MODULE “DESIGN AND PRODUCTION OF KNITWEAR

Assist. Prof. Daniela Sofronova, PhD

Bachelor’s, Master’s & PhD Degree Program, Faculty of Power Engineering and Power Machines,
Technical University of Sofia, BULGARIA

Assoc. Prof. Marija Potočić Matković, PhD

Bachelor’s, Master’s & PhD Degree Programs, Faculty of Textile Technology
University of Zagreb, CROATIA

The course is developed under Erasmus+ Program Key Action 2:

Cooperation for innovation and the exchange of good practices Knowledge Alliance

ICT IN TEXTILE AND CLOTHING HIGHER EDUCATION AND BUSINESS

Project Nr. 612248-EPP-1-2019-1-BG-EPPKA2-KA

The information and views set out in this publication are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the official opinion of the European Union. Neither the European
Union institutions and bodies nor any person acting on their behalf may be held responsible for the use which may be made of the information contained therein. 1
 MODULE COURSE
Design and Production of Woven Design of Weave Patterns for the Fashion Industry
Fabrics Design and Technologies for Weft and Warp Knitwear Production
COURSE

MODULE COURSE
Design and Production of Knitwear Flat Knitting Machine programming for Fabrics and 2D Shaped Fabrics

COURSE
Flat Knitting Machine programming for 3D Knitwear

Application of ICT in Design of Textile and

COURSE
3D Simulation
MODULE COURSE
Apparel Design and Production ICT in Apparel Production
COURSE
2D CAD Pattern Making

CURRICULUM
COURSE

Clothing
MODULE Smart and Intelligent Textiles
Design and Production of Technical,
COURSE
Smart and Intelligent Textiles Technical Textiles: Construction and Testing
COURSE
Basic principles of textile printing
MODULE COURSE
Finishing, Printing and Finishing in the function of digital printing
Functionalization COURSE
Novel trends in textile functionalization
COURSE
MODULE Information technologies for quality control
Industrial Engineering, Quality
Control and Management
COURSE
MODULE Introduction to ICT (Basic digital skills)
ICT COURSE
ICT in textile and fashion industry
COURSE
MODULE Basic Entrepreneurial skills
Entrepreneurship COURSE
Entrepreneurship in TCI (textile and clothing industry)

The information and views set out in this publication are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the official opinion of the European Union. Neither the European
Union institutions and bodies nor any person acting on their behalf may be held responsible for the use which may be made of the information contained therein.
 TRAINING COURSE

Design and Technologies for Weft and Warp Knitwear

Production
Assist. Prof. Daniela Sofronova, PhD
Bachelor’s, Master’s & PhD Degree Program, Faculty of Power Engineering and Power
Machines, Technical University of Sofia, BULGARIA

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 MODULE “DESIGN AND PRODUCTION OF KNITWEAR”
Duration: 20 hours

Course objectives
The knitting technology has been playing a very vital role in our life style. Knowledge developed in the past, particularly in the last 50 years in the field of knitting
technology has contributed significantly to the developments of state-of-the-art machinery on one hand and highly sophisticated and specialized textile products
on the other. Advanced knitting machines capable of producing high-value apparel require highly skilled programmers and designers with technical understanding.
The course will provide an in depth overview about the operations and functionalities of the most spread knitting machines and the associated design structures.

Topics
- Circular knitting machines - Rashel knitting machines
- Flat knitting machines - Tricot knitting machines
- Sock knitting machines

Learning outcomes

Knowledge Skills Responsibilities/autonomy

- To understand the main functionalities, components,
properties and control systems in circular / flat / sock /
Rashel / tricot knitting machines
- To state the operations peculiarities and differences
between the analysed type of machines
- To understand different manufacturing techniques and
knitting design structures
- To explore changing tension, yarn thicknesses and
colour
- To operate and exploit the latest functionalities of the
most spread knitting machines
- To apply different knitting techniques
- To use holding & short row knitting to develop three-
dimensional knit structures, volume, shapes, and
techniques
- To develop original aesthetics through application of 2
and 3 dimensional techniques
- To develop creative design outcomes through the
combination of materials and processes

