Defects library (Cut to Pack)

Prepared By
Sajid Rehman
Cutting
 Defect type Root cause Corrective action

While cutting not follow grain

Make sure and completely
line according to the sample and
check every part of the
pattern.
pattern according to the
sample.

parts Over Lapping

Make sure to avoid this
types of errors all parts
It caused by the department of
should be align and should
carelessness
not be overlapped to each
other

Make sure during pattern

It caused by the department of
making all notches should
carelessness
be placed as per
requirement
 Inside paper roll should be with cap,
Improper stacking,
over stacking should not be allowed,
missing cap of inside
roll position should be according to
paper roll.
given picture

Range bowing, bulging

Spreading adjustment should also be

Improper stick Improper stick apply on
proper while spreading the range stick
range.
should be properly done
Shade variation
in fabric to fabric It causes due to cutting
It can be controlled by serial wise
numbering not in
In same shade sequence on cut parts
cutting numbering on cut parts
number

Uneven cutting panel /

shape out

It can be controlled by providing proper

Improper cutter handling
guidelines of cutting handling
 Put full concentration
It happens due to carelessness while cutting and follow
Excess cut cut line mark.

Misalign maker line

It happens due to plotter printing Before spreading the
and cutter handling marker must check it
printing.

During stitching the panels

must check panel
Discolor numbering or when you
Numbering or re-cutting issue.
required any panel re-
cutting must check shade
number.
 Panel and parts uneven

It causes due to improper cutter Provide proper guidelines

handling while cutting

It can be controlled through

Wrong Size Numbering sticker It causes due to carelessness proper care while
numbering
Printing
 Defect type Root cause Corrective action

Due to wrong direction of Screen should be aligned and as

print screen or misaligned per given standard, or specimen.
specimen.

Slanted print

After printing do proper curing

Due to Improper curing after
before send to washing to make it
printing process.
permanent.
Dull print

Missing word in print

Must check screen wording before
Its cause is blocked screen
printing all words should be
word or missing word during
according to buyer’s standard.
design making.
Broken print
We should first apply jell
Due to direct print in the print with changed
method

Pucker in print
Due to printed layer curing the
fabric Shrinkage mismatch with
upper layer.
Need to cured both fabric
layer on same place to
avoid puckering or bubbles
at print area.
Embroidery
 Defect type Root cause Corrective action

Upper side loose stitches Due to Upper thread

Tension loose

Need to adjust the

machine thread tension
from upper side

Loose emb inside area

Due to missing upper
tension thread with Need to adjust the bobbin
loose bobbin thread
 Defect type Root cause Corrective action

Machine breakage Need to adjust machine

Bobbin thread out from mechanically
Inner side guff stitches head / Or tension is not
correct

This Problem occurred Replacement of against this

due to needle breakage / type of pkt
Position out at pocket embroidery When we change the
needle then machine
efficiency become slow
 Defect type
Root cause Corrective action

Broken Embroidery Stitch

Need to adjust by
Due to thread broken
mechanically machine or
while emb or bad
used the best quality of
Thread quality or
thread and need to
bobbin thread finished
change bobbin as well
Defect type
Root cause Corrective action

Due to missing upper Need to adjust the

Slanted emb. tension thread machine tension

Due to missing upper Need to adjust the

tension thread machine thread tension
from upper side

Missing emb
 Defect type Root cause Corrective action
/ defect picture Its root cause

Uneven grinding process This Problem face over size

Grinding Should be as per
given marking pattern /
grinding .
Counter Sample
 Defect type Corrective action
Root cause

GMT

Wrong thread apply Need to follow approved Must be follow Counter

counter Sample / Trim sheet / Sample / Trim sheet /
Counter Sample Artwork Artwork
 Defect type Root cause Corrective action
/ defect picture Its root cause

Loose patch using on machine

Due to machine Vibration

Need to adjust machine
fault patch become loose
Counter Sample before starting.
attached
 Defect type Root cause Corrective action
/ defect picture Its root cause
Wrong pattern issue

Wrong Pattern

Correct Pattern Need adjustment in pattern

as per Counter Sample
Due to used wrong pattern
before start bulk production
to avoid broken stitch.
 Defect type
Root cause Corrective action
/ defect picture

