DRESSMAKING

Dressmakers are indispensable in

society. All of us human beings have
to wear clothing to cover and protect
our bodies. People of different ages
and status express themselves
through the clothes they wear.
Demands of these are dictated with
the change of fashion and trends.
Dressmaking is an industry that helps very
much in the progress of one's nation. Every
person in the community wears dress, blouse,
pants, polo, skirt, t-shirt to cover his or her
body. Belongingness in the group is another
aspect why each person has to wear a dress,
polo or shirt, thus the need of garment
industries for more dressmakers or tailors
 Dressmakers are needed to
supply the demand of the populace
not only in the Philippines but
throughout the world. In this
Chapter, you will appreciate the
value of dressmakers in the lives of
individuals.
Lesson 1: Dressmaking Tools,
Materials and Equipment
What is dressmaking?

The dictionary defines this as the art of sewing clothes

and dresses like sewing a beautiful dress from a fabric. The
individual who sews clothing for women is commonly known
as dressmaker A dressmaker may also cater to the needs of
men depending on her training, but usually a tailor does the
job. Men and women have different body shapes that call for
different techniques in pattern drafting, fabric cutting,
designing and sewing. However, it is beneficial for a
dressmaker or tailor if he/she can sew clothes both for male
and female.
Sewing Tools and Equipment

The dressmaker needs quality tools and

equipment in sewing. Good performance is important
for long-lasting satisfaction of your customers, hence
selection of your sewing machine and sewing tools
are important. The correct tools and equipment will
make your work lighter and easier. These tools and
equipment are of different classifications and will be
discussed in the succeeding section.
Classification of Sewing
Tools and Materials
MEASURING TOOLS

Measuring tape-This is also commonly known as tapeline. It is used to take

body measurement and made of non-stretchable strip. It has two calibrated
sides: one side measures 150 centimeters, and the other side is 60 inches.

Sewing gauge- It is used to measure small hem areas and short distances
such as hem folds, searn allowance, buttonholes, seams and tucks. This is a
six-inch ruler made of aluminum or stiff cardboard provided with a slider for
easy movement in taking the body measurement.

Ruler-This is a common measuring device used by everyone including the

dressmaker. It has a 12-inch length and made of wood or plastic. It is used to
connect two points in connecting two lines specifically in drafting pattern.
 Meter stick or yard stick -This is used to measure cloth or fabric by meter
or yard, marked off in centimeters and millimeters and usually made of wood
or steel.

DRAFTING TOOLS
L-square-This is an aluminum ruler with 90 degrees angle used in drawing
perpendicular lines and to measure off parallel lines. Used to construct lines
by connecting its two arms perpendicularly. The long arm has breakdown
measurements of 1- 24; 1-12; 1-6, 1-3, and 2-3 while the short arm has
breakdown measurements of 1-32: 1-16; 1-8; 1-4 and 1-2

French curve-This is used to shape the neckline armholes and collars during
the drafting of pattern or cutting the fabric ready for sewing.
 Hip curve- As the name suggests, it is a curve stick used to form the
hipline and other areas of the garments which has curve section or
parts. This is made of metal with calibration on both sides.

CUTTING TOOLS
1.Shears-These are used for cutting fabric, paper and materials. There are different kinds of
shears for specific purpose.

Types of shears:

a. Cutting shears - are used for cutting fabrics. Their blades are
straight and usually 7-12 inches long and usually made of
stainless steel.
b. Pinking shears -used to cut the edge of seam allowance of fabric
that does not ravel due to its zigzag edge. This can also be used in
cutting decorative materials

c. Scalloping shears - used to cut parts of garments with a series of

uniform scallops as it has scallop blades.

2. Scissors-These are used for cutting hanging threads, excess fabrics

coming out from seam. This is also the type used to trim hair and
other purposes. Some scissors are made of a combination of plastic
and metal; others are all metal or stainless steel material.
3.Buttonhole scissors- This is a special kind of
scissors used for making or cutting buttonholes. The
blades have square shape found at the joint of
scisssors to control the cutting the fabric or cloth off
the buttonhole area.

4.Embroidery scissors- These are used in

embroidery work in cutting fine delicate cloth
and thread. They are sharp pointed scissors
usually 4-5 inches long.

5.Seam ripper-This is used in cutting off stitches of a

seam. During the ripping process, extra care must be
taken to prevent the cloth from being damaged.
Marking Tools

1. Tailor's chalk- This is used to mark the fabric and pattern

paper. This is available in different colors and is made of hard
chalk Markings on the fabric can be removed by brushing.

