http://www.fddiindia.

com/

Introduction to Design
and Footwear Testing
Ramesh sahoo
Senior faculty & HOD Footwear
Footwear Design & Development Institute
( FDDI ), Kolkata
Details

Senior faculty & HOD

Footwear
Ramesh sahoo

Contact
FDDI
P Footwear Design &
Image Development Institute
( FDDI ), Kolkata
F
E

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Agenda

Design
History of Footwear
Footwear
Anatomy of the Shoe
Footwear size chart
Footwear Testing

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Design

1 4
Introduction

Footwear has evolved from a mere necessity and comfort to a chic style
statement in today's ultra fashion-conscious world. Everything from flats,
sandals and stilettos to boots and sportswear rule the roost.
In fact, what we wear on our feet matters as much as the clothes we adorn!
With the burgeoning demand for fresh designs and interesting concepts, the
time is ripe to put one's best ‘foot' forward and make forays into the field of
footwear design. Another attractive factor is that India is emerging as the
leading footwear destination of the world with numerous global footwear
brands clamoring to enter the market. In fact, India is the second leading
country (after China) in footwear production in the world.

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Nature of work

Footwear designing begins with a plan to sketch patterns and designs in scale
drawings (either paper sketches by hand or on computer-aided software or a
mix of both).
Then it moves to creating sample prototypes and refining the same for both
functionality and aesthetics. It can be in leather, canvas, wood, plastic or jute
with embroidery, beads, metals or what have you.
Once approved, the real work starts – converting the conceptualized design into
actual footwear for wearing while assuring that they are both easy to wear and
do not harm the feet. Designers are usually involved in this production stage at
some level or the other. It may even involve working hands-on with complex
machinery as well as solvents, glues and dyes.

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Nature of work (Continued)

Footwear designing has been rated as the most technical of all design careers.
Precision is the key – the piece should fit well as there is no scope for
alterations. Safety, comfort and quality standards are equally vital. Designing
footwear is not merely about aesthetics - one cannot concentrate only on colour
and design of footwear, its fit, size, comfort, Look and functionality is most
important.”
Therefore, the creations should be attractive, comfortable, competitive in price
and durable all at once!

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Personal prerequisites

Footwear designing is an immensely creative field and demands ingenuity and

desire to experiment and also a practical bent. An aesthetic flair and eye for
detail goes without saying considering the obligatory colour, balance, line and
other design principles. Good drawing skills are also essential. Aspirants should
also possess the foresight to both envisage and adapt to upcoming industry
trends.

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Work scenarios

Being a vast industry, footwear design offers a wide range of bright employment
opportunities in technical, designing and management areas. Different job titles
include Footwear Designer, Product Developer, Product Development Manager,
Quality Controller, Footwear Technologist, Merchandiser, Marketing Executive,
Planning Executive, Production executive and also Trend Analyst.
Graduates from top institutes like FDDI are quickly lapped up by international
players and global brand houses. Some choose to go the independent route and
set up their own design studio crafting exclusive pieces for boutiques, fashion
shows or even personalized to individual clients.
With the growing demand for choice footwear what is stopping you
from designing smart and trendy pieces that everybody will want to
wear.

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Skills Needed to Become a Shoe Designer

An eye for aesthetic detail is essential to become a shoe designer because these
professionals consider color, balance, line and other design principles. A flair
for fashion and foresight regarding upcoming industry trends are also
important qualities. Shoe designers usually integrate paper-based sketches with
CAD/CAM software, which requires that they have the ability to sketch. Even if
they don't physically create prototypes, knowledge of how to construct shoes is
important for communication purposes. In addition to creative talent, good
communication skills are vital for success.

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What Footwear Designers to Learn

• Identify trends in color, materials, styling, and constructions.

• Utilize a historical perspective.
• Develop coherent footwear collections suitable for various domestic and
global markets.
• Understand footwear business practices, from spec sheets and sourcing
strategies to business plans and marketing.
• Understand all aspects of footwear design and construction.
• Express creativity while applying technical skill

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7 Steps How to Become a Shoe Designer

A shoe designer is a type of fashion designer who specializes in creating the

boots and shoes customers will hopefully go to the store or Internet to purchase.
However, before entering the career fashion design field, an individual must
know how to become a shoe designer.
1 2 3 4 5 6

1. Choose an area of shoe Designing Interest

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2. Start Practicing the simple skills & Qualities
needed for Footwear Designing
3. Enter into an accredited graduate Program
4. Transfer to a design school or University with a
Footwear design major
5. Obtain a shoe Design apprenticeship or
internship
6. Start out as Assistant
7. Finally- Shoe Designer.

