A MAGYAR VISELET EREDETE

S TRTNETE

1. Kalotaszegi pr Couple

6/a. Rimci legny Palc Man

3. Hun fejedelem - Hun

Prince

7. Ormnsg

4. Testr - Body Guard

9. Fr mentben -

Aristocrat in "Mente"

11/a. IV. Lszl kirly King Lszl IV

12. Frfi dolmnyban Gentleman in Doublet

13. Magyar tbornok Hungarian General

Egy np
kultrjnak
kzvetlen
megnyilvnulsa,
ami a tmegek
letvel szorosan
sszefgg,
sorsukat
vgigksri, egyes
esemnyek
emlkt megzi s
megmagyarzza
az a viseletk. A
mi nemzeti
viseletnk is hven
tkrzi a sok
vezredes magyar
sorsot, mely
idben s trben
oly klnbz
helyeken rt el
fontos
korszakokat. A
magyarok
sorsval,
trtnelmvel
egytt halad a
viselet is.

15. Hlgy nemzeti

viseletben - Lady in
National Dress

17. Mente

Eurzsia magyar
s rokonfaj
turni npei
nemcsak
hadakozshoz
rtettek, de volt
szervezetk,
trvnyhozsuk s
mvszi
kultrjuk.
Vitathatatlan,
hogy Kelet fejlett
mvszi
19. Magyar kirlyi pr kultrjnak
Royal Couple
kialaktsban a
turni npeknek
rszk volt. St Eurpa kultrtrtnetre is

maradand hatst gyakoroltak. Egyik

nevezetes rtk, amelyet Eurpa fldjre
hoztak, illetve elterjesztettek, ruhzatuk
mvszi becs szabsa s dsztse volt. (1.
kp: Kalotaszegi legny s leny prtban s
muszulyban. 2. kp: Nemes hlgy s r
arannyal gazdagon hmzett ruhban, XVIII.
szzad.)
A hun fejedelmeket a fmtrgyak
brzolsaibl ismerjk. ltzkket
vizsglva, meglep hasonlsgot tallunk a
magyarsg si viseletvel, melyet a XX.
szzadig megrztt nlunk a furak
dszltzete s a np sokfle viselete.
A szentptervri Ermitzs-gyjtemnyben
lthat egy ezsttlon egy IV. vagy V.
szzadbeli hun fejedelem lovon l alakja,
amint htrafel nyilaz. (3. kp: Hun
fejedelem lovasalakja) A krvonalban
megmutatkoz ruhzata, mely trdgr,
vvel leszortott dolmnybl s szk
nadrgra felhzott csizmbl ll, mind a
szabsa, mind egsz formja a mi rgi
uraink viselett adja. A sveg
homlokboglrja, a mellcsat, az v, a csizma
szle s a lszerszm megmutatjk azoknak
az apr fmvereteknek az alkalmazst,
melyek honfoglalskori srjainkban oly nagy
szmban tallhatk. A fejedelem
bajuszviselete is hasonl a magyarokhoz.
Anonymus azt rja a XI. vagy XII. szzad
vgn, hogy a rgi haza fldjn sok volt a
nyuszt, gyhogy nemcsak nemes, hanem a
gulys, kansz s juhsz is evvel kest
ruhjt azon a fldn... Megemlti, hogy
szvetbl voltak straik, nyusztok s ms
vadak brvel ruhzkodtak. A honfoglal
magyar ruhzatnak fanyaga is a br
lehetett. Ezt letarolva, vagy prmjvel egytt
hasznltk. Megfigyelhetjk, hogy a mai
magyarok ruhzatban is milyen nagy
szerepe van a brnek. Ezer vvel ezeltt is
megvolt a kacagny, kdmn, bekecs, suba.

Brbl volt a szk nadrg, a lgytalp

csizma, a prmes sveg s kalpag. Brbl
voltak az vek, tarsolyok, nyergek s a
lovak sallangos szerszmjai. (4. kp: Testr
prducbr kacagnyban, dszesen
felszerszmozott lovon, XVIII. szzad. 5.
kp: Klnfle magyar bundk, XIX.
szzad.) Errl tanskodnak a
honfoglalskori srok, melyekbl nagy
szmban kerlnek el gombok (A gombot a
magyaroktl vettk t Eurpa npei.),
pitykk, boglrok, veretek s kapcsok a
maradk brdarabokkal. Teht a
fmpitykket, boglrokat svegre, vekre,
brcsizma szrra, s az ujjas felsruhra is
tettk, nemcsak dsztsknt, hanem a
fegyverek elleni vdeleml is. Szmos vidk
pityks frfimellny-viselete ide vezethet
vissza. (6/a kp: Rimci legny pityks
mellnyben, Ngrd megye. 6/b kp: XIX.
szzadi pityks fi mellny. Amerikai
Magyar Mzeum tulajdona.)
seink ismertk a tmr-, szcs- s vargamestersget; rtettek a szrposzt (nemezszvet) s abaposzt ksztshez. A
nemezszvetet storfalnak, takarnak,
sznyegnek s a ruhzathoz hasznltk.
Vszonbl volt az ing s a b, rncos gatya.
A nk, keleti szoks szerint, hoszsz
ingflben jrtak, melybl kettt is felvettek.
A felst, amit ma ruhnak neveznk,
hmzssel dszthettk. A szsz, kender,
ors, vszon, gyolcs, szni, varrni szavak
mr a honfoglals idejn megvoltak
nyelvnkben. Egy rdekes rgi szavunk a
fehrnp, ami ltalban n-t jelent, s a
tlnyoman fehr ruhzatukkal
magyarzhat. Nmely vidken, mint az
Ormnsgban, a Somogy megyei Cskly
faluban, Gcsejben, Torockn, a
Barcasgban (htfalusi csngk) a np ma is
majdnem teljesen fehr gyolcsltzetben jr.
(7. kp: Ormnsgi fiatal asszony fehr
hzisztt gyolcsban. 8. kp: Gcseji
regasszony fehr viselete.) Nhol eskvre,

