Weaving Norm 1.

0 YARN CHARACTERISTICS FOR SHUTTLELESS WEAVING Parameters CV% for Count Warp and Weft CSP Single Thread Tenacity CV% for Single Thread Tenacity Elongation at Break(%) CV% for elongation at break Elongation at Break(%) CV% for elongation at break CV% for TPI Uster Evenness% The yarn hairs having length more than 3mm Yarn imperfection/1000m Up to 40s Upto 1.2 3200(3000) 20g/tex Less than 7 Above 5.5 Less than 7 Above 5.5 Less than 7 Less than 5 Less than 10% 3 per Metre Less than 50 Above 40s Upto 1.4 3000(3200) 20g/tex Less than 7 Above 6 Less than 7 Above 6 Less than 7 Less than 5 Less than 11 3 per Metre Less than 70

Above 100 ends/inch quality and loom running at the speed of above 500 ppm, the mill should go for 5% Uster norm for yarn. Ring yarn elongation at breaks properties to be retained in subsequent weaving preparatory processes.

2.0

WINDING 2.1 YARN BREAKAGE Type of Machine Autoconer Yarn Breaks per 1,00,000 metres Good Average Poor 20 30 40

These breakage consist of A4+B4+C4+D4+C3+D3 and highly objectionable classimat faults. 2.2 CAUSEWISE BREAK-UP OF END BREAKS IN WINDING Type of yarn Fault Embedded Fluff Loose lint Slubs Singling and weak places Piece-ups Foreign matter/kitties Other yarn faults Total % of Total Breaks 15 15 10 25 10 10 15 100

2.3 CLEARING EFFICIENCY(%)ON WINDING MACHINE Type of Machine Autoconer Clearing Efficiency (%) Average 90

Good 95

Poor 85

2.4

YARN CLEARING SETTING (ELECTRONICS YARN CLEARER) Count Yarn Clearer Setting Upto 40s Above 40s

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Weaving Norm (Electronic yarn Clearer) N DS LS DL LL -D -L C 7 2.2 2.0 1.3 25 20 to 25 40 to 60 1.4 7 2.6 1.6 1.4 25 25 60 to 90 1.4

The clearer setting decides the clearing efficiency. The clearer is intended to remove A4+B4+C4+D4+C3+D3 and highly objectionable classimat faults. 2.5 WINDING SPEED Type of Machine Auto coner Winding speed m/min Upto 40s Above 40s 1100 to 1300 900 to 1100

For yarns meant for high reed (above 100 ends/inch)sorts, the winding speed is about 10%lower than above figures but in any case not less than 900 mpm 2.6 WINDING MACHINE EFFICIENCY Type of Machine Autoconer Machine Efficiency (%) Average 85

Good 90

Poor 80

2.7

LOSS IN STRENGTH AND ELONGATION When the yarn from wound package is tested, the loss in strength and elongation at break should not exceed 5% of that the ring yarn.

2.8

SPLICE FAILURE Machine Type Autoconer* Yarn Count Upto 40s Above 40s Good 3 5 Splice Failure % Average Poor 7 15 10 18

The norms hold good for a minimum suction pressure level given by the machine manufacturer. 2.9 SPLICE QUALITY Splice dimension: 1.2 to 1.4 times the parent yarn diameter SAG-Splice appearance grade (ATIRA) : Length of Splice Retain splice strength Splice Breaking Ratio 2.10 : : : 3 3 to 3.5cm Above 85% Maximum 20%

TENSION ON YARN DURING WINDING

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Weaving Norm

Tension on the yarn during winding corresponding single yarn strength. 2.11Wound yarn Package Variation : 0.2

should

be

about

10%

of

2.12 Wound yarn package weight variation should be 0.5 to 1% of normal weight. 2.13 WINDING MAINTENANCE COST Machine Type Autoconer 3. WARPING 3.1 DIRECT WARPING 3.1.1 MACHINE SPEED Machine Type Super High Speed i.e. Hacoba or Benninger Warping Machine Machine Speed For counts upto 40s-Warping speed should not be less than 25% of maximum speed recommended by machine manufacturer. For counts above 40s Warping speed should be 10% less the speed maintained for upto 40s count yarn For coloured yarn-It should be 5% less than that of corresponding grey yarn Maintenance Cost (Rs./Spindle/Shift) 3.0

