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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

We are extremely delighted to express our indebtedness and deepest


sense of gratitude to our supervisor
Md. Dewan Mahbub
Kamran(Sr.Executive, Dyeing).for his able guidance, untiring efforts,
stimulating influence and valuable comments during the training period .
We would like to offer sincere thank to the DGM (Dyeing) Engr. Md.
Shamim Rahman for his invaluable suggestions regarding this training
period.
The authority of the VIYELLATEX GROUP who gave us the opportunity to
complete our industrial attachment with great success is remembered
with honor. Thanks are due to all Engineers, officers, technicians,
employees, stuffs, all section in-charges for their cordial behavior. We are
really lucky that we have gotten such helping hand without whom, this
attachment could not be completed.
We also like to thank Dr. Shah Mohammad Fatah-ur-Rahman,
department of Wet Processing Technology for his encouragement, valuable
suggestion, and for the completion of this Industrial attachment
successfully.
Last but not least, thanks goes to my precious family for their neverending support and loves in every stages of my life which has motivated
me to do such type work.

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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
The internationally recognized Buyers or clients are looking for those
countries for producing their apparel products where different types of
mills have established as a one stop source for the global apparel
market, satisfy and meet customer's expectation by developing and
providing products and services on time, which offer value in terms of
Quality, Price, Safety & Environmental impact. And also assure
complete compliance with the international quality standards and also
to
provide
the
employees
internationally acceptable working
condition/standards. In Bangladesh, there are different types of Textile
Industry those are producing high quality textile and apparel product.
VIYELLATEX GROUP is one of them.
VIYELLATEX GROUP is a Knit Composite Garments, having all state of the
art facilities with the annual turnover US$ 106.6 Million (2006-2007). They
have different types of Knitting, Dyeing, Cutting, Sewing, and Finishing
machines supplied by mostly Germany, Japan, Taiwan, China, U.K, U.S.A,
Singapore, etc. which are very latest. It has high production where 30
Metric tons of dyed and finished fabrics are produced per day. The
production is controlled by technical persons. All of the decision makers of
production sector in VIYELLATEX GROUP are textiles graduates. All the
chemicals and dyes use for dyeing and finishing are well branded.
They produce their product for their buyer and client those are coming
from international market like U.K, Sweden, Netherland, France, U.S.A,
Germany and Spain. Their customer profile is big and top end such as
Esprit, M&S, S-Oliver, Puma, G-star, Gap, Tesco and Grew waver etc. They
follow all the system for their machines maintenance so production can
not hamper.
In this report, we have tried to give some information about VIYELLATEX
GROUP and we have observed that VIYELLATEX GROUP produce high
quality fabric and fulfill the special requirements from the different types
of buyers by following different internationally recommended standard
method.

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INTRODUCTION
The industrial attachment is the process, which builds
understanding, skills and attitude of the performer, which improves his
knowledge in boosting productivity and services. University education
provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical
attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachment helps us to be
familiar with technical support of modern machinery, skillness about
various processing stages.
By means of practical knowledge its not possible to apply the
theoretical knowledge in the practical field. For any technical education,
practical experience is almost equal important in association with the
theoretical knowledge.
It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production
management, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing,
utility and maintenance of machinery and their operation techniques etc.
the above mentioned can not be achieved successfully by means of
theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with
practical knowledge in which it is based on. Industrial attachment makes
us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and improve
courage and inspiration to take self responsibility.
Textile education cant be completed without industrial training.
Because this industrial training minimizes the gap between theoretical and
practical knowledge and make us accustomed to industrial environment. I
got an opportunity to complete two-months long industrial training at
VIYELLATEX GROUP, which is a 100% export-oriented composite Knit
Dyeing Industry. It has well planned & equipped fabric dyeing-finishing and
garments units in addition to facilitate knitting and knitwear
manufacturing.
.

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TABLE OF CONTENT
TOPIC

TOPIC NAME

PAGE NUMBER

NUMBER
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08

GENERAL INFORMATION
KNITTING SECTION
BATCH SECTION
LAB SECTION
DYEING SECTION
FINISHING SECTION
INSPECTION SECTION
GARMENTS SECTION

5-11
12-40
41-43
44-59
60-98
99-121
122-124
125-137

09
10
11
12
13
14

WASHING SECTION
PRINTING SECTION
EMBROIDERY SECTION
MAINTENANCE SECTION
UTILITY SECTION
CONCLUSION

138-146
147-153
154-157
158-163
164-175
176-177

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GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE FACTORY


Name of Company

Factory:

VIYELLATEX GROUP.

VIYELLATEX GROUP.
297 Khortoil, Tongi,
Gazipur-1712.,Dhaka
Bangladesh.
Tel : 880-2-9813001, Ext: 110
Fax : 880-2-9811400
http//www.viyellatexgroup.com

VIYELLATEX LTD. is a well established knit composite industry. The industry


stands on industrial area of Gazipur. VIYELLATEX GROUP. is a Group of Companies,
Viyella spinning, Youngones fashion LTD. Viyella knitting and dyeing~ VIYELLATEX
LTD. is going to prove its own standard about product quality in world market as they know
that their reputation depends on its quality. VIYELLATEX LTD. is a profitable project and
contributes the economy of our country.

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LAYOUT FOR GOING TO THE VIYELLATEX FROM DHAKA

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PROJECT DESCRIPTION
Name of the Company : VIYELLATEX GROUP
Status : Private Ltd. Company
Type : 100% Export oriented composite knit
Dyeing
Year of establishment : 2001
year of starting production : 2002
Location : Gazipura, Tongi
Address:
Factory: 297, Khortoli, Tongi, Gazipur-1712
Head Office : 297, Khortoli, Tongi, Gazipur-1712
Tel : No: 88192812
Fax No: 880-2-8810445
E-mail: www.viyellatexgroup.com
Sponsors :Mr. Rezaul Hasnat
Product Mix

100% cotton
100% polyester
Spun
Filament
Nylon
Chief Value Cotton (CVC)
Polyester Cotton (PC)
Grey melange (15% Voscose 85% cotton)
10% Voscose 90% cotton
Ash melange (1% Viscose 99% cotton)

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Different Departments of VIYELLATEX knit dyeing


composite unit
a) knitting Section:
Knitting
Inspection
b) Dyeing section:
Batch section
Dye house
Dyeing lab.
Quality control
Finishing
c) Garments section:
Merchandising
Sample
Cutting Section
Sewing Section
Finishing Section
d) Maintenance section:
Electrical
Mechanical
e) Store Section
f) Administration Section
g) Security Section
h) Marketing Section
i) Production Planning & Control
j) Human Resource & Development Section

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VIYELLATEX GROUP INFORMATION:


Nature of company: 100% Export Oriented Knit composite Factory.
Certification
:
FARE TRADE
As a textile conglomerate having, 40320 spindle
spinning. Given by, FLOCERT GmbH of Germany in
2007.
Qualify Certification:

ISO 9002
Marks & Spencer
NANOTEX
TUV
DuPont Teflon
Puma
DOTS by Cu (Control union)
OE by CU (Control Union)

Award:

BGMEA Gold Medal-2007.


For Outstanding performance on corporate social
Responsibility & knit export.
Bangladesh Business Person-2007
Organized by DHL & the Daily Star.
PVH Gold Medal 2007
For in time shipmen of qualify goods.
CSR Award 2008
By Standard Chartered bank & Financial Express
& so many from nation & international bodies.

Turn Over:Viyellatex Garments


Viyellatex Fabrics
ISML
FPPL
VSL

US$
US$
US$
US$
US$

41.5 Million
30.0 Million
15.5 Million
o1.6 Million
18.0 Million

(2006-2007)
(2006-2007)
(2006-2007)
(2006-2007)
(2006-2007)

Buyer:
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Name of The Buyer


Marks & Spencer
S.Oliver
Tesco
Gap
Puma
Esprit
G-Star
PVH
Woolworths
Celio
Abercrombie& Fitch
Gerry Weber

Country
U.K
Germany
U.K
U.S.A
Germany
Germany
Netherland
U.S.A
France
U.S.A
Germany

.
CSRP:
Run ETP to treat dyeing water before release to environment Donate Blood
transfusion Thalassaemia Hospital.
Donated Kidney Dialysis Machine by Rotary Club Dhaka North-West.
Scholarship to meritorious students.
A Local school runs by Viyellatex Welfare Trust.
Projected 80 bedded general Hospital.
Carbon Footprint Project by BASF.
Reuse of Generator exhaust to run chiller & Boiler.
Preserve Rain water.
Free Eye Camp & health Campaigns for local community.
+ Take part on others social & national activates, disaster etc.

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Sources of mellange:
Patartoli
Prime
Shohag pur
Thermax
Sources of polyester:
Kader Synthetic.
China.
Count: 75den, 100den, 150den.
Sources of Lycra:
* Brand
: Roica
Country : Taiwan.
* Brand
: Texlon
Country : Korea.
*Brand
: Acelen
Country: China
*Brand
: Creora
Country: Japan
*Brand
: Lioli (In Viyellatex used mostly)
Country: China
Count: 20 den, 40 den, 70 den.
Price list of different types of yarn:
Cotton:
Yarn Count
40/1
34/1
32/1
30/1
28/1
26/1
24/1
22/1
20/1

Combed Yarn
3.65 $/Kg
3.00 $/Kg
2.90 $/Kg
2.70 $/Kg
2.70 $/Kg
2.65 $/kg
2.60 $/Kg
2.55 $/Kg
2.50 $/Kg

Carded Yarn
2.65-2.7 $/Kg
2.5-2.6 $/Kg
2.30 $/Kg
2.30 $/Kg
2.25 $/Kg
2.25 $/Kg
2.25 $/Kg
2.20 $/Kg
2.15-2.2 $/Kg

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Organogram of Knitting Section


DGM / AGM

Manager /Asst. Manager (Production & Plan)(02)

Manager/
(Technical)
Asst. Manager(01)

Sr. Executive (Production, Plan & Sample)(02)


Sr. Feeder/Feeder(07)
Executive / Jr. Executive (Prod. & Sample)(05)
Asst. Feeder(04)
Sr. Supervisor/Supervisor(06)
Sr. Operator/Operator(135)

Sample Supervisor(02)
Needle Man(03)
Sample Asst.(05)
Servicing Man(06)

Asst. Operator(33)
Servicing Helper(06)
Production Helper(21)

Manager / Asst. Manager (Store)(01)


Sr. Executive / Executive (02)

Jr. Executive (Yarn)(02)


Store Asst.(Yarn)(03)
Loader (Yarn)(26)

Jr. Executive (Grey Fabric)(03)


Store Asst.(Grey Fabric)(07)
Batch Helper/Loader (35)

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KNITTING:
KNITTING IS THE PROCESS OF PRODUCING A FABRIC BY FORMING A
SERIES OF CONNECTED LOOPS FROM A SERIES OF YARN. IN THIS
METHOD FABRIC IS PRODUCED BY INTERMESHING OF LOOPS.

KNITTING TYPES:
warp knitting: each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a
different thread and the number of threads used to produce such a
fabric is at least equal to the number of loops in a horizontal row.

Weft knitting: a horizontal row of loops can be made using one


thread and the thread runs in horizontal direction.

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Raw Material for Knitting


The raw material for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide
range of count are used. In yarn store section we had the chance to know
about different yarns of different count used in \/IYELLA TEX knitting. We
also have known different yarn manufacturer/suppliers name for this
knitting section i.e. sources of yarn. Both carded and combed yarn is used
for knitting.

Cotton

24S, 26s,30S,

32S,34S,40S
Polyester

75D, lO0D

Spandex yarn

20D,40D, 70D

Grey Mlange (C

24S,26S

Ecru Mlange (C-85% V-15%) 24S,26S,28S


Anthra Mlange (C-65% V-35%)

24S,26S,28S

PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton)24S,26S,28S,30S


CVC

24S,26S,28S,30S

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Knitting section is divided in four sections,


1.
2.
3.
4.
I.

Inspection section
Flat knitting section
Circular Knitting section
Store section

Cloth Inspection Section:

In cloth inspection section two machines are available. Specification of


those machines is given below
Type
Cloth Inspection Machine
Manufacturer name
Uzu fabric Inspection
County
Thailand
Model No.
UZ 900.31
2. Flat Knitting Section:
Generally collar, cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section. In this
section there are 25 flat knitting machines. all of them are same type and
also have same specification. The specification of all machines is given
below:
Type
Automatic Flat knitting machine
Manufacturer name Precision Fukuhara Works Ltd.
Country
Japan
Model No.
\l-100
Gauge
G14

3. Circular Knitting Section:


This section contains 72 circular knitting machines. Circular knitting
machines are of different types, made by different manufacturer and also
have different specifications. In this section body fabric for knitted
garments is produced. The different specifications of different machines
are given one after another
4.

Store section:
In this section knitted fabric and yarns are stored.

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Automatic Flat Bed M/C

Automatic Flat Bed M/C

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Machine List of Knitting Section in Viyellatex :


Machine name
Machine Quantity
Circular Knitting(Single jersey) 32
m/c
Circular Knitting(Rib) m/c
18
Engineering Stripe m/c
08
V-bed Knitting m/c
26
Grey Fabric Inspection m/c
03

Specification of Circular Knitting Machine:

Machine no: 01
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand: Fukuhara (vxc-3s)
Origin: Kobe, Japan
Machine dia &Gauge: 30; 24G
Extra cylinder: 30; 20G
\o of needle: 1860
Machine no: 03
Industrial attachment
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand:
Fukuhara (vxc-3s)
Origin:
Kobe ,Japan
Machine dia &Gauge: 26; 24G
Extra cylinder:
No of needle:
1932
No of feeder: 78
Machine no: 05
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge: 36~ 24G
No of needle: 2712
\o of feeder: 108
Machine no: 07
Machine type: Single jersey(2
truck)
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin: Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:25;24G
No of needle: 1872

Machine no:02
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand : Fukuhara (vxc-3s)
Origin : Kobe, Japan
Machine dia&Gauge:26.24G
No of Needle : 1932
No of feeder : 78
Machine no: 04
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand:
Fukuhara (vxc-3s)
Origin:
Kobe, Japan
Machine dia &Gauge: 30; 24G
Extra cylinder:
No of needle: 2268
No of feeder: 90
Machine no: 06
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:25;24G
No of needle:
1872
No of feeder: 74
Machine no: 08
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand: Pai Lung
Origin: Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:30;28G
Extra cylinder : 33, 24G
No of needle : 2236

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No of feeder: 74
Machine no: 09
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:30;28G
Extra cylinder: 30;24G
No of needle: 2256
No of feeder: 90
Machine no: 11
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand:
Fukuhara (B.c-3.25)
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:30;24G
No of needle: 2268
No of feeder: 98
Machine no: 13
Machine type: Single jersey
brand: Fukuhara (B.c-3.25)
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:30-24G
No of needle: 2268

No of feeder: 98
Machine no: 15
Machine type: Terrot
Brand:
Terrot
Origin: Germany
Machine dia &Gauge:30:20G
Noofneedle:
1872
No of feeder: 96
Machine no:17
Machine type: Rib
Brand:
Terrot
Origin:
Germany
Machine dia &Gauge:34-18G
No of needle: 3840
No of feeder: 60

Machine no: 10
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand:
Fukuhara (v.c-3.25)
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:30;24G
Extra cylinder: 30;20G
No of needle: 2268
No of feeder: 98
Machine no: 12
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand:
Fukuhara (B.c-3.25)
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:30;24G
No of needle: 2268
No of feeder: 98
14Machine no: 14
Machine type: Fleece
Brand:
Terrot
Origin:
Germany
Machine dia &Gauge:30~20G
Noofneedle:
~872
No of feeder: 96
16. Machine no: 16
Machine type: Rib\Interlock
Brand:
Terrot
Origin:
Germany
Machine dia &Gauge:30;18G
Extra cylinder: 30~22G
No of needle: 3368
No of feeder: 54
Machine no: 18
Machine type: Rib
Brand:
Terrot
Origin:
Germany
Machine dia &Gauge:36; 18G
No of needle : 4080
No of feeder :64

Machine no :19
Machine type : Rib / Interlock
Brand : Terrot
Origin : Germany
Machine dia & Gauge : 36 28G
Extra cylinder : 36` 22G
No of needle : 4080
No of feeler :64

Machine no : 20
Machine type : Single jersey
Brand : Mayer & Cie
Origin : Germany
Machine dia & Gauge : 30: ; 28G
No of needle:980

Machine no: 21

Machine no: 22

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Machine type: Single jersey


Brand:
Mayer & Cie
Origin:
Germany
Machine dia &Gauge:30,28G
Extra cylinder: 30,24G
No of needle: 2640
No of feeder: 96
Machine no: 23
Machine type: Rib
Brand:
Fukuhara (v.er-22)
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:36,18G
No of needle: 4078
No of feeder: 64
Machine no: 25.
Machine type: Rib
Brand:
Fukuhara (v-er-22)
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:36-l8G
No of needle: 4078
No of feeder: 64

Machine type: Rib


Brand:
Fukuhara(V-ER-22)
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:36,18G
No of needle: 4078
No of feeder: 64

Machine no: 27.


