Garment QA Concepts

Quality Assurance Lecture:
Garment QA Concept
 August 2017
24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 1

I. Introduction
What is Quality?
Customer Satisfactions (Dr Ishikawa - founder of fishbone
quality system)
http://www.indonesiaqualitylinks.co.cc
Quality Assurance Concept
Quality assurance, or QA for short, is the systematic monitoring and evaluation
of the various aspects of a project, service or facility to maximize the probability
that minimum standards of quality are being attained by the production
process.
The goals of Quality Assurance implementation is focusing on prevention

system to achieve “Zero Defects” with “Zero Variation” of quality, manages
quality and delivery through controlling whole product Process.

Two Principles of QA
1. Fit for purpose, the product should be suitable for
the intended purpose

Two Principles of QA
2. Right first time, mistakes should be eliminated
No
Material
Received from
Inspect Material
Supplier for Defects Defects
found?
Yes
Can
Canbebeused
usedtoto
find Return to
findquality
quality Supplier for
problems
problems Credit

Garment Quality Assurance Return to
Supplier for
Flow Chart es Credit
Y
Incoming Fabric / Defects Cutting
Trims Panel
Material found? Process Inspect
Inspect
No
Ye
s
Defects
Export
found?
No Washing
No
Defects Process
Printing
found? Embroidery
Yes
Final Finishing / Defects In Line Sewing

Inspect Packaging found? Inspect Process
No
Yes
QA Organization Structure
BOARD
BOARD of
of DIRECTOR
DIRECTOR
GENERAL
GENERAL MANAGER
MANAGER
IE
IE MANAGER
MANAGER QA
QA MANAGER
MANAGER
MARKETING
MARKETING DEPT
DEPT PRODUCTION
PRODUCTION DEPT
DEPT GA
GA &
& FINANCE
FINANCE DEPT
DEPT
MERCHANDISING
MERCHANDISING CUTTING
CUTTING WAREHOUSE
WAREHOUSE
HRD
HRD
EXIM
EXIM STAFF
STAFF DISTRIBUSI
DISTRIBUSI &
& ACC
ACC
SECURITY
SECURITY
SUB-CONT
SUB-CONT STAFF
STAFF SEWING
SEWING
DRIVER
DRIVER
FINISHED
FINISHED STORAGE
STORAGE FINISHING
FINISHING
HOUSE
HOUSE KEEPING
KEEPING
ACCOUNTING
ACCOUNTING &
& FINANCE
FINANCE

Quality Assurance VS Quality Control
Quality assurance attempts

to improve and stabilize Quality control, emphasizes
production, and associated testing of products to
processes, to avoid, or at uncover products which do
least to minimize, issues that not meet specifications (i.e.,
led to the products which do do not meet the minimum
not meet the metrics in the level of quality).
first place.

QA Activities
Original
Salesman Size Set
Sample Proto Approval
Development Sample
Sample (Fit) PPS Sample
(SMS) Sample
Sample
QA
PPM by
GARMENT TECHNICIAN
QC
(TECHNICAL)
QC Activities
Relaxing
Spreading
Embro
Incoming Cutting Sewing Washing Finishing Packing Export
or Printing
Bundling
Numbering
Embro
Fabric & Pre Final
Cutting or In-Line Washing Finishing
Material Final
Inspection Printing End Line Inspection Inspection
Inspection Inspection
Insp Finishing
QC
II. Garment Manufacturing Process
 Fabric receive
– Garment factories receive fabric from
overseas/local textile manufacturers in
large bolts with cardboard or plastic
center tubes or in piles or bags.
– The fabric typically arrives in steel

commercial shipping containers and is
unloaded with a forklift.
– Garment factories often have a

warehouse or dedicated area to store
fabric between arrival and
manufacturing.

Garment Manufacturing Process
 Fabric receive
 Fabric relaxing
– “Relaxing” refers to the process that allows

material to relax.
– This step is necessary because the material

is continually under tension throughout the
various stages of the textile manufacturing
process, including weaving, dyeing, and
other finishing processes.
– The relaxing process allows fabrics to shrink

so that further shrinkage during customer
use is minimized.