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Introduction to knitting process. Structure of knitting fabric. Stitch types (4 hours)
The course starts with an introduction in the two basic principles of knitting - weft and warp knitting,
illustrated with examples. The knitting pattern structure and the different knitting fabric elements are
described. Stitch formation and various stitch types in warp and weft knitting are also presented. The
workflow for production of knitwear is presented and analyzed and each stage is considered in
detail.
Knitted fabric design (6 hours)
In the topic various knitted designs of the elementary knits and their derivatives are presented. The
knits are explained and demonstrated with graphical representation using software Warp Knitting
Pattern Editor and M1+ (Stoll, Germany). Design of knitted patterns for different fabric effects are
also considered.
Flat knitting machines (4 hours)
The topic covers the classification of all type knitting machines. The construction and mechanisms in
flat knitting machines like: knitting systems, yarn carriers, fabric tension, yarn tension, are described.
Interaction and control over and between the mechanisms are considered. Advantages and
disadvantages of different types of mechanisms are also presented.

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Circular knitting machines (2 hours)
The topic covers the construction and mechanisms in circular knitting machines with large diameter:
knitting systems, yarn carriers, control and tension of yarns, control system. The technologies for
fabric knitting and 3D knitting products by circular knitting machines are also presented.
Sock knitting machines (2 hours)
In the topic the construction and mechanisms in sock knitting machines: knitting systems, yarn
carriers, control and tension of yarns, control system, are presented. The technologies for 3D
knitting products are considered. The peculiarities in the sock constructions are explained.
Raschel and tricot knitting machines (2 hours)
The topic covers the construction and mechanisms in raschel and tricot knitting machines: guide
bars, fabric tension, control and tension of yarns, control system. The technologies for fabric and 3D
knitting products are presented.

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 TRAINING COURSE

Flat Knitting Machine programming for Knit Fabric and 2D

Shaped Fabric
Assoc. prof. Vesna Marija Potočić Matković, PhD
Bachelor’s, Master’s & PhD Degree Programs, Faculty of Textile Technology
University of Zagreb, CROATIA
Assist. Prof. Daniela Sofronova, PhD
Bachelor’s, Master’s & PhD Degree Program, Faculty of Power Engineering and Power Machines
Technical University of Sofia, BULGARIA

7
 MODULE “DESIGN AND PRODUCTION OF KNITWEAR”
Duration: 20 hours
Course objectives
Knitting is one of the most exciting textile technologies of creating products with outstanding characteristics, such as: knitting to shape, great flexibility in production, controlled
properties, and excellent formability. Knitting process has few important phases and one of them is the pattern design stage. In case of computer controlled flat knitting machines,
the patterns are developed on special pattern stations, with a specific programming language. The course will show in a practical way how to program flat knitting machines in
order to produce 2D shaped fabric.
Topics
- Knitted structures - Parameters and functions settings
- Step and procedures for knit programming - Pattern creation
- Graphical software for colour knits

Knowledge Skills Responsibilities/autonomy

- To identify basic knit constructions
- To understand characteristics and properties of
different knitted structures and the most suitable
applications for each one
- To get knowledge of the different steps needed to
machine programming for a new 2D fabric
- To explore changing tension, yarn thicknesses and
colour
- To get knowledge of graphical software main
functionalities and possibilities
- To relate knitting parameters and the mechanical
properties of the structures to define the better
design for the application purpose
- To set programs for knit fabrics manufacturing
accordingly to features, structures and colours
combinations
- To use graphical software to set knit structures, shaped
fabrics patterns, and coloured knit motifs
- To use Sintral program design: panel structure drawing,
yarn carrier allocation and knitting set up (i.e. carriage
speed, fabric density, fabric take-down)
- To develop original aesthetics through application of 2
dimensional techniques
- To develop creative design outcomes through the
combination of materials and processes
- To apply different manufacturing and assembly
technologies, grading details and identifying
manufacturing defects

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Methologies, process and approuches for developing a new knitted prototyping model.
Analysis of knitted structures (3 hours)
The course starts with methodologies for developing a new knitted prototyping model: how to pick a
structure, shape construction, material choosing, achieving the dimensions. The approaches in the
analysis of real knitted structures and their parameters are presented. Techniques for shaping
construction and dimension control are considered.
Knitwear programing techniques (10 hours)
In the topic various programming techniques with one of the most popular software Karl Mayer Stoll
(Germany) are presented: manual shaping and sizing; shape editors, modules, pattern software
intuitive futures; auto-create software; multicolor patterns (jacquard, intarsia, inverse plating, plating,
ikat and etc).