Machine type: Rib
Brand:
Pai Lung(pl-xr2b\ce)
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:38,18G
No of needle: 2124
No of feeder: 76

Machine no: 28.


Machine type: Rib
Brand: Pai Lung (pl-xr2b/ce)
Origin: Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:38,18G
No of needle: 2124
No of feeder: 76

Machine no: 29
Machine type: Rib
Brand:
Pai Lung(pl-xr2b\ce)
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:38,18G
No of needle: 2124
No of feeder: 76

Machine no: 30
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:24~24G
No.of needle:
1800
No of feeder: 72

Machine no: 31
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:26;24G
No of needle: 1944
No of feeder: 78
Machine no: 33
Machine type: Single jersey
(Auto Stripe)(pl-xscsl 6)

Machine no: 32.


Machine type: Interlock
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:36,22G
No of needle: 2484
No of feeder: 72
Machine no: 34
Machine type: Single jersey
(Auto Stripe)(pl-xscsl 6)

Machine no: 24.


Machine type: Rib
Brand:
Fukuhara (v-er-22)
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:36,18G
No of needle: 4078
No of feeder: 64
Machine no: 26
Machine type: Rib
Brand:
Pai Lung (pl-xra\ce)
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:3818G
Noofneedle:2160
No of feeder: 76

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Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:30,24G
Extra cylinder: 30,16G
No of needle: 2256
No of feeder: 42x6

Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia
&Gauge:30:24G
Extra cylinder: 3O~16G
No of needle 22~6
No of feeder: 42x6

Machine No. 35
Type Auto striper Double jersey.
Brand
PAL LUNG.
Origin
TAIWAN.
lodJ No PL-XDCS/6-U
Machine Dia: 36
Gauge
18G

Machine No. 37
Type
Fleece
Brand
PAl LUNG.
Type
Single jersey
Brand
PAT LUNG.
Origin
TAIWAN
ModelNo.
PL-XS4BACE.
Machine Dia 36
Gauge
24G
Feeder No. 144

Machine No.
36
TAIWAN
Type
Auto striper Double
jersey
Brand
PA! LUNG.
Origin
TAIWAN.
Model No. PL-XDCSI6-L
Machine Dia 36
Gauge
18G
PL
\F3B-LP
Machine No. 38
Type
Fleece
Brand
PAl LUNG.
Type
Single jersey
Brand
PAT LUNG.
Origin
TAIWAN
ModelNo.
PL-XS4BACE.
Machine Dia 36
Gauge
24G
Feeder No. 144

Machine No. 39
Type
Single jersey
Brand
PAT LUNG.
Origin
TAIWAN
ModelNo.
PL-XS4BACE.
Machine Dia 36
Gauge
24G

Machine No. 40
Tvpc
Single jcrscv.
Brand
PAl LUNG.
Origin
TAIWAN.
Model No. PL-XS4B/AICE
Machine Dia
23
Gauge
24G

Feeder No.

Feeder No.

144

Machine No. 41
Type
Double jersey
Brand
PAl LUNG
Machine Dia
38
Gauge
18G
Feeder No. 76

78

Machine No. 42
Tvpe
Doublc jersey.
Brand
PAI- LUNG.
Origin:
TAIWAN
Dia
38
Gauge
I 8G
Fccdcr No. 76

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Machine no: 43
Machine type: Single jersey.
Brand: Fukuhara
Origin: Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:30x20
No of feeder: 98

Machine no: 44
Machine type: Single jersey.
Brand:
Fukuhara
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:30x20
No of feeder: 98

Machine no: 45
Machine type: Single jersey.
Brand:
Fukuhara
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:30x20
No of feeder: 98

Machine no: 46
Machine type: Single jersey.
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:36x24
No of needle: 2850
No of feeder: 144
Machine no: 48
Machine type: Single jersey.
Brand:
Fukuhara
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:30x24
No of feeder: 98

Machine no: 47

Machine type: Single jersey.

Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:36x24
No of needle: 2850
No of feeder:
144
Machine no: 49
Machine type: Single jersey(Auto
stripe)
Brand: Pai Lung
Origin: Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge: 3 0x247
No of needle:2256
No of feeder: 42x6

Machine no: 51
Machine type: Rib(Auto stripe)
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin: Taiwan
Machine dia
&Gauge:36x1 8
No of needle:2040

No of feeder54x6
Machine no: 53
Machine type: Single
jersey (Auto stripe)
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia & gauge : 30x24
industrial attachment
No opf needle : 2256
no of feeder 42x6

Machine no: 50
Machine type Single
jersey(Auto strip)
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gawie:30x2
No of needle: 2256
No of feeder: 42x6
Machine no: 52
Machine type: Rib(Auto stripe)
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin: Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:36x18

No of needle: 2040
No of feeder: 54x6
Lachine no: 55

Machine type: Single jersey(Auto


stripe)
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin: Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:36x24
No of needle:2712
No of feeder: 50x6

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Machine no: 56

Machine no: 57

Machine type: Single jersey


(Auto stripe)
Brand:
Pai Lung
Origin:
Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge:36x24
No of needle: 27U
No of feeder: 50x6

Machine type: Single jersey


Brand: Fukuhara
Origin: Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:26x24
No of feeder: 86

Machine no: 58

Machine no: 59

Machine type: Single jersey


Brand:
Fukuhara
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:26x4
No of feeder: 86

Machine type: Single jersey


Brand:
Fukuhara
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:26x4
No of feeder: 86

Machine no: 60

Machine no: 61

Machine type: Single jersey


Brand: Fukuhara
Origin: Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:26x24
No of feeder: 86

Machine type: Single jersey


Brand: Fukuhara
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:30x8
No of feeder: 98

Machine no: 62
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand: Fukuhara
Origin: Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:30x28
No of feeder: 98

Machine no: 63
Machine type: Single jersey

Machine no: 64

Machine no: 65

Machine type: Single jersey


Brand: Fukuhara
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:30x20
No. of feeder: 30

Brand: Fukuhara
Origin: Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:30x20
No of feeder: 30

Machine type: Single jersey


Brand: Fukuhara

Origin:

Kobe Japan

Machine dia &Gauge8x24


No of feeder: 84

Machine no: 66

Machine no: 67

Machine type: Single jersey


Brand: Fukuhara
Origin: Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:32x24
No of feeder:
106

Machine type: Single jersey


Brand: Fukuhara
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:32x24
No of feeder:
106

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Machine no: 68

Machine type: Single jersey


Brand: Fukuhara
Origin: Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge:36x4

No of feeder:

118

Machine No: 70
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand:Keumyong
Origin:Koria
M/C Dia&Gauge:30*20
No of feeder:90

Machine No: 69
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand:Keumyong
Origin:Koria
M/C Dia&Gauge:30*20
No of feeder:90
Machine No: 71
Machine type: Single jercy
Brand:Keumyong
Origin:Koria
M/C Dia&Gauge:30*20
No of feeder:90

Machine No: 72
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand:Keumyong
Origin:Koria
M/C Dia&Gauge:30*20
No of feeder:90

Specification of V-Bed Knitting Machine:


No. of V-Bed Knitting m/c: 26
Machine no-(01-15)
M/c type: Rib (collar)
Brand name: Matsuya
Origin: Japan
Manufacturing no: 8103
Gauge: 14
Date of manufacturing: 2004
Machine no-(16-25)
M/c type: Rib (collar)
Brand name: Strickmaschinen GMBH
Origin: Germany
Needle: 2040
Manufacturing no: 8103
Gauge: 16
Date of manufacturing: 2002

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Others Machines in Knitting Section:


1. Gray Fabric Inspection M/c
Brand: Uzu cloth inspection machine
Manufacturer: AATPR INDUSTRY CO.LTD.
Model: UZ 900-3
Origin: Thailand.
No. of Machine: 03
2. Electric Balance for Fabric Weight.
3. Electric Balance for GSM check.

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR KNITTING


YARN IN PACKAGE FORM
PLACE THE YARN PACKAGE IN THE CREEL
FEEDING THE YARN
SET THE M/C AS PER DESIGN &GSM
KNITTING
WITHDRAW THE ROLLED FABRIC AND WEIGHTING
INSPECTION
NUMBERING

Product Mix
SINGLE JERSEY
S/J
LYCRA S/J
YARN DYED S/J
POLO PIQUE
SINGLE LACOSTE
DOUBLE LACOSTE
FLEECE
LYCRA FLEECE

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DOUBLE JERSEY
1*1 RIB
1*1 LYCRA RIB
YARN DYED RIB
2*1 RIB
2*2 RIB
2*2 LYCRA RIB
INTERLOCK
Type of Collar

TIPPING COLLAR
SOLID COLLAR
RAISING COLLAR
PEACOT COLLAR
WAISY BAND / HEM

PRODUCTION CALCULATION:
A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency

RPM No. of Feeder No. of Needle SL( mm)


3527.80 Yarn count

B. Production/shift in meter
Course / min .
Course / cm
RPM No. of Feeder 60 12 Efficiency

Course / cm 100

C. Fabric width in meter:

Total no. of wales


Wales / cm 100
Total no. of Needles used in knitting

Wales / cm 100

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PRODUCTION PARAMETER:
1. Machine Diameter
2. Machine rpm (revolution per minute)
3. No. of feeds or feeders in use
4. Machine Gauge
5. Count of yarn
6. Required time (M/C running time)
7. Machine running efficiency

Production

Calculated Fabric Production = 18 M. Ton


Actual Fabric Production = 12-14 M. Ton

Circular Knitting m/c production= 200 -500 kg per m/c/day


Auto Stripper production = 60- 150 kg/mc

Collar production= 11500-13500 pc/ day

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SAMPLE AND ANALYSIS OF VARIOUS TYPE OF KNITTED


FABRIC:
Fabric: Single jersey
SAMPLE

NOTATION DIAGRAM

CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT

NEEDLE ARRANGMENT
1
2
N.B:
= Knit stitch
= Knit cam

1 = One butt needle


2 = Two butt needle

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Fabric: 1 1 Rib
SAMPLE

CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT

NEEDLE
ARRANGMENT

HL
LS

22

22

N.B:
= Knit cam
H =High butt needle
L = Low butt needle
1 = One butt needle
2 = Two butt needle

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Fabric: 2 2 Rib
SAMPLE

CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT


NEEDLE

LH

ARRANGMENT
D

C2
2

N.B:
= Knit cam
H = High butt needle
L= Low butt needle
C= Cylinder
D= Dial
1 = One butt needle
2 = Two butt needle
Fabric: Plain Interlock
SAMPLE

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CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT

NEEDLE ARRANGMENT

2
N.B:
= Knit cam
H = High butt needle

= Miss cam
C = Cylinder

L = Low butt needle

D = Dial

1= One butt needle


2 = Two butt needle

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Fabric: Single Lacost


SAMPLE

NOTATION DIAGRAM

CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT

NEEDLE ARRANGMENT
1
2
N.B:
= Knit stitch
= Knit cam
=Tuck cam
= Tuck stich

1 = One butt needle


2 = Two butt needle

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Fabric: Double Lacoste


SAMPLE

NOTATION DIAGRAM

CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT

NEEDLE ARRANGMENT
1
2
N.B:
= Knit stitch
= Tuck stitch
= Tuck cam
= Knit cam

1 = One butt needle


2 = Two butt needle

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Fabric: Terry/French Terry/Two Thread


SAMPLE

NOTATION DIAGRAM

CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT


2

NEEDLE ARRANGMENT
1
2
3
NB:
= Knit stitch
= Tuck stitch
= Tuck cam
= Knit cam
= Miss cam

1 = One butt needle


2 = Two butt needle
3 = Three butt needle
= Miss stitch

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Fabric: Fleece (Three Thread)


SAMPLE
NOTATION DIAGRAM

CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT


1 2

NEEDLE ARRANGMENT
1
2
3
NB:
= Knit stitch
= Tuck stitch
= Tuck cam
= Knit cam
= Miss cam

1 = One butt needle


2 = Two butt needle
3 = Three butt needle
= Miss stitch

FAULTS, CAUSES & THEIR REMEDIES IN KNITTING:


1. Hole Mark
Causes:
Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle
hook.
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If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course


and density.
Badly knot or splicing.
Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:
Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as
uniform.
Use proper count of yarn.
Correctly set of yarn feeder.
Knot should be given properly.
2. Needle Mark
Causes:
When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the
fabrics.
If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes
on the fabrics.
Remedies:
Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
3. Sinker Mark
Causes:
When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a
new loop as a result sinker mark comes.
If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
Sinker should be changed.
4. Star
Causes:
Yarn tension variation during production.
Buckling of the needle latch.
Low G.S.M fabric production.

Remedies:
Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
Use good conditioned needles.
5. Drop Stitches

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Causes:
Defective needle.
If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid
on to the needle hook.
Take-down mechanism too loose.
Insufficient yarn tension.
Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:
Needle should be straight & well.
Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
Yarn tension should be properly.
6. Oil stain
Causes:
When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and
make a line.
Remedies:
Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
7.

Rust stain

Causes:
If any rust on the machine parts.
Remedies:
If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.
Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.
8. Pin hole
Causes:
Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the
fabric.
Remedies:
Change the needle
9. Grease stain
Causes:
Improper greasing
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Excess greasing
Remedies:
Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance
10.

Cloth fall- out

Causes:
Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty
needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn
feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following
needles.
Remedies:
Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after
a drop stitch.
11. Barre:
A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise
(width wise) Stripe.
Causes:
This fault comes from yarn fault.
If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in
carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.
In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one
sliver.
Remedies:
We can use this fabric in white color.
12.

Fly dust:

Causes:
In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created
from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may
adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric
production.

Remedies:
Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of
time.
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By cleaning the floor continuously.


By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
13. Yarn contamination
Causes:
If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after
finishing,
If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
By avoiding lot, count mixing.
Fault less spinning.
14.

Yarn Faults:

Neps.
Slubs.
Yarn count variations.
Thick/Thin place in yarn.
Hairiness.

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Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be


dyed and processed for a particular lot of a particular order.

Function or Purpose of Batch Section


-

To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other


source.
Turn the grey fabric if require.
To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the
following criteria
Order sheet (Received from buyer)
Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
M/C capacity
M/C available
Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)
Emergency
To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
To keep records for every previous dyeing.

Proper batching criteria


-

To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.


To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage
time.
To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

Batch management
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the
above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this
primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Some time planning is adjusted
according to m/c condition or emergency.

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Machines in batch section


M/c quantity: 02
M/c Specification:
Machine Name
M/c No
Brand Name
Origin
M/c Speed
Model
Max up clothing
Company
Finishing
Machinery Co.Ltd

: Air turning m/c


: 01
: Taida
: China
: 300-500m/min
: DF 200
: 150 kg
:Shandong Taida Dyeing &

Machine Name
M/c No
Brand Name
Origin
M/c Speed
Model
Max up clothing
Company
Finishing
Machinery Co.Ltd.

: Air turning m/c


: 02
: Taida
: China
: 300-500m/min
: DF 200
: 150 kg
:Shandong Taida Dyeing &

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LABORATORY
LABORATORY MACHINERIES WITH ITS SPECIFICATION
1. Tearing Strength Tester:
Brand Name :Elmatear
Origin
: U.K
2. Button Strength Tester:

Brand Name : Titan


Origin
: U.K
Max.Pressure: 10 bar
Capacity
: 3000N

3. Bursting Strength Tester:


Brand Name : TruBurst
Origin
: U.K
4. Pilling Resistant Tester:
Brand Name : Impulse
Origin
: U.K
5. Sprectra Flash:
Brand Name : Data Color
Origin
: U.S.A
Test Name: Colorfastness to Washing, Dry cleaning .
Name of the m/c : Rota Wash
Origin
: U.K
Test Method
:ISO105-C06, ISO105-D02
Test Name: Dimensional Stability, Spirality, Appearance after
washing.
Name of the m/c : Eltrolux wascator.
Origin
: U.K
Test Method
: ISO 6330, ISO 26330
Test Name : Shrinkage Test.
Name of the m/c : Eltrolux
Origin
: U.K
Test Name : Color Fastness to Wash Test.
Name of the m/c : Gyro wash
Origin
: U.K
Test Method
: ISO 105-C06

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Lab Dip m/c:


No.of m/c: 02
M/C NO- 01
Brand name : Ahiba Nuance Lab Dip Dyeing m/c
Origin
: U.S.A
M/C NO- 02
Brad name : Ahiba Nuance Lab Dip Dyeing m/c
Origin
: U.S.A

Color Matching Cabinet (Light box):


No. of Light Box: 02
Light Box no: 01
Brand
: Spectralight-111
Origin
: U.S.A
Light Source:

Day Light (D-65)


Cool White
Horizon
UV
TL-84
A (F11-10 degree)

Light Box no: 02


Brand
: Verivide
Origin
: U.K
Light Source:

Day Light (D-65)


UV
TL-84
A (F11-10 degree)

Laboratory is the heart of dyeing Industry. An efficient laboratory can


increase the efficiency of dyeing. So, laboratory in-charge is sometimes
called pilot. Before bulk production a sample is sent to buyer for approval.
Laboratory supplies the recipe to the floor.

