Service & Technik

Information for the sewing industry

Determining your
sewing thread
requirements

Determining thread demand

Determining the thread demand is very important and
should not be roughly estimated. The better you calculate
the thread demand, the more you can avoid keeping too
much stock on hand. In this way determining the exact
calculation of thread demand can directly influence a
decrease in costs.
An effective system to calculate this thread demand can
vary according to the:
product group
product design
process of product
batch size
the organisation within the company

and many other factors require different calculation

instruments and processes. In order to offer the suitable
solution for each and every garment manufacturer,
AMANN has developed various calculation aids in the
last few years in close cooperation with the garment
industry. This brochure offers an overview of the available
calculation methods and affords a detailed requirements
table for the most important stitch types a reference
guide for each thread calculation.
The basis of each thread demand calculation is the
determination of the stitch type and the sewing parameter.
With this result we can determine the thread demand by
multiplying the seam length with the given thread demand
value. It is a good idea to subdivide into needle, bobbin
and, when needed, cover thread categories, in order to
allow for the various layouts of the individual thread
systems in the disposition.

The illustrated results in the thread demand per stitch type

table were arrived at by finishing, undoing and measuring
sample seams under the above-mentioned AMANN
sewing technique conditions.

The influence of stitch density

The stitch density has a great influence on thread demand,

in particular in stitch types with cross-directional threads
(zigzag, blanket stitching, and cover stitching). An increase
of stitch density from 4 to 6 stitches/cm with the lockstitch
(stitch type 301) leads, for example, to an increased
thread demand of about 15%. With the 2 needle covering
chainstitch (stitch type 602) thread demand rises with the
same increase of stitch density to 35%. This must be taken
into consideration during calculation in order to make
sure to avoid having not enough stock on hand with the
resulting costly subsequent deliveries.
AMANN has researched the influence of stitch densities
on the most important stitch types. The results can be
requested at your convenience in AMANN Technical
Sewing Service.

The influence of stitch density on thread demand for

stitch type 301 and 401
Thread demand in m (per 1 m of seam)
7

Factors of influence on the thread demand

The thread demand is dependant on numerous factors.
The thread demand data in the overview tables in this
brochure (p. 4 8) are based on these parameters used
in practice:
Stitch depth :
Fabric weight :

4 stitches /cm

tch

0
e4

ub

le

ch

titc

h)

stitch

le
doub
301 (
e
p
y
t

locks

titch)

1,0 mm
(at two layers of fabric)

sti

typ

(do

s
ain

Seam width :

see table data

Seam length :

1 metre

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5
6
7
Stitch density (stitches / cm)

The influence of fabric weight

A change in fabric weight also has a great effect on the

thread demand where, besides a change in overall thread
demand, the ratio between needle and bobbin threads
could shift. With exception of the double lockstitch and
presuming an ideal distribution all stitch types whose
chains lie not within but outside the fabric, increase their
percentage of needle and bobbin threads with increasing
fabric weight. With the double chainstitch only the needle
thread demand increases with increasing fabric weight,
whereas the bobbin thread demand remains constant.

The influence of fabric weight on thread demand using

the stitch type 401 (double chainstitch) as an example
Thread demand in m (per 1 m of seam)
8
7
al
Tot

and
em
dd
a
e
hr
ic t
Bas

4
3

The thread tension will alter the thread demand value

according to setting. This can change the ratio between
needle, bobbin and, if applicable, cover thread. It can
also greatly influence the amount of the overall thread
demand. In practice, great fluctuations in the ratio between
the threads as well as in the overall thread demand have
been noticed especially in stitch types 500 and 600. This
may also be due to the fact that in practice an ideal
distribution of threads does not always prevail.
This is to be allowed for should the parameters thread
tension, stitch density, fabric weight or seam widths in the
calculation not match the data in this brochure. Missing
demand values for seams that have been developed
under other sewing parameters should be determined by
practical research methods, this means by undoing stitches
and measuring them.
The thread demand values in the tables are net values,
meaning that the thread demand relates exclusively to a
one meter long sewn seam. The thread demand for
starting and ending a seam, changing threads, embroidering, chain stitching, etc. has not been allowed for.

and
em
dd
a
e
thr

The influence of tension on stitches

Bobbin thread demand

In order to establish a sufficient thread demand calculation,

a thread allowance must be added to the net calculation
result. Through our experience this allowance to be added
must lie between 15 and 25 % of the end net calculation.
This allowance takes fluctuations resulting from the
respective degree of size and other influences of production
and methods into consideration.

