Budding

Budding

Budding is a form of grafting in which a single vegetative bud is taken

from one plant and inserted into the stem tissue of another so that the
two will unite and grow together.

The inserted bud eventually develops into a new shoot.

Budding has several advantages

It is quick and efficient method of propagation

Budding is one of the best method of economical use of propagating

material specially when the propagating material is scarce
Budding is very useful in plants that release excessive wood gums from
injury caused to xylem or wood portion of the stem at the time of grafting

Budding generally results in stronger union and thus prevent the blowing
out of the scion in storms or strong winds

Budding is simple and even can be performed by amateurs

T budding

It is also called as the method of Shield budding

It is the most widely used method of budding.

The method is known as T budding because of the T like cut given on the
stock and shield budding because of the Buds shield like appearance when
remove from the bud stick

One year old rootstocks either raised as seedling layers or cuttings are
used in T budding.
The thickness of the stock varies
from 0.62 cm to 2.5 cm having thin
and readily separating bark. The bud
is placed onto the stock about 5-25
cm above the soil level on a smooth
clean surface between the node of the
rootstock.

First a vertical cut of about 2.5 cm

long is made on the selected portion
of the rootstock with the help of a
budding knife.

Then a horizontal cut across the top

at right angle to first cut is made,
thus the cut resembles a T.
Care should be taken that the
incisions goes only through the
bark and the wood is not injured.

The spatula portion of the budding knife

is then inserted into the incision and the
two flaps of the bark are then loosened
slightly to receive the bud.

The bud is removed from the bud stick by

cutting shallowly about 6.2 mm below a
mature bud and continuing up to about
2.5 cm above the bud.

The bud should not be to thick or too

thin. It may contain a little slice of wood
or the wood may be removed by bending
the bark outwards and flicking it out.
The next step is the insertion of the shield piece, containing the bud into the
incision of the stock.

The bud is then slipped into the T cut on stock and the tail is trimmed off
cutting it horizontally along the top of the T cut.

The next step is wrapping or fixing the bud with a stock, so as to press the
shield firmly against the wood on the stock.

Polyethylene tape, jute string, rubber band, waxed budding tape etc. are
used for the purpose of tying
Inverted T budding

In areas with heavy rains the

inverted T budding is
considered better then the
normal T budding as water
running down the stock will
not enter the T cut and will
not cause decaying of the
shield.

Similarly in species where

the sap flows profusely
during budding, the inverted
T cut allows better drainage
of excess sap and
consequently better healing.
The technique of inverted T budding is essentially the same as mentioned
for T budding, except than a T cut an inverted T cut is given in the stock.

The bud is prepared as for T budding with or without the wood adhering
to it.

The bud is then inserted by pushing it upward beneath the flaps of the
inverted T cut
Patch budding

It is best done in spring and rainy season in India when both the stock and
the source of scion are growing rapidly.

First a rectangular patch of bud about 25mm long and 10-15mm wide is
removed from the rootstock having a diameter of about 25 mm.

A bud shield of identical dimension or slightly smaller then the exposed part
of the stock is removed from the bud stick by making two horizontal cuts
above and below the bud.
Two vertical cuts are then made
connecting the horizontal cuts
and the patch of bark is carefully
lifted by inserting the blade of the
knife beneath the bark.

The patch is placed on the

exposed wood of the rootstock.

While transferring the but care

should be taken that the bud
should fit properly on the stock
and tied immediately.

Tying should be done in such a

way keeping the bud uncovered.
Flute budding

In flute budding the patch of the bark

removed from the rootstock almost
completely encircles it except a
narrow bark connection between the
upper and lower cuts on the stock.

A similar patch of bark containing a

plump and healthy bud is removed
from the bud stick and placed at the
vacant area of the rootstock.

The bud patch should fit the cuts on

the stock perfectly, it should be
neither oversized or undersized.
Tying is done as usual keeping the
bud uncovered.
Ring budding

It is also called as angular

budding.

Ring budding differs from

flute budding as in that a
cylinder of bark is removed
from the stock so that the
latter is completely girdled.

A similar ring of bark

containing the bud is removed
from the bud stick and is
slipped over the rootstock.
In ring budding it is essential that the rootstock and the bud stick are of the
same thickness.

The method is applicable for stocks whose diameter is not more than 2 cm.

Since stock is completely girdled, if the bud fails to unite the top portion of
the stock will ultimately die.
I budding

Another form of patch

budding is I budding
where the bud patch is in
the form of a rectangle or
a square is removed from
the bud stick.

The two transverse cuts

are made on the smooth
surface of the stock.
The cuts are joined are joined at their centers by a vertical cut to
produce an I.

The two flaps of barks are then lifted and the bud patch is placed
underneath.

Tying is done thereafter.

Forkert budding

In forkert budding the

stock is prepared by
giving two vertical cut
and a transverse cuts to
join them. The bark is
peeled carefully along
these cuts and the flap
of bark hangs down.

The scion bud is

prepared as in patch
budding, corresponding
to the size of cuts made
on the stock.
The bud is then fitted onto the exposed portion of the stock and the flap is
drawn over the inserted bud, followed by wrapping of the budded portion
with waxed cloth strips or any other tying material.

After about 3-4 weeks when the union is complete, the wrapping material
is removed.
Chip budding

It is a very useful method of

budding in species where the
bark does not slip well and in
the season when the plant does
not grow actively.

In chip budding a chip of bark

and wood is removed from the
smooth surface between the
node of a rootstock and replaced
with a chip of similar dimension
carrying a bud from the plant to
be propagated.

First a 2.5 to 3 cm long

downward cut is made through
the bark and slightly into the
wood of the stock.
A second 0.62 cm long cut is made so to intercept the lower portion of
the first cut at an angle of 45 degree and the chip of the bark and wood
is removed from the stock.

In preparing the scion –bud, similar cuts are made on the bud stick
ensuring that a bud is present midway down the chip.

The bud chip is removed from the bud stick and placed in position on
the rootstock so as to make a close fit.

The chip bud is tied then securely in place with polyethylene tap. Proper
tying or wrapping is essential.
Thank You