Drill Bit

Cadiang, Kathrine Kate F.

Drilling is a cutting process
that uses a drill bit to cut or
enlarge a hole of
circular cross-section in
solid materials.
The bit is pressed against
the workpiece and rotated at
rates from hundreds to
thousands of revolutions per
minute. This forces the
cutting edge against the
workpiece, cutting off chips
(swarf) from the hole as it is
drilled.
What
Drill
Drill bits are cutting tools used to create
cylindrical holes, almost always of circular
cross-section. Drill bits come in many sizes
and have many uses.
Bits are held in a tool called a drill, which
rotates them and provides torque and axial
force to create the hole. Specialized bits are
also available for non-cylindrical-
shaped holes.
There are a wide range of sizes and types of
bits available. Steel ones are usually less
expensive than carbide-tipped bits.

Parts of the Drill bit
Point
Body Shank

Back Taper
Land
Flutes
Body
Clearance
Rake or Helix
Angle
Width of land
Width of
land

Leading edge
of the land
Heel
Point
Body Shank
Drill Bit
Back Taper
The diameter reduces slightly toward
the shank end of the drill, this is known
as back taper
Back taper provides clearance between
the drill and workpiece preventing
friction and heat

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Land

The part of the drill body between the
flutes
The lands provide the drill with much
of its torsional strength
Reducing the land width increases
chip space, but reduces strength
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Helix Angle
Angle formed between a line drawn
parallel to the axis of the drill and the
edge of the land
Helix Angles

Slow Spiral
12 to 22 helix angle, Used in materials producing
broken chips such as brass or bronze, or cast iron
Also used in horizontal applications where the drill
is not rotating


Regular
28 to 32 helix angle, Found on most general purpose
and cobalt drills. Used in a wide variety of drilling
applications


Fast Spiral
34 to 38 helix angle, Used on high helix general
purpose and deep hole parabolic drills. For softer
ferrous and non-ferrous materials producing stringy
chips

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Drill Points
The point is the cone shaped end and it does
the cutting. The point comprises the cutting
elements while the body guides the drill in the
operation. The drill points has four main
features:
Point Angle
Cutting Lips
Lip Relief





Cutting Lips

Cutting edges that extend from the
center of the drill to the outer
diameter

Some specialty and high
performance drills have curved
cutting lips

Lip Relief Angle
Varies with the diameter of
the drill and hardness of the
material
On larger diameters and drills
for harder materials, lip
relief is decreased to as low
as 8
Drills for soft materials and
small diameters have high
relief angles up to 24
Lip relief angles are
measured across the margin
width

<-
Body
It is the portion between the point
and the shank. The body of the drill
has two helical grooves called
flutes. The flutes from the cutting
surface and also assist in removing
chips out of the drilled hole.
<-
The body consists of the following parts:
a. Flutes - Two or more spiral grooves that run
the length of the drill body are called flutes. The
flutes do four thing.
Help from the cutting edge of the drill point.
-Curl the chip tightly for easier removal.
-From channels through which chips can escape
from the hole being drilled.
-Allow the coolant and lubricant to get down to
the cutting edge.

<-
b. Margin- It is the narrow strip
extending back the entire length of
the flute. It is the full diameter of the
drill.
c. Body Clearance- It is the part of
the drill body that has been reduced
in order to cut down friction between
the drill and the wall of the hole.

<-
Shank
It is the portion of the drill by
which it is clamped in the
spindle.