4
5
6
Fabric weight (in millimetres)

Developing thread demand

All-inclusive calculation

Individual calculation

1. Using values arrived at in practice

as a basis

1. Without aid

2. Using a model catalogue as a guide,

for example the AMANN Sewing
Thread Inventory Planner

2. Using the module system of the

AMANN Sewing Thread Inventory
Planner
3. With software support
(AMANN NBE program)

AMANN sewing thread requirement tables

Stitch Type

Seam Construction
ISO 4915
DIN 61400

Top

Seam Appearance
Bottom

Seam
Width

Stitches

Thread
Required

mm

(per cm)

per 1m of seam

NF

Single-thread
chainstitch

101

NF:

3,80 m

100 %

NF:

4,50 m

100 %

NF:

4,50 m

100 %

NF:

1,40 m

100 %

NF

Single-thread
blindstitch

103

NF

Single-thread
blindstitch

Lockstitch
(Hand stitch
type)

105

NF

209

NF = Needle thread GF = Bobbin / looper thread LF = Cover thread

Service & Technology

Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

Stitch Type

Seam Construction
ISO 4915
DIN 61400

Top

Seam Appearance
Bottom

Seam
Width

Stitches

Thread
Required

mm

(per cm)

per 1m of seam

NF

Double
lockstitch

Double
lockstitch

301

NF:
GF:

GF

Double
chainstitch

Double
chainstitch
Zigzag

1,40 m
1,40 m

50 %
50 %

2,80 m

100 %

2,70 m
2,70 m

50 %
50 %

5,40 m

100 %

6,50 m
6,50 m

50 %
50 %

13,00 m

100 %

1,70 m
3,10 m

35 %
65 %

4,80 m

100 %

2,40 m
4,40 m

35 %
65 %

6,80 m

100 %

NF

304

GF

NF:
GF:

Zigzag

Double
lockstitch
Multi-stitch
Zigzag

NF

321

18

NF:
GF:

GF

NF

401

NF:
GF:

GF

NF

404
GF

NF = Needle thread GF = Bobbin / looper thread LF = Cover thread

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NF:
GF:

Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

Stitch Type

Two-needle
double chainstitch

Seam Construction
ISO 4915
DIN 61400

Top

Seam
Width

Stitches

Thread
Required

mm

(per cm)

per 1m of seam

NF

406

29 %
71 %

11,80 m

100 %

NF:
5,10 m
GF: 11,60 m

30 %
70 %

16,70 m

100 %

3,40 m
6,20 m
5,80 m

22 %
40 %
38 %

15,40 m

100 %

NF: 16,40 m

100 %

NF:
1,70 m
GF: 10,00 m

15 %
85 %

11,70 m

100 %

GF
NF
NF

NF

407

GF

with common looper

LF

Two-times
double
chainstitch

NF:
GF:

NF
NF

408

GF

with cover thread

3,40 m
8,40 m

NF

with common looper

Three-needle
double chainstitch

Seam Appearance
Bottom

GF

NF:
GF:
LF:

NF

Single-thread
overedge stitch

Two-thread
overedge stitch
Interlaced at

501

NF

502

GF

needle hole

NF = Needle thread GF = Bobbin / looper thread LF = Cover thread

Service & Technology

Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

Stitch Type

Two-thread
overedge
stitch

Seam Construction
ISO 4915
DIN 61400

Top

Seam
Width

Stitches

Thread
Required

mm

(per cm)

per 1m of seam

NF

503

NF:
GF:

