threads ends Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone A < 1/2” > Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone A < 1/4” Thread ends: Stitching threads or loop attached at end of seam. Hanging threads
1/4" Zone B < 1/2” visible outside or inside products.

2 VISU02 Excessive Dirt Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone B > 3" Zone A < 1/2” Zone B ≥ 1/2" ≤ 3" Zone B < 1/2” Excessive dirt: Excessive dirt, dust, glubby, unclean.

2 VISU03 Color stain X X Color Stain: Staining with other color. Color from one area bleeds to another area.

2 VISU04 Oil stain Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone B > 3" Zone A < 1/2” Zone B ≥ 1/2" ≤ 3" Zone B < 1/2” Oil stain: Oil spot. Oil spots with contrast visible at arm's length, adversely
affecting appearance.
2 VISU05 Trimming: Frayed / Rough edges Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone B > 3" Zone A < 1/2” Zone B ≥ 1/2" ≤ 3" Zone B < 1/2” Trimming: Fabric threads, frayed and rough edges.
2 VISU06-1 Cleanness: Excessive Glue Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone B > 3" Zone A < 1/2” Zone B ≥ 1/2" ≤ 3" Zone B < 1/2” Cleanness: Excessive glue, glue stained.
2 VISU06-2 Cleanness: Pen Mark (magic pen is not allowed for Target Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone B > 3" Zone A < 1/2” Zone B ≥ 1/2" ≤ 3" Zone B < 1/2” Cleanness: Visible mark caused by pen or magic pen.
products)
2 VISU07 Smell: Unpleasant odor X X Smell: Unpleasant odor. Textile defect include any stuffing material (such as
down & feather) emitting a strong, unpleasant odor.
2 VISU08-1 Surface appearance: Scratch Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Surface appearance: Visible fabric/textile scratch.
2 VISU08-2 Surface appearance: Dents Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Surface appearance: Visual dents marks on surface.
2 VISU08-3 Surface appearance: Bubbles Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Surface appearance: Bubble air inside fabric/textile layers.
2 VISU08-4 Surface appearance: Cracks/Splits Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Surface appearance: Visual cracks or splits.

Visual
2 VISU08-5 Surface appearance: Burned/Scorched Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Surface appearance: Heat cutting, burned material.
2 Visual VISU08-6 Surface appearance: Peeling off Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Surface appearance: Peeling off on surface or visible area.
2 VISU08-7 Surface appearance: Wrinkle/Crease Mark/Feed Dog Mark Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone B ≥ 3" Zone A < 1/2” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Surface appearance: Wrinkle, crease mark or feed dog mark on visible area.

2 VISU09-1 Partial color change: Shine of over pressing / hanger press X X Partial color change: Any defects from pressing or shining surface from over
marks pressing or overlays. Including missing / over pressing, irregular crease marks
after pressing, hanger press marks etc.
Pressing defects include shine, moiré, color change, scorching or any other
conspicuous “hard” pressing defect. Hanger press marks: could count as defect if
still remaining on products after 30 minutes removing from cartons. Exception is
given to some fabric like rayon, challis, or similar which unavoidable due nature of
fabric characteristic.
Excessive outside shining due to bad setting of heat transfer machine.

2 VISU09-2 Partial color change: Partial color changed/off color X X Partial color change: Loosing /off Color, color fading, yellowing, redden etc.,
adversely affecting appearance.
2 VISU09-3 Partial color change: Shading within one unit. X X Partial color change: Shading part or pieces in same unit. Shaded parts/thread
and/or visible components, adversely affecting appearance.
2 VISU10 Entire color variation: Color variance between product VS X X Entire color variation: Color variance between product VS Archroma standard,
Archroma standard, Vendor color standard or approved shade Vendor color standard or approved shade bands.
bands
2 VISU11 Other visual defects Other visual defects than listed.

