Fusing

operations

Presented by:
Soundaravalli.B
Vedasurti.S.R
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What is Fusing?
 Fusible interlining is the process where the wrong
side of the fashion garment panel is fused with a
thermoplastic resin and can be bonded with another
strip of fabric by the proper application of pressure
and heat at a specific temperature and time.
 The fusible interlinings improve the appearanceof
finished garments through

~ Stabilization and control of crucial regions of

the garment.
Strengthening of particular design features.
~
Maintaining the crisp and fresh look of the
~ base fabric
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Science behind Fusing

process
 The means of fusing are temperature and pressure, applied
over a period of time, usually in some kind of specialized
fusing press.
 The rise in temperature at the ‘glue line’, the interface of
resin and outer fabric where the resin is active, is caused by
the electric heating elements of the press. This changes the
state of the resin from a dry solid to a viscous fluid. Only
with appropriate pressure will this flow among the fibers of
both the outer fabric and the fusible base cloth.
 On cooling, the resin re-solidifies and forms a bond between
the two components of the laminate.
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Factors determining the properties of fused

laminate
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Factor number:1 (base

fabric)
 Woven interlinings are used to improve the
dimensional stability of the garment part, increase
stiffness and enhance fabric bulk or volume.
 The knitted interlinings are popular in lightweight
clothing which requires softness and elasticity along
with improved formability and sewability. Knitted
interlinings cost lesser than the woven ones due to
reduced production costs in the knitting process.
 Spun-bonded interlinings are used for outer fabric
bonding or as support for belt loops.
Woven, Non woven, knitting interlinings.
2. Resin used in interlining 7

• The fusing temperature needed must not be so high that It will damage the outer fabric or its colour. The usual
• maximum is 175 °C, with 150 °C most common.
• The fusing temperature needed must not be so low that the bond is inadequate to withstand garment making. The
. lower limit is generally 110 °C,

• The resin must provide a bond that is suitably resistant to washing and/or dry-cleaning.
• In the majority of end uses, the resin must be white or transparent. It must also have low dye retention
. properties.

• The thermoplastic nature of the resin must be such that adjustment of temperature is sufficient to
permit it to penetrate the outer fabric to give a bond, without flowing excessively to give strike-
through or strike-back.
. • The resin must be harmless in processing and in end use.
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3. Method of applying resin to the base cloth

 1. Dry dot printed coating:

 The powdered resin fills engraved holes on a roller. The
base cloth passes over a heated roller and then against the
engraved roller. The powdered resin adheres to the cloth in
the form of dots.
 Oven heating follows the printing operation to ensure
permanent adhesion.
 The temperature and pressure on the two rollers is varied
for different resin types. Patterns of dots can vary from 3 to
12 dots per centimeter according to the garment
manufacturer’s requirements.
 Generally, lighter weight garment fabrics require
interlinings with smaller dots in higher concentration, while
heavier weight fabrics require larger dots in lower
concentration to allow good penetration into the fabric
surface and give a satisfactory bond.
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3. Method of applying resin to the base cloth

 2. Paste coating:
 With paste coating, fine resin powders are blended
with water and other agents to form a smooth paste
and are printed on to the base cloth.
 Heat removes the water and the dots coalesce into
solid resin.
 This type of coating gives precisely shaped dots and
is used to produce the finer dots used in shirt collar
fusible
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3. Method of applying resin to the base cloth

 3.Scatter coating:
 In scatter coating, specifically designed
scattering heads are used to provide an
even scatter under automatic control.
 The resin is then softened in an oven,
pressed on to the base cloth and cooled.
 This is the cheapest method of making a
fusible but the product is neither as
uniform nor as flexible as printed
coatings.

Flat bed fusing machine
 
In this machine, there are two beds; one bed is fixed called
‘BUCK’ and the other is moveable called ‘HEAD’. The
interlining and garment component are positioned first
and placed on the BUCK. Due to switch operation, the
HEAD moves downward and comes in contact to BUCK
and creates pressure on the component (interlining).
Temperature is applied through HEAD and after a certain
time the HEAD moves upward.
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Heating system may be electrical or steam. Application
temperature, pressure and time could be pre-set in this machine;
hence fusing conditions are maintained properly. There are some
modern flat bed fusing machines also available where for one
HEAD three BUCKs are used. As a result production per unit time
increases. There is an air suction system with BUCK by foot
operated switch, which helps faster production. Most of these
machines are fitted with timers and programmed controls and can
achieve high levels of fusing quality.
 Two types of action used in flat bed

(1.) Vertical action (2) Scissor action

Hashima brand
210000 INR

12
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Continuous bed fusing

machine
• End-to-end feed – The garment panels

.
are transferred from the loading area,
through the fusing and cooling section,
finally to the delivery side located at the
other end of the machine.