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Designing Process

Concept plan design Develop

Creative Design

Market Research

Merchants
Concept Definition Sourcing
Designers
Artists Technical
Designers
Product Design

Line Plan Development

Presentation Materials

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Designing Process (Continued )

Market Research
Collect ideas and physical samples from multiple sources to be used in concept
development.
Seasonal Concept Definition
Defining and communicating key trends (color, fabric, silhouette, mood) that
will drive the look and feel of seasonal line.
Product Design and Development
Define candidate designs by developing and analyzing many ideas, and viewing
alternatives using art programs to evaluate prototypes’ characteristics such as
styling, performance, and aesthetics.
Artwork Design
Designing and managing visual components that are part of a product. Artwork
can include prints, logos, hangtags, screen prints, embroidery, appliqués, etc.

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Designing Process (Continued )

Line Planning
Manage the line plan process for selection and final approval of the a group of
related products that will be merchandised together. All samples, presentation
materials, concepts, colors, and initial costs should be available for decision
making.
Many changes are made in the development of the line plan and it is critical to
follow up and communicate all revisions to ensure that store deliveries for the
season will be met.
Presentation Materials
Provide product details to Marketing for the publication of promotional
materials, such as sales collateral, brochures, and catalogs. Work with
packaging and label designers on requirements for product brand identity.
Manage the modification of the product marketing deliverables as part of the
engineering change process.

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Design Roles and Challenges

Design Roles
• VP of Design
• Divisional Design Manager
• Designer, Assistant Designer
• Brand Designer
• Artists & Colorists
• Design or Sourcing Coordinator
Design Challenges
• Speed to Market, stay ahead of competition
• Improve lead times, need presentation materials and samples fast
• Many revisions to products during development, need to communicate and track
• Design teams travel and necessary decisions are put on hold
• Better designs need historical sales and performance data, hard to get this in time

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History of Footwear

2 17
Introduction

• In the Spanish cave drawing, we saw that more than 15000 years ago
human learnt how to use animal skin as a footwear.
• Also 5000 years ago, Human used leather as a foot cover.
- Now-a-days We are wearing sandals which is the oldest
crafted footwear
- Other types of footwear ( which has pristine influence)
◦ Moccasins.
◦ Cuban heel
◦ Platform soles
◦ Poulaine
◦ Etc

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Construction

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Construction

• Over one hundred operations go into the construction of a shoe. The first
and most important of these is the creation of the last. The last is a hand-
carved wood or moulded plastic replica of the human foot. The last
determines the contour of the arch and how evenly the wearer’s weight will
be distributed throughout the foot. A different last is required for each shoe
style and size to be produced.

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High renaissance

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High renaissance

• Men Shoe
- The poulaine, the shoe with long pointed toes of the previous period
had fallen out of fashion. It is possible that the end of the poulaine was
foretold by episodes such as the death of Duke Leopold III of Austria. It
is said that he died because his long pointed shoes impeded him from
escaping his assassins. Whether the story has any truth, it is safe to
assume that the exaggerated toes of the poulaine became clumsy and
inconvenient for most tasks, and would eventually give way to a more
reasonable style.
- buskins : Calf length boots which laced up the front, resembling a laced
half boot.

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High renaissance (Continued)

• Women Shoe
- Patten
◦ The sole was wooden, with a leather vamp that tied over the foot with
latchets. For the wealthy, it was fashionable to have a matching shoe
and patten. They were fashionable during the gothic period, but
continued to be worn during later periods as a necessity.
- Chopine
◦ A shoe with a raised sole, worn first by the courtesans of Venice
during the Renaissance and quickly spreading to the rest of Europe.
They were worn over a slipper shoe, giving height to the wearer.
Chopines were made of wood, and reached heights of up to 30 inches.

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Mannerist renaissance

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Mannerist renaissance

• Men shoe
- Escaffignons : Flat, light shoes which were slashed at the top. Also
known as eschapins.
- Galosh : 1) an overshoe 2) an extension of the vamp wings seamed at
the back.
• Women shoe
- The shoes were similar to men’s, with less exaggeration in the width of
the toe. A low cut slipper, sometimes with a strap across the instep was
popular in pastel shades. The women’s shoes were slashed like the men’s
revealing a colored taffeta lining.