mshol pedig gyszra ltzik hfehrbe a

magyar. Ezzel a sok fehr ruhzattal bizony
fontos volt az lland tisztlkods is, ami
akkoriban Eurpban mg nem volt szoks.
gy rthet, hogy a biznci rok elismerssel
szlnak a magyarok tisztasgrl,
szpsgrl s tbori frdikrl. Ezt aztn
igyekeznek tlk tvenni. A kabt (khabad)
s mente (mandyae) is megtetszett nekik,
mert tveszik ltzetkbe - rjk. (9. kp:
Fr prmmel dsztett mentben, XIX.
szzad. 10. kp: Vrosi polgr prmmel
dsztett mentben, XIX. szzad.)
A keresztnysg terjesztsvel nemcsak az
si vallst de a szoksokat is tiltottk. Az si
ruhzat elhagysa s a nyugati ltzkhez
val alkalmazkods a vallsvltoztats
kvetkeztben terjedt el a fels
osztlyokban. A np nem hagyta el a szokott
ruht s idvel az elkelek is visszatrtek
rgi keleti pompaszeretetkhz. Annyira
szerette a magyar a fnyz viseletet, hogy
rendeletekkel igyekeztk tiltani a dszes
ltzkdst egsz trtnelme folyamn.
XI. szzadbeli magyar frfi viselet a pcsi
szkesegyhz dombormvein lthat: kt
magyar r gynggyel kivarrt ingben,
boglros mentvel s cscsos svegben. A
velencei Szent Mrk-templom egyik
mozaikjn nyilas magyar vitz lthat
hrmas hajfonattal, kdmnben s
magasszr csizmban.
A tatrjrs idejn a kun beteleplk viselete
nagy hatssal volt a magyarsgra, fleg
mivel a kirly is abban jrt. A kun knts
fldig rt, derkban testhez simult s
csptjban rncoldott. A hegyes, hossz
svegket, melynek felhajl s bevgott
karimja volt a magyar urak is hordtk.
(11/a kp: IV. Lszl kirly kun pogny
vagyis si viseletben, oldalt csuks, rncos
alj kntsben s cscsos svegben,
Kpeskrnika 1358. 11/b kp: IV. Lszl

kirly, Undi Mria rajza.) Az itt brzolt IV.

Lszl kirlyunk ltzete ersen emlkeztet
nhny ma is hasznlt npviseleti darabra.
Valszinleg a kun viseletnek nevezett
ruhzatot mr az smagyarok is hordtk, s
IV. Lszl kirlyunk idejben jra
visszatrtek viselshez. Ebben az idben
terjedt el a ni ltzk rgi ingformjra
kerl, derktl rncolt, prm- vagy
zsinorszeglyes, hossz szoknya.
Az Anjou-korban a magyar ri ltzk
annyira tetszett az elkel idegeneknek,
hogy tvettk s klfldn is elterjesztettk.
(12. kp: Gombos kurtaujj dolmny, hmes
ingujj, szk nadrg, lent gombbal zrdik,
sar s brkapca, XVII. szzad eleje.) A
rgi, nemes formj, testhezll dolmny, a
lbra feszl szk nadrg s csizma, a mente
s kacagny (prduc-, tigris- vagy
farkasbrbl) a magyar frfiak kedvelt
ruhadarabjai maradtak egszen a XX.
szzadig. Prmes sveg boglrjba tztt
daru, kcsag vagy kerecsentoll egsztette ki
a frfiltzket. (13. kp: Magyar tbornoki
dszruha. Ds zsinorzs dolmny, prmmel
szegett mente, prducbr kacagny,
prmsveg kerecsentollas forgval, XVIII.
szzad. 14. kp: II. Jzsef gyerekknt
magyar dszruhban, mentben,
prmsvegben, XVIII. szzad a ruha a
Magyar Nemzeti Mzeum tulajdona.)
A ni viselet idtll darabjai: alsing, fels
ing (felimeg) sokszor rncos, hmzett s
gynggyel dsztett ujjakkal, testhezll,
hmzssel, gyngygyel, sjtssal dsztett
ingvll/fzvll, melyet zsinrral fztek
egybe, bokig r, ersen rncos szoknya,
tbbsoros brsony vagy csipke szegssel,
szles, rncolt ktny (elkt), szintn
csipke, hmzs, rece dsztssel. (15. kp:
Hossz rncolt szoknya, csipkvel dsztett
szoros fzvll, csipke ktny, b mente.
Minden darab gazdagon zsinrozott. 16.
kp: Fri hlgy eskvi ruhja, 1687.) A

