StellaBD

学习 (10.12.2022-15.12.2022)
Name: MD AMINUR HAQUE
Department: PD Sample
ID: 2208005
 Content
01 Counter molding

Stella BD 02
Page …………………………………………………………………………. 4-5

Toe molding

Page …………………………………………………………………………. 6

03 Last input inside upper

Page …………………………………………………………………………. 7-8

04 Toe lasting

Page …………………………………………………………………………. 9-10

05 Side lasting

Page …………………………………………………………………………. 11

06 Heel lasting

Page …………………………………………………………………………. 12

07 Outsole marking

Page …………………………………………………………………………. 13
 Counter molding

At first we heat the upper counter on heat mold. That’s how the upper would look while heating.

1st 3rd
The temperature on the heat mold is 955, the
actual temperature on the machine is 140Heating
the counter of the upper makes the upper
counter become soft. It becomes easier to give
shape.

By pressing two buttons I have started heating

2nd
the upper counter.
 Counter molding

After heating the upper I am putting the upper on After putting the upper on the cold mold the

1st 2nd
the cold mold. On the cold mold the temperature upper will look like this.
is according to SOP is -5But the actual
temperature on the cold mold is -10 The reason
behind doing this is to the cold mold helps to
give the shape and lock the shape of the
counter.
 Toe molding

At first we heat the upper vamp on the toe heat

machine. Toe heat machine temperature is 90 But Toe mold gives shape to the upper. As the toe

1st 3rd
machine given temperature is 120. Heating the mold is cold it helps to hold the shape of the
upper toe will make the toe puff become soft and heated material.
material to be soft as well. It makes the upper to be
shaped without damaging. After heating the upper
toe, I am putting it on the Toe molding vamp mold. .
Toe mold cold temperature is -5But on the machine
it is given -10.

2nd After setting up the allowance I press the Toe

mold pressure paddle to pressure the upper toe
on the toe mold to give it shape.
 Last input inside upper

At first we heat the upper for make the upper Then using the Xuan we insert the heel of the

1st 3rd
material to be soft so that it gets easier to insert last inside the upper heel.
the last inside the upper. The temperature on the
steam machine is 120

Then after setting the last on the last input stand

2nd
we insert the last toe inside the upper. Then pull
it very tightly so that there is no wrinkle gets on
the upper.
 Last input inside upper

After inserting the last inside the upper I am

1st
After inserting the last inside the upper it will

2nd
hitting the edges of the stable stiches. So that it look like this.
stays even on the edges and it gets easier to
marking the upper before outsole attach.
 Toe lasting
After doing the toe molding we have to hold the
1st
last and carefully setup the upper so that we can
proceed to toe lasting.
After setting the last inside upper we place it on
2nd
the toe lasting machine. At first we place the toe
front and pinch it with the top pin charge. And to
do that we need to press the toe lasting paddle
one time.
After holding the front of the toe with top pin
3rd
charge then we press the toe lasting paddle
again to hold the top sides of the toe upper and
we keep holding the paddle.
After checking the sides are even, we lift our
4th
foot from the paddle to hold each sides with pin
charge. And the melted glue starts injecting glue
on the insole. The glue temperature is around
230-240.
 Toe lasting
After holding the upper with all the pin charges
1st
we need to check the sides if is even on every
sides or not. If it is not even then we need to
adjust it.
When all the sides are evenly held we press the
2nd
paddle 3rd time. And during this time the wiper
blade comes from the both sides and flattens the
stables with the glued insole. Then a pressure
hammer puts 40KGs pressure on the upper
vamp so that the insole and the upper sticks
strongly with one another.
 Side lasting

Shoe side lasting standard is very important to While doing it we need to make sure the upper

1st 3rd
follow while doing the side lasting. Following the are followed according to the marking on the
standard helps us to avoid mistakes while doing last. Otherwise it might make the upper be not
this process. even on both sides.

2nd I was doing the side lasting and was following

the standard.
 Heel lasting

Before doing the heel lasting we have to heat the At first we press the heel lasting paddle once to

1st 3rd
heel of the upper so that it can easily shaped. So proceed and the last holder will move upward
we heat this in the heating machine. towards the spring point.

After heating the upper we place the upper on Once it touches the spring point heel lasting

2nd 4th
the last holding hook. It looks like this. vamp will hold the upper on both sides.

If all the sides are even of the heel we will press

5th
the heel lasting paddle second time to use wiper
blade wipe the heel stable and make it blend
with the insole.
 Outsole marking

While marking we have to set the last first then Here I am using the machine to mark the

1st 3rd
set the upper over it on the marking machine. material before roughing process.
The marking machine pressure is 0.8 - 2 kgs.
While marking we usually use chalk or silver
pen. But it depends on the material. If the
material is fabric we use chalk but if the material
is leather we use silver pen. But for some leather
we use chalk. The upper would look something like this after

2nd 4th
marking.
This upper’s material is fabric. So I am marking
the lines with the chalk.
Thank You
谢谢