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Purpose of Laboratory:
Get color approval from buyer.
Recipe supply to the floor.
Shade correction.
Minimize the deviation between bulk and laboratory.
Laboratory line:
Standard sample:
At first recipe % of standard sample is measured by CCM (computer
color matching) system.

Laboratory Trial:
Then by taking those recipe laboratory officers produce laboratory trial
and match with standard according to buyer requirement.
Approved Sample:
Then sample swatch, which is matched with the standard, is send to
buyer for approval.

Off-Line Tests:
Off-Line tests for finished fabrics are divided into two groups. These are as
follows:
Physical tests
Chemical tests
Scope for Quality control, quality assurance and testing
1 Testing lab
2.Machine auditing system
3.A good training system
4.Excellent analytical back up
5.Technical expertise

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QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM


The Quality assurance Department is assigned to maintain
consistently uniform quality of the material in process and various stages
of its manufacturing. VIYELLATEX LTD is more about concern about
quality. In this factory quality assurance is more preferred than quality
control, but both are in advancement.
Objects of Quality Control:
1.Research.
2.Selection of raw materials.
3.Process control.
4.Process development.
5.Product testing.
6.Specification test
Quality management system in viyellatex:
QA

On-Line

Off-Line

Online Quality control:


There are two types of online quality control. These are as follows:

Raw material control:

Raw material control means control the quality of raw materials (e.g.Quality of Grey fabric, Dyes, Chemicals and Auxiliary)

Process control:

Process control means the selection of right process and controlling of


some

parameters.

Such

as

P H,

Water

hardness,

water

volume,

Temperature, Reel Speed, Pump pressure, etc.


Online Tests:
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Dyed fabric.
Shade check.
Wash fastness.
Water fastness.
Crocking fastness.
Off-Line Tests:
Off-Line tests for finished fabrics are divided into two groups. These are as
follows:
Physical tests
Chemical tests
Physical Tests:
GSM of Fabric.
Abrasion resistance / Pilling.
Dimensional stability test.
Spirality test.
Color fastness to rubbing test (Dry / Wet).
Bursting strength test (For Knitted fabric).
Tensile Strength test (For Woven fabric).

Chemical Tests:
Color Fastness to washing.
Color Fastness to light.
Color Fastness to heat.
Color Fastness to actual laundering
Color Fastness to Chlorinated water.
Color Fastness to water spotting.
Color Fastness to perspiration.
Color Fastness to Seawater.
Flammability test.
Fibre analysis.
PH test.
Spray test (water repellency).
Phenolic yellowing.

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RESPOSIBILITY OF OFF-LINE QUALITY CONTROL:


To check the following things:
Inspection of fabric in the inspection M/C under 4-point system.
Yarn count and lot no.
Buyer.
Design.
Stitch length of grey fabric.
Shade of grey fabric with in one order.

RESPOSIBILITY OF ON LINE QUALITY CONTROL


To check the following things:
M/C Dia/Gauge
Buyer
Design
Grey fabric GSN & Stitch Length
Yarn count & Lot no
Yarn whether approved or not by Q.C. Department
Finished dia & grey dia.
Fabric quality checking under 4-point system.

RESPONSIBILITY OF IN CHARGE OF QUALITY CONTROL


Making report.
Supervise the grey Q.C.
Check machine is running according to program or not
Check program can meet the requirement. Which is

mentioned in

the order sheet or not.

Check yarn is approved by Q.C. or not.

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RESPONSIBILITY OF THE FINISHING Q.C.


Finishing Q.C. (shade):
After unloading from dyeing cut small piece, check shade with
std/approved lab dip/production sample & previous production batch
(if any).
Then instruction to finishing for finish by mentioning specific
temperature in dryer.
After finish again cut sample & check same way like before at dry
state.
Keep the record of every lot after dry & after finished state.
If any batch is not OK at any stage then make the re-process card for
dyeing.
If any batch is closer to standard but not exactly pass with standard,
then make trial for that batch in finishing to make it OK.
Maintain the resister of all batches.
Check the shade of Body to Rib, Body to Collar & Cuff.
In charge:

Q.C.

Supervise the trainee Q.C. & Q.C.


Make report every day.
Cross check whatever shade already checked by Q.C.
(Finishing):

Make the R2R continuity of each dye lot by cutting small piece from
each roll of dye lot.
Inspect 30-40 % of each dye lot under 4-point inspection system &
report accordingly.
If found any problem then re-inspect 100% of that dye lot and make
report & re-process card (if re-process able) for dyeing. If it is
knitting faults then immediately inform to officer asking decision.
Check the evenness of a dye lot by checking R2R continuity.
Check the shade of body to rib, body to collar & cuff.
In charge:
Monitor the all Q.C.S (finishing) work including shade Q.C.
Take decision when asking advise from his subordinate.
Make daily problematic batch report.
Make daily production report.
Maintain resister khata.

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Make daily batch re-process job card.

RESPOSIBILITY OF QUALITY ASSURANCE MANAGER:

Responsible for all quality matter of fabric.


Yarn selection.
Monitoring product development.
Organize Laboratory.
Control grey and finished fabric inspection under 4- point system.

Documentation after shade check of every lot.

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Quality Assurance Procedure


1) Body & Rib Inspection:
All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are
inspected over the inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light.
For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, fall out,
contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, stubs etc are recorded in
inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four point system.
2) Collar cuff Inspection:
Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the tight box, any major or minor
faulty collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, stubs, wrong
design, first round problem etc properly counted and recorded.
Quality Standard:
VIYELLA TEX Ltd. maintains the ISO: 9002 standard in case of quality.
Therefore the four point system is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric.
The defects found and points given against are recorded in the inspection
sheet. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by
inspection at VIYELLA TEX Ltd.
Four point grading system
Size of defects
Penalty
3 inches or less
1 point

2 point
Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch
Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch
3 point
Over 9 inch
4 point

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Following table shows common body and rib faults and response by
inspection section at VIYELLA TEX Ltd.
Acceptance Calculation
Roll yardage (A) Total points founds(B)

Factory:
Formula :

X100 =points per 100 yard

Classification:

40 points

=A type

41-60

=B type

61-80

=C type

Above 8Opoin =

Reject

Tests
There are two types of tests are done in Quality Assurance Department.
They are
1. Physical Tests
2. Chemical Tests
Physical Tests:
Yarn Grade
GSM test
Shrinkage test
Spirality test
Tensile strength
Abrasion resistance
Button Strength Testing
Lycra% determination
Crease resistance
Chemical Tests:
Fastness
Fastness
Fastness
Fastness
Fastness
Fastness

to
to
to
to
to
to

washing.
light
actual laundering
sea water
water
perspiration

SOME TEST PROCEDURE


Color fastness to rubbing (wet & dry):
Procedure:
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At first take a sample of size (14 5) cm at Wales & Course wise. Put the
crocking cloth on to the finger & stag by finger clip & run 10 times in 10
seconds manually & assess the crocking cloth with gray scale.
Place the crocking cloth on the water, it will sucked some water and then
squeeze the crocking cloth. Then place the wet rubbing cloth on to the
finger and stag with finger clip and run 10 times in 10 seconds manually.
Then assess the crocking cloth by gray scale for wet rubbing. Wet and dry
rubbing are checked according to buyers requirement.

Color fastness to washing(ISO/05-CO6):


Procedure:
1. Size of specimen: Cut sample & multifibre at (10 2)cm then stitch.
2. Detergent: 4g/l ECE detergent (WOB) + 1g/l sodium per borate put in distilled
water & cooled at 20C & measured PH (where necessary).
3. Run the program in the following way: Test no. TempC
C2S

60C

Liq.volume ml

Time min.

50

30

Steel balls Adjust pH


25

10.51

4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water.


5. Dry at 60C by hanging or by flat iron pressing but temperature should not less
more than 150C.

Pilling test:
Procedure:
Cut the fabric 12.5 x 12.5cm & balance mark should be 10cm by using
template. Then sewn the fabric so that it can be firmly fit in the tube a
moulded polyurethane tubes. Then four tubes are placed in a box &
start 602 rev/min for 5 hrs or according to buyer requirement. Here
mainly used 3hrs(1100 cycle). Then assess the pilling by putting tested
specimen on the viewing cabinet & compare with standard
photographs.

Shrinkage & Spirality test:


Buyers requirements:
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Template size: 50cm & 35cm, 25.5cm &18cm (use after quick wash).
Shrinkage: length wise--- 5%
Width wise----5%
Spirality:

Left -------- 5%
Right -------- 5%

Procedure:
At first take two ply of fabric & put the template (50cm) on to the fabric.
The template has 8 holes. Both length & width wise the template holes can
measure 35cm at 3 places. Then we mark the 8 holes by permanent
marker & also at the edges of the template.
Then sewn the fabric & it is given to the washing m/c for run at 60C for
60minutes with water. After that dry the sample & then measure the fabric
Spin speed --- 500rpm
Drum speed--500rpm

Calculation:

Shrinkage Test:
Lengthwise:
After wash Before wash
= ----------------------------------100
Before wash
Width wise:
After wash Before wash
= ----------------------------------100
Before wash

Spirality test:

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Left side Right side


2
=
100 %
Length(width for H & M)

Color fastness to water (ISO 105 EO1& EO2):


1. Sample size: Cut the specimen & multi-fiber at 102cm & sewn
together.
2. Solution: Wet in distilled water at room temperature & it will suck
water.
3. Place it in acrylic resin plates & put the weight on to the plates.
4. Keep it in oven & keep the temperature at 37 2C for 4hrs.
5. Open the specimen & dry it in the air hot exceeding 60C.
6. Assess the staining & shade change with gray scale.

Color fastness to perspiration Alkaline & Acid solution


(Method: ISO 105 E04):
1) Procedure:
Cut the specimen & multifibre at 102cm & sewn together.
2) Prepare solution:
Alkaline Solution:
0.5g/l of 1-histadine mono hydrochloride monohydrate
5g/l of sodium chloride
This solution is brought to pH -8 with 0.1 mole/l caustic solution.
Acid solution:
0.5 g/l of 1-histadine monohydrochloride monohydrate
5g/l of sodium chloride.
2.2 g/l of sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dehydrate.
This solution is brought to pH-5.5 with 0.1 mole/l caustic solution.
3) M: L = 1: 50

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4) Wet the specimen in flat dish containing acid & alkaline solution & keep
for 30min. Then take the specimen & squeeze the excess solution by two
glass rods.
5) Put the specimen in to the acrylic resin plates & put wt. on the plates.
6) Keep it in the woven at 37C 2C for 4hrs.
7) Open the specimen 6 multi fibre & dry separately in the air temperature
not exceeding 60C.
8) Access the staining & shade change with grey scale.

PH Test:
Procedure:
Take 2gm sample fabrics and cut into small pieces. Then put it conical flax
with 100cc water (M: L -1:50). Then shake it 15 min, then place it in a
shaker m/c for 1 hour. Then check PH by PH meter.

GSM TEST:
Procedure:
GSM is the most important factor. There is a GSM cutter. The
sample cut by the GSM cutter is weighted in the electronic balance. The
reading (in gm) from the balance is multiplied by 100 to get the value of
GSM.

Remarks:

They have a well-equipped Testing laboratory called Textile Testing


Services limited for all kinds of Textile Testing. The laboratory of viyellatex
is approved by world renowned buyer Marks & Spenser and also Puma.
Now they are just testing their internal tests but they are trying to develop
their laboratory. So that external author can send their textile material for
testing by suitable testing fees.

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I N D U S T R I A L ATTA C H M E N T O N V I Y E L L ATE X

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Responsibility of production officer


Overall supervision of dyeing & finishing.
Dyes & chemicals requisition issue & check.
Program making, sample checking color measurement.
Control the supervisors operators & helpers of machines.
To give dye-line or the program slip according to daily
production plan, batch preparation & PH check.
o To rectify the finished fabric which rejected from quality control
department
o To check daily production report.
o To study dye & chemicals nature delivery by the manufacture
& applied them correctly to the production to get best product
o
o
o
o
o

Job Description:
Title: Production officer.

Dept: Dyeing
Report to: Senior production officer.
Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production
activities & control the quality production with related
activities.

Title: Senior production officer.


Dept: Dyeing.
Report to: Dyeing manager.
Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production
activities & control the quality production with related activities.
Duties & Responsibilities :
Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production.
Checks the different log books of different areas & report to
management.
Checks the sensitive parameters of different machine for smooth
dyeing.
Checks out the plan to control the best output from supervisor &
workers.
To trained up & motive the subordinates how to improve the quality
production.
Maintenance of machine & equipment. Any other works & when
required by the management.
Control the supervisors, operator, asst. operator & helpers of dyeing
m/c.
REMARKS:
The manpower management system VIYELLATEX

GROUP

is well

arranged. Every officers & stuffs are responsible for their duty. But there
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are only six textile engineers in the industry 11 for dyeing & 1 for
Finishing. It is sufficient for Finishing). It is sufficient for fluent production.
The efficiency of the \\orker should be increased for more quality
production.

Dyeing Machine Capacity


Bulk Dyeing Machine
Machine Number
Machine Number: 01
Machine Number: 02
Machine Number: 03
Machine
Machine
Machine
Machine
Machine
Machine
Machine
Machine
Machine
Machine
Machine
Machine

Number:
Number:
Number:
Number:
Number:
Number:
Number:
Number:
Number:
Number:
Number:
Number:

04
05
06
07
08
09
10
11
12
13
14
15

Total Capacity=

Capacity in Kg
500
1000
1000
250
500
750
200
250
750
1120
840
560
1680
840
1120

11,360

Sample Dyeing Machine Capacity


Machine Number
Capacity in Kg
Machine
Machine
Machine
Machine
Machine
Machine
Machine

Number:
Number:
Number:
Number:
Number:
Number:
Number:

01
02
03
04
05
06
07

25
25
30
120
30
60
60

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Total Capacity=
350
Total capacity of Bulk dyeing & Sample dyeing machine=
11,710 Kg

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Bulk Dyeing Machine Specification


Dyeing Machine: 01(FONGS)
Machine name
Machine NO.
NO. of nozzle
Origin

Fongs( Atmospheric m/c)


ECO-38-2T
2
CHINA

Dyeing Machine: 02(THIES)


Machine Name
Type
Origin
Capacity
Model
Number of nozzle
Max. working Temperature
Max. Liquor Capacity
Working Pressure
Test pressure
Year of Construction

Thies (High temperature m/c).


Farbekessel eco- soft Plus
Germany
1000 kg
45506
04
140C
17696 liter
0.35 Mpa
: 0.55 Mpa
2004

Dyeing Machine: 03(THIES)


Machine Name
Type
Origin
Capacity
Model
Number of nozzle
Max. working Temperature
Max. Liquor Capacity
Working Pressure
Test pressure
Year of Construction

Thies (High temperature m/c).


Farbekessel eco- soft Plus
Germany
1000 kg
43891
04
140C
17696 liter
0.35 Mpa
0.55 Mpa
2003

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Dyeing Machine: 04(THIES)


Machine Name
Type
Origin
Capacity
Model
Number of nozzle
Max. working Temperature
Max. Liquor Capacity
Working Pressure
Test pressure
Year of Construction

Thies (High temperature m/c).


Farbekessel eco- soft Plus
Germany
250 kg
41346
01
140C
6605 liter
0.35 Mpa
0.525 Mpa
2002

Dyeing Machine: 05(THIES)


Machine Name
Thies (High temperature m/c).
Type
Farbekessel eco- soft Plus
Origin
Germany
Capacity
500 kg
Model
41350
Number of nozzle
02
Max. working Temperature
140C
Max. Liquor Capacity
10193 liter
Working Pressure
0.35 Mpa
Test pressure
0.525 Mpa
Year of Construction
2002
Dyeing Machine: 06(THIES)
Machine Name
Type
Origin
Capacity
Model
Number of nozzle
Max. working Temperature
Max. Liquor Capacity
Working Pressure
Test pressure
Year of Construction

Thies (High temperature machine).