 Fabric receive
 Fabric relaxing
 Spreading & cutting
– After fabric has been relaxed, it is

transferred to the spreading and cutting area
of the garment manufacturing facility.

 Fabric receive
 Fabric relaxing
 Embroidery & screen print
– Embroidery and screen printing are two

processes that occur only if directly
specified by the customer.
– Customers may request embroidery to put

logos or other embellishments on
garments.
– Screen printing is the process of applying

paint-based graphics to fabric using
presses and textile dryers.

 Fabric receive
 Fabric relaxing
 Sewing
– Garments are sewn in an assembly line,

with the garment becoming more
complete as it progresses down the sewing
line.

 Fabric receive
 Fabric relaxing
 Sewing
 Spot cleaning & laundry
– spots on the garment that may have

occurred during the cutting and sewing
processes.
– Some customers request that a garment
be fully laundered after it is sewn and
assembled
– Some facilities also have the capability to
perform special treatments, such as stone-
or acid-washing.

 Fabric receive
 Fabric relaxing
 Sewing
 Ironing
– In most facilities, the ironing platforms are

equipped with a ventilation system that
draws steam through the ironing table and
exhausts it outside the factory.

 Fabric receive
 Fabric relaxing
 Sewing
 Ironing
 Packaging
– In the last steps of making a product retail-

ready, garments are folded, tagged, sized,
and packaged according to customer
specifications.

III. Fabric Inspection
Performed within 7 days of shipment receipt and quality issues
should be resolved in a timely manner.
Inspect at least 10% of total rolls (including all colors & dye lots).
Evaluation is based on the points count system. If failed, the next
inspection is 20%. If still failed, then 100% inspection will be
conducted under supplier cost (Average allowance is around 25
points)
Picture 2: fabric inspection machine

Fabric Inspection … Continue …
 Equipment
 Inspection frame : The frame should be equipped with a variable speed drive, a
yard (or meter) counter, an undercarriage light to see through the construction
and an overhead light to inspect the face of the fabric.
 Inspection speed : The frame should be capable of running up to 30 yards per

minute and should have both forward and reverse control.
 Viewing Distance : The inspection should be performed from an observation

distance of 2 to 4 feet(60 to 120 centimeters) so as to get full vision of the fabric
width
 Lighting : overhead cool white florescent (CWF) lighting is recommended for the
inspection. The surface illumination level should be a minimum of 1075 lux (100
foot candles).

 Light Box
Each factory should have an International light box equipped with:
Light Source Light Type

D 65 (6500K) Average
Primary Light Source
North Sky Daylight
Secondary Light Source CWF (4150K)
Tertiary Light Source A (2856 K) Tungsten
Suggested Lightbox Maker(Brand) Suggested Bulb Specification
 Vervide CAC  D65=GE6500K(made by GE )

 MacBeth JudgeⅡ  TL84=TL80-F40T8/TL841(made by
 Datacolor TruVue Phillips
 Color Room
– Light box must be in a closed
conditioned room with no
interference from outside light.
– The walls of the room should be

painted neutral gray.
Picture 3: color room

 Shipment Information
Perform the materials inspection within 7
days of shipment receipt, and verify shipment
information of followings.
Shipment information
 Item Number/ Dye Shade Number
 Width
 Linear Yards
 Vendor Inspection Report
 Spectrophotometer Color Reading (if
available)
 Physical Test Report
 Other Information as needed Picture 4: shipment Invoice
Discrepancies should be noted on the
inspection report.