2. Tracing wheel- It is used to trace the lines in the pattern to

penetrate to the fabric. Its serrated edge produces the dots on
the fabric and the smooth edge the solid line.

3. Dressmaker's carbon paper.-This is specially waxed carbon

paper fitted underneath the fabric so the tracing wheel's
marking will be transferred to the fabric. Different brands are
available in the market with different instructions.
 Sewing Aids
1. Pin. This is used to fasten or hold two or three fabrics or
materials together. There are two kinds of pins, one with colored
rounded head for easy handling and the other one is with a small
steel head.

2. Pin cushion. This is a small-size cushion used to hold pins and

needles for safekeeping. Scattering on the floor of needles is a
risk for dressmakers and other workers should be avoided.

3. Hand needles. These are used for temporary stitches.

hemming, and other hand sewing purposes. There are different
sizes available in the market to suit the kind of fabric to be sewn.

4. Thimble. This is a small cup used to protect the finger from

being pricked by the needle during sewing it is placed on the tip
of the middle finger which is the usual finger that pushes the
needle while hand sewing
5. Threader. This is used to insert thread to the needle eye. It has
a diamond shaped wire attached to a handle made of thin
material made of a thin plate aluminum

Body Measurements for Men and Women Apparels

1. Shoulder-Position the end of the tape measure on the shoulder tip passing
the nape across the other shoulder tip.

2. Length of shirt - This is taken from the nape down to the desired length

3. Bust-Place the tape measure around the fullest part of the bust inserting two
fingers in it.

4. Waist Place the tape measure around the fullest part of the waist

5. Hip-Position the tape measure in line and around the fullest par of the hips.
.
6. Chest - Starting from the shoulder point, measure 4" downward and put the
tape measure around the chest

7. Bust height-measure from the shoulder base neck down to the bust point

8. Bust distance - taken from one bust point to another bust point

9. Length of sleeve - Measure from shoulder tip point to the desired length.

10. Short sleeve circumference/girth - From the measured short sleeve length,
place the tape measure around the arms with the desired circumference.

11. Full bodice length - This is the measure from the shoulder base neck to the
waistline.
 Points to Remember in Taking Body Measurements
Taking accurately the body measurements depends largely on the
competence of the dressmaker or tailor in doing the job. The
dressmaker has to keep a Personal Measurement Record (PMR) to
register the measurements of the client. The record has to be kept for
reference purposes when the client returns the next time around.

Before taking the body measurements of the client, it is advisable

to have an assistant who will take note or record the measurement
while you, as dressmaker, do the task. The following are important
guides:
1. Request the client politely to stand straight while taking the body
measurements Things inside the pockets like wallet, cellphone and
handkerchiefs have to be removed to be able to get the accurate
measurements. As much as possible, the client wears a well-fitted garment to
get a good result of the sewn fabric.

2. Use a soft flexible brand of tape measure as this will lay flat on the part of the
body to be measured.

3. Tie a string around the waistline of the client. This will be your point of
reference while taking the measurements.

4. You can start taking measurements either vertical or horizontal.

5. When measuring lengths, allow the tape measure to hang freely for accurate
measurements.
 An example format for the PMR of your client is given as your guide.

Personal Measurement Record

Name: ______________________________________ Date:___________________

Address:_____________________________________________________________
Telephone No. _______________________________ Mobile No._______________

PAJAMA
1. Length/Outside length _________________________
2. Waist _______________________________________
3. Hip _________________________________________
4. Crotch/ Rise __________________________________
5. Bottom ______________________________________

SHIRT
1. Shoulder _____________________________________
2. Length of shirt ________________________________
3. Bust _________________________________________
4. Chest ________________________________________
5. Waist ________________________________________
6. Hip __________________________________________
7. Bus height (girl) ________________________________
8. Bus distance (girl) _______________________________
9. Length of sleeve (short) ___________________________
10. Short sleeve cir. or girth __________________________
11. Full bodice length ________________________________
Lesson 2: Elements and
Principles of Design in
Dressmaking
Introduction

People wear clothes not only to protect their body from extreme heat and cold
but also to emphasize the good points of their bodies. It is also undeniable that clothes
are worn to hide some of the imperfections of our body characteristics. The elements of
design in fashion and the primary principles of design are important body of knowledge
that a dressmaker or tailor should acquire.

Elements of Design

1. Line- This is the very basic and simplest element of design. There are two types of
lines referred to:

•Outline-refers to the outer edge of the design

•Style line-refers to the lines that divide up the space inside of the outline. Style lines
are created through several things like belts, ruffles, seams, a color line, or a pocket.
 Our eyes are attracted to the direction of the line of the garments worn by the individual. In
choosing fabric for a dress, a slim figured-lady may opt for big horizontal stripes to look
bigger, while the chubbier ones would choose the finer stripes to appear slimmer.

