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Yarn geometry
Md. Alimur Reza
alimurreza0@gmail.com
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Interrelation among fiber ,yarn and fabric:

Molecular
properties & Fiber
structure

Fiber properties Yarn Structure

Yarn Fabric
properties Structure

Fabric
properties

End use
performance
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Fiber structure:
• The following structures are to be
considered in case of fiber:
• 1.Molecular structure.
• 2.Physical structure.
• 1.Molecular structure: It indicates the
type and size of molecules, the ways in
which the molecules are arranged
Chemical composition, polymer system
of structure.
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• 1.Macro structure : The physical structure

which is visible to naked eye or to a low
powered microscope is known as macro
structure. It indicates the length, diameter,
length width ratio and color of fiber.
• 2.Micro structure: The micro structure of
fiber is indicates the different parts of fiber
by which the fiber is composed of. For
example cotton fiber is composed of
cuticle, primary wall, secondary wall&
lumen.
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Fiber packing in yarn

• The arrangement of fiber in yarn is
called fiber packing in yarns. The
packing of circular fibers can be
described by 2 basic forms:
• 1.Open packing
• 2.Hexagonal close packing
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Opening packing
• Open packing is that in which the fibers lie
I layers between successive concentric
circles. In this assembly, the first layer is a
single core fiber around which six fibers
are arranged so that all are touching. The
third layer has twelve fibers which is
arranged so that the fibers first touch the
circle that circumscribes the second layer.
Additional layers are added between the
successive circumscribing circles.
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Open packing:
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Layer no. Maximum number Total number of

of fibers in layers fiber
1 1 1
2 6 7
3 12 19
4 18 37
5 25 62
6 31 93
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Hexagonal close packing:

• The packing of fibers of circular cross-section
around a single core fiber in a hexagonal
configuration leads to what is called close
packing. In this form, all fibers touch each other.
Other close hexagonal configurations obtained
with cores of two, three, four and five fibers. As
the number of fibers in the cross-section
increases, the yarn outline tends to become
complicated & deviates from the prefered
hexagonal shape.
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Layer no. Number of fibers Total number of

in layer fibers
1 1 1

2 6 7

3 12 19

4 18 37

5 24 61

6 30 91

7 36 127
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Define packing factor:

• The ratio of fiber volume to yarn volume is called
packing factor. It is denoted by 
Fiber Volume
• =
Yarn volume

• Considering for unit length of yarn,

'2

• Fiber volume=  d4

• Total fiber volume= n d'

2

4
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• Yarn of volume = d2

4

• From equation 1 we get,

 d '2 4
  n. X
4 d2
d' 2
 n.( )
d
d' 

d n
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Yarn: Yarn is a product that has substantial

length & relatively small cross-section
consisting of regular & irregular fiber bound
by twist or without twist.
Yarn is uniform arrangement of fiber bound
together by twisting.
Classification of yarn on the basis of structure:
• Yarn

• Cabled Multifolded Single Complex Fancy

• Yarn yarn yarn yarn yarn

Modified continuous Spun Continuous

Filament yarn filament

• Homogeneous Blended Multifilament Monofilament

•
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Classification of yarn:
• Single yarn: Single yarns are made from
group of staple fiber & filament.

• Spun yarn: Spun yarn is formed by

twisting of staple fiber.
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• Homogeneous: Which are spun from only

one types of fiber.100% cotton.
• Blended: Which are spun from more than
one type of fiber. Ex. PC/TC,CVC
• PC: Polyester cotton blend. The yarn which
is produced by blending of cotton &
polyester fiber. The maximum part of this
yarn is polyester.
• CVC: Chief value cotton. The yarn which is
produced by blending of cotton & polyester
fiber. The maximum part of this yarn is
Cotton.
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Continuous filament: Filaments are long,

continuous fiber strands of indefinite length
measured in yards or meter.
Monofilament:
Multifilament:

Modified continuous filament: The Continuous

filament yarns which are modified to change their
appearance and other properties.
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• Multifolded yarn/Ply yarn: ply yarns produced

by twisting together two or more single yarn. Ex.
sewing thread.