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After renaissance

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Renaissance shoes were much more narrow. They had left and right shoes. They also
had heels to make men taller. The most popular shoe lace system comes from Balmoral
Castle in Scotland. It is still used today.

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In the 20th century

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In the 20th century

• In the mid-20th Century, advances in rubber, plastics, synthetic cloth, and

industrial adhesives have allowed manufacturers to create shoes that stray
considerably from traditional crafting techniques. Leather, which had been
the primary material in earlier styles, has remained standard in expensive
dress shoes, but athletic shoes often have little or no real leather. Soles,
which were once laboriously hand-stitched on, are now more often machine
stitched or simply glued on. Many of these newer materials, such as rubber
and plastics, have made shoes less biodegradable. It is estimated that most
mass-produced shoes require 1000 years to degrade in a landfill. In the late
2000s, some shoemakers picked up on the issue and began to produce shoes
made entirely from degradable materials, such as the Nike Considered.

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In the 20th century (Continued)

• In 2007, the global shoe industry had an overall market of $107.4 billion, in
terms of revenue, and is expected to grow to $122.9 billion by the end of
2012. Shoe manufacturers in the People's Republic of China account for 63%
of production, 40.5% of global exports and 55% of industry revenue.
However, many manufacturers in Europe dominate the higher-priced,
higher value-added end of the market.

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20th century: Shoe

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20th century: Shoe

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Reference
1. Bata Shoe Museum. All About Shoes, Bata Limited, Toronto, 1994.
2. Batterberry, Michael & Ariane. Fashion The Mirror of History, Greenwin House, New York, 1982.
3. Blum, Stella ed. Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper’s Bazar 1867-1898, Dover
Publications, Inc, New York, 1974.
4. Bordoli, Ernest. Footwear Down the Ages, Northampton, 1934.
5. Boucher, Francois. 20,000 Years of Fashion, Henry N. Abrams Inc, New York, 1983.
6. Bredon, Juliet & Mitrophanow, Igor. The Moon Year A Record of Chinese Customs and Festivals,
Paragon Book Reprint Corp., New York, 1966. (reprinted from 1927 edition)
7. Brooke, Iris. A History of English Footwear, St. Giles Publishing Co. Ltd., London, 1949.
8. Brooke, Iris. Footwear A Short History of European and American Shoes, Theatre Arts Books, New
York, 1971.
9. Calasibetta, Charlotte. Fairchild’s Dictionary of Fashion, Fairchild Publications Inc., New York,
1975.
10.Contini, Mila. Fashion, The Odyssey Press, New York, 1965.
Reference
11. Davenport, Millia. The Book of Costume (Volumes One and Two), Crown Publishers, New York,
1957.
12.Fan Hong. Footbinding, Feminism, and Freedom, Frank Cass, London, 1997.
13.Giles, Herbert A., trans. Strange Stories from a Chinese Studio. Thomas, London, 1880.
14.Girotti, Eugenia. Footwear, Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 1997.
15.Hansen, Henry Harald. Costumes and Styles, E. P. Dutton & Co. Inc., New York, 1956.
16.Jackson, Beverley. Splendid Slippers, Ten Speed Press, Berkley, 1997.
17.Kemper, Rachel H. Costume, Newsweek Books, New York, 1979.
18.Levy, Howard S. The Lotus Lovers The Complete History of the Curious Erotic Custom of
Footbinding in China, Prometheus Books, Buffalo, 1992. (republished from 1966 edition)
19.McClellan, Elisabeth. History of American Costume 1607-1870, Tudor Publishing Company, New
York, 1937.
20.Miller, Bettina, ed. From Flappers to Flivvers, Reiman Publications, Greendale, 1995.
21.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page
Footwear

Types of footwear

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Types of footwear

There are various types of shoes are available like as athletic shoes, formal shoes, boots
etc .