NF

504

GF
GF

Interlaced at

6,70 m
5,00 m

57 %
43 %

11,70 m

100 %

NF: 1,70 m
GF: 12,10 m

12 %
88 %

13,80 m

100 %

6,30 m
7,50 m

46 %
54 %

13,80 m

100 %

NF: 3,40 m
GF: 12,90 m

21 %
79 %

16,30 m

100 %

NF: 3,40 m
GF: 13,70 m

20 %
80 %

17,10 m

100 %

GF

Interlaced on edge

Three-thread
overedge
stitch

Seam Appearance
Bottom

needle hole

Three-thread
overedge
stitch

NF

505

GF

Interlaced on edge

Four-thread
overedge
stitch (Mock safety

GF

NF
NF

512

GF
GF

stitch) Interlaced at

NF:
GF:

needle hole

Four-thread
overedge
stitch

NF
NF
GF
GF

514

Interlaced at
needle hole

NF = Needle thread GF = Bobbin / looper thread LF = Cover thread

Service & Technology

Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

Stitch Type

Two-needle
covering
chain-stitch

Seam Construction
ISO 4915
DIN 61400

Stitches

Thread
Required

mm

(per cm)

per 1m of seam

20 %
50 %
30 %

GF

16,90 m

100 %

NF
NF
NF

NF: 5,10 m
GF: 11,60 m
LF:
5,80 m

23 %
52 %
25 %

22,50 m

100 %

NF: 6,80 m
GF: 14,80 m
LF:
5,80 m

25 %
54 %
21 %

27,40 m

100 %

NF

602

LF

605

NF:
GF:
LF:

GF
LF
NF
NF
NF
NF

607

GF

Seam Appearance

Stitch Type
ISO 4915
DIN 61400

3,40 m
8,40 m
5,10 m

with cover thread

Seam
Operation

Seam
Width

NF

with cover thread

Four-needle
covering
chain-stitch

Seam Appearance
Bottom

LF

with cover thread

Three-needle
covering
chain-stitch

Top

NF

Type
mm

No. of
Stitches

Thread
Required

per unit

Circular tack
Single-thread
chainstitch

107

NF:

0,07 m

100 %

42

NF:
GF:

0,30 m
0,20 m

60 %
40 %

0,50 m

100 %

Zigzag

Bartack
Double lockstitch

304

12

Zigzag
NF = Needle thread GF = Bobbin / looper thread LF = Cover thread

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Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

Seam
Operation

ISO 4915
DIN 61400

Seam Appearance

Type
mm

No. of
Stitches

Thread
Required

per unit

Lingerie
buttonhole

Single-thread
chainstitch
Zigzag

Lingerie
buttonhole

Double lockstitch
Zigzag

Eyelet
buttonhole

without bartack
Double chainstitch
Zigzag

Sewing on
button Lingerie
Single-thread
chainstitch without
button shank

Sewing on
button
Outerwear

Single-thread
chainstitch with
button shank

Sewing on
button

Double lockstitch
Zigzag

107

16

304

18

404

30

107

107

304

NF = Needle thread GF = Bobbin / looper thread LF = Cover thread

Service & Technology

90

NF:

0,50 m

100 %

160

NF:
GF:

0,10 m
0,85 m

10 %
90 %

0,95 m

100 %

0,80 m
0,20 m

80 %
20 %

1,00 m

100 %

96

NF:
GF:

2-hole

NF:

0,20 m

100 %

4-hole

14

NF:

0,40 m

100 %

4-hole

21

NF:

0,60 m

100 %

NF:
GF:

0,10 m
0,05 m
0,15 m

65 %
35 %
100 %

NF:
GF:

0,20 m
0,10 m
0,30 m

65 %
35 %
100 %

2-hole

4-hole

12

Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

Empirical data for roughly calculating the amount of thread required

The table below is intended as a guide. The thread consumption figures it contains are based on fashionable and
qualitative characteristics of the individual garments listed. This means that standard thread amounts indicated are not
arithmetical mean values derived from the maximum and minimum values shown in the Range of Variations column.
They already include allowances for the beginning and end of seams as well as colour changes.

