Professional Documents
Culture Documents
By Tekalgn M.
ጥቅምት/2015 ዓ/ም
October/2022 G.C.
1
Textile terms
• SPINNING:
• The extrusion of a solution of fiber-forming substances through holes in a spinneret to
form filaments (fiber spinning)
• The process or processes used in the production of single yarns.
• The process of converting staple or short lengths of fibers, into continuous yarn or thread.
(yarn spinning)
• YARN
• A generic term for a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or material in a
form suitable for knitting, weaving, braiding, or otherwise intertwining to form a
textile fabric.
• TWIST
• The number of turns about its axis per unit of length of a yarn, or textile strand.
• Twist is expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm) or turns per
centimeter (tpc)
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Raw material properties and spinning Technologies
• Raw material represents about 50 - 75 % of the
manufacturing cost of a short-staple yarn
• Textile fibers’ diameter is
• significance of the raw material for the yarn undetermined
producer
• Fiber fineness
• Therefore fiber and yarn fineness
• one of the three most important fiber characteristics determined by weigh to length
(length and strength) ratio
• Determines how many fibers are present in the cross-
section of yarn of a given thickness.
• A multitude of fibers in the cross-section provide high Mic VALUE FINENESS
strength and better distribution in the yarn. up to 3.1 very fine
• Minimum spinning limit 30 but usually >100 fibers 3.1 - 3.9 fine
• Influences medium (premium
4.0 - 4.9
• spinning limit • drape of the fabric range)
• Yarn strength • luster 5.0 - 5.9 slightly coarse
• yarn evenness • handle above 6 coarse
• yarn fullness • productivity of the process.
Conversion factor: dtex = Mic × 0.394 3
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Fiber strength
Fiber elongation
• predominant characteristic • permanent elongation (plastic elongation)
• fiber does not return on relaxation
• most of the fibers are not usable for textiles
because of inadequate strength • elastic elongation
• fiber does return on relaxation
• Because fibers are binds in to yarn by twisting
• breaking elongation
• New spinning running speed is high
• Extension of the fiber until it breaks
• Except for hydrophobic fibers (polyester, • permanent elongation and elastic elongation together
polypropylene fibers) strength is moisture- • Form best deformation and recovery elastic elongation is
dependent. important for textile materials
• As moisture increase strength of: • cotton fiber elongation
• Cellulosic fibers increase • below 5.0 % = very low
• polyamide fiber decrease • 5.0 - 5.8 % = low
• 5.9 - 6.7 % = average
• Some significant breaking strengths of fibers are: • 6.8 - 7.6 % = high
• polyester fiber 35 - 60 cN/tex • above 7.6 % = very high
• cotton 15 - 40 cN/tex
• wool 12 - 18 cN/tex 5
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Chemical deposits
Neps Dust (sticky substances)
•Neps are small entanglements or knots of
• small and
fibers • Common sticky substance in
microscopic particles
•There are two types of neps • Transporting in air cotton is called honey dew
•fiber neps with fiber • this is a secretion of white
•small knots that consist only of fibers • stress on personnel fly
•seedcoat neps • dust is unpleasant • or the plants themselves
•small knots containing foreign particles (for eyes and nose)
• allergies • Resist fiber opening and stick on
such as husk, seed or leaf fragments • it can induce machine parts
• amount of neps depends on respiratory disease
•Maturitiy
•fiber fineness
•The processing method
• •up
produced by picking
to 150 = very low and
• 350hard ginning
- 450 = high;
• 150 - 250 = low • above 550 = very high
• 250 - 350 = average
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Fiber characteristics which affect yarn breaking
force properties
Relative importance of the fiber
influences
• Influence of fiber parameters
• Differs for the individual
spinning systems,
• new or conventional
8
Ginning
• Cotton fibers are produced in the seed pods (“bolls”) Objectives
of the cotton plant
• Remove seed from lint
• as a result, the fibers (“lint”) in the bolls are
interspersed with the seeds • Cleaning
• So it is necessary to separate the “seed” from “lint” • Remove foreign matters
• Ginning is the first mechanical process involved in • Compressing and packing bales for
processing cotton easy transportation
• Used to separate cotton fibers from their seeds • Control moisture
Cotton seed
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Types of ginning
Saw ginning
• separates the lint from the seed by pulling fibers by saws
through ribs.
• consists of a series of circular saws ( 305-407 mm in
diameter)
• mounted closely on an axle
• revolve at high speed to tear the lint away from a roll of
seed cotton.
• bars or ribs prevent the seed from going forward.
• the saw projects slightly between bars or ribs
• seed falls through a grid into a collecting box ( conveyer).
• lint is removed from teeth of the saws by high-speed
brushes or an air blast.
• used for short and medium staple cotton i.e. up to 28
mm
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Roller ginning
- most suitable for ginning
- medium, long and extra long staple cotton varieties-
- b/c gentle as compared to saw ginning Principle of seed
separation:
- gripping and stretching of fiber though rollers/blades.
- consists of :
- Roller(leather surface) - to carry the seed cotton to a stationary
knife
- Stationary knife: prevents passing of seeds.
- reciprocating knife /rotary knife- beats the seed so that the
fibers are separated by a stretching action.
- due to a push-pull-hit action fibers are separated from the seeds.