9
Approaches for 2D patterns creation (4 hours)
The topic covers the modern approaches for 2D pattern creation. The aim is to summarize the steps
in the programming process of 2D patterns by presenting examples.
Knitting process parameters programming (3 hours)
In the topic the different knitting parameters, controlling by the knitting machine, are considered.
Programming the machine controls in the software is presented. Optimizing the knitting process for
single pattern is also described. All steps of the programming process are shown with examples.

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 TRAINING COURSE

Flat Knitting Machine programming for 3D Knitwear

Assoc. prof. Vesna Marija Potočić Matković, PhD

Bachelor’s, Master’s & PhD Degree Programs, Faculty of Textile Technology
University of Zagreb, CROATIA
Assist. Prof. Daniela Sofronova, PhD
Bachelor’s, Master’s & PhD Degree Program, Faculty of Power Engineering and Power Machines
Technical University of Sofia, BULGARIA

11
 MODULE “DESIGN AND PRODUCTION OF KNITWEAR”
Course: Flat Knitting Machine programming for 3D Knitwear
Duration: 20 hours
Course objectives
3D knitting is a digital fabrication method that uses large flatbed knit machines to create complete, seamless garments in one piece, eliminating all post-production assembly,
opening the doors for new applications such as customisation, made to measure and on-demand production; which will make the manufacturing process more sustainable,
distributed and localized. This technological evolution requires the development of new design, systems and programming knowledge. The course will show in a practical way how
to program flat knitting machines in order to produce 3D knitwear.
Topics
- 3D knitting techniques and applications - Parameters and functions settings
- Steps and procedures for 3d knitting programming - 3D Patterns creation
- Design 3D knitwear using specific software

Knowledge Skills Responsibilities/autonomy

- To be aware of 3D knitting applicability and processes
- To apprehend different 3D architectures
- To recognize advantages and disadvantages of different
techniques and technologies in the manufacture of 3D
knitted garments
- To have an overview of the different methods used for
patterns creation for a given 3D geometry
- To combine machine and yarn typology for making a - To develop original aesthetics through application of 3
certain garment having specific characteristics dimensional techniques
- To apply pattern making methods in accordance with - To develop creative design outcomes through the
body anatomy an measurement combination of materials and processes
- To program 3D garment pattern design, grading details
- To implement all the different steps to create 3D
geometries: patching, course generation, loop
generation, 2D knit pattern generation
- To set accurate and uniform machine parameters for
the overall 3D geometry
- To use 3D simulation software to program the patterns

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Knitting techniques for 3D knitwear production. Applications of 3D knitting structure (6 hours)
The course starts with the knitting techniques used for 3D knitwear production: course shaping, wale
shaping, tubular knitting, changing yarn materials or structural parameters, combination of stitches.
Examples of 3D knitwear applications are presented.
Programing techniques for 3D Knitwear (4 hours)
In the topic various programming techniques and its application in the 3D products creation with one of
the most popular software Karl Mayer Stoll (Germany) are presented: manual shaping and sizing;
shape editors, modules, pattern software intuitive futures, auto-create software, multicolor 3D
patterning.
Approaches for 3D patterns creation (4 hours)
The topic covers the modern approaches for 3D pattern creation. The aim is to summarize the steps in
the programming process of 3D patterns by presenting examples.
Simulation of knitting process (6 hours)
Connectivity of the art drawing and the knitting process. Fabric view, stitch view and the benefits of it to
the process of the knitting products programing. Short demonstration of Karl Mayer Stoll's
"Knitelligence" process.

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THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION !

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CONTACTS
Coordinator:
Technical University of Sofia
Department of Textile Engineering

Project Manager of ICT-TEX:

Assoc. Prof. Angel Terziev, PhD
е-mail: aterziev@tu-sofia.bg

Web-site: ICT-TEX.eu

The information and views set out in this publication are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the official opinion of the European Union. Neither the European
Union institutions and bodies nor any person acting on their behalf may be held responsible for the use which may be made of the information contained therein. 15