Due to missing upper

Need to adjust upper
tension thread
machine tension.
Missing sequence
Sewing
 Defect type Root cause Corrective action

Broken stitch
The sewing tension in the
Bent needle used, incorrect
needle should be proper
timing of needle to enter loop.
adjust, perfect needle size
Incorrect sewing tension in the
for the thread size and
needle, incorrect needle size for
adjust correct timing of
thread size or used bad quality
needle at enter loop and
thread.
need to change thread.
Skip stitch

Educate the operator that

During thread cutting or they do not stitched loose
Broken stitch mishandling threads while sewing, also
careful while thread
trimming.

should be leave maximum

due to trimmed hanging thread
1 cm hanging thread in
from end of the side seam after
Broken over lock over lock operation’s to
overlock
avoid it.
Loose stitch
Lopper thread tension is
lopper adjustment problem
too loose need to increase
the tension numbers

Bobbin thread tension is

Bobbin thread tension problem too tight need to increase
the tension numbers
Loose stitch
 poor joint
stitches due to joint stitch should be come each to other
multiple revers stitch with 2 or 3 stitches overlap
Poor reverse stitches stitches

Oil Stain Due to leakages in Need to check lubrication system and machine
machine should be neat and clean

Make sure the sewing machine knife and

frayed The edge of the cutting knife are sharpened and changed often ,
seam is extremely the knife’s should be adjusted properly in
frayed or rolls relationship to the stitch tongue on the needle
inside the stitch plate to obtain the proper seam width or width
bite also need to increase SPI.
 Need to adjust SPI by SPI regulator and
Uneven SPI It is occurred due to use roller to make even SPI at the heavy
machine operations, also make sure to adjust
mechanically.

Make sure you are using the correct

capacity of folders and guides for the fabric
Puckering being sewn. Observe operator handling for
proper fabric movement to and through the
Tension Puckering
machine. Make sure the pieces are cut
(extreme Thread
properly in the cutting room and the proper
Tension) Machine
seam tolerances have been maintained so
Puckering (Uneven
the pieces are of equal length before
ply feeding)
seaming. If the plies have different stretch
Puckering
characteristics, position the ply with the
greatest amount of stretch are against the
feed if possible.

It is happening during fusing
attachment or improper folder
Pleat
Educate the employee while
attaching the fusing that waist
band should be lying without
any crease, and use correct
folder according to the cut size.

•Regularly needle change with

proper records for selected
Needle cuts or hole Blunt needle using,
operations
Un suitable needle size using
for seams. •In Pre Production meeting
Threads size not matches
decide operations wise needle
with the fabric.
size by mechanic head
Pressure foot with sharp
edges. •Pressure foot and feed dog need
Feed dog with sharp edges.
to regular check
Feed dog not match with
fabric. Light feed dog / •As per the fabric mechanics
Heavy feed dog. Throat plate
need to change the feed dog as
size and needle size
well as pressure foot
Needle cuts or hole Operator every time seam
stitch removes and re - stitch
•Need to educate operators not to
remove and re stitch high
percentage of garments
 Skip stitch

Bent needle used, incorrect

timing of needle to enter The sewing tension in the needle
loop. Incorrect sewing should be proper, perfect needle
tension in the needle, size for the thread size and
incorrect needle size for adjust correct timing of needle at
thread size, improper pattern enter loop. Use correct pattern.
program feeding.

Broken stitch

skip / broken stitch of bar Bent needle used, incorrect

The sewing tension in the needle
tack timing of needle to hook.
should be preper,perfect needle
Incorrect sewing tension in
size for the thread size and adjust
the needle, incorrect needle
correct timing of needle at hook.
size for thread size.

Need to adjust bobbin tension for
bunches or knot.
Bunches of thread
Poor joint is occurred due to lose
Bunches of thread tension in bobbin thread
Misalign joints
It can be happened due to operator
handling or wrong feeding.
Bobbin should be drop
about an inch and half
before stopping.
Need to adjust bobbin
thread tension
Educate the operator for
correct handling and use
needle feed for correct
joint.