Mens and
Boys wear

Standard
Amount
(m)

Range of
Variation
(m)

Overlocking Seams
(m)

Business suit trousers/

corduroy jeans

300

250 350

170

130

Blue denim jeans

280

230 370

130

150

Sackcoat, blazer

190

170 240

45

145

Waistcoat

70

57 80

70

Winter coat

265

250 285

60

205

Poplin coat

265

250 285

40

225

Shorts

90

80 100

50

40

Smock

255

230 285

90

165

Work suit (two-piece)

375

345 400

185

190

Bib slacks

225

200 250

115

110

Anorak, blouson

210

170 250

40

170

Bathing/dressing gown

210

170 250

110

100

Tracksuit

200

170 250

120

80

Underwear
Lingerie

Distribution
Assembly and
Ornamental Seams (m)

Standard
Amount
(m)

Range of
Variation
(m)

Overlocking Seams
(m)

Mens dress shirt (long-sleeved)

125

115 150

80

45

Mens undershirt, T shirt

80

70 90

65

15

Ladies panties, Mens briefs

100

80 100

80

20

Panty girdle

100

80 120

80

20

Bra

55

40 80

20

35

Pyjama

200

170 200

120

80

Night gown

150

130 190

100

50

10

Service & Technology

Distribution
Assembly and
Ornamental Seams (m)

Standard
Amount
(m)

Range of
Variation
(m)

Overlocking Seams
(m)

Dress (unlined)

150

125 180

90

60

Dress (lined)

195

160 255

100

95

Skirt (unlined)

110

90 140

75

35

Skirt (lined)

170

150 200

125

45

Jacket

200

170 260

60

140

Costume (two-piece)

400

310 490

135

265

Slacks

200

180 240

150

50

Poplin coat

285

250 370

45

240

Winter coat

285

250 370

45

240

Smock

225

170 280

75

150

Blouse

120

100 150

55

65

Bathing suit

120

100 140

70

50

Pyjama suit

200

170 250

100

100

Ladies wear

Standard
Amount
(m)

Shoes

Distribution
Assembly and
Ornamental Seams (m)

Range of
Variation
(m)

Overlocking Seams
(m)

Distribution
Assembly and
Ornamental Seams (m)

Mens shoes (elegant)

21

17 28

21

Mens shoes (casual)

26

23 30

26

Mens boots

33

28 40

33

Ladies shoes (elegant)

26

23 30

26

Ladies shoes (casual)

26

23 30

26

Ladies boots

33

25 45

33

11

Determining thread demand with the Sewing Thread Inventory Planner

The Sewing Thread Inventory Planner is an especially
effective way to arrive at a calculation. For the most
important product groups in Mens and Boys wear and
Ladies wear the thread demand values can be quickly
and easily taken from a folder without much effort. The
Sewing Thread Inventory Planner is built on a basis of
illustrations of models and model elements and their
respective thread demand values. There are two
different ways to use this process for your calculation :

Determining the thread demand by

using the model illustrations
With the aid of

the illustration
the description of different customary processes
the illustration
detailed additional information

the respective model presented in a product group is

clearly described. When the model in the Sewing Thread
Inventory Planner matches the garment to be calculated
then the user can record the respective thread demand
at a glance and adopt the value into his calculation. This
is the simplest and fastest method to determine the thread
amount in a garment.