 Inspection Preparation
– Fabric Reference sample :
The factory should receive a fabric
reference sample from the vendor
for each item and color ordered.
This sample should be used by the
factory for color, hand, and
appearance verification.
– Tools
Measuring Tape
Scissors
Defect Stickers/ Tag
Selvedge Defect Flags
Inspection Forms
Picture 5: fabric inspection tools

 Verification for Color & Aesthetics
 Cut a head-end sample across the
width of the fabric
 Preferably about 2 yards inside one

of the selected rolls.
 This sample will be used for color

and aesthetic verification.
Picture 6: fabric inspection process

 Color Verification
– Check the head-end sample in the light
box against the fabric reference sample
under both D65 and TL84 light source.
– This should be done once for each

color inspected.
Picture 7: color verification

 Aesthetics Verification
– Inspect overall hand and appearance
against the fabric reference sample
for cleanliness, texture, drape
recovery , resilience, wrinkling, etc.
– If the color and/or the aesthetics do

not match the sample, record the
discrepancy and contact the vendor
for resolution. The factory should
continue with the visual inspection for
the recording of defects.
– The factory will determine how the

shipment can best meet their Picture 8: aesthetics verification
production needs without causing
quality problems in the finished
product.

 Shading within roll
– Check for shading at the beginning, in the middle and at the end of each roll
inspected, using the head-end sample for comparison.
 Side to center
 Side to side or end to end
A B C D
Width
A B C D

 Color Shade Band (color continuity card)
– Check for color consistency between
the rolls.
– Cut a small sample (about 2x2 inch)

from left side, the center and the
right side of each inspected roll and
attach to the color continuity card.
– Check the samples against the fabric

reference sample.
– Note any significant variation of

shade from roll to roll.
Picture 9: fabric swatch card

 Visual Inspection
– Fabric width
 Measure the cuttable width at the
beginning, in the middle, and at the end
of every roll.
 At this point, the inspector should also
check the condition of the selvedges.
– Roll Length
 Measure and record the length of each
roll inspected.
Picture 10: Visual inspection process

 Defect demerit point:
 All defects clearly visible at normal inspection distance of 3 feet
shall be scored and assigned demerit points:
Length of defect Demerit points

• Up to 3 inches 1 point
• Up to 6 inches 2 points
• Up to 9 inches 3 points
• Over 9 inches 4 points
Hole & opening

 1” or less 2 points
 Over 1” 4 points

Defect demerit 4 Point system
Defect demerit 10 Point system
 Fabric Inspection Formula( 4 point system)
For example:
A 40 yards bolt of fabric 48” in width, has the following defects:
1. 2 defects up to 3”-----------------------2*1= 2 points.

2. 5 defects over 3” up to 6”-------------5*2= 10 points.
3. 1 defect over 6” up to 9”---------------1*3= 3 points.
4. 1 defect over 9”--------------------------1*4= 4 points.
Total defect points-------------------------------= 19 points

 Fabric Inspection Formula( 4 point system)
Total point scored in the bolt * 3600

Point/100 square yards =
Width of the fabric * Total yards inspected
19 points * 3600
Defect points/ 100 sq yards = = 35.6
48 * 40

 Fabric Inspection Reporting System
 How to fill the form
1. Date of inspection
2. Buyer’s name
3. Style No.:
4. Dye lot No.:
5. Dye lot quantity:
6. Fabric width:
7. Total quantity inspected:
8. Defect points per square yards: Picture 11: Fabric inspection form
9. Inspector name:
This inspection report must be clearly written and kept at the fabric inspection department
still the last order’s PO# shipped.
 Other test of fabric inspection / Lab Test
– Other tests such as color shading, shrinkage, color fastness, etc. are
done by in-house Lab as per required standard.

 Fabric shrinkage test
– Before doing any Shrinkage test,
the sample should be conditioned
in an atmosphere of 65% R.H. and
24 to 27 degree in Celcious for a
minimum of 4 hours.

 Fabric shrinkage test
 Fabric colorfastness test
– A colorfast fabric does not bleed, fade
or change when washed or cleaned
with a product or in the washing
machine.
– If the fabric is made up more than

one color, test each color for
colorfastness.