Athletic :
Athletic shoes are specifically designed to be worn for participating in various sports.
Since friction between the foot and the ground is an important force in most sports,
modern athletic shoes are designed to maximize this force, and materials, such as rubber,
are used. Although, for some activities such as dancing or bowling, sliding is desirable, so
shoes designed for these activities often have lower coefficients of friction.
Boot :
A boot is a special type of shoe which covers the foot and the ankle and extends up the leg,
sometimes as far as the knee or even the hip. Most boots have aheel that is clearly
distinguishable from the rest of the sole, even if the two are made of one piece. They are
typically made of leather or rubber, although they may be made from a variety of different
materials. Boots are worn both for their functionality — protecting the foot and leg from
water, snow, mud or hazards or providing additional ankle support for strenuous
activities — as well as for reasons of style and fashion.
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Types of footwear (Continued)

Dress and casual

Dress shoes are characterized by smooth and supple leather uppers, leather
soles, and narrow sleek figure. Casual shoes are characterized by sturdy leather
uppers, non-leather outsoles, and wide profile.
Men's shoes can be categorized by how they are closed:
Oxfords (also referred as "Balmorals"): the vamp has a V-shaped slit to
which the laces are attached; also known as "closed lacing". The word "Oxford"
is sometimes used by American clothing companies to market shoes that are
not Balmorals, such as Blüchers.
Derby shoe: the laces are tied to two pieces of leather independently attached
to the vamp; also known as "open lacing" and is a step down in dressiness. If the
laces are not independently attached to the vamp, the shoe is known as
a blucher shoe. This name is, in American English, often used about derbys.
Monk-straps: a buckle and strap instead of lacing
Types of footwear (Continued)
Men shoes
Slip-ons: There are no lacings or fastenings. The popular loafers are part of
this category, as well as less popular styles, such as elastic-sided shoes.
Men's shoes can also be decorated in various ways:
Plain-toes: have a sleek appearance and no extra decorations on the vamp.
Cap-toes: has an extra layer of leather that "caps" the toe.
Brogues (American: wing-tips): The toe of the shoe is covered with a
perforated panel, the wing-tip, which extends down either side of the shoe.
Brogues can be found in both balmoral and blucher styles, but are considered
slightly less formal.
Types of footwear (Continued)
Women shoes
High-heeled footwear is footwear that raises the heels, typically 2 inches
(5 cm) or more above the toes, commonly worn by women for formal occasions
or social outings. Variants include kitten heels (typically 1½-2 inches high)
and stilletto heels (with a very narrow heel post) and wedge heels (with a
wedge-shaped sole rather than a heel post).
Mules are shoes or slippers with no fitting around the heel (i.e. they are
backless)
Sling backs are shoes which are secured by a strap behind the heel, rather
than over the top of the foot.
Ballet flats, known in the UK as ballerinas, ballet pumps or skimmers, are
shoes with a very low heel and a relatively short vamp, exposing much of the
instep. They are popular for warm-weather wear, and may be seen as more
comfortable than shoes with a higher heel.
Court shoes, known in the United States as pumps, are typically high-heeled,
slip-on dress shoes.
Types of footwear (Continued)
Unisex shoes
• Clog
• Platform shoe: shoe with very thick soles and heels
• Sandals: open shoes consisting of a sole and various straps, leaving much of
the foot exposed to air. They are thus popular for warm-weather wear,
because they let the foot be cooler than a closed-toed shoe would.
• Saddle shoe: leather shoe with a contrasting saddle-shaped band over the
instep, typically white uppers with black "saddle".
• Slip-on shoe: a dress or casual shoe without laces; often with tassels,
buckles, or coin-holders (penny loafers).
• Boat shoes, also known as "deck shoes": similar to a loafer, but more casual.
Laces are usually simple leather with no frills. Typically made of leather and
featuring a soft white sole to avoid marring or scratching a boat deck. The
first boat shoe was invented in 1935 by Paul Sperry.
• Slippers: For indoor use, commonly worn with pajamas.
Types of footwear (Continued)
Dance shoes
• Pointe shoes are designed for ballet dancing. These have a toe box that is
stiffened with glue and a hardened sole so the dancer can stand on the tips
of their toes. They are secured by elastic straps and ribbons that are tied to
the dancer's ankles.
• Ballet shoes are soft, pliable shoes made of canvas or leather, with either
continuous or two-part sole (also called split-sole), used for ballet dancing.
The sole is typically made of leather, with thicker material under the ball and
heel of the foot, and thinner and thus more flexible material under the arch
so that the foot can be easily pointed. They are typically secured by elastics
across the top of the foot.
• Ghillies are soft shoes that are used in Irish dance, Scottish country dance,
and highland dance.
• Jazz shoes typically have a two-part rubberized sole (also called split-sole) to
provide both flexibility and traction, and a short heel. They are secured to
the foot by laces or elastic inserts.
Types of footwear (Continued)
Orthopedic
• Orthopedic shoes are specially-designed footwear to relieve discomfort
associated with many foot and ankle disorders, such as
blisters, bunions, calluses and corns, hammer toes, plantar fasciitis, or heel
spurs. They may also be worn by individuals with diabetes or people
with unequal leg length. These shoes typically have a low heel, tend to be
wide with a particularly wide toe box, and have a firm heel to provide extra
support. Some may also have a removable insole, or orthotic, to provide
extra arch support
Types of footwear (Continued)
Orthopedic
• Orthopedic shoes are specially-designed footwear to relieve discomfort
associated with many foot and ankle disorders, such as
blisters, bunions, calluses and corns, hammer toes, plantar fasciitis, or heel
spurs. They may also be worn by individuals with diabetes or people
with unequal leg length. These shoes typically have a low heel, tend to be
wide with a particularly wide toe box, and have a firm heel to provide extra
support. Some may also have a removable insole, or orthotic, to provide
extra arch support
Anatomy of the Shoe