Drill Bit

A very common shank type, a straight shank resembles a brace
shank except its tip is not tapered. Instead, the cylindrical tip
simply inserts into the chuck flush. Round shanks have low
torque transmissions, which can help prevent straight shanks
from drilling very hard materials. Straight shanks also dont
require dedicated chucks, which provides for widespread use.
Minimum of turning or grinding needed if the drill bit is made
from appropriately sized round bar stock
Can be held in a standard drill chuck, which must be tightened
only friction prevents slipping
Can also be held in a collet chuck (which must be tightened),
particularly for smaller sizes
very accurate centering
Torque transmission limited by slipping of cylindrical shank



A brace shank is essentially a multi-sided shank that
tapers to a point and locks into a chuck through the
angular dispensation. Torque tolerances are
reasonable for brace shanks although stripping can
occur, especially if a dedicated chuck is not used.
Easy to make in a forge
Very wide tolerances allowable (not very precise)
Moderate torque transmission but without the slipping
possible with round shanks
Appropriate chuck required

The triangle shank is similar to a hex shank in
that it is angled, but it only has three angles to
the hexs six. It features many of the same
strengths as the hex, including high torque
capabilities and good centering. However, it
cannot attach to quite as many different drill
chucks as the hex.
Can be held in a drill chuck
High torque transmission
Moderately accurate centering
Cannot be held in a collet

The hex shank is named after the hexagonal shape of the shank,
similar to a screwdriver bit. Because of this shape, hex shanks can be
used in both dedicated drill mandrel chucks and screwdriver bit
chucks. The angled shape of the shank enables the bit to handle
higher torque transmissions than brace or straight shanks meaning
they can work with material with higher resistance, such as hard
metals or geological formations. However, the angle can also cause
decentering, leading to less accurate drilling.
Can be held in a drill chuck made for cylindrical shanks
Can be held in a hex screwdriver bit chuck
High torque transmission, limited only by strength
No need to tighten, shape does not allow slipping
Moderately accurate centering
Cannot be held in a regular round collet.

SDS stands for the German expression Steck-Dreh-Sitz, or
Insert-Twist-Stay, although the English acronym stands for
Special Direct System. These shanks are specially designed
with a spring load installation feature that allows a worker to
insert the shank into a chuck by hand. During drilling, the spring
gives under pressure, so the drill can perform hammering or
masonry activity.

The drill bit is not held solidly in the chuck, but can slide back and
forth like a piston; it does not slip during rotation due to the non-
circular shank cross-section, matching the chuck. The hammer of
the drill acts to accelerate only the drill bit itself, and not the large
mass of the chuck, which makes hammer drilling with an SDS
shank drill bit much more productive than with other types of
shank.



The SDS shank has the advantage of fitting into a simple
spring-loaded chuck, so that bits are simply pushed into
the chuck without tightening.

Relatively complex to manufacture
Better hammer drilling performance than rigidly gripped
bits
Drills with a "rotation-stop" mode can use chiselling bits
One-handed quick chucking operation
Can only be held in an SDS chuck
Not very accurate centering
High torque transmission


Standard Sizes
SDS-Plus systems are the most common, since they're adapted for
relatively less-heavy drilling, and their shanks have a diameter from 5 to
30 mm. the grooves in an SDS bit shank allow the bit to slide back and
forth when it is hit by the piston, providing even more potential for the bit
to be accelerated efficiently by the energy of the piston.

SDS Max is designed for even heavier-duty work than SDS-
Plus, and accordingly, the range of SDS Max bit sizes leans
more toward the larger end of masonry drill bits. It allows
for more piston travel, so that when the piston hits the bit, it hits
harder and the bit cuts more efficiently.
SDS-Top has been largely phased out in North America and
is not common except for older tools.
Hilti's TE-S system is similar to these SDS systems, but is
designed for chipping only (no rotation) in tools for applications
larger than could be handled by SDS-Max (i.e. demolition of
concrete walls or floors).

The Morse taper allows the bit to be mounted directly into the
spindle of a drill, lathe tailstock, or (with the use of adapters)
into the spindle of milling machines. It is a self-locking (or self
holding) taper of approximately 5/8" per foot

that allows
the torque to be transferred to the drill bit by the friction
between the taper shank and the socket. The tang at the end
of the taper is only for ejecting the drill bit from the spindle, with
the aid of a drift.
The arbor of a drill chuck is often a Morse taper and this allows
the chuck assembly to be removed and directly replaced with
the shank of a Morse taper drill bit. A range of sleeves may be
used to bring the size of the smaller Morse tapers up to the
size of the drive spindle's larger taper. Sockets are also
available to extend the effective length of the drill as well as
offering a variety of taper combinations.

