SUB MICRON

COSMECEUTICALS
UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF PRESENTED BY
DR. VIKAS JAIN
SURAJ S
INDUSTRIAL PHARMACY
JSSCP M.PHARM – INDUSTRIAL PHARMACY

JSSCP
COSMECEUTICALS

 Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients

purporting to have medical or drug-like benefits.
 The FD&C Act does not recognize any such category as "cosmeceuticals."A product
can be a drug, a cosmetic, or a combination of both, but the term "cosmeceutical" has
no meaning under the law.
 “A product with an activity that is intended to treat or prevent a (mild) skin
(abnormality)”
– In Europe and Japan, cosmeceuticals can be regarded as a subclass of
cosmetics; however, in the United States cosmeceuticals can only be regarded as
a subclass of drugs.
 The term “cosmeceutical” was introduced by dermatologist Dr Albert Kligman in 1984
and is derived from a combination of the words cosmetic and pharmaceutical.
 Cosmeceuticals are products that have both cosmetic and therapeutic (medical or drug-
like) effects, and are intended to have a beneficial effect on skin health and beauty.
 Like cosmetics, they are applied topically as creams or lotions but contain active
ingredients that have an effect on skin cell function. In some cases, their action is
limited to the skin surface (such as exfoliants), while others can penetrate to deeper
levels, either enhancing or limiting normal skin functions.
 Cosmeceuticals are available “over-the-counter” (without prescription) and are
generally used as part of a regular skin care regime to help improve skin tone and
texture, pigmentation and fine lines.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN COSMETICS &
COSMECEUTICALS
 Cosmeceuticals typically contain levels of active ingredients, phytochemicals,
vitamins etc. Like cosmetics, cosmeceuticals are topically applied, but contain
ingredients that influence the biological function of the skin.

 Cosmeceutical products are intended to improve appearance from a functional

standpoint whereas Cosmetics are used JUST to color and adorn the body in a
stylish fashion, leaving the real problem unaddressed.
SOME COMMON INGREDIENTS IN
COSMECEUTICALS
 Sunscreens (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide)
 Antioxidants (Vitamin C, Alpha-lipoic acid, Nicotinamide)
 Hydroxy acids (improve skin texture and reduce the skin signs of ageing )
 Skin lightening agents (Ascorbic acid , Kojic acid)
 Peptides and proteins

 Vitamins
 Fruit/Herb/Vegetable Extracts
 Essential Oils
 Minerals
CHARACTERIZATION OF
COSMACEUTICALS
 Cosmeceuticals could be characterized as follows: 1- The product has
pharmaceutical activity and can be used on normal or near-normal skin
 The product should have a defined benefit for minor skin disorders (cosmetic
indication).
 As the skin disorder is mild, the product should have a very low-risk profile
CLASSIFICATION OF COSMECEUTICALS

 Photoaging Agents
 Peeling agents(Hydroxyacids)
 Sebum regulators
 Hair Growth Enhancers
 Moisturizers
 Botanical Extracts
 Topical Retinoids
 Depigmentation Agents
PHOTOAGING AGENTS
 Aging and photoaging of the skin are now well-accepted
concepts, aging skin was accepted as an inevitable,
irreversible, and trivial consequence of getting old.

 Photoaging begins at a very early time point, even in infancy, as a

result of repetitive, chronic exposure of the skin to ultraviolet
radiation.
PHOTOAGING PRODUCTS WHICH
ARE POTENTIALLY CLASSIFIED AS
COSMECEUTICALS
I. Moisturizers :
 Simple occlusion of the skin, with a ‘‘moisturizer’’ such as petrolatum, has
definite effects on skin structure and probably on function.
 Older or photodamaged skin is frequently perceived as ‘‘dry,’’ there is substantial
evidence that TEWL is actually decreased in chronologically aged skin.
 Moisturizers and emollients may exert their positive effects in several ways.

