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SMITHING Here are a few basics to get you started. Smithing is one of those things you learn with practise, where some basic rules apply, but the specifics change with every vessel you make.

Regular, careful annealing is the main key to success. Make sure you heat the whole surface of the metal to an even temperature. Dont be tempted to heat a little hotter than you know you should to try to make the metal softer it will only make the grain of the metal raise and become brittle. Particularly when making a large item, it is well worthwhile coating the entire surface with Argotec mixed with either water or Meths. Meths is said to be more effective, but please be aware of the fumes as they burn off. If you are working at home and cant get access to Argotec, then simply coat the entire surface in flux when it becomes glass-like you have reached annealing temperature. Just a hint: If I am forging a large item I fill a plant spray with liquid flux (make sure you use one suitable for both silver and gold as those that are designed for use specifically with gold will burn off at a higher temperature). Simply spray the surface with the flux and it will save you a lot of time. However, I still maintain that Borax ground down with water is the best flux for silver as it seems to give a better result.

Hammer blows should be even in force and as accurate as possible this comes with practise. Sinking In Silversmithing terms, SINKING means: Pounding sheet metal into a hemispherical die.

Imogen Waitt (November 2007)

Even if you intend to eventually RAISE the vessel, I find it easiest to SINK the vessel first, then raise it over a stake once you have established a basic shape. It is easier to hold the silver down onto a sandbag or doming space, than it is to securely grip a completely flat piece of silver over a polished metal stake. Always take care of your forging tools. They are an investment that should last a lifetime. If you are not going to use them for a while, apply a little Vaseline and wrap them in a cloth. They must be kept in a dry environment. Take care of your neck, back, shoulders, arms, wrists and hands by stopping regularly. Shake out your arms and wrists and role your shoulders back carefully. Use a compass to cut out a circle. File the edges smooth to protect your fingers. Anneal, quench, pickle and dry carefully to protect your tools. Mark the centre with a dot of felt tip pen or a very slight scratch. Then mark out circles at intervals (may need them closer together if it is a very small bowl shape.)

Imogen Waitt (November 2007)

The same principle applies for oval shapes, thus:

Place the disc at about 45 to the sandbag, doming block or anvil (if you are Stretching). Using regular even hammer blows, begin to forge the first circle. Once you have completed this layer, move onto the second layer, then the third etc. until you have reached the centre. This is known as completing one Pass.

Imogen Waitt (November 2007)

Unless you wish the hammered effect of sinking to be a feature of the final piece, it is wise to use a wooden, rubber or rawhide mallet. It takes a little longer, but leaves a smoother surface.

Egg shaped mallet (wood or rubber)

Rawhide mallet

If you are creating a flat bottomed shape, then stop at the point the base is to begin.

Imogen Waitt (November 2007)

5 Be careful as the outer metal has to travel further and it is easy to end up with this sort of shape:

Whilst this is an attractive shape in its own right, we dont want all our vessels to end up like soup bowls! If you notice that the vessel is adopting this sort of shape, simply move your hammer blows up a course or two, then go back.

Raising In Silversmithing terms, RAISING is the process of compressing metal down on a stake without stretching it. When we raise a bowl we begin from the centre (or first circle next to the flat base). Again angle the vessel over the stake and move in a circular movement around the vessel.

Imogen Waitt (November 2007)

Various stakes are available, ranging from Spoon, Mushroom, to cows tongue. They are quite expensive to buy and need to be cared for carefully to get the best from them. Dont hit a hard metal hammer against them, be careful to hit the actual silver you are trying to forge. Wooden stakes are considerable cheaper and quieter to work with, but dont take as much wear and tear as the metal ones.

Stretching (AKA Blocking, Embossing or Bossing All the above terms refer to causing sheet metal to dome by forging (stretching against a flat anvil). Tension is created between expanded (stretched) and unhammered areas. Thus the metal is pulled up. Control over the shape is achieved by the shape of your hammer, the strength of your blows and angle you hold the metal against the anvil. The advantages are that: it requires basic tools (no expensive polished stakes) You are not thinning the metal so you get a good thick rim The size of the finished circumference is the same as that of the starting disc (important if you want to make a lid to fit a bowl). The disadvantages are: Really only suitable for shallow forms. Everything has to be done from the inside, so you are restricted by the reach of the hammer. Best depth of sheet metal to use would be between 2mm 4mm thick.

Imogen Waitt (November 2007)

Again with Stretching you should start from the centre and work out. A smaller radius hammer will pull bowl up sharper, but will leave rounded dents.

Stretching hammer

Raising a fluted Bowl, or creating a lip for a jug etc.

Make initial markings as above. Imogen Waitt (November 2007)

8 Then mark as below:

Imogen Waitt (November 2007)