Open seam allowance/or less It is happened due to operator
seam allowance handling and improper
adjustment in folders.
Usually caused by poor operator
handling
Drop stitch/slip
stitch
Usually caused by poor operator
handling
Wavy stitch
Trained the operator to
keep even plies while
attaching cut pieces and
need to check the folder
allowance to avoid frayed
in after wash garments.
Instruct the sewing
operator to make sure for
correct stitch
Instruct the sewing
operator to make sure for
correct stitch

Due to side seam and inseam
seam joints are not meeting with
Roping each other from both sides.
Pocket lining expose
It is occurred by operator handling
Uneven guider stitch
Because of operator handling
Give the awareness to
sewing operator to match
joints from both side of
seams and use needle feed
to avoid it.
Teach the sewing operator
to make correct method to
do it and we can use CR top
stitch to avoid it.
Teach the operator to
follow guider to make even
distance between both sides
of the stitches
 Drop stitch

Trained the operator to

Because of operator handling control sewing machine
that where they should
stop.

Uncompleted stitch

Educate the sewing

Insecure stitch operator there should be
Not done reverse stitch by operator
done reverse stitches (2 or 3
stitches )

Educate the operator they

Caused by poor operator
must follow marking and
handling and they are not follow
make sure they attach
marking
straight loop while bar
Slanted loop tacking.
Misalign bar tack Trained the operator to
It is occurred by operator follow correct placement
handling or presser foot pressure of the bar tack and also
check presser foot
pressure and maintenance
Slip bar tack

Wrong size pairing

Give proper awareness to
checker that they must
follow cutting
At the time of pairing by line
numbering( serial number,
checker
bundle number, shade
number, and size, inseam)
while paring.
 Trained the operator to
follow marking or notches
while sewing and make
Due to notches /marking out by sure for proper handling
poor operator handling and can and the pieces are cut
be happened by fabric mill or properly in the cutting
Twisted leg uneven panel cut in cutting room. room also instruct to
cutting room that they do
not cut twisting/skewing
rolls

uneven top stitching edge

Need to check presser foot

Due to presser foot alignment and
machine maintenance and
pressure or poor handling of the
make sure proper operator
operator.
handling as well.
 Need to add a proper
Poor operator handling
marking to make correct
Fly Shape out fly shape according to
required .

Extra allowance
Cutter must cut this part
according to given pattern
shape.
facing not cut in proper shape
Also flat lock machine
operator must follow the
edge of the part to avid it.

Due to embroidery placement not
Un-even Allowance
follow
Side top HI-Low
The sewing operator is not
following marking
Need to give proper(even)
allowance for pressing in
pattern, also keep
embroidery placement
according to art work.
Educate the operator that
they must follow marking
to avoid it.
puckering at side seam
due to uneven panel
attached
Uneven width of bottom
opening
Hiking / uneven bottom
hem
wavy bottom hem
Make sure the pieces are
cut properly in the cutting
These all problems are just
room and the sewing
because of uneven panels by
operator must follow all
operator handling / and excess
the marking and seam
allowance trimmed during safety
allowance accordingly to
over lock or can be cutting issue
avoid them and also
as well
Observe operator
handling for proper fabric
movement.
 Instructed to sewing
operator that they must
follow marking and
Up and down pockets The reason is behind it improper
balancing should be even
follow marking at the operator
while making back yoke
end.
and waist band
attachment as well to
avoid it.

Uneven front pocket Instructed to sewing

opening operator that they must
The reason is behind it improper follow marking and
follow marking at the operator balancing should be even
ssend while making back yoke
and waist band attachment
as well to avoid it

The all cutting stickers

placement should be at the
Cutting stickers Wrong placement of the sticker in center of cut pieces in the
stitched marker and operator carelessness as marker to avoid it and make
well sure in sewing that they
should not stitched under
stitches
 Operator must follow
Slanted back waist band 5 marking and
rise The reason for it operator , while making back rise
handling, fabric behavior uneven handling should be
cut pieces. proper, there should be
apply run stitch at the
raw body to avoid it.

inner part visible out side Belt point and back

pocket inner part will be
kept inside by proper
Poor handling of sewing operator
handling control to avoid
it

Fly shape kept slightly

Center front not straight curve with excess
Shrinkage problem
allowance in patron and
stitch accordingly
 Trained to sewing
Seam joint out at crotch operator that while
Poor handling of sewing operator
inseam making operator
joints should be matched
each to other.

