Operation Breakdown of a T-shirt MFM, Sem 1 | NIFT, Mumbai | 2008
Garment Manufacturing Technology 3
Fabrics used for T-shirts are primarily 100% cotton or cotton /polyester blends. All cotton is generally used inproducing better quality garments, though yarn type, fabrication and fabric finished also affect quality. Fiberlength and alignment affect durability and appearance. Ring-spun yarns provide long-range performance.Heavier fabrics are often 100 percent cotton and require more yarn which leads to increase in costs. Trims usedon T-shirts consist of neckbands, cuffs, bindings; screen printed designs, embroidery, etc.Trims maybe matching or contrasting. Tubular neckbands do not require seaming and are often used for betterturtlenecks and crew necks. Other trims used are braids,stripes and bindings Trims must be compatible with othermaterials, garment performance care and use.Tape maybe used on back necklines, to stabilize and enclosethe seams and improve durability and performance. Narrowtwill tape or stable strips maybe sewn in shoulder seams toprevent breaking of the stitch line. Elastic applicationensures recovery of stretched seams. Threads of many typesare used in sewing T
shirt .Budget shirts are stitched withwhite thread, while top-stitching is usually done with color-matched threads.
SPREADING AND CUTTING
Tubular knit fabric, which is frequently used in adult T-Shirts, creates some challenges in preproduction that aredifferent than products being spread and cut from flatgoods. Closed markers are usually used to cut tubular goodsto be able to utilize the full width of the fabric. Tubulargoods may be cut with an open marker but primarily for
children’s clothing. Fabric may be knife cut or die cut. If it is
die cut, lengths of the fabric cut to the lengths of the diemust be cross or section from the new fabric. Sections orblocks of knife are stacked until they meet the specified plyheight and the spread is moved to the die cutter.Better T-shirt will have a tubular goods turns ¼ turn before cross cutting and stacking. This will transfer thecrease lines from sides of the spread to the centre. This moves the fold from what would be centre front andcenter back to the underarm area.turning the fabric although automated, provides a less distorted surface forcentre front. Die cutting usually causes less distortion problems in the cutting process.