Learning outcomes of this week

The students will be able to:

 

Describe the system of yarn numbering

Illustrate the inter-conversion of numbering system
Define draft
Illustrate the types of draft
Describe the methods of drafting
Yarn Number
The number which shows the fineness or coarseness of yarn is called yarn
number.

There are two systems of yarn numbering.

i. Direct system
ii. Indirect system

In direct system, yarn number is called the linear density of yarn with units of tex,
denier and dtex, etc.

While, in the indirect system, yarn number is called the yarn count with units of
Nec, Nm and N woolen, etc.
Indirect system

It is used for the measurement of length per unit weight of the

yarn. In this system, weight is kept constant while length is
variable.

In the indirect system, yarn thickness and yarn number are

inversely proportional. This means that as the yarn count increases
the yarn weight decreases and hence yarn becomes finer.

The indirect system is also known as English system of counting.

The most commonly used indirect numbering systems are

1. English Cotton Nec = No of hanks / lbs

2. Metric system Nm = Km / Kg

3. Worsted N = No of hanks / lbs

Different hank lengths for natural fibers

Nature of Fiber Hank Length

Cotton 840 yards
Spun silk 840 yards
Wool 256 yards
Worsted 560 yards
Linen 300 yards
Jute 14400 yards
Direct system

It is used for the measurement of linear density that is the weight

per unit length of yarn.

In this system yarn length is kept constant and weight is variable.

Linear density = mass / length

In the direct system, yarn thickness and yarn number are directly
proportional.
The most widely used indirect numbering systems are

1. Tex (Tex = No. of grams / 1000 m)

2. Grex (Grex = No. of grams / 10,000 m)

3. Denier (Denier = No. of grams / 9000 m)

Inter-conversion of yarn numbers

Tex=0.1 dTex=0.111 Denier=70.86gr/y=µg/inch=1000 =590.54

25.4 Nm Nec
Inter-conversion of yarn numbers
Calculate the yarn number in Nec if length of yarn is
15000 yards and weight of yarn is 1.5 pounds. Further,
convert Nec to Tex.