A subfloor refers to the flooring that serves as the foundationWhat Is A Subfloor?

in a building. Plywood and concrete are both common types of subflooring.

Basements have cement subfloors and above grade construction typically has a plywood subfloor. Subfloor may also refer to the type of flooring
already installed if you are updating the flooring.

Why Is Subflooring Important?

A subfloor that is not flat enough, not dry enough, not properly cleaned, not structurally sound, or faulty in any area can lead to a host of
unwanted results such as:
•Uneven spots
•Excessive wear on high spots
•Unsightly surface variations
•Decreased lifespan
•Sagging
•Squeaking within the floor system
•Decreased comfort
•Excessive movement and shifting
•Separation
•Damage
 There are five basic types of sub floors that you
can use to install a wooden floor:
1. Concrete screeds
 Concrete screed floors can vary in condition and levels. If your subfloor isn’t flat and smooth, you can use self-levelling compounds to
rectify the issue. It is also crucially important to check the moisture content of concrete subfloors. Use a hygrometer to check moisture
levels within the subfloor, and thusly whether that screed requires additional drying or introducing a sealant or Damp Proof Membrane prior
to fitting a wood floor.

2. Joists
 If you’re fixing floorboards directly to joists, you can either use secret nails or screws. These are applied using a purpose made nail gun or
screw fixer which is set at a predetermined angle. This ensures the groove of the next board can be fitted up without the screw or nail
showing. Most of our engineered floor boards that are at least 19mm thick are structural and can be fitted in this manner as long as the joists
are no more than 300mm from centre.

3. Ground floor joists

4. Old Floor Boards:
 Generally old floor boards will be pine or cheap softwood. A new hardwood floor can either be secret nailed/screwed, floated or
glued directly onto these boards if the conditions are correct. If your existing floor is uneven or damaged you may need to replace it
with ply or chipboard prior to fitting a new wood floor.
 5. Chipboard or Plywood Floors:
 Chipboard and plywood are suitable subfloors for wood flooring providing they are of sufficient thickness to support the floor and are of
good quality. For fitting block parquet flooring a minimum thickness of 18mm is required and it must be marine grade ply.

Explain trimming and strutting techniques

A method of giving the temporary support to the side of deep trench or when subsoil is loose or very soft is known as timbering
(i.e. shoring) and strutting. It consists of timber planks and strut to give temporary support to the side of trench. When the depth of
trench is large, or when the sub-soil is loose, the sides of the trench may cave in. The problem can be solved by adopting a suitable
method of timbering. Timbering of trenches, sometimes also known as shoring consists of providing timber planks or boards and
struts to give temporary support to the sides of the trench. Timbering of deep trenches can be done with the help of the following
methods:
1. Stay bracing.
2. Box sheeting
3. Vertical sheeting
4. Runner system
5. Sheet piling
 The process of laying floating timber flooring
 Type of material – Including the price of the material is important for properly estimating the final price of your whole renovation project.
Timber floorboards come from different timber species. The prices vary as different species come in different quality, colour, wood grain,
etc. Some popular floating timber floor choices are Blackbutt, Jarrah and Bamboo.
 Size of the room – Naturally, the bigger the space that needs to be covered, the higher the number of planks you will need for the floor.
 Qualifications of the professional – If you decide to seek professional help, naturally, your expenses will rise. To make sure your money
won’t go down the drain, you should only trust certified installers to do the job. Prior to the installation, you can give them details on the
site so they can send you a rough estimate. Or, in order to get the most accurate price, scheduling a viewing is mandatory.

Essential tools
• Hand saw
• Pencil
• Underlay
• PVA glue
• Measuring tape
• Moisture metre
• Jigsaw
• Spirit level
• Expansion spacers
 Finishing
• Sand the Floor: Begin by sanding the floor using a floor sander with fine grit sandpaper. Sand the floor in the direction
of the grain until the surface is smooth and even. Be sure to remove any dust or debris from the surface before
proceeding.
• Apply Wood Filler: Use a putty knife to fill any gaps, holes, or cracks in the floor with a wood filler. Be sure to choose a
filler that matches the colour of the timber.
• Stain the Floor (optional): If desired, apply a wood stain to the floor with a brush or roller. Allow the stain to dry
completely before proceeding.
• Apply the Sealer: Apply a thin, even layer of sealer to the entire surface of the floor using a brush or roller. Be sure to
follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application and drying time.
• Sand the Floor Again: Once the sealer has dried, sand the floor lightly with fine grit sandpaper to remove any rough
spots or bubbles. Be sure to remove any dust or debris from the surface before proceeding.
• Apply the Finish: Apply the finish to the floor using a brush or roller, being careful to apply it evenly and without
leaving any bubbles or streaks. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application and drying time.
• Apply Additional Coats (optional): If desired, apply additional coats of finish to the floor, sanding lightly between each
coat.
• Allow the Floor to Dry: Allow the finish to dry completely before walking on the floor or placing any furniture on it.
This can take anywhere from 24 hours to several days, depending on the type of finish and the humidity level in the
room.
• Buff the Floor (optional): Once the finish has dried completely, buff the floor with a floor buffer and a buffing pad to
bring out its shine.
• Apply Wax (optional): If desired, apply a layer of wax to the floor with a clean cloth to give it an extra layer of
protection and shine.
• Prefinished Timber Flooring:
One of the biggest advantages of using prefinished or engineered timber flooring is that it does not need any finishing after
installation. It can be walked upon immediately.
Just inspect the final surface and remove all spacers. Make sure that the skirting boards are anchored only to the vertical surfaces and
not to the flooring itself. Install the finishing profiles as needed.