Accessories Inspection
Accessories Inspection
• What is accessories ?
• Buttons, Zipper, Garment Closure,
• Labels, Draw string, Interlining,
• Elastics, Hang Tag, Price Tag,
• Belt and Buckle, Suspender,
• Tissue Paper etc
• Will be explained more detail in
KYP Accessories!
Chemical test / Lab Test
• Chemical Test or Lab Test

Will be done in the laboratory as
a third party.
Depend on the buyer.
Lab Test will be discussed

more detail in
KYP Lab Test Lesson
RED TAPE is fight to cancer symbol
PINK TAPE is specific symbol to breast
healthy
Test Report
• The laboratory will send you the final report
• The Test report explain about:
1. Detail Subject Testing
2. Client/Applicant
3. Buyer Name
4. Sample Description (Patch, Button or Zipper include their code detail)
5. Color
6. Article No
7. Product Class (In direct/not in direct skin contact)
8. Manufacturer
9. Sample receiving Date
10. Test performing Period
11. Test Performed (request by applicant against buyers standard)
12. Test Result (Pass or Fail)
13. Attacthment (about the chemical compound had been tested)
Eco Test Examples
Test Parameter Test Result Buyer Requirements
Arylamines 23 mg/Kg <20 mg/Kg
Total Cadmium N.D <100 mg/Kg
N.D = Not detected PASS or FAILED

Physical Test
• Some times can be done by in-house laboratory.
• For certification usually will be done in Laboratory as
a third party
• Kind of Physical Test
• Dimension (Height, Length, Width, Diameter, Weight)
• The dimension should be compared to the approval
sample.
• Shape (Sharps edges and sharps point)
• Colors, Appearance,
• Pull Strength (button and zipper)
Button Testing
Buttons Diameter:
Use Random Method

Inspection
Put on the buttons onto
the button scale standard
Apply the AQL to make

decisions
Button Testing
Shape:
• Buttons or other accessories
• Have to free from sharp edge
& sharp point
• Especially for Infant and
Kids Garment
Button Testing
• Strength after attach to

garment
• Simple Pull Test
• Metal Buttons and other
attachment/patch
accessories
• Especially Shanks Button,
Jeans Button, Snap Buttons
Zipper:
Chain Crosswise Strength
The Physical Test Top Stop Holding Strength
• Dimension
Bottom Stop Holding Strength
• Kind of Zipper
• Strength Separating Unit Crosswise Strength
The Chemical Test Slider Lock Strength

• Azo-Free Test
• Lead Free
Slider Tap Pull off Strength
IV. Prescreen Pre-Production Sample
 Review style folder
– Style no.
– Order Quantity
– Laboratory reports (acceptable, fail)
– Color swatches/shade band
– Accessories (buttons, Zip, belt etc.)
– Size specifications
– Labeling details
– Packing specifications (size ratio breakdown)
No meeting or inspection can be implemented without style folder and

approval sample.
Prescreen Pre-Production Sample
 Pre production meeting
– Factory /Production Manager, Supervisor and QA
shall attend the pre-production meeting.
– Check original sample against pre-production
sample and technical instruction: styling,
workmanship, trims, color etc.
– Clarify safety and/or regulatory requirements:
label, hangtag, tickets, barcode stickers, UPC Label
etc.
– Understand critical operation and workmanship
and construction concerns.
 The pre-production meeting must be conducted before cutting commences

Prescreen Pre-Production Sample
 Pre production meeting
 Garment wash test
– To make 2 garments/style for washing
test.
– Record measurement before wash
– Follow care instruction for washing test.
24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) Picture 19: garment washed 56

COPY OF PRE PROD SAMPLE WITH TRIM CARD HUNG IN
THE PRODUCTION LINE
V. Cutting Inspection
 Cutting is a process of separating a spread fabric into garment
parts and transferring marks/notches from marker to garment
parts.
Picture 12: Cutting area

Cutting Inspection …Continue…
 Fabric test report verification
– Check with cutting Supervisor for on fabric inspection result and in
– house lab test report;
– Only the spreading operator could process.
 Marker Inspection
- Marker Width
- Panels Quantity
- Panels Shape
- Size Spec
- Grain-Line
Directions
- Marks/Notches