3.1.2 WARPING BREAKAGE Machine Type Super High Warping Machine 3.2 Warping Stops/400ends/1000m Good Average Poor 0.2 0.5 0.7

Speed

SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE 3.2.1 MACHINE SPEED Machine Type Super High Speed Sectional Warping Machine 3.2.2 WARPING BREAKAGE Machine Type High Speed Sectional Warping Stops/400ends/1000m Good Average Poor 0.4 0.8 1.0 Machine Speed (mpm) 400

Super

Warping Machine 3.3

CONTRIBUTION OF SPINNING AND WINDING FAULTS

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Weaving Norm Machine Type Super High Speed Warping Machine 3.4 % Distribution of Spinning Faults Winding Faults 65 35

CAUSEWISE BREAK-UP OF END BREAKS IN WARPING Type of causes Related to Spinning Thin end/soft end Slub/bad piecing Foreign fibre Others Sub Total Related to Weaving Splice Package faults Bunches Wild yarn, fluffs Other Sub total TENSION ON YARN DURING WARPING % of total breaks 45 5 3 12 65 5 15 5 5 5 35

3.5

Tension on yarn during warping should be about 5% to that of corresponding single thread strength of the yarn. 3.6 EFFICIENCY OF WARPING MACHINE Machine Type Super High Speed Warping Machine Super High Speed Sectional Warping Machine For coloured pattern set 3.7 WARPING KNOT The warping knot tail should have length of 5 to 6 mm. 3.8 WARPING MAINTENANCE COST Machine Type Super High Speed Warping Machine 4. SIZING 4.1 4.2 MECHANICAL STRETCH:1.0% OPTIMUM YARN TENSION DURING SIZING % of Single Thread Breaking Strength of Ring Yarn At Creel Between At Head Stock Finishing Squeeze Roll to First Drying Maintenance Cost (Rs/machine/Shift) 50.00 Efficiency (%) 60-65 45-50 30-35

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Weaving Norm Cylinder 4-5

Norms tension 4.3 4.4

for

yarn

2-3

10-15

SIZED YARN RESIDUAL ELONGATION : 4.5% NORMS FOR GAIN IN STRENGTH AND LOSS IN ELONGATION AT BREAK OF SIZED YARN Type of Yarn Gain in Strength Loss in Elongation Upto 40s >25 <15 Above 40s 15-25 <15 Polyester Blended Yarn 5 15 <15 Based on the single thread breaking strength and elongation at break of ring yarn.

4.5

DEAD LOSS PERCENTAGE Good Average Poor 15 25 35 Dead loss % is calculated on the basis of material issued from stores. Norms for (%) dead loss

4.6

VARIATION IN SIZDE PICK-UP Norms for size pick-up variation Deviation from nominal pick-up % Good 1 Average 2 Poor 3

4.7

VARIATION IN SIZE PICK-UP IN PAIR OF BEAMS ON LOOM Norms for size pick-up variation between pair of beams on loom 1.5%

4.8

DROPPING Norms for size dropping: 0.10% of the size pick up (by weight basis)

4.9

MIGRATION OF ENDS(For cylinder sizing) No.of ends/1000 ends/1000m Good Average Poor Upto 40s 1 3 5 Above 40s 3 7 10 For coloured yarns, these values will have to be increased by 15% Count of yarn

4.10

LAPPERS Lappers/1000 ends/1000m Good Average Poor 0.2 0.4 0.8

Norms for incidences of lappers in sizing 4.11 SIZING MAINTENANCE COST

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Weaving Norm

Machine Type Sucker Muller, Jupiter Benninger 5. DRAWING IN PRODUCTION 5.1 5.2 6.