Joints are not allowed if

Joint stitch any case of enter loop
thread is finished so please
It is occurred by operator handling 1st remove all stitch then re-
stitch and with the same
stitch ( Lock stitch or chain
stitch)

Make sure in cutting room

Reverse fabric at the time of laying range
It can be occurred in cutting room that small cut pieces should
or operator end. be on right direction and
also be care full in sewing
room while process.
 educate to operator while
zipper fly attachment that
Inner fabric visible from they should stop stitch
Need to do correct method while
front rise before finishing (1cm)and
zipper fly attachment.
also need to improve
handling at the time of top
stitch of crotch

Zipper should be attached

slightly slant in before
Due to straight stitch apply while wash garment in order to
zipper attached avoid outside zipper
visibility and standing
slider
Short over lapping /zipper
visible outside and zipper
slider in standing position
 Belt point upper part (Fly
Side) must be kept
smaller (3mm) than lower
part because after making
Cross belt Need to correct handling method
its eyelet both parts will
points for belt point.
be parallel and belt point
edge will be kept slightly
slant based on fabric
stretch ability to avoid it.

folding up waist
band point edge. At the time of Eyelet
making there should be
gap 8mm from belt point
It can be controlled to do correct edge instead of 11 to 12
placement of the button hole. mm so that belt point
become straight in after
wash.
Wrong color thread used
lack of coordination /
irresponsibility
Uneven loop length
Poor handling of bar tack operator.
All threads should be
apply according to given
buyer’s thread code
number for this must
follow trim card or
analyses sheet.
Trained the bar tack
operator for proper
handling and make sure all
loops attached on loop
attacher machine
 It can be controlled
It causes due to carelessness through proper care while
stitching and pairing.

Wrong labels
Washing
 Defect type Rot cause
Approved
Shade Band 1) Shade variation in before
wash.
2) Lot to lot variation.
Out shade
1) It could be scrapping
variation.
2) Used wrong solution
percentage in spray process
3) Wrong Scarping paper
(number of paper used)
Less or heavy scraping
Corrective action
1) Shade variation must
be controlled in before
wash.
2) 100% checked on
shading table before
delivering the goods in
finishing.
3) Process control must
be there.
1) Scrapping operator
must be trained.
2) Spray operator s/b
trained.
3) Spray s/b as per given
std.
4) Right %age of solution
used while spray.

1) P/whisker operator
negligence.
2) Wrong emery paper used.
3) Un even spray intensity
Less or heavy chevron
1) Intensity or %age of resin not
Less / Heavy bubble used properly.
whickers 2) Heat or curing process not
worked as per requirement.
3) Temperature and timing not
maintained properly
1) Whisker operator
must be trained and
skilled.
2) Must follow the given
standard.
3) Designated emery
paper used.
1) Resin %age must be
use as per defined
parameters.
2) Operator must be
skilled.
3) Proper heat and
temperature given to
the garment after resin
application.

Less or heavy Distress/Distortion
1) New or un skilled
1) Operator must be skilled
operator.
and well experienced.
2) Improper Airing.
2) Follow given counter for
3) Lack in awareness about
intensity and shape
intensity

1) Garments must be dry right

after the hydro.
1) Before wash press or
2) After Resin process
folding
garments should directly
2) After hydro garment dry
send to oven process with
in open air
Cracking minimum air exposure.
3) Avoids crease mark or
folding in before wash.

1) Garment should be flat on

Folding /Patches ballooning.
1) Operator is unskilled.
2) We have to be very
2) Improper airing during
conscious about required air
mannequin process
pressure and instruct line QC
as well.
 1) Zipper should be as best
Zipper stain 1) Zipper is sub standard.
in quality.
2) Zipper is not closed during
2) Zipper must closed
process.
before wet process.
3) Cb6 chemical not added in
3) Cb6 chemical must be
washing
added in wet process.

1) Handling must be
controlled wisely.
1) Operators negligence and 2) We have to provide
Broken stitches handling issues. awareness about whisker
area, put sizing wise
pattern and use soft pad
during process.

1) Cropping must be done in

before wash.
Thread Mark 1) Loose thread in before wash.
2) Each and every garment
2) Uncut thread in before wash.
must be passed from
thread sucker machine.
 1) Use refine stones
1) Heavy stoning and
2) Fabric knot must be
unrefined stone
checked and resort before
2) Fabric knot
cutting after stoning
Damage/ floating process it is damaged and
open.