Farbekessel eco- soft Plus
Germany
750 kg
41354
03
140C
13901liter
0.35 Mpa
0.525 Mpa
2002

Dyeing Machine: 07(FONGS)


Machine Name
Fongs (High temperature machine).

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Origin
Capacity
Model No.
Number of nozzle
Design code
Design Temp.
Design Pressure
Hydraulic Test pressure
Safety Valve Set
Year of Construction
Manufacturer

CHINA
200 kg
SHI 0515416/25
01
PD 5500 2003 CAT2
140C
380 KPa
585KPa
380 KPa
2005
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN)Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 08(FONGS)
Machine Name
Fongs (High temperature machine).
Origin
CHINA
Capacity
250 kg
Model No.
SHI 0515416/07
Number of nozzle
01
Design code
PD 5500 2003 CAT2
Design Temp.
140C
Design Pressure
380 KPa
Hydraulic Test pressure
585KPa
Safety Valve Set
380 KPa
Year of Construction
2005
Manufacturer
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 09(FONGS)
Machine Name
Fongs (High temperature machine).
Origin
CHINA
Capacity
750 kg
Model No.
SHI 0515416/17
Number of nozzle
03
Design code
PD 5500 2003 CAT2
Design Temp.
140C
Design Pressure
380 KPa
Hydraulic Test pressure
585KPa
Safety Valve Set
380 KPa
Year of Construction
2005
Manufacturer
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 10(FONGS)
Machine Name
Fongs (High temperature machine).
Origin
CHINA
Capacity
1120 kg

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Model No.
Number of nozzle
Design code
Design Temp.
Design Pressure
Hydraulic Test pressure
Safety Valve Set
Year of Construction
Manufacturer

SHI 0515416/23
04
PD 5500 2006 CAT2
140C
350 KPa
520KPa
350 KPa
2007
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 11(FONGS)
Machine Name
Fongs (High temperature machine).
Origin
CHINA
Capacity
840 kg
Model No.
SHI 0515416/19
Number of nozzle
03
Design code
PD 5500 2006 CAT2
Design Temp.
140C
Design Pressure
350 KPa
Hydraulic Test pressure
520KPa
Safety Valve Set
350 KPa
Year of Construction
2007
Manufacturer
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 12(FONGS)
Machine Name
Fongs (High temperature machine).
Origin
CHINA
Capacity
560 kg
Model No.
SHI 0515416/03
Number of nozzle
02
Design code
PD 5500 2006 CAT2
Design Temp.
140C
Design Pressure
350 KPa
Hydraulic Test pressure
520KPa
Safety Valve Set
350 KPa
Year of Construction
2005
Manufacturer
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 13(FONGS)
Machine Name
Fongs (High temperature machine).
Origin
CHINA
Capacity
1680 kg
Model No.
SHI 0515416/27

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Number of nozzle
Design code
Design Temp.
Design Pressure
Hydraulic Test pressure
Safety Valve Set
Year of Construction
Manufacturer

06
PD 5500 2006 CAT2
140C
390 KPa
585KPa
390 KPa
2005
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 14(FONGS)

Machine Name
Origin
Capacity
Model No.
Number of nozzle
Design code
Design Temp.
Design Pressure
Hydraulic Test pressure
Safety Valve Set
Year of Construction
Manufacturer

Fongs (High temperature machine).


CHINA
840 kg
SHI 0515416/22
03
PD 5500 2006 CAT2
140C
380 KPa
585KPa
380 KPa
2005
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 15(FONGS)
Machine Name
Fongs (High temperature machine).
Origin
CHINA
Capacity
1120 kg
Model No.
SHI 0515416/29
Number of nozzle
04
Design code
PD 5500 2006 CAT2
Design Temp.
140C
Design Pressure
380 KPa
Hydraulic Test pressure
585KPa
Safety Valve Set
380 KPa
Year of Construction
2005
Manufacturer
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd

Specification Of Sample Dyeing Machine


Dyeing Machine: 01 (FONGS)
Machine Name
Origin
Capacity

Fongs (High temperature machine).


CHINA
25 kg

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Number of nozzle
Design code
Design Temp.
Design Pressure
Hydraulic Test pressure
Safety Valve Set
Year of Construction
Manufacturer

01
PD 5500 2000 CAT2
140C
400 KPa
650KPa
400 KPa
2003
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd

Dyeing Machine: 02 (THIES)


Machine Name
Origin
Capacity
Number of nozzle
Max. Operating Pressure
Max. Operating Temp.
Liquor Capacity
Year of Construction

Thies (High temperature machine).


GERMANY
25 kg
01
0.35MPa
140C
523 lit.
2002

Dyeing Machine: 03 (FONGS)


Machine Name
Origin
Capacity
Number of nozzle
Design code
Design Temp.
Design Pressure
Hydraulic Test pressure
Safety Valve Set
Year of Construction
Manufacturer

Fongs (High temperature machine).


CHINA
30 kg
01
PD 5500 2003 CAT2
140C
400 KPa
650KPa
400 KPa
2005
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd

Dyeing Machine: 04 (FONGS)


Machine Name
Origin
Capacity
Number of nozzle
Design code

Fongs (High temperature machine).


CHINA
120 kg
01
PD 5500 2003 CAT2

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Design Temp.
Design Pressure
Hydraulic Test pressure
Safety Valve Set
Year of Construction
Manufacturer

140C
400 KPa
650KPa
400 KPa
2005
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 05 (FONGS)

Machine Name
Origin
Capacity
Number of nozzle
Design code
Design Temp.
Design Pressure
Hydraulic Test pressure
Safety Valve Set
Year of Construction
Manufacturer

Fongs (High temperature machine).


CHINA
30 kg
01
PD 5500 2006 CAT2
140C
350 KPa
520KPa
350 KPa
2006
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd

Dyeing Machine: 06 (FONGS)


Machine Name
Fongs (High temperature machine).
Origin
CHINA
Capacity
60 kg
Number of nozzle
01
Design code
PD 5500 2006 CAT2
Design Temp.
140C
Design Pressure
350 KPa
Hydraulic Test pressure
520KPa
Safety Valve Set
350 KPa
Year of Construction
2007
Manufacturer
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 07 (FONGS)
Machine Name
Origin
Capacity
Number of nozzle
Design code
Design Temp.

Fongs (High temperature machine).


CHINA
60 kg
01
PD 5500 2006 CAT2
140C

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Page 176

Design Pressure
Hydraulic Test pressure
Safety Valve Set
Year of Construction
Manufacturer

350 KPa
520KPa
350 KPa
2007
Fongs National Engineering
(SHENZHEN) Company Ltd

Bulk Dyeing Machine


Machine No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15

Loading/Nozzle
250*2
250*4
250*4
200*1
250*2
250*3
200*1
250*1
250*3
280*4
280*3
280*2
280*6
280*3
280*4

Controller
FC 28
T 737xL
T 737Xl
T 737xL
T 737xL
T 737xL
FC 22
FC 22
FC 22
FC 22
FC 22
FC 22
FC 22
FC 22
FC 22

Sample Dyeing Machine


Machine NO.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7

Loading/Nozzle
25*1
25*1
30*1
120*1
30*1
60*1
60*1

Controller
FC28
T505
FC22
FC22
FC22
FC22
FC22

Raw materials for dyeing


Raw materials used in the dyeing section are:
1. Grey fabrics
2. Dyes
3. Chemicals.

Grey fabrics

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Following types of gray fabrics are dyed in ViyellaTex:


Single jersey
Single jersey with lycra
Polo pique
Back Pique
Single lacoste
Double Lacoste
Fleece
Rib
Rib with lycra
11 rib

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Page 176

List of dyes used in VIYELLATEX LTD.


Name of the Dyes Type

Source

Origin

Ciba Yellow FN2R


Ciba Red FNR
Ciba Red FN2BL
Ciba Blue FNR
Ciba Br. Blue FNG
Ciba Red FN3F
Ciba Yellow F4G
Ciba Scarlet F3G
Ciba Yellow WR
Ciba Red WB
Ciba Navy WB
Ciba Dk. Blue WR
Ciba Red HF
Ciba Orange HR
Ciba Navy H2G
Ciba Black WHF
DrimarineYellow HFR
Drimarine Red HF2B
Drimarine Blue HFRL
DrimarineYellowCLR
Drimarine Red CL5B
Drimarine Navy CLB
DrimarineOrangCLR
Drimarine Yellow GL
DrimarineTurquisCLB
DrimarineTurquisK2B
Drirnarin Blue CLBR
Drimarin Blue K2RL
Remazol Yellow~RR
Remazol Red RR
Remazol Blue RR
RemazolBrBlue(RSPL)
Remazol Blue BB
Remazol T/Blue G
Remazol Yellow 3RS
Remazol Red 3BS
Dianix Yellow SEG
Dianix Red CC
Dianix Blue ER
Dianix Black CCR
Dianix Navy CC
Sunfix Yellow EXF
Sunfix Red EXF
Sunfix Blue EXF
Sunfix Blue BRF

Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Dyestar
Dyestar
Dyestar
Dyestar
Dyestar
Dyestar
Dyestar
Dyestar
Dychufix
Dychufix
Dychufix
Dychufix
Dychufix
Sumitomo
Sumitomo
Sumitomo
Sumitomo

GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
KORIA
KORIA
KORIA
KORIA

Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye

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Sunfix Yellow S3RD


Sunfix Red S3BD
Bezactive Red VBN
Bezactive Yellow V2R
BezactiveTurquisVC
Bezactive Red S2B
Bezactive blue-SLF
Imcozyn Black VB
Imcozyn Red 3BF
Imcozyn Yellow E3R
Irncozyn Blue V3R
Imcozyn T. Blue VG
ImcozynBr.OrangeVR
Terasil Yellow W4G
TerasilG.Yellow W3R
Terasil Navy WRS
Terasil Red W4BS
Terasil Blue WBLS
Terasil Black WNS
Terasil Black BFE
Levafix Blue CA
Levafix Rubine CA
Levafix Amber CA

Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Disperse
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye
Reactive Dye

Sumitomo
Sumitomo
Bezema
Bezerna
Bezema
Bezerna
Bezerna
Impo color
Impo color
Impo color
Impo color
Impo color
Impo color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Swiss Color
Dyestar
Dyestar
Dyestar

KORIA
KORIA
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN
EUROPEAN/ASIAN

Ciba
Ciba
Ciba
Ciba

Reactive
Reactive
Reactive
Reactive

Swiss
Swiss
Swiss
Swiss

GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY
GERMANY

Yellow HG
Blue HRN
Red HBL
Orange EBR

Dye
Dye
Dye
Dye

Color
Color
Color
Color

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Different Types of Chemicals Used In Viyellatex With


Their Brand Name
CHEMICAL NAME
Wetting agent
Levelling agent
Anti-creasing
agent
Per Oxide
Stabilizer
Caustic
Soda Ash
H2O2
Optical
Brightening Agent
H2O2 Killer
Acitic Acid
Sequestering
Agent
Enzyme
Electrolyte / Salt
Detergent
Soaping Agent

Softener
Fixing Agent

BRAND NAME
Feloson NOF
A-41

COUNTRY NAME
Germany
China

Kapavon CL
Kapazon H-53
CBB
Rucorit Wez
Caustic
Soda Ash
H2O2
Uvitex-BAM
Uvitex-BHV
Uvitex-BBT
Syno White 4Bk
Kapatex-PKS
Acitic Acid
Securon-540
CS
Polyclean-SP
Bio-ACE
Biopolish-B41
Sodium Sulphate Anhydrose
Glubar Salt
Rukozen-WBL
Diwet PIUS
Rukozen-NZA
Dekol ISN
Cyclonon XCW
Nerosoft-JS(an-ionic)
Nerosoft-NI(non-ionic)
Purrustol-IMA
Sandofix-EC
Protan FCE-375

Germany
Germany
China
China
China+ Korea
GERMANY

Germany
India
China
India
China
Srilanka
India
Germany
India
Germany
China
China
Germany
Germany

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Runtime10

Color dosing

Linear dosing
35 minutes

Runtime20

Salt dissolving

15 minutes

Runtime20

Check pH

In case of s/j low gsm fabric anti-creasing agents have to use in scouring & with R- hot.
In case of s/j low gsm fabric heating and cooling during scouring & R- hot have do with gradient.
Heating-2.5C/min.
Colling-1.5C/min
It is 60C isothermal dyeing.

60C

Check pH

Leveling agent
Level in

Soda dosing

70%progressive
50 minutes

DYEING CURVE FOR LIGHT SHADE

Bath
drop

MIR 10

Sample check

10

Check pH

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Runtime10

Salt dissolving

10 minutes

Runtime15

Check pH

Color dosing

Linear dosing
30 minutes

Runtime20

Soda dosing

70%progressive
50 minutes

In case of s/j low gsm fabric anti-creasing agents have to use in scouring & with R- hot.
In case of s/j low gsm fabric heating and cooling during scouring & R- hot have to do with gradient.
Heating-2.5C/min.
Colling-1.5C/min
It is 60C isothermal dyeing.

60C

Leveling agent

Level in

Check pH

Sample check

10

Check
pH
Check pH

DYEING CURVE FOR MEDIUM/ DARK SHADE

Bath
drop

MIR 10

Some sample with recipe


Color: White
Nature of fabric: S/J
GSM: 160
M:L-1:7
Feloson NOF=0.5%
Kapazon-H53=0.75%
Caustic-3 g/l
H2O2 -12 g/l
BAM (OBA) 0.8400%
4BK=0.6180%
Acetic Acid=1 g/l
Securon-540=0.5%

SAMPLE

Color= Black
Nature of fabric=PC(Fleece)
GSM= 280
M:L=1:6
For Polyester part dyeing
Feloson NOF=1%
AB-45=1%
T Yell W-3R=0.16800%
T Red W 4BS=0.3400%
T Black SNRL=2.3880 %
For Reduction Cleaning
Hydrous=3 g/l
Caustic=3 g/l
Pretreatment
WBL=0.7%
CBB=0.5 g/l
Caustic=2 g/l
H2O2=2.5 g/l
PC=0.75 g/l
Acetic Acid=1
Enzyme

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Acid=0.8
B11=0.75
Securon-540=0.5
Cotton part dyeing
A41=0.5%
SUN Yell MF3RD=0.73%
SUN Red MF3BD=0.3365%
RS Black-WM=5.6416%
Salt=90 g/l
Soda ash=5 g/l
Caustic=1.75 g/l
After treatment
Acetic Acid=0.8 g/l
JS100=1.5%
SAMPLE

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Taurquies color
Nature of fabric: S/J
GSM= 160
Pretreatment
NOF=0.5%
CL=0.5%
Feloson NOF=0.7%
KAPAZON-h53=0.5%
KAPAVON CL=1%
Caustic=2 g/l
H2O2=2.5 g/l
ROCORIT-WEZ=0.75 g/l
Acetic Acid=1
Acetic Acid=0.8
Biopolish-B11=1.5 g/l
Securon-540=0.5%

SAMPLE

Dyeing
CS=0.5%
KAPAVON CL=0.5%
SV=1.5%
ADM=1%
IM BR YELL V-4GL=0.8060%
TURQ V-G=0.6800%
BLUE VCR=0.0132%
Salt=50 g/l
Soda=ash=14 g/l
After treatment
Acetic Acid=0.8%
Sapamine C.W.S=1.5%

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FLOW CHART FOR DYEING


BATCHING

SELECT M/C NO.


FABRIC LOADING
SELECT PRODUCTION PROGRAMME
PRETREATMENT
SELECT RECIPE FOR DYEING
RECIPE CONFIRMED BY DM/PO
DYEING
POST TREATMENT
UNLOAD

Process Flow Chart for Machine Wash


NOF

Caustic

Hydrous
Run time 20 at 130C

Process Flow Chart for Deminaralization

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Fabric load

Water fill

NOF + A. Acid (Run time10)


At 60C
Drain bath

Process Flow Chart for Scouring & Bleaching

Water fill( From PT)

Detergent/wetting agent + Stabilizer +Anticreasing agent (inject)


At 60C
Caustic (Linear dosing 5)
At 60C
H2O2 dosing
At 70C
Then temp. raised to 105C & run 30

Water drain

H2O2 Killer hot wash (800C X10 min)

HOT WASH (10)

Water Drain & Water fill

Acetic Acid (Run 10 at 60C)

Water drain

Enzyme wash

As per Buyer requirement Enzyme wash is given.