Maintenance Cost (Rs./Machine/Shift) 150.00

Drawing in production/pair of persons/8 hrs.:5500 ends Knotter productivity : 13000 ends/operative

LOOMSHED : Shuttleless Loom 6.1 LOOM SPEED Count of Yarn Upto 40s Loom Speed Weft insertion rate (metres per minute) should be 10 to 15% less than that of recommended by loom manufacturers for that loom model. Weft insertion rate (metres per minute)should be 5 to 10% less than the speed maintained for upto 40s yarn Weft insertion rate (metres per minute)should be 5 to 10% less than that of corresponding grey yarn

Above 40s For coloured yarn

6.2

WARP AND WEFT STOPS PER HOUR Upto 40s Ne Warp Weft stops/ Stops/ hr. hr. 1.5 0.40 1.0 1.1 1.8 1.6 0.8 1.4 2.5 0.50 0.50 0.45 1.5 1.3 1.3 1.3 Above 40s Ne Warp Weft stops / stops/ hr. hr. 1.9 0.5 1.3 1.4 2.3 2.0 1.0 1.8 3.1 0.7 0.7 0.6 1.6 1.4 1.4 1.4

Loom Type

Sorts Twill Denim Plain Poplin Twill

AIRJET LOOM

PROJECTILE LOOM

Denim Plain Poplin

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Weaving Norm Twill RAPIER LOOM Denim Plain Poplin 1.2 1.1 0.7 1.4 0.70 0.75 0.75 0.70 1.5 1.4 0.9 1.80 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9

6.3

CAUSEWISE SNAP EFFICIENCY LOSSES % Causes Warp & Weft + Interference of Warp & Weft Repair Beams Gaiting/knotting Lubrication & Cleaning Other Total % Loss in Efficiency 7.5 1.0 2.5 0.5 0.5 12.0

6.4

DROPPINGS Norms for Loom Droppings = 0.30% of the size yarn weight.

6.5

TIMING FOR WEAVER ATTENDING FAULTS Time in Min. 1.00 0.18

Attending warp stop Attending weft stop 6.6 YARN TENSION DURING WEAVING

Tension on yarn during weaving should not exceed 30% of single thread strength of ring yarn. 6.7 GAITING TIMING Beam knotting Timing . . . . . . .. 12 min/1000 ends Beam Gaiting without Sort Change: Single Width Loom . . . . . . . . . 1-3 hrs depending upon the sorts Double Width Loom. . . . . . . . . 3-8 hrs depending upon the sorts

Beam Gaiting with Sort Change: Single Width Loom . . . . . . . . . 1 shift

Double Width Rapier Loom . . . 2 shift

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Weaving Norm - Sulzer Loom . . . 2 shift

6.8

MANPOWER IN SHUTTLELESS WEAVING SHED Weavers Assignment Helper Reliever Material Handler (Weft Carrier) Fitter / Maintenance & Cloth 8-16 looms depending upon sort particulars and loom width. 1 helper for 3 weavers 1 upto 48 looms 2 persons to 48 looms 23 to 32

Expected operatives per 100 loom shifts 6.9 HARD WASTE LEVEL SIZING Set change waste per set Lapper Bad beams/soft beams LOOMS For leno & false selvedge on loom False selvedge Total Hard Waste in Weaving 6.10 LOOM MAINTENANCE COST Loom Type Projectile Rapier Air-jet *depending upon machine model 6.11 WEAVING EFFICIENCY Sort Cotton Bottom Wear Cotton Shirting Coloured & Super Fine Sorts 6.12 GREY FABRIC DEFECTS System 4 Points system 6.13 WEFT PACKAGES

45-50m sized yarn +25m Grey yarn 0.04 to 0.06% of sizing production 0.02% of sizing production 20mm to 80mm per pick 40 to 20 ends in false selvedge 1.8%

Maintenance Cost (Rs./loom/shift*) 35 65 50 90 50 100

Minimum Weaving Efficiency % 92 85 82 to 85

Acceptable level 20 points/100 sq.m.fabrics

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Weaving Norm Steamed weft packages are found to give better performance alongwith reduction in incidences of broken pick especially on air jet looms. IDEAL STEAMING CONDITION Type of Chamber Temperature (C) : Vacuum Steam Chamber : 90 to 100

Steam Pressure (kg/cm2): 0.5 Time (Min.) : 20

The number of cycles depends on yarn count, TPI and package size. In general two to three cycles are sufficient. The steam packages should be kept under covering. The conditioned packages should be consumed within 4 hours. 6.14 AIR CONSUMPTION ON AIRJET MACHINE Loom Width Air Consumption in Cubic feet/8 hrs.* 190 cm to 220 cm 12000 - 15000 * Depending upon the machine model and speed

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