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Anatomy of the Shoe

Breast: The forward facing part of the heel, under the arch of the sole
Counter: A stiff piece of material at the heel of a shoe positioned between the
lining and upper that helps maintain the shape of the shoe. The counter helps
strengthen the rear of the shoe.
Feather: The part of the shoe where the upper's edge meets the sole
Heel: The heel is the part of the sole that raises the rear of the shoe in relation
to the front. The heal seat is the top of the heal that touches the upper, this is
typically shaped to match the form of the upper. The part of the the heel that
comes in contact with the ground is known as the the top piece.
Insole: A layer of material that sits inside the shoe that creates a layer between
the sole and the wearer's foot. A la The insole adds comfort for the wearer, while
hiding the join between the upper.
Linings: Most shoes include a lining on the inside of the shoe, around the
vamp and quarter. These linings improve comfort, and can help increase the
lifespan of the shoe.

46
Anatomy of the Shoe (Continued)

Outsole: The exposed part of the sole that is contact with the ground. As with
all parts of the shoe, outsoles are made from a variety of materials. The
properties the outsole need are: grip, durability, and water resistance
Puff: A reinforcing inside the upper which gives the toe its shape and support.
Similar in function to a toe cap.
Quarter: The rear and sides of the upper that covers the heel that are behind
the vamp. The heel section of the quarter is often strengthened with a stiffener,
which helps support the rear of the foot. Some shoe designs use a continuous
piece of leather for the vamp and quarter.
Seat: Where the heel of the fit sits in the shoe. It normally matches the shape of
the heal for comfort and support.
Shank: A piece of metal inserted between the sole and the insole lying against
the arch of the foot.
Sole: The entire part of the shoe that sites below the wearers foot. As opposed
to the upper. The upper and sole make up the whole of the shoe.
Throat: The front of the vamp next to the toe cap. For shoes were the vamp
and quarter panels are one piece the throat is at the eye-stay.
47
Anatomy of the Shoe (Continued)

Toe cap: Shoes may have a toe cap in the front upper of the shoe. Toe caps can
take various forms, but the distinct types are: complete replacements for the
front upper of the shoe; stitched over toecaps that add an extra layer to the
upper; solid toe caps for protection, such as steel toe caps. Stitch over toe caps
may be decorative in nature. Toe caps help add stength to the upper front of the
shoe, an area that receives a lot of stress and wear from use.
Top Piece: The part of the heel that comes in contact with the ground. Made of
a durable material that helps maintain friction with the ground.
Top line: The top edge of the upper
Upper: The entire part of the shoe that covers the foot.
Vamp: The section of upper that covers the front of the foot as far as the back
as the join of the quarter.
Waist: The arch and in-step of the foot.
Welt: A strip of material that joins the upper to the sole.

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Footwear size chart

5 49
Footwear size chart

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Footwear size chart (Continued)

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Footwear size chart (Continued)

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Footwear Testing

6 53
Footwear Testing

Footwear testing highlights the issues that are important to consumers, for
example footwear fit and comfort, performance, durability and safety. Accurate
footwear testing is also important to ensure footwear product meets with
legislation wherever it is brought to market. Some renowned testing house like
FDDI offers expert guidance through the General Product Safety Directive,
national, European and international directives, standards and test methods, as
well as developing its own performance guidelines and footwear test methods
which are recognized and valued throughout the footwear industry in the world.
FDDI is acknowledged as the leading authority on most aspects of footwear
testing, including durability testing and slip testing.