- Roller Gin preserves fiber length whereas Saw Gins have the
inherent
- disadvantage of breaking fiber, increasing short fiber content
and creating neps which are detrimental to lint spin ability.
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Machine sequence
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Machine sequence
1. Feeder
2. Dryer
• The stationary head feeder employs a
dispersing head with spiked rollers for
breaking apart the module. • heated air conveys the cotton
• modules are transported to the stationary through the shelves for 10-15 sec.
dispersing head on a series of beds • Fiber breaking force increases
• The stationary dispersing head is equipped with fiber moisture content
with a series of horizontal spiked cylinders
• that remove cotton from the face of the • But excessive fiber dryness cause
module and deposit the cotton onto a brittleness which results in fiber
conveyor or into an airline for mechanical breakage, thereby shortening the
or pneumatic conveying to the gin. staple length
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3. Cylinder Cleaner
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4. Extractor Feeder
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5. Gin Stand
• It is the heart of the ginning plant
• There are two types of ginning
Saw and roller ginning
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Blow room (blowing process)
Objectives Opening
•Opening is the breaking up of the fiber mass into tufts
• Opening •It creates a new surface for cleaning
•Large and heavy enough foreign matters drop through the void created by
• Cleaning opening
•Opening stages
• Mixing/Blending •opening to flocks:
•in the blow room
•opening to fibers (individualization):
•in the card and OE spinning machine
•opening out
•volume of the flock is increased while the number of fibers remains constant
•is needed for blending and aligning
•breaking apart
•two or more flocks are formed from one flock without changing the specific
density
•Breaking apart would suffice for cleaning
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opening devices
22
D egree of cleaning Cleaning efficiency
• This is the percentage of the impurities removed • In mechanical cleaning loss of some good fibers is an
from the fiber mass unavoidable loss
• When considering this fiber loss, we can refer to the
cleaning efficiency (effective cleaning)
( 𝑊𝑖𝑛 −𝑊𝑜 ) ∗100
D egree of cleaning ( DC ¿=
𝑊𝑖𝑛 CE
• Where
Win and Wo = respectively mass of the
impurities in the fiber at the input and output
to a machine
DC= degree of cleaning CE= cleaning efficiency
WT = mass of waste
WF= mass fiber in the waste
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Mixing/ blending
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Operational sequence in blow room
Bale opening
• It is a pre-opening process
• The machine should be able to
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Conti… 1. Cleaning cylinder
2. Cleaning grid
3. Airlock cylinder
coarse cleaning” (pre-cleaners) 4. Material feed
5. Material outlet
• These machines are preceded by the opening machines 6. Exhaust air to filter
• which create a large quantity of tufts, i.e. large surface 7. Waste removal
areas
• In Rieter B 12 UNI clean the material
• forced to pass over the grid five times, always presenting
new surface areas to it.
• also pass over a specially arranged perforated sheet fi ve
times
• The chamber behind this sheet is a low-pressure chamber.
• The air suction through this sheet provides very efficient
dedusting.
• The waste is collected inside the machine and fed to the
waste transport via an airlock cylinder.
• Intermittent suction and connection to continuous suction is
possible. The airlock prevents good fibers from being sucked
through the grid during waste removal.
UNIclean
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Mixing/blending machines
• It is made up of three parts
• storage section
• intermediate chamber
• delivery section
• Tufts are fed pneumatically and
simultaneously into eight chutes
• The conveyor belt feeds the stock through the
intermediate chamber to the spiked lattice.
• The material columns are thus diverted from The Trützschler Multiple Mixer
the vertical into the horizontal.
• This 90° deflection in the material flow
also produces a shift in the timing and
spatial distribution of the fiber packages Rieter UNI-mix
• different distances from the individual
chutes to the lattice
• chute 1: short distance; at chute 8:
long distance
• This creates mixing/blending
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1. Material feed
UNI blend 2. Dedusting and air
extraction
3. Air to filter unit
4. Dosage unit
• It is the an other way for blending in blow room 5. Component layers
• In addition to 6. Take-off unit
7. Inverter-controlled
bale management and draw frame blending transport fan
8. Control cabinet
• As with the UNI-mix, several chutes are arranged
side by side
• but every chute has its own, separate feed
• at the bottom with an independent
metering device
• therefore, drops a precisely measured quantity
of material onto the collecting conveyer belt,
• which again forwards the accurately
metered material stock to the take-off unit
Dust removal(fine cleaner ) machines
One-piece chute without opening system Two-piece chute with opening system
• complex
• Simple
• Expensive
• Uncomplicated
• Delivers even and well-
• Economical opened batt
• Needs little maintenance • The transport air escapes
via
• Comply meeting the a perforated sheet and is
required performance carried away by a suction
duct.
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Q bags with
suction tube
Carding plates
Main cylinder
• The fibres are removed from the cylinder by the “doffer”. The cylinder and
doffer surfaces move in the same direction at the transfer zone.
• The doffer rotates at a considerably slower surface speed than does the
cylinder and consequently fibres accumulate on the doffer wire.
Card Clothing and Wire Point Disposition
Flexible clothing
ii. Rigid metallic clothing
• Can withstand high strain when m/c runs faster. Found in main
cylinder, taker-in and doffer.
Production =
Production – g/time
Delivery speed( m/min)
= efficiency
Draw frame
Objectives