nk is viseltek mentt, subt, sveget, dszes

fktt, a lnyok gyngyztt, boglros
vagy pillangs prtt, gyngys virgokbl
font koszort, kezkben keszkent. Feltn,
hogy ezeket a ruhadarabokat az ri osztly
s a falusi np egyarnt viselte. A klnbsg
az anyag minsgben s a kivitelezsben
mutatkozott csupn.
Mindenkor hangslyt fektettek gy a frfi,
mint a ni ruhzat elksztsnl a sznek s
dszts sszhangjra. Ezrt is olyan zlses
s festi a magyar ri- s npviselet. (17.
kp: Esterhzy Lszl mentje, XVII.
szzad kzepe. 18. kp: Gazdagon hmzett
szoknya s vllfz, Esterhzy Orsolya
ruhatrbl. XVII. szzad kzepe.)
Figyelemremlt az is, hogy gy a rgi, mint
az jabbkori brzolsokon a magyarok
mindvgig kedveltk a testhezszabott
viseletet, mely kihangslyozta karcs
derekukat, szp testalkatukat. (19. kp:
Magyar kirlyi pr szkely falfestmnyrl,
XIII. szzad. 20. kp: Udvarhlgy s nemesi
csaldbl szrmaz aprdja, XVI. szzad.)
A nemesi ltzetre jellemz a sznek
pompja, tiszta fekett csak mly gysz
idejn hasznltak.
A magyar nemzeti viselet si s idtll
voltt az is bizonytja, hogy a klnbz
politikai- vagy divatramlatok hiba
nyomtk el, vagy szortottk ki tbb zben, a
magyarsg jra s jra visszatrt ahhoz a
ruhzathoz, mely alkatnak s lelkisgnek
legjobban megfelelt. Remlhetleg a XX.
szzad elszrklt falanszter rendszere sem
semmisti meg vgrvnyesen ezt a tbb
vezredes rksget.

A MAGYAR NPI VISELET

26. Szr, Karcag,

szabsminta - Pattern

21. Zempln,
Szoborszer pr - Proud
Couple

28. Suba, Decs

23. Cifraszr, Bihar

30. Kitertett suba - Laid

Out Suba

25. Domborm - Relief,

Persepolis

32. Kdmn

34. Szokmny

36. Frfiingek - Men's

Shirts

38. Gatya

40. Fktk s csizmk

- Head Dresses and
Boots

A magyar
npviselet igen
vltozatos s
gazdag,
vidkenknt, st
nha falunknt
ms s ms. Az
si ltzkds
szmos darabja
azonban
megmaradt s az
orszg minden
42. Mennyassony rszben
Bride, Kalotaszeg
megtallhat. Ez
arra utal, hogy a
honfoglals idejn a magyar np ltzete
elgg egysges lehetett. A vidkenknt
eltr viseletek azonos vonsai a magyar faj
alaptulajdonsgaival fggnek ssze. A np
komolysga, mltsgteljes magatartsa,
jrsa, a ruhaformk zrt, nyugalmas
krvonalait kveteli. A npi ruht pontosan
szablyok szerint kell felvenni, s
mindenkinl egyformn kell lljon a testen
szoros, feszes elrendezsben. Elcsszs,
lazasg nagy illetlensgnek szmt. Ezt Undi
Mria gy fogalmazza meg: "A mi
npviseletnk inkbb szablyos, nmileg tn
merev is, mintha egyenruha lenne. A dszbe
ltztt paraszt szp szobornak tudja magt,
azrt ruhja csorbtatlan rendjre gondosan
gyel. Fests, fnykpezs kzben vilgrt
sem hajlana s csak a szoborszer
helyzetben akarja magt ltni.
Npviseletnk gy azutn nem is annyira
festi, mint inkbb konstruktv, azaz
ptszeti szpsg; amit festinek ltunk
benne, az valjban csak a sznek ragyogsa
s harmnija. A npi ruha ptszeti
elgondols zrt formakr, mely npnk
katons megjelenshez gy illik s mind a
test, mind a lelki vilgt gy juttatja
rvnyre. nrzetes bszke mivoltt,
dalissgt pedig mg jobban alhzza
hatrtalan pompaszeretete, amely miatt a
np anyagi erejn fell klt ruhjra s a

