1 Noble metals and Titanium Metals are measured in terms of: Tenacity (resistance to fracture under tension).

). Ductibility (pulled, or drawn out without fracture) 1gm of gold can be drawn out until it is 2 miles long. Malleability (spread under impact without fracture) gold can be spread out until it is only four millionth of an inch thick.

Precious metals are bought from a bullion merchants, mostly in Hatton Garden, London, Sheffield or Birmingham. Precious metal in its pure form is very vulnerable and too soft to be worked into something that will successfully hold its shape when worn. Therefore other metals are added to make it more useful.

Silver Has copper added until the silver content is 92.5% pure. We call this Sterling silver, after Sterling in Germany where silversmiths invented the process. Britannia silver contains 95.84% silver and is much softer. This is only really used to make bezels (the bit that holds the stones in place). Due to its high silver content it is not usually necessary to anneal when working. The addition of copper to the silver can cause problems. When the metal is heated to soften it for working (annealing) the copper can come to the surface and leave unsightly purple blemishes that we call firestain. A professional silversmith will laboriously remove this by hand, using fine grades of Emery Paper or a Water of Ayre stone or continuously heating the piece and then throwing it into diluted sulphuric acid heated to just below boiling point. Commercially produced and mass produced jewellery is often plated either with Silver, or Rhodium to cover the firestain. This can chip or peel off in time which really detracts from the aesthetic look of the piece.

Imogen Waitt

May, 2010

Gold Gold has Copper, Silver, or Zinc added to toughen it up. Gold is assessed by the assay office using an ancient system called Carat. For example 18 Carat gold has 18 parts of gold and 6 parts of other metals added to round it up to 24carrat that would be present in pure gold. Most common are 9ct, 14ct and 18ct. Obviously the colour of the metal is affected both by which other metal is added and the amount of it. 18ct gold has quite a different colour to 9ct. If silver is added to gold it gives it a greenish tinge. If copper is added to the gold it gives it a reddish colour. Platinum is the strongest of the precious metals. It is very dense in structure and has a very high melting point. A specialist version of an oxyacetylene rig is needed when working with this metal. To have an item hallmarked it must be sent to one of the British Assay Offices. Each metal smith must apply to hold a makers mark that is applied to the piece of jewellery by the Assay Office, along with the purity stamp (giving the amount of silver/gold/platinum for the item), and the mark for that particular Assay Office. Often a date stamp and convention stamp is applied. The makers mark is unique to each metal smith and helps work be identified in the future. Most large cities in the UK had their own Assay Office, but now we only have: London: Leopard head Sheffield: The Rose Birmingham: Anchor Edinburgh: Castle The system of Assaying was started by Edward I in 1300 to protect public from fraud. The Assay Office scrape a small amount of the metal away and test it using acids to establish the level of purity. Hence the term the acid test. If any one item is found to be substandard, then the whole of the bundle is destroyed (either with a hammer or by heat) and returned to the maker. The European community is trying to stop the process (as they feel it is unfair to the rest of Europe). British jewellers and metal smiths are

Imogen Waitt

May, 2010

3 very much against this. If you are interested in this subject look at: www.925-1000.com Titanium. This cannot be soldered, so gives jewellers both a headache, but also the opportunity to think outside the box. Joints have to be made by series of tiny rivets. If this metal is heated, beautiful colours can be achieved as the first 0.5mm of the metal oxidises.

Imogen Waitt

May, 2010