 Simple occlusion effects may acutely allow retention of more water in the skin
and acutely lead to lowered TEWL.
 Healing of damaged stratum corneum and replacement of intercellular lipids may
reestablish normal barrier function and allow normalization of TEWL.
II. Retinoids
 Retinoids, with pleotropic biological effects including modulation of epidermal
cell differentiation and sebocyte dedifferentiation. Have been extensively studied
and have, in a way, become the prototypic cosmeceutical by which others are
judged in treatment of photoaging.
 Different retinoid used are
 Isotretinoin has also been adequately documented in double-blind, vehicle
controlled trials to improve the same parameters of photoaging.
 Adapalene has been proven effective in treatment of acne.
 Tazarotene, another recently studied retinoid, has been shown to be effective in
psoriasis and acne will likely be effective in photoaging
 Retinol, the prototypic retinoid, is the
alcohol of retinoic acid and has been
shown to be somewhat active in animal models of photodamage.
III. Hormones and Vitamins
o Hormone and vitamin deficiencies adversely affect the skin and as
many of the skin functions and structures be affected by hormonal
or vitamin treatment.

o Attention focused on the therapeutic use of androgen, thyroid,

or growth hormones topically applied in photoaging.
PEELING AGENTS(HYDROXYACIDS)
– Hydroxyacids are organic carboxylic acids classified into the α- and β-
types (AHA and BHA) according to their molecular structure.
– Both AHAs and BHAs are used worldwide and most probably for
centuries as active dermatological drugs and cosmetic ingredients.
Biological activities of hydroxyacids:

– Both AHAs and BHAs exert indisputable direct effects on the stratum corneum, at
least when it is affected by xerosis, ichthyosis, and analogous conditions.
– Comedonal hyperkeratosis in acne-prone subjects might also be improved by
the same compounds.
– In the field of tumors, benign keratoses and viral warts may also be affected
by high-concentration formulations.
– The efficacy is largely related to the pH-related chemical burn. Such caustic
effect is also induced in order to realize AHA skin peeling.
– Salicylic acid is the reference BHA used since the early days of dermatology to
improve xerotic conditions.
Caustic effects:

– When applied to the skin in high concentration, AHAs cause necrosis

and detachment of keratinocytes leading to epidermolysis .
– Such injury is a chemical peeling depending primarily upon the
disruption of the skin pH.
SEBUM REGULATORS
– Sebaceous glands are generally associated with hair follicles.
– Human sebum from isolated sebaceous glands consists mainly of
squalene, waxes, esters, and triglycerides with small proportions of
cholesterol and cholesterol esters.
– 7-dehydrocholesterol secreted from the sebaceous glands onto
the skin surface is photochemically converted to pre vitamin D,
which is then converted to vitamin D in a temperature-dependent,
non enzymatic reaction.
– Sebum no doubt contributes a degree of lubrication to the skin
surface, and it has sometimes been suggested that dry skin
results from insufficient sebum production.
 SEBUM and ACNE
 There is a clear, positive correlation between the occurrence and
severity of acne and the sebum secretion rate.
 It has been suggested that the development of acne may result
from essential fatty acid deficiency localized to the follicular
epithelium.
 Reduction of the sebum secretion rate is therapeutic for acne.
 This can be achieved by oral administration of retinoids,
estrogen, or antiandrogens.
HAIR GROWTH ENHANCERS

– Minoxidil topical solution 2%, became the first clinically proved,

safe, and effective hair-growth stimulant after it was discovered that
its active ingredient (minoxidil) caused hypertrichosis when taken
orally for hypertension.
– The 2% concentration of minoxidil topical solution became available
in 1986 for men and in 1991 for women.
– Finasteride was recently introduced into several countries
including the united states as a prescription product for males only.
MOISTURIZERS
– Dry and chapped skin is a very common problem both in healthy
individuals and in patients with skin diseases.
– Dry skin might be connected to some inherited disorders relating to
the structure and function of the epidermis.
– Moisturizers are expected to increase skin hydration and to modify
the physical and chemical nature of the surface to one that is
smooth, soft, and pliable.
– Smoothing of the surface can be observed immediately after
application of a moisturizer as a result of the filling of spaces
between partially desquamated skin flakes