Water fill + fabric load

Temp. raised to 55C

A.Acid(inject)
PH check (4.5-4.7)
Enzyme (Dosing for 10 )
Run 60 at 55C
Sequestering agent at 90C
Run 10
Water drain

Process Sequence of Dyeing (for different types shade)


Flow Chart for OBA Treatment

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Water fill + fabric load

Temp. raised to 70C

Detergent/wetting agent + Stabilizer


(Inject)
Caustic dosing 10 at 70C
Run 10
H202 Dosing 10
Run 10
OBA dosing 10
Temp. raised to 105C & run 50
Cooling to 78C

Water drain & Water fill

Normal hot wash at 80C

Bath drain & water fill


Temp. controlled at 55C
Acetic Acid inject & run 10

Water drain & Water fill

CS hot wash at 90C


Run 10
Water drain & Water fill

Normal wash at 45C 10

Fabric unload

Dyeing Sequence for Light Shade


Level In (Water from PT at 600 C)& Fabric load

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Check ph 6.5-7
Leveling agent injection
Run 10 min
Color dosing linear (600 c x 35 min)
Run 20 min
Salt dissolving (600 c x 15 min)
Run 20 min
Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (600 c x 50 min)
Check ph 11.5
Sample check
MIR rising 10 min
Bath drop

Dyeing Sequence for Dark Shade


Level In (Water from PT at 600 ) & Fabric load
Check ph 6.5-7
Leveling agent injection
Run 10 min
Salt dosing (600 c x 10 min)
Run 20 min
Color dosing (600 c x 30 min)
Run 20 min
Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (600 c x 50 min)
Check ph 11.5
Sample check
MIR rising 10 min
Bath drop

Process Flow Chart for After treatment


Water fill

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MIR wash 10

Normal hot 70C


Run time 15
MIR wash 15

Acetic Acid inject at 45C & run 10

Hot with NOF + Soaping agent


At 80C & run 10
Sample check

Wash at 90C for 10

Sample check at 78C

Rinsing

Fixing agent + Softener

Sample check

If OK , Then bath drain

If not OK, Then Addition is given

Addition
Dye dosing for 20
Run 20 at 60C
Sample taken

If ok, Then Bath drain

If not ok, Then Topping is Done

Flow Chart for CVC (blended fleece fabric) Dyeing


Pre-wash
Fabric load + Water fill

Wash with NOF at 80C & run10

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Rinsing

Bath drain

Polyester part dyeing


Water fill

Acetic Acid (Injection) Run time (10 min x 450C)


PH Check (PH- 4.5)
Color dosing (15min x 450C)
Raising Temp at 1300C & Run time 45 min

Cooling at 78C
Sample Check
Drain
Normal hot wash
Drain

Reduction cleaning
Water fill

Caustic Dosing (700C X 5 min)


Run 20
Raising Temp at 900C
Hydrose dosing
Run time (20 min)
Bath Drain

Normal wash
Drain

Cotton part dyeing


Level In (water from P.T)
Levelling agent injection

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Salt dosing (10 min x 60C)


Run time 20 min
Color dosing (30 min x 60C)
Run time 20 min
Soda dosing (50 min x 60C)
Run time 10 min
Caustic dosing (30 min x 60C)
Check ph
Sample check
Normal hot wash
Drain
MIR rising 10 min
Bath drop

After Treatment
Water fill
Temp. raised
Acetic Acid inject at 45C & run 10

J.S100 at 80C & run

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Dyeing Sequence for migration:


Level In (Water from p.t at 600 )
Check ph
Leveling agent injection (600 c)
Color dosing linear (600 c x 35 min)
Run 20 min
0
Salt dosing (60 c x 15 min)
Check ph
Raise temp 800
Run 20 min
Down temp 600
Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (600 c x 50 min)
Sample check
MIR rising 10 min
Bath drop

About Machine
In VIYELLATEX two Brands of machines are usedTHIES (GERMANY)
FONGS(CHINA)
Comparison between Fongs And Thies dyeing m/s
Parameter
1 .Manufacturer
2.No of additional 01
tank
3.Heat exchanger
Vertical
4.OperatingTSystem
737 XL
2
nozzle/lid,So
5.Nozzle&
Production
6.Chemical
Has Vibrating
Tank

Thies

Fongs

Germany

China
02
Horizontal
FC 22/FC 28
1 nozzle/lid, Less
pro
dn.
Compressed air

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Types of M/CS according to Temperature


High Temperature M/C
Atmospheric M/C

Main Parts Of The Machines


Main tank
Preparation tank
Pump
Filter
Heat Exchanger
Additional tank
Lid

Filter
The filter eliminates the loose fibres in the dye bath,
consequently it reduces the loose fibre loads on the fabric.
Changing and cleaning the filters is sometimes forgotten, with the
result that the dyeing machine's nozzle pressure decreases, with
the effect that running is disturbed and tangles can occur.
automatic self cleaning filter system
No cleaning of filter.
No pressure variation in the nozzles due to lint buildup due to
automatic regulation system.
No lint on fabric due to 100 % filtration of the circulation liquor.

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Additional Tank
Addition tank is used for Color dosing
Salt dosing
Chemical dosing
Auxiliaries injection
Salt dissolving

Heat exchanger
Theory of Application
Two fluids, of different starting temperatures, flow through the heat
exchanger.
One flows through the tubes (the tube side) and the other flows
outside the tubes but inside the shell (the shell side).
Heat is transferred from one fluid to the other through the tube
walls, either from tube side to shell side or vice versa.
The fluids can be either liquid or gases on either the shell or the
tube side. In order to transfer heat efficiently, a large heat transfer
area should be used, so there are many tubes. In this way, waste
heat can be put to use. This is a great way to conserve energy.

Function of dissolution pump


Dissolution pump makes the chemical concentration
(salt,soda,dye,auxiliaries) low before passing it to the main tank.
This concentration is reduced in 1:4 ratio(liquor from additional
tank: liquor from main tank).
As a result rate of chemical dosing become slow which gives better
fixation.
Thus better color yield and even dyeing can obtain.

Advantages of variable chamber setting


Better alignment of the fabric
More loading facility

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Less Entanglement

Ways of liquor flow from additional tank


TWO WAYS1. Injection
2. Dosing

Linear dosing

Progressive dosing

Decreasive dosing

FEATURES OF FONGS ATMOSPHERIC M/C


The M/C is designed for the pre-treatment, dyeing and aftertreatment under atmospheric condition.

Nozzle is sized for smooth passing through by the fabric and


extensive exchange with the dyeing liquid.

Two standard nozzle sizes with sufficiently large diameter are


available.

Circulation pump is sized for heavy fabric


Production capacity:500kgs
Max temperature:98C
Max pressure:1atm
Features of high temperature machine
The M/C is designed for the pre-treatment, dyeing and aftertreatment which can provide temperature up to 140c

nozzle lead get interlock after temperature


exceed 80C
Loading per nozzle 250kg
Design pressure:350-550kpa
Design Temp

:140C

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Hydraulic Test Pressure:585Kpa


Manufacturer: Germany(Thies),Taiwan(Fongs)
No of nozzles:1-6
Features of FONGS(HSJ) machines
Variable Loading (VL) storage chamber design gives extra capacity
to carry loading up to 280 kg per tube
Heat Exchanger of extreme efficiency gives the largest heating rate
with minimum heat loss to the environment
Multi Saving Rinsing System (MSR) shortens the dye cycle and
reduces the water consumption
Advanced Intelligent Rinsing System (MIR) controls the rinsing water
consumption and shortens the rinsing process
Highly optimized machine structure reaches the lowest possible
liquor ratio of 1:4.5 to run the machine .
Dissolution pump for proper circulation of liquor.
safety valve test:350kpa
Maximum fabric speed: 400 m/min.
Maximum working temperature: 140 C
Design pressure:350kpa
Hydraulic test pressure:510kpa

MIR RINSING

Multi-function intelligent rinsing system


If the temperature is below 80C It is a Low Level Continuous
Rinsing Shorten Rinsing Time
Save Rinsing Water
Fill and Drain at the same time at low level

MSR Rinsing

MULTI- SAVING RINSING SYSTEM

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If the temperature above 80c It is Combined Cooling and Rinsing at


high temperature
Save Steam in Hot Rinsing
Rinsing efficiency at higher temperature is faster, so rinsing time is
shortened

The factors to feed and check before loading Variable Chamber setting according to the linear density and
loading.
Calculate and feed the exact MLR and feed in batch Data
Ensure the MSR level and MIR level and flow.
Ensure the pH of Dyeing

The factors to concentrate during dyeingThe operator should change the filter After Enzyme wash
After Drain dyeing Bath
After Rinsing Bath

DYEING PARAMETER CONTROL CHART


Water level before fabric loading(Lit)
Loading Time(min)

Water level after fabric loading(after running 05 min)
Dosing time of caustic

Run time

Dosing time of per-oxide

Total time need to raise temp.of 105:


Gradiant (Degree/min)

Total run time(min)

Total time need to cooling at 80c

Gradiant (Degree/min)

Total MIR /Rinsing time to 50c

Total run time after acid dosing

Check PH

Total runtime after peroxide killer dosing

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Check residual per-oxide(ppm)


CheckPHbeforeenzymedosing
Total run time during enzyme

DYEING

Water level (Lit)


Check PH before color/salt dosing
Total time for color dosing
Total run time
Total time for salt dosing
Total run time
Check PH after salt dosing
Total time for soda dosing
Check PH after soda
dosing(Afterrunningthem/c05min)
Total time need to B/D
Drain the m/c
Total time for MIR/ Rinsing
Drain the m/c
Total time for
acid
Check PH and TDS(ppm)
Temp for soaping
Soaping time
Drain the m/c
2ndsoapingtemp
Soapingtime
Drain the m/c
Total MIR/Rinsing time

Common dyeing faults with their remedies


Uneven dyeing
Causes:

Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).


Improper color dosing.
Using dyes of high fixation property.
Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.

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Lack of control on dyeing m/c


Remedies:
By ensuring even pretreatment.
By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
Proper controlling of dyeing m/c

Batch to Batch Shade variation


Causes:

Fluctuation of Temperature.
Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
Dyes lot variation.
Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
Improper pretreatment.

Remedies:
Use standard dyes and chemicals.
Maintain the same liquor ratio.
Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of
the Shade. .
The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water
should check daily.

Patchy dyeing effect


Causes:

Entanglement of fabric.
Faulty injection of alkali.
Improper addition of color.
Due to hardness of water.
Due to improper salt addition.
Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
Uneven heat in the machine, etc

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Remedies:
By ensuring proper pretreatment.
Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
Proper salt addition.

Roll to Roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:


Causes:

Poor migration property of dyes.


Improper dyes solubility.
Hardness of water.
Faulty m/c speed, etc

Remedies:
Use standard dyes and chemicals.
Proper m/c speed.
Use of soft water

Crease mark:
Causes:
Poor opening of the fabric rope
Shock cooling of synthetic material
If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
Reducing the m/c load
Higher liquor ratio

Dye spot:
Causes:
Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.

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Remedies:
By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel
mesh strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed

Wrinkle mark
Causes:
Poor opening of the fabric rope
Shock cooling of synthetic material
High temperature entanglement of the fabric
Remedies:
Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
Higher liquor ratio

Softener Mark:
Causes:
Improper mixing of the Softener.
Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.
Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of
softener

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Finishing:
Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of
processes to which all bleached, dyed, printed and certain grey fabrics
are subjected before they are put on the market. In fact, finishing includes
the final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every kind of fiber

Objective of finishing:
Improving the appearance Luster, whiteness, etc

Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material and
its softness suppleness fullness, etc.
,

Wearing qualities, none soiling, anticrease, antishrink, comfort, etc.

Special properties required for particular uses water proofing,

flame proofing, etc.


Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
Increasing the weight of the cloth.

Types of finishing:
a)
b)

1) Chemical finishing:
Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers.
Application of the handle modifying products / additives.
2) Mechanical finishing:
Mechanical treatment with machines

Finishing effects:
Easy - care
Crease recovery.
Dimensional stability.
Good abrasion resistance.
Improved tear strength.
Good sew ability
Soft or stiff handle.
Shine or luster

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Organogram of Finishing Section:


Executive Director (E.D)
Manager / Asst.Manager
Sr. Principle officer (P.O)

Finished Fabric

On line System
Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor
/ Jr. Supervisor

Finished Collar / Cuff

Off line system

Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor /


Jr. Supervisor

Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor


/ Jr. Supervisor

Quality Controller
Asst. Quality Controller

Quality Controller

Quality Controller

Asst. Quality Controller

Asst. Quality Controller

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Flow chart of finishing section :


Finishing Section

Open fabric

Tube fabric

Slitting machine

Dewatering machine

Stentering

Drying Machine

Compacting
machine

Tube compacting
machine

Final
Inspection

Final
inspection

Flow chart:

For Peach finish/Brush:


Slitting

Stenter

Sueding/Raising

Stenter

Compacting

For Lycra:

Slitting

Heat Setting

Sewing

Drying

Slitting

Stenter

Compacting

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SLITTING MACHINE
Slitting Machine specification:
No of Slitting m/c : 02
Slitting m/c-1:
Brand name- Corino(SH)
Country- Italy
Year of manufacturing-2007
Slitting m/c-2:
Brand name- Bianco(SH)
Country- Italy
Year of manufacturing-2007
Velocity maximum-90m/min
Slitting:
Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through
the intended break Wales line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter
processing.

Machine parts:
1. Rotary blade: To cut the fabric through break Wales line.
2. Ring: To help cutting.
3. Guide Roller: To guide the fabric to plaiting.
4. Plaiting: To plait the fabric.
5. Sensor: Sense for cutting through break Wales line.

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Slitting Machine

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Working principle:
The slitting m/c has 4 units - initial squeezer, de-twisting, slitter
and padder. After dyeing completed and falling of water from fabric the
fabric is fed in slitting m/c. So it is necessary to remove some water
initially for the case of further processing in this m/c. The initial squeezer
does this work. The de-twisting unit removes twists that may present in
tubular rope form fabric. This unit has 3 de-twisting rollers, one rotation
drum and 2 feeler rollers with sensors. By these rollers it detects twist in
fabric and removes by rotating rope fabric in opposite direction. Before
slitting there is a blower which blows air to open the tubular fabric &
makes it easy to pass over cigger. The cigger can be extended in
circumference and opens the tubular fabric in full circumference. Slitting is
done by using open mark detecting golden eye by around knife. Then the
fabric passes through the padder where washing or chemical treatment is
done. Squeezer is used to remove 60-70% of water. After removing water
width is controlled by stretcher and fabric is delivered by folding device.
Operational parameter:
-Set the padder pressure as required (3-7bar)
-Set the speed as much as possible (30-80m/min).

Function of the Machine:


Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing.
To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and
ready for stentering.
Delivered fabric in crease free state.
Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of
compressed air passing by a nozzle or air sprayer.
It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by
over feeding mechanism.

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DEWATERING MACHINE
Dewatering Machine specification:
No of Dewatering m/c

: 02

Machine no
Machine name
Brand name
Country
Padder pressure
Pressure capacity

: 01
: Dewatering
: Heliot
: France
: 1-1.5 bar
: 4 bar

Machine no
Machine name
Brand name
Country
Padder pressure
Pressure Capacity

: 02
: Dewatering
: Heliot
: France
: 1-1.5bar
: 4 bar

Function:

Reduce water content.


Apply chemicals.
Apply over feed to give some compaction.
Open the fabric from the rope form.
Width wise stretch the fabric.
Plait the fabric.