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Business Challenge

Ensuring product quality, performance characteristics and durability are prime

concerns for consumer products retailers and brands when placing product on
the market. Protecting brand equity and reputation are additional concerns that
require a different level of product testing and evaluation. With a wide variety of
tests in the market, how do you know which regulations, standards and product
tests are applicable to your footwear products? How can you more effectively
manage and improve your QA spend? And, apart from meeting basic
performance and regulatory requirements, how can you protect your brand
equity and stay competitive in the market? Star Level Protocol testing packages
can help answer these questions.

55
What are the key benefits?

Gain a clear understanding of which product tests, physical or chemical, are

required for your footwear products to enter a specific market
Select from basic testing levels for performance and compliance to the most
comprehensive protocol level to help protect and build your brand equity
Choose the most appropriate testing protocol levels for your product while
maintaining the flexibility to change your testing levels as needed
Test at one of several Global Technology and Testing Centers for Footwear
located across Asia
Additional labs positioned geographically to support manufacturing base,
with convenient sample pick-up and drop-off service available
Take confidence in knowing testing is conducted according to industry
standards (e.g., ASTM, ISO, AATCC, etc.) as opposed to in-house testing
methods
Maximize your planning efforts and better control your QA spend

56
Footwear Testing

Personal Protective Equipment - Footwear

Impact resistance:
Safety boots are fitted with a protective toecap which is capable of withstanding
a 200 Joule impact. This is a 20kg mass dropped from a height of 1 meter on to
the area just above the big toe. A “striker” tip similar to a blunt axe is fitted to
the bottom of the falling mass and strikes in the toe to heel direction. This test
has similarity to a load a person could carry being dropped onto the toe from
chest high. It was originally considered that the toes are impacted because the
gravitational speed of travel of the mass allows the foot to be moved, but often,
not in enough time to clear the toes from the impact zone. All safety boots must
pass this test.
The standards require minimum clearances inside the toecap at the moment of
maximum depression of the toecap.

57
Footwear Testing (Continued )

Personal Protective Equipment - Footwear

Compression resistance:
The toe section of a boot is fitted between two compression plates and a vertical
load of 15,000 Newton’s, a load roughly the equal of 1.5 tonne is loaded on to the
top of a toecap. It is not certain why this load was selected, but anecdotally we
might think this test could be similar to a car or light vehicle lowered over the toe
when a car jack is released. All safety boots must pass this test.
The standards require minimum clearances inside the toecap at the moment of
maximum depression of the toecap.
Specific Ergonomic Features:
In this test a brief wear trial assesses the boot to make sure in can be worn without
discomfort or interference in walking, stair-climbing, or crouching. All footwear
must pass this test. It is considered by the original standards committee in Europe
(where the source document was written) that all PPE must be wearable and
ergonomically satisfactory as described in the test method.

58
Footwear Testing (Continued )

Slip Resistance:
In this test two surfaces are used as representing commonly encountered risk
areas. These are a ceramic tile wet with detergent and water, the other is a
stainless steel plate wet with glycerol.
Footwear is tested in flat contact, and with the toe raised to a 7 degree angle to
simulate heel strike.
Metatarsal impact:
This is a 100 Joule impact test only. In this test a 20kg mass falls through half of
a meter onto a pre-determined point above the metatarsal bones of the foot.
This is roughly equal to 20kg dropped from knee high. This is an optional test,
not all boots are fitted with a metatarsal protector. When such a device is fitted,
it must be integral and non removable. The standards require minimum
clearances inside the boot or shoe at the moment of maximum depression.

59
Footwear Testing (Continued )

Penetration resistance:
Some boots are fitted with a penetration resistant insole or midsole. A standard
steel nail is slowly driven up into the sole till the nail penetrates into the foot
space. A minimum load of 1,100 Newton’s is required before the nail penetrates.
1,100 Newton’s is roughly equal to 110 kg and this test may simulate a 110kg
human walking on an up-turned nail point. This test is optional. When a
penetration resistant insole or midsole device is fitted, it must be integral and
non removable.
Electrical Resistance:
There are three ways footwear can be considered electrically resistant
Conductive:
This footwear has low electrical resistance to a 100 Volt D.C. charge and is
designed to remove static electricity from the body very easily, but has very little
protection from an electric shock.