3 PAKG01-1 Packing Method: Damaged /damp/unsecured retail packaging X X Packing Method: Damaged /damp/unsecured retail packaging

3 PAKG01-2 Packing Method: Incorrect Placement (retail X X Packing Method: Incorrect Placement (retail hangtag/hanger/DPCI/size label)
hangtag/hanger/DPCI/size label)
3 PAKG01-3 Packing Method: Missing product labeling/retail packaging X X Packing Method: Missing product labeling/retail packaging (Backstamps,price
(Backstamps, price tags, labels, packaging slips, size sticker, tags, labels, packaging slips, size sticker, hanger or size clip, shipping mark, event
hanger or size clip etc.) label if applicable, etc.).
3 PAKG01-4 Packing Method: Incorrect case pack assortment/ VCP SSP X X Packing Method: Incorrect case pack assortment/ VCP SSP"

3 PAKG02-1 Retail Package Printing: Incorrect printed retail packaging X X Retail Package Printing: Incorrect printed retail packaging (Retail price/ UPC/DPCI)
Packaging (Retail price/ UPC/DPCI) should be alert the trend of defects in batches.
3 PAKG02-2 Retail Package Printing: Incorrect size, style, color printed on X X Retail Package Printing: Incorrect size, style, color printed on unit box / polybag,
unit box / polybag should be alert the trend of defects in batches.
3 PAKG03-1 Mishandling: Product dimension folded not as per specification X Mishandling: Product dimension folded not as per floor ready specification in
batch.
3 PAKG03-2 Mishandling: Wrinkles / out of shape due to carton too small X Mishandling: Wrinkles / out of shape due to carton too small or too big or
or too big or insufficient protection insufficient stuffing protection, count for carton unit when needed, should be
alert the trend of defects in batches.
3 PAKG03-3 Mishandling: Trimmed thread end / dust floated upon X X Mishandling: Trimmed thread end / dust floated upon without clean up in batch.

3 PAKG04 Other packaging defects Other packaging defects than listed

4 SARE01-1 Label and Retail packaging Related: Children sleepwear size X X Label and Retail packaging Related: Children sleepwear size label, tracking label
label, tracking label lot number for FPUs/GPUs of Flame lot number for FPUs/GPUs of Flame Retardant, hangtag for snug fitting not as
Retardant, hangtag for snug fitting not as CPSC required CPSC required

4 SARE01-2 Label and Retail packaging Related: Tracking label on product X X Label and Retail packaging Related: Tracking label on product and packaging for
and packaging for Children product not as required Children product not as required

4 SARE01-3 Label and Retail packaging Related: Label/retail packaging does X X Label and Retail packaging Related: Label/retail packaging does not accurately
not accurately reflect the Country of Sale language reflect the Country of Sale language. Missing RFID.

4 SARE01-4 Label and Retail packaging Related: Incorrect/illegible/missing X X Label and Retail packaging Related: Incorrect/illegible/missing Children product
Children product Warning Label, CARB, Prop 65 Warning Label, Warning Label, CARB, Prop 65 Warning Label, Care or law label
Care or law label
4 SARE01-5 Label and Retail packaging Related: Incorrect fiber content, X X Label and Retail packaging Related: Incorrect fiber content, country of origin,
Safety & country of origin, registration# registration#
4 Regulatory SARE02-1 Product Related: Insect infested X X Product Related: Insect infested
4 SARE02-2 Product Related: Visible Mold X X Product Related: Visible Mold
4 SARE02-3 Product Related: Any sharp point or edge X X Product Related: Any sharp point or edge on product.
4 SARE02-4 Product Related: Metal Contamination/Broken Needle found X X Product Related: Metal Contamination/Broken Needle found in product.
in product
4 SARE02-5 Product Related: Small part or loose attachment (children X X Product Related: Small part or loose attachment (children products)
products)
4 SARE02-6 Product Related: Scissors/Knife Inside Carton X X Product Related: Scissors/Knife Inside Carton
4 SARE02-7 Product Related: Any sewing technique used to avoid import X X Product Related: Any sewing technique used to avoid import duty
duty
4 SARE02-8 Product Related: Non-compliant with children products safety X X Product Related: Non-compliant with children products safety guideline. For
guideline. Children sleepwear, if the thread end over ¼” on CSW _ Tight fit product, it should
be a critical defect.
4 Other Safety & Regulatory Defects Other safety and Regulatory defects than listed that adversely affect appearance
SARE03

5 FUNC01 Function of Product: Finished product not function properly as X X Function of Product: Finished product not functioning properly as end use.
end use.
5 FUNC02 Function of Trims & Components: Component or trim not X X Function of Trims & Components: Component or trim not operate or perform as
Function operate or perform as intended (Zipper, button hole, snag. intended (Zipper, button hole, snag. Velcro, buckle etc.).
Velcro, buckle etc.).
5 FUNC03 Other function defects Other function defects than listed that affects product performance and
appearance

6 COMP01-1 Defective Hardware Trims: Defective Trims but no impact for X X Defective Hardware Trims: All kind of defective trims in quality and quantity but
safety and use does not impact safety and use, including scratch, rusting, dent , damaged on
hardware trims, paint off at zipper head, uneven button placement etc. Ripping
seam edge on zipper slider.

