MOKUM GANE

Mokum gane is an ancient art of forging metals that has its origins in 17th century Japan. A Japanese artisan named Denbei Shoami developed Mokum gane, and called the process "guri" after a type of woodworking popular in the region called guri-buri, where layers of red and black woods would be glued together, then carved through to show variations in coloring that allowed for unique designs. To achieve the same layering, Shoami layered copper, gold, and silver into billets, then fired them in a kiln until the metals fused. He then carved through the layers to develop patterns. Many of the pieces were used to adorn swords, and were highly prized for their beauty. The term " Mokum gane" was originally one specific pattern, and translates as "wood-eye (burl) grain." It is characterized by circular waves. When the art of Mokum gane was introduced to the United States in the 1970's, variations in nomenclature used in Japan were reduced and the term " Mokum gane" became the general name for the art. (Nomenclature is a term that applies to either a list of names and/or terms, or to the system of principles, procedures and terms). Pattern will vary from piece to piece, just as carvings from wood have different patterns, depending on the way in which it was carved and how the layers contrast.

PROCESS FOR BILLET: The first part of the process is to create the Billet. This is simply a stack of different coloured metal sheets, soldered together using the stick feed principle.

1. Create x amount of sheets of metal of exactly the same size and thickness. Dont be too ambitious with size! 2. Abrade the surface of the metals with 600 emery paper to help the solder run.

3. Chamfer all edges. 4. Scrub with Pumice or similar to clean 5. Apply flux to all surfaces. 6. Create stack. 7. Put into vice as tight as possible and wrap with binding wire.

8. Use high-powered torch (if possible) and stick feed HARD solder into joints. 9. Allow to cool, scrub with pumice past DO NOT PICKLE. 10. Run through rolling mill to reduce thickness by half. If you do not have access to the mill use a mallet. 11. Cut in half and sandwich together as above. 12. Recreate chamfered edges where necessary. 13. Repeat process until a good few layers have been built up. Important points to remember: Always run the Billet through the rolling mill in the same direction (make a small permanent mark with a saw blade before you begin.) Health & Safety: You are working at high temperatures with liquid solder. Wear appropriate protection. Ensure no hot solder can drop onto your lap. Your hair MUST be tied back. Problems that can occur: Immature weld (i.e. solder not properly run in centre). Overheating ending up with an homogeneous mess with no clear definition between metals. THAT IS THE HARD PART OVER PHEW! Either:

A. Use an aggressive bur to cut holes part-way through the metal sheet. Allow the bur to dance over the surface to join the holes to create a wood grain effect. Trapping sheet in a vice is helpful. Or, B. Use a doming punch to create depressions in the metal sheet. Turn it over and file away the top of the reverse of these depressions to reveal different coloured metal. Then, anneal very carefully and pass carefully through the mill to flatten out the metal. Reduce the roller height very gradually. Or use a hammer to flatten out the sheet of metal.

1. Please remember that the sheet Mokum gane has been subjected to a lot! Treat it with care when soldering and forming. If in doubt use rivets instead.