In general, vertical lines help emphasize the height of the individual while the horizontal
lines give impression of a lighter or heavier figure.

2. Form/Shape - Form refers to the shape and structure or the entire outline of the garment.
This is commonly known as silhouette which is the most obvious visual element of a garment.
The function of silhouette is to complement the shape of the body. In some instances,
exaggeration is often made to create an effect to emphasize a certain part of the body to go
along with the trend.

In fashion design, the common shapes seen are round, square, triangle, rectangle and
oblong.

Shape of the face is one factor considered in choosing the neckline of a dress. All kinds of
necklines are fit for an oval-shaped face. On the other hand, the square-shaped face and the
long narrow triangle-shaped face are appropriate for U-necklines.
3. Texture - This refers to the surface quality of an item like fabric. How it feels when
touched whether it is coarse, fine, smooth, wrinkled, sleek, glossy, and slippery would
contribute to the design of the dress. Textures as well as lines may create illusions, so it
is important that one must choose textures for clothes that will harmonize with the over-
all design of the dress.
You may also consider these points in choosing fabrics:

•A rough bulky fabric tends to increase the size of a design while the smooth one
decreases it.
•A soft wool will give a quite different effect from the gloss and sheen of the satin of an
evening dress.

4. Color - This is the most important element of design. Color of the dress one wears
attracts the attention of people around him/her. It has an enormous effect on how one
feels. Everyone always consider his/her favorite color in buying fabric for a garment.
Wearing a dress of his/her favorite color makes him/her feel good

Some points to consider in choosing the color of the fabric:

•Black, dark tones or deep-gray colors - The figure will appear smaller or slimmer than
bright or light colors

•Plain color-It makes the figure looks slimmer than using a combination of contrasting colors.

•Large designs in prints, plaids, or stripes - It is not advisable for one with a very small or
slim figure.

Principles of Design:

Good outfit should consider combination of elements of design and the principles of design
which are proportion, balance, harmony, emphasis and rhythm.
1. Proportion-This refers to the relationship of one part of the designs to the whole design.
The feeling of unity is present when all parts such as the size, numbers, or amounts relate well
with one another. To illustrate this, when a human form is drawn, the size of the head must be
in proportion in comparison to the rest of the body.

In choosing fabric for a small body, there is proportion if small prints is chosen over bigger
prints. Likewise, elements such as pocket, collar, placket and hemline are designed in such a
way that everything is proportionate to one another
2. Balance-This refers to two types of balance:
•Symmetrical balance - when the outfit is divided right down at the middle with both sides
exactly the same.

•Asymmetrical balance - is the opposite of symmetrical balance thus if the outfit is divided right
down the middle and both sides are not the same, this is asymmetrical Most of the fashion
designers apply this in formal clothing like evening gowns because it appears dramatic and eye-
catching.

3. Harmony. It is the unity of all the principles, the overall look of a garment which creates a
sense of completeness. A good combination of color, size, shapes, lines and texture which goes
along well with another is a factor in harmony of a garment

4. Emphasis - This refers to the center of interest of a garment. An evening gown with a huge
flower or a bow on it is a good example. The huge flower or bow is considered the prominent
element which is emphasized on the gown and grabs the attention of the onlooker It is something
that stands out from the rest of the elements that are used in the gown
5. Rhythm -This is the smooth flow and repeated use of lines texture, color shape,
and pattern. This creates a pattern that the eyes can follow throughout the design
Rhythm is detected through the following

a. Repetition - This is achieved by regular recurrence of the motifs of design,

shapes, buttons and pleats.
b. Progression -This is also termed as gradation which means the gradual increase
or decrease of the same elements of design.
c. Transition- This is created when the eye is directed from one element to another.
An example is when a curve line leads the eye to an angle.

d. Radiation -This is created when the eye is directed to different directions.

e. Continuous line movement - This type of rhythm is made when the eye moves in
continuous lines such as flowing lines of trims, bands of color, designs of fabrics.
 These principles of design if used in a smart way. can improve the
appearance or look of the individual. To cite an example, a petite
lady has to choose garments which are proportionate to her weight
and height. Garments which are loose should be avoided since this
will make her look unfavorable.
Rather she needs to choose designs or patterns that will give a
balance to her upper and lower body. Likewise, a woman with a
broad shoulder should not wear garments that would emphasize her
shoulder. A heavy embroidered dress will make her appear heavier.
It is advisable that she wears garment with dark colors or tiny prints
to redirect the attention from her upper body.
Occupational Health and Safety
The garments or textiles industry has many hazards and risks that may cause injury to
workers. The dust from the fabrics being inhaled by the dressmaker is only one of the several
hazards and risks that may affect the health of the dressmaker. Whether you are in the
industry or in your own home sewing studio, utmost care should be taken to protect the
health of every worker in the industry and the family members at home. To prevent injuries or
general health issues of everyone, here are some points that should be considered