The detail image shows a Morse taper shank on a 16 mm
diameter drill bit.
Simple to manufacture on a lathe
Cannot be held in a chuck or collet
High torque transmission provided the bit is driven hard into the
workpiece
Very accurate centering

Drill Bit Materials
Many different materials are used for or
on drill bits, depending on the required
application. Many hard materials, such
as carbides, are much more brittle than
steel, and are far more subject to
breaking, particularly if the drill is not
held at a very constant angle to the
workpiece, e.g. when hand-held.

Soft low carbon steel bits are inexpensive, but do not hold
an edge well and require frequent sharpening. They are used
only for drilling wood; even working with hardwoods rather
than softwoods can noticeably shorten their lifespan.

Bits made from high carbon steel are more durable than low-
carbon steel bits due to the properties conferred by hardening
and tempering the material. High carbon steel bits have a
higher temperature tolerance than low carbon steel bits, so
they hold up to wear better and require less frequent
sharpening. If they are overheated (e.g., by frictional heating
while drilling) they lose their temper, resulting in a soft cutting
edge. These bits can be used on wood or metal. They cost
about the same amount as low carbon steel bits and are a
better option for basic drilling.



High speed steel (HSS) is a form of tool steel; HSS bits are
hard, and much more resistant to heat than high carbon steel.
They can be used to drill metal, hardwood, and most other
materials at greater cutting speeds than carbon steel bits.
This allows them to be used at higher drilling speeds, and
insures that the bits maintain their structural integrity longer.
HSS bits can be coated to improve certain features, and their
porous surface holds coatings well.

Cobalt drill bits are extremely hard and are useful in boring
into material too hard for standard high-speed drill bits like
stainless steel and other thicker metal surfaces. Cobalt is less
susceptible to heat damage than any other drill bit type, but it
is also extremely brittle and prone to accidental damage.
Carbide
Carbide tipped drill bits are specialized tips on hardened steel bits.
Carbide tipped drill bits have the ability to dissipate heat rapidly, and
so will hold an edge longer and tolerate heat better than other drill
bit options. Unfortunately, carbide tipped bits are very brittle and will
chip if they are not handled with care. They are appropriate for
drilling hardwood and thin metals.
Diamond Drill Bits
Polycrystalline diamond drill bits, sometimes simply referred to as
PCDs, are made of the hardest drill bit material available on the
market. The bits are made by coating a carbide bit in diamond
particles. Diamond drill bits grind away the surface they are drilling
into, rather than cutting into the surface. They are appropriate for
cutting through a variety of extremely hard surfaces including
granite, ceramic tile, marble, fiberglass, stone, glass, and heavy
metals.


Drill Bit Coatings
Drill bit coatings make the drill bit harder,
more lubricated, sharper, or more heat
resistant than the metal bit is on its own.
Coatings significantly improve the cutting
quality, durability, and lifespan of drill bits.

Black Oxide
Black oxide is the most basic and inexpensive coating. It is
commonly used on high-speed steel bits and provides a
higher level of heat resistance and improved lubrication. It
also protects the bit against water damage, rust, and
corrosion.
Titanium Nitride
A titanium nitride, sometimes called TiN, coating reduces
friction during drilling and increases heat resistance. It is a
very hard ceramic material that can be used to coat a high-
speed steel bit. Coating a drill bit with titanium nitride can
increase the life of the bit up to 5 times. It also allows for
faster drilling speeds. . However, when the bit is sharpened
the new edge will not have the benefits of the coating.


