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แนวทางการเลือกใช้ sunscreen 2010
แนวทางการเลือกใช้ sunscreen 2010
81
Infrared (>760 nm), Visible light (400-760 nm), UVA1 (340-400 nm), UVA2 (320-340 nm),
UVB (290-320 nm) 1(1) () UVC ozone
ozone UV
UVA UVB 1(2)()
UV
Photostability UV
82
( 3 )(2)
1.
1.1
1.2
2.
2.1
2.2
2.3
2.4
3.
1. Organic sunscreen (Chemical sunscreen)
carbonyl group ortho para UV
15 UVB
UVA (1)(2)
UVA UVA UVB
3-4
UVA UVB 4()(2)
2. Inorganic sunscreen (Physical sunscreen)
UV
particle visible light UVB UVA
(3) 6
titanium dioxide(TiO2) Zinc oxide (ZnO)
particle (micronized form)
particle particle UV
organic sunscreen UVB (4)
visible light microfine zinc oxide microfine titanium dioxide
3. Tanning sunscreen
dihydroxyacetone (DHA)
3-carbon ketoscreen amine group stratum corneum
UV UV SPF
83
5-13 DHA(5)
6-10 3-7
tanning sunscreen DHA
lotion spray
(Photostability)
Photostability UV
UV
25 UV
()
1.
2 /
1
2
(16,17)
2. 15
organic sunscreen 2
3.
2
4.
84
Algorithm for sunscreens
Non-photosensitivity
- SPF <15
- PA + - +++
- SPF/UVA-PF<3
- SPF > 15
- PA ++ - +++
- SPF/UVA-PF<3
- Water resistant
- 2
photosensitivity
UVA sensitive
UVB sensitive
Physical photoprotection
- SPF>30
- PA+++
- SPF/UVA-PF <3
- Water resistant
85
Visible light
sensitive
- Physical photoprotection
1 (1)
1 (2)
SPF
UVB(%)
Low
Medium
High
Highest
2 - <15
15 - <30
30 - 50
> 50
50-92
93-95
96-97
>98
86
UVB
SPF sun protection factor FDA 2007 sunburn protection
factor SPF
UVB UVA
SPF UVB 15
SPF 30 15x30 =450
= 7.5
2-3
SPF UV
24 UV
SPF = MED of skin with sunscreen
MED of skin without sunscreen
2 mg/cm2
MED = minimal erythematous dose UV
24 UV
87
4 UV (2)
UVB
290-320
Organic absorbers
PABA derivatives
PABA(para-aminobenzoic acid)
Padimate O (octyl dimethl PABA)
Cinnamates
Octinoxate (octylmethoxycinnamate,
Parsol MCX)
Cinoxate
Salicylates
octisalate (octyl salicylate)
Homosalate (homomethyl salicylate)
Trolamine salicylate
Benzophenones
Oxybenzone (benzophenone-3)
Sulisobnzone (benzophenone-4)
Dioxybenzone (benzophenone-5)
Absorption
UVA2
UVA1
320-340
340-400
Visible
400-800
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
Other
Octocrylene
Ensulizole (phenylbenzimidazole-sulfonic acid)
Avobenzone(butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane,
Parsol1789)
Meradimate (menthyl anthranilate)
MexorylTM SX (terephthalylidene dicamphor
Sulfonic acid)
MexorylTM XL (drometrizone trisiloxane)*
Tinosorb M (methylene-bis-benzotriazolyl
tetramethylbutylphenol)*
Tinosorb S (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol
Methoxyphenyl triazine)*
Inorganic blockers
Titanium dioxide**
Zinc oxide**
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
* FDA-approved, ** particle,
XX
X
UV
88
X
X
UVA
UVA
Critical wavelength(6,7), UVA/UVB ratio, Australian standard As/NZS
2604(1993), IPD (immediate pigment darkening)(8), PPD (Persistent pigment darkening)(9,10,11) , UVA
erythema(12), PPF (phototoxic protection factor)(13)
PPD in vivo Japanese Cosmetic Industry
Association (JCIA) UVA 3 5(14)
Critical wavelength, Australian standard As/NZS 2604(1993)
UVA/UVB ratio FDA 2007 UVA
4 (4-star rating system) UVA
6 (6)
PPD
UVA 24 UVA
UVA PF = PPD of skin with sunscreen
PPD of skin without sunscreen
PPD = Persistent pigmentary dose UVA
24 UVA
10 PPD-UVA PF
10 10 x10 = 100
5 UVA JCIA(14)
class
UVA protection factor
(UVA-PF)
PA+
2 - <4
PA++
4-8
PA+++
>8
89
FDA USA 2
Water resistant
20 whirlpool jacuzzi
20 2 20 1 2 SPF
20 100
Very water resistant
80 20
4 180 SPF
(Photostability)
UVA BEMT Bis-Ethylhexy-loxyphenol
Methoxyphenyltriazine (Tinosorb S), DTS Dromethrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), MBBT Methylene BisBenzotrizolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M)
avobenzone (BMDBM, Parsol l789) UVA
UVA1 avobenzone
7
90
7 avobenzone
* FDA (15)
UVB filters
Enzacamene*
Homosalate
Octisalate
Octocrylene
UVA filter
Oxybenzone
Broad-spectrum UVB-UVA filters
Bemotrizinol*
Titanium dioxide (microfine)
Zinc oxide (microfine)
Others
Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate
Diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate
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