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Dewatering Machine

Fabric path in Dewatering Machine

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Working principle of Dewatering:


After completing the dyeing process from the dyeing m/c then the
fabrics are ready for de-watering. In de-watering m/c tubular fabrics are
mainly processed. There is a magnetic sensor which scene the twist of the
fabric and its direction and turn the fabric in opposite direction to remove
twist automatically. Here dewatering is performed
De-watering is the
process to remove the water from the fabric completely by squeezing and
it is done by the padder. A suitable expander is used before the fabric is
passed through the nip of the padders, which expands the fabric flat wise
and adjust the width. The expander width is adjusted as S/J- 20%, PK-25%,
Int.-35%, Lacoste-40% wider than the required width. There is a pair of
rubber coated padder, where water is removed from fabric when passed
through the nip of it.
Normally squeezer contain single or double padders where,
- One for removing water and
- Other for applying finishing chemicals such as softener.
But this finishing is done only for the tubular fabric. Open width knitted
fabrics are applied finishing treatment later in stenter.
Here present the compressor which given compress air to form ballooning
before passing through the padder. This balloon remove crease mark but
not form the maximum balloon otherwise shrinkage increase

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DRYER
Machine specification :
No. of Dryer : 02
Dryer no -1
Brand name- Heliot
Origin- France
Chamber-3
Year of construction 2006
Ratiomatic Burner:
Brand name:ECLIPSE
Year-03/2002
Capacity-300 kw
Voltage-230/400 v
Frequency-50Hz
Fuel- Natural gas
Pressure- (150-500) m bar
Dryer no- 2
Brand name-Santex AG
Origin Switzerland
Type-SANTASHINK
Chamber -5
Year of construction- 2008
Fuel combustion chamber:
Fuel- Natural gas
Fuel pressure-7.2m bar
Capacity-300kw
Voltage-240/400v
Frequency-50Hz
Year-12/2007

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Dryer

Working principle of dryer:


After de-watering then the fabric through the dryer. The main function of
the dryer is given below,
- To dry the fabric.
- To control the overfeed system.
- To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M.
This machine contains two chambers. Two mesh endless conveyors are
placed lengthwise to the chamber named conveyor net and filter net, each
chamber contain a burner, which supply hot air .This hot air is guided
through the ducting line by suction fan .There are nozzles placed in
between filter net and conveyor net .When the fabric pass on the conveyor
net, hot air is supplied to the wet fabric to dry it. There are exhaust fan
which such the wet air and deliver to the atmosphere through the ducting
line.
The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the m/c & the
G.S.M of the fabric. If the m/c temp. is high then m/c speed also high and
the m/c temp. is low then m/c speed also low . The vibration speed of the
m/c for heavy fabric is 730 m/min and normal fabric is 480 m/min.

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STENTER
Machine specification :
No. of Stenter : 02
Stenter m/c no - 01
Brand name - Sun-Super
Country of origin -South Korea
Manufacturing date-: 2006
Width Range -2700
Maximum Speed - 100m/min
Chamber - 8
Stenter m/c no 2
Brand name - BRUCKNER
Country - Germany
Manufacturing Year 2004
Chamber 5
Maximum steam pressure 2bar
Maximum air pressure 10bar
Ratiomatic Burner for Fuel Combustion:
Origin - Germrny
Year-11/2003
Capacity-200 kw
Voltage-230/400 v
Frequency-50/60Hz
Fuel- Natural gas
Pressure- 50 m bar

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Important parts of stenter


-Burner (12)
- Exhaust air fan (16)
-Over feed roller.
- Suction fan (12)
-Nozzle
-Chain arrangement.

Stenter machine

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FUNCTION OF STENTER:
-

Drying
Shrinkage control.
Heat setting.
Width control Finishing chemical application.
Loop control.
Moisture control.
Spirility control.

STANDARD OPERATING
FABRIC IN STENTER:

PARAMETER

FOR

DIFFERENT

Fabric Type

GSM

Dia

Tempera
ture

Over
Feed

Padder
Pressue

Speed
(rpm)

Blower
rpm

Single
jersey
Single
jersey
Lycra Single
jersey

115150
160220
160200

2+

110-140

2 bar

30-35

2+

120-170

2.5 bar

25-30

4+

130-160

4045%
4045%
50%

2 bar

25-30

11001300
12001400
12001400

Lycra Single 200jersey


250

4+

140-160

50%

2 bar

24-28

12001400

Pique

3+

130-160
130-160

1.52bar
2 bar

25-30

4+

4045%
50%

4+

140-170

2 bar

20-25

2+

130-160

4045%
45%

2 bar

24-28

2+

140-160

45%

2 bar

20-25

3+

130-160

50%

2 bar

20-25

12001400
12001400
13001400
13001400
12001400
12001400

Lycra Pique
Fleece/Terry
1x1 Rib
2x2 Rib
Interlock

160200
190220
260300
160220
190220
190220

20-25

*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle.


*Others fabric feed, straight.

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COMPACTOR
Machine specification of compactor:
No. of Compacting m/c: 02
Tube Compactor:
Machine name Tube compactor
Brand name Heliot
Country - France
Manufacturing Year 2004

Tube Compactor machine


Open Compactor:
Machine name Open compactor
Brand name FERRARO
Country Italy
Manufacturing Year 2004

Open Compactor machine

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Function

To control shrinkage.
To control width.
To control GSM.
To smooth fabric.
Heat seating of fabric for lycra.

Important parts
-

Over feed roller.

Expander.

Blanket(2)

Operational parameter:
-Set the temperature at 120 C (as required)
-Set the speed as much as possible (15-25 m/min).GSM m/c speed.
-Set the overfeed % as required; to increase GSM, overfeed need to
increase to a certain limit.

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STANDARD OPERATING PARAMETER


FABRIC IN OPEN COMPACTOR

Fabric
type

Colour

Speed

Over
Feed

Temperatur
e

Single
jersey

White
Colour

15-18
15-18

25-30
25-30

Pique
(s/j,d/j)

White
Colour

15-18
15-18

Lycra s/j White


Colour

12-16
12-16

1x1 Rib

White
Colour

2x2 Rib

Interloc
k

FOR

DIFFERENT

90-110
110-120

Blanket
Pressur
e
1.52bar

Teflon
Pressur
e
36psi

30-35
30-35

100
110-120

1.52bar

36psi

100-110
100-120

1.52bar

36psi

15-20
15-20

Full
over
feed
20-30
20-30

100
110-120

1.52bar

36psi

White
Colour

12-15
12-15

25-30
25-30

100
110-120

1.52bar

36psi

White
Colour

12-16
12-16

Full
over
feed

100
110-120

1.52bar

36psi

*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle.


*Others fabric feed, straight.

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RAISING MACHINE
Machine specification of Raising Machine :
No. of Raising m/c : 02
Raising m/c - 01(Single drum)
Brand name - Lafer
Country
- Italy
Cylinder
-1
Drum Speed - 110
Drum Dia
- 68 inch
Machine Speed - 40 m/min
Pile Roller - 12
Counter Pile Roller - 12
Manufacturing Year 2002

Fabric path in Raising m/c (Single drum)

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Raising m/c-02(Double drum)


Brand name Lafer
Country Italy
Cylinder- 2
Drum Speed - 110
Drum Dia
- 68 inch
Machine Speed - 40 m/min
Pile Roller - 24
Counter Pile Roller - 24
Manufacturing Year 2002

Fabric path in Raising m/c (double drum)

FUNCTION OF RAISING MACHINE:


To produce the brush effect.
To produce the fleece fabric.
To raise the fibre on the fabric surface.

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SUEDING MACHINE
A sueder is sometimes referred to a s a sander since the machine
consists of one or more rolls covered with sand paper as the abrasive.
Fabrics traveling over these rolls develop a very low pile and the materials
surface can be made to feel like suede leather. The hand will depend on
the fiber composition, the filament count in the yarn and the intensity with
which the fabric is worked.
Filament fabrics can be made to feel like a spun fabric and all fabrics will
have a softer hand.
Machine Specification of Sueding Machine:
No.Of Sueding m/c: 01
Brand name
Country
Cylinder
Company name
Model
Drum Speed
Drum Dia
Machine Speed
Manufacturing Year

: Lafer
:Italy
:1
: SPA Machine Tessili
: GSI 106
: 110
: 72 inch
: 40 m/min
:2002

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Sample of Raised & Sueded Fabric:


SAMPLES:

Single Drum Raised Fabric

Double Drum Raised Fabric

Single Drum Raised Fabric


Fabric

Double Drum Raised

Sueded Fabric

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Process Flow Chart of Final Inspection :(Q.A.D)


After completing finishing process here firstly check the shade as per
buyer standard with dimensional stability from lab.
Secondly check dia / width fabric weight or G.S.M
Thirdly check fabric surface or appearance as per buyer standard.
The every roll with every meter check as per four (04) point system.
Make a report.
If OK then ready for delivery.
If not OK then identify the fault.
If it is knitting fault then inform the knitting department by job card and
mail, & requested the fabric for replacement.
If it is dyeing fault & If make sure that it is reprocess able then give job
card to dyeing department correction. And if is not reprocess able then
reject the fabric & inform the dyeing department to replace the rejected
quantity.

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FABRIC FAULTS, CAUSES AND REMIDIES

FAULT

CAUSE

REMIDIES

HOLE

DUE
TO
YARN
BREAKAGE AND YARN
FAULT
IF THE DUST OF
ENZYME
IS
NOT
CLEAN PROPERLY
OIL STICK ON FABRIC
FROM
NEEDLE,
SINKER OR CYLINDER
DYES POWDER FALLS
ON TO THE WET
FABRICS
BEFORE INSPECTION
IF FABRIC STORED IN
WET FLOOR
DIFFERENT TYPES OF
YARN MIXED DURING
KNITTING
DIFFERENT DUST OR
SLUBS
MIXED
DURING KNITTING
IF SOFTENER IS USED
UNDER 45C

USE GOOD QUALITY


OF YARN

RUB MARK
OIL STAIN
DYE STAIN
WATER SPOTS
FLY YARN
YARN
CONTAMINATION
SOFTENER SPOT
PATCHES
HAIRY
NEEDLE LINE
DEAD COTTON
CREASE MARK

FLOW
CONTINUOUS
AIR
TO
FABRIC
DURING COMPACTING
USE
SOLUBLE OIL
AND KEEP THE M/CS
CLEAN
STORE THE FABRICS
BY COVERING
BY
WASHING
AND
STORE FABRIC IN DRY
PLACE
COVER THE KNITTING
M/C
DURING
KNITTING
KEEP THE M/C AREA
CLEAN

USE
SOFTENER
UNDER
REQUIRED
TEMP.
IF SODA IS NOT USED USE SODA PROPERLY
PROPERLY
IF THE ENZYME WASH GIVE ENZYME WASH
IS
NOT
PROPERLY PROPERLY
DONE
FOR FAULTY NEEDLE
REPLACE THE FAULTY
NEEDLE
FOR IMMATURE FIBRE USE
YARN
OF
MATURED FIBRE
FOR
THERMAL INCREASE
DYEBATH
SHOCK,
UNEVEN TEMP.
NOZZLEPRESSURE
SLOWLY,MAINTAIN
AND BAD QUALITY NOZZLE
PRESSURE
LEVELLING AGENT
AND
USE
GOOD
QUALITY
LEVELLING
AGENT

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Sample Development :
Sample is the prototype or model o the garment, upon what the buyer can
decide on how and whiter to confirm the order or not.

Organ gram of sample department :


There are about 175 total employees working in the Viyellatex Group
sample department including executives and workers. There are also some
supervisors and coordinators to stimulate and take care the sample job.
Let us see the organogram below to know more about the sample
department
Manager

Patten Master
Pattern asst.

Officer/Coordinator

Officer. QC

Fabric Coordinator

QC/AQC

Sample man

Folding Man

Accessories Issue Man


Cutter man
Iron Man
Purchase/Marketing man
Sample Asst.
Sample Input man
Sample Operator

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Sampling Process Flowchart :


Receiving Tec Pak from buyer (Via Merchandiser)
CAD & Pattern Making (Styling & Measurement)
Sample Making

Approval

Failed

Size Setting (One Development Stage)

Re Sample Making

Evaluation the Sample


Pre Production Meeting (Decides on when to produce)

Grading of sample
Sending sample to the buyer

Sending Sample
to the Cutting Section

Market Making Production stats


Approval Grading of Sample

Brief Description of the Sampling Processes:


1. Tec Pack Receiving: This is the firs stage of the sampling
processes. In this stage Tec Pack or the technical pack is received from
the buyer, via merchandiser. Tec pack contains all the specifications to
produce a garment.
2. CAD & Pattern Making: In this stage pattern is made through CAD.
Sometimes pattern is made manually, but CAD is more popular and
easy. Computer-aided design (CAD) is the use of computer
technology for the design of objects, real or virtual. The design of
geometric models for object shapes, in particular, is often called
computer-aided geometric design (CAGD).However CAD often
involves more than lust shapes. As in the manual drafting of technical
and engineering drawings, the output of CAD often must convey also
symbolic information such as materials, processes. dimensions, and
tolerances, according to application-specific conventions. CAD may be
used to design curves and figures in two-dimensional (2D) space; or
curves, surfaces, or solids in three-dimensional (3D) objects.
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Viyellatex pattern section uses OptiTex CAD software for pattern


making.
3. Sample Making: Sample making is the ultimate goal of this
department. After making the pattern, the sample is made by using the
pattern set.
4. Size Setting: After making the sample, size is set according to the
Tec Pack. If there is any fault, the sample is redone
5. Pre Production (PP) Meeting: after the buyer has inspected the
sample, a preproduction meeting is called. In this meeting buyer or his
agent, merchandiser, sample manager. all remain present. They decide
on how to and when to start the production. If the decision Okayed. the
sample is ready to go for final production.
6. Grading of Sample: After finalizing the sample. grading is done to
separate the samples and patterns from each others.
7. Marker After grading the samples. the design is inputted into the
marker software. This software specifies how to set the pattern in the
actual fabric. By using the marking software efficiently, fabric can be
saved. Viyellatex uses Gerbar Garment Technology (GGT) for marker
making.
8. Cutting: After making the pattern is delivered to the cutting unit and
the fabric is cut for final production.

Sample Procedure
There are some standard sample procedures after pattern making, the are
as follows,
Sourcing the Fabric and Accessories for making the Garment
Cutting (For Sample Only)
Emblishment
Sewing
Iron
Quality Control (QC)
Pre check from
Buyer QC
Forwarding form the merchandiser
Sending sample to the buyer

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Types of sample and their use


Serial

Sample

Use

01

Proto/ Development Sample

To converts pattern in to actual garment.

02

Size set/Grad / Fitting

no.

03

To fit the styling of the garments

Sample
Additional Sample (White

All these samples are made to how the

only magazine , Photo)

garments no the rack

04

Contract Seal / Seal sample

To gain approval before the bulk

05

Per Production (pp) sample

production
To gain approval before the bulk

06

Production Sample

production
To gain approval for shipping the

07
08

Sales Man Sample (SMS)

garments
To gain approval for shipping the

Rack Sample

garment
To show the garment on the rack

Pattern Making Flowchart


Tec Pack Deceived
Sketching Pattern
Printing / plotting
Pattern Cutting
Hardware & Software used in Pattern Making
1 CAD Software . Gerber Garments Technology (GGT)
2 Maker Making software - PCs
3 Gerber Plotter 3 pcs
4 Pattern design software (PDS ) , opti Tex 4 PCs

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Types of Machine
Sampling process is the most important department in a garment factory .
With proper sample, one can not achieve enough order. Do there is several
number of machine are used in the sampling section and craftsmanship in
also very important
Serial
no
01
02

Type of machine
Single needle Lock Stitch
4 Thread Over Lock

Qty in
pcs
52
20

03
04

Flat Lock
Blind Lock

17
1

05

06
07
08
09

Chain Stitch Machine (Single


Needle)
Over Lock Open stitch
PMD Kansai
Bar tack
Button Attach

10
11
12

Button Hole
Shade stick
Thread Recone

1
1
1

13

snap button

14
15

Plain Machine Zig Zag


Back Neck beck tape attack

1
1

Total

1
1
1
1

Use
Single Stitch
Using 4 treads to
lock the joint
Normal Stitch
Straight Overlock
Hem
Making chain stitch
in the garment
Over Lock
Attaching Parts
Heavy Stitch
Attaching button
in the garment
Making button hole
Straight sewing
Thread transferring
between bobbins
Metal button
Attachment
Crosses sewing
Attaching back
neck tape

102

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Garments Cutting Section


M/C Specification:
Auto Spreader (4):
M/C No.: 01
Brand Name: Jutex
Country: Germany
Year of Manufacturing: 2006
M/C No.: 02
Brand Name: Gerber
Country: Germany
Year of Manufacturing: 2006
M/C No.: 03
Brand Name: Gerber
Country: Germany
Year of Manufacturing: 2007
M/C No.: 04
Brand Name: Gerber
Country: Germany
Year of Manufacturing: 2006
Hand Cutter (20):
Brand Name: Mack (10)
Country: Japan
Speed: 3000/3600
Volt: 220
Frequency: 50/60 Hz
Phase:1
Blade: Straight bar blade
Brand Name: Blue Streak (10)
Country: USA
Speed: 2850
Volt: 220
Frequency: 50Hz
Phase:1
Blade: Straight bar blade
Auto Cutter (1):
Brand Name: Gerber
Country: Germany

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STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE OF CUTTING


SECTION
Cutting department receives Tech Pack from merchandiser and PP sheet of
a style from IE.
Cutting department checks whether sample, master pattern and fabrics
are ready or not.
If ready cutting department collect sample, marker and fabric (for size set)
from the sample section, CAD section and fabric store.
Cutting department gives a lay for size set sample, cut, sew in the size set
line, print, wash, embroidery all are done and measurement are taken in
all the steps.