Titanium Aluminum Nitride
Titanium aluminum nitride, sometimes referred to as TiAIN, is
designed to increase the hardness and temperature
resistance of the bit. Bits with a TiAIN coating are heat
resistant up to 800 degrees Celsius, and cling well to a variety
of base bit types.
Zirconium Nitride
Zirconium nitride strengthens brittle drill bit types and
decreases friction. It is an excellent coating for drill bits that
will be used for precision drilling. It is also effective at
reducing the risk of accidental damage on brittle bit types
caused by rough handling and basic wear and tear.



Diamond powder is used
as an abrasive, most
often for cutting tile,
stone, and other very hard
materials. Large amounts
of heat are generated by
friction, and diamond
coated bits often have to
be water cooled to
prevent damage to the bit
or the workpiece.

Specialty Bits
Tungsten Carbide
Tungsten carbide bits are extremely expensive and extremely
brittle. This material is only used to make very fine drill bits.
Typically tungsten carbide drill bits have a diameter of less
than 1 mm. They are useful in small space drilling situations,
and are hard enough to withstand the wear and tear of drilling
through abrasive materials.

Masonry Bit
Masonry bits are made of hard carbon steel but have a
specialized tip made of a harder metal. The tip is typically
welded into the end of the drill bit. These bits are designed to
cut through concrete, brick, and mortar during the masonry
process.


Diamond Core
Diamond core drill bits are used in stone cutting and masonry.
Instead of the traditional point and auger style drill bit, these are
hollow tip drill bits that cut or grind a circle using the outer edge
of the bit. The core drill bit cuts a core or plug from the stone or
glass it is used to cut, so that there are fewer shavings and
potentially harmful shards of material when the drilling project is
complete.

PCB Drill Bit
PCB drill bits are a type of micro-drill bit that has a diameter of 1
mm or smaller. They are designed to bore holes in the electronic
computer boards of most electronic objects. Because they are so
fine, they are commonly made of carbide, which can hold up to
the fiberglass board better than the alternatives.


of
Drill bit

Twist bits

Usually referred to as twist drills, twist bits are probably
the most common drilling tools used by the handyman
with either a hand or electric drill. The front edges cut the
material and the spirals along the length remove the
debris from the hole and tend to keep the bit straight.
General purpose bits for drilling wood, plastic, steel etc.
Twist drills are usually available in sizes 0.8-12 mm plus.
Twist drills have angles suited to drilling steel, but the
cutting angles and geometry are not ideal for most other
materials. Will drill a wide range of materials, but not with
particularly good performance.
The length of a twist drill has much to do with its rigidity -
a shorter bit will be stronger and less likely to wander or
break but may not have the reach needed for all jobs.
Twist drill bits for use in automated machinery have an
actual length specification (e.g. 4-1/2") while most (not
all) twist drills for use in portable drills are graduated
length and use a name to specify the length range:

Jobber Length: These are the most common twist drills and
are a good compromise between length and strength. Jobber
drills vary in length according to their diameter and typically
have a flute length of 9-14 times the cutting diameter, i.e. a
1/2" jobber drill has a flute length of 4-1/2" (nine times the
diameter) with smaller drills having a larger ratio.
Mechanics Length: Shorter than jobber drills, mechanics
length drills are named as such because they fit into tighter
spaces and are less likely to break while still allowing a
reasonable flute length.
Screw Machine Length: Also called "stubby length", these
are the shortest common drill bits. Originally designed for
screw machines, many people prefer these due to their high
strength and added working clearance.

Extra Length: These are extra long drill bits (up to 18")
with flutes extending the entire length of the bit. Extra
length drills can be very fragile and easily broken so it's
usually best to drill as deep as possible with a jobber or
shorter bit before switching to an extra length drill bit.
Aircraft Extension: Similar in length to extra length bits,
aircraft extension drill bits emphasize reach over cutting
depth and have a shorter flute length (about the same as
a jobber drill). This makes the bit much stronger and less
susceptible to bending and breaking.