sznek, anyagok s az arany-ezst

csillogsrt sok mindenrl lemond. si
keleti rksge ez a magyarnak, melyet az
elmlt ezerszz vben sem a nemessg, sem
a falusi np nem volt kpes msra elcserlni.
Elnyoms, szegnysg, divat, politika,
idegen krnyezet nem volt kpes si
tulajdonsgait megsemmisteni. (21. kp:
Fiatal pr, Vajdcska, Zempln megye. 22.
kp: Fiatal pr, frfi ezstpityks, zsinrs
mentben, Szolnok, Szolnok megye.)
Az egyes vidkek npviselete vltozott az
vszzadok folyamn, de a legsibb magyar
ruhadarabokat mindenki viselte a Dunamedencben. A beteleptett szsz, flamand,
kun s svb fajok, a beszivrg romnok s
szlvok mind a magyar viseletformkba
ltztek. gy tnik, hogy a Duna mentn
ittlte ta a npviseletre a magyarsg szabott
trvnyt, semmint hogy mstl kapott volna
alapvet tleteket. A magyar viselet s
hmzs keleti emlkei ma is hdtanak a
krnyez npek krben, akik meg vannak
rla gyzdve, hogy az sajtjuk.
Egyes vidkek viseletnek lersa helyett itt
nhny si, a magyarsg krben kedvelt,
ruhadarab kerl bemutatsra.
A magyar np egyik legsibb ruhadarabja a
SZR. (23. kp: Cifraszr, Bihar. 24. kp:
Hortobgyi csiks cifraszrben.) zsiai
eredet s tbbezerves mltja van. Egy
tbb mint 1500 ves perzsa kreliefen is
lthat. Vllravetve viseli tulajdonosa,
akrcsak a magyar frfiak. (25. kp: Egy
md frfi szrben. Perzsa brzols egy
kreliefen, Persepolis.) Szent Istvn
trvnyei is megemltik a gyapjszvket,
illetve szrtakcsokat. A magyar paraszt
illetve psztor legfontosabb ruhadarabja:
felltje, vdelme a nap, szl s hideg ellen,
jszaka prnja s takarja. Ez dszruhja is,
templomba, eskvre csak szrben illet
menni. Az egsz Krpt-medencben

viseltk.
Szabsa 12 egyenes tglalap alak darabbl
ll. Anyaga birkaszrbl (rackajuh) vert
srgsfehr szrposzt vagy abaposzt. A
szkelyek aba-kpenyegnek nevezik.
ltalban hmzssel, piros vagy fekete
rtttel dsztik. A rttes mintk Belszsira utalnak. (26. kp: Gallros szr
szabsa elrl s htulrl, Karcag,
Nagykunsg. 27. kp: Szr szabsmintja.
Kisjszlls, Szolnok megye, XX. szzad
eleje.)
A fldig r SUBA szintn si, zsiai
eredet ruhadarab. (28. kp: Frfi, hmzett
templombajr subban, Decs, Tolna
megye. 29. kp: Bogyiszli frfiak subban.)
A British mzeumban rgi ephtalita
rmeken ugyanolyan subk lthatk mint a
magyarok. Nlunk frfiak s kisebb
mrett nk is hordanak, gyszintn
nemzetisgeink krben is elterjedt. Magyar
falusi gazdaember nem lehet suba nlkl.
Brmilyen drga, a hzasuland legnynek
be kell szereznie. Egsz letben bszkn
viseli a tekintly e jelkpt. Tlen a szrvel
befel fordtott suba a kocsinl embert
fagy, h ellen vdi, melegben j
kocsilsnek. Nyron kifordtva hvsen
tart. Psztorok kunyh, takar s prnaknt
is hasznljk.
A subt kizrlag magyar szcsk ksztik,
melynek szabsa s sszelltsa
krlmnyes. Alakja kitertve krformj, 712 birka brbl kszl, a gallrja is egy
termszetes llatbrbl van. A szcsk
hagyomnyos, gynyr hmzssel dsztik a
subt. (30. kp: Frfi-suba kitertett vzlata.
Fels kp: ugyane suba vllhmzse, Gyula,
Bks megye. 31. kp: Kecskemti irhs
suba szabsa, alatta fekete birkabrgallr.)
A KDMN is keleti rksgnk. (32. kp:
Frfi kdmn hta. A felletet piros s zld

br rtt tagolja, a kertett mezket hmzs

tlti ki. 33. kp: Ni kdmon hta. Dsztse
irhartt s hmzs. Cignd, Zempln
megye.) Egsz zsiban viselik. A rackajuh,
nha kecske szrms brbl ksztik.
Magyarorszg egsz terletn minden rend
s rang n s frfi hasznlta ezt a gazdagon
hmzssel vagy rtttel dsztett ujjas kabt
flt. Klmn kirly trvnyileg tiltotta meg
a papoknak a dszes kdmn viselst. De
hiba, mert a papok sem tudtak lemondani
szp rksgkrl. Az vszzadok folyamn
mg tbbszr is meg kellett nekik tiltani a
kdmn viselst. Mtys kirly 8000
darabot csinltatott serege szmra. Vgvri
katonk menteknt hasznltk. A
kznpnek, fleg az asszonyoknak kedvelt
viselete mind a mai napig.
A SZOKMNY vastag szrke, barna vagy
fekete posztbl kszlt zsinros kabt.
Szintn zsiai eredet s ma is hasznljk
mindentt. Eurpban valsznleg a
magyarok terjesztettk el. Nlunk fleg
Erdlyben panykra vetve, vagy ujjba
bjva viselik. (34. kp: Szkely szokmny.
35. kp: Szokmny kitertve. Szk, SzolnokDoboka megye, 1914.)
Az ING s GATYA si viselett is Keletrl
hozta magval a magyarsg. Egyenes
tglalap alak vszondarabokbl kszltek.
A derkban ersen rncolt gatya
termszetesen tbb szlbl van. A
kalotaszegi frfi ing mg ma is ilyen
egyenes szabs: eleje, hta s ujjai egy-egy
ngyszg alak lapbl kszl. A honfoglals
korban b, hossz fels inget (imeg,
felimeg, mg, fersing, pendely, bikla)
vvel a derkhoz szortva viselhettek a nk.
Erre kerlt a XIII. szzadban a rncos
szoknya. (36. kp: Egyenes szabs frfi
ingek, Trkny, Bihar, Kalotaszeg s Szk,
Erdly. 37. kp: Mell varrott s bevarrott
ujj ni ingek, Palcfld, Bihar s
Kalotaszeg. 38. kp: A bgatya szabsa. 39.