 Spreading mode
– Check the spreading mode, Direction,

or Non – Direction fabric. Aligned of
stripes if 100% matches on garment is
required.
Picture 13: fabric spreading
– Ensure that spreaders are not pulling,
stretching, and overlapping when
laying fabric.
– Pile no more than 3 – 4 inches for thin

fabric, no more than 5 inches for thick
fabric (fleece etc.)
Picture 14: spreading height
 Spreading mode
 Bundle inspection
– Check randomly cutting panels in bundle

against original pattern (top/middle/
bottom) whether cut panels is same as
pattern, measure sizes to ensure the spec
is correct.
– Ensure all cut panels to be numbering Picture 15: Bundle inspection

properly.
– Ensure fabric cut should be done dye lot

by dye lot separately.

 Spreading mode
 Bundle inspection
 Cut panel inspection
– QC 100 % check cut panels to sort
out the defects before sewing.
– Check artwork like print or

embroidery before bulk production.
Picture 16: Cut panel inspection

 How to fill the form:
1. Buyer name:
2. Factory name:
3. Fabric description:
4. Style No.:
5. Date of Inspection:
6. Shrinkage (%):
7. File#:
8. Auditor name:
9. Check marker
Picture 17: Cutting inspection form

VI. During Production (DUPRO)
Inspection
 In-line Inspection
– The In line QC must follow the correct
method to perform traffic light system to
inspect each workstation process 4
times a day, 2 hours per round.
– The In line QC would random sampling

10 pieces twice at every workstation
(random timing)
– When the problem occurs, In line QC

has to coordinate with the sewing
supervisor to find out the solution.
Picture 20: In line QC

During Production
(DUPRO) Inspection
– In line QC must hold or stop the production
related to the process which generated the
problems or defects.
– The objectivity of In line QC is to make sure

that the Garment construction and details
being produced has met on the standard
and specification.
– In line QC has to check frequently the

defect status on hourly basis and make the
corrective action plan.

During Production
(DUPRO) Inspection
 End-line Inspection
– End line QC has to check 100% of the
sewing out put and make the segregation
between the goods and defective
garments.
– Visual inspection (concentrate on

workmanship and appearance.)
– When poor quality is found in a line speak

directly to the line QC & Operators and
explain to fix the problem. Picture 21: end line QC

During Production
(DUPRO) Inspection
– Stop the operation until problem is fixed
then proceed after the problem is solved.
– Provide daily report to line and group

supervisor as well as Factory Manager.
Picture 21: end line QC

During Production
(DUPRO) Inspection
 Finishing Inspection
– 100% inspection is a standard (inspect
workmanship and spec)
– Check overall spec and fitting after

pressed.
Picture 22: Finishing QC

During Production
(DUPRO) Inspection
 Finishing Inspection
– Measure 20% of the daily output of each
line on key points against the template
without recording.
– Measure 32 pieces of garments on all

points and record the measurements Picture 22: Finishing QC
accordingly.

VII. Pre Final Inspection
 Inspection Procedure:
- Make 1st pre-final at 20 -25% of
garments packed 2nd pre final when
50% of garments packed if the 1st
failed.
- When 90% garments packed, QA

make pre-final inspection (if
applicable).
- Pass or fail base on AQL 2.5 level II

(normal inspection). Picture 23: Pre Final Inspection

Pre Final Inspection …Continue…
 Inspecton Procedure
 Carton Inspection
– Check carton marking & barcode sticker
– Check carton measurement.
– Check carton if sealed properly with carton
tape.
– Check color of tape whether as per buyer
requirement.
Picture 24: Carton marking

 Inspection Procedures
 Carton
 Poly bag
– Check quality and its marking
– Poly bag size in relation to folded

garment size
Picture 25: Poly bag size & folded

 Carton
 Poly bag
 Packing
– Check packing quantity & ratio as per

order requested.
– Check packing method & garment

folding size.
– Check hangtag and size stickers tally Picture 26: Check color & ratio
with size label.

