Quarter IV – Module 3

STORE AND
STOCKPILE
MATERIALS KENNEDY B. SADORRA JHS Teacher III 1
Introduction
• Stockpiling can result in harm to human health and
environment, for example through stockpile files
and exposure of a community to smoke or dust, as
well as creating a financial liability that can be
passed onto the community and governments if a
site is abandoned.

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Introduction
• Environment Protection Act 1993, Sec. 25 is a
general environmental duty (GED) for everyone to
take all reasonable and practicable measures to
prevent or minimize environmental harm.
• Storage or stockpiling should be temporary and
undertaken only in suitable circumstances for
genuine and beneficial purposes.

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TIPS ON STORING PESTICIDES, FERTILIZER
AND SEEDS

• Here are some on the best way to prepare nursery

and garden supplies for winter so
they’ll be ready for use when spring rolls around.

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1. How to store garden pesticides during
winter season?
• a. Keep the pesticides in their original
containers and store them in a cool, dry
location out of the reach of children and
pets, preferably in a locked cabinet.

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• b. Do not allow granular materials to get wet or
liquid products to freeze. Moisture may
cause granular products to cake. Freezing of
liquid pesticides may reduce their
effectiveness. Freezing temperatures also may
cause some containers to break.

• c. See the product label for specific storage

recommendations.

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2. What is the best way to store the
fertilizer?
• a. Store lawn and garden fertilizers in their
original bags or containers to know the
content and analysis of the product next season.
Store granular fertilizers in a dry
location. Granular products absorb moisture from
the air, causing them to cake like
cement.
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• b. An excellent way to store opened bags of lawn
and garden fertilizers is to place the
bags in large containers, such as five-gallon
buckets, and cover with tight-sealing
lids.

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3. What is the best way to store flower
and vegetable seeds?
• a. If stored properly, the seeds of many
vegetables and flowers will remain viable (alive)
for two to three years. Ideal storage conditions
are cool and dry. It’s generally best to keep the
seeds in their original packets. Fold over the ends
of opened seed packets, then place the surplus
seeds in a tightly sealed jar or plastic lidded
coffee can.
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• b. Place one to two tablespoons of powdered
milk in a small envelope and place the envelope
in the container. The powdered milk will absorb
the moisture from the air inside the container and
keep the seeds dry. Place the tightly sealed
container in the refrigerator or other cool
location.

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4. How should I prepare my garden tools
for the winter season?
• a. Proper care of garden tools and equipment
prolongs their lifetime, prevents costly repairs
and improves their performance. In fall, remove
caked-on soil from shovels, spades, hoes and
rakes with a wire brush or stiff putty knife. Wash
the tools with a strong stream of water, then dry.
Sharpen the blades of hoes, shovels and spades.
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• b. Wipe the metal surfaces with an oily rag or
spray with WD-40. Sand rough wooden handles,
then wipe with linseed oil to prevent drying and
cracking. Hang or store the tools in a dry
location.

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• c. Drain water from garden hoses. To prevent
kinking, store hoses on reels or coil and
place on a flat surface.

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TIPS FOR STORING SEEDS SAVED
FROM YOUR OWN GARDEN
• You've harvested your summer seeds and now
it's time to store them to help you get a jump-
start on next season — but storing them
improperly could make your dreams of a
bountiful garden fall flat. Follow our easy
guide to storing your saved seeds that will
save you time and money and give you your
best harvest yet.

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1. Dry the seeds.
• If you’re gathering and saving seeds from your
own plants, spread the seeds on newspaper and
let them air-dry for about a week. Write seed
names on the newspaper so there’s no mix-up.
Pack the air-dried seeds in small paper packets or
envelopes and label with the plant name and
other pertinent information.

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• Remember, if you want to save your own seeds,
you’ll need to plant open-pollinated varieties.
They’ll come back true; hybrids won’t.

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• You can also dry saved seeds on paper towels.
They’ll stick to the towels when dry,
so roll them up right in the towel to store them.
When you’re ready to plant, just tear off bits
of the towel, one seed at a time, and plant seed
and towel right in the soil.

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2. Stack them somewhere airtight.
• Put the packets inside plastic food storage bags,
Mason jars with tight-fitting lids, or glass
canisters with gasketed lids.

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• To keep seeds dry, wrap two heaping tablespoons
of powdered milk in four layers of facial tissue,
then put the milk packet inside the storage
container with the seed packets. You can also add
a packet of silica gel in with the seeds. Replace
every six months.

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3. Put the containers in a dry and cool
place.
• Humidity and warmth shorten a seed’s shelf life,
so the refrigerator is generally the
best place to store seeds, but keep them far away
from the freezer.

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4. Toss any seeds pass their prime.
• Store each year’s seeds together and date them.
Because most seeds remain viable about three
years, you’ll know at a glance which container
still has planting potential.

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5. Prepare for planting.
• When you’re ready to plant, remove the
containers from the refrigerator and keep
them closed until the seeds warm to room
temperature. Otherwise, moisture in the air
will condense on the seeds, causing them to
clump together.

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6. Expect a few duds.
• Even if you’re organized, methodical, and careful
about storing seeds, accept the fact that some
seeds just won’t germinate the following year.
Home gardeners will find that stored sweet corn
and parsnip seeds in particular have low
germination rates, and other seeds will only
remain viable for a year or two.

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SUMMATIVE EVALUATION

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