kp: bgatya /Csongrd/ s vszonnadrg

/Szatmr/ szabsa.)
A npi viselet fontos kiegszti a ktny,
fejdszek, lbbeli (csizma, cip, papucs) s
kszerek. (40. kp: Palc fktk s
csizmk.)
Npnk si s egyben legszebb viselett
Kalotaszeg magyar npe rizte meg. Errl
Ks Kroly gy r 1932-ben Kalotaszeg cm
knyvben:
Kalotaszeg npnek egszen eredeti
szabs, formj s anyag frfi, asszony s
gyermek ruhaviselete csudaszmba men
mdon tartotta meg mai napig teljes
gazdagsgban si formjt, mellyel
msflezeresztendvel ezeltt vndortjra
megindult... ez a viselet szabsban,
konstrukcijban, s pedig gy vonalbeli,
mint sznbeli kompozcijban semmifle
eurpai - st ma mr taln zsiai - np
ruhaszabshoz nem hasonlatos... A
kalotaszegi npviselet egyes, lnyeges
darabjaiban, s taln szszessgben,
amennyire azt ma ellenrizni lehet,
megegyezik kzpzsiai lovas nomd npek
egykor viseletvel... A dloroszorszgi u.n.
szittya-kszobrok szrje s prge kalapja a
mai szr s prge kalap msa. s szrt nem
visel, - a magyaron kvl, - a vilg egyetlen
npe sem. A hegyes orr, puhaszr csizma
minden idk zsiai lovas npnek lbbelije
volt, de kzptengeri npek sohasem
viseltk. ppen gy a nyri frfiviselet b
vszon gatyjt s kurta ingt sem. A
kalotaszegi ni viselet legjellemzbb
darabjt, a muszujt, vagy bagazit pedig a
vilgon ezenkvl csupn az Uralhegyek
egyik trk-fajta npnek asszonyai viseltk
nemrgen mg. A kalotaszegi magyarsg
gazdag npi ruhatrnak egyetlen darabjt,
egyetlen dszt formjt sem vette t az t
kzvetlenl krnyez, vagy vele keverten
egyttlak s sok szz esztend ta

llandan rintkez romn nptl, illetleg a

kzje teleptett flandriai parasztoktl.
Viszont az npviseletnek tbb darabjt,
talaktva, tvettk a kztte s krltte l
romnok. A flandriaiak,
elmagyarosodsukkal prhuzamosan
tvettk a kalotaszegi magyar viseletet is, a
magukt egszen elhagytk. Szinte
bizonyos, hogy a mai kalotaszegi magyar
npviselet egykor egsz Erdly, st taln
Magyarorszg magyarsgnak is viselete
volt. (41. kp: Kalotaszegi frfi hmzett
brmellnyben, egyenes szabs ingben s
gatyban. 42. kp: Kalotaszegi
mennyasszony dulndl-val a fejn, fehr
hmzett ingben, fehr rncos szoknyban,
hmzett brmellesben s dszes ktnyben.)
Hlval tartozunk Kalotaszeg magyar
npnek, hogy ragaszkodik egyedlll
viseletk si hagyomnyaihoz, s megrztt
szmunkra valamit a magyar rgmlt
szpsgbl.
Kerkay Emese

ORIGIN AND HISTORY OF THE

HUNGARIAN DRESS

5. Bundk - Fur coats

2. Nemesek - Noble
Lady & Gentleman

6/b. Pityks fi mellny

- Boy's Vest

10. Polgr mentben Burgher in "Mente"

8. Gcsej: regasszony
- Old Woman

11/b. IV. Lszl rajz/drawing

The culture and

history of a nation
can be deduced
through its
national and folk
attire. The
Hungarian
national costume
truly reflects the
nation's history of
thousands of
years.