 Carton
 Poly bag
 Packing
 Workmanship & measurement
– Check for fabric defects, color shading,
embroidery/print placement and quality
– Check label and trims
– Check garment workmanship, measurement, oil
stain, button position, etc.
– Complete the audit reports, duly sign by QA,
Factory Manager & QA Manager. Picture 27: Check measurement &
workmanship

VIII.Sampling Method
After the selection of product samples from the shipment lot, the
inspection will be performed according to the Acceptable Quality
Level (AQL) standard.
During inspection, product sample size is randomly selected according to
the well-known international standard MIL-STD-105E, ANSI/ASQC Z1.4,
ABC-STD-105, BS6001, ISO 2859, DIN 40080.

Acceptable Quality Level
AQL standard refers to the maximum number of defective that could

be considered acceptable during the random sampling of an
inspection.
The Defects that are found during inspection are classified into 3
levels: Critical, Major and Minor.
The AQL level should be agreed between buyer and supplier before
production commences.

How to determine the AQL for your
products ?
Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) sample inspection methods have
been proven to be an accurate statistics over a long run. However,
the quality level of merchandise at destination might be lower than
that of the pre-shipment inspection result.
This may due to the transportation process, product handling,
humidity, temperature, or etc. You are advised to take these issues
into consideration when deciding the AQL level for your products.

Why we need random sampling, rather
than 100% inspection?
If it is not practical to do 100%.
The destructive test needed.
Takes a lot of time
(the number of product is large quantity).
Expensive inspection procedures.
Not effective inspection.
The
The following
following tools
tools illustrate
illustrate the
the Sample
Sample Size
Size withdraw
withdraw from
from aa given
given Batch
Batch during
during Random
Random
Inspection,
Inspection, in
in accordance
accordance withwith General
General Inspection
Inspection Level
Level IIII standard.
standard.
Quality Level
Level – I Reduced Inspection
Level – II Normal Inspection
Level – III Tightened Inspection
Level – S1 Special Level: only very few sample can

Level – S2 be inspected.
Level – S3 Certain test: Destroy test required, such

as consumer goods
Level – S4
Container Load Supervising (not spent
too much time)
Total quantity = 10,000 pcs of garment
What is your samples size in each level
S1 S2 S3 S4 L-I L-II L-III Level Quality
C D F G J L M Code Letter
5 8 20 32 80 200 315 Sample Size
Lead Time ?
Total quantity = 50,000 pcs of garment
What is your samples size in each level
S1 S2 S3 S4 L-I L-II L-III Level Quality
D E H K N Q R Code Letter
8 13 50 125 500 1250 2000 Sample Size
Lead Time ?
Reduced Inspection (Level I)
 Believe in the quality
 You feel confident
 Less quantity will be checked
 The previous LOT or Batch
have good quality (conform
quality)
 The quality of the item has
consistently improved.
Normal Inspection (Level II)
 No reason to suspect
to the quality
 The quality level
is not differs from
an acceptable level
Tightened Inspection (Level-III)
 More sample will be checked
 Curious something happened
on the previous LOT or
BATCH
 Supplier had severe quality
problem before
Normal to Tightened Inspection
5 rd LOT
Tightened Inspection
4 th LOT Level-III
3 th LOT
2 st LOT
Non Accepted
Normal Inspection
1 nd LOT Level-II
Tightened to Normal Inspection
1 st LOT
2 nd LOT
Accepted
3 rd LOT Tightened Inspection
Level-III
4 th LOT
5 th LOT
Change to
6 th LOT
Normal Inspection
Level-II
Normal to Reduced Inspection
1 st LOT Accepted
Normal Inspection
2 nd LOT Level-II
9 th LOT Accepted
Normal Inspection
10 th LOT Level-II
11 th LOT Change to
Reduced Inspection
Level-I
IX. Defect Classification
During inspection, all defects found are classified into 3
categories:
1. Critical: a defect that is likely to result in producing an unsafe condition or
contravene mandatory regulation. In our normal practice, no Critical Defect is
accepted; any of this kind of defect found will be subjected to an automatic
rejection of inspection result
2. Major: a defect that would reduce the usability of the product, or that shows an
obvious appearance defect that would affect the sales of the product
3. Minor: a defect that does not reduce the usability of the product, but it is still
beyond the defined quality standard.