• Return feed – In this belt system, the

fused components are returned to the

.
same location where it is loaded. The
upper belt transports the garment panels
to the fusing processes whereas the
lower belt returns the fused panels to its
starting position.
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Methods of applying heat in continuous fusing

With direct heating, the conveyor belt
carries the components to be fused into
direct contact with a heated surface,
either a drum or curved plates

With indirect heating, the components to be

fused are carried through a heated chamber

With low temperature, gradient heating

temperature reached at the glue line is only
just above that required to make the
resin a viscous fluid
Most selling brand ~ Meyers continuous fusing machines

• Heating modules with three registers

and two control zones configured in
terms of optimum energy efficiency
maintain the temperature within the
processing window, even under
maximum load.
• Silicone coated pressure rollers with
large diameters and separate deflection
rollers keep the pressure constant over
the complete belt width.
• The latest innovative SIEMENS
comfort control stands for simple and
intuitive operation by means of a large
7“ touch screen.
Reverse fusing.

• In this method the outer

fabric lies on top of the
fusible. It is sometimes used
in fusing shirt and blouse
collars.
• On flat bed presses with
elements only in the top
platen, it is necessary to
adjust temperature settings.
• Since the interlining part is
normally slightly smaller
than the garment part,
accurate positioning may be
difficult.
Sandwich fusing
• This is effectively carried out only on a
horizontal continuous press where heat
is applied both from above and below.
Two pairs of components, forming two
laminates, are fused together, with the
two outer fabrics on the outside of the
sandwich (of four layers) and the two
interlinings on the inside.
• With correct temperature settings,
the glue line temperature may be achieved
in both laminates, but the potential for
strike-back occurring and causing all the
layers to adhere together is considerable.
• A small amount of fusing time will be
saved but preparation will take longer
and the quality of the results
may be unsatisfactory.
 High frequency fusing machines 18

1. This type of machine is quite different from

 The difficulty that arises with
a continuous fusing machine. Because in
this machine, heat is created the same as a this method of fusing is that the
microwave cooker. press must be set to allow for the
2. Fabrics and interlining are arranged in particular natural or man-made
stacks and placed between two metal plates
of the fusing machine. The upper plate
materials being used, the weight
exerts pressure on the plies of the fabrics and thickness of those materials,
and the interlining with the help of spring and their moisture content.
pressure.
 This has not been found easy,
3. The material between the plates moves at
high speed. So high friction heat is especially in the case of the
generated within the material. This heat is moisture content.
generated uniformly at the same time on
every corner of the fabric and interlining.  If incorrect estimates are made,
4. For the generation of heat, water is a must. the press may overfuse and bond
The difference between water vapour, the the whole stack together, or
difference in heat may also happen.
underfuse and produce a poor
5. The required fusing time depends on the
electrical power of the machine and the bond on each garment part.
height of the lay of the fabric. But in this
type of machine, it takes 1to 3 minutes for
fusing
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Moulding
1.
The development of moulded garments
brings together a number of
technologies, without which moulded
garments would be impossible.
Moulding causes the fabric of the
garment to be permanently stretched or
shrunk or both, by heating it until it just
begins to soften.
Moulding takes place over a
hemispherical metal surface and the
central area of the cut cup becomes
moulded to that shape.
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Welding:
• Radio frequency welding (also known as RF or dielectric
• welding). An alternating electric field is applied to two
• shaped electrodes between which are the materials to be
. • seamed.
•.

• Hot air welding. Hot air is directed to the join-line between

• the fabric plies, and a roller applies pressure to facilitate flow
• of the melt.
• Hot wedge welding. Two shaped heated jaws are brought
.
• together, between which are the materials to be seamed

• Ultrasonic welding. The seam assembly is placed under a

• metal head which is vibrated at ultrasonic frequencies. This
• creates a melt and the pressure of the head ensures flow
. •.
Thank you