1. Equipment storage. -Tools and equipment should be kept safe all the time. Secure
drawers, cupboard sections, boxes or any items that are hazardous to everyone

Scissors rotary cutters, needles, safety pins and other sharp items should be kept and
locked cabinets, especially if there are kids around. See to it that your shears used for cutting
fabrics are not used in cutting anything else except textile matenals. Other pair of scissors
must be used in cutting paper.
 Sharp needles and pins must be disposed of properly. Bottles with cover may be used to
deposit broken needles and crocked pins must be kept far from reach of children

2. Sewing area.- The sewing space has to be organized in such a manner that there is freedom
in moving around the place. Hanging things from the walls and shelves should be avoided to
prevent such from falling over and damage or injure someone.

At the end of the day's work, the place must be kept clean and tidy A general housekeeping
is necessary before the workers leave the sewing area. Pack away tools and materials and keep
them in their places the next day, it is easy to locate or pick them up

Eating and drinking in the sewing area should be avoided to prevent liquid to spill over the
sewing machines and the fabrics. It is dangerous if liquid spills over machine and electrical cords.
This may cause fire accident. Electrical cords and plugs must be set up away from the floor, they
must be under the tables, around the comers, and in appropriate location. The floor where
workers walk to and fro must be free from electrical plugs, cords and adapters which pose
dangers to everyone.
3. Personal safety-. Sewing may cause pains or injuries to your body after long hours of
bending and setting down. Back pain, headache, fatigue, restrained eyesight and similar injuries
can be prevented by considering the following sewing rules:

•Ergonomics.- Poor workplace design, awkward body mechanics or postures, repetitive

movements, and other ergonomic hazards contribute to the rising number of cumulative trauma
disorders (CTD) CTD affect hands, wrist, elbows, arms, shoulders, the lower back, and the
cervical spine area Structures involved include tendons, muscles, bones, nerves, and blood
vessels. Strategies for reduction of hazards that contribute to CTD must be developed thru a
well-written ergonomic plan of the company.

Examples are working tables at a good level and sewing machines have adjustable height.

•Clothing & Hair. Dressmakers should consider some of these important rules

a.Avoid loose or hanging accessories. Wear something comfortable, semi-fitted to the body
b.Remove everything that can get caught into the machinery.
c.Tie long hair securely at the back. Closed shoes should always be worn when sewing and
cutting.
•Pins- This is very important to a dressmaker but extra care must be considered to
avoid damage. Always be aware that you are using pins. Never put them in your
mouth. A wrist pin cushion is safe to use and remove immediately after working with
pins.

Hazards may be encountered when using the sewing machine such as:

•Cuts and injuries from sharp edges like scissors, blades, knife and pins
•Finger injuries while sewing
•Improper lifting procedures of heavy objects
•Poor posture which may cause back injury
•Eye strain caused from poor lighting

Safety Operating Procedure in Using the Sewing Machine

The aforementioned hazards could be prevented by the following:

1. Permission to use the sewing machine must be given by the teacher,

2. Use of machine should be prohibited if you have no proper training and instruction on its safe
use and operation.

3. Has read and understood the instruction sheet with complete safety test with 100% score

Pre-operational Safety
1. Before working with the sewing machine, check all parts specially its cord in good working
condition.
2. Adjustments and settings must be in placed before starting any sewing operation 3. Clean the
workplace, free of obstacles, rubbish and other similar obstruction

Sewing Machine Safety Operating Procedure

1. See to it that all other persons who are not part of the workforce are away from the sewing
area or workplace.
2. The machine must be operated by one person only at a time.
3. When someone is sewing, another person is prohibited to touch the machine in operation.
4. Loose clothing, especially with long sleeves and neck ties should not be worn while sewing
5. When changing presser foot and needle, and making some machine adjustments, power
should be switched off.
6. Racing the sewing machine at high speed is prohibited.

7. Extra care must be observed not to run machine over pins and small objects.

8. See to it that the take-up lever is in upper position before

pulling out fabrics the fabric and cutting threads.

9. Fabrics should not be pushed while sewing; the machine will do the work with
our hands guiding the fabric.
THANK YOU!