Masonry Bits
These are steel drills with a piece of Tungsten Carbide welded or
brazed into the tip. These "TCT" (Tungsten Carbide Tipped)
masonry bits are easily recognized as the tip is wider than the
shank. The tip is fairly blunt and cuts by crushing a small area of the
workpiece under the hammer action of the drilling machine. If used
without hammer action the tip wears away quickly.
Masonry bits drill brick, block, stone & mortar. Due to the crushing
rather than cutting action, masonry bits can be entirely blunt but still
function satisfactorily.They are almost entirely ineffective in wood
or metal (due to the lack of a sharp cutting edge), which can be a
problem when trying to drill through masonry abutting timber, such
as joists or wall-plates.
Masonry bits are available in quite long lengths, typically up to 30cm
for non-SDS.

Spur point bit
Also known as a wood or dowel bit, they have a central
point and two raised spurs that help keep the bit drilling
straight. The bit cuts timber very fast when used in a
power drill and leaves a clean sided hole. They are ideal
for drilling holes for dowels as the sides of the holes are
clean and parallel. Sizes range from 3 to 10mm. Spur
point bits should only be used for drilling wood or some
plastics.

Countersink
Countersink bits are used to create a beveled opening at
the top of a pilot hole. It is used in a power or hand drill
to form the conical recess for the heads of countersunk
screws. These bits tend to be designed for use on soft
materials such as timber and plastics, not metals. When
used with a power drill to counter sink an existing hole,
the bit tends to 'chatter', leaving a rough surface. Better
results be will obtained if the countersink bit is used
before the hole is drilled, then take care to ensure that
the hole is in the centre of the countersunk depression.

Tile Bit
A bit for drilling ceramic tiles and glass, it has a ground
tungsten carbide tip. They can be used with a hand drill,
but are best used in a variable speed power drill on a
slow speed. When drilling glass, some form of lubricant
(i.e. turpentine or white spirit ) should be used to keep
the tip cool.
Ceramic tiles can also be drilled using a masonry bit if it
is used at slow speed and without hammer action.

Flat wood bit
Flat bits are low cost low performance drills, and create slightly
rough holes in wood. Their low cost makes them most useful for
large holes, where other bit types become expensive. They are the
easiest of all drill types to make and the cheapest to buy.
Flat bits tend to produce entry surface splintering, make a hole with
rough sides, and make a mess of the exit side. Useful where
neatness of hole is unimportant, and better quality bits are an
unnecessary cost. Sizes range between 8 and 32mm.
Drilling progress is slower than with other types, so flat bits are not
best suited to drilling large numbers of holes, nor to cordless use. To
put it another way, flat bits aren't energy efficient.Its not possible to
use a flat bit to enlarge an already existing hole unless the hole is
first plugged.

Hole saw
Used for cutting large, fixed, diameter holes in wood or plastic. They
will usually cut up to a depth of 18mm - deeper versions are
available. Best used in a power drill at low speed as the blade saws
it's way through the material.
Hole saws typically have a pilot drill bit at their center to keep the
saw teeth from walking. The fact that a hole saw creates the hole
without needing to cut up the core often makes it preferable to twist
drills or spade drills for relatively large holes (especially those larger
than 25 millimetres (1.0 inch)). The same hole can be made faster
and using less power.


Forstner bit
Used to form holes with a flat bottom, such as for kitchen
cupboard hinges. Best used in a power drill held in a drill
stand as there's little in the way of a central point. If used
freehand, the positioning is difficult to control as there is
no central pilot bit. They can work upto the edge of the
wood, and will also drill overlapping holes. They require
considerable pressure to engage in the wood, so are
mostly used with a drill press.

Wood Auger bit
This is ideal when drilling large-diameter, deep holes in
wood or thick man-made boards. Generally an Auger bit
should only be used in a hand brace. The bit will cut a
clean and deep, flat bottomed holes. The single spur
cuts and defines the edge of the hole while the chisel-
like cutting edge removes the waste within the previously
cut circle. The threaded centre bites into the wood and
pulls the bit into the timber. This 'pulling' action means
that the bit is really unsuitable for use in a power drill.