• Cabled yarn: Cabled yarns are produced by

twisting together two or more ply yarn. Ex. cord
yarn.

• Complex yarn: A complex yarn consists of either

a continuous filament core is surrounded by
staple fibers or a spun yarn core is surrounded
by continuous filaments. Ex: core spun yarn.
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• The core spun yarn are used to enhance

functional properties of the fibres such as
strength, durability and stretch comfort.
Polyester filaments are often wrapped with a
cotton outer layer in order to provide the
strength and resiliency of polyester, along
with the moisture absorbent and dye of
affinity of cotton

• Fancy yarn: Fancy yarn is produced by

introducing hairiness, neps, thick thin place
in yarn. Ex, Slub yarn ,Neppy yarn etc.
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Classification of Yarn on the basis of last m/c used

in spinning line:

• 1.Ring yarn- produced from Ring Spinning

Machine
• 2.Rotor yarn-produced from rotor spinning
machine
• 3.Airjet yarn-Produced from Air jet spinning
machine
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Yarn designation:
• Yarn Designation:
The factor which are required to express yarn
structure and properties wholly, are called
yarn designation.
The factors of yarn designation are:-

Yarn Count / Linear Density.

• No. of Filaments.
• Fibre Components.
• No. of components in folding.
• Direction & amount of twist.
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Yarn Twist:
• The spiral disposition of the components
of a thread which is usually the result of
relative rotation of two ends.
• Twist is the measure of the spiral turns
given to a yarn in order to hold the
constituent fiber on threads together.
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Direction of twist:
• The direction of twist in a yarn is designed
in two ways:
• 1.Right-handed twist: S twist or clockwise
• 2.Left-handed twist: Z twist or
anticlockwise
• Single yarns are generally twisted in
anticlockwise directions, whereas the S or
clockwise twist is very common in ply
yarns.
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Direction of twist:
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The function of twist in yarn structure:

• Without twist a strand of fibers has very
little strength. The main function of twist
is to give coherence to the yarn. It also
gives strength to the yarn.
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Twist and yarn strength

• An increase in the amount of twist produces
an increase in the yarn strength and that
effect holds only up to a certain point
beyond which further increase in twist
causes the yarn to become weaker.
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Amount of twist:
• The amount of twist in a thread at each
stage of manufacture is denoted by TPI.

• The number of turns of twist per unit

length in the twisted condition.
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Amount of twist varies with:

• 1.Length of fiber
• 2.Size of fiber
• 3.Intended use.
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Effect of twist on fabric properties:

• By varying the amount of direction of twist
the fabric designer can achieve a variety of
fabric effect. Some are described below:
• 1.One example of a visual effect is the
shadow stripe. Suppose a cloth is woven
with the warp threads in alternate bonds
of S & Z twist. A shadow stripe effect is
observed in the finished cloth due to the
difference in the way the incident light is
reflected from the two sets of yarn.
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• 2.In case of twill fabric, if the warp of a twill

has z twist and the weft of a twill has S twill,
it will produce subdued twill line.

• Conversely, the use of a Z- way weft will

produce a bolder twill line.
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Twist multiplier:
• It is the measure of twist hardness of a
yarn. The amount of twist needed in a
yarn depends on yarn size, the staple
length of fibers used and the desired end
use application. A yarn may be soft twisted
(knit yarn) or it may be hard twisted
(crepe yarn).The factor used to achieve
these characteristics is the twist multiplier.
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Optimum twist factor:

• The twist factor at which maximum

strength is achieved in any given length is
sometimes called optimum twist
multiplier.
• The optimum twist factor and lowest twist
will both depend on fiber characteristics
such as fiber length, flexural rigidity,
fineness and frictional property. It also
depends on count of yarn.