Defect Classification
According to the common standards of defects can be
classified as:
 Critical
 Major
 Minor
Any Critical Defect found will fail the inspection.

Major Defects are measured as 1 point.
Minor Defects are measured as 1/2 point. (but depended on each customer
requirements & standard)

classified as:
 Critical
– Defects are unacceptable defects
that could risk the safety and/or
health of our guest as well as are in
violation of regulatory procedures.
Cartoon damage (critical)

classified as:
 Critical
 Major
– Defects are serious defects that
affect appearance, performance,
durability or functionality to such a
degree that a guest would not buy
the product if they saw the defect.
The defect would result in guest
dissatisfaction.

classified as:
 Critical
 Major
 Minor
– Defects are a departure from
construction specifications and quality
standards that may affect appearance,
performance, durability or functionality Sleeve armhole defect (minor)
and may reduce its salability at full
price. This defect may result in guest
return or unappealing product
presentation.

How to inspect the garment
 line Inspection
- All seams for cracking, missed stitches, tension of machines
right, needle damage
- Placket for breaking out at bottom corner.
- Seams need to be stretched with force to control needle holes.
- Shoulder tape is not twisted and extra fabric stitched in the
shoulder part.
- Twin needle hemming to ensure no raw edges are visible
- Sew in labels are positioned at the centre of the shirt
- Collars are market to the correct measurement

 line Inspection
 Table Inspection
- Check if a collar is attached evenly.
- Turn the garment and remove the lot
stickers.
- Check the seams at needle damage to
stretch the seams.

 line Inspection
 Pressing
- Press garments flat, never folded with the

sleeves under it as this leaves sleeve impression
marks at the garment.
- Do not iron (press) a placket, only steam this!
- Do not place iron direct onto the collar, only use
lightly steam.
- Garment must no be over-pressed and glazing-
shining effects must not be evident.

 line Inspection
 Pressing
 Packing-final Examination
- Packing instruction must be follow.

- Garment should be packed in a approval bags, with
the front of the garment face up.
- All labels, barcode's, special stickers should be
checked regarding this order, style color and size.
- Cartons must be cleared.
- Remarks at each carton must be numbered by the
lot number and placed at the packing list of this
order by article number, color, size and quantity.

 Seams
- All Seams must be neatly and securely
fastened off, with no loose or long ends.
- The seams must not have any needle
damage.
- The following requirements are general
standards.

 Seams
 Stitches per inch (SPI)
- Standard knitted garments 10-12 stitches per inch
- Standard woven garments 12-14 stitches per inch

 Seams
 Needles
- Machine needles are selected according to the weight
and other garment characteristics, as well as the thread
type being used.
- A sharp pointed needle is used for most sewing.
- A ball-pint is used for knits because its rounded point
tends to slide down between the yarns rather than
pierce them.

 Seams
 Needles
 Threads
- As a general guideline, natural fiber threads

must be used for natural fiber fabrics and
synthetic fiber threads for synthetic fabrics.
- Thread should match the weight of the fabric

and the size of the needle.
- For perfect tension, the thread must be of the

same size and type in the bobbin and in the
needle

 Seams
 Needles
 Threads
 Button & Button Hole
- Buttons must be attached using lockstitch button sewing machines. A

minimum 14 stitches is required.
- Button hole size for woven fabrics 2 mm larger than the diameter of
the button.
- Button hole's in knitted fabrics same size as button diameter.
- The hole's must be checked at clean cut and no loose ends, others
knife blades must be sharp or replaced.
- New type or dyed buttons must be checked at colorfastness during
washing.

 Seams
 Needles
 Threads
 Zipper
- All used zippers must be purchased from approved

suppliers or require a official test report.
- Zipper must be approved during sampling
- Pullers must be checked for color fastness and
breaking during use.
- Zip slider must move without obstruction.
- Zipper may not have loose ends.
- The slider must not be removed or move easily.

 Seams
 Needles
 Threads
 Zipper
 Label
- All labels and design must be checked at

colors and drawing.
- Care instruction at labels must be
checked according project and fabric.
- Stitched seam space must be enough to
view complete logo or slogan after
placement in the garment.

Defect Zone
The following diagrams showing major and minor apparel defect
zones A,B and C
AA defect
defect in
in “A”
“A” zone
zone is
is
considered
considered more
more serious
serious
than
than aa defect
defect in
in “B”
“B” zone
zone
AA defect
defect in
in “B”
“B” zone
zone is
is
considered
considered more
more serious
serious
than
than aa defect
defect in
in “C”
“C” zone
zone
and
and will
will be
be categorized
categorized
accordingly
accordingly

Defect Zone
The following diagrams showing major and minor apparel defect
zones A,B and C
AA defect
defect in
in “A”
“A” zone
zone isis
considered
considered more
more serious
serious
than
than aa defect
defect in
in “B”
“B” zone
zone
AA defect
defect in
in “B”
“B” zone
zone is
is
considered
considered more
more serious
serious
than
than aa defect
defect in
in “C”
“C” zone
zone
and
and will
will be
be categorized
categorized
accordingly
accordingly

Samples of Defects
Packing Inspections
Carton Marking Missing, Incorrect or not legible

Packing Inspections ,,, Continue…
Carton Type or Size not as Specified

Carton Damaged

Not pressed, folded, hung, poly-bagged, packed or assorted as specified

Finishing and Packing Inspections ,,, Continue…
Pressing defects include shine, moiré, color change, scorching or any other
conspicuous “hard” pressing defect

Fabrics
Holes where the yarn is cut, broken ends, drop stitch that runs

Fabrics,,, Continue…
Vertical or horizontal lines permanently knit or finished into fabric (i.e. needle lines,
compactor creases, barre, light/heavy ends). Visible at arms length

Soil, oil spots with contrast visible at arm's length, adversely affecting appearance

Significant snags and/or slubs distinguishable when viewed at arm's length,

adversely affecting appearance

Misweaves, mispicks (wovens)

Shaded parts/thread and/or visible components, adversely affecting appearance

Printing defects: Wrong, missing or incomplete coverage of color, misregistered, over

1/16"

Conspicuous pilling; not to agreed upon standard

Basic Measurement
• How to measure
• Tolerance
-----------THANK YOU-----------

Garment QA Concepts

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Garment QA Concepts

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Quality Assurance Lecture:

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 1

The goals of Quality Assurance implementation is focusing on prevention

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 3

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 4

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 5

Final Finishing / Defects In Line Sewing

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 7

Quality assurance attempts

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 8

– The fabric typically arrives in steel

– Garment factories often have a

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 11

– “Relaxing” refers to the process that allows

– This step is necessary because the material

– The relaxing process allows fabrics to shrink

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 12

– After fabric has been relaxed, it is

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 13

– Embroidery and screen printing are two

– Customers may request embroidery to put

– Screen printing is the process of applying

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 14

– Garments are sewn in an assembly line,

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 15

– spots on the garment that may have

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 16

– In most facilities, the ironing platforms are

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 17

– In the last steps of making a product retail-

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 18

Picture 2: fabric inspection machine

 Inspection speed : The frame should be capable of running up to 30 yards per

 Viewing Distance : The inspection should be performed from an observation

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 20

Light Source Light Type

Suggested Lightbox Maker(Brand) Suggested Bulb Specification

 Vervide CAC  D65=GE6500K(made by GE )

– The walls of the room should be

Picture 3: color room

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 23

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 24

 Preferably about 2 yards inside one

 This sample will be used for color

Picture 6: fabric inspection process

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 25

– This should be done once for each

Picture 7: color verification

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 26

– If the color and/or the aesthetics do

– The factory will determine how the

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 27

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 28

– Cut a small sample (about 2x2 inch)

– Check the samples against the fabric

– Note any significant variation of

Picture 9: fabric swatch card

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 29

Picture 10: Visual inspection process

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 30

Length of defect Demerit points

Hole & opening

24-001 QM(Garment QA Concept) 31