1) During Legger process area

Gum stain and machine must be clean.
2) We have to be very
1) Careless handling issue conscious during patch
attachment and resin
3) Avoid mishandling.
4) Operator must be skilled and
experienced.
 We have to bind it
‘Improper binding/loose
properly as per
binding’
requirement.
Less/heavy
binding effect

Back staining Use same quality pocket

Low quality of pocket lining Or Use lining as same as GSS.
tint for base color matching Control shade variation in
garment and avoid tint.
 We have to remove
these kinds of stickers
Mostly stitching doesn't remove
during mannequin
numbering stickers.
process Or inform to
Numbering stickers concern at initial stage
marks

We have to be very
conscious about required
Folding air pressure and instruct
marks ‘Improper Airing during mannequin line QC as well.
process’
 ‘Awareness’
We have to provide
1) This issue comes due to
proper awareness about
lacking of awareness about the
the required intensity to
required intensity.
quality checker as well
2) Improper pattern shape
as operator.

High & low whiskers

We have to remove
pattern edges before
using it.
This issue comes due to sharp edges
of pattern.

Whisker cut
marks
 Pocket
lining We have to take out
pocket lining before
marks scrapping.
This issue comes due to pocket
lining.

We have to put garment

on pattern properly
before pattern whisker.
This issue comes due to D button
tack extra seam allowance.

Seam allowance
mark
Pp spray folding
We have to be very
conscious about
required air pressure
and instruct line QC as
well.
‘Improper Airing during
mannequin process’

Pp Spots
We have to wipe pp spot
from mannequin timely.

This issue comes due to PP spots on

mannequin.
Up & down
whiskers

This problem comes due to non- Use appropriate patterns to

parallel sizes in patterns fit

Pattern Pattern
Size:40/42 Size:38/40

Lycra broken
This problem arises due to the
pressure of bar tack and the use
of old needles, due to excessive
stress or high levels of heat in
ballooning .
The use of ball point needle
and change it twice a day, or
bar tack should be done in
after washing clothes as per
fabric behavior and keep
proper pressure and proper
temperature in ballooning.
Finishing
 Defect type Root cause Corrective action

Insecure button
Always use lock stitch
Machine adjustment issue.
machine to attach button to
And due to chain stitch.
secure it.

Always use original die to

attach button and make
sure it should be sustain on
Mold/ die problem
90 nuton.
Button Pulled up Also keep check on hourly
basis.

Always use original die to

attach button and make
sure it should be sustain on
Mold/ die problem
90 nuton.
Damage Button Also keep check on hourly
basis.
 Always use original die to
attach button,
Based on fabric
Mold/ die problem strachbility if required
open fabric from shank wisher so we can add.
button Also keep check on hourly
basis.

Button position out

It can be controlled through
proper care while attaching
It causes due to carelessness button.
If required, add a marking
to attach this.

Always use original die to

attach button,
Mold/ die problem
Also keep check on hourly
Sharp nail (edges) basis.
 It can be controlled
It causes due to carelessness through proper care while
Pocket lining fold during attaching Rivet.
rivet attachment

Missing wording
of It can be controlled through
proper care while attaching
rivet It causes due to carelessness Rivet.

Also keep check on hourly

basis.

Zipper should be proper

close / belt point tagging
It causes due to carelessness
must placed when send to
Broken zipper teeth wash to avoid zipper teeth
while blowing process.
 It can be controlled
through proper care while
It causes due to carelessness
attaching patch.
reverse leather patch

unbalance L/P stitch

It can be controlled through
It causes due to carelessness proper care while attaching
patch.

Use Teflon pad while iron

Ironing issue. the garment, and avoid full
press on sensitive fabrics.
Iron mark
 Need to set proper heat
and time according to
Improper heat
requirement to avoid
Insecure thermo label
insecure labels.

After printing do proper

Improper curing after printing. curing before send to
unreadable printing washing.

Pen Marking It causes due to carelessness

Avoid pen usage o
production floor and while
inspect the garment.
 Unreadable barcode sticker

improper pasting of It can be controlled

barcode sticker It causes due to carelessness through proper care while
pasting barcode stickers
and carton packing.

Two different
country tag
packed in
same CTN
Wrong size packed

It can be controlled
It causes due to carelessness
through proper care while
packing.
Wrong size card
Thanks