6 COMP01-2 Defective Hardware Trims: Insecure /too tight or loose X X Defective Hardware Trims: Defective Hardware Trims: Insecure /too tight or loose
(button/snaps/rivet/stud) setting for none children's products (button/snaps/rivet/stud) setting for none children's products

6 COMP02 Defective Decoration: Defective Artworks X X Defective Decoration: Defective Artworks


(Printing/EMB/Beading/Sequins/Glitters/Emboss) (Printing/EMB/Beading/Sequins/Glitters/Emboss):
Printing: Wrong, incomplete coverage of color; color stains
Components Embroidery: Unravelling of embroidery threads, pulling, puckering, fraying of
embroidery threads,... adversely affecting appearance
loose attachment of beads/sequins
Raw edges at appliqué.

6 COMP03 Missing Components: Missing X X Missing Components: Missing Trims/Embellishment/Components as Specification


Trims/Embellishment/Components required and approvals

6 COMP04 Other components defects Other components defects than listed that adversely affect appearance

7 TEXT01-1 Natural features: Snags/Slubs Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Natural features: Snags/Slubs. Significant snags and/or slubs distinguishable when
viewed at arm's length , adversely affecting appearance.

7 TEXT01-2 Natural features: Coarse/Single yarn Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Natural features: Coarse/Single yarn. Vertical or horizontal lines permanently knit
or finished into fabric. Visible at arms length
7 TEXT01-3 Natural features: Foreign yarns Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Natural features: Foreign yarns

Textile
7 TEXT01-4 Natural features: Barre Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Natural features: Barre:
Barre appears as a horizontal streak of light or dark bars running the width of the
fabric. The bars must appear in a repetitive pattern to be considered barre. Barre
is typically found parallel to the filling of woven fabric or to the courses of circular
knit fabric.

7 TEXT01-5 Natural features: Poor leather quality (tick bite/fat Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Natural features: Poor leather quality (tick bite/fat wrinkles/cracked/scar).
wrinkles/cracked/scar) Uneven shining/color.
7 Textile TEXT02-1 Fabric defect from machines: Holes (fabric) X X Fabric defect from machines: Holes (fabric). Holes where the yarn is cut, broken
ends, drop stitch that runs
7 TEXT02-2 Fabric defect from machines: Dropped stitches/Loose weaving X X Fabric defect from machines: Dropped stitches/Loose weaving or knitting. Drop
or knitting stitches, missed stitches that appear randomly in the fabric.
7 TEXT02-3 Fabric defect from machines: Needle line/Streaks X X Fabric defect from machines: Needle line/Streaks: Needle lines appear more in
weft knit fabrics, and appear as prominent vertical streaks or lines in the fabric.

7 TEXT02-4 Fabric defect from machines: Mispicks/Broken wrap X X Fabric defect from machines: Mispicks/Broken wrap
7 TEXT03-1 Fabric defect by Processing: Pulling yarn Zone A ≥ 1/4" Zone B > 3" Zone A < 1/4” Zone B ≥ 1/2" ≤ 3" Zone B < 1/2” Fabric defect by Processing: Pulling yarn
7 TEXT03-2 Fabric defect by Processing: Pilling Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone A < 1/2” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Fabric defect by Processing: Conspicuous pilling; not to agreed upon standard.

7 TEXT03-4 Fabric defect by Processing: Conspicuous repairs Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone A < 1/2” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Fabric defect by Processing: Conspicuous repairs
7 TEXT03-6 Fabric defect by Processing: Shearing defects/Off napping Zone A ≥ 1/2" Zone A < 1/2” Zone B ≥ 1/2" Zone B < 1/2” Fabric defect by Processing: Shearing defects for the long plush or fleeces, Off
napping for the short fluff, like velvet, flannel, corduroy.
7 TEXT04 Other textile defects Other textile defects than listed that dversely affect appearance

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