14. II. Jzsef - Emperor

Joseph II

16. Mennyasszony Bride

18. Hmzett ruha Embroidered Dress

20. Udvarhlgy
aprddal - Lady and
Page

The Turanian
people - Hungarians included - of Eurasia
were not only skilled warriors, but were well
organized, had a legal system and advanced
artistic culture. Not only did they influence
the development of Asian culture but the
European as well. One of the most important
and valuable contributions to Europe's
culture was their fashion and style,
combined with decorative arts they brought.
(Fig. 1: Kalotaszeg/Transylvania Couple.
The girl is wearing a beaded headdress
/prta/ and turned up skirt. Fig. 2: Noble
lady and gentleman. Their dresses are richly
embroidered in gold. 18th century.)
The Hun princes, who played a great role in
history, are recognized from metal reliefs.
On these we can observe, that their clothing
show an astonishing resemblance to the
ancient Hungarian attire, which was partly
preserved up to the 20. century in the
costumes of the nobility and the peasants.
In the Hermitage at St. Petersburg the figure
of a 4th century Hunnish prince can be seen
on a silver plate, riding a horse shooting
arrows backwards. (Fig. 3: A Hun prince on
horseback.) His attire looks exactly like the
one Hungarian noblemen wore later on fashion, cut and small details included. His
knee-long doublet (dolmny), fastened with
a belt, is the same as are the tight fitting

trousers and high boots. The clasp on his

hat, the brooch, the belt, the edge of his
boots and the harness show how those small
metal pieces found in great abundance in
1100 year old Hungarian graves were used.
Even his mustache looks like the one
Hungarian men still favorize.
In the 11th or 12th century Anonymus
mentions in his chronicle that in the "old
country" there was such an abundance of
martens, that not only noblemen, but even
shepherds, cow- and swineherds decorated
their clothing with fur. The ancient
Hungarians dressed mainly in leather. Their
trousers, boots, coats, fur hats, caps, belts,
sabre-taches, saddles and the tasseled
harnesses were all made of leather. (Fig. 4:
Body guard with leopard skin cape. 18th
century. Fig. 5: Various kinds of Hungarian
fur coats, 19th century.) Buttons, clasps,
rosettes, coins and buckle trimmings were
found together with leather remnants in
graves from the 9th to 11th centuries, the
time when the last wave of Hungarians
arrived in the Carpathian Basin. In various
regions, men are still wearing vests richly
decorated with metal buttons. - The
Hungarians introduced the button in Europe.
- (Fig. 6/a: Man in vest decorated with metal
buttons, Ngrd county. Fig. 6/b: Boys
vest, 19th century. Property of American
Hungarian Museum.) It has to be mentioned
that the Hungarians still like to wear leather
and fur. The kaczagny (wild animal skin
thrown loosely over the shoulder), the
kdmn, bekecs and suba (made of
sheepskin) were used for the past eleven
centuries.
Our ancestors knew the art of tanning and
bootmaking, had skilled furriers and
saddlers. They knew how to make felt or
szr-cloth, which they used for their tents,
blankets, carpets and clothing. They wove
linen for their underwear and lighter

clothing like shirts, trousers (gatya). The

women wore two ankle long chemises
fastened with a belt, the top one being
decorated with embroidery. The women in
Hungary are called fehrnp (white people)
because they dressed in white linens. Even
today there are regions where the folk
costumes are completely white: Ormnsg,
Cskly, Barcasg, Torock, Gcsej. (Fig.
7: Woman of Ormnsg, dressed in white
homespun linnen. Fig. 8: Old womans
white dress from Gcsej.) In some regions
they dress in white for weddings, in others
for funerals. They carried bathtubs even to
camp to keep themselves and all their white
clothing clean. This was mentioned by
Byzantine and German chroniclers as a
peculiarity. The Byzantines also liked and
adopted the Hungarian "kabt" coat
(khabad) and "mente" (mandyae). (Fig. 9:
Aristocrat in red velvet "mente" decorated
with fur and gold passementerie, early 19th
century. Fig. 10: A burgher in a fur
decorated "mente", 19th century.)
When Christianity was introduced in
Hungary, ancient religion and customs were
forbidden and persecuted. Therefore for
some time the beautiful and rich clothing
brought from the East, was abandoned by
the nobility, but never by the peasants. After
a while, the upper classes returned to
wearing the traditional attire, which was still
very close to their heart and soul. In the 11th
century, as can be seen on a stone relief in
the Cathedral of Pcs, Hungarian gentlemen
wore shirts embroidered with beads, a coat
thrown over the shoulder (mente) with
clasps, peaked caps, embroidered leather or
fur jackets (kdmn), and high boots.
During the last thousand years, several
decrees were issued, which prohibited the
wearing of those extraordinarily expensive
clothes, dear to all the people.
In the 13th century, after the Mongol

invasion, Cumanians settled in Hungary.

Their vestments had a great influence on
Hungarians, mainly because King Lszl IV
(1272-1290) wore them also. (Fig. 11/a:
King Lszl IV dressed in Cumanian
vestment. Miniature from the
"Kpeskrnika", 1358. Fig. 11/b: King
Lszl, a drawing by Mria Undi.) The
typical Cumanian - and most probably old
Hungarian - garment reached to the ground,
was tightly fitted around the waist, and
gathered at the hips. Some folk costumes
still resemble this outfit. Women started to
wear the heavily pleated skirts in this period.
During the Anjou-era in the 14th century
distinguished foreigners were attracted to
the Hungarian court. They took such a fancy
to the Hungarian attire, that they not only
wore it, but made it also fashionable abroad.
In the past thousand years the typical
Hungarian men's attire consisted of the
dolmny (doublet, a tight fitting jacket),
(Fig. 12: Short sleeved doublet, showing
embroidered shirt sleeves, tight trousers,
buttoned on the bottom. Early 17th
century.), tight trousers resembling
stockings, boots, mente (mantle), kaczagny
(the skin of a tiger, panther or wolf), fur cap
decorated with a rosette and a bird feather.
(Fig. 13: Gala dress of a Hungarian general:
dolmny, mente, kaczagny, metal belt,
early 18th century. Fig. 14: Emperor Joseph
II (1780-1790) as a child in a Hungarian
Gala Dress.)
In the past millennium the lasting pieces of
women's clothing were: under and over-shirt
with pleated sleeves (embroidered or
decorated with beads), a tight-fitting,
heavily decorated vest, long pleated skirt
with lace or velvet borders, an apron also
decorated with lace or embroidery. (Fig. 15:
Ladys attire of 1861, consisting of crinoline
skirt, laced bodice, lace pinafore and a wide

mantle, all richly decorated with braiding.

Fig. 16: Noble ladys wedding dress, 1687.)
The women also wore the mente, fur coats
and hats, richly decorated headdresses. Girls
didn't cover their hair but wore a prta, a
beautiful crown-like headdress. It is
interesting, that these garments were worn
by the upper and lower classes alike. The
difference was only noticeable in the quality
of the fabric and execution.
Much attention was paid to the harmony of
color and decoration. This is the reason why
folk costumes and the clothing of the upper
classes alike are so picturesque and tasteful.
(Fig. 17: Esterhzy Lszls mente, 17th
century. Fig. 18: Esterhzy Orsolyas richly
embroidered dress, 17th century.)
On pictures of all ages we can distinctly
notice, that Hungarians liked tight-fitting
garments, which emphasized their slender
build and small waist. (Fig. 19: Hungarian
royal couple from a Szkely mural painting.
13th century. Fig. 20: A lady-in-waiting and
her page from a noble family, 16th century.
The attire of the upper classes was very
colorful. Black was only used in deep
mourning.

HUNGARIAN FOLK ATTIRE

29. Suba - Bogyiszl

22. Bszke pr - Proud
Couple, Szolnok

31. Suba szabsmintja

- Pattern

24. Szr - Hortobgy

33. Kdmn

27. Szr szabsminta Pattern

35. Szokmny rajza Pattern

The Hungarian
folk costume
shows a great
diversity and
changes from
37. Ni ingek region to region,
Women's Shirts
even village to
village. However,
many pieces of
the ancient attire
are still used in
39. Gatya
every part of
historical
Hungary. This
common trait can
be attributed to
the basic character
of the Hungarian
race. Undi Mria
writes: "Their
seriousness and
dignified bearing
demands a closefitting,
unobtrusive form.
The peasant dress
41. Frfi - Man,
has therefore to be
Kalotaszeg
worn the same
way by everyone
according to rules. It has to be put on tightly
and straight. If the attire slips or is loose or
baggy, it is regarded as a great indecency.
Individual ideas, picturesque looseness, or
ingenious caprice, which make the dresses
of the Latin people so charming, are entirely
unknown and unacceptable among the
costumes of the Hungarian people.
Therefore the peasant dresses are neat, even
stiff, like a uniform. A peasant dressed in his
best clothes thinks himself to be a beautiful
statue, and takes great care to be dressed
tidy and correctly. If painted or
photographed, he would not bend or move;
he likes to see himself statuesque and stiff.
Consequently our peasant attire is
constructively designed and is

architecturally beautiful. It is picturesque

because of brightness, harmony of color and
decoration. This architectural design suits
exactly the soldierly appearance of the folk,
and entirely expresses their psychological
and physical world. Their self-consciousness
and pride is emphasized by their love of
pomp. The people spend more on their
clothes than they can afford." (Fig. 21:
Young couple, Vajdcska, Zempln county.
Fig. 22: Young couple, groom in braided
mente" with silver buttons, Szolnok,
Szolnok county.)
This peculiar trait of the Hungarians is a
tradition brought from the East and nothing
could change this in the past thousand years.
Oppression, poverty, fashion, political
trends, alien surroundings were not able to
alter this ancient characteristic of the people.
The Hungarian folk costumes of the
different regions changed over the centuries.
However there were some garments which
were worn throughout the Carpathian-basin.
It seems that Hungarians dictated the trend
in folk attire to the other ethnic inhabitants
in this geographical area. Instead of
describing the different regional folk
costumes, some of the favorite pieces, worn
by everybody, will here be presented.
The SZR is an ancient type coat with
origins in Asia. (Fig. 23: Richly
embroidered Szr, Bihar. Fig. 24: Horseherd in embroidered Szr from Hortobgy,
Great Plain.) It can be seen on a Persian
relief of nearly 2000 years. Its owner wears
the szr thrown over the shoulder the same
way Hungarian men do. (Fig. 25: The Szr
on a Persian stone relief, Persepolis.) King
St. Stephen (997-1038) already mentions in
his laws the wool-weavers who made the
felt for the szr. It is the most important
piece of clothing of the Hungarian peasant
and shepherd. The szr served as coat,

protection against the sun, wind and cold, at

night it was his pillow and cover. It was also
his Sunday best worn to church and
weddings.
The design of the szr is simple, consisting
of 12 straight cut felt pieces. The natural
colored felt is woven of sheep's wool (racka
sheep). It is lavishly decorated with
embroidery and felt-applique, a design and
technique with roots in Inner-Asia. (Fig. 26:
The front and back of a Szr pattern,
Karcag. Fig. 27: Pattern of a szr,
Kisjszlls, Great Plain, early 20th
century.)
The SUBA is as old as the szr and also of
Asian origin, as can be seen on old Ephtalite
medals in the British Museum. They look
the same as those worn today by men and
women in Hungary. (Fig. 28: Suba from
Decs, Tolna county. Fig. 29: Men from
Bogyiszl wearing a Suba.) No matter how
expensive a suba is, a young man must get
one when he marries. He will wear it
proudly for the rest of his life. The suba
protects his owner against cold, frost, snow,
and the heat of the sun. Shepherds use it as a
shelter or blanket.
The suba has a complicated cut and is made
exclusively by Hungarian furriers. When
laid out it is round in shape, and requires up
to 12 sheepskins. The ornamentation of the
suba consists of exquisitely embroidered
stylized flower-groups, which are in
harmony with the shape and flow of this
extraordinary garment. (Fig. 30: A laid out
Suba, Gyula, Bks county. Top: Shoulder
embroidery of the same Suba. Fig. 31:
Pattern of a Suba from Kecskemt, Great
Plain.)
The KDMN also has its roots in Asia,
where it is still widely worn. (Fig. 32: Back
of a mans Kdmn decorated with applique

and embroidery, Pszt, Heves county. Fig.

33: Back of a womans Kdmn with
applique and embroidery decoration,
Cignd, Zempln county.) It is a coat made
of the skin of the Hungarian racka-sheep.
The kdmn richly decorated with
embroidery and leather applique was and is
favored by men and women alike in every
part of Hungary. King Klmn (1100-1116)
prohibited by law that priest wear the
extremely fancy kdmn, yet King Mtys
(1458-1490) ordered 8000 pieces for his
army. During and after the Turkish
occupation, soldiers used them as a mente,
thrown over their shoulders.
The SZOKMNY is an ancient, tightly
fitting short coat of the peasant attire. It is
made of rough, home-woven frieze or szrfelt, dyed brown, gray or black. Most
probably the Hungarians introduced this
garment in Europe. Today it is mainly worn
in Transylvania. (Fig. 34: Transylvanian
Szkely Szokmny. Fig. 35: Pattern of a
Szokmny, Szk, Transylvania, 1914.)
Beside the above-mentioned overcoats, the
Hungarians also brought into Europe the
SHIRT and GATYA (pleated linen
trousers). The men's, and womens shirts
were made of straight cut linen pieces. The
gatya is heavily pleated at the waist and
favored by the Hungarian peasant
everywhere, especially in summer.
At the time of the conquest the women wore
long under and upper shirts fastened with a
belt. The pleated skirt was added in the 13th
century. Today a peasant woman's attire
consists of, a shirt, several petticoats,
pleated skirt, embroidered vest, apron and
large kerchief, belt, headdress, footwear
(boots, shoes, slippers), handkerchief and
jewelry.
(Fig. 36: Strait cut mens shirts from

Trkny, Bihar, Kalotaszeg and Szk,

Transylvania. Fig. 37: Patterns of wide
sleeved shirts, Palc region, Bihar,
Kalotaszeg. Fig. 38: Pattern of the gatya.
Fig. 39: The patterns of a gatya, Csongrd
and linen pants from Szatmr. Fig. 40:
Bonnets and boots from the Palc region.)
The Hungarian people of Kalotaszeg,
Transylvania, preserved the most beautiful
and ancient type folk costume. 1000 years
ago it was used not only in Transylvania but
also probably everywhere in Hungary. It is
the attire of an ancient horsemen culture.
Even the skirts (muszuly) of the women
were designed for riding. The costume is
unique in cut, construction, line and color
composition, and cannot be compared to any
other European clothing. Over the centuries
all influence for change was rejected. We
can be thankful to the people of Kalotaszeg
who preserved a piece of the Hungarian past
of long ago. (Fig. 41: Mens traditional folk
costume from Kalotaszeg, Transylvania.
Fig. 42: A bride from Kalotaszeg.)
Emese Kerkay

Used literature/Forrs:

Undi Mria, Hungarian Fancy Needlework and Weaving (Magyar

hmvarr mvszet), Budapest

Kdmn disztmny

Pictures:
Undi Mria, Hungarian Fancy Needlework and Weaving, Budapest
Czak Elemr, ed., A magyarsg trgyi nprajza, I.-II. Budapest
Hoffer-Fl, Magyar Npmvszet, Budapest, 1994
A szerz fnykpei s levelezlapok / Photographs by the author and postcards