If it is found that an adjustment is required in the master pattern, than


cutting manager, buyer QC and pattern master check and make necessary
correction as per grading and informs pattern and CAD section.

Then cutting department collects fabrics for bulk production from store
and checks whether the GSM of every roll is fine or not and check the
width of fabric for that lot.

If fabric GSM is ok, cutting department sends information to CAD section


containing in which width and ratio of fabric they are going to cut that
particular cutting.

CAD prepares marker and sends it


If in that style self fabric for neck
is required,
to the cutting section.
Cutting in charge informs the
spreading
machine operator to keep particular amount
of fabric from each roll.
Spreading starts and completed.
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Marker is placed on the lay and then costape is attached.


Cutting starts and completed.

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SEWING SECTION
List of machines in Sewing Unit:

Machine name

M/C quantity

Plain Stitching m/c

1290

Over Lock Stitching m/c

600

Flat Lock m/c

400

Button Hole m/c

25

Button Stitching m/c

25

Bar Tack m/c

40

Picoting m/c

02

Plain zig zig m/c

04

Kansai m/c

10

Two Needle Chain Stitching m/c

40

Two Needle Lock Stitching m/c

06

Suttle Stitching m/c

04

Fusing m/c

09

Heat Transfer m/c

13

Machine Specification:
Brand Name
Juki
Pegasus
Kansai
Brother
Pup
Sun Star

Country
Japan
Japan
Japan
Japan
Japan
Korea

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Garments Finishing Section


Process Sequence of Garments Finishing:
1. Quality inspection after sewing

Check hole body of the garments i.e., inside & outside , stitch, neck,
placket, 4 point etc.

Q. I. Pass
(Green carrier)

Reject
(Red
carrier)

Alter
(Yellow
carrier)

Spot
(Blue
carrier)

Spot room

Audit check lot- wise


with measurement

Return sewing
section
Spot lifter

Q.I. check
for alter ok

Again Q.I.
check

Q.
Pass

Q.
Fail

Q.
Pass

Q.
Fail

Q.
Pass

Q.
Fail

Recheck
2. Thread Sucker
Folding (Body turning)

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Page 176

3. Running Iron
4. Quality check
(finishing)

Reject

Q. Pass

Spot
Spot room

Alter
Take necessary
action

Q. check

Q.
Check

Pass

Fail

5. Measurement
check

Alter

Pass

Measurement
problem

Reject

Return to the sewing section


for necessary action

Measurement
iron

Q.
check

Fail

Again Measurement
check

Pass

6. Get-up
check

Pass

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Fail

Page 176

Pass

Fail

7. Sleeve and shoulder check

Alter

Pass

Fail/reject

Return to sewing section


for necessary action
8. Hang tag attach

9. Getup iron (If appearance is not


good)
10. Metal detector
11. Q. check (only appearance check due
to new buyer or buyer requirement but all
body are passed )
12. Folding

Hard tag attach (if buyer

13. Poly pack


14. Assorting
15. Blister (According to buyer requirement)
16. cartoning
17. Carton sticker attach
18. SHIPMENT

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ORGANOGRAM
CEO

COO

DGM

EXECUTIVE

PRODUCTION OFFICER

SUPERVISOR

SHIFTSUPERVISOR
QUALITY SUPERVISOR
SUPERVISOR

OPERATOR
Q.I
STORE STUFF

HELPER
LOADER

STORE

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MACHINE CAPACITY
DRYING MACHINE:
COSMOTEX:
CAPACITY=50-60 KG
TEMP= 150C
ORIGIN = SPAIN
GREENMAC:
CAPACITY=40-50 KG
TEMP = 70-75C
ORIGIN = CHINA
DYEING MACHINE:
COSMOTEX:
CAPACITY=150 KG
TEMP.= 100C
ORIGIN = SPAIN
SAMPLE DYEING MACHINE:
COSMOTEX:
CAPACITY=30 KG
TEMP.= 100C
ORIGIN = SPAIN
HYDRO-EXTRACTOR:
GREENMAC:
R.P.M= 2000
ORIGIN= CHINA

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Flow Chart for Garments dyeing (Light Shade)


Water fill + garment load

NOF
Run 10 at 80C
Normal wash two times at normal temp.

Dyeing water fill


Check PH 6.5
Levelling agent
Run time 10
Temperature raised at 80C

Color dosing 10
run 10
Salt dosing 10
run 10
Soda dosing 10
Run until desired shade
Bath drain

Normal wash two times

Acetic Acid dosing 2 & run 5 at normal temp.

Bath drain

E.C(Fixing agent) dosing 5 & run 10 at 45C

Softener dosing 5 & run 10 at 45C

Bath drain

M:L= 1:8

CHEMICALS USE IN WASHING


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CHEMICA
L NAME
WETTING
AGENT

BRAND
NAME
FELOSONNOF

LEVELLING
AGENT

DBC

ANTI BACK
STAIN
FIXING
AGENT

CYCLONEAN

PURPOSE
increases the spreading
and penetrating
properties of a liquid by
lowering its surface
tension
low foaming, ensure
smooth dyeing process.
Are slowing down the
exhaustion speed of the
dyestuffs

REDUCE COLOR
BLEEDING
SANDOFIXTO FIX THE DYE
EC
MOLECULES INTO THE
FIBRE
SOAPING CIBAPONE-R
FASTNESS
AGENT
IMPROVEMENT,
REDUCE UNFIXED
DYE
SOFTENER
ROCOFIN
FEELING SOFT OF
GWE
THE FABRIC
NEONSOPH
T
STIFFENIN
INCREASES THE
G AGENT
STRENGTH OF THE
FABRIC
A.ACID
to create acidity medium
and to control the PH.
BLEACHIN
G AGENT
ENZYME
PRECATIONIZA
TION
BINDER

OCEAN
MAGIC
BIOPOLISHB14
DENIMCOL
FIX GF
DENIMCOL
GFC

TO CHANGE THE
ORGINAL COLOR
TO REMOVE
HAIRINESS
TO CONVERT THE
FABRIC INTO ANIONIC
FORM TO CATIONIC.
to bind the pigment
particles and develop
adhesion to a surface

MANUFAC
TURER
CHT

ORIGIN
SWITZERL
AND

BASF

GERMANY

CHEMI
WORLD
UNICON
RESOURCE

GERMANY

TEX
CONCERN

TAIWAN/
INDIA/
KOREA

ITALY

CHINA
MULTI
CHEMI

SRILANKA

TYPES OF WASH
1. GARMENT WASH
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2.
3.
4.
5.

ENZYME WASH
ACID WASH
NORMAL WASH
VINTAGE WASH

GARMENT WASH

WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD

DETERGENT DOSING (5 MIN. AT 45C)


RUN 5 MIN.
BATH DRAIN

NORMAL WASH TWO TIMES

WATER FILL

SOFTENER DOSING (5 MIN. AT 45C)


RUN 5 MIN
BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD

HYDRO-EXTRACTOR

DRYER

ENZYME WASH
WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD

NOF DOSING (3 MIN. AT 55C)

A. ACID DOSING (3 MIN. AT 55C)


CHECK PH=4.5
ENZYME DOSING (3 MIN. AT 55C)
RUN UNTIL DESIRED RESULT
BATH DRAIN

NORMAL WASH TWO TIMES

SOFTENER DOSING (3 MIN. AT 45C)


RUN 10 MIN
BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD

HYDRO-EXTRACTOR

DRYER

VINTAGE WASH

WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD


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SODA+ DETERGENT, DOSING (5 MIN. AT 60C)
RUN 20 MIN.
BATH DRAIN

A. ACID DOSING (3 MIN. AT NORMAL TEMP.)


RUN 5 MIN.
SOFTENER DOSING (5 MIN. AT 45C)
RUN 10 MIN
BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD

HYDRO-EXTRACTOR

DRYER

ACID WASH

WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD

POTTASH DOSING (10 MIN. AT 45C)


RUN UNTIL REQUIRED
RESULT
BATH DRAIN

META DOSING (10MIN. AT 45C)


RUN 10 MIN.
BATH DRAIN

SOFTENER DOSING (3 MIN. AT 45C)


RUN 10 MIN
BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD

HYDRO-EXTRACTOR

DRYER

NORMAL WASH
WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD
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DETERGENT DOSING (5 MIN. AT 45C)
RUN 5 MIN.
BATH DRAIN

NORMAL WASH TWO TIMES

BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD

HYDRO-EXTRACTOR

DRYER

Check Points

Require of shade
Hand feeling
Printing
Embroidery
Fabrics fault
Washing effects
Spirality
Label
Zipper
Bleeding
Reject

Faults found in garments after washing

Needle damage
Fabric damage
Print problem
Spot

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PRINTING
General Overview
Area Covered=50,000 sft( 2 flo0r)
Manpower=450
Per table=12-13
Auto screen m/c=7-8
Heat press m/c=3-4
Curing m/c=2-3
Capacity of Printing= 40,000-45,000 pcs per day
Machine Type
Screen shot
Drying
Expose shot
Heat press
Curing

Machine information
Auto screen shot
Manual screen shot
Auto dryer
Hand dryer
Auto expose shot
Manual expose shot
Depends on pressure &
temp. range
Depends on temp. &
belt speed

NO. of M/C
4
4
100
1
3
6
7

Printing System
Sereen Printing

Hand screen printing


Automatic Flat (Revolving) screen printing

Specification (Automatic Flat screen printing)


M/C no -1
Brand name: Diamond back Red chili
Country
: USA
No. of Head
:6
Max. Color used
:5
Drying head
:1
M/C NO:2
Brand name : Diamond back Red chili
Country
: USA
No. of Head
:8
Max. Color used : 6
Drying head
:2

M/C NO:3
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Brand name: Diamond back Red chili


Country
: USA
No. of Head
: 12
Max. Color used : 8
Drying head
:2
M/C NO:4
Brand name: Diamond back Red chili
Country
: USA
No. of Head
:8
Max. Color used : 6
Drying head
:2

Flow chart of Printing section


Artwork from merchandiser

Design input

Design development

Positive/film

Print taken

Requisition by merchandiser

Panel(cutting fabric parts)

Expose(frame adjusted)

Fila and frame adjusted

Water spray

Panel send to buyer

Buyer approval

Sale sample

Counter sample

P P production

Accessories booking

Requisition by merchandiser for fabric

Fabric received and store

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Count the fabric

Inspection the fabric

Fabric adjusted

Bulk production start

Hydro extractor from dryer

Inspection

Finishing

Delivery

Types of print
Rubber print
Pigment print(Water base print)
Foil print
Discharge print
Puff print
Glitter print
Afsan print
High density print
Plastisol print
Crack print
Gel print
Sticker/transfer print
Reflective

Design
Artwork receive from development

Detail design perform & analyze by Adove photoshop & illustrate

Prepare individual film for different color by work express software

Send to expose room

Screen Preparation:
Mesh fabric tight with frame
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Applied chemical TXR (sensitizing emulsion) on the mesh & dried 8 min in
air.
Placed design paper under the mesh.
Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4 min.
Remove the colored TXR from the design area by water spraying.

Sequence of printing
Count garment parts
Screen preparation
Printing paste preparation
Applied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked
portion
Printing the garment part by using screen
Drying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow
Curing the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 1800 c
Inspection is done in qualify control department

Process for Foil Printing


Add adhesive on the require design by screen
Place the fabric part on to the Pressing M/C
Pressing the upper part of the M/C at 100PSi, Temp-1500 For-6 Sec

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Expose Room
Mesh fabric NO.

Print Type

10,12
14
16,20

Glitter
Afsan, Discharge pigment
Rubber,Puff, High density, Foil, Gel,
Plastisol, Reflective, Crack

Print wise curing


Print type

Temperature

Rubber
Pigment
Plastisol
Discharge
Puff
Glitter
Reflective
High density
Gel
Afsan

150-160
140-150
180-200
180-200
170-180
150-160
160-170
180-200
170-180
150-160

Belt speed
m/min
4-6
4-6
4-5
3.5-4
3.5-4
4-6
4-6
3.5-4
4-5
4-6

Duration(sec)
30-45
30-45
36-45
45-52
45-52
30-45
30-45
45-52
36-45
30-45

Common print defects

Measuring fault
Print missing
Wrong color
Hand feel not correct
Color migration problem
Not properly attach
Dirty marks
Uneven print
Air bubble
Air hole
Shade variation

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Major causes of print defects

Screen & print body are not in same axis


Irregular wash of screen frame
Wrong color recipe
Insufficient drying of previous color
Inaccurate composition of fixture

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6. Improper heat & pressure


7. Dirty environment

Auto screen shot


1. Faster production
2. High color combination
3. Immediate drying between two consequetive print
Not suitable forLarge & complete body print
High density, flock & multiple color, discharge print.

Manual screen shot


1. Generally all types of print are performed
2. More time consuming
3. Drying performed by hand or auto dryer

HEAT PRESS M/C


1. GENERALLY USED FOR Foil & Sticker print
2. Matt & glossy appearance also provide by this technique
3. Print performed at a certain temp. & pressure

Drying
1. Hand drying
2. Auto drying
It is performed to dry previous color temporally
Color migration occurred due to improper drying of previous
color

Curing
Curing is the ultimate drying of print
Proper curing is the vital issue for a quality print
Curing also liable for fabric shade change due to high temp.

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EMBROIDERY
ORGANOGRAM OF EMBROIDERY
CO (Embroidery)
Embroidery manager
Assistant manager (designer)
Supervisor

( A.Q.C)

Sample man
Q.I

senior

operator
Helper

Helper

Senior operator
Assistant operator
Frame men
M/c men
Helper
Iron men

Embroidery Machine Specification


Electronic multi-head automatic Embroidery M/C
Brand: Tajima
Country: Japan
Model: TFGn-920
No. of head: 20
No. of Needle per head: 9

No. of Embroidery M/C: 7 M/Cs for Bulk production


: 1 M/C for Sample

Machine RPM= maximum 950

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Bobbin winding M/C


Brand: Tajima
Country: Japan
No of m/c: 2

Embroidery stitching type

Sartin Stitch
Tatami Stitch
Run Stitch
Motif Stitch
Cornoly Stich
Loop Stich

Method
1. By Bed
2. By Ring

Bed:

Needle fixed but Bed movable

Interlining:
Four types of interlining are used in Viyellatex3.
4.
5.
6.

Soft
Hard
Dot line
EB-50(PUMA)

Design Analysis
Art work from buyer

Input to ES-65(Software)

Design analysis

Send to buyer

Recommendation & correction from buyer

Sample prepare

Send to buyer

If approved then for bulk production

Thread used in Embroidery


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Brand Name
Country
Madera
Germany
Metal
Germany
Well
Bangladesh
Force
Bangladesh
Coats
Bangladesh
Basic
Bangladesh

Thread Count 135 x 2 Dtex


Thread contain in bobbin - 2500m

Embroidery Faults

Stitch gap
Bobbin out
Oil spot
Thread loose
Embroidery position wrong
Needle hole
Over stich

Production per day:


20,000 piece per day

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Maintenance
Maintenance is a procedure by which we can maintain active functioning in
operation according to the behavior and utility of a particular element.
Machine, buildings and other facilities are subjected to deterioration due to
their use and exposure to environmental condition. Process of
deterioration, if unchecked. culminates in rendering these service facilities
unserviceable and brings them to a standstill. In Industry, therefore has no
choice but to attend them from time to time to repair and recondition
them so as to elongate their life to the extent it is economically and
physically possible to do so. In engineering, we use this terminology for
maintaining smooth and uninterrupted performance of machines, tools
and metallurgical characteristics in practical uses

Objective of maintenance:
To keep the factory plants, equipments, machine tools in an
optimum working condition.
To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of
delivery to customer.
To keep the downtime of machines to the minimum thuds to have
control over the production program.
To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.
To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production.

Three types of maintenance are performed in Viyellatex


Group.
1. Preventive Maintenance.
2. Routine/ Schedule Maintenance.
3. Breakdown Maintenance.

Preventive

Maintenance:

Preventive
maintenance
is
a
predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection checking of
facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or
harmful description.These actions are performed to prevent or reduce
consequences of failures.
Schedule maintenance: Maintenance of different machines are
prepared by expert engineer of maintenance department. It is time-based
maintenance and pre-planned to perform on machine and equipments
Normally in case of dyeing machine maintenance after 30 days complete
checking of different important parts are done.
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Breakdown maintenance: In this type of maintenance when the


machine remains stop that time the maintenance is done.

SL. NO.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
SL.NO
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7. ~
8.
9.
10.