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Footwear Testing (Continued )

Antistatic:
This footwear can remove static electricity, but it still has limited protection to
electric shock under a 100 Volt D.C. charge.
Electrically insulating:
This footwear is designed to give some protection from voltages below 5,000 or
10,000 volts.
Cut resistance:
In this test a small rotating blade under low load of about 500g is stroked over
the boot upper to assess resistance to accidental exposure to a sharp edge or
knife blade. This test is also known as the blade or glove cut test and was
originally designed for butchers and the like.

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Footwear Testing (Continued )

Energy Absorption of the seat region:

In this test a model of a foot heel is forced down on the heel area of the inside of
a shoe to simulate wear and the energy absorbed is measured. This is to ensure
repeated heel impact energy is absorbed during wear.
Water resistance:
This test uses techniques to ensure that only a small amount of water is allowed
to enter the footwear over a brief period of exposure to water. Note this means
water resistance, and the footwear may not be water proof.
(Waterproof footwear remains as provided by traditional “gumboot” type
footwear.)
Resistance to hot contact of soles:
In this test a block of metal (about one inch square) heated to 300 °C is placed
on a sample of the sole for one minute. The sole should not crack when bent
around a standard mandrel or burn after this test.

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Footwear Testing (Continued )

Resistance to Inimical Environments (heat or cold)

Heat insulation is done by resting a boot on a hot plate at 150 °C and measuring
the foot surface temperature inside the footwear. The temperature increase
should not exceed 22 °C in the test, and the footwear should remain functional.
Cold insulation is done by resting a boot in a cold freezer at -17 °C and
measuring the foot surface temperature inside

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Footwear Testing (Continued )

Protective Footwear for Firefighters

Flame resistance:
A flame is applied to the sole and upper joint area for a specified time and then
inspected for continued flaming, glow and damage and functionality.
Contact Heat:
A complete sample of footwear is immersed in a sand bath set at 250 ±5 °C aver a
period of time the temperature inside the sample is taken and inspected for any
damage and functionality.
Radiant Heat:
A test sample is taken from the upper and exposed to a heat flux density of 20
kW/m² for 3 min and inspected for damage and functionality after.
Heat Resistance:
A complete sample of footwear is suspended

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Footwear Testing (Continued )

Protective Footwear for Firefighters

Flame resistance:
A flame is applied to the sole and upper joint area for a specified time and then
inspected for continued flaming, glow and damage and functionality.
Contact Heat:
A complete sample of footwear is immersed in a sand bath set at 250 ±5 °C aver a
period of time the temperature inside the sample is taken and inspected for any
damage and functionality.
Radiant Heat:
A test sample is taken from the upper and exposed to a heat flux density of 20
kW/m² for 3 min and inspected for damage and functionality after.
Heat Resistance:
A complete sample of footwear is suspended

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Footwear Testing (Continued )

Compounds of concern in footwear

Aromatic amines:
Azo dyes that degrade to form carcinogenic or potentially carcinogenic, aromatic
amines are potentially found in dyed components such as leather and textiles.
Chromium VI:
Chromium VI can potentially be found in chromium tanned leather under certain
chemical conditions. Chromium VI content is commonly restricted due to skin
sensitizing and potentially carcinogenic attributes.
Dimethylfumarate:
Dimethylfumarate (DMFU) is an anti-mould agent potentially used in transit.
Dimethyl fumarate content is commonly restricted in legislation due to strong
skin sensitising attributes.

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Footwear Testing (Continued )

Formaldehyde:
Formaldehyde can potentially be found in most footwear components. Formaldehyde
content is commonly restricted in legislation due to toxicity.
Heavy metals:
The heavy metals; Antimony (Sb), Arsenic (As), Lead (Pb), Cadmium (Cd), Chromium
(Cr), Cobalt (Co), Copper (Cu), Nickel (Ni), Mercury (Hg), and Zinc (Zn) can be potentially
found in most footwear components. These heavy metals are commonly restricted in
legislation due to their respective toxicity.
Phthalates:
Phthalates have been commonly used as plasticisers in synthetic materials. The use of
seven phthalates has been restricted in legislation due to being in suspicion as endocrine
disruptors.
pH:
An excessively high or low pH of materials in contact with the skin will cause skin
sensitivity.

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Thank you

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