Determining the thread demand by

using the module method

Using the elemental models for all important product

groups and default modules as a guide, individual models
can be put together and calculated.
The elemental model contains the
seam positions that are required
for the finishing of the respective
garment piece. This means details
specific to the model like pockets
or seam finishes of trousers etc.,
are not calculated because these
could be designed in every possible
variation. In the elemental model
the customary process types used
in practice are given under the
heading Variations.
The variations that are the basis
of the calculation define the types
of seams and the stitch types used
for them and the finishing processes for the most important
seam positions.
In the category Modules functional and decorative
model elements are presented to be used by the garment
manufacturer to create a basis
model.
Belonging to this, amongst
others, is a multitude of
differentiating pocket solutions, quilting and collar
designs. By adding the
specified thread demand
values for the building blocks
and the respective basis model
the sum for the total model
can be calculated.
A Sewing Thread Inventory
Plan-ner solely for the Ladies
wear and Mens and Boys
wear is available. The following product groups can be
found in the folder:

According to product group, up to 5 different model

variations are presented, meaning a large diversity of
variations creating excellent preconditions for the calculation
process. For some models there are up to 3 customary
processes calculated that are used in practice also in
this regard the chances are great that his model may
be found in the Sewing Thread Inventory Planner.

Ladies wear
Blazers, blouses, trousers, jeans, polo shirts, skirts, T-shirts
Mens and Boys wear
Suit Jackets, vests, trousers, shirts, denim shirts, jeans,
polo shirts, T-shirts

read
g T hlanner
n
i
w
P
Se t ory
an d
en s
n
ish :
Inve ear / M r engl

es w
an o
Ladi r, germ
w ea

s
y
Bo
Euro

39,

12

Service & Technology

Determining thread demand with the NBE program

The NBE program is a professional software solution to
support the calculation of thread demand. The NBE
program can, considering all the important parameters
that influence thread demand, create one exact thread
demand calculation per sewing operation. You just have
to enter the required seam positions that are to be
calculated and the respective parameters. The calculation
and exact evaluation is taken care of by the NBE program.
The result is a detailed work plan and thread demand
overview giving the required consumption for the thread
article to be used and can be applied as a work basis
directly out of the disposition.

The NBE program was developed in close association

with the garment industry, therefore distinguishing itself
from other programs for its practice-oriented and userfriendly principle. The advantages of determining thread
demand by using a computer program shows in the
flexible usability of the great amount of data calculated
by entering the various models and modules. With the
NBE program a complicated and quick alteration of
models is made possible, as well as the simple putting
together of new models by adding modules and base
models. This type of calculation is particularly efficient
and precise at the same time.

To guarantee an optimal calculation, the NBE program

fulfils the following requirements:
Networking capability
Based on well-known software
(Microsoft Access 2000)
Designed for user-friendliness
Simple, clearly organized system
Visual presentation (models, stitch types)
International usability
(Language choice German and English)
Flexibility (product diversity, individual
users needs)

It is possible to integrate the NBE program into existing

PDM solutions. Examples are available. Individual
according to existing software in the company clarification
of the integration or linkage should be possible. The
AMANN Technical Sewing Service is happy to be of
assistance.
The NBE program is available in the German and English
language. The CD-ROM comes with a detailed manual.

ram
pro g ng lish :
E
B
N
or e
an
g erm
Eu ro

95,

13

More brochures
AMANN product range

Application recommendations for AMANN sewing threads and

ACKERMANN embroidery threads

Sewing of ultra-lightweight fabrics

Determining your sewing thread requirements

100011

100015

100023

Sewing on buttons securely

100029

AMANN sewing threads for shoes

and leather goods

100034

Sewing knitted fabrics

Guidelines for sewing of outerwear, underwear, lingerie, shirts,

blouses, swimwear and leisurewear

The sewability of elastic fabric

14

Service & Technology

100041

100541

An overview of AMANN thread products

An overview of ACKERMANN embroidery threads

Service
We can advise you in all your questions
about sewing and processing technology.
Just give us a call.

Telephone + 49 (7143) 277-250

15

DIN EN ISO 9001 : 2000

Zertifikat: 09 100 6148

Certificate No.: 01 104 000462

No. 93.0.4233

Amann & Shne GmbH & Co. KG

Hauptstrae 1
D-74357 Bnnigheim
Telephone +49 (7143) 277-250
Telefax
+49 (7143) 277-460
nt@amann.com
www.amann.com

100023
GB0PDF034

All facts and figures are intended exclusively for your information.
All recommendations presuppose adjustment of the sewing conditions to the appropriate sewing yarn.