Items need to be checked & Serviced


Check and tightening all motor terminals.
Check and clean pressure sensor and tightening
terminals
Clean the ventilation fans of panel board and
circular fan on top machine.
Check and clean the interfacing and data cables.
Check and tightening the proximity switch
terminals.
Inspection, cleaning and tightening all the
terminals in the panel.
Check and tightening limit switch, safety door
guard and emergency switch.
Functional test of the yarn detector.

items need to be checked & Serviced


Check and tightening all motor terminals and clean the
motor (3odays).
Check activity of wide and sensor and pneumatic
regulator.
Check and clean pressure sensor and tightening terminals
Clean the A/C ventilation fans of panel board
Check the fan and the heat sink o the inverters in the
panel board.
Check and tightening the edge sensors.
Check and tightening the photo sensor terminals.
Check and tightening the safety light barrier and
tightening terminals.
Inspection, cleaning and tightening all the terminals in
the panel.
Check and tightening limit switch, safety door guard and
emergency switch.

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Check List of Different Parts


Maintenance : Mechanical
Machine : Dyeing machine
SL.
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
ii
12

Items need to be checked & Serviced


Clean the m/c bearing.
Complete cleaning of machine
Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required.
Check air supply filters, regulators auto drain seals
Clean filters element and blow out.
Greasing of unloading roller bearing.
Checking of oil level and bolts of unloading roller
gearbox.,
Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing.
Checking & cleaning (if required) of main vessel level
indicator.
Check the oil level of pump bearing and refill if
required.
Check the function of heat and cool modulating
valves
Check all door seals.

Maintenance : Electrical
Machine : Dyeing Machine
SL No.

Items need to be checked & Serviced

1.

Check & clean fluff and dirt at dirt at all motor fan covers.

2.
3.
4.

Check all motors terminals


Check main panels (by using compressed air)
Check panel cooling fan & clean its filter

5.
6.

Clean main pump inverter and its cooling fan.


Check all circuit breaker, magnetic conductors and relays.
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7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.

Check current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over load.

17.

Check all signal isolators.

Visual checking of all power & control cables.


Check calibration of main vessel & all addition tank
Check all pneumatic solenoids
Check calibration of heating/cooling modulating value
Check setting of tangle sensor.
Check setting & operation of lid safely switches.
Check all emergency switches
Check all indicating lamps
Check all on/off switches

Maintenance Tools & Equipments:


1. Combination tools / spanner
Function: Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts.
2. Socket ratchet set
Function: Tightening of nuts & bolts.
3. Slide range
Function: Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts.
4. Monkey pliers
Function: Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts. 5. Pipe
threat cutting tools
Function: To cut the threat in pipe.
6. Bearing puller
Function: To assist the opening of bearing from shaft. 7. Pipe
range
Function: Tightening & loosening of pipe joint.
8. Pipe cutting tools
Function: For pipe cutting.
9. Hole punch
Function: Punching the hole.
10. Divider
Function: For circle marking on metal & wood.
11. Easy opener
Function: To open the broken head bolt.
12. External threat die
Function: For external threat cutting.
13. Heavy scissor
Function: Cutting of gasket & steel sheet.
14. Oil can
Function: Oiling of moving parts.
15. Drill machine and drill bit.
Function: For drilling.
16. Grease gun
Function: For greasing of moving parts of rn/c.
17. Grinding m/c
Function: For grinding & cutting of mild steel.
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18. Welding m/c


Function: For welding & cutting.
19. Spirit leveler
Function: For perfect leveling.
20. File
Function: For smoothing the surface.
21. Hammer
Function: For scaling & right angling.
22. Circlip tools
Function: Circlip opening & closing.
23. Hacksaw blade
Function: For metal cutting.

Maintenance Procedure:
Preventive

Maintenance:

They

always

follow

preventive

maintenance.

Breakdown Maintenance: When a problem occurred the operator


informed the supervisor, then the supervisor informed the production
officer, then the production officer called the maintenance officer. The
maintenance officer visits the problem and takes necessary steps to solve
the problem.

Flow chart of maintenance


Problem occurred
Operator
Supervisor
Production officer

Maintenance officer

Solution

Remarks:
Maintenance of m/cs are very essential to prolong the m/c life and good
maintenance is important consideration. It is necessary to check that all
routine maintenance is being done regularly and properly otherwise
efficiency of each department will be reduced.

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UTILITY SERVICES
Introduction:
VIYELLATEX GROUP LTD. is a big project and so of course having a vast project of
utility service. Here the total account of utility facilities are available. The utilities are
Water
Gas
Electricity
Compressed Air
Steam

Generator house
The list of machine:
1. Generator
2. Panel
3. Distribution Board
4. Generator Control Panel

Number of Generator= Four


Capacity= 4.25MW
Manufacturer= Jenbacher (AUSTRIA)
1. Generator:
To generate the power (volts & amps) for every section in the
Factory.

2. Panel:
To store the power (volts & amps) from the generator for every
section in the factory.

There are two types of panel:


PFI (Power Factor Improvement) panel
LT panel

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PFI panel:
To store the power (volts & amps) from the generator for the boiler house, finishing
section & dyeing section in the factory. Supply AC current. 4 Amps & 400 volts

LT panel:

To store the power (volts & amps) from the generator for the boiler
house, finishing section & dyeing section in the factory. According there
need. Supply AC current. 4 Amps & 400 volts.

3. Distribution:
To supply the power (volts & amps) for the light, AC, fan etc in the different section.
Supply AC current. 4 Amps & 400 volts.
4. Generator control panel: To control the generator for generate power.

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BOILER
Boiler:
The equipment used for producing steam from water is called
steam generator or boiler. The boiler used for producing steam in GKL is
Cochran boiler which is a fire tube type boiler. This produced steam is
supplied by the steam line in different section. Simple vertical boiler of fire
tube type is mainly used in small plant requiring small quantity of steam
and where floor area is limited.

Classification of boilers:
1) Fire tube boiler( gas ) : Low pressure , low running cost , less
chance of busting but greater risk of damage .
2) Water tube boiler: High pressure, high running cost high chance of
bursting & dont damage the whole boiler.
As this factory used fire tube boilers and its description is given below.
In boiler house, steam is produced at high temperature and pressure. This produced steam is
supplied by the steam line in different section.

Uses: Steam use for

Power generation ( steam engine / turbine ) .


Processing in industries (dyeing & finishing mill, sugar mill, paper mill etc.).
Heating purposes ( houses , offices , hospitals etc in cold countries ).
Hot water supply.

Essentials of a good boiler


Required pressure and quality at minimum fuel .
Initial installation and maintenance cost low .
Parts approachable for repairs .
Quick starting capacity .
Conform to the safely regulations of boiler act .

Working principle:
The gas is fed through the front side to the furnace where fire created by
electric spark. The blower move the fire into the flue pipe by compress air
and then the flue gases enter through the combustion chamber which is
lined with fire bricks on the outer wall of boiler. The hot gases passing
through the horizontal smoke tubes give their heat to the water and
convert water into steam. This steam gets accumulated in the upper
portion of shell from where it can be supplied to the users. Finally, the flue
gases are discharged to the atmosphere through the smoke box and
chimney.

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Feed water tank

Gas

Burner

Boiler

Blower

Steam

Factory house

Figure: Steam produces procedure mechanism

The list of machineries:

Three Boilers
Boiler water softener plant
De-alkalize
Four Condensed pump
One hot water tank
One water feed tank.

Capacity= 17ton

Boiler Specification
Boiler No
Machine Name (Functional)
Boiler Type
Brand Name
Model Name
Max. Steam Output
Test Pressure
Volume
Year of Manufacture
Country Name

01
Steam Generate
:
Fire Tube Boiler
:
OMNICAL BOILER
:
20424
:
6 t /h
:
20.5 bar
:
12540 L
:
2008
:
Germany.
:

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Boiler No
Machine Name (Functional)
Brand Name
Model Name
Max. Working Pressure
Minn. Steam Temp.
Max. Steam Temp.
Test Pressure
Volume
Year of Manufacture
Manufacturer's Name
Boiler No
Machine Name (Functional)
Boiler Type
Brand Name
Model Name
Max. Steam Output
Test Pressure
Volume
Year of Manufacture
Country Name

:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:

02
Steam Generate
:
SCHNEIDER-KESSEL BERLIN
:
HDD-P5000-10
10 bar
20C
185C
13.5 bar
5200 L
2006
German Thai Boiler Manufacturing Ltd.

03
Steam Generate
:
Fire Tube Boiler
:
OMNICAL BOILER
:
20424
:
6 t /h
:
20.5 bar
:
12540 L
:
2008
:
Germany.
:

COMPRESSED AIR
Compressed air is produced by air compressor.
There are four air compressors for producing compressed air.
Manufacturer= GERMANY(KAESAR)

STEAM
Steam is produce by Boiler.
From the Water Treatment Plant, water is stored in a reserve tank and from
there water goes
to boiler & steam is produced.

GAS
The source of Gas is TITAS GAS LTD.
The gas is supplied to gas generator or different section (Boiler- for heating
water) from the main line of the TITAS GAS LTD.

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Sources of Electricity:
Electricity
Steam
Water
Compressed air
Gas

: PDB & Generator


: Boiler
: Pump
: Compressor
: TITAS GAS LTD.

Remarks:
As the biggest project the VIYELLATEX GROUP., so the vast utility
systems. There is a skill manpower group of engineers and other technical
staffs to look after these utility services. They have to remain aware of
solution on a great sense of responsibility for any type of problem due to
utility supply.

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WATER TREATMENT PLANT


There are two deep tubeweel by the two side of the treatment plant.
There are also two submersible pumps in the deep tubeweel one is 100 ft
deep and another is 140 ft deep. The submersible pump transfer raw
water in the water tank by creates force. The formation of oxidation of the
water by showering with the help of another two pimps in the water tank.
Iron content removes by the oxidation.
Two circular transfer raw water in the (vessel no-1) Multigrade filter
unit. The large size plastic, iron that means solid content are removed in
the multigrade filter unit. The water is transferred to the (vessel No-2)
Activated carbon filter unit. In the (vessel No-2) Activated carbon unit to
remove chlorine that means bad smell. The water then transfer in to the
(vessel No-3) softener unit from the activated carbon unit at the presence
of cationic resin (Zeolite) is reacted with water to remove the hardness of
water.
The water is transferred in to the reserve tank from the softener
unit. The soft water is supplied from the reserve tank by the 7 Boosting
pump in the different section of the factory.

The back wash & regeneration process

The back wash process to clean the vessel no-1,2 & 3. The back
wash process should be done after 8-12hrs. After 40-48 hrs later the
regeneration process should be done. It should be done after back wash
process. After back wash the common salt dissolved with water in to the
STT (salt saturated tank) the solution of common salt is ringing the resin
by the injector. The use of 18% salt in the total solution. (Suppose, 5000 lit
of solution the amount of salt 600kg). The resin is activated by the salt
rising. Here used cationic resin (NaHSO 3). If the PH of the water increase or
decrease it should be control by the dosing chemical (Sodium
Hypochlorite) from the chemical tank.
A

Figure: Water treatment plant


Where,
A=Hard water storage tank
B=Stone filter
C=Carbon filter
D=Resin filter
E=Soft water storage tank
F= Pump

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Standard water quality for dye house


Minimum
standard

Permissible concentration

Color
Smell
Water hardness
PH Value
Dissolved solid
Inorganic salt
Iron (Fe)
Manganese (Mn)
Copper (Cu)
Nitrate (NO3)
Nitrite (No2)
Chlorine
Filterable solids
ammonia

Colorless
No bad smell
< 50
7-8 Neutral
< 150 mg/1
< 500 mg/1
< 0.1 mg/1
< 0.01 mg/1
< 0.005 mg/1
< 50 mg/1
< 5 mg/1
<0.i mg/1
< 50 mg/1
< 0.5 mg/1

Hardness check
The hardness should be checked after every 6 hrs. It should be
checked by the hardness test kits. The using hardness test kits are Hanna
Instrument. Made in Italy. If the hardness is going to be 0.5 on the syringe
scale. Then have to do the regeneration process.

The capacity of WTP= 200m3/ hr

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EFFLUENT TREATMENT
PLANT
Flow chart of ETP:
Effluent
Water from
Dyeing

Equalizer
Tank

Reaction
Tank

PH
Control
Tank

Flocculation
Tank

Prmary
clarifier

Sludge
bed

Discharg
e
Effluent
Multifilter

Chlorintion
Tank

Secondary
clarifier

Aeration
Tank

Reserve tank
For Re-using
Water

Effluent treatment plant (ETP)


Process:

i. Chemical
ii. Biological.

In Viyellatex Biological process is used


Capacity: 100 m3 / hour.

The major sources of liquid discharge are:

scouring.
Bleaching.
Dyeing.
Washing.

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Dye wastes content:


-

Carbon, nitrogen, phosphorus.

Bleaching:
-

Dilute hypochlorite solution.


H2O2

Raw materials:
1. main raw material:
Cotton yarn.
mixed yarn
Dyes
Chemical

2. dye include:
Reactive.
Disperse.

3. Chemical includes:

Detergent
Soda ash
Caustic soda.
H2O2
Stabilizer.
Acetic acid.

Step wise function of different unit of E.T.P

Equalizer Tank:
Air circulation is occurred in this tank to reduce the temperature of the
water.

Reaction Tank:

Use chemical: Soda Lime.


Function: To remove the various color.

PH Control Tank:

Use chemical: FeSo4, Fitcary.


Function: To control PH.(6.0-6.5).

Flocculation Tank

Use chemical: Polyelectrolyte & alum.


Function: To produce flock.

Primary Clarifier:
Function: To monitor performance of flocculation clarifier & separate solid waste.
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Sludge Bed:
Function: Solid waste dried & send to outside for burial

Aeration Tank:
Use chemical: Urea, Phosphoric acid.
Function: Bio logical oxygen demand & Chemical oxygen demand reduced here &
diffused aeration system ensures high oxidation efficiency.

Secondary Clarifier:
Function: Remaining solid waste separate here. Reduced total solid.

Chlorination Tank:
Used chemical: Sodium hypochloride
Function: Disinfection done here.

Multi filter:
Function: Extra suspended impurities separation by passing into the sand.
Here removed suspended solution and correction the water color.

The characteristics of waste water assumed at


VIYELLATEX as follows:

pH = 11
BOD = 300 mg/L
COD=200 mg/L
Suspended solid (SS) = 200 mg/L
Color = dark

Final treated Quality of VIYLLATEX discharge is

PH = 6-9
BOD = 35 mg/ L
COD = 170 mg / L
Suspended solid = 50 mg/L
Color = color less.

BSTIS standard:

Ph = 6-9
BOD = 50 mg/L
COD= 200 mg/L
Suspended solid = 150 mg/L
Color = Light brownish.

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CONCLUSION :
We have completed our industrial attachment successfully by the grace of Allah.
Industrial attachment sends us to the expected destiny of
practical life. The completion of the two months Industrial attachment at
VIYELLATEX GROUP, we have got the impression that factory is one of
the most modern export oriented knit composite complex in Bangladesh.
Though it was established only a few years ago, it has earned very
good reputations for its best performance over many other export
oriented textile mills.
During our training period, talking with the clients of this mill we
knew that the mill is fulfilling the countrys best export oriented white
finished fabric as well as very good colored fabric due to its modern
machinery & good management system.
Mill is settled with utility to give all convenient supports to the
productions for twenty-four hours. It had self-power generator system to
satisfy total power consumptions of the mill.
We are enough fortunate that we have got an opportunity of
having a training in this mill. During the training period we are received
co-operation and association from the authority full & found all man,
machines & materials on appreciable working condition. .\ll stuffs &
officers were very sincere & devoted their duties to achieve their goal.
There
knowledge

are some suggestions

from

us within

our limited

Some Suggestions:
The dyeing floor is watery most of the time: it should be cleaned all
the time.
To increase overall efficiency, more skilled labor should be used in a
project.
The m/c stoppage time should be analyzed and minimized.
The maintenance should be carried out when the m/c is out of action
(wherever possible) and routine maintenance should be carried out
regularly.
There should be a yarn dyeing project.
Sitting arrangement of production officers should be improved.

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Lastly:
We tried our best to gather all necessary information but it is true that
within this short period it is quite impossible to achieve 100% success but
as a whole this industrial training was a satisfactory one and once again
wed would like to thank the authority of VIYELLATEX GROUP. as well as
our honorable teachers far their altruistic help and advice. We are
fortunate enough that we have got an opportunity to have training in this
mill. During the training period we have received enough co-operation and
association from the authority and found all personnel. All stuffs and
officers were very sincere and devoted their duties to achieve their goal.

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