Dyeing of polester/cotton blends

R.B.Chavan
Inst. Tech. for Textile, Garment and
Fashion Design,
Bahir Dar university
Bahir Dar, Ethiopia
 Dyeing methods
• Batchwise methods Semi-continuous
• Semi continous Pad-develop
• Continuous methods (Disperse/vat)
• Batch wise equipments
Continuous
• HTHP beam dyeing Thermosol
• Jet dyeing (Disperse/Reactive)
• High temp. winch or jigger
 Dye classes
• Two dye class Most important
systems Reactive
• Polyester Vat
• Only disperse dye Sulphur
class Direct (Limited)
• Cotton
Single dye class
• While dyeing cotton systems
preference is given to
dye classes which Solubilized vat
produce shades with Pigment
good fastness Special disperse
dyes
 Dyeing methods
• Exhaust methods
• Two bath dyeing process
• Dyeing PET with disperse dyes
• Subsequent dyeing cotton with vat, reactive,
sulphur, direct dyes
• One bath one step dyeing process
• Disperse/Reactive
• Disperse/Direct
• Disperse/Vat
• One bath two step
• Disperse/Vat
 Dyeing methods
• Semi continuous
• Disperse/Reactive
• Disperse/Vat
• Continuous
• Disperse/Reactive
• Pigment
• Solubilized vat
• Special disperse dyes
• Selection of process and dye combination depends
on Economy, equipment available, batch size,
depth of shade, brilliancy etc.
 Two bath dyeing
• Involves additional labour
and time
• Produce shades with good
fastness
• Easy to control
• Dyeing under ideal
conditions
Steps
• Dyeing PET with disperse
dye
• Reduction clear
Dyeing cotton with
suitable dye class
When dyeing with vat
dyes intermediate
reduction clear not
essential
In carrier dyeing two
bath method is
preferred
Stability of carrier
emulsion is limited in
presence of large
amount of salt
 One bath dyeing
• Disperse/Vat
• Vat dyes must ultra dispers or micro fine quality
• Must have good dispersion stability under dyeig
cnditions
• Typical dyeing recipe
• X% Disperse dye
• Y% Vat dye
• 0.5-1% Dispersing agent
• 0.5-1% wetting agent
• pH 4-5 with acetic acid (30%)
Prepare the bath with dispersing agent,
wetting agent and acetic acid

Treat material for 10-15 min at 50-60

deg.C

Add well dispersed disperse and vat dyes

Dye for 10-15 min

Raise temp. 120-130 deg.C in 60-90 min

 One bath dyeing
• RATE OF TEMP. RISE DEPENDS ON
• DEPTH OF SHADE
• RATE OF LIQUOR CIRCULATION
• LOW RATE OF HEATING FOR PALE TO MEDIUM SHADES
• RAPID RATE OF HEATING FOR HEAVY SHADES
• MAJOR PART OF DISPERSE DYE DOES NOT EXHAUST UNTIL
BATH HAS REACHED 120 DEG.C
• AFTER PET COMPONENT DYEING
• COOL BATH 80 DEG.C
• DYE COTTON BY ADDING HYDROSULPHITE AND CAUSTIC
SODA
• CONCENTRATION DEPEND ON VAT DYE CATEGORY (IW, IN,
IN SPECIAL
• MANUFACTURERES RECOMMENDATION TO BE FOLLOWED
• IN CASE OF IW ADD 10-15 G/L GLAUBERS SALT
 ONE BATH DYEING
• VAT DYES LEVEL OUT WELL AT 80 DEG.C
• DYE AT THIS TEMP FOR 15 MIN
• COOL BATH TO 60 DEG.C
• CONTINUE DYEING FOR 30 MIN. FOR BETTER EXHAUSTION
• RISNSE WITH COLD WATER
• OXIDIZE WITH
• 1-2 ML/L HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (35%)
• 0.5-1 G/L ANIONIC DETERGENT
• PH 9 WITH ACETIC ACID 1-2 G/L (FABRIC IS HIGHLY
ALKALINE
• TREATMENT 15 MIN AT 50 DEG.C
• RINSE WITH COLD WATER
• SOAP AT 95 DEG.C FOR 25 MIN USING 2 G/L LISSAPOL D
• HOT AND COLD RINSE
 ONE BATH TWO STEP DYEING
• METHOD IS USED WHEN SELECTED VAT DYES SEVERELY
STAIN PET COMPONENT DURING HIGH TEMP DYEING.

• NO STAINING OF PET WHEN VAT DYES APPLIED IN LEUCO

STATE BELOW 90DEG.C

• MODIFIED ONE BATH TWO STEP METHOD PRODUCES

BETTER RESULTS THAN APPLYEING DISPERSE VAT DYES
SIMULTANEOUSLY.
MEHTHOD ADD REQUIRED
DYE PET WITH DISPERSE AMOUNT OF CAUSTIC
DYE UNDER HTHP SODA AND
CONDITIONS HYDROSULPHITE
COOL BATH TO 80 DEG.C CONTINUE DYEING AS
ADD DISPERSED VAT USUAL
DYE OXIDIZE
RUN FOR 10 MIN SOAP
COOL TO 60 DEG C WASH
 Disperse/Reactive dyes
• ALKALI STABLE DISPERSE DYES AND HIGH TEMP
STABLE (H-E) REACTIVE DYES ARE USED
• DYE AT BOIL FOR REQUIRED LENGTH OF TIME
• COOL THE BATH TO 70-80 DEG.C ADD ALKALI FOR
REACTIVE DYE FIXATION
• DISPERSE DYES USED SHOULD BE STABLE TO
ALKALI.
• CONVENTIONAL REACTIVE DYES ARE NOT
STABLE TO HIGH TEMP.
• NOT SUITABLE FOR ONE BATH DYEING
 Continuous dyeing
Disperse/vat dyes

• SEQUENCE OF OPERAIONS

• PADDING WITH DISPERSE/VAT DYES

• INTERMEDIATE DRYING

• THERMOSOL

• VATTING FOR VAT DYE FIXATION

1. PAD-DRY-THERMOSOL-COOL
2. CHEMICAL PAD-STEAM-